A  COTTON  FABRICS 

GLOSSARY 


Notes  and  Queries 


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A  Cotton 
Fabrics  Glossary 


Second  Edition,  much  Enlarged  and 
Improved,  and  including  Analyses 
of  all  recent  additions  to  the  Cotton 
Fabrics  of  the  World.  Containing 
instructions  for  the  manufacture  of 
every  known  grade  and  variety  of 
Cotton    Fabrics.      PRICE    $5.00. 


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FRANK  P.  BENNETT  &  CO..  Inc. 

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COPRIGHTED  1914,   By 
FRANK  P.  BENNETT  &  CO.,  Inc. 


J\  Cotton  fabrics  6lo$$ary 


CONTAINING    INSTRUCTIONS    FOR    THE   MANUFAC- 
TURE OF  EVERY   KNOWN   GRADE  AND 
VARIETY  OF  COTTON  FABRICS. 


COTTON  VOILES 

Until  within  the  past  few  years, 
voile  fabrics  were  made  and  sold  in 
quite  large  quantities,  considering 
the  material  from  which  they  were 
made,  but  inasmuch  as  they  were 
composed  of  worsted  yarn,  they 
were  high  in  price  and  not  especially 
desirable  to  the  large  majority  of 
consumers.  Possibly  four  or  five 
years  ago,  voiles  began  to  be  made 
of  cotton  yarn,  and  while  they  are 
not  so  desirable  in  some  ways  as 
fabrics  composed  of  worsted  yarn, 
nevertheless  they  are  very  attractive, 
and  for  ordinary  users  show  a  much 
larger  value  than  when  made  from 
worsted. 

Gradually  the  style  for  such  fab- 
rics developed  and  for  the  past  two 
years  there  has  been  possibly  a 
greater  sale  for  them  than  there 
has  been  for  any  other  material  man- 
ufactured in  fancy  cotton  mills  or 
for  cotton  fabrics  which  come  under 
a  fancy  classification.  The  smooth- 
ness of  the  cotton  yarns  adds  a  great 
deal  to  the  general  cloth  effect  and 
has  without  doubt  created  a  field 
which  will  show  a  greater  or  less  de- 
mand continually. 

It  Is  not  likely  that  the  sale  will 
be  as  large  as  it  is  now  or  has  been 
recently,  but  these  fabrics  show  such 
a  large  amount  of  desirability  that 
they    cannot    be    dropped    from    the 


ordinary  range  of  fancy  fabrics  to  aa 
great  a  degree  as  some  others  have 
been  in  the  past.  Naturally,  the  va- 
riety of  fabrics  produced  from  cottOD 
yarns  shows  a  much 

WIDER  RANGE  OF  STYLE 
and  construction  than  they  did  from 
worsted,  because  cotton  mills  are  bet- 
ter equipped  to  make  a  variety  of 
combinations  in  yam  sizes,  and  also 
through  the  addition  of  other  materi- 
als, such  as  silk,  artificial  silk  and 
other  fibres,  to  give  certain  effects. 

When  voile  fabrics  were  first  made 
in  cotton,  the  large  majority  of  them 
were  produced  from  two-ply  yam, 
and,  naturally,  much  of  this  yarn  was 
made  from  combed  stock,  because 
one  of  the  main  features  of  the  fab- 
ric is  to  have  as  clear  an  effect  as 
possible,  or  one  in  which  there  are 
as  few  fibres  projecting  from  the  yarn 
as  possible.  The  twisting  oper- 
ation aids  perceptibly  in  making  yaim 
smooth,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  used 
extensively.  To  give  crispness  and 
also  to  aid  in  making  the  yarn  round, 
it  is  given  a  much  greater  amount  of 
twist  than  ordinary  two-ply  yarn,  and 
regarding  this  situation,  we  will 
give  a  more  extensive  description 
later.  There  are  also  a  good 
many  voile  fabrics  which  have  been 
produced  from  single  yarns,  but,  of 
course,  they  are  not  as  serviceable 
nor  as  desirable  as  the  two-ply  fabric, 
although  they  do  offer  opportunities 
in  purchasing  at  a  reduction  In  price 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


As  a  general  statement,  it  can  b3 
said  that  voile  fabrics  have  a  very 
low  count  in  comparison  with  most 
other  fabrics.  This  is  done  in  order 
that  it  may  aid  in  giving  the  open 
effect  which  is  so  desirable  in  the  fab- 
ric, for  it  must  be  remembered  that 
when  a  voile  fabric  is  used  for  a 
dress  or  for  most  other  uses,  it  is 
necessary  to  wear  underneath  an 
other  dress  or  fabric  to  make  the 
garment  opaque  and  aid  in  creating  a 


is  probable  that  the  low  constnictiong 
are  much  more  frequent  than  the  high 
constructions,  because  buyers  ara 
likely  to  cut  the  costs  everywhere 
possible  whenever  an  opportunity  Is 
presented.  Because  there  has  been  a 
low  count  used  in  these  cloths,  in 
the  large  majority  of  instances,  the 
body  of  the  fabric  at  least  is  com- 
posed of  plain  weave.  Unless  this 
is  done  a  higher  count  is  necessary 
for  any  size  of  yarn,  and   when  the 


SjnsKt!SJ^;3K; 


's^siiii::i:ssti. 


A  Coarse  Blue  Voile  of  45-1   Yarn. 


desirable  effect,  for  combinations  in 
colors  between  over-dress  and  under- 
dress  are  often  used. 

One  of  the  great  problems  in  the 
making  of  any  voile  cloth  is  to  have 
the  construction  of  the  cloth  jus* 
right,  that  is,  so  that  the  threads  will 
not  slip  badly  and  still  not  be  so  close 
as  to  detract  especially  from  the  open- 
work effect.  Voiles  have  often  been 
sold  in  which  the  construction  was 
too  high,  and  which  might  have  been 
lowered  with  a  distinct  saving  in  cost 
and  a  resulting  better  effect,  and  it 
is  also  true  that  voiles  have  been  sold 
in  which  the  construction  was  too 
low,  for  the  threads  slip  badly  and 
often  create  a  wavy  appearance.     It 


cloth  count  is  increased  the  voile  ef- 
fect   is    lost. 

Some  variation  in  count  will  be  not- 
ed through  the  use  of  different  staple 
lengths  of  cotton;  that  is,  when  a 
long  cotton  is  used  a  smooth  yam  is 
likely  to  be  produced  and  the  smooth- 
er a  yarn  is,  the  more  it  is  likely  to 
slip  when  woven.  It  is  also  true  that 
it  is  not  necessary  to  use  as  much 
twist  when  a  long  cotton  is  used  as 
when  a  short  one  is  being  spun. 
Through  the  low  construction,  or 
small  number  of  picks  per  inch,  the 
production  in  yards  on  voile  fabrics 
is  much  greater  than  it  has  been  on 
the  majority  of  fabrics  which  fancy 
mills  are  accustomed  to  produce,  even 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


though  the  percentage  of  production 
has  not  been  as  high  as  it  has  been 
on  other  fabrics. 

Each  mill  is  likely  to  use  a  some- 
what different  amount  of  twist  in  its 
yarns,  due  to  somewhat  different  man- 
ufacturing conditions  under  which 
each  operates,  but  as  a  general  thing, 
it  can  be  said  that  the  cotton  which  is 
used  in  any  kind  of  voile  yarn  is  that 
which  is  ordinarily  used  in  the  yarn  of 
the  same  size  which  would  be  used  in 
a  fancy  fabric.  In  combed  yarn  fabrics, 
it  is  seldom  that  cotton  shorter  than 
this,  1%  inches,  is  used,  be- 
cause cotton  shorter  than  this 
is  seldom  combed.  It  is  a 
general  mill  policy  to  use  just 
as  short  staple  for  any  size  of  yarn 
as  can  be  handled  successfully,  and 
it  is  not  a  good  policy  to  use  cotton 
which  costs  an  extra  cent  or  two 
when  the  advantage  gained  only 
amounts  To  a  small  portion  of  a  cent. 

Inasmuch  as  the  making  of  voile 
fabrics  depends  so  much  on  the  yarns 
used,  it  may  be  well  to  give  some  in- 
formation regarding  their  construc- 
tion and  making.  These  ply  yams  are 
both  made  from  grey  single  yams 
and  also  from  dyed  and  bleached  sin- 
gle yarns,  but  by  far  the  largest  ma- 
jority are  made  in  the  grey  statG. 
Inasmuch  as  they  are  two-ply  or  more 
than  two-ply,  it  is  readily  recognized 
that  a  twisting  operation  is  necessarj- 
before  they  are  completed.  Of  course, 
when  the  yarns  are  made  in  the  dyed 
or  oleached  state  before  weaving.  It 
makes  little  difference  regarding  the 
cost,  because  practically  the  same 
number  of  processes  have  to  be  used, 
no  matter  what  method  is  pursued 
but  this  is  not  true  when  grey  yam«' 
are  being  considered. 

In  the  first  place,  in  making  grey 
ply  yams,  if  they  be  taken  and 
placed  on  the  twister  and  twisted, 
they  must  also  be  handled  by  other 
succeeding  processes,  that  Is,  the 
warp  be  spooled,  warped  and  slashed 
just  the  same  as  any  other  warp 
yarn.     The   slashing  operation 

SETS   THE   TWIST 
on  the  warp,  so  that  It  does  not  curl 
up  and  create  any  great  trouble,  but 


the  filling  cannot  be  quilled  after 
twisting,  but  must  be  made  up  into  a 
long  chain  warp  and  then  sized  and 
quilled  before  it  can  be  woven.  Un 
less  this  is  done,  the  hard  twist  in 
the  yarn  is  likely  to  make  loops  which 
appear  in  the  cloth  and  make  sec- 
onds. It  has  been  found  that  so  far 
as  twisting  the  filling  is  concerned,  it 
is  much  better  to  twist  the  two-ply 
on  a  spinning  frame.  This  can  be 
done  by  using  filling  bobbins  which 
have  been  enamelled  so  as  to  stanch 
a  steaming  process.  When  the  filling 
yarn  has  been  twisted  or  spun  onto 
these  bobbins,  it  can  be  taken  direct- 
ly from  the  spinning  frame  to  a 
steaming,  chest,  which  sets  the  twist 
and  makes  the  yarn  in  a  condition 
ready  for  weaving. 

As  will  be  readily  seen,  this  methoc' 
of  making  hard  twast  two-ply  grey 
filling  yarn  is  more  desirable  than 
when  twisted  on  a  twisting  frame, 
because  it  eliminates  a  number  of 
processes  and  results  in  a  cheaper 
yarn  cost.  This  operation  cannot  al- 
ways be  accomplished  on  a  spinning 
frame,  because  they  are  sometimes 
not  available,  but  it  is  a  distinct  ad- 
vantage when  it  can  be  accomplished- 
When  single  yarns  are  being  used  in 
making  a  voile  cloth,  it  is  custom- 
ary to  use  in  some  cases  an  ordinary 
warp  yarn  and  in  others  a  warp 
yarn  in  which  there  is  only  a  slight 
excess  of  twist,  while  the  filling  yarn 
contains  the  extra  hard  twist.  In 
making  single  yarn  voiles  it  Is  nec- 
essary to  use 

ENAMELLED    BOBBINS 

for  the  filling,  so  that  it  can  be  steam- 
ed as  above  described  on  the  two-ply 
yarn.  For  ordinary  warp  yarn  the 
standard  of  twist  is  from  4i  to  4^ 
times  the  square  root  of  the  yarn 
size,  whereas  in  hard  twist  yarn,  such 
as  is  used  in  voiles,  the  standard  of 
twist  is  likely  to  be  from  7  to  8J  times 
the  square  root  of  the  yarn  size.  This 
holds  true  for  both  warp  and  filling 
and  for  both  single  and  two-ply  yam, 
with  the  single  exception  of  warp 
yarn  used  in  single  yam  voiles.  In 
making  the  single  yarn,  which  is  uae'l 


8 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


before  twisting,  the  standards  of 
twist  are  almost  always  exactly  tho 
same  as  if  ordinary  warp  yarn  were 
being  produced;  that  is,  ordinary 
warp  yarn  can  be  taken  and  liari 
twisted,  and  then  it  is  suitable  foi 
use  in   voiles. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  ihat  the  pro 
duction  of  a  voile  yarn  Is  likely  to 
be  only  about  half  that  noted  on  a  2 
ordinary  yarn,  and  for  this  reason 
the  cost  of  production  is  likely  to  bK 
about  twice  as  much  as  it  is  on  an  or- 
dinary single  or  two-ply  yarn  of  the 
same  size.  The  twist  in  the  two-plj 
yarn  voiles  for  both  warp  and  filling 
is  practically  always  identical  if  the 
same  size  of  yarn  be  used  for  warp  and 
filling. 

ANALYSIS  NO.  1. 

Width  of  the  warp  In  reed 28%  inche^ 

Width   of  the  fabric  grey 27       Inches 

Width  of  the  fabric   finished 26       inches 

Ends  per  inch  in  the  reed 34 

Ends  per  inch  finished 38 

Reed   (1  end  per  dent) 34 

2  2 

Ends    In    the    warp    —  966  —  =   1,014    total 
12  12 

ends. 
Warp    yarn    size    45/2. 
Warp  take-up   6%. 
Warp   weight   .0583. 
Filling    size    45/2. 
Picks  per   inch   34. 
Filling  weight  .0528. 
Total   weight  per  yard  .1111. 
Yards  per  pound    (grey)    9. 

The  above  fabric  is  the  one  ordi- 
narily known  as  38x34,  and  has  been 
sold  in  quite  large  quantities  not  only 
in  the  plain  material  but  also  in  vari- 
ous dobby  and  striped  patterns.  The 
ply  yarn  in  this  fabric  is  made  of  45-1 
single  yarn,  and  in  the  twisting  opera- 
tion there  is  a  certain  amount  of  con- 
traction, and  instead  of  this  yarn  con- 
taining 18,900  yards  per  pound,  we 
have  used  as  a  basis  18,500  yards,  a 
figure  which  allows  for  shrinkage  in 
possibly  an  average  number  of  in- 
stances. With  a  very  high  standard 
of  twist,  the  yarn  will  shrink  more, 
while  if  the  standard  is  lower  ther^ 
will  be  less  contraction.  Two-ply 
hard  twisted  yarns  are  usually  made 
from  single  yarns  of  a  certain  size, 
and  the  two-ply  result  is  likely  to  be 
coarser  in  size  than  the  single  yarns 
used  would  indicate.  When  single 
'lard  twisted  yams  are  being  made,  It 


is  customary  to  change  the  gears  bo 
that  the  yarn  spun  is  a  certain  size. 

ANALYSIS  NO.   2. 

Width  of  the  warp  in  the  reed 29  inches 

Width  of  the  fabric  in  the  grey.... 27  Inches 

Width  of   the  fabric   finished 26  inches 

Knds  per  inch  in  the  reed 46 

Ends   per    inch    finished 49 

Reed   (1  end  per  dent) 46 

Ends   in   the   warp   24   1,310  24   =   1,358    total 

ends. 
Warp    yarn    size    60/2. 
Warp    take-up    7%. 
Warp    weight    .0628. 
Filling    size    60/2. 
Picks   per   inch   46. 
Filling    weight    .0574. 
Total   weight  per  yard  .1202. 
Yards  per  pound   (grey)   8.32. 

This  above  cloth  is  another  one 
which  is  manufactured  extensively, 
and  is  known  as  49x46  with  60-2  hard 
twist  warp  and  nlling.  The  twisted 
yarn  is  made  from  60-1  warp  yarn  and 
due  to  contraction  in  twist,  it  con- 
tains only  23,250  yards  per  pound,  in- 
stead of  25,200.  There  is  also  a  sin- 
gle yarn  voile,  which  is  made  from 
carded  and  also  from  combed  yarn 
with  counts  about  50x48,  and  con- 
tains yarns  in  the  vicinity  of  30-1, 
the  cloth  being  somewhat  similar  in 
weight  to  the  one  given  in  analysis 
No.  2,  except  that  there  is  a  differ- 
ence in  appearance  and  cost  which 
would  be  noted  between  a  single  and 
two-ply  fabric.  Then  there  are  many 
fabrics  made  of  fine  two-ply  yarns, 
and  a  large  portion  of  the  imported 
voiles  are  made  from  yarns  up  to 
and  even  higher  than  120-2. 

The  count  on  such  fabrics  is  sel- 
dom higher  than  64x64,  thr.t  is,  un- 
less the  yarn  is  of  extremely  fine 
size.  In  order  to  increase  the  smooth' 
ness  of  the  ply  yarn  it  is  often  cus- 
tomary to  use  a  gassing  process  after 
the  yarn  is  twisted,  which  burns  off 
the  fibres  of  cotton  projecting 
and  which,  although  adding  to  the 
expense  of  production,  is  sometimes 
the  means  of  returning  a  higher 
profit  to  the  manufacturer  because  of 
added    attractiveness. 

WEAVING. 

Practically  all  of  the  voile  fabrics 
which  have  been  sold  have  been  wov- 
en on  ordinary  or  fancy  looms,  even 
though  some  of  them  have  been  en- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tirely  of  plain  weave.  This  has  been 
because  mispicks  and  breakages 
cause  seconds  to  be  made  much 
quicker  than  would  be  noted  on  a 
cheaper  class  of  fabrics  and  also  be- 
cause the  fancy  mills  which  are  able 
to  produce  the  right  kind  of  yarns 
have  not  had  automatic  looms  to  use 
even  had  they  so  desired.  "Without 
doubt,  the  use  of  stripes  made 
in  various  methods  out  of  cotton  or 
silk  has  added  much  to  the  attrac- 
tiveness of  voile  fabrics  and  has  been 
responsible  for  a  portion  of  the  large 
sale. 

When  silk  stripes  have  been  used, 
fancy  weaves  have  been  employed  on 
the  stripes  in  many  instances,  and 
this  is  very  desirable.  The  additiop 
of  a  comparatively  small  amount  of 
silk  yarn  is  usually  warranted  through 
the  higher  selling  price  obtained  an1 
the  higher  rate  of  profit  which  a  mill 
can  obtain  through  this  method  ot 
manufacturing.  Generally,  the  weav- 
ing process  causes  very  little  diffi- 
culty, for  the  yai'ns  are  strong,  even 
though  they  are  hard  twisted,  and, 
due  to  the  low  cloth  count,  there  are 
only  a  comparatively  few  warp 
threads  to  be  looked  after  by  a  weav- 
er, that  is,  unless  there  are  crowderl 
silk  or  cotton  stripes. 

Probably,  the  large  use  of  voiles 
has  been  the  means  of  introducing  to 
consumers  in  a  large  way  the  use  of 
artificial  silk.  On  fine  fabrics,  which 
are  woven  with  a  fine  reed,  there 
is  a  good  deal  of  friction,  which 
causes  artificial  silk  warp  threads  to 
rub  and  fray  out  and  be  rather  un- 
satisfactory in  weaving,  which  fact 
has  curtailed  their  use  to  a  certain 
extent  in  the  past,  but  the  coarse 
count  of  voile  fabrics  and  the  com 
paratively  small  amount  of  rubbing 
in  weaving  has  made  the  use  of  this 
silk  entirely  satisfactory  and  much 
more  of  it  is  being  noted,  especially 
in  the  imported  lines.  Consumer-^ 
have  found  that  the  use  of  this  silk 
is  not  undesirable,  and  that  there  has 
been  a  change  of  sentiment,  as  shown 
by  the  fact  that  retailers  to-day 
designate  that  such  material  has  been 
used  in  making  the  cloth  when  they 


are  showing  the  goods,  while  even 
one  year  ago  it  was  very  hard  to  find 
a  case  where  such  use  was  brought 
to  a  consumer's  attention,  althougb 
the  material  was  used  quite  exten 
sively  at  that  time. 

FINISHING. 

For  the  fabric  which  is  woven  from 
dyed  and  bleached  yarns  there  is  no 
great  necessity  for  any  extra  finish- 
ing processes  after  the  cloth  comes 
from  the  loom,  and  when  it  has  teen 
examined,  washed,  ironed  and  folded, 
it  is  ready  for  sale;  in  other  words. 
the  treatment  of  such  cloth  is  very 
similar  to  other  dyed  yarn  fabrics. 
The  cloth  which  is  woven  from  grey 
yarn  is  treated  in  an  entirely  differ- 
ent manner,  and  the  results  obtained 
may  be  of  widely  different  character, 
even  though  the  same  grey  cloth  is 
used   as  a  basis. 

In  the  first  place,  the  grey  fabric 
is  bleached,  and  this  process  is  likely 
to  vary,  depending  upon  the  materials 
which  have  been  used  in  the  cloth 
For  an  ordinary  all  cotton  voile,  the 
ordinary  bleaching  process  may  be 
used,  but  when  silk  is  used  in  combi- 
nation for  stripes  or  checks,  it  must 
be  bleached  by  a  method  which  will 
not  harm  either  material,  and  possi- 
bly sodium  peroxide  is  more  exten- 
sively used  than  any  other  material 
"-  bleaching  such  combination  fab 
rics.  After  the  voile  fabric  is  bleach 
ed,  it  may  be  dyed  a  solid  color  or 
left  white  if  the  cloth  is  plain  weave, 
or  it  may  be  printed  in  allover  pat- 
terns or  with  various  styles  of  bor- 
ders, such  as  are  being  used  and 
which  have  been  popular  since  voiles 
have  been   selling   well. 

Then  it  is  also  true  that  many  of 
the  finer  and  more  expensive  fabrics 
are  treated  to  a  mercerization  proc- 
ess, as  this  seems  to  make  the 
threads  rounder  and  the  voile 
effect  better.  The  process  acts, 
so  far  as  results  are  concerned, 
much  the  same  as  if  the  ply 
yarn  composing  the  fabrics  had 
been  treated  to  a  gassins  operation 
before  being  woven.  Such  a  process 
is  even  being  applied  to  many  of  th^ 
ordinary  voiles,   especially   since   the 


10 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


large  use  of  mercerization  has  mads 
the  cost  of  doing  it  much  less,  and 
which  does  not  make  the  fabric  pro- 
hibitive in  price.  On  fancy  fabrics 
which  contain  silk  there  are  other 
results  besides  the  foregoing  possible, 
for,  besides  being  mercerized  and  sold 
in  the  white  state  or  dyed  solid  col- 
ors or  printed,  the  cloths  can  be  dyed 
with  certain  colors,  which  is  call- 
ed cross  dyeing,  so  that  the  silk  yarn 
appears  as  one  color,  while  the  cotton 
is  another,  and  it  is  also  noted  that 
many  of  the  fabrics  have  the  silk 
yarn  with  the  cotton  yarn  in  the 
color  desired. 

On  the  cheap  voiles  which  are  only 
printed,  the  cost  of  finishing  may  be 
as  low  as  1%  cents  a  yard,  or  if  sold 
in  the  white  state  even  less  than  this 
amount,  while  on  the  high-priced  fab- 
rics the  cost  may  be  much  higher, 
and  it  is  prooable  that  most  of  tht 
better  fabrics  being  offered  by  the  re- 
tailers cost  from  3  cents  to  3^  cents 
Lo  finish,  that  is,  it  costs  the  conver- 
ter who  handles  the  goods  this 
amount  to  have  it  done. 

CARDING    AND    SPINNING. 

The  yarns  which  are  used  in  the 
making  of  voiles  are  varied,  but  in 
general  the  foundation  yarns  are 
much  the  same  as  those  which  would 
be  used  for  the  same  kinds  of  cloth 
in  a  fancy  cotton  mill.  For  fine  yarn 
longer  cotton  is  used  than  for  coarse 
yarn,  but  for  the  45-2  yarn  in  the 
fabric,  for  which  an  analysis  is  given, 
the  cotton  staple  length  would  be 
about  1  3-16  inches,  while  for  the 
60-2  fabric  the  cotton  length  would  be 
about  1^  inches,  and  if  100-2  were  to 
be  used,  the  cotton  length  would  be 
about   iy2    inches. 

In  combing  cotton  for  medium  or 
coarse  yarn  sizes,  the  percentage  of 
waste  removed  is  less  than  wher. 
fine  yarns  are  to  be  made,  the  amount 
of  waste  removed  depending  upon 
circumstances.  There  should  be  a 
good  mixing  of  cotton  before  it  ia 
run  through  the  pickers,  as  this  is 
one  of  the  features  which  results  in 
even  yarn  which  is  so  necessary  in 
the  production  of  voiles,  while  the 
weights  of  sliver  will  depend  a  good 


deal  on  the  mill  organization  and  also 
on  the  kind  and  size  of  comber  being 
employed.  The  spacing  of  the  rolls 
on  the  various  machines  should  be 
wide  enough,  so  that  in  no  case  will 
the  cotton  fibres  be  broken,  and  the 
amount  will  vary  on  the  different 
machines  from  one-eighth  inch  to 
one-quarter  inch  more  than  the  cot- 
ton staple  length.  Assuming  that  a 
finished  drawing  sliver  is  being  pro- 
duced of  a  weight  of  40  grains  and 
that  three  processes  of  fly  frames  are 
to  be  used,  a  lay-out  for  one  yard  of 
45-1  yarn  would  be  about  as  follows: 

.1852   grain. 

.98   2%    contraction   In   spinning. 


.1815 

10.58  spinning    draft. 


1.92   -4-   2  ends  =   96   =   8.67  hank  roving. 
6.4   fine    frame    draft. 


6.16   -H   2  ends  =  3.08   =  2.70  hank  roving. 
5.65   Intermediate  frame  draft. 


17.4   -i-    2   ends   =    8.70    =    .96   hank   roving. 
4.6   slubber  frame  draft. 


40.00  grains  finisher  drawing  weight. 

If  four  processes  of  fly  frames  are 
to  be  used  in  producing  45-1  yarn,  it 
probably  would  be  better  to  use  a 
heavier  finished  drawing  sliver,  and 
through  the  greater  opportunity  for 
drawing,  due  to  the  extra  process,  the 
right  size  of  yarn  can  be  obtained.  It 
is  a  very  good  policy  not  to  have 
the  spinning  draft  much  over  10^, 
although  there  are  mills  where  this 
is  exceeded  somewhat.  Conservative 
drafts  and  speeds  will  usually  be  of 
ultimate  advantage  in  manufacture, 
for  it  not  only  is  likely  to  result  in 
a  greater  yarn  production,  but  it  Is 
likely  to  make  fewer  seconds  in  the 
cloth  room,  a  higher  percentage  of 
production  on  the  loom,  with  a  corre- 
sponding lower  cost,  and  also  a  better 
fabric,  which  will  command  a  higher 
price  because  of  the  better  yarn  com- 
posing it.  What  would  be  a  good  lay- 
out for  one  mill  would  not  be  so  good 
for  another,  but  this  statement  does 
not  mean  that  there  rre  mills  which 
could  not  improve  their  yarn  layout, 
rither  by  changing  the  drafts  or 
changing  the  speeds  or  even  add- 
ing    a     few     machines     so    as     to 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


11 


give  a  greater  amount  of  flexi- 
bility to  the  organization.  There 
is  such  a  wide  range  of  up-to- 
dateness  in  the  machinery  in  the  va- 
rious mills  that  one  mill  can  operate 
to  advantage  with  cotton  of  1%  inches 
in  length,  while  another  for  the  same 
size  of  yarn  may  have  to  use  114-inch 
stock.  The  problem  is  an  individual 
one,  which  cannot  be  decided  quickly, 
and  to  give  a  layout  which  would  be 
entirely  suitable  or  even  desirable 
for  general  mills  conditions  is  not  an 
especially  good  policy. 

DYEING  INSTRUCTIONS. 
The  following  dyeing  instructions 
may  be  used  for  the  dyeing  of  this 
kind  of  material.  In  a  general  way, 
the  goods  will  be  worked  in  the  dye 
liquor  for  approximately  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour  at  the  boiling  point. 
The  amounts  of  color  are  based  on 
the  supposition  that  100  pounds  of 
material  is  to  be  dyed,  and  for  this 
amount  of  material,  there  will  be  re- 
quired somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of 
180  gallons  of  liquor.  The  amounts 
of  dyestuffs  and  other  materials  are 
those  necessary  for  the  first  batch  of 
material: 

BLUE. 
%%    Oxamlne   Blue.    3   B.   N. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

PINK. 
1-25%  Cotton  Red  4  B.  X. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

RED. 
2%%    Thiazine    Red    R. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

BROWN. 
2%%    Cotton   Brown   G. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

ORANGE. 
2%%   Pyramlne  Orange  R.  R. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

SLATE. 
1-10  of  1%   Oxamlne  Black,   R.   N. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

TELLOW.  . 

1%   Stllbene  Yellow,    2   G.   P.   extra  Cone. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 


MERCERIZED  WAISTINGS 

There  has  developed  during  com- 
paratively recent  years,  or  since  the 
mercerization  process   has   been  per- 


mitted to  be  used,  a  class  of  fabrics 
of  wide  variety,  but  which  have  quite 
a  number  of  prominent  features  in 
common.  This  class  of  fabrics  con- 
tains those  which  are  mercerized  in 
the  piece  in  the  filling  direction,  and 
these  materials  are  used  extensively 
for  women's  waistings  and  dresses, 
for  men's  shirtings  and  for  various 
other  purposes  which  creates  for 
them  a  large  field  for  sale.  These 
cloths  are  produced  in  plain  weave 
and  also  with  dobby  and  jacquard  fig- 
ures, and  the  results  obtained  appear 
to  many  consumers  to  be  comparable 
to  some  silk  fabrics,  in  fact  they  are 
quite  often  sold  as  such,  for  the  lus- 
tre obtained  through  such  methods  is 
permanent. 

Since  the  introduction  of  fast  col- 
ors which  are  able  to  stand  the 
bleaching  process  there  has  been  a 
greater  opportunity  for  variety  than 
there  was  earlier,  and  it  is  probable 
that  the  sale  of  such  fabrics  has  hurt 
the  sale  of  the  older  style  madras 
shirtings  to  quite  an  appreciable  ex- 
tent, for  shirt  makers  can  thus  pur- 
chase their  cloth  and  convert  it 
themselves,  thereby  saving  quite 
large  amounts  on  certain  lines. 
There  has  been  some  criticism  re- 
garding the  wear  of  many  of  these 
new  fabrics,  it  being  claimed  that 
they  do  not  wear  as  well  as  the  old- 
er lines  and  that  mercerization  hurts 
the  cloth  quality,  but   this 

IS   NOT   TRUE. 

The  trouble  has  been  when  com- 
paring the  mercerized  fabric  that  it 
has  not  been  so  heavy  in  weight  or 
produced  of  such  coarse  yarns  as  the 
earlier  shirting  fabrics,  and,  natural- 
ly, would  not  stand  as  much  hard 
wear.  Of  course,  the  soft  twist  ap- 
plied to  the  filling  yarn  does  render 
the  mercerized  fabric  a  little  bit  less 
durable,  but  not  enough  to  allow  any 
large  criticism,  especially  when  sim- 
ilar weights  of  fabrics  are  consid- 
ered. 

The  newer  fabrics  are  sold  largely 
because  of  their  improved  appear- 
ance, and  because  they  offer  oppor- 
tunities for  the  use  of  fancy  weaves 
which  the  others  do  not,  and  be- 
cause they  can  be  sold  at  a  reason- 


12 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


able  price  which  never  could  be  not- 
ed on  the  older  style  of  goods.  Not 
only  does  such  a  fabric  offer  the 
above  opportunity,  so  far  as  the 
weave  is  concerned,  but  it  also  al- 
lows yarns  of  fine  sizes  to  be  han- 
dled at  a  comparatively  low  cost, 
yarns  which  were  very  seldom  han- 
dled at  all  in  the  earlier  fabrics  for 
the  same  purposes,  and  besides,  when 
they  were  handled,  it  was  at  prohib- 
itive prices,  so  far  as  any  large  sale 


certain    amount     of     competition     to 
such   lines. 

One  fact  worth  noting  is  that  re- 
tailers in  general  have  not  as  yet 
shown  the  variety  or  the  adaptability 
of  such  material,  for  comparatively 
few  lines  have  been  purchasable  by 
them  up  to  the  present  time,  and  the 
fabrics  which  they  have  obtained  in 
many  cases  have  been  styles  of  which 
cutters-up  bought  too  heavily  and  dis- 
posed  of    at   second   hand.     For   this 


Three    Mercerized    Waist    or   Siiirting    Fabrics. 


of  the  cloth  was  concerned.  Thus  it 
will  be  seen  that  competition  has  de- 
veloped quite  extensively  between 
madras  and  mercerized  shirtings,  but 
only  because  the  sale  of  the  latter 
eliminates  some  of  the  opportuni- 
ties for  the  sale  of  the  former,  and 
not  because  the  fabrics  as  sold  are 
very  similar  in  appearance,  because 
they  usually  are  not.  It  is  quite  true 
that  mercerized  waistings  and  simi- 
lar fabrics  have  often  been  purchased 
in  place  of  silk  material,  and  for  this 
reason,  they  may  be  said  to  offer  a 


reason,  the  future  possibilities  of 
such  cloths  have  not  been  tried  out 
extensively.  Last  year  saw  a  large 
increase  in  the  use  of  such  cloths 
anti  the  coming  year  will  witness  a 
still  greater  one.  But  that  buyers 
have  recognized  the  situation  is  seen 
from  the  large  purchases  which  have 
been  made  recently  from  mills  which 
are  able  to  produce  these  construc- 
tions in  fancy  weaves. 

In  a  general  way,  madras  shirtings 
are  made  from  bleached  yarn,  and 
many  of  them  have  a  somewhat  high- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


IS 


er  warp  count  than  they  do  filling 
count,  while  the  warp  yarn  is  also 
coarser  in  size  than  the  filling,  al- 
though this  variation  is  usually  com- 
paratively slight,  while  mercerized 
fabrics  are  usually  made  from  grey 
yarns.  They  also  have  a  higher,  or 
a  radically  higher,  count  in  the  filling 
than  they  do  in  the  warp,  and  the 
filling  is  usually  a  heavier  size  of 
yarn  than  the  warp,  in  many  in- 
stances being  about  half  as  fine.  This 
variation  in  cloth  construction  gives 
a  much  different  cloth  when  produc- 
ed and  one  which  is  radically  differ- 
ent when  finished.  Besides,  the  fill- 
ings in  madras  shirtings,  which  are 
made  from  bleached  yarns,  are  com- 
paratively as  hard  twisted  as  the 
warp,  so  that  they  can  be  handled 
successfully,  w^hile  for  the  fabric 
which  is  to  be  mercerized,  the  filling 
has  a  much  lower  standard  of  twist, 
this  standard  being  often  less  than 
three  times  the  square  root  of  the 
yarn   size. 

Another  feature  worth  noting  is  that 
a  large  number  of  the  mercerized 
fabrics  are  made  from  combed  yarns, 
while  the  earlier  fabrics  were  and  are 
made  largely  from  carded  stock, 
which  gives  a  cloth  that  not  only  is 
not  likely  to  be  so  strong  but  will 
not  be  comparable  in  appearance.  Not 
only  does  the  better  yarn  used  tend 
to  make  a  more  even  fabric,  but  the 
mercerized  cloths,  due  to  the  various 
processes  of  finishing,  lose  entirely 
the  reed  marks  which  often  make 
bleached  and  dyed  yarn  fabrics  very 
objectionable,  but  which  cannot  be 
eliminated,  excepting  at  a  cost  which 
is  not  desirable.     Certain 

MERCERIZED  FABRICS 

are  made  with  carded  warp  and 
combed  filling,  while  there  are  some 
which  are  made  wholly  from  carded 
stock,  but  the  majority  of  such  fab- 
rics, especially  those  made  from  me- 
dium and  fine  yarns,  are  manufactur- 
ed from  combed  material.  One  con- 
struction which  is  used  extensively, 
and  which  forms  the  basis  for  many 
weaves  and  stripes,  is  64  by  72,  with 
50s-l  warp  and  30s-l  soft  twist  filling. 
The  fabric  which  we  have  analyzed 
is    about     this     construction     in     the 


ground,  although  a  warp  of  55s-l  has 
been   used   instead   of   50s-l. 

Another  finer  construction  which  is 
used  in  many  of  the  higher  grade  fab- 
rics is  72  by  96,  with  70s-l  or  finer 
warp  and  40s-l  soft  twist  filling. 
These  two  constructions  give  a  good 
general  idea  regarding  the  yarns  used 
and  the  sizes  which  render  the  best 
results  and  also  gives  a  general  idea 
regarding  the  constructions  employ- 
ed. The  soft  twist  filling  is  used,  be- 
cause better  results  can  be  obtained 
when  the  cloth  is  mercerized.  Soft 
twist  in  the  yarn  allows  the  various 
cotton  fibres  to  lie  more  nearly  par- 
allel in  the  yarn,  thus  reflecting  the 
light  and  giving  more  lustre.  In  a 
good  many  fabrics  Egyptian  cotton  is 
used  for  the  filling,  because  this  ma- 
terial has  been  found  to  give  better 
results  than  other  kinds  of  cotton. 
Possibly,  there  is  more  Egyptian  cot- 
ton used  for  filling  in  fabrics  which 
are  to  be  mercerized  than  there  is 
in  any  other  one  material  with  the 
exception  of  knitted  fabrics.  Follow- 
ing is  the  analysis  of  the  fabric  con- 
sidered which  contains  a  dobby  pat- 
tern with  stripes  of  crowded  yarn, 
and  also  a  plain  fabric  of  a  higher 
construction   and   with   finer   yams. 

ANALYSIS   NO.    1. 

TVidth    of    warp    in    reed,    29%    inches. 
Width    of    fabric    finished,    28    Inches. 
Knds  per  inch   finished    (over  all)    84. 
Ends  per  inch  finished   (ground)    68. 
Reed    32    X    2. 

2  2 

Ends  in  the  warp    —  2,288  —  =   2,352,  total 
16  16 

ends. 
"Warp  yarn   55/1. 
Filling   yarn    30/1. 
Picks   per    inch,    grey,    72. 
Warp    take-up.    7%. 
Warp   weight,    grey   .0547. 
Filling   weight,   grey  .0843. 
Total   weight  per  yard,   grey  .1390. 
Yards  per  pound   7.19. 

ANALYSIS  NO.   2. 

W^idth  of  warp  in  reed,    29%   Inches. 
Width    of   fabric   finished.    28   inches. 
Ends  per  inch  finished  72. 
Reed    34    X    2. 

2  2 

Ends   in   warp     —     1,974     —     =     2,038. 

16  16 

W^arp    yarn    70/1. 
Filling   yarn    40/1. 
Picks   per    inch,    grey,    96. 
Warp    take-up,    6%. 
Wnrp  weight,  grey  .0369. 
Filling  weight,   grey  .0843. 
Total    weight,    per    yard,    grey    .1212. 
Yards   per   pound,    grey   8.25. 


14 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


Most  of  the  fabrics  which  are  of 
the  construction  described  are  made 
on  ordinary  or  fancy  looms,  and  com- 
paratively few  are  made  on  automatic 
machines.      This    is    true    partly    be- 


.■v-3 


Weave    Diagram. 

cause  the  mills  which  can  produce 
yarns  of  the  required  quality  do  not 
contain  many  automatic  looms  and 
also  because  there  is  a  much  greater 
Tjecessitv    for   having    the    cloth    pro- 


duced contain  few  flaws  when  com- 
pared with  cheap  carded  materials. 
Then  it  is  also  questionable  whether 
there  is  any  great  advantage  to  be 
gained  through  the  use  of  automatic 
looms  when  fine  warp  yams  are  used. 
In  any  case,  it  is  at  least  certain  that 
the  advantage  which  is  obtained  is 
not  as  great  as  it  is  on  fabrics  which 
are  woven  from  rather  heavy  yarns. 
A  large  portion  of  the  mercerized 
fabrics  are  made  with  fancy  dobby 
or  jacquard  weaves,  and  for  these 
weaves  the  ordinary  automatic  ar- 
rangement is  not  very  adaptable. 

In  making  patterns  for  these 
cloths  it  is  almost  always  the  prac- 
tice to  make  the  figures  almost  en- 
tirely of  filling  floats.  This  shows  up 
the  flgures  more  prominently,  and 
when  the  cloth  is  mercerized  the 
results  are  more  desirable.  Some- 
times warp  floats  are  used  in  com- 
bination with  filling  floats  so  as  to 
bring  out  certain  effects,  but  they 
are  not  used  extensively,  because  the 
warp  is  usually  of  much  finer  size 
than  the  filling  and  does  not  show  up 
any  effects  very  well.  Stripes  are 
sometimes  operated  from  the  same 
beam  as  the  ground  yarn,  and  this 
probably  has  been  done  in  the  cloth 
which  we  have  analyzed.  This  meth- 
od can  be  taken  if  the  weave  and 
threads  per  dent  can  be  adjusted  cor- 
rectly, but  the  price  of  cloth  and  the 
demands  of  buyers  often  make  sucTi 
a  thing  impossible,  and  the  stripe 
must  be  made  from  an  extra  beam. 
When  colored  stripes  are  being  pro- 
duced, even  though  woven  with  plain 
weave,  they  are  practically  always 
placed   on   a  separate    beam. 

We  are  giving  the  drawing-in  draft 
and  chain  for  Fabric  No.  1  which 
has  been  analyzed.  This  should  be 
entirely  clear,  but  for  various  reasons, 
it  may  be  well  to  state  that  the  fig- 
ures in  the  draft  represent  the  vari- 
ous harnesses  on  which  the  warp 
threads  are  drawn  to  produce  this 
pattern.  The  figures  at  the  bottom  of 
the  draft  represent  the  number  of 
threads  which  are  reeded  in  each 
dent  after  they  have  been  drawn 
through  the  headle  eyes  in  the  har- 
nesses, while  the  flgures  to  the  right 
of  the  draft  represent  the  number  of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


16 


heddles  which  are  required  on  each 
harnes?,,  so  that  the  warp  can  be  all 
drawn  in.  In  fancy  cloth  mills,  har- 
nesses are  almost  always  made  up 
previous  to  the  drawing-in  operation, 
so  that  it  will  not  be  necessary  to 
add  any  heddles  when  the  warp  is 
partly  drawn  in,  or  take  them  off 
after  the  drawing-in  is  completed. 
FINISHING. 

As  previously  stated,  the  fabric 
which  is  being  considered  is  treated 
in  a  radically  different  manner  from 
that  used  on  the  ordinary  madras  or 
waisting  fabrics.  In  the  first  place, 
it  is  necessary  to  bleach  the 
cloth  because  it  is  in  its  grey 
state  when  woven,  and  the  yarns  con- 
tain the  cotton  wax  besides  the  dirt 
from  handling  and  other  foreign  ma- 
terial which  has  to  be  eliminated  be- 
fore any  material  can  be  successfully 
dyed  or  finished.  Some  finishers  use 
the  ordinary  bleach  when  finishing 
such  fabrics,  while  others  use  the 
peroxide  process,  but  the  method  em- 
ployed is  of  little  importance.  The 
bleaching  makes  the  fabric  which  is 
being  treated  white,  but  it  does  not 
impart  any  lustre  to  it.  This  is  done 
by  another  process  which  is  called 
mercerization,  from  the  man  who  or- 
iginally discovered  the  process. 

Caustic  soda  when  applied  to  cot- 
ton cloth  or  yarn  causes  it  to  shrink 
very  materially,  usually  about  20  per 
cent  when  the  cloth  is  shrunk 
as  much  as  possible,  but  when 
this  is  allowed  there  is  no  lustre  im- 
parted. The  lustre  is  obtained  when 
the  material  is  held  out  to  as  nearly 
its  grey  width  as  possible.  The  cot- 
ton fibres,  which  in  their  ordinary 
state  are  rather  flat  twisted  tubes, 
seem  to  swell  out  and  appear  more 
or  less  like  small  glass  rods  when 
examined  under  the  microscope  after 
they  have  been  mercerized.  This 
smooth  appearance  reflects  the  light 
rays  and  makes  the  lustre  which  is 
ordinarily  noted.  By  using  filling 
which   is   soft   twisted   the 

PROCESS    OF    MERCERIZATION 

is  aided,  for  the  fibres,  as 
previously  stated,  lie  more  nearly 
parallel  in  the  fabric,  although  it  is 
possible    to    impart     some     lustre    to 


even  the  shortest  cotton  fibres,  and 
also  when  they  are  twisted  harder 
than  ordinarily  noted.  This  will  be 
readily  recognized  by  examining 
some  of  the  high-class  voiles  which 
are  now  being  sold,  because  the  yarns 
which  these  fabrics  contain  are  very 
hard  twisted,  but  even  under  such 
conditions  it  has  been  found  that 
mercerization  adds  to  their  finished 
appearance,  and  it  is  often  employed. 
Various  methods  are  used  to  obtain 
the  lustrous  results  which  are  noted 
in  this  class  of  fabrics,  but  the  main 
necessity  in  obtaining  these  results 
is  to  hold  out  the  fabric  tightly  in  the 
filling  direction  when  it  is  being 
treated,  and,  at  the  same  time,  to 
allow  the  caustic  soda  solution  to 
operate.  It  would  naturally  be  sup- 
posed that  results  would  be  better  if 
a  stronger  solution  were  to  be  used, 
but  this  is  not  true,  and  the  use  of 
a  solution  over  a  certain  strength  is 
only  a  waste  of  material  and  adds 
to  the  cost.  After  mercerization  the 
fabric  is  washed,  worked,  so  as  to 
slip  the  threads  and  picks  into  their 
proper  positions,  calendered,  folded 
and  handled  in  any  special  way  nec- 
essary, and  is  then  ready  for  ship- 
ment. Quite  a  little  of  such  mate- 
rial is  sold  in  the  white  state,  but 
there  are  also  a  good  many  fabrics 
which  are  printed  or  piece  dyed  in 
addition  to  being  mercerized. 

THE   PRICE   FOR   FINISHING 

and  applying  the  mercerization  proc- 
ess will  vary  somewhat,  but  to-day 
the  quoted  price  is  l^/i  cents  a  yard, 
with  an  allowance  of  2  per  cent  as 
a  working  loss  in  yardage  and  3 
cents  a  piece  for  the  so-called  silk 
papers  for  folders.  It  often  happens 
when  finishing  fabrics  entirely  in  the 
white  that  this  above-mentioned  2 
per  cent  working  loss  does  not  oc- 
cur. The  charge  for  the  cases  in 
which  the  fabrics  are  shipped  is  usu- 
ally about  one-twentieth  of  a  cent  a 
yard.  When  a  fabric  is  to  be  dyed 
in  addition  to  bleaching  and  mercer- 
izing, the  price  is  IVz  cents  a  yard, 
and  the  2  per  cent  working  loss  is 
almost  always  noted  because  of  the 
smaller  quantities  handled.  For  print- 
ing,   in    addition     to     bleaching     and 


1« 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


mercerizing,  the  price  is  likely  to  be 
about  2  cents  a  yard,  although  the 
kind  of  pattern  desired  will  affect  the 
cost  somewhat.  In  all  the  above  quo- 
tations the  amount  of  cloth  which  is 
to  be  finished  will  affect  the  prices 
named  for  accomplishing  it,  that  is, 
when  a  small  amount  is  to  be  treat- 
ed, the  price  is  likely  to  be  somewhat 


Drawing-in    Draft. 

higher  than  when  a  large  amount  is 
to  be  done.  In  general,  it  can  be  said 
that  the  price  for  this  work  has  de- 
creased quite  a  little  in  recent  years, 
and,  in  addition,  the  results  obtained 
are  very  much  improved,  facts  which 
have  in  this  instance  been  responsi- 
ble for  cheaper  cloth  to  the  consumer. 
As  previously  stated,  the  warp  in 
mercerized  fabrics  such  as  those  de- 


scribed is  usually  of  rather  fine  size, 
but  in  construction  it  is  no  different 
from  the  ordinary  warp  of  the  same 
size  used  in  making  the  usual  fancy 
cloths.  For  55s-l  combed  warp  for 
cloth  similar  to  that  analyzed  the 
cotton  used  would  be  1^/4  inches  in 
length.  The  rolls  on  the  various 
frames  should  be  set  so  that  in  no 
case  will  the  cotton  fibres  be  broken, 
for  unsatisfactory  yarn  will  result  if 
this  is  done.  The  55s-l  warp  might 
be  made  either  by  three  or  four  proc- 
esses of  fly-frames,  although  it  is 
likely  that  four  processes  will  give 
much  better  and  more  satisfactory  re- 
sults. Two  layouts  for  such  yarn 
follow  one  produced  from  a  35-grain 
finisher  drawing  sliver,  and  with  3 
processes  of  fly-frames  and  the  other 
for  a  finisher  drawing  sliver  of  48 
grains  with  4  processes  of  fly-frames. 


3     PROCESSES, 

1   yard  of  55/1   = 

.ISl.^i   grains. 


FLY    FRAMES. 


.97   3%   contraction  In  spinning. 


.1470 

10.27  spinning  draft. 


1.514   -«-   2   ends   =   .757 
6.85   fine  frame   draft. 


11   hank  roving. 


5.185   -i-  2  ends  =   2.59  =  3.21  hank  roving. 
5.75   intermediate  frame  draft. 


14.892   H-  2  ends  =  7.45   =  1.12  hank  roving. 
4.70  slubber  frame  draft. 


35  grain.s    finisher    drawing    weight. 

4     PROCESSES,     FLY     FRAMES. 
1   yard  of  55/1   = 
.1515   grains. 

.97   3%   contraction  in  spinning. 


.1470 

10.27   spinning  draft. 


1.514   -H   2   ends   =   .757    =    11   hank   roving. 
6   fine    frame    draft. 


4.54   -H  2  ends  =   2.27   =  3.67  hank  roving. 
5.2  second    intermediate    draft. 


11.80   H-   2  ends  =  5.90  =   1.41  hank  roving. 
4.4   first   intermediate   draft. 


25.96    -H   2  ends  =  32.98   =  .64  hank  roving. 
3.7   slubber    frame    draft. 


4  8   grains    finisher    drawing    weight. 

The  filling  used  in  such  a  cloth 
would  probably  be  made  from  1%- 
inch  cotton,  and  the  rolls  should  be 
set  correctly  for  this  length  of  sta- 
ple. It  often  happens  that  it  is  nec- 
essary to  use  a  longer  cotton  staple 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


17 


in  making  filling  yarn  which  is  to  be 
used  in  cloth  that  is  to  be  mercerized. 
Methods  will  depend  somewhat  on 
the  machinery  being  usea  and  largely 
on  the  amount  of  twist  which  is  to 
be  given  to  the  yarn  for  filling.  When 
the  twist  per  inch  is  lowered  radi- 
cally, a  longer  staple  of  cotton  must 
be  used  if  the  yarn  spins  well  in  the 
spinning  room,  or  if  it  be  handled 
successfully,  that  is,  if  it  is  made  on 
an  ordinary  spinning  frame.  One  lay- 
out for  30s-l  filling  which  is  to  be 
soft  twisted  and  produced  with  three 
fly-frame  processes  and  with  a  45- 
grain  finisher  drawing  sliver  is  as 
follows : 

1  yard  of  30/1   = 
.2778   grains. 

.98   2%  contraction  in  spinning. 


.2722 
8.45   spinning   frame   draft. 


2.30   -H   2  ends  =   1.15   ==  7.25  hanli  roving. 
6.5   fine    frame    draft. 


7.48   -s-  2  ends  =  3.74  =  2.23  hank  roving. 
5.57   intermediate    frame    draft. 


20.83   -i-  2  ends  =  10.42   =  .8  liank  roving. 
4.32   slubber  frame  draft. 

45   grains    finisher    drawing    weight. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  state  any 
particular  facts  regarding  the  meth- 
ods which  should  be  used  in  handling 
cotton  in  the  early  processes  of  mak- 
ing cotton  yarn,  for  they  are  well 
known,  and  any  radical  changes  from 
them  are  likely  to  result  in  poor  yarn 
and  low  quality  cloth.  The  more 
care  which  is  given  to  the  prelimi- 
nary processes  of  yarn  making  the 
better  will  be  the  quality  of  the  cloth 
and  the  price  which  can  be  obtain- 
ed. In  no  case  should  a  machine  be 
operated  at  an  excessive  speed  in 
order  to  obtain  greater  production, 
especially  when  the  fabric  which  is 
to  be  produced  is  selling  for  a  com- 
parativfly  high  price,  and  it  is  very 
questionable  whether  on  the  cheap- 
est fabrics  excessive  speed  results  in 
any  great   ultimate  economy. 

DYEING    PARTICCLARS. 

ORANGE. 
Toluylene    fast   orange    L     X     1V4%. 
10-30%    Glauber's  salt  crystals. 
1-2%   soda   ash. 

Enter    at    the    boiling    point    and    work    with 
the  steam   turned  off. 


RED. 
Benso    fast    eosine    B     L     2%. 
20-()0%   Glauber's  salt  crystals. 
1-2%    soda  ash. 

Enter  at  the  boiling  point  and  work  with 
the  steam   turned  oft. 

BLUE. 
Oxamlne   blue   3    B    M     %%. 
10-20%    Glauber's  salt  crystals. 

YELLOW. 
Stilbene   yellow,    2   G   P   extra   cons.    1%. 
10-20%    Glauber's  salt  crystals. 

PINK. 

Benso   fast  eosine  B    L     %%• 

20-60%    Glauhe-'a   salt    crystals. 

1-2%   soda  ash. 

Enter  at  a  rainer  low  temperature  and 
warm  up  rather  slowly.  The  Glauber's 
salt  is  added  subsequently  and  In  several 
portions. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Benso  fast  heliotrope    %%. 
10-30%   Glauber's  salt  crystals. 
1-2%   soda  ash. 

Enter  at  the  boiling  point  and  work  with 
the   steam   turned  off. 

BROWN. 
CJotton    brown    G     2    %%. 
10-20%   Glauber's  salt  crystals. 


#  »» 


RAMIE-LINEN 


There  is  one  fabric  which  deserves 
mention  at  the  present  time,  not  be- 
cause the  construction  is  especially 
new  or  intricate,  but  because  of  the 
adaptation  of  the  cloth  to  obtain  a 
certain  end.  This  cloth  is  what  is  gen- 
erally known  as  Ramie-Linen.  The 
name  of  the  fabric  is  used  to  give  add- 
ed selling  ability,  and  many  consum- 
ers would  be  led  to  believe  that  it 
was  composed  of  something  else  be- 
sides cotton,  possibly  that  it  was  lin- 
en treated  in  a  different  manner  from 
that  ordinarily  noted.  This  method 
of  naming  a  fabric  does  not  permit 
the  obtaining  of  as  high  a  price  as 
could  be  obtained  if  the  fabric  were 
linen  and  a  consumer  was  certain  of 
it,  but  it  does  make  it  possible  in  a 
great  many  cases  to  obtain  a  higher 
price  than  if  consumers  were  sure 
it  was  composed  of  nothing  but  cot- 
ton. Not  only  has  this  fabric  been 
given  a  very  deceptive  name  and  one 
which  should  not  be  possible  to  use 
for  such  a  fabric,  but  it  has  also  been 
constructed  in  a  similar  manner  so 
far  as   its   yarns   are   concerned   and 


18 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


also  finished  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
appear  exactly  like  a  good  many  of 
the  coarse  linen  cloths. 

Undoubtedly,  there  will  be  a  great 
deal  of  such  material  sold  by  retailers 
as  linen,  not  because  they  have  any 
intention  to  oker  low  values  but  be- 
cause of  general  conditions  which 
apply  to  this  particular  fabric,  for  in 
some  cases  it  is  entirely  probable  that 
retailers  will  not  know  that  such  a 
cloth  is  made  from  cotton.  As  a  gen- 
eral statement,  it  can  be  said  that 
there  are  no  such  wide  variations  in 
price  on  such  a  fabric  as  that  consid- 
ered as  would  be  noted  on  the  more 
expensive  materials,  due  to  conditions 
of  making,  but  the  selling  of  such  mer- 
chandise affects  that  class  of  consum- 
ers who  can  least  afford  to  suffer  any 
losses  through  mistakes  in  purchasing 
fabrics  at  a  comparatively  high  price 
and  under  deceptive  conditions.  A 
small  additional  profit  per  yard  on  a 
coarse  fabric  makes  a  great  difference 
in  the  ultimate  profit  secured,  for  the 
production  and  distribution  is  large 
and  profits  are  secured  from  such 
features  rather  than  from  extremely 
high  prices. 

Fabrics  such  as  that  described  are 
used  for  dresses,  waists,  coverings,  in 
fact,  for  practically  all  the  purposes 
for  which  similar  grades  of  linen 
would  be  suitable.  These  fabrics  have 
been  produced  by  mills  in  the 
grey  state  and  they  are  sold  to  con- 
verters who  have  them  finished  in  the 
manner  which  they  desire,  and  it  is 
very  likely  that  the  mills  which  have 
made  the  cloth  have  not  received  any 
great  additional  profit  over  that  which 
would  have  been  noticed  recently  be- 
cause these  fabrics  have  been  in  de- 
mand. It  is  probable  that  mills  have 
ohtained  anywhere  from  1|  to  1|  cents 
per  yard  profit  on  these  cloths,  but 
this  is  high  and  does  not  indicate  con- 
ditions which  apply  generally  to  this 
class  of  cloth  making.  Of  course,  the 
above  named  profits  will  return  a 
handsome  dividend  to  any  mill  produc- 
ing them,  but  it  is  among  the  subse- 
quent sellers  that  variable  prices  are 
developed  when  any  are  noted. 

As  a  fabric  this  material  is  rather 
coarse  and  made  from  very  heavy  sizes 
of  yarn,    the   threads   and   picks   per 


inch  being  comparatively  few  in  num- 
ber. Not  only  are  the  yams  heavy, 
but  they  are  also  very  irregular,  in 
fact,  the  more  irregular  they  are,  the 
more  desirable  the  fabric  is  to  buyers 
when  it  comes  to  be  finished  and  sold 
as  they  are  in  imiiations  of  linens.  In 
a  good  many  cases  the  yarns  are  made 
from  waste  obtained  in  the  making 
of  better  yarn,  and  the  fabrics  are  no 
different  from  ordinary  Osnaburgs  or 
crashes,  that  is,  if  they  were  distrib- 
uted through  other  channels. 

In  fact,  many  converters  have  pur- 
chased the  above  fabrics  and  used 
them  for  imitation  linens.  In  practi- 
cally all  instances  these  cloths  are 
woven  with  plain  weave,  because  this 
weave,  together  with  the  kinds  of  yarn 
used,  gives  by  far  the  best  results,  as 
it  shows  up  the  irregularities  in  the 
woven  fabrics  and  makes  the  finished 
article  more  salable.  Fabrics  such, 
as  that  described,  that  is,  made  with 
coarse  yarn,  and  a  comparatively  small 
number  of  threads  and  picks  per  inch 
and  woven  with  a  simple  weave  should 
be  produced  on  some  kind  of  an  auto- 
matic loom.  This  method  allows  a 
weaver  to  operate  a  greater  number 
of  looms,  and  decreases  the  cost  of 
production  quite  radically,  possibly 
not  as  large  an  amount  per  pound  as 
on  finer  cloths,  because  a  loom  pro- 
duces a  larger  poundage,  but,  never- 
theless, a  large  enough  item  to  make  a 
great  difference  in  the  profits  secured. 
The  irregularity  of  the  yarns  compos- 
ing the  fabric  tends  to  make  it  firm- 
er than  it  otherwise  would  be;  tha; 
is,  with  a  plain  weave  and  a  certain 
size  of  yarn  the  count  of  the  cloth 
would  have  to  be  higher  with  smooth 
round  yarn  than  it  would  with  irregu- 
lar yam,  such  as  is  noted  in  this 
fabric  or  in  other  novelty  cloths  which 
are  selling  at  the  present  time. 

This  is  one  of  the  comparatively 
few  fabrics  where  uneven  and  cheap 
yarn  is  rather  desirable,  and,  naturally, 
machinery  is  worked  as  hard  as  pos- 
sible, not  only  because  it  gives  great- 
er production,  but  also  because  it 
tends  to  make  the  yarn  uneven.  Even 
in  making  yarns  as  coarse  as  those 
considered  and  of  as  poor  quality,  it 
is  still  necessary  to  keep  as  many  ma- 
chines in   operation  as  possible,   and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


19 


bave  the  organization  correct,  for 
only  in  this  manner  can  costs  be  kept 
as  low  as  possible. 

ITEMS   REGARDING   PRICE. 

As  we  previously  stated,  this  cloth 
is  one  of  the  coarsest  produced  and 
naturally  the  selling  price  is  low.  A 
good  many  of  these  materials  which 
are  sold  for  use  as  linens  have  been 
sold  at  36  inches  wide  in  the  grey 
state,  and  when  finished  tliey  are 
about  2  inches  narrower,  or  34  inches. 
The  mill  selling  price  for  the  fabric 
which  we  have  analyzed  was  73  cents 
per  yard,  for  36-inch  wide  cloth,  or 
about  24i  cents  per  pound,  on  a 
poundage  basis.  This  price  ishould 
return  good  dividends  to  the  mill,  for 
the  cost  of  making  this  sort  of  fabric 
is  not  much  ove",  if  it  is  any  over,  20 
cents  per  pound,  thus  leaving  the  mill 
about  4|  cents  per  pound  profit,  or 
nearly  1|  cents  per  yard,  an  amount 
which  even  a  fine  and  fancy  mill  will 
seldom  average  for  profits. 

One  interesting  feature  regarding 
the  cloth  is  that  the  material  or  cot- 
ton of  which  it  is  composed  forms 
quite  a  large  proportion  of  the  cost 
of  making,  in  many  instances,  it  being 
over  75  per  cent  of  the  total  cost,  leav- 
ing the  remainder  for  the  various 
items  of  expense,  depreciation,  labor, 
etc.  The  labor  cost  per  pound  is  a 
comparatively  small  amount,  because 
the  average  production  per  operative 
is  quite  large.  The  cost  of  having 
this  fabric  finished  is  1|  cents  per 
yard  and  together  with  the  expenses 
cf  selling,  etc.,  which  a  converter 
would  have,  the  cost  to  him  would  be 
probably  about  10^  to  11  cents  per 
yard.  Under  this  condition  the  sell- 
ing price  to  the  jobber  would  be  about 
lo  cents  and  from  the  jobber  to  the 
retailer,  about  16^  cents  per  yard,  thus 
placing  the  fabric  easily  in  the  25- 
cent  class  to  consumers. 

A  good  many  sellers  have  sold  such 
fabrics  at  the  above  prices,  but  retail 
prices  do  not  always  coincide  with 
those  planned  when  the  cloth  was 
bought  from  the  mill,  because  retail 
prices  vary  in  certain  instances  to 
as  high  as  32  to  35  cents  per 
yard  for  fabrics  which  appear  identi- 
cal with  that  which  has  been  analyzed. 


Apparently,  the  consumer  is  sometimes 
paying  from  25  to  40  per  cent  more 
than  should  be  noted,  in  addition  to 
the  satisfactory  profits  which  the  vari- 
ous sellers  are  obtaining  when  the  fab- 
ric is  sold  at  the  intended  price  or 
25  cents  per  yard  at  retail. 

CLOTH  WEIGHTS. 

As  previously  stated,  fabrics  which 
are  used  for  the  purposes  described, 
are  rather  heavy  in  weight,  because 
the  sizes  of  yarn  used  are  heavy,  and 
it  is  seldom  that  the  cloth  weight  is 
lighter  than  4  yards  per  pound,  or 
4  ounces  per  yard,  for  36-inch  wide 
goods.  We  will  not  consider  the 
weights  of  either  the  yarn  or  the  cloth 
when  the  material  has  been  finished, 
because  at  that  time  the  weights  are 
not  the  same  as  when  the  cloth  is  wov- 
en, and  the  weight  is  not  considered 
by  any  of  the  various  buyers  or  sell- 
ers, with  the  exception  of  the  convert- 
er or  buyer  who  purchases  or  han- 
dles the  goods  when  they  were  first 
woven.  The  warp  yam  sizes  8-1  when 
it  is  woven  and  the  filling  sizes  9.5-1 
The  details  for  the  cloth  are  as  fol 
lows: 

Width   of  warp   in   reed   37%    inches. 
Width   of  cloth,    grey   36   inches. 
Width   of  cloth   linlshed   34   inches. 
Ends   per   inch    finished   35    inches. 
Reed   32    X    1   or   16    X    2. 
Ends   in   warp,    1,208,    total. 
Warp   yarn    8/1. 
Filling  yarn   9.5/1. 
Picks  per   inch    26. 
Warp    talce-up    5%. 
Warp    weight,    grey    .1892. 
Filling    weight,    grey    .1222. 
Total   weight  per  yard,   grey  .3114. 
Yards    per   pound,    grey    3.21. 
The   fabric   as  sold,    5   oz.    per  yard. 
Plain   weave. 

Selvages,    8    crowded    ends    each   edge  of  the 
fabric. 

The  warp  yams  which  compose  a 
fabric  such  as  that  analyzed  are  usu- 
ally sized  quite  a  little  so  as  to  make 
better  work  in  the  weave  room,  and, 
in  some  instances,  to  give  weight  to 
the  fabric.  Probably  the  ordinary 
amount  of  size  as  applied  to  a  fabric 
of  this  character  would  be  from  7| 
to  10  per  cent,  thus  making  a  yarn 
which  had  a  size  of  lOs-1  on  the  spin- 
ning frame  then  come  about  9s-l  as 
it  enters  the  loom.  The  operation  of 
the  loom  is  likely  to  rub  off  some  of 
the   cotton   fibres   and  size,   and   this 


20 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


makes  the  yam  somewhat  finer  than 
it  was  on  the  loom  beam,  but  not  so 
fine  as  when  first  spun,  so  that  the 
cloth  is  somewhat  heavier  than  the 
spinning  frame  yarn  sizes  would  indi- 
cate. 

A  good  many  manufacturers  allow 
for  this  added  weight  when  arriving 
at  their  cloth  weights,  while  others 
do  not.  If  some  such  arrangement  is 
not  used,  the  cloth  weights  as  sold 
will  be  heavier  than  other  manufac- 
turers are  delivering.  The  size  which 
is  applied  is  entirely  washed  out  when 
the  material  is  bleached,  and  unless 
more  is  added  in  the  finishing  process, 
the  cloth  is  lighter  when  sold  than 
it  is  when  woven.  In  addition  to  the 
loss  due  to  size,  there  is  a  stretching 
and  pulling  of  the  fabric  which  usu- 
ally makes  it  lighter  per  yard,  and 
besides  there  are  losses  caused  by 
the  bleaching   process. 

There  are  also  other  factors  which 
affect  the  cloth  losses,  and  in  ex- 
ceptionally few  cases  cloth  gains, 
such  as  the  kind  of  cotton  used,  the 
amount  of  twist  which  the 
yam  contains,  the  cloth  con- 
stmction  used,  the  method  of  finish- 
ing, and  the  kind  of  dyestuff  used. 
Short  cotton  will  cause  greater  losses 
than  longer  staple,  a  soft 
twist  yam  will  lose  more  than 
a  hard  twist  one,  and  there  will  be 
more  friction  and  a  greater  resulting 
loss  in  a  firmly  constructed  fabric 
than  one  where  there  are  few  threads 
and  picks  per  inch.  Mercerization 
and  lother  details  of  finishing  also 
affect  the  result,  and  dyeing  is  likely  to 
add  somewhat  to  the  weight,  although 
in  cotton  finishing  results  these 
changes  are  in  no  case  comparable  to 
those  noted  when  other  materials  are 
being  dyed.  There  are  other  condi- 
tions which  may  at  times  affect  the 
results,  so  that  the  same  fabric  or 
the  same  yam  when  finished  may  ap- 
pear to  have  been  entirely  different 
when  first  made,  whereas  their  changed 
appearance  is  due  entirely  to  the  pro- 
cesses through  which  they  have  gone. 

FINISHING. 

The  first  step  in  the  finishing  of  a 
fabric  such  as  that  considered  is  no 
different  than  that  employed  on  very 


many  other  similar  fabrics  which  are 
to  be  used  for  dress  goods,  for  they 
are  bleached  and  handled  in  a  manner 
simiHr  to  that  ordinarily  employed  in 
bleaching.  After  the  cloth  has  been 
bleached,  instead  of  being  sold  in  this 
condition,  it  is  subjected  to  a  process 
of  mercerization,  and  this  is  the  method 
by  which  the  glossy  appearance  is  im- 
parted and  which  makes  it  possible 
to  use  the  material  in  imitation  of 
linens. 

How  much  the  m.ercerization  process 
has  improved  in  results  and  the  influ- 
ence it  is  exerting  generally  on  a 
great  many  classes  of  fabrics  is  cl-ear- 
ly  shown  by  the  fabrics  analyzed. 
Only  a  comparatively  short  time  ago, 
mercerization  was  not  applied  to  yams 
or  fabrics  made  from  short  staples  of 
cotton,  for  the  results  were  n'^t  espe- 
cially good,  but  it  is  now  seen  that 
the  poor  results  were  not  caused  so 
much  by  the  short  fibres  not  merceriz- 
ing as  it  was  because  there  was  so 
much  twist  placed  in  yarns  which  were 
composed  of  short  fibre  cotton.  This 
large  amount  of  twist,  which  was  nec- 
essary to  give  the  yarn  strength,  de- 
tracted a  great  deal  from  the  lustre 
which  could  be  imparted,  because  the 
fibres  did  not  have  their  parallel  posi- 
tion by  which  the  greatest  amount  of 
lustre  w^as  imported.  When  a  yam  is 
soft  twisted  a  longer  staple  of  cotton 
is  used  and  this  allows  the  fibres  to 
lie  more  nearly  parallel,  so  that  it  was 
practical  rather  than  theoretical  diffi- 
culties which  made  the  mercerization 
process  undesirable,  excepting  for  the 
better  cloths,  a  short  time  ago. 

Not  only  h^s  the  process  been  im- 
proved greatly,  so  th^t  results  are 
good  even  on  low  quality  of  cloths, 
but  the  costs  of  application  have  de- 
clined quite  a  little,  so  that  this  fact 
makes  it  possible  to  apnly  the  process 
extensively,  w^hereas  the  price  alone 
a  short  time  aero  prohibited  its  use 
somewhat.  Note  the  cost  which  we 
have  given  in  arriving  at  the  cost  of 
the  goods.  This  is  15  cents  per  yard 
and  it  includes  bleaching,  dyeing,  mer- 
cerizing and  the  other  processes  which 
go  to  make  a  finished  fabric  such  as 
that  described. 

Expensive  finishing  processes  are  not 
often  available  lor  the  cheaper  grades 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


tl 


of  fabrics,  for  they  place  them  in 
a  higher  range  of  prices,  for  wliich  they 
cannot  always  be  sold,  and  in  any  case 
curtail  their  distribution  quite  extenr 
sively.  Sometimes,  in  finishing,  starch 
is  added  to  give  fullness  to  these  fab- 
rics, but  when  this  is  done,  some  kind 
of  a  softener  is  also  applied  to  give  the 
cloth  the  soft  effect  desired.  A  light 
calendering  is  sometimes  used, 
although  it  is  not  especial- 
ly necessary  when  the  fab- 
ric has  had  a  good  mercerization 
process.  As  a  general  statement  it 
can  be  said  that  the  application  of  fin- 
ishes to  fabrics  and  the  combination 
of  weaves  and  stripes  to  make  desir- 
able finished  materials  have  improved 
very  much  during  the  past  five  years, 
which  is  a  good  indication  regarding 
what  the  future  of  the  industry  will 
be.  A  good  many  converters  are  just 
beginning  to  realize  the  possibilities 
of  the  various  fabrics,  and  the  methods 
of  finishing  which  are  available,  and 
the  results  have  been  surprisingly 
good  when  comparisons  are  made. 

YARNS. 

The  yams  used  in  these  cloths  are 
very  uneven,  in  fact,  the  more  irregu- 
larity they  show,  the  better 
is  the  cloth  produced,  so 
that  it  might  be  said  that  the 
making  of  the  cloth  lies  largely  in 
the  yarns  which  are  used  in  weaving 
It.  The  cotton  staple  used  is  likely 
to  be  short,  about  the  shortest  which 
is  obtainable  in  the  domestic  market, 
and  often  waste  of  various 
kinds  is  used  to  make  the  yarns  pro- 
duced more  uneven.  Inasmuch  as  un- 
even results  are  desirable,  it  is  often 
advisable  to  crowd  the  machines  up 
to  the  limit  of  their  capacity,  although 
even  for  this  ki^d  of  work,  there  is  a 
limit  beyond  which  it  is  uneconomical 
to  go  in  the  making  of  any  yam,  that 
is,  it  would  not  be  a  good  policy  to 
have  the  yam  so  poor  that  the  per- 
centage of  production  on  the  loom  is 
very  low,  because  weaving  is  an  ex- 
pensive process. 

The  mixture  of  short  waste  does  not 
draw  like  the  other  cotton,  and  helps 
in  making  uneven  roving  and  yam. 
The  sliver  can  be  run  heavier  than  it 
can.  even  for  ordinary  cloths  such  as 


prints,  sheetings,  etc.,  and  possibly  a 
70-grain  finislier  sliver  could  be  used 
satisfactorily.  It  might  also  be  pos- 
sible to  cut  out  one  of  the  processes 
of  roving  frames  and  make  the  yarn 
on  two  processes  instead  of  on  three, 
as  is  ordinarily  noted.  In  some  cases, 
it  is  entirely  possible  and  probably 
more  economical  to  use  single  roving 
for  spinning,  for  the  yarn  is  heavy 
and  should  cause  little  trouble  even  if 
it  is  not  as  strong  as  it  naturally 
would  be  for  the  sizes  of  yam  used. 
The  finished  hank  roving  which  is  used 
on  the  spinning  frame  might  be  from 
1  to  11,  for  this  would  tend  to  develop 
a  more  irregular  fabric  than  if  more 
doublings  were  used. 

In  making  such  yams  as  those  con- 
sidered there  is  as  little  waste  as  pos- 
sible taken  out  in  the  various  machines 
through  which  the  cotton  passes  for 
short  fibres,  and  bunches  are  of  de- 
cided advantage  instead  of  being  ob- 
jectionable as  they  are  in  ordinary 
yarns.  The  main  idea  in  the  production 
of  any  uneven  fabric  such  as  that  con- 
sidered is  to  get  the  cotton  into  a 
workable  yam  of  the  size  desired  in 
as  quick  and  cheap  a  manner  as  pos- 
sible, and  the  plan  of  production 
'should  be  made  accordingly. 

DYEING    PARTICULARS. 

ORANGE. 

Toluylene   Fast   Orange  L  X   !%%• 
10-30%    Glauber's  salt  crystals. 
1-2%   soda   ash. 

Enter    at    boiling    point    and    work    with    the 
steam   turned   oft. 

RED. 

Benso    fast    eoslne    B    L   2%. 
20-60%    Glauber's   salt    crystals. 
1-2%   soda   ash. 

Enter    at    boiling-    point    and    work    with    the 
steam  turned  off. 

BLUE. 

Oxamine  Blue   3   B  M    %  %. 
10-20%    Glauber's    salt   crystals. 


Stilbene  yellow  2  G  P  extra  cons.   1%. 
10-20%    Glauber's   salt   crystals. 

PINK. 

Benso    fast    eoslne    B    L    %%. 

20-60%     Glauber's    salt    crystals. 

1-2%   soda  ash. 

Enter     at     a     rather     low     temperature     and 

warm    up    rather    slowly. 
The    Glauber's    salt    Is    added    subsequently 

and  In  several  portions. 


22 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


HELIOTROPE. 

Benso    fast    heliotrope    %  %.■ 
10-30%   Glauber's  salt  crystals. 
1-2%  soda  ash. 

Enter   at   boiling   point   and   work   with    the 
steam  turned  oft. 

BROWN. 

Cotton   Brown    G    2    %%. 
10-20%    Glauber's  salt   crystals. 


CREPE  FABRICS 

There  is  a  continual  change  in  the 
styles  of  fabrics  in  demand  on  ordi- 
nary  cotton   dress   goods.     One   year 


Voiles  when  first  produced  did  not 
show  the  same  results  which  they  re- 
cently have,  and  through  the  addition 
of  silk  stripes  and  a  more  attractive 
finish,  they  have  been  good  sellers 
for  some  time.  Novelty  yarn  effects, 
such  as  are  used  in  the  ordinary 
eponge  fabrics,  had  been  selling  well 
for  some  time,  but  this  had  been  ac- 
complished by  adding  these  features 
to  voiles  and  other  ground  fabrics. 
Possibly,  the  present  season  there  has 
been  a  oetter  sale  for  crepes  and  crepe 
effects  than  there  ever  has  in  the  past, 
and  for  this  reason,  it  may  be  well  to 
consider  certain  of  such  fabrics  and 
their  method  of  production. 


(n\7fF  ■■'■  '  ■ TT 


Fabric  For  Which  Cost  and  Analysis  Is  Given. 


Bedford  cords  will  be  used  extensively, 
another  season  voiles  will  be  stylish, 
and  other  years,  radically  different 
materials  will  be  sold  and  used  ex- 
tensively, and  when  such  a  fabric  is  in 
demand,  it  will  be  likely  to  return 
larger  dividends  than  at  other  times 
to  cloth  makers  and  sellers.  By  com- 
bining various  weaves  and  styles  and 
producing  a  somewhat  different  effect 
the  cloth  styles  will  often  last  or  sell 
well  more  than  a  single  season,  and 
this  policy  is  generally  taken  by  man- 
ufacturers. 


In  a  general  way,  it  can  be  said  that 
there  are  many  uses  for  such  cloths, 
and  this  affords  a  large  production  and 
distribution,  not  only  when  there  is  an 
exceptional  demand,  but  regularly 
year  in  and  year  out.  They  are  used 
in  the  plain  state  and  are  also  com- 
bined with  silk  and  other  materials 
in  stripes  and  checks,  for  waistings 
and  various  kinds  of  dress  materials. 
In  certain  instances  they  are  used  for 
men's  shirtings,  and  they  are  also 
used  in  large  quantities  for  the  low- 
priced  kimonos,  dressing  sacques  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


4her  similar  articles.  The  lighter 
weight  materials  are  the  ones  which 
are  ordinarily  used  for  dresses,  while 
the  heavier  fabrics  are  used  for  some 
of  the  other  purposes  mentioned.  The 
materials  when  sold  are  of  a  widely 
different  appearance,  not  only  in 
weight,  some  being  light  enough  to 
be  used  as  over-dresses,  but  also  as 
to  the  effects  produced  on  them. 
Crepes  have  been  produced  for  a  long 
time,  not  only  on  the  domestic  mar- 
ket, but  also  in  foreign  countries,  and 
on   both   power   and   hand   looms,    al- 


When  a  fabric  is  made  with  a  low 
count,  such  as  is  seen  on  voiles  and 
crepes,  it  is  practically  always  the 
case  that  plain  weave  is  used  in  their 
production,  inasmuch  as  this  method 
gives  the  greatest  amount  of  firmness 
with  the  fewest  number  of  threads 
and  picks  per  inch.  Of  course,  many 
of  such  materials  are  woven  on  dobby 
and  jacquard  looms,  but  this  is  not 
because  the  ground  weave  or  crepe 
portion  of  the  cloth  demands  it,  but 
because  of  the  special  weave  made  nec- 
essary to  obtain  the  effects  desired. 


The  Striped  Crepe  Analyzed. 


though  it  is  probable  that  the  fabrics 
now  being  sold  are  an  improvement 
on  anything  formerly  produced*  at 
least  in  cotton  cloth.  A  good  many 
of  the  high-class  crepe  materials  now 
being  sold  are  woven  with  silk  stripes, 
which  contain  jacquard  figures  with 
novelty  yarn  in  stripes  and  checks,  and 
even  in  complicated  leno  fabrics  there 
are  yarns  used,  which,  when  the  cloth 
is  finished,  gives  a  combination  crepe 
fabric. 

An  ordinary  crepe  fabric  is  made 
with  a  rather  low  count,  for  unless 
this  were  done,  there  would  not  be 
opportunity  for  the  yarns  to  contract 
and  the  crinkled  effect  to  be  produced. 


A  good  many  ordinary  crepe  fabrics 
can  be  and  are  made  on  automatic 
looms,  and  through  such  means  the 
cost  of  production  is  appreciably  low- 
ered. This  can  be  done,  because,  on  the 
ordinary  fabrics,  the  yams  are  rather 
coarse  in  size,  and,  necessarily,  strong, 
and  also  because  plain  weave  is  used, 
making  exceptional  ability  on  the  part 
of  the  operative  unnecessary. 

The   one  fact  which   is   largely   re- 
sponsible     for      the      producing      of 

THE   CREPE  EFFECT 

is  the  amount  of  twist  which 
is  given  to  the  filling  in  the 
production  of  such  cloth.     In  a  cer- 


34 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tain  few  instances,  the  warp  yam  is 
made  with  a  small  amount  of  extra 
crisp,  but  usually  the  warp  yarn  in 
a  crepe  fabric  is  absolutely  no  differ- 
ent from  that  of  an  ordinary  fabric. 
In  the  production  of  cloth  which  is  to 
be  piece  mercerized,  the  standard  of 
twist  in  the  filling  yarn  will  be  from 
2%  to  three  times  the  square  root 
of  the  yarn  size;  on  ordinary  fabrics 
the  twist  standard  of  the  filling  is  like- 
ly to  be  from  31/2  to  31,  while  if  the 
filling  is  to  be  used  for  a  crepe  ma- 
terial, the  standard  of  twist  is  likely 
to  vary  from  six  to  as  high  as  nine 
times  the  square  root  of  the  yarn  size. 
This  extra  amount  of  twist  will 
make  the  filling  yarn  kink  up  if  it  is 
unwound  from  a  filling  bobbin,  and 
when  a  cloth  is  woven  and  immersed 
in  hot  water,  the  same  effects  are< 
noted  in  the  cloth.  Because  of  this 
shrinkage,  it  is  necessary  to  set  the 
twist  in  the  yarn  so  that  it  can  be 
used  in  the  weaving  operation.  This 
is  done  in  a  number  of  methods,  de- 
pending on  the  mill  system  being 
used,  but  possibly  the  method  having 
the  largest  use  is  to  place  the  filling 
bobbins  as  they  come  from  the  spin- 
ning frame  in  a  box  where  they  are 
treated  with  live  steam.  This  is  the 
process  which  is  ordinarily  used  for 
grey,  hard  twist  filling  yarn.  In  order 
to  have  the  yarn  clean  and  the  bobbin 
unaffected  by  this  steaming  process, 
it  is  necessary  to  use  enameled  bob- 
bins in  the  spinning  room. 

HARD  TWIST  YARNS 
will  vary  in  size  to  a  somewhat  great- 
er extent  than  regular  yarns,  and  as 
there  is  a  certain  amount  of  contrac- 
tion when  spinning,  the  yarn  size  is 
likely  to  be  heavier  than  the  frame 
drafts  and  roving  size  would  indicate. 
Usually  changes  are  made  in  the 
drafts  of  the  frames  until  the  result- 
ing yarn  size  is  the  one  desired.  Nat- 
urally, when  a  yarn  has  an  extra 
amount  of  twist  inserted,  it  will  lose 
a  good  deal  of  its  strength,  for  a  yarn 
is  strongest  with  a  standard  of  about 
41/^  times  the  square  root  of  the  yam 
size,  and  not  only  does  the  above  oc- 
cur, but  the  production  per  spindle 
will  decrease  radically  and  this  fact 
affects  the  cost  of  production.  In 
ordinary    crepes     the    filling  yarn  is 


hard  twisted  in  the  same  direction 
as  for  ordinary  filling,  only  there  is 
a  greater  amount  of  twist  inserted,  but 
there  are  other  crepe  fabrics  in  which 
filling  is  used  with  both  regular  and 
reverse  twist.  Such  kinds  of  cloth 
are  necessarily  woven  on  a  box  loom 
and  by  far  the  largest  amount  of  such 
fabrics  is  produced  with  two  picks 
of  regular  twist  and  two  picks  of  re- 
verse twist  fillings,  although  quite 
large  quantities  are  made  in  which  the 
picking  is  one  of  regular  and  one  of 
reverse  twist.  VVhen  cloth  is  made 
from  regular  and  reverse  twisted 
yarns,  it  can  be  easily  distinguished 
from  that  made  with  only  one  kind 
of  twist,  because  in  the  first  instance, 
there  is  a  regular  shrinkage  of  the 
cloth  with  one  kind  of  filling  acting 
against  the  other  in  producing  the 
crepe  effect,  while  in  the  second  meth- 
od the  filling  all  shrinks  in  the  same 
direction,  thus  producing  a  fabric 
which  contains  a  wavy  appearance. 
Most  of  the  ordinary  cheap  crepe  fab- 
rics are  made  with  filling  of  only  one 
twist,  while  a  good  many  of  the  more 
expensive  lines  contain  regular  and 
reverse  twisted  yarn. 

METHOD  OF  PRODUCING. 
There  are  a  great  many  kinds  of 
crepe  fabrics,  different  not  only  be- 
cause of  their  cloth  construction,  yarn 
sizes  and  woven  patterns,  but  also  be- 
cause there  are  entirely  different 
methods  of  production  used. 
First,  there  is  the  method  by 
which  the  majority  of  ordinary  crepes 
are  produced,  namely  their  making 
from  grey  yams.  Fabrics  made 
through  this  method,  are  often  dec- 
orated by  stripes  and  checks  not  only 
of  cotton,  but  also  of  silk,  and  when 
silk  is  used  a  fancy  weave  is  often 
employed.  When  these  cloths  are 
made  entirely  of  plain  weave  they  can 
be  sold  in  the  white  state  or  any 
piece  dyed  color,  or  they  can  be  print- 
ed in  almost  any  style  of  pattern  or 
colors,  and,  without  doubt,  more  of  the 
coarser  cloths  are  sold  in  the  printed 
state  than  in  any  other  form.  For  a 
real  crepe  fabric,  it  is  cheaper  to  pro- 
duce in  the  grey  cloth  method  than 
in  any  other,  and  this  is  probably  the 
reason  why  these  cloths  form  the  bulk 
of  the  sale. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


25 


A  second  method  is  to  produce  the 
cloth  from  bleached  and  dyed  yams, 
thus  producing  woven  stripes 
similar  in  appearance  to  the  styles 
used  in  ordinary  shirtings.  In  fact, 
this  method  is  used  extensively  when 
the  fabrics  are  to  be  used  for  shirt- 
ings. The  introduction  of  fast  colors 
which  will  stanJ  the  bleaching  opera- 
tion is,  however,  likely  to  result  in 
fewer  of  such  materials  being  pro- 
duced, and  it  is  radically  cheaper 
to-day  to  make  these  lines,  with  the 
exception  of  the  cloths  which  contain 
a  large  proportion  of  color  by  the  grey 


sider  it  as  a  seersucker  effect,  and 
while  it  naturally  belongs  in  the  seer 
sucker  class,  it  is  being  sold  as  i 
crepe  and  in  competition  with  it,  and 
should  be  included  in  the  general  de- 
scription. A  good  many  sellers  have 
not  considered  certain  of  the  results 
which  mercerization  causes.  To-day 
most  sellers  are  familiar  with  the  fact 
that  a  lustre  is  imparted  when  cloth 
is  treated  with  a  solution  of  caustic 
soda  and  held  out  tightly,  but  they 
do  not  always  know  that  cloth  treat- 
ed with  the  same  solution  and  not 
held  out  will  shrink  radically.    Upon 


A  Crinkled  Crepe  Produced  by  Mercerizing  Process. 


cloth  method.  There  are  also  a  few 
crepe  fabrics  which  are  produced  by 
a  method  of  pressing,  but  the  quan- 
tity produced  is  very  small,  and  the 
cloth  cannot  be  washed  and  still  re- 
tain the  effect  which  it  contained,  so 
it  is  not  an  actual  crepe  fabric. 

RESULTS  OF  MERCERIZATION. 

Another  method  of  production 
which  might  be  considered,  for  it  is 
having  a  very  large  use  at  present, 
is  that  which  results  in  making  a 
crinkled  effect  by  the  mercerization 
process.  Some  sellers  class  the  fabric 
pToduced  as  a  crepe  while  others  con- 


the  above  fact  the  production  of  this 
class  of  seersucker  or  crepe  Is  based. 
An  ordinary  fabric  is  printed  with 
a  paste  or  solution,  and  where  this  is 
applied  the  fabric  will  shrink,  and 
one  portion  of  the  fabric  being  treat- 
ed causes  the  portion  not  treated  to 
shrink  up  or  crinkle,  producing 
the  crepe  effect.  Many  of  such  fab- 
rics are  sold  in  the  white  or  colored 
state,  but  there  are  many  others 
which  have  in  addition  to  the  crinkled 
effect  a  printed  pattern  applied,  the 
variety  being  just  about  ag  large  as 
it  is  for  ordinary  dress  materials.  One 
feature   which  has  to   be  considered 


26 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


when  such  a  method  is  used  is  that 
there  is  a  large  working  loss  in  the 
cloth  yardage  treated,  and  the  amount 
received  by  the  buyer,  and  this  in- 
creases the  cloth  cost  quite  radically. 
Finishers  require  a  large  worlcing 
loss  clause  in  their  contracts,  but 
often  do  not  hold  themselves  to  the 
amount  stipulated.  Generally,  the 
actual  loss  in  yards  received  and  de- 
livered is  from  18  per  cent  to  20  per 
cent.  The  amount  an  ordinary  crepe 
fabric  will  shrink  in  width  in  the  fin- 
ishing operation  is  from  25  per  cent 
to  30  per  cent,  although  there  is  a 
wider  variation  than  this  due  to  the 
results  desired.  The  harder  the  fill- 
ing yam  is  twisted,  the  greater  the 
amount  the  fabric  will  shrink  or  crepe 
within  reasonable  limits,  but  it  is 
usually  the  case  that  the  cloth  is  not 
finished  as  narrow  as  it  actually  will 
shrink.  Naturally,  the  warp  count 
when  finished  is  radically  higher  than 
it  is  when  the  cloth  is  first  woven.  It 
is  sometimes  the  case  that  certain 
of  the  better  fabrics  are  not  merely 
shrunk  by  hot  water,  but  they  are  giv- 
en a  processing  in  caustic  soda  solu- 
tion, which  method  gives  them  an  ef- 
fect which  is  otherwise  not  obtain- 
able, for  it  makes  the  yam  softer  and 
adds  to  the  cloth  attractiveness. 

FANCY  PATTERNS, 

A  good  many  crepe  fabrics  are  made 
with  warp  which  is  entirely  silk,  and 
such  fabrics  are  often  decorated  with 
fancy  jacquard  figures  or  by  stripes 
of  various  kinds.  The  filling  used  in 
such  fabrics  is  single  hard  twist  yams, 
although  in  certain  Instances  two-ply 
filling  is  used,  and  in  the  filling  there 
can  be  either  one  direction  of  twist 
or  the  cloth  can  be  woven  on  a  box 
loom  with  regular  and  reverse  twist- 
ed yam,  possibly  the  second  method 
is  more  extensively  used  in  the  pro- 
duction of  high-class  crepes.  In  the 
making  of  patteijis  for  such  fabrics 


there  are  a  number  of  facts  to  be  con- 
sidered which  makes  the  problem 
somewhat  different  from  ordinary 
work.  In  the  first  place,  there  are 
only  a  comparatively  few  picks  per 
inch  in  the  cloth,  and  care  must  be 
used  so  that  the  patterns  will  show 
the  best  results  possible.  There  is 
also  likely  to  be  a  certain  amount  of 
stretch  in  finishing,  and  this  should 
be  considered  when  making  the  de- 
sign, for  the  cloth  is  sold  finished  to 
the  consumers,  and  not  in  the  grey 
state.    The 

LARGE    SHRINKAGE    IN    WIDTH, 

at  least,  must  be  considered,  if  the 
other  facts  are  ignored;  thus,  a  fabric 
which  counts,  say,  96  threads  when 
it  comes  from  the  loom,  may  count 
130,  or  even  more,  when  it  is  finished, 
so  that  a  pattern  wliich  is  correct  for 
the  grey  material  will  be  out  of  pro- 
portion when  the  cloth  is  finished.  For 
this  reason,  a  good  many  patterns 
have  to  be  wider  in  the  grey  cloth 
than  they  would  be  in  any  other  case, 
and  do  not  look  right,  but  when  the 
cloth  is  finished  the  correct  results 
are  shown.  This  condition  should  be 
regulated  on  the  design  paper,  which 
is  used  in  planning  the  pattern.  That 
is,  a  fabric  might  call  for  a  design 
paper  which  was  12x7  if  the  grey 
count  were  considered,  whereas  it 
vvould  actually  need  a  paper  which 
was  12x5  if  the  conditions  of  finish- 
ing be  correctly  considered.  On  cer- 
tain of  these  crepe  fabrics,  it  is  true 
that  the  shrinkage  in  count  is  not  so 
great  as  the  width  would  indicate,  for 
there  is  a  certain  waviness  in  the 
cloth  which  will  affect  the  pattern. 
Inasmuch  as  there  are  so  few  picks 
per  inch  in  tlie  woven  fabric,  care 
must  be  used  to  break  up  the  figures, 
so  that  there  will  be  no  iong  floats 
to  make  the  fabric  objectionable. 
Practically  all  fabrics  are  produced 
with  plain  weave  grounds,  so  that  the 
making  of  the  design  is  a  rather  sim- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


27 


pie  process.  As  previously  explained, 
plain  weave  is  necessary,  if  the  fabric 
is  to  have  a  sufficient  amount  of  firm- 
ness and  if  the  threads  are  to  remain 
in  their  respective  positions. 

YARNS  AND  WEIGHTS. 

The  yarns  used  in  crepe  fabrics  are 
of  widely  different  quality  and  sizes, 
because  the  range  of  fabric  quality  is 
so  great.  Some  of  the  low-priced  ma- 
terials are  made  with  yarns  which 
are  not  better  than  those  used  in  the 
most  common  materials,  and  in  such 
cases  the  yarn  production  is  large 
and  the  stock  used  not  of  especially 
high  quality.  In  other  materials,  fine 
or  rather  fine  yarns  are  used  and  the 
stock  is  of  high  quality  and  often 
combed  and  a  good  deal  of  care  is 
used  in  producing,  in  fact,  more  care 
than  is  noted  on  most  kinds  of  fancy 
fabrics.  We  present  in  another  por- 
tion of  this  description  an  analysis 
with  costs  of  one  of  the  most  com- 
mon crepes  sold,  but  following  is  an 
analysis  of  an  imported  crepe  which 
contains  dyed  yarns: 

width    of    warp    in    reed,     59%     Inches. 
Width    of   cloth    from    loom,    56    Inches. 
Width  of  cloth  finished,    44  Inches. 
Threads   per   inch,    finished,    72. 
Reed,    27    X    2. 

2  £ 

Ends  In  the  warp  —    3,2C0    —   =    3,232,    total 

8  h 

ends. 
Warp  yarn  size   40/1. 
Filling   yarn   size   30/1   hard   twist. 
Picks    per    inch    finished,    47. 
Total    warp    taks-up.    1;;%. 
Warp  weight.   .1093. 
Filling   weight,   .1110. 

Total    .veight   per   yard   finished,    .2203. 
Yaids   per   pound    finished,    4.54. 
Plain   weave. 
Warp    dressed    12    ends   white,    4    ends    black. 

The  yarns  used  would  be  made  from 
roving  of  similar  sizes  to  those  used 
for  ordinary  yarn  of  the  same  size, 
except  that  for  fine  filling  it  is  better 
to  have  roving  finer  than  the  yarn  size 
indicated  would  require,  due  to  the 
contraction  of  twist. 

A  correct  estimate  should  be  made 
of  the  losses  sustf.ined  when  obtain- 


ing the  sizes  of  the  original  grey 
yarns  used.  Take  the  fabric  for 
which  the  cost  is  given.  On  this  the 
warp  in  the  finished  cloth  actually 
sized  391^,  while  the  filling  sized  about 
2214,  whereas  36  warp  and  20  filling 
were  used.  This  shows  that  the  sizes 
are  much  finer  in  finished  fabrics  than 
many  have  been  accustomed  to  be 
lieve,  and  this  fabric  has  been  printed 
a  fact  that  is  likely  to  add  some 
weight  to  the  yam. 

THE  WARP  LOSS 
is  not  entirely  clue  to  the  bleaching, 
loss  in  size,  and  weaving  operation, 
but  a  portion  of  it  is  due  to  the  stretch 
which  is  given  the  cloth  in  finishing 
as  can  be  noted  from  thu  picks,  40 
when  the  cloth  was  in  the  grey  state 
and  37  when  it  was  finished.  Not  all 
of  this  stretch  is  actual  gain  in  yard- 
age to  the  finisher,  but,  without  doubt, 
the  extra  amount  obtained  is  at  least 
5  per  cent  or  6  per  cent.  When  ob- 
taining the  yarn  sizes  for  a  crepe  fab- 
ric which  has  been  produced  by  the 
mercerization  process,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  size  the  yam  from  the  crinkled 
portion  of  the  cloth,  for  this  is  the 
yarn  which  has  not  been  shrunk  be- 
low its  actual  size  by  the  method  of 
finishing  used.  Note  the  cloth  weights 
(5.32  in  the  grey  state  and  6.10,  or 
about  this  amount,  when  finished), 
which  fact  shows  in  a  general  way 
what  the  cloth  losses  are  when  this 
kind  of  crepe  fabric  is  being  pro- 
duced. The  method  of  obtaining  the 
weights  of  the  yam  used  and  the  cloth 
weight  when  woven   is  as  follows: 

2,388   ends   -i-    (840    X    36/1)    =   .0790,   weight 

of  warp  without  take-up. 
5%   take-up  in  weaving. 
.0790    -=-    .95    =    .083J,    total    weight   of   warp 

yarn   per  yard   of  cloth. 
40  picks  per  In.  X  44"  width  In  reed  X  36" 

36" 

1,760   yards   of   filling   per   yard   of   cloth. 
1,760   -4-    (840    X    20/1)    =   .1048,   total   weight 

of   filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 
.0832     -I-     .1048     =     .1880,     total     weight     per 

yard. 
1.0000     -f-     .1880     =     5.32     yarda    per    pound 

(grey). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

86/1  Am.   carded  warp  —     2,3(i4     —   =   2,388,   total   ends. 

6  ti 

20/1  Am.  carded  filling,  hard  twist,  40  picks. 
27  reed,  44"   tvidtti  in  reed,  41"  grey  width,  30"  finished  width. 
68   X   40  grey  count,   79   X   37  finished  count 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton.         waste,  etc. 
36/1  Am.   carded  warp,   1%"  staple,   8  hank  double,  15  "4 c.  Sc.  =   23%c. 

20/1   Am.  carded  filling,   l^a"  staple,   4.75  hank  double,        13»4c.  6 Vic  =   19%c. 

COST. 

2,388   ends  36/1   Am.   carded  warp    +    5%    take-up   =   .0832    @    23>4c =   $  .0194 

40  picks  20/1   Am.   carded  filling,   hard   twist               =   .1048    @    19 %c ^        .0205 

Weaving     .0020 

Expenses    .0038 

$  .0457 
Selling    (grey) .0018 

Mill    cost    %  .0475 

Mill  selling  price  to  converter   .0537 

Cost  01  crepemg,   bleaching  and  printing    .0300 

Cosi  of   selling,    etc .0125 

Cost  to  converter .0962 

Cost  to  jobber   .1125 

Cost  to  retailer   .1300 

Cost  to  consumer    .1800 

Yards  per  pound,    5.32    (grey). 

Yards  per  pound,    6.10   (finished). 

Plain   weave. 

■ *~»^ 


COUTIL  OR  CORSET  CLOTH 

In  preparing  the  new  edition  of  our 
"Cotton  Fabrics'  Glossary"  it  becomes 
necessary  to  consider  many  cloth 
constructions  which  had  not  appear- 
ed three  or  four  years  ago.  Improve- 
ments in  the  construction  of  cotton 
machinery  and  the  accompanying  de- 
velopment which  has  made  possible  the 
use  of  cotton  fibres  which  were  origi- 
nally considered  too  short  to  be  of 
much  value  have  led  to  entirely  new 
fabrics  and  to  new  modifications  of  old 
ones. 

One  fabric  which  is  seldom  men- 
tioned as  forming  any  great  portion 
of  textile  sales,  but  which  neverthe- 
less is  of  quite  large  importance,  is 
the  general  class  of  fabrics  known  as 
coutils.  Possibly  the  production  of 
the  above  named  material  is  as  reg- 
ular as  any  of  the  numerous  novelty 
or  special  constructions  made,  and 
while  the  weave,  count  and  yarns 
used  will  vary,  the  general  character 
of  the  cloth  does  not  change  as  much 
as  it  does  in   other  lines. 

Dress  goods  colors,  styles,  weaves 
and  cloth  constructions  will  vary  rad- 
ically in  different  years,  but,  due  to 


certain  fundamental  necessities,  cou- 
als  might  be  called  more  or  less  a 
staple  fancy  product.  Of  course, 
there  are  different  qualities  of  these 
materials  which  sell  at  various  prices, 
just  as  in  any  other  lines,  but  the  re- 
sults are  more  limited  in  such  fab- 
rics. In  general,  these  materials  are 
used  largely  in  the  white  state,  as 
there  is  great  objection  to  dyed 
goods  for  such  uses.  Then  there  must 
be  a  construction  used  which  will 
give  a  great  deal  of  strength  and 
wear. 
Most  users  of  these  fabrics  test 

THE   BREAKING   STRENGTH 

of  the  cloth  which  they  purchase,  and 
unless  deliveries  are  satisfactory  in 
this  regard  there  is  likely  to  be  a 
great  deal  of  friction  between  buyer 
and  seller,  and,  without  doubt,  this 
is  the  reason  why  a  good  many  mills 
do  not  care  to  atteir.pt  to  produce 
them.  Probably  the  lar^^t.t  portion 
of  cuutil  production  is  used  in  the 
making  of  corsets,  but  it  is  also 
utilized  in  other  ways,  su<,h  as  bands 
for  children's  garments  where  there 
is  likely  to  be  a  good  deal  of  wear 
and  tear,  and  in  other  similar  meth- 
ods,    and    recently    we    have     been 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


29 


brought  in  contact  with  a  firm  which 
claims  to  export  as  much  as  50,000 
pieces  a  year  of  a  fabric  such  as  that 
analyzed. 

It  has  been  generally  supposed  that 
very  httle  of  such  material  was  sold 
outside  of  the  domestic  market,  for 
the  price  is  high,  anj  conditions  of 
:  .akiag  are  such  that  the  labor  costs 
form  a  comparatively  large  portion  of 
the  total  cost.  The  use  which  is  made 
of  this  exported  cloth  is  one  not  usual- 
ly noted,  lor  it  is  made  into  white 
suits  of  various  kinds  whijh  receive 
a  good  deal  of  wear,  at  least  this  is 
the  use  which  the  exporters  claim  is 
m-.de  of  it.  Probably  there  are  nor 
over  half  a  dozen  manufacturers  in 
the  domestic  market  who  produce  a 
high  class  coutil  fabric  such  as  that 
analyzed. 

CLOTH    CONSTRUCTION. 

Crnsidered  as  a  fabric,  coutils  are 
not  radically  different  from  many  of 
the  ordinary  cloths  which  are  made 
and  sold  in  enormous  quantities.  It 
is  the  weight  and  strength  and  the 
difficulties  encountered  in  obtaining 
these  that  make  care  necessary.  Gen- 
erally, tlie  weave  which  is  employed 
is  a  five-harness  warp  satin,  although 
it  may  be  some  other  similar  weave. 
In  some  instances,  jacquard  or  dobby 
patterns  are  employed,  but  when  this 
is  done,  it  is  usually  with  a  satin 
ground  effect,  while  in  special  cases 
certain  constructions  are  made  with 
plain  weaves. 

The  reason  a  satin  or  a  similar 
weave  is  used  is  because,  through 
such  a  method,  a  high  cloth  count  can 
be  obtained,  also  the  requisite 
strength.  Of  course,  strength  can  be 
obtained  by  the  use  of  plain  weave 
together  with  heavy  yarn,  but  such 
cloth  would  have  no  sale  for  corsets, 
for,  in  addition  to  strength,  a  smooth, 
good  looking  cloth  is  necessary,  and 
the  use  of  a  satin  weave  answers 
both  purposes.  Whenever  a  fabric  is 
made  with  a  satin  weave  a  high  count 
is  necessary,  so  that  the  cloth  will 
be  firm,  and  t^lthough  coutils  are  high- 
count  materials  they  are  likely  to  be 
quite  heavy  in  weight.  Not  only  is 
the  warp  count  high  just  the  same 
as  it  is  in  galateas  and  similar  lines, 
but  the  filling  count  is  also  high,  al- 


though it  is  not  usually  quite  so  high 
as  it  is  in  the  warp.  Although  the 
yarns  used  are  rather  coarse  in  size, 
when  compared  with  those  used  in 
lawns  and  similar  fine  yarn  lines, 
they  are  often  made  from  combed 
stock,  and  this  fact  adds  much  to  the 
cost  of  production. 

Combed  yarns  not  only  produce  a 
better  appearing  fabric,  and  one  con- 
taining a  greater  amount  of  strength, 
but  they  also  make  the  weaving  of 
cloth  an  easier  problem  from  a  man- 
ufacturing standpoint,  for  the  warp 
breakages  are  much  fewer  in  num- 
ber. One  fact  in  weaving  such  ma- 
terials is  that  quality  is  one  of  the 
prime  necessities,  and  many  fabrics 
which  are  considered  seconds  in  such 
production  would  be  ranked  as  firsts 
were  their  conditions  of  selling  not 
so  strict.  Because  there  is  a  good 
deal  of  strength  necessary  it  is  often 
the  case  that  ply  combed  yarns  are 
used  in  making  the  cloth,  not  only  in 
the  warp  but  also  in  the  filling.  When 
this  is  done,  the  yarn  sizes  are  natu- 
rally finer  than  when  single  yarns  are 
used.  This  method  of  manufacturing 
produces  a  better  and  stronger  cloth, 
but  it  increases  the  cost  of  making 
quite  radically. 

LOOM  USED. 

So  far  as  the  weave  and  the  yarn 
used  are  concerned,  it  might  be  con- 
sidered that  automatic  looms  would 
be  suitable  for  producing  such  mate- 
rials, but  there  are  certain  other  fea- 
tures which,  up  to  the  present  time, 
have  made  it  more  or  less  necessary 
for  non-automatic  looms  to  be  used. 
One  item  is  that  the  weave  is  likely 
to  vary  quite  a  little  in  the  number 
of   harnesses   necessary   to  produce. 

Another  is  that  high  quality  pro- 
duction is  necessary,  a  condition 
which  is  not  always  true  when  auto- 
matic looms  are  used,  and  another  is 
that  the  ratio  of  saving  made  possible 
by  the  use  of  automatic  looms  is  not 
so  large  as  it  is  on  cheaper  ordinary 
fabrics.  A  saving  of  a  cent  or  more 
a  pound  is  not  of  so  great  moment 
in  a  fabric  which  sells  for  15  or  20 
cents  a  yard  as  it  is  in  a  fabric  which 
sells  for  less  than  5  cents  a  yard. 
Because  the  cloth  is  very  firm  with 
a  high  count  and  rather  coarse  yarns. 


30 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


it  is  necessary  for  it  to  be  woven  on 
a  loom  which  is  much  heavier  than 
that  used  in  producing  ordinary  fancy 
fabrics.  Unless  this  were  done,  poor 
cloth  would  result  and  the  light  loom 
would  be  knocked  to  pieces  in  a  com- 
paratively short  time. 

WOVEN  FACE  DOWN. 

In  making  satin  weave  cloths  it  is 
oftea  the  practice  to  weave  the  cloth 
face  down  in  the  loom,  as  this  makes 
it  necessary  for  the  loom  to  lift  but 
one-fifth  of  the  warp  instead  of  four- 
fifths  at  every  pick,  that  is,  if  the 
weave  happens  to  be  a  five-harness 
warp  satin.  A  good  deal  of  judgment 
nas  to  be  used  in  the  method  which 
is  employed,  for  it  is  sometimes  bet- 
ter to  weave  a  cloth  face  up,  espe- 
cially if  the  weaving  is  very  difficult. 
Inasmuch  as  the  warp  contains  a 
large  number  of  threads  of  rather 
coarse  yarn,  it  is  necessary  to  use  a 
great  deal  of  care  in  the  placing  of 
the  yarn  on  the  loom  beam. 

Any  irregularities  of  tension  or 
other  features  which  are  of  little  ac- 
count in  ordinary  fabrics  will  cause 
very  evident  streaks  and  much 
trouble  in  coutil  fabrics,  at  least  in 
the  high-class  ones.  It  is  usually  the 
custom  to  use  a  reed  in  making  these 
materials  which  corresponds  with  the 
fabric  weave  used.  That  is,  if  a  five- 
harness  weave  is  used,  the  warp  will 
be  reeded  five  threads  per  dent,  and 
if  another  weave  be  used  a  different 
arrangement  would  be  made. 

This  policy  will  result  in  less 
streaks  than  through  any  other  meth- 
od, .and  allows  a  rather  coarse  reed 
to  be  used,  a  fact  which  results  in 
more  space  being  available  for  the 
operation  of  the  heavy  warp.  The 
choosing  of  a  correct  reed  has  much 
to  do  with  the  satisfactory  production 
of  many  kinds  of  cotton  cloth.  Some 
manufacturers  are  inclined  to  always 
use  a  reed  which  permits  two  ends 
per  dent  just  because  the  lines  of 
cloth  which  they  have  regularly  pro- 
duced are  made  in  this  manner,  but 
it  often  happens  that  when  a  mill's 
cloth  constructions  vary  widely  other 
methods  are  better  on  certain  fabrics. 
Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  use  a 
coarse  reed,  because  3arn  knots 
on    heavy    material     will    not    pass 


through  without  breaking.  In  other 
cases,  a  high  warp  count  and  with  a 
reeding  of  two  in  a  dent  will  cause 
excessive  friction  and  breakage,  with 
a  low  percentage  of  loom  production. 
Then  in  certain  other  fabrics  the  use 
of  a  coarse  reed  with  quite  a  number 
of  ends  per  dent  is  often  objection- 
able, because  in  finishing  the  reed 
marks  cannot  be  entirely  taken  out. 
One  reason  why  grey  yarn  fabrics 
look  much  smoother  than  similar  yarn 
bleached,  or  dyed  materials,  is  because 
one  is  likely  to  contain  very  evident 
reed  marks  when  sold,  while  the  other 
is  not.  One  problem  which  often 
causes  a  great  deal  of  trouble  when 
coutils  are  being  produced  is  the  con- 
struction of  the  selvages.  When 
these  are  made  from  the  same  warp 
as  the  ground  of  the  fabric,  it  is  very 
likely  that  unless  the  right  number 
of  threads  per  dent  are  used  the 
edges  will  curl  up  or  will  not  appear 
smooth  like  the  body  of  the  fabric, 
and  will  cause  a  large  amount  of  crit- 
icism. 

Because  of  the  uses  of  the  fabric  be 
ing  considered  it  is  not  necessary  in 
many  instances  to  have  any  decora- 
tion applied  to  the  fabric  so  as  to 
make  it  more  attractive.  Whenever 
such  decoration  is  desired,  it  is  usu- 
ally applied  by  methods  in  the  weave 
rather  than  by  dyeing  or  printing,  but 
in  the  large  majority  of  instances  the 
cloth  is  sold  in  the  white  state  and 
with  a  comparatively  simple  weave. 
Naturally,  the  above  conditions  make 
the  operation  of  finishing  a  rather 
simple  one,  for  all  that  is  necessary 
19  to  bleach  the  cloth  and 
handle  it  in  a  similar  manner  to  that 
on  fabrics  which  are  sold  in  the  white 
state. 

Many  ordinary  fabrics  when  sold 
are  also  sized  or  starched  a  good  deal, 
and  some  of  the  cheaper  lines  aro 
filled  with  clay  or  some  similar  sub- 
stance, but  the  firmness  of  coutil  fab- 
rics makes  this  largely  unnecessary. 
Most  of  these  fabrics  have  a  some- 
what higher  count  in  the  warp  than 
they  do  in  the  filling,  for  this  makes 
possible  a  larger  loom  production  and 
a  corresponding  decrease  in  the  cost 
of  making.  The  price  of  such  mate- 
rials is  very  high  per  yard  when  com- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


81 


pared  with  others  which  have  about 
the  same  weight,  but  this  is  caused 
by  the  use  of  combed  stock,  the  large 
number  of  threads  and  piclcs  per  inch 
and  the  rather  small  loom  production. 
It  is  also  true  that  the  cost  is  high, 
because  more  care  is  necessary  in 
weaving,  and  fewer  looms  can  be  op- 
erated per  weaver  than  on  the  simi- 
lar weight  ordinary  fabrics.  The  cost 
of  finishing  will  depend  a  good  deal 
on  the  conditions  governing  the  fab- 
ric, that  is,  a  small  order  may  have 
a  high  cost,  while  a  larger  one  will 
be  lower.  There  is  this  advantage, 
however,  in  coutils  in  that  the  order 
is  usually  finished  entirely  in  the  same 
method,  there  being  no  different  col- 
ors or  printed  patterns.  In  general, 
the  price  is  somewhat  similar  to  what 
it  is  on  other  fancy  white  goods  which 
are  only  bleached. 

As  previously  stated,  the  yarns 
used,  when  single,  are  quite  coarse  in 
size,  but  they  are  often  combed,  and 
so  manufacturing  processes  are  some- 
what different  from  those  usually  not- 
ed, coutil  cloths  are  made  largely  by 
fancy  mills,  ones  which  have  an  equip- 
ment capable  of  producing  a  wide 
range  of  fabrics,  and  so  the  yarn  prob- 
lem is  not  an  especially  difficult  one. 
Naturally,  when  combed  yams  for 
cloth  are  being  produced  it  is  likely 
that  the  staple  will  be  as  short 
as  can  be  conveniently  handled  on  a 
comber,  and  in  most  mills  one  and 
one-eighth  inches  is  the  shortest  fibre 
which  can  be  combed.  Because  the 
roving  necessary  is  so  coarse,  it  is 
customary  to  use  shorter  drafts  than 
when  ordinary  yarn  is  being  made, 
for  this  aids  in  making  a  better  yarn. 
For  the  two  yams  used  in  Fabric  No. 
I  the  layout  would  be  somewhat  as 
follows: 

30/1   warp. 
.2778   grains    =    1    yard. 

.98   2%    contraction   In   twisting. 


24/1   filling. 
.3472  grains    =    1   yard. 

.98   2%    contraction    in    twisting. 


.2722 

9.5   spinning    frame    d.'aft. 


2.58   -T-    2   =   1.29    =   6.46   hank  roving. 
6.25   fine    frame   draft. 


8.06   -H    2    =   4.03    =    2.06   hank  roving. 
5.25  intermediate    frame   draft. 


.3403 
7.58   spinning  frame  draft. 


2.58    -^   2    =    1.29    =    6.46   hank  roving. 
6.25   fine    frame    draft. 


8.06   -J-   2   =   4.03   =   2.06  hank  roving. 
5.25  intermediate   frame   draft. 


21.16   -^   2   =   10.58   =  .79  hank  roving. 
4.25  slubber   frame   draft. 


21.16   -H   2   =   10.58   =   .79  hank  roving. 
4.25  slubber   frame   draft. 

4S  grs.   finisher  drawing  sliver. 


45    grs.    finisher   drawing  sliver. 

It  will  be  noted  that  we  have  plan- 
ned the  drafts  for  warp  and  filling 
so  that  both  can  be  made  from  the 
same  size  of  fine  roving,  and  while 
this  policy  makes  the  spinning  draft 
for  filling  somewhat  shorter  than  it 
otherwise  would  be,  it  probably  is  a 
good  plan  to  adopt  such  a  method. 
The  spinning  drafts  for  both  warp  and 
filling  can  be  increased  somewhat, 
and  the  roving  draft  decreased  to  cor- 
respond, with  very  little  difference  in 
the  quality  of  the  yarn  produced.  In 
some  cases,  it  is  not  possible  to  make 
warp  and  filling  from  the  same  size 
of  roving  because  different  stock  may 
be  used  for  the  various  yarns,  and 
the  sizes  may  vary  so  widely  that 
either  yarn  may  show  some  excessive 
draft,  a  condition  which  is  not  de- 
sirable for  practically  all  kinds  of 
yarn  making.  Machinery  organiza- 
tions and  mill  working  conditions 
often  make  it  inadvisable  to  change 
certain  yarn  schedules  which 
in  other  instances  would  be  more 
desirable,  and  there  is  no  defi- 
nite set  rule  as  to  Just  the  exact 
means  for  producing  the  best  results 
on  any  single  yarn. 

The  method  of  obtaining  the  yarn 
weights  and  the  yards  per  pound  of 
the  woven  cloth  Is  a  very  simple  proc- 
ess, because  there  are  no  stripes 
used  or  complicated  methods  of  mak- 
ing, neither  is  there  any  great  change 
from  grey  to  finished  materials,  a  fact 
which  is  not  noted  on  a  good  many 
of  the  ordinary  fabrics.  Following 
are  two  layouts  for  radically  different 
coutils,  one  made  from  single  yams 
and  the  other  from  ply  yams: 


18 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


FABRIC   NO.    1. 
Width  of  warp   In   reed,    30 "^    inches. 
Width    of   cloth    grey,    28    inches. 
Width    of   clJth    finished,    26%    Inches. 
Ends   per   Inch   finished,    148. 
Reed  26    X    5. 

Ends    In    the    warp,    3.964    total. 
Warp  yarn   30.5/1. 
Filling   yarn   24/1. 
Picks    per    inch,    96. 
Warp  take-up,   9%. 
Warp   weight    per    yard,    .1700. 
Filling  weight  per  yard,   .1453. 
Total   weight   per  yard,    .3153. 
Yards   per   pound   grey,    3.17. 
Five    harness    warp    &atin    weave    used. 

FABRIC    NO     2. 
Width    of    warp    In    reed,    30    Inches. 
Width    of   cloth    grey,    28    Incl-es. 
Wlcth  of  cloth   finished,    27   inches. 
Ends  per   inch    finished,    145. 
Reed  26    X    5. 

Ends   In   tne    warp,    3,936    total. 
Warp   yarn,    70/2. 
Filling  yarn.   70/3. 
Picks   per   Inch.    92. 
Warp  take-up.    10% 
Warp  weight  per  yaid,  .14^8. 
Filling  weight  per  yard,   .1408. 
Total  weight  per  yard,  .2896. 
Yards   per   pound   grey,    3.45. 
Five    harness    warp    satin    weave    used. 

The  cost  of  iLaking  the  second  fab- 
ric given  is  much  higher  than  for  the 
first  one,  mainly  because  the  yarns 
are  much  finer  in  size  when  spun,  and 
this  requires  a  longer  and  higher  pric- 
ed cotton,  and  a  good  deal  higher  la- 
bor cost  and  expense  in  spinning,  and 
In  addition,  there  is  the  charge  for 
twisting  and  the  extra  cost  of  han- 
dling, especially  on  the  price  of  fill- 
ing, a  cost  which  would  not  be  not- 
ed at  all  if  single  filling  had  been 
used.  So  far  as  the  weaving  cost  item 
is  concerned,  the  difference  in  the 
two  fabrics  is  not  very  wide.  The 
method  of  obtaining  thi  yam  and 
cloth  weight  for  Fabric  No.  1  is  as 
follows: 

3.694     ends     -t-     (30%/l     X      840)     =     .1547, 

weight    of    warp    without    take-up. 
9%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.1547    -4-    .91    =    .1700,    total   weight   of   warp 

per  yard  of  cloth. 
96  picks  X  30%"  reed  width  X  36" 

=      2,928 

36" 

yards  of   filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 
2,928   ^    (24/1    X    840)    =   .1453,   total  weight 

of   filling   per   yard   of   cloth. 
.1700  -f  .1453  =  .3153,  total  weight  per  yard. 
1.0000     -*-     .3153     =     3.17     yards     per    pound 

(grey). 

^-t-* 

CREPE  DE  CHINE 

One  fabric  which  has  had  a  more  or 
less  regular  sale  but  which  has  of 
late  been  of  especial  interest  to  man- 


ufacturers and  sellers  is  crepe  de 
chine.  Naturally,  when  this  fabric  is 
mentioned  an  all-silk  material  is 
brought  to  mind,  but  there  are  also 
cotton  and  silk,  mixed  fabrics  which 
bear  this  name,  and  at  certain  times, 
even  all-cotton  fabrics  have  been  so 
designated,  by  the  retailer  at  least. 
Inasmuch  as  these  fabrics  hold  such  a 
large  place  in  regular  distribution  a 
few  facts  regarding  their  appearance, 
construction  and  method  of  making 
may  be  of  interest.  All  the  materi- 
als which  are  known  as  crepe  de 
chines  have  a  comparatively  light 
weight,  and  are  clinging  fabrics  which 
are  very  desirable  when  soft  effects 
are  in   style. 

These  fabrics  are  used  extensively 
for  "resses,  waists,  trimmings,  over- 
dresses and  similar  purposes  where 
practically  no  other  cloth  fills  the  pur- 
pose so  well.  Prices  for  making  are 
likely  to  vary  quite  widely,  due  to  con- 
ditions in  the  market  for  materials 
and  largely  due  to  the  demand  for  the 
goods.  Generally,  the  prices  for  most 
of  the  all-silk  fabrics  at  retail  vill  be 
from  $1  to  $1.50  per  yard,  although 
these  prices  in  no  way  expiess  the 
possible  variation. 

SILK    AND    COTTON    MIXTURES. 

The  silk  and  cotton  mixtures  will 
also  vary  according  to  their  construc- 
tion and  the  market  selling  conditions, 
but  usually  the  price  will  be  from 
25  to  50  cents  a  yard  for  ordinary  ma- 
terials. The  price  for  all-cotton  fab- 
rics is  largely  dependent  upon  the 
stripes  or  otlie  -  decorative  cloth  fea- 
tures, of  which  there  are  many.  More 
often  the  all-cotton  cloth  is  not  called 
crepe  de  chine,  but  is  simply  desig- 
nated as  crepe,  which  is  a  much  bet- 
ter name  to  use,  as  it  more  definitely 
expresses  to  consumers  and  others 
the  materials  from  which  it  is  made. 
The  name  crepe  de  chine  has,  how- 
ever, come  to  be  more  or  less  a  term 
which  designates  a  method  of  con- 
structing a  c^oth  rather  than  the  ma- 
terials of  which  it  is  made,  for  we 
have  quite  often  seen  all-silk  crepe 
de  chine  which  could  hardly  be  dis- 
tinguished from  some  of  the  higher 
classes  of  cotton  crepe,  at  least  by  a 
good  many  consumers. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


33 


In  all-silk  fabrics,  the  cloth  con- 
struction will  vary  widely.  Some  of 
the  warps  are  drawn  in  two-ply,  that 
is,  two  threads  work  as  one  in  the 
weaving  operation,  while  others 
are  drawn  in  single.  One  fab- 
ric which  has  been  analyzed  has  a 
finished  warp  count  of  280,  w'ith  two 
threads  used  as  one,  thus  making  the 
warp  count  appear  like  140  in  the 
cloth,  with  94  picks  per  inch,  an- 
other has  a  warp  count  of  220,  with 
the  threads  drawn  singly  and  with  80 
picks  per  inch,  and  still  another  has  a 
warp  count  of  125  threads  and  with 
76  picks.  The  number  of  the  threads 
and  picks  per  inch  affects  the  result 
when  finished  somewhat,  for  if  a 
count  which  is  too  high  is  used  the 
fabric  will  not  have  the  soft  effect 
which  is  so  desirable.  This  does  not 
mean,  however,  that  a  low  construc- 
tion is  entirely  suitable.  In  practical- 
ly all  of  these  fabrics  the  lustre  is 
imparted  by  the  w^arp  yarns.  For  this 
reason,  the  warp  is  likely  to  be  of 
better  silk  than  the  filling,  and  not 
only  better  but  also  of  finer  size  and 
of  a  higher  number  of  threads  per 
inch.  The  reason  w^hy  the  warp  gives 
the  cloth  lustre  is  as  follows: 

To  make  the  soft  and  crepy  effect 
the  filling  yarn  both  in  the  all-silk 
and  in  the  silk-mixture  fabrics  is 
twisted  harder  than  for  ordinary 
cloth.  The  hard  tw^isting  of  any  yarn 
will  so  curl  up  the  fibres  that  they 
will  not  lie  parallel  an-d  so  will  not 
reflect  light  and  give  lustre.  It  is 
In  the  yarn  which  is  twisted  the  least 
that  the  greatest  sheen  appears,  and 
so  w'hen  the  filling  is  hard  twisted 
the  opportunity  for  lustre  from  it  is 
either  partially  or  wholly  destroyed. 
The  filling  is  hard  twisted  rather  than 
the  warp,  because  this  is  the  most 
economical   method   of  making. 

Hard-twisted  warp  would  be  the 
cause  of  untold  trouble,  for  it  would 
make  the  percentage  of  production  in 
weaving  very  low,  create  many  sec- 
onds, and  when  the  cloth  was  finished 
would  entail  a  r  idical  loss  in  yardage, 
thereby  increasing  the  cost  of  making. 
Filling  yarn  has  to  be  handled  much 
less  than  warp,  and  for  this  reason, 
it  is  more  economical  to  make  hard- 
twist  filling  than  it  is  warp. 


In  all  varieties  of  crepe  fabrics 
there  are  two  kinds  of  effects  which 
can  be  produced  with  practically  no 
"change  in  the  sizes  of  yarns  used  or 
in  the  method  of  construction,  and 
which  are  easily  distinguished  even 
by  the  ordinary  consumer.  These 
are  first  the  ordinary  crepe  de  chine 
cloth,  and  second,  the  ones  often  des- 
ignated as  crinkle  crepes.  The  stand- 
ard of  twist  or  the  turns  per  inch  in 
tLe  fillings  of  these  two  fabrics  are 
often  identical,  and  the  warp  counts 
often  the  same,  but  the  differences 
are  produced  by  the  direction  of  twist 
which  is  inserted  in  the  yarn. 

A  crinkle  crepe  has  filling  in  which 
only  one  twist  has  been  applied,  and 
it  matters  very  little  which  direction 
of  twist  is  used  so  long  as  it  is  all  in 
the  same  direction.  Crepe  de  chines 
are  woven  with  filling  which  has  two 
kinds  of  twist,  regular  and  reverse. 
This  fact  makes  it  necessary  that  the 
cloth  be  produced  on  a  box  loom 
which  can  insert  first  one  or  more 
picks  of  yarn  twisted  in  one  direction 
and  then  insert  yarn  twis^^d  in  the 
opposite  direction.  In  the  large  ma- 
jority of  instances  when  two  direc- 
tions of  twist  are  used  the  filling  is 
placed  in  the  cloth  two  picks  in  one 
direction  and  two  picks  of  filling 
twisted  in  the  opposite  direction. 

These  two  twnsts  react  against  each 
other,  thus  making  the  regular  crepy 
appearance  in  crepe  de  chine,  whereas 
when  but  one  direction  of  twist  is  used 
the  filling  all  twists  in  the  same  di- 
rection, making  waves,  or  the  so-call- 
ed crinkle  crepe  effect.  Because  the 
filling  is  hard  twisted  and  more  or 
less  irregular  in  appearance,  it  is 
often  the  case  that  schappe  filling  is 
used  so  as  to  make  a  lower  cost  of 
production,  and  it  is  also  a  customary 
proceeding  to  use  a  hard-twist  Can- 
ton silk  for  filling,  whereas  in  the 
warp  organzine  silk   is   used. 

It  is  just  as  important  in  manufac- 
turing crepes  of  any  kind  not  to  get 
the  amount  of  twist  excessive  as  it 
is  not  to  get  the  twist  high  enough, 
for  too  much  twist  will  cause  exces- 
sive irregularities  and  add  apprecia- 
tively to  the  cost  of  producing,  and 
besides  will  cause  excessive  shrink- 
age in  the  cloth  width.     One  feature 


34 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


regarding  crepe  fabrics  is  that  the 
width  of  the  cloth  as  it  comes  from 
the  loom  is  much  wider  than  it  is 
when  finished.  That  is,  an  all-silk  fab- 
ric may  be  from  15  to  20  per  cent 
narrower  when  finished  than  when 
woven,  while  a  silk  and  cotton  mixed 
fabric  may  have  a  little  greater 
shrinkage,  or  from  20  to  25  per  cent. 
These  foregoing  figures  are  only  gen- 
eral ones,  and  special  instances  may 
be  noted  where  they  are  exceeded, 
but  they  apply  to  very  many  crepe  de 
chines  and  also  to  similar  crinkle 
crepe  fabrics. 

YARNS. 

As  stated  previously,  the  kind  of 
yarns  used  and  the  amount  of  twist 
inserted  is  largely  dependent  on  the 
cloth  results  which  are  desired  and 
the  price  at  which  the  cloth  can  be 
sol-d.  A  fact  which  enters  into  the 
cost  of  making  crepe  fabrics,  but 
which  is  not  always  considered  as 
carefully  as  it  might  be,  is  the  con- 
traction in  the  filling  yarn,  due  to  the 
hard  twisting  operation.  This  process 
makes  silk  yarn  heavier  in  size,  and, 
therefore,  have  a  smaller  yardage 
per  pound,  and  this  naturally  in- 
creases the  cost  of  the  cloth  in  which 
such  yarn  is  used. 

The  harder  the  yarn  is  twisted  the 
greater  the  contraction  is  likely  to  be. 
Accurate  tests  should  be  made  on  the 
yarn  previous  to  the  weaving  opera- 
tion, so  as  to  obtain  as  near  as  pos- 
sible the  average  yardage  in  the  fill- 
ing yarn.  When  silk  mixture  mate- 
rials are  being  made,  the  filling  is  usu- 
ally, although  not  always,  combed 
yarn.  Inasmuch  as  cotton  yarn  is 
much  heavier  in  size  than  silk,  the 
variation  due  to  the  contraction  in 
twisting  is  somewhat  more  evident, 
but  because  the  cotton  cost  in  such 
cloth  is  a  comparatively  small  pro- 
portion of  the  trtal  cost,  the  variation 
does  not  greatly  affect  results,  yet  in 
any  accurate  estimates,  the  shrink- 
age should  al  .  ays  be  considered. 
Some  cotton  manufacturers  regulate 
their  roving  weights  and  drafts  so  as 
to  have  their  finished  yarn  the  exact 
size  desired,  while  others  take  a  dif- 
ferent policy  ard  use  regular  roving 
sizes,  allowing  the  yarn  to  contract, 
and  then  to  use  for  figures  the  yarn 


size  which  is  actually  obtained  by 
weighing. 

With  silk  yarn  the  problem  is  one 
very  similar  to  that  in  these  last- 
named  cotton  mills,  where  an  allow- 
ance in  size  is  made  for  the  shrinkage 
due  to  the  twist.  The  hard  twisting 
of  yarn  also  affects  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion, because  the  amount  produced  is 
smaller  than  it  would  be  under  nor- 
mal conditions.  On  silk  yarns  the 
percentage  of  increase  on  the  total 
cost  is  not  so  feieat  as  for  cotton 
yarns,  because  the  origi-iil  silk  cost 
forms  such  a  large  proportion  of  the 
cost  of  silk  yarn.  For  a  filling  of  40s-l 
the  cost  of  spinning  or  hard  twisting, 
including  all  the  various  items,  would 
be  from  12^^  to  15  cents  per  pound, 
or  about  twice  as  high  as  it  is  for 
ordinary  warp  yarn  of  the  same  size. 

The  standard  of  twist  which  is  ap- 
plied for  cotton  yarn  for  use  in  crepes 
is  likely  to  be  about  seven  and  a  half 
to  eight  times  the  square  root  of  the 
yarn  number,  but  there  are  cases 
where  the  standard  is  as  low  as  six 
and  as  high  as  ten,  or  even  higher, 
although  the  excessive  twist  does  not 
seem  to  be  of  any  great  advantage  in 
producing  a  better  cloth  effect.  A 
greater  amount  of  twist  increases 
the  cost  of  making  and  weakens  the 
yam,  because,  as  the  standard  of 
twist  advances  over  4h  to  43,  the 
breaking  strength  of  a  yarn  will  de- 
crease. Hard-twisted  cotton  yam  is 
also  likely  to  cause  a  good  deal  of 
trouble  in  the  spin:  ing  room,  because 
the  yarn  acts  more  or  less  as  a  saw, 
and  will  cut  through  the  travelers  so 
that  they  will  have  to  be  renewed 
quite  frequently. 

TYPICAL  ANALYSES. 

One  silk  fabric  which  is  an  at- 
tractive material  is  actually  construct- 
ed as  follows  in  the  finished  state: 

Cloth    width    finished    40". 
Warp    count    280    threads    per    inch. 
Warp   drawn   double. 
Filling    count    94    picks    per    inch. 
Warp    size    128,500    yards    per    pound. 
Filling    size    138,800    yards    per    pound. 
Warp    probably    2    thread    13/15    organzlne. 
Filling   probably    26/28   Canton    (hard   twist). 
Threads   in   the   warp    11,296. 
Weaving    take-up    3%. 
Width    in    reed    about    48". 
Warp    weight    finished    .0906. 
Filling   weight  finished  .0325. 
Yards   per   pound    finished    8.12. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


35 


It  is  a  weil-known  fact  that  silk 
j-arn  when  first  purchased  contains  a 
varying  amount  of  gum  wliich  holds 
the  fibres  together  and  which  \z  not 
apparent  on  examination  Wnen  boil- 
ed out,  all  or  nearly  all  of  this  gum 
will  disappear,  leaving  the  yarn  light- 
er in  weight  than  it  was  when  pur- 
chased. To  make  silk  fabrics  heavier 
and  to  appear  better  it  is  a  customary 
proceeding  to  add  weight  when  yarns 
or  cloths  are  dyed,  so  as  to  more  than 
offset  this  loss  in  gum,  in  some  cases 
enough  weight  being  added  to  render 
the  service  of  the  cloth  rather  short. 
In  the  sample  analyzed    the    amount 


In  the  foregoing  analysis  the  warp 
yar-dage  has  been  assumed  as  185,000 
yards  per  pound,  and  this  figure  is 
somewhat  coarser  than  the  yarn  fig- 
ures would  indicate,  but  it  is  done  as 
a  protection  for  variation  in  silk  size, 
and  is  a  customary  proceeding  when 
cotton  mills  are  making  silk  mixture 
fabrics.  One  fact  of  interest  is  that 
the  yarn  size  and  the  weight  of  silk 
in  cotton  mixture  fabrics  are  usually 
quite  a  little  lighter  than  when  wov- 
en, for  the  silk  gum  has  been  removed 
and  no  large  amount  of  weight  added 
to  make  up  for  this  loss.  On  entire 
silk  goods   the   difference   is   that  the 


One   of  the   New  Crepe   de   Chine   Fab."ics. 


of  weighting  added  accounts  for  the 
difference  between  the  silk  yardage  in 
the  cloth  and  that  which  the  yarn  size 
used  would  indicate  when  the  yam 
was  first  purchased. 

COTTON   AND   SILK   MIXTURE   GOODS. 

Cloth    width    finished    27". 
Cloth    width    grey    36". 
Warp   count   grey    97    threads   per   inch. 
Warp    count    finished    129    threads    per    Inch. 
Filling   count    grey    08    picks    per    inch. 
Filing    count    finished    66    picks    per    inch. 
Warp    size    185.000    yards    per    pound. 
Warp  size   22/24   Italian   silk. 
Filling    size    40/1    hard    twist    cotton. 
Threads    in     the     warp     3.500. 
Take-up    in    weaving    107c. 
Reed    width    37". 
Warp    w^eight    grey    .0210. 
Filling    weight   grey   .0749. 
Yards    per    pound    grey    10.43. 


yarn  and  cloth  is  usually  heavier  in 
the  '^nished  state,  tor  weight  has  been 
added  to  more  than  make  up  for  the 
loss  of  the  gum. 

FINISHING  RESULTS. 
In  general,  it  can  be  said  that  most 
all  crepe  de  chines  and  crinkle  crepes 
of  the  class  described  are  piece-dyed 
fabrics,  not  only  when  composed  en- 
tirely of  silk  but  also  when  partially 
made  of  cotton.  Probably  a  much 
larger  proportion  of  crepe  materials  is 
made  in  the  crepe  de  chine  method 
than  in  the  crinkle  effect,  and 
plain  weave  is  employed  in  a  large 
number  of  the  fabrics.  This  does 
not  mean  that  fancy  weaves  are  not 


36 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


used  in  quite  a  good  many  of  such 
materials,  for  they  are,  and  with  an 
additional  attractiveness  in  the  result 
obtained.  Both  dubby  and  jacquard 
effects  are  used,  although  care  has 
to  be  exercised  so  that  in  the  result 
finished  the  proportion  of  the  figures 
will  be  correct. 

In  a  good  many  fabrics,   especially 
those  made  partially  from   cottons, 

SILK  STRIPES 
are  introduced  with  advantage,  and 
often  make  possible  a  better  mill  div- 
idend. Because  the  filling  is  hard 
twisted,  it  is  the  usual  custom  to 
make  ail  woven  hgures  from  the  warp 
yarn,  as  this  portion  of  the  cloth  is 
lustrous  and  produces  a  contrasting 
effect  when  compared  with  the  ground 
fabric.  The  method  of  obtaining  the 
yarn  and  cloth  weights  in  a  mixed  ma- 
terial is  as  follows. 

3,500     threads     -h     185, OOQ     yards     =     .0189. 

warp  weight  without   cake-up. 
10%   take-up  in  weaving. 
_01S9    -H    .90    =    .0210,    total    weight    of    warp 

yarn   per  yard   of   cloth. 
68  picks  X  37"  reed  width  X  36" 

. ^ =    2,516   yds. 

36" 

of   filling   per   yard   of   cloth. 
2,516   -^    (40/1    X    840)    =   .0749,    total   weight 

'  of    lining    per    yard. 
.0210     +     .0749     =     .0959,     total     weight     per 

yard. 
1  0000     H-     .0959    —     10.43    yards    per    pound 

(grey). 


. *~»^ — 

COTTON  MARQUISETTE 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  fab- 
rics which  have  one  name  to  the  con- 
sumers and  that  are  known  by  some 
other  term  to  the  manufacturers.  This 
is  largely  because  one  of  the  parties 
considers  the  fabric  weave,  and  the 
other  the  trade  names.  Marquisettes 
are  one  of  such  fabrics,  for  they  are 
usually  designated  as  plain  gauze  by 
the  manufacturer.  Gauze,  considered 
as  a  manufacturing  term,  is  the  weave 
which  is  applied  to  the  cloth,  and  does 
not  have  any  reference  at  all  to  the 
material  used  or  the  construction  of 
the  fabric.  In  a  general  way  this  class 
of  fabric  does  not  have  so  large  a 
use  as  many  of  the  ordinary  cloths, 
but  at  certain  times,  <here  is 
quite  a  demand  with  an  additional 
regular     sale.       A     few    years     ago 


the  demand  was  quite  extensive,  and 
at  present,  there  are  more  of  such 
cloths  being  offered,  so  that  an  analy- 
sis with  a  short  description  may  be  of 
interest. 

These  materials  are  used  largely 
for  overdresses  and  similar  purposes, 
and  while  their  use  is  likely  to  make 
a  garment  somewhat  more  expensive, 
it  often  does  produce  more  attractive 
results,  although  the  prevailing  styles 
of  garments  have  much  to  do  with 
the  amount  of  attractiveness  impart- 
ed. Probably  most  of  such  cloth  is 
made  entirely  from  silk  yarn,  but 
there  is  also  quite  a  quantity  manu- 
factured from  cotton  and  silk  in  com- 
bination, while  many  fabrics  are  com- 
posed  entirely  of  cotton. 

MAIN  IDEA. 

The  main  idea  in  constructing  a 
marquisette  fabric  is  to  have  a  very 
open  material,  but  one  in  which  the 
threads  do  not  slip  to  any  great  ex- 
tent. Even  when  the  fabric  is  made 
wholly  of  silk  there  is  no  great  effort 
made  to  impart  a  lustrous  finish,  be- 
cause this  is  not  especially  desirable 
nor  possible,  as  the  threads  twist  so 
much.  Because  the  texture  of  the 
cloth  is  so  low  and  the  yarns  used  are 
so  fine,  it  is  necessary  to  employ  a 
weave  which  appears  radically  differ- 
ent from  that  noted  on  all  ordinary 
fabrics.  This  weave  is  generally 
known  as  gauze  by  fabric  makers, 
and  Is  the  simplest  leno  weave  used. 

Naturally,  one  of  these  fabrics  made 
entirely  from  cotton  does  not  com- 
pare in  effect  or  sell  at  as  high  a  price 
as  most  of  the  all-silk  or  even  the 
mixture  fabrics,  but,  nevertheless,  the 
improvement  in  finishing  methods  has 
made  it  possible  to  make  cotton  fab- 
rics of  this  character  very  attractive 
and  much  more  desirable  than  they 
formerly  were.  Only  a  short  time 
ago  most  open-work  fabrics  woven 
with  a  gauze  weave  were  merely  dyed 
solid  colors  when  they  were  woven, 
but  to-day  these  cloths  contain  vari- 
ous printed  patterns  and  colors,  and 
also  form  the  groundwork  for  addi- 
tional woven  effects,  which  are  sold 
in  quite  large  quantities  and  are 
very  attractive.  There  are  other  fin- 
ishing processes  employed  which  give 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


37 


quite  satisfactory  results  in  addition 
vO  the  printing  process.  Some  of  the 
results  obtained  are  desirable  for  the 
reason  that  they  can  be  obtained  in 
no  other  manufacturing  method,  and 
when  in  style  quite  large  profits  are 
secured  from  their  manufacture. 

The  weave  used  in  the  ordinary 
marquisette  is  called  plain  gauze,  a 
method  by  which  one  thread  twists 
around  another,  first  to  one  side  and 
then  to  the  other,  this  thread  usually 
called  the  ground  thread.  The  thread 
which  twists  around  the  ground 
thread  is  usually  known  as  the  cross- 
ing or  douping  thread,  and  is  the  one 


the  fact  that  between  each  pick  it 
crosses  to  the  opposite  side  of  the 
ground  thread.  Different  methods  are 
used  in  producing  cloth  of  this  char- 
acter. Probably  the  method  used  most 
extensively  is  the  ordinary  leno  mo- 
tion, which  we  will  describe  later  in 
a  little  more  detail. 

Then  there  is  a  method  which  is 
often  tried  wherein  a  specially  con- 
structed reed  is  used  which  forces 
the  crossing  thread  first  to  one  and 
then  to  the  other  side  of  the  ground 
thread  through  a  lateral  motion. 
Then  there  are  a  number  of  varieties 
of   special    heddles    which   have   been 


Cotton   Marquisette. 


which  is  ordinarily  forced  into  a 
twisted  position  by  the  weave,  but  in 
the  cloth  analyzed,  the  warp,  both 
ground  and  crossing,  threads  are  of 
the  same  size,  and  for  this  reason,  the 
twisted  effect  produced  is  noted  on 
both.  Inasmuch  as  the  threads  twist 
around  each  other  they  bind  in  the 
filling  much  more  firmly  than  in  or- 
dinary cloths  and  prevent  any  great 
amount  of  slipping.  The  result  pro- 
duced by  the  twisting  of  the  threads 
should  be  clearly  seen  from  the  illus- 
tration which  we  have  presented.  It 
will  be  noticed  that  the  ground  thread 
on  the  cloth  considered  is  never  lift- 
ed, while  the  crossing  thread  is  raised 
at  every  pick,  being  held  in  place  by 


developed  for  producing  leno  work 
and  which  are  used  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent. While  these  methods  all  appear 
somewhat  different  from  the  ordinary 
processes,  the  results  produced  are 
identical,  for  the  principle  is  the  same. 
In  our  illustration  we  have  given  four 
picks  of  the  cloth,  separated  so  that 
they  can  be  easily  distinguished,  and 
the  weave  by  which  they  were  pro- 
duced. 

Naturally,  a  special  weave  such  as 
that  considered  has  to  be  made  in  a 
different  manner  than  that  ordinarily 
noted.  In  the  first  place,  it  will  be 
seen  that  two  heavy  lines  have  been 
drawn  close  together  at  the  bottom 
of  the  illustration.     The  first  one  of 


38 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


these  lines  represents  a  harness 
which  contains  no  heddles  at  all,  and 
which  is  generally  called  the  doup  or 
slip  harness.  The  second  line  which 
we  have  drawn  represents  a  second 
harness,  which  is  generally  called  the 
standard  harness.  On  this  standard 
harness  are  placed  heddles  of  various 
kinds,  that  is,  so  far  as  their  make- 
up is  concerned,  although  they  act 
similarly.  On  the  bottom  of  the  first 
or  doup  harness  are  tied  loops  of  yarn 
which  pass  up  and  through  the  eye 
in  the  second  or  standard  harness, 
sometimes  being  held  in  place  by  the 
warp  threads  when  drawn  in,  but  in 
most  cases  being  held  in  place  by 
passing  through  a  double  heddle  eye. 
The  remaining  two  harnesses  are  ex- 
actly the  same  as  are  used  in  making 
ordinary  cloth.  The  fifth  heavy  line 
which  we  have  drawn  does  not  repre- 
sent a  harness,  but  is  a  slackener  rod, 
which  is  necessary  for  successful 
loom  operation,  because  when  the 
threads  are  in  a  crossed  position  there 
is  an  undue  strain  on  the  yarn  which 
may  cause  excessive  breakage  unless 
relieved.  The  crossing  threads  are 
all  held  up  by  this  rod  and  let  off 
when  the  threads  take  a  crossed  posi- 
tion, being  pulled  up  again  when  the 
threads  are  reversed. 

The  warp  is  drawn  in  as  follows: 
All  the  threads  are  first  drawn  in  on 
the  two  harnesses  which  are  marked 
"ground"  just  as  if  plain  weave  cloth 
were  to  be  produced,  that  is,  one 
thread  is  drawn  on  one  harness,  the 
next  on  a  following  one,  and  the  op- 
eration continued  until  the  whole 
warp  has  been  drawn  in.  When  this 
has  been  done,  the  crossing  thread  is 
taken  and  crossed  over  or  under  the 
ground  thread,  as  the  case  may  be, 
and  then  drawn  into  the  loop  of  the 
doup  which  passes  through  the  eye 
in  the  second  or  standard  harness. 
This  operation  is  done  for  each  cross- 
ing thread,  and  when  completed  the 
whole  warp  is  drawn  through  the 
r^ed.  It  should  be  understood  that 
the  crossing  and  ground  threads 
which  operate  together  must  be  reed- 
ed in  the  same  dent  or  a  crossing  will 
not  take  place.  The  slackener  rod  is 
usually  adjusted  after  the  warp  is 
drawn  in  and  placed  in  the  loom- 


By  referring  to  the  illustration  the 
method  of  drawing  in  should  be  very 
clear,  the  white  spaces  showing  the 
harness  on  which  the  threads  are 
drawn.  One  item  which  is  important 
is  that  when  the  standard  harness  is 
raised  the  doup  harness  must  also  be 
raised,  because  the  loops  pass 
through  the  heddle  eyes  of  this  har- 
ness, and  if  it  were  not  done,  the 
doups  would  soon  wear  out.  Usually, 
an  arrangement  is  made  whereby  this 
is  done  without  considering  it  in  the 
design,  but  we  have  treated  each  har- 
ness separately,  so  as  to  make  the 
method  more  evident.  If  the  stand- 
ard and  doup  harness  be  lifted  it  will 
be  noted  that  the  crossing  thread 
will  be  on  the  right  side  of  the 
ground  thread.  This  crosses  the  two 
threads,  so  that  the  slackener  must  be 
operated  to  let  off  a  few  inches  of 
yarn  and  lessen  the  strain.  This  is 
for  the  pick  which  is  marked  No.  1. 

On  the  second  pick  the  ground  har- 
npss  which  contains  the  crossing 
thread  is  raised,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  the  first  or  doup  harness  Is 
raised.  The  lifting  of  the  ground  har- 
ness causes  the  doup  to  slip  through 
the  eye  of  the  standard  harness  and 
around  the  ground  thread,  thus  bring- 
ing the  crossing  thread  to  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  ground  thread  from 
that  noted  when  pick  No.  1  was  in 
serted.  The  following  picks  are  a 
repetition  of  these  first  two  described. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  ground 
thread  harness  is  never  raised,  while 
the  crossing  thread  is  actually  lifted 
every  pick,  but,  due  to  the  crossing  of 
the  threads,  it  is  bound  in  tightly. 
Practical  working  conditions  make  It 
necessary  for  loom  changes  to  be 
made  so  that  an  o.pen  she  J  dobby  will 
work  satisfactorily,  but  the  principle 
of  the  weave  is  no  different  from  that 
described.  We  have  explained  the  op- 
eration of  bottom  doups,  that  is,  ones 
which  have  the  doups  tied  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  slip  harness,  but  there  are 
also  leno  fabrics  made  which  have  top 
doups  on  which  the  doups  are  tied  to 
the  top  of  the  slip  harness. 

Because  of  the  fact  that  the  cloth 
is  an  openwork  one  and  rather  light 
in  weight,  silk  yarns  are  used  exten- 
sively   in    its    manufacture.    Not    only 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


39 


does  this  method  of  production  make 
a  light  fabric,  but  it  also  results  in  an 
even  or  regular  product,  for  the  silk 
yarns  have  practically  no  fibres  pro- 
jecting, which  condition  is  likely  to 
fill  up  somewhat  the  open  spaces  in  a 
fabric  composed  of  cotton  yam.  To 
make  a  regular  appearance  when  cot- 
ton yarns  are  used,  it  is  customary 
to  use  fine  two-ply  yarns,  for  this  re- 
sults in  a  smoother  product,  besides 
making  the  yarns  stronger  and  more 
able  to  stand  the  crossing  operation, 
with  fewer  breakages.  Naturally,  the 
use  of  fine  two-ply  cotton  yam  will 
increase  the  cost  of  making,  but  the 


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Weave   Plan. 

fabrics  are  usually  light  in  weight,  and 

good  results  must  be  obtained  even  at 
an  increased  price. 

It  is  rather  hard  to  ascertain  just 
what  the  best  cloth  construction  is 
when  any  sizes  of  yarn  are  consider- 
ed. This  is  because  a  change  of  a 
few  picks  will  either  produce  a  good 
or  an  unsatisfactory  fabric.  The 
crossing  or  twisting  of  the  threads 
makes  it  impossible  to  place  very 
many  picks  in  the  fabric,  and  for  this 
reason,  the  correct  construction  should 
be  left  largely  to  the  mill.  The  right 
number  of  picks  per  inch  will  cause 
fewer  breakages  and  seconds  and  less 
trouble  in  manufacturing.  The  pro- 
duction per  loom  is  quite  large,  due 
to   the   comparatively   few   picks   per 


inch,  and  loom  speeds  are  slower  than 
for  ordinary  cloths,  because  more 
time  is  necessary  for  the  satisfactory 
changing  of  the  thread,  so  that  ex- 
cessive wear  may  not  occur  on  the 
doup  yarn. 

FABRIC  VARIETY. 

While  it  is  true  that  most  of  the 
gauze  cloth  produced  is  similar  in  ef- 
fect to  the  cloth  analyzed,  it  is  also 
a  fact  that  this  weave  is  used  with 
dobby  and  also  with  fancy  jacquard 
figures.  Sometimes  the  crossing  thread 
will  cross  over  more  than  a  single 
ground  thread  and  at  other  times  more 
than  a  single  thread  is  used  for  cross- 
ing purposes.  In  fancy  weaving,  all 
these  threads  can  be  woven  plain  or 
in  various  figures  as  desired,  thus 
producing  a  pattern  similar  to  that 
made  on  the  ordinary  jacquard,  and 
with  the  remainder  of  the  cloth  of 
openwork  material  similar  to  that  of 
the  fabric  considered.  Other  fabrics 
are  produced  wherein  the  woven  fig- 
ures will  be  made  in  jacquard  style 
and  woven  on  a  box  loom,  with  the 
ground  of  the  cloth  composed  of  or- 
dinary gauze.  Where  the  figure  is  not 
woven  in  the  extra  yarn  is  sheared 
off,  leaving  practically  a  transparent 
ground  decorated  with  more  or  less 
heavy  jacquard  figures.  Such  cloths 
are  used  for  window  curtains,  door 
panels  and  similar  purposes,  and  have 
quite  a  steady  distribution. 

The  principle  of  weaving  is,  howev- 
er, founded  on  the  features  which  we 
have  explained  and  should  be  evident 
from  the  illustration  which  we  present. 
Not  only  are  grey  yams  used  in  these 
fancy  fabrics,  but  often  colored  yarn 
is  introduced  with  good  results.  The 
analysis  of  fabrics  which  are  produced 
with  leno  weave  is  no  more  complicat- 
ed than  it  is  for  ordinary  cloth,  the 
one  item  which  should  be  especially 
considered  being  the  take-ups  noted 
on  the  yarn.  Because  of  the  crossing 
of  the  threads  the  take-ups  on  the 
yarn  are  likely  to  be  a  greater  amount 
than  for  ordinary  cloths,  both  for  warp 
and  filling,  and  this  feature  naturally 
affects  the  cloth  weiglits  and  the  cost 
of  production. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  fabrics 
such  as  those  analyzed  have  a  very 
large  proportion  of  labor  and  expense 


40 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


included  and  a  comparatively  small 
cost,  due  to  material,  so  that  any  sav- 
ing which  can  be  effected  through  a 
greater  production  is  usually  much 
larger  than  can  be  obtained  through 
cutting  dovs^n  the  material.  An  extra 
loom  per  weaver,  through  the  use  of 
a  longer  or  better  cotton,  is  often  re- 
sponsible for  a  lower  cost  of  making, 
because  the  weaving  cost  is  high,  and 
a  greater  number  of  looms  per  weaver 
more  than  makes  up  for  the  additional 
cost  due  to  higher-priced  stock.  Each 
mill  has  conditions  of  operation  which 
are  somewhat  different  and  has  to  de- 
termine which  course  is  best  for  them 
through  experience. 

The  yarns  in  any  fabric  which  have 
to  be  duplicated  usually  have  to  be 
considered  from  the  finished  sample, 
and  some  allowance  must  be  made  for 
the  losses  in  finishing.  It  is  very 
likely  that  the  losses  in  the  yarns  used 
in  this  cloth  are  in  the  vicinity  of  10 
per  cent,  due  to  stretch,  loss  in  bleach- 
ing and  other  items.  It  is  believed  by 
those  who  have  made  experiments 
along  this  line  that  allowances  for  the 
above  conditions  have  been  altogether 
too  low  and  that  finished  cloths  are 
lighter  than  when  grey  to  a  greater 
extent  than  generally  believed.  The 
method  of  obtaining  the  weights  of 
the  yarn  and  the  yards  per  pound  in 
a  fabric  such  as  that  analyzed  is  as 
follows : 

2,104  threads   in   ground   warp. 
272  threads   in   selvage   warp. 


2,376   total. 

Ground  warp  take-up  13%. 
Selvage    warp    take-up    5%. 
Warp  size   100/2. 
Filling   size    100/2. 
Reed    width    47%". 
Picks  per  inch   36. 

2,104  ends  -h    (100/2    X    840)    =  .0501,   weight 

of   ground   warp   without   take-up. 
13%    take-up   in   weaving. 
.0501   -H   .87    =   .0576,   total  weight  of  ground 

warp  per  yard  of  cloth. 
272   ends   -¥-    (100/2    X    840)    =   .0065,    weight 

of  selvages  without   take-up. 
5%   take-up  in  weaving. 
.0065   H-   .y5   =   .0068,   total  weight  of  selvage 

warp  per  yard   of  cloth. 
36  picks  X  47%"  reed  width  X  36" 

36" 

yards  of  filling   per  yard  of  cloth. 
1.701    -H    100/2    X    840     =   .0405,   total   weight 

of   filling   per   yard   of   cloth. 
.0576   -t-   .0068    +   .0405   =   .1049,   total   weight 

per   yard. 
1.0000  -r-  .1049   =   9.53  yards  per  lb.    (grey). 


LAPPET  DOTTED  SWISS 

One  variety  of  fabric  which  has  a 
more  or  less  steady  sale,  and  in  quite 
large  quantities,  is  the  cloth  usually 
sold  for  a  cheap  dotted  swiss.  In  a 
general  way,  such  materials  are  of  a 
light  character  and  made  from  medi- 
um and  fine  sizes  of  yarns,  either 
carded  or  combed,  and  have  a  rather 
sheer  effect  when  finished.  They  are 
used  for  cheap  dresses,  waists,  win- 
dow-curtains, portiers  and  similar 
purposes  where  there  can  be  large 
quantities  disposed  of.  Possibly,  the 
majority  of  such  cloths  are  made  with 
patterns  which  consist  of  dots  spaced 
in  a  diamond  position  on  the  cloth 
These  dots  may  be  either  large  or 
small  in  size  and  spaced  up  to  about 
one  and  one-quarter  inches  apart  in  a 
lateral  direction,  although  special  ap- 
pliances are  sometimes  used  which 
increase  this  distance.  There  are, 
however,  many  fabrics  made  in  which 
there  are  what  are  called  trailing  pat- 
terns where  the  lappet  figure  is  con- 
tinuous and  no  shearing  operation  has 
to  be  done,  as  is  noted  in  the  case 
where   separate   spots   are   produced. 

.Most  of  the  lappet  patterns  made 
are  imitations  of  those  made  on  em- 
broidery and  swivel  looms,  although 
the  results  are  not  so  accurate,  be- 
cause the  lappet  mechanism  is  not  so 
exact,  and  for  this  reason,  is  usually, 
although  not  always,  applied  to  fabrics 
of  lower  quality.  At  certain  times,  it 
is  also  true  that  lappet  figures,  both 
of  the  spot  and  trailing  variety,  are 
applied  to  various  kinds  of  medium 
and  even  heavy-weight  waisting  and 
dress  materials,  with  a  resulting  im- 
provement in  their  appearance,  and 
not  only  are  grey  cotton  yarns  used, 
but  there  are  also  colors  employed, 
and  in  quite  a  number  of  cases,  both 
raw  and  dyed  silks.  It  is  also  pos- 
sible to  have  the  loom  attachment 
such  that  three  different  patterns  can 
be  placed  on  the  cloth  simultaneously, 
so  that  quite  intricate  and  varied  ef- 
fects can  be  obtained.  The  illustra- 
tion which  we  use  shows  two  widely 
different  varieties  of  lappet  patterns, 
one  made  from  grey  yarns  with  a  spot 
effect  which  has  to  be  sheared  before 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


41 


selling  and  finishing,  and  another 
which  contains  dyed  yarns  and  is 
woven  with  a  trailing  pattern,  and  not 
only  is  one  lappet  pattern  employed, 
but  it  will  be  noted  that  two  distinct 
lappet  patterns  have  been  used,  thus 
making  it  necessary  for  two  needle 
bars  to  be  used  on  the  loom  lay,  which 
are  operated  by  two  entirely  different 
lappet  chains. 

1  he  motion  or  attachment  which 
permits  the  making  of  a  pattern  some- 
w  hat  similar  to  embroidery  is  gener- 
ally known  as  a  lappet  motion.  It 
can  be  used  either  on  a  plain  or  a 


When  the  slide  is  held  up,  no  pat- 
tern is  made,  because  the  threads  are 
above  the  warp,  but  when  it  is  lower- 
ed at  the  proper  time,  or  when  the 
shed  is  open,  the  filling  passes  over 
the  yarn  in  the  needle's  eyes,  thus 
binding  it  in  the  cloth,  and  then  by 
moving  the  slide  back  and  forth  for 
the  succeeding  picks,  the  various  lap- 
pet patterns  are  produced.  The  nee- 
dles have  to  be  lifted  w'hen  the  lay 
beats  the  filling  into  the  fell  of  the 
cloth  or  else  the  fabric  w^ould  be  spoil- 
ed, and  this  operation  is  accomplished 
by   a   loom   mechanism.     The    shuttle 


An    Inexpensive    Uappet    Made    From    Grey  Yarns  and  Sheared  After  Being 

Woven. 


dobby  loom,  and  is  a  system  of  levers 
operated  by  a  cam  or  by  a  chain 
composed  of  different  sizes  of  balls, 
arranged  according  to  the  pattern  de- 
sired. On  the  loom  lay,  and  moving 
back  and  forth  with  it,  is  a  slide 
which  is  free  to  move  latterly,  and 
which  can  also  be  raised  and  lowered 
at  the  correct  time.  This  slide  con- 
tains a  number  of  needles,  the  lower 
portion  of  which  have  eyes  through 
which  a  thread  or  threads  can  be 
drawn.  The  number  of  needles  on 
the  slide  is  determined  entirely  by  the 
pattern  which  is  to  be  produced. 
Through  a  system  of  levers  this  slide 
is  operated  by  a  cam  or  by  a  chain  as 
explained. 


does  not  run  close  to  the  reed  as  in 
ordinary  cloth  making,  but  next  to  a 
row  of  pins  between  which  and  the 
reed  there  is  space  for  the  lappet  nee- 
dles when  they  are  depressed  to  form 
the  pattern.  :\Iuch  of  the  evenness  of 
a  lappet  pattern  is  secured  by  the 
tightness  of  the  motion,  for  any  great 
amount  of  play  will  cause  unsatis- 
factory results.  The  lappet  yarn  is 
not  placed  on  a  heavy  beam  at  tiit; 
bade  of  the  loom,  but  is  wound  on  a 
light  spool  which  is  placed  near  the 
front  over  the  warp  yarn  and  on  the 
loom  frame. 

Due  to  the  large  take-up  in  weav- 
ing, which  will  be  explained  more 
fully  later,  these  spools  contain  yarn 


42 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


to  weave  out  only  a  portion  of  the 
ground  warp.  If  they  were  made 
heavier  the  operation  would  not  be 
so  successful,  so  when  one  spool  runs 
out  another  is  inserted  and  the  vari- 
ous threads  drawn  in  by  the  weaver, 
this  operation  taking  but  a  short  time, 
inasmuch  as  there  are  usually  only  a 
comparatively  few  lappet  ends.  One 
other  feature  which  has  to  be  consid- 
ered in  producing  patterns  by  this 
motion  is  that  the  movement  back 
and  forth  of  the  loom  lay  cavises  the 
lappet  yarn  to  be  regularly  slack  and 
tight  to  an  excessive  amount  and  some 
arrangement  has  to  be  used  so  as  to 
take  up  the  slack  yarn.  Usually  this 
arrangement  is  very  simple,  being 
nothing  more  than  a  light  wire  appa- 
ratus over  which  the  lappet  yarn  pass- 
es and  is  operated  by  a  light  spring. 
Through  such  a  method  the  yarn 
slips  back  and  forth  through  the 
needle  eyes  and  causes  no  great  trou- 
ble. 

The  variety  of  cloths  to  which  lap- 
pet patterns  are  applied  is  so  wide 
that  any  statements  regarding  the  fab- 
ric constructions  used  would  be  rather 
inadequate,  but  for  the  simple  cloths 
which  contain  dots  a  number  of  gen- 
eral statements  may  be  made.  Usually 
the  main  idea  in  producing  a  fabric  of 
this  character  is  to  get  it  out  as 
cheaply  as  possible,  and  therefore 
the  number  of  threads  and  picks  per 
inch  are  comparatively  low.  It  is  also 
true  that  a  light  sheer  ground  cloth 
is  desired,  for  this  allows  the  lappet 
dot  or  figure  to  show  in  contrast  with 
the  body  of  the  fabric.  To  produce 
this  light  ground  cloth  the  yarns  nat- 
urally would  be  of  comparatively  fine 
sizes.  Both  carded  and  combed  stock 
is  used,  depending  a  good  deal  on  the 
results  desired  and  on  the  mill  pro- 
ducing the  goods. 

The  lappet  yarn  is  usually  of  heavy 
size  so  as  to  form  a  distinct  figure 
in  contrast  to  the  ground  cloth,  and 
it  is  also  to  be  noted  in  the  majority 
of  cases  that  the  lappet  yarn  is  two 
or  more  ply.  This  is  done  because  the 
continuous  rubbing  of  the  lappet  nee- 
dles, as  the  loom  lay  moves  back  and 
forth,  would  cause  many  breakages  if 
the  yam  was  single,  while  with  ply 
yarn  practically  no  lappet  yarn  break- 


age is  noted.  When  cheap  results  are 
desired  it  is  customury  to  use  carded 
yarn  for  the  lappet,  in  fact,  it  is  usual- 
ly used  because  the  continuous  twist- 
ing of  the  yarn  in  the  pattern  elimi- 
nates the  uneven  yarn  effects  which 
may  be  present,  and  also  because  a 
greater  or  less  portion  of  the  yarn  is 
sheared  off  in  spot  patterns. 

Naturally,  when  a  higher  price  is  be- 
ing received  for  the  woven  material 
a  greater  amount  of  leeway  is  allowed 
in  the  yarns  used,  and  sometimes 
combed  cotton  yarn,  especially  if  it  is 
first  mercerized,  is  utilized  and  often- 
times silk  yarn  is  used  both  for  spot 
and  for  trailing  patterns.  Often  silk 
filling  is  used  for  some  of  the  more 
expensive  fabrics,  and  in  these  cases 
the  cloth  has  quite  a  high  count,  al- 
though still  light  in  weight,  due  to  the 
use  of  silk.  Recently,  there  has  been 
a  large  number  of  lappet  dots  applied 
to  fabrics  which  contain  hard  twist 
filling  and  which  are  finished  as  crepes 
in  fact,  the  ground  cloth  construction 
is  identical  with  many  of  the  cheaper 
or  medium  priced  crepe  fabrics.  One 
of  the  most  coinmon  lappet  construc- 
tions used  is  72  threads  per  inch  and 
48  picks  per  inch,  with  50s  warp  and 
60-1  or  70-1  filling,  the  yarn  sizes  vary- 
ing somewhat,  due  to  mill  conditions. 
The  lappet  yarn  is  usually  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  30-2  and  is  of  carded  stock,  while 
the  other  yarns  are  often  of  combed 

PATTERN  MAKING. 
There  are  two  general  classifications 
of  the  various  lappet  patterns,  first, 
those  which  consist  of  a  spot  effect  in 
different  arrangements  and  in  which 
the  lappet  end  floats  over  a  portion  of 
the  cloth  and  second  those  which  are 
designated  as  trailing  patterns  where 
the  lappet  end  or  ends  weave  in  con- 
tinuously on  practically  every  pick. 
When  the  first  class  of  pattern  is  be- 
ing made  an  extra  process  is  neces- 
sary after  the  cloth  is  woven,  for  the 
lappet  yarn,  which  floats  from  one 
spot  to  the  one  following,  must  be 
cut  off  so  as  to  leave  the  ground  cloth 
entirely  clear.  In  shearing  these  floats 
off,  the  loose  thread  is  first  cut  and 
then,  in  a  second  process,  the  cut  ends 
are  brushed  up  and  clipped  off  close 
to  the  woven  spot  or  figure.     In  t^a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


43 


toajority  of  cases  where  the  first  kind 
of  patterns  are  being  made,  it  is  bet- 
ter to  produce  the  effect  through 
means  of  a  cam,  as  this  results  in 
more  accurate  mechanical  operation. 
There  is,  however,  a  limit  to  the  ex- 
tent of  pattern  which  can  be  placed 
on  a  cam  and  usually  such  methods  are 
confined  alii.ost  entirely  to  dots  of  va- 
rious sizes. 

When  the  trailing  patterns  are  to 
be  produced  a  chain  of  balls  is  the 
common  method,  the  diameter  of  the 
ball  regulating  the  operation  of  the 
lappet  needles.  If  the  extreme  range 
of  pattern  which  can  be  produced  is 


in  demand  and  this  is  an  advantage 
wlien  some  looms  are  considered. 
When  clipped  spots  are  being  pro- 
duced it  is  sometimes  the  case  that 
a  process  is  used  whereby  the  cut 
ends  are  pulled  through  to  the  b?ck  o! 
the  cloth,  although  this  is  not  done 
when  a  low-priced  material  is  desired. 
Usually  a  lappet  loom  will  be  oper- 
ated at  a  somewhat  slower  speed  than 
plain  or  dobby  looms  producing  the 
ground  cloth  alone,  that  is,  a  dobby 
loom  which  was  operated  at  about  160 
picks  per  minute  would  be  operated 
at  possibly  14.5  or  150  picks  per  min- 
ute  if  a   lappet   pattern   were   to   be 


A   Lappet   Woven  from    Dyed   Yarns  and    Containing    a    Trailing    Pattern. 


one  and  one-half  inches,  and  there 
are  20  sizes  of  balls  employed,  the  ef- 
fect desired  is  divided  into  20  parts, 
and  each  part  will  be  represented  by 
a  certain  size  of  ball.  When  this  has 
been  done  it  is  easy  enough  to  make 
up  the  loom  chain  after  making  due 
allowances  for  the  number  of  picks 
per  inch  in  the  fabrics.  Because  there 
is  some  variation  in  the  mechanical 
operation  of  the  lappet  motion,  it  is 
often  necessary  that  the  pattern  be 
tried  and  then  adjusted  at  the  loom 
especially  when  balls  are  used  to  pro- 
duce the  pattern.  The  use  of  a  lappet 
motion  on  a  loom  does  not  prevent 
the  making  of  ordinary  plain  or  dobby 
fabrics  when  ordinary  lappets  are  not 


added  to  the  effect.  The  looms  per 
weaver  are  approximately  as  many  as 
when  no  lappet  pattern  is  used,  that 
is,  if  six  dobby  looms  were  operated 
by  a  weaver  on  a  certain  pattern  the 
same  number  would  be  likely  to  be 
operated  if  a  lappet  effect  were  added. 
The  weaving  cost  is  slightly  higher 
because  of  the  slower  loom  speed  and 
a  somewhat  smaller  percentage  of  pro- 
duction. There  are,  of  course,  many 
patterns  where  the  above  is  not  true, 
when  more  than  one  lappet  bar  is 
used  on  a  cloth,  but  for  a  one-bar  lap- 
pet the  statement  applies  to  the  ma- 
jority  of   fabrics. 

One  important     feature     which  has 
been  alluded  to  before  is  the  take-up 


44 


A    COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


of  the  lappet  yarns.  This  is  of  im- 
portance because  unless  care  is  exer- 
cised the  cloth  weights  obtained  will 
not  be  correct,  and  the  cloth  cost  re- 
sulting will  be  likely  to  cause  losses. 
Due  to  the  crossing  back  and  forth 
of  the  lappet  threads  it  takes  an  ex- 
cessive amount  of  yarn  to  weave  the 
cloth,  the  extra  amount  depending  en- 
tirely on  the  fabric  and  the  cloth  con- 
struction. Spot  patterns  are  likely  to 
take  from  three  to  five  times  the 
length  of  yarn  to  produce  any  certain 
lengths  of  cloth,  while  trailing  pat- 
terns may  take  from  five  to  fifteen 
times  as  mu^h  as  the  length  of  cloth 
produced.  A  cloth  with  a  large  num- 
ber of  picks  per  inch  usually  has  a 
very  high  take-up  on  the  lappet  yarns. 
It  is  a  very  good  plan  whenever  pos- 
sible to  leave  from  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  of  plain  cloth  next 
to  the  selvages  when  arranging  for 
lappet  patterns,  as  this  facilitates 
the  handling  of  the  cloth  and  makes 
a  better  result,  and  besides  causes 
less  trouble  in  weaving  with  a  smaller 
percentage  of  seconds.  It  is  some- 
times almost  impossible  to  eliminate 
streaks  in  a  lappet  fabric  of  light  con- 
struction, because  a  heavy  lappet  yarn 
has  a  tendency  to  hold  the  picks  back 
and  thereby  cause  thick  and  thin 
places  in  the  cloth.  Too  much  tension 
on  the  lappet  yarn  spool  will  cause 
the  heavy  yarn  to  pull  the  ground 
warp  ends  together,  thus  creating  an 
uneven   finished   effect. 

The  yarns  used  in  making  this  kind ' 
of  fabric  will  vary  widely  due  to  the 
different  conditions  of  manufacture. 
It  is,  however,  necessary  to  have  the 
yarns  of  fairly  good  quality,  because 
the  light  character  of  most  of  the 
cloth  will  show  up  any  irregularities 
and  cause  criticism  of  the  finished  re- 
sults. When  yarns  are  to  be  dyed  be- 
fore the  weaving  operation  they  will 
probably  contain  a  longer  staple  of 
cotton  for  the  same  size  of  yarn  than 
those  which  are  to  be  used  in  the  grey 
state.  The  filling  when  dyed  is  also 
likely  to  contain  quite  a  little  more 
twist  per  inch  than  when  used  in  the 
grey  state,  because  the  extra  twist 
makes  the  yarn  stronger  and  facili- 
tates handliiig.  In  a  general  way  the 
use  of  dyed  yarns  will  make  a  fabric 


cost  a  greater  amount  than  would  oth- 
erwise be  noted.  For  the  yarns  used 
in  the  grey  fabrics,  the  yarn  layouts 
would  be  approximately  as  follows,  al- 
though they  may  vary  widely  from 
the  Lgures  given,  due  to  manufactur- 
ing conditions  in  the  different  mills: 

5  0/1    combed    warp. 
IGUT   grs.    per   yard. 
.!h8   2%     contraction    in    twist. 

.1634 

10   spinning    frame   draft. 

1.G.34    -r-    2    =    .817    =    10.2   hank   roving. 
6.6  jack   frame   draft. 

5  39    -H    2    =    2.70    =    3.08   hank   roving. 
5.5   second   intermediate   frame   draft. 

14.S.T    -^    2    =   7.43   =    1.12   hank   roving. 
4.4    first   intermediate  frame  draft. 


32.69    -^    2    =    16.35    =   .51   hank   roving 
3.7   slubber    frame    draft. 


60  grains    finisher    drawing    sliver 
45   grains  card  sliver. 
12   oz.    lap. 

65/1   filling     combed. 
.1282   grains    =     1    yard. 

.98   2%   contraction  in  twist. 


.1256 

9  spinning   frame   draft. 


1.1304    -^    2    =    .565    =    14.75    hank    roving. 
G.S  jack    frame    draft. 


3.84    -^    2    =    1.92    =    4.34    hank   roving. 
5.S   second    intermediate    frame    draft. 


11.14    H-   2   =   5.57   =  1.49  hank  roving. 
5   first   intermediate  frame  draft. 

27.85    -^    2   =    13.92   =   .60  hank  roving. 
4.3   slubber    frame    draft. 

60  grains    finisher    drawing    sll\or. 
45   grains    card    sliver. 
12   oz.    lap. 

30/1   carded    warp. 
2778   grains    =     1    yard. 
.98    2%    contraction    in    twist. 


spinning    frame    draft. 


2.58    H-    2    =    1.29    =    6.46    hank    roving. 
G.25    fine    frame   draft. 


8.00    -i-    2    =    4.03    =    2.06    hank    roving. 
5.25   intermediate  frame  draft. 


21.16    H-    2    =    10.58    =    .79   hank   roving. 
4.25   slubber    frame    draft. 


45   grains    finisher    draw.ng    sliver. 
4  5   grains  card  sliver. 
12   oz.    lap. 

The  method  of  finding  the  weights 
on  grey  lappet  fabrics  is  no  more  diffi- 
cult than  it  is  for  ordinary  cloths,  if 
due  care  be  exercised  in  obtaining  the 
take-ups,    especially     on     the    lappet 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


45 


yams.  On  ordinary  fabrics  of  this 
nature  the  finishing  processes  are 
quite  simple,  the  white  cloths  being 
bleached  and  then  starched  and  folded 
or,  if  dyed,  they  are  dyed  in  a  similar 
manner  to  an  ordinary  piecp-dyed  ma 
terial,  while  the  fabrics  which  contain 
bleached  and  dyed  yarns  are  usually 
washed  and  starched  and  are  then 
ready  for  sale.  The  amount  o:  starch 
added  depends  altogether  on  the  fab- 
ric, many  of  the  cheap  white  materi- 
als being  treated  to  quite  a  large 
amount,  so  as  to  keep  the  threads  in 
place  and  make  the  cloth  appear  bet- 
ter, while  many  of  the  bettei'  cloths 
contain  comparatively  little  of  such 
sizing  material.  The  process  for  ob- 
taining the  weights  on  the  dotted  fab- 
rics for  which  the  yarn  layouts  are 
given  is  as  follows: 

Cloth   width   finished   27". 

Cloth    width    grey    27%". 

Width    in    reed    29  Vi". 

Threads   per   inch    72,    finished. 

Picks    per    Inch    47,    finished. 

Threads  per  inch  71,   grey. 

Picks    per    inch    4S,    grey. 

Threads    in    warp    19fi2. 

Lappett   ends   in   warp   27. 

Reed    (2   in   a   dent)    33. 

Warp    size    50/1. 

Filling    size    65/1. 

Lappet    size    30/2. 

W'arp    take-up    5%. 

Lappet    take-up    75%. 

Price    to    converter   about    5i^c.    grey. 

Price   to    consumer    usually    12 %c.    per    yard. 

1.962   ends   -h    (50/1    X    840)    =   .0467,   ground 

warp  weight  without  take-up. 
5%    take-up. 
.0467     -f-     .95     =     .0492,     total     ground     warp 

weight    per    yard    of    cloth. 
48  picks  X  29%"  reed  width  X  36" 

=       1,404 

36" 

yards  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
1,404    -H    (65/1    X    840)    =   .0257,    total   weight 

of    filling    per    vard    of    cloth. 
27    ends    lappet    h-    (30/2     X     840)     =    .00214, 

weight    without    take-up. 
75%    take-up   in    weaving. 
.00214    ~   .25    =   .0086,    total   weight  per   yard 

of   cloth    for    lappet   yarn. 
.0492    -f-   .0257    +   .0086    =   .0835.   total   weight 

per    yard. 
1.0000    -=-   .0835    =    11.98   yards   before   shear- 
ing   (grey). 


■♦  »  » 


MERCERIZED  POPLIN 

There  is  one  line  of  cloths  which  is 
being  used  in  increasing  quantities  and 
which  is  certain  to  have  more  or  less 
of  an  influence  on  future  cloth  sales. 
This  line  cf  fabrics  is  the  one  gen- 
erally   known    as    mercerized    poplin. 


There  are  certain  styles  of  materials 
which  sell  in  large  quantities  when 
the  market  is  right  for  them,  but 
which  at  other  times  have  a  compara- 
tively small  sale,  and  are  replaced  by 
other  fabrics,  and  it  can  be  said  that 
the  cause  of  such  fluctuating  sales  is 
largely  Decause  of  the  whims  of  fash- 
ion. 

The  fabric  which  we  are  to  consider 
was  generally  thought  of,  a  number  of 
years  ago,  in  the  same  class  as  other 
fancy  materials,  and  sellers  expected 
to  see  a  big  decrease  in  sales  which, 
up  to  the  present  time,  has  not  been 
noted.  It  is  true  that  the  quantity 
used  in  the  future  may  not  be  as 
large  as  it  has  been  in  the  recent 
past,  but  it  is  very  unlikely  that  the 
sale  of  mercerized  poplins  will  ever 
again  be  of  small  proportions.  This 
is  because  consumers  in  general  have 
realized  the  great  value  and  beauty 
of  the  cloth  and  the  wide  variety  of 
uses  to  which  it  can  be  successfully 
applied.  Such  fabrics  are  used  for 
dresses,  waists,  children's  suits  and 
rompers,  men's  shirts,  ladies'  belts, 
raincoats,  and,  in  fact,  about  any 
place  where  attractive  appearance  and 
cloth-wearing  value  is  of  importance. 

A  good  many  sellers  have  adopted 
one  of  the  ordinary  good  poplin  con- 
structions and  are  trade-marking  and 
advertising  it,  and  expect  that  it  will 
be  in  the  future  the  most  important 
staple  fancy  cloth  in  the  market.  In 
addition  to  the  ordinary  plain  white 
material  which  is  so  often  seen,  there 
are  similar  cloths  dyed  in  solid  colors, 
the  same  kind  of  materials  decorated 
with  plain  and  fancy  silk  stripes  in 
white  and  various  colors,  and  dobby 
and  jacquard  weaves  are  offer  ap- 
plied to  the  poplin  fabrics,  so  that 
the  variety  of  effects  possible  is  about 
as  wide  as  it  is  on  any  ordinary  fancy 
cotton  mill  product. 

A  NEW  CONSTRUCTION. 

When  a  poplin  construction  is  men- 
tioned it  is  generally  well  recognized 
what  kind  of  a  cloth  is  designated, 
and  many  ^yould  be  inclined  to  view 
the  fabric  as  being  one  which  has 
been  produced  for  a  good  many  years 
but  this  is  not  true,  inasmuch  as  tl  e 
present  mercerized  fabric  bears  vei  y 


46 


A   COTTON  FABKlCiS   GLUSSAivi 


little  resemblance  to  the  old  style, 
well-known  poplin.  This  is  mainly 
because  the  fabric  is  mercerized  be- 
fore being  sold,  and  as  mercerization 
is  a  comparatively  new  process,  the 
methods  having  been  available  not 
much  in  excess  of  ten  years  and  used 
in  large  quantities  a  much  shorter 
time  than  this,  it  can  be  said  that  the 
present  poplin  is  a  rather  new  cloth. 

Inasmuch  as  the  mercerization  proc- 
ess is  aided  by  certain  yarn  construc- 
tions, the  yarns  which  are  used  in  the 
present  fabrics  are  made  in  a  differ- 
ent manner  than  those  formerly  used, 
although  the  yarn  sizes  are  approxi- 
mately the  same.  It  is  also  probably 
true  that  the  recent  large  develop- 
ment in  fine  cloth-making  has  made 
the  quality  of  the  yarns  for  the  same 
sizes  used  in  poplin  much  better  than 
ever  before,  naturally  resulting  in  a 
bettei  j,pp earing  cloth.  In  any  kind 
of  fabric  which  is  to  be  mercerized 
there  are  a  few  general  manufactur- 
ing features  to  be  considered.  The 
more  nearly  parallel  the  cotton  fibres 
in  the  yarn  are  the  better  is  the  re- 
sult likely  to  be  when  finished. 

Mercerization  makes  the  cotton 
fibre,  which  is  a  small,  fiat-twisted 
tube  under  ordinary  conditions,  change 
into  a  tiny  round  fibre  very  much 
like  a  small  glass  rod  when  examined 
under  the  microscope.  As  the  ordi- 
nary spinning  process  twists  the  fibres 
together,  the  more  they  are  twisted, 
or  the  higher  the  standard  of  twist  is, 
the  less  will  be  the  lustre  imparted 
by  mercerization  because  the  paral- 
lelism of  the  fibres  will  have  been 
destroyed  through  the  twisting,  while 
the  less  twist  the  yarn  contains  the 
greater  is  the  lustre  likely  to  be.  It 
is  for  this  reason  that  the  yarns  for 
use  in  cloths  which  are  to  be  mercer- 
ized are  spun  with  a  low  standard  of 
twist. 

The  reduction  of  the  twist  stan- 
dard naturally  results  in  the  produc- 
tion of  a  weaker  yarn,  and  as  the 
length  of  the  cotton  fibre  has  much 
to  do  with  the  strength  of  the  yarn, 
it  is  customary  to  use  a  somewhat 
longer  staple  of  cotton  so  as  to  ob- 
tain adequate  yarn  strength. 

Mercerization  is  produced  by  the 
action  of  caustic  soda  on  cotton  cloth. 


but  the  cloth  when  being  treated 
must  be  held  tightly  or  no  mercerized 
effect  is  produced,  thus,  if  the  filling 
is  the  portion  being  treated  the  cloth 
is  held  out  wide,  while  if  the  warp 
is  being  treated  the  cloth  is  held 
tightly  in  that  direction.  Single  fill- 
ing can  be  spun  satisfactorily  with  a 
low  standard  of  twist,  because  there 
are  no  processes  after  the  yarn  is 
spun,  while  in  practically  all  cases 
where  the  warp  is  to  be  mercerized 
the  yarn  must  be  twisted  after  spin- 
ning, because  soft  twist  single  warp 
would  be  impractical  through  exces- 
sive breakage  due  to  the  soft  twist, 
while  with  two-ply  this  trouble  is 
largely  eliminated. 

FABRIC   CONSTRUCTION. 

A  poplin  fabric  is  one  wherein  there 
is  a  greater  number  of  threads  than 
there  are  picks  per  inch,  usually  two 
or  more  times  as  many,  and  in  most 
cases,  the  warp  is  of  finer  size  than 
the  filling.  The  above  method  of  de- 
veloping a  cloth  produces  one  where 
there  appears  to  be  ribs  in  the  filling 
direction,  the  number  and  size  of 
which  are  regulated  by  the  picks  per 
inch  and  the  size  of  the  filling  yarns, 
and  the  excessive  number  of  threads 
per  inch  in  the  warp  practically  cov- 
ers up  the  filling  which  is  used. 

Under  these  conditions  most  of  the 
fabric  wear  is  noted  on  the  warp 
yarns,  and  the  fabric  will  wear  as  long 
as  the  warp  yarn  is  strong  enough  to 
hold  together.  The  idea  is  used  in 
cloths  made  from  various  materials, 
for  it  is  adopted  in  silk,  wool  and 
cotton  and  not  only  in  the  materials 
as  mentioned,  but  also  in  mixture  fab- 
rics, such  as  silk  and  cotton,  silk  and 
wool,  cotton  and  linen  and  also  in 
some  cases  entirely  from  linen.  Not 
only  are  poplins  made  entirely  from 
cotton,  but  they  are  made  from  dif- 
ferent qualities  of  stock  for  warp  and 
filling,  that  is,  the  warp  will  be  made 
from  combed  stock,  while  the  filling 
will  be  produced  from  carded  stock, 
and  the  warp  may  be  of  fine  two-ply, 
while  the  filling  may  be  of  heavier 
single  yarns. 

This  is  entirely  possib.e,  because  the 
warp  practically  covers  up  the  cheaper 
filling.      Many    poplins    are    made    of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


47 


single  yarns,  but  the  largest  sellers 
of  recent  years  and  the  ones  which 
will  have  a  continuous  sale  are  those 
made  from  two-ply  yarns,  at  least  so 
far  as  the  warp  yarn  is  considered. 
Possibly  the  fabric  which  is  selling 
in  largest  quantity  is  that  which 
counts  about  one  hundred  threads 
and  48  picks  per  inch  in  the  grey 
state,  is  about  28  inches  wide,  and 
contains  60-2  soft  twist  warp,  and 
from  24-1  to  30-1  filling.  There  has 
been  a  large  sale  of  a  carded  poplin 
construction  which  has  a  count  some- 
what similar  to  that  above  mentioned 
and  which  is  made  from  30-1  carded 
warp  and  25-1  filling,  but  which  is  not 
mercerized,  and  which  is  not  so  at- 
tractive, neither  does  it  sell  for  as 
high  a  price  as  the  fabric  which  is 
now   considered   the   standard   poplin. 

There  are  also  many  poplin  fabrics 
made  where  the  count  of  the  yarn  is 
higher  than  the  60-2  previously  men- 
tioned, for  70-2  and  60-2  are  often 
used  with  a  greater  number  of  threads 
per  inch  and  in  many  cases  with  the 
filling  of'  two-ply  yarn  and  a  corre- 
sponding increase  in  the  number  of 
picks  per  inch.     As  a  usual  thing  the 

GROUND  WEAVE 
of  all  poplin  cloths  is  plain,  the 
effects  being  largely  stripes,  com- 
posed of  either  silk  or  cotton,  and 
the  figures,  when  produced  on  a  jac- 
quard  loom,  are  not  especially  at- 
tractive because  of  the  small  number 
of  picks  per  inch. 

When  a  few  picks  are  used  in  any 
cloth  it  is  almost  impossible  to  pro- 
duce very  good  woven  effects,  because 
the  filling  does  not  cover  up  well,  and 
when  floated  will  produce  a  rather 
ragged  appearance.  Because  a  plain 
weave  is  used  on  many  of  these  fab- 
rics, it  might  be  supposed  that  the 
automatic  loom  would  be  available 
for  the  weaving  operation,  and  while 
this  is  sometimes  the  case  on  many 
of  the  cheap  lines,  the  higher  quality 
of  most  of  the  fabrics  seen  makes  it 
necessary  that  more  attention  be  giv- 
en to  the  weaving  of  the  cloth,  and 
besides  the  saving  through  the  use  of 
the  automatic  loom  is  not  especially 
large,  because  the  cost  of  production 
is  not  very  high  in  most  cases.  The 
fabric    weight   will    vary,    due    to    the 


count  and  the  sizes  of  yarn  used,  but 
in  most  cases  the  weight  of  the  cloth 
in  the  grey  state  is  from  iVz  to  5% 
yards  per  pound  for  cloth  which  is 
28  inches  wide. 

SELLING    PRICES. 

Possibly  the  new  style  of  poplin  il- 
lustrates very  well  the  reduction 
which  consumers  have  been  obtaining 
the  past  year  or  so  on  quite  a  number 
of  what  might  be  designated  as  fancy 
goods.  Not  only  are  prices  radically 
lower,  but  the  fabrics  are  much  bet- 
ter at  the  low  prices  than  they  were 
at  the  former  high  prices.  Somewhat 
less  than  ten  years  ago  poplin  cloths 
for  mercerization  were  developed,  and 
because  they  were  a  new  thing  and 
manufacturers  and  finishers  were  not 
experienced  in  their  production,  the 
costs  of  making  and  finishing  were 
higher,  or  appeared  higher,  than  they 
do  to-day,  although  the  quantities 
made  were  so  small  that  the  returns 
received  were  not  bo  large. 

Cotnpetition  was  also  responsible  for 
lower  prices,  because  a  larger  sale 
was  possible  as  consumers  realized 
the  large  cloth  value.  Prices  for  fin- 
ishing have  also  declined  quite  a  good 
deal,  due  to  the  handling  of  large 
amounts,  although  the  lower  finish- 
ing prices  do  not  indicate  that  finish- 
ing profits  have  been  less  desirable 
than  they  were.     The 

GREATER  PRODUCTION 
at  the  mill,  and  the  more  extended  fin- 
ishing   has    produced    a    better    and 
cheaper  cloth. 

In  some  cases,  when  such  fabrics 
were  first  woven,  the  operatives  ran 
but  a  single  loom,  while  to-day  the 
usual  method  is  to  operate  six,  the 
increase  being  due  to  the  greater  ex- 
perience of  the  operatives  and  the  bet- 
ter adaptation  of  yarns  and  processes. 
When  first  sold  these  fabrics  were 
retailed  at  about  50  cents  per  yard, 
and  in  some  cases  even  higher,  while 
to-day  the  standard  retail  price  is  25 
cents  per  yard,  with  good  profits  to 
all  sellers,  although  in  some  cases 
there  is  even  a  lower  price  than  25 
cents  per  yard.  The  reduction  in  price 
has  not  occurred  in  a  single  year, 
but  has  been  gradual  as  the  various 
makers    ^nd     sellers    became    accus: 


48 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tomed  to  making  and  handling  tlie 
fabric.  It  is,  however,  likely  that  the 
standard  price  will  remain  at  25  cents 
per  yard,  for  there  seems  to  be  very 
few  opportunities  for  any  further  re- 
duction. 

The  price  for  bleaching,  merceriz- 
ing and  finishing  the  cloth  as  it 
is  sold  to-day  varies  somewhat,  but 
in  a  general  way  is  about  one  and 
one-half  cents  per  yard.  Similar  re- 
ductions to  that  noted  on  poplins  have 
been  seen  on  many  of  the  silk  mixed 
fabrics,  and  also  on  other  lines  of 
all-cotton  fabrics,  so  that,  although  a 
great  many  more  expensive  cotton 
cloths  are  being  produced  than  ever 
before,  the  consumer  is  obtaining  far 
more  value  on  a  good  many  lines  than 
was  previously  the  case. 

MANUFACTURING  FACTS. 

There  is  comparatively  little  shrink- 
age in  width  between  the  woven  cloth 
and  the  width  of  the  warp  in  the 
reed.  The  high  number  of  warp 
threads  and  the  heavy  size  of  the  fill- 
ing tend  to  hold  out  the  cloth  when 
it  is  weaving  and  make  the  above 
noted  small  shrinkage.  Possibly  a 
shrinkage  from  reed  to  cloth  of  about 
one-half  inch  will  cover  most  fabrics 
of  this  character.  Because  of  the 
cloth  construction  it  is  necessary  to 
use  a  fine  reed  in  weaving,  thus,  for 
such  a  cloth  as  that  described,  a  50 
reed  would  be  used  with  two  ends  per 
dent.  If  three  or  more  ends  were 
placed  in  a  dent  and  a  coarser  reed 
used  the  weaving  operation  would  un- 
doubtedly be  facilitated,  but  the  reed 
marks  would  probably  be  very  notice- 
able in  the  finished  cloth,  and  trouble 
will  arise  from  this  fact,  so  that  mills 
do  not  care  to  attempt  such  a  method. 

Inasmuch  as  a  fine  reed  is  used,  the 
two-ply  yarn  will  sometimes  cause 
trouble,  because  the  knots  will  not 
pass  through  the  reed  and  will  break, 
causing  a  loss  in  loom  production. 
The  reed  will  rub  the  soft  twisted 
warp  yarn  if  the  number  of  threads 
per  inch  be  too  high  or  if  the  yarn 
size  be  too  coarse  for  the  reed.  Good 
cotton  is  generally  used  because  of 
the  soft  twist  in  the  yarn  and  to 
cause  less  loss  of  production  in  weav- 
ing. The  fabric  is  piece  mercerized, 
that  is,  it  is  treated  after  it  comes 


from  the  loom.  The  mercerizing 
process  can  be  accomplished  either 
before  or  after  the  bleaching  process, 
in  most  cases  being  done  before  the 
bleaching  takes  place. 

The  reason  the  cloth  has  so 
much  wearing  value  is  because  there 
is  so  much  material  included  and  such 
a  comparatively  small  weaving  and 
expense  cost,  these  two  items  often 
being  less  than  20  per  cent  of  the  to- 
tal mill  cost,  a  condition  seldom  noted 
on  fancy  cotton  cloths  which  are  pro- 
duced in  large  quantities. 

MILL  PRICES 
for  the  ordinary  poplins  have  varied 
somewhat,  partly  through  the  fluctua- 
tion in  demand,  partly  because  of  the 
varying  prices  of  cotton,  and  partly 
because  different  mills  produce  slight- 
ly different  constructions.  The  cloth 
we  have  analyzed  contains  50-2  warp 
instead  of  60-2,  as  is  usually  noted, 
and  this  added  weight  makes  the  cosi 
to  manufacturers  slightly  higher  than 
when  60-2  is  used,  even  though  the 
price  for  50-2  is  less  per  pound  than 
for  60-2.  The  regular  poplin  construc- 
tion with  60-2  warp  has  sold  as  low 
as  9%  cents  per  yard,  and  the  price 
of  101^  cents,  which  we  have  given, 
can  probably  be  bettered  in  a  good 
many  cases,  at  least  when  60-2  is  used 
for  the  warp. 

A  net  profit  of  one  cent  per  yard 
to  the  mill  will  return  a  rate  of  profit 
of  over  15  per  cent,  and  while  fancy 
cloth  profits  have  recently  been  high, 
it  is  not  likely  that  they  will  continue 
so  on  a  staple  construction  such  as 
that  considered.  The  reason  why  the 
net  profit  per  loom  is  so  large  when 
such  a  small  profit  per  yard  is  se- 
cured is  because  the  loom  produces 
a  large  number  of  yards  per  day  or 
per  week,  due  to  the  comparatively 
small  number  of  picks  per  inch. 

YARN   AND    CLOTH   WEIGHTS. 

The  ordinary  poplin  construction, 
such  as  that  considered,  is  a  simple 
fabric  construction,  and  although  the 
threads  and  picks  per  inch,  together 
with  the  yarn  sizes,  bear  no  resem- 
blance to  the  yarn  of  an  ordinary 
print  cloth,  this  method  of  obtaining 
the  weight  of  the  yarn  and  the  yards 
per  pound  is  no  more  complicated.    It 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


49 


is  very  true  that  most  of  the  poplins  through  which  the  warp  yarn  passes, 

sold  contain  very  little  sizing  materi-  and  also  to  the  finishing  of  the  cloth, 

als,  such  as  is  noted  in  a  good  many  of  the  filling  being  used  in  the  loom  as  it 

the  ordinary   print  cloths   when   in  a  comes  from  the  frame,  and  being  cov- 

finished  state,  and  for  this  reason  the  ered  up  by  the  warp,  so  that  the  loss 

finished  weight  of  the  fabric  will  vary  is  not  so  high  as  it  is  on  the  warp 

somewhat  from  print  cloths.  yarn.     The   method   of   obtaining   the 

In    a    general    way    a    poplin    cloth  yarn  and  cloth  weights  is  as  follows: 

will     be     anywhere     from     five     per  2,874  ends  -^   (50/2   x   840)   =  .1369,  warp 

cent     to     ten     per     cent     lighter    when  weight    per    yard    without    take-up. 

finished     than     when     woven.      The      .^fgg^^-l^^^ss  =  .m^' tftai  weight  of  warp 

warp,        which        sizes        in        the        grey  per   yard   of  woven   cloth. 

state    50-2,    will    be    in    the    finished      ^8  Picks  x  2 8 y^- width  in  reed  x  36"   ^  ^^^^ 
cloth  size  about  55-2,  and  in  this  kind  36" 

nf   a    fahnV   the   lns<?   on    the   warn   will  yards  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 

01  a  iduric  me  lobb  011  uie   wdip   wm       ^  ^g^  ^   ^28/i   x   840)   =  .0582,  total  weight 

be  greater  than  the  loss  on  the  filling.         cf  fiiung  per  yard  of  cloth. 

This  is  due  to  the  soft  twist  employed        ■"'^S   +   .0582   =  .2054,   total  weight  per  yard 

and  the  greater  number  of  processes      1  ijooo  %-  .2054  =  4.87  yards  per  ib.  (grey). 

PATTERN. 
•i  2 

■^0/2   Am.   combed   warp   —     2,826     —  =   2,874,   total   onds. 

12  12 

2i-/l  Am.   combed   filling.   48  picks. 

f.ii   reed;    28^:"   width   in   reed;    28"   grey   width;    27"   finished   width. 
102    X    48   grey  count;   106    X    47   finished  count 

YARNS. 

Labor, 

waste,        Twist- 
Cotton,         etc.  ing. 
50/2  Am.  combed  warp.  1  5-16"  staple;  10  hank  dou.  rov.,     21c.          16%c.          2?ic.    =   4014c. 
28/1  Am.  combed  filling,   l%"  staple;  6%  hank  dou.  rov.,       15c.            8V4c.  =   23^40. 

COST. 

2.874  ends  50/2  Am.  combed   -t-   7%  take-up   =   .1472    @    40^c.      =  $  .0593 

48   picks   28/1   Am.   combed   filling =   .0582    @    23Vic.      =  .0136 

Weaving    =  .0074 

Expenses     =  .0080 

*     0883 
Selling    (grey)     !o018 

%   .0901 

Mill   selling  price    (grey) .1050 

Bleaching,    mercerizing  and   finishing .0150 

Cost  to  converter   (not  including  expenses) $  .1200 

Cost   to  jobber    .1350 

Cost  to  retailer    .1750 

Cost  to  consumer    .2500 

Yards  per  pound   4.87    (grey). 
Yards  per  pound  about  5.30  finished. 
Plain   weave. 


"  MOCK-TWIST "  SUITING 

One  line  of  fabrics  which  is  of  in- 
terest at  present  and  which  shows  a 
variation  in  method  of  making  from 
that  ordinarily  noted  is  so-called 
"mock  twist."  Because  of  a  number 
of  reasons,  mixture  fabrics  have  been 
selling  very  well  in  woolen  goods, 
and,  naturally,  it  would  be  expected 
that   similar   effects    would   be   in   de- 


mand when  produced  from  cotton. 
Usually,  when  made  from  cotton, 
cloth  prices  are  comparatively  low, 
and  yarns  are  not  made  of  especially 
good  stock  or  very  fine  sizes,  possibly 
in  the  majority  of  cases  being  between 
lOs-1  and  20s-l  for  both  warp  and  fill- 
ing. These  materials  are  used  for 
dresses  and  other  similar  purposes 
where  a  rather  heavy  colored  fabric 
can  be  used. 


50 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


With  the  exception  of  the  color  ef- 
fect, the  cloth  is  not  unlike  many  of 
the  piece-dyed  cotton  fabrics  which 
are  now  being  sold  in  some  cases  as 
linens.  The  width  of  the  fabric  will 
vary  somewhat,  for  they  are  sold  at 
27  and  32  inches  wide,  although  pos- 
sibly the  largest  portion  is  being  sold 
at  the  wider  width.  Most  of  the 
cloths  are  made  with  a  plain  weave, 
although  in  a  few  cases,  some  of  the 
more  simple  weaves,  such  as  twills, 
baskets  and  sateens  are  used.  For 
the  above  reason,  these  cloths  can 
be  made  on  automatic  looms  with  ad- 
vantage, and  probably  many  of  them 


is  ordinarily  known  as  stoci:  dyeing. 
Inasmuch  as  most  of  the  colors  used 
are  dark  shades  it  is  seldom  that  the 
cotton  fibre  is  bleached  before  dye- 
ing. 

When  the  raw  cotton  has  been  dyed 
it  is  handled  in  the  same  manner  as 
ordinary  raw  cotton,  and  is  drawn 
and  spun  into  roving  of  the  size  de- 
sired, for  the  yarn  in  the  fabric  con- 
sidered the  roving  being  approximate- 
ly 2.50  hank.  The  white  cotton  which 
forms  the  contrast  with  the  darker 
color  is  given  what  is  often  called  a 
half  bleach  before  it  is  handled,  that 
is,    it    is    given    a    processing    which 


"Mock-Twist"  Suiting. 


are  produced  in  this  manner.  Tne  ir- 
regularity of  the  cloth  effect,  due  to 
the  mixture  yarns,  makes  the  standard 
of  quality  somewhat  lower  than  it 
otherwise  would  be,  and  allows  the 
most  ordinary  mills  to  produce  them 
if  their  equipment  is  such  that  they 
can  dye  the  cotton  in  the  raw  state 
before  the  yarn  is  spun. 

In  a  general  way,  the  yarn  as  it 
stands  in  the  cloth  appears  much  the 
same  as  if  it  were  two  colored  yarns 
twisted,  and  because  it  is  not  regular 
two-ply  yarn  it  is  called  "mock  twist," 
so  as  to  distinguish  it.  A  mill  to  be 
able  to  produce  yarn  of  this  charac- 
ter must  have  an  equipment  which 
permits  the  dyeing  of  raw  cotton,  and 


eliminates  a  great  portion  of  the  cot- 
ton color  and  makes  it  seem  white 
when  twisted  with  the  dyed  stock.  The 
white  cotton  is  made  into  the  same  size 
of  roving  as  the  colored  cotton,  and 
after  being  bleached  is  handled  in  ex- 
actly the  same  method.  Up  to  the 
spinning  frame  the  two  kinds  of  cot- 
ton are  kept  separate,  and  care  must 
be  exercised  not  to  have  colored  waste 
or  cotton  fly  become  mixed  with  the 
white  stock. 

Usually,  when  stock-dyed  cotton  is 
being  handled  a  certain  number  of 
cards  and  following  machines  are  kept 
running  on  one  color  continually,  thus 
making  the  problem  somewhat  more 
simple  and  keeping  the  various  cojors 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


51 


from  becoming  mixed.  One  fact  which 
is  noted  is  that  when  stock  dyeing  is 
used  the  fabrics  produced  are  almost 
always  staple  ones,  and  the  range  of 
colors  is  limited,  often  being  as  few 
as  a  half  dozen,  and  not  changing  from 
season  to  season  as  on  other  lines. 
Stock  dyeing  is  used  not  only  for  mix- 
ed fabrics  such  as  that  analyzed,  but 
also  for  many  lines  of  ordinary  ging- 
hans,  drills,  twills,  and,  in  fact,  most 
kinds  of  ordinary  staple  fabrics,  and, 
in  addition,  is  utilized  in  making  a  cer- 
tain class  of  novelty  yarns  which  have 
a  more  or  less  steady  use.  When  the 
dyed  and  bleached  rovings  are  com- 
pleted at  the  fly  frame  they  are  placed 
on  the  spinning  frame,  one  end  of 
color  and  one  end  of  white  stock  be- 
ing placed  together.  The  operation  of 
this  frame  is  no  different  than  in 
ordinary  cases,  and  the  rovings  are 
drawn  out,  this  process  keeping  the 
colors  practically  separate.  The  in- 
sertion of  the  twist  by  the  spindle 
twists  these  two  elongated  roving 
ends  together,  and  inasmuch  as  the 
colors  are  contrasting  ones,  the  ef- 
fect produced  is  not  unlike  a  two-ply 
yarn  made  with  two  colors. 

It  is,  however,  apparent  on  examina- 
tion that  this  "mock-twist"  is  not  so 
regular  as  ordinary  two-ply  yarn,  for 
the  irregularity  of  the  single  yarns 
allows  the  twist  to  run  into  the  fine 
portion  of  the  thread,  resulting  in  an 
uneven  twisted  effect.  Of  course,  this 
running  down  of  twist  would  be  less 
prominent  in  a  better  yarn,  but  for 
the  fabric  considered,  and  for  gener- 
al fabrics  of  this  nature  the  irregular- 
ity of  twist  does  not  make  much  differ- 
ence. The  above  result  is  also  seen 
in  ply  colored  yarns  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent, but  it  is  not  nearly  so  prominent 
as  in  the  stock-dyed  material.  There 
are  certain  advantages  to  be  gained 
by  making  some  fabrics  by  the  "mock- 
twist"  method.  In  the  first  place,  it 
results  in  a  fabric  being  made  from 
single  yarns  instead  of  ply  yarns,  thus 
•  nabling  the  mill  to  produce  a  lighter 
material  and  one  which  has  a  different 
appearance  than  a  ply  yarn  fabric. 

For  another  reason,  it  allows  more 
twist  to  be  introduced  without  making 
a  harsh  cloth  than  if  ply  yarns  were 
placed    in   the    fabric,    thus    giving    a 


better  mottled  effect.  It  also  makes  it 
possible  for  a  mill  which  does  not 
contain  twisting  frames  to  produce 
two-ply  effects,  and,  naturally,  does 
not  upset  the  organization  of  the  plant, 
for  it  allows  the  yarn  sizes  to  be  made 
for  which  the  machinery  is  best 
adapted. 

Possibly,  the  largest  item  of  inter- 
est is  the  fact  that  the  making  of 
"mock-twist"  yarn  results  in  a  colored 
two-ply  effect,  but  at  a  very  much 
lower  cost  than  it  could  otherwise  be 
obtained.  This  statement  is  made 
even  after  due  consideration  has  been 
given  to  the  better  effect  produced  by 
the  use  of  ply  yarns  in  a  fabric.  One 
reason  why  the  cost  is  lower  is  be- 
cause the  charge  for  dyeing  raw  cot- 
ton is  less  than  it  is  for  dyeing  yarns, 
and  the  process  eliminates  many  ex- 
pensive after-processes  which  are  not- 
ed when  yarn  is  dyed.  With  stock- 
dyed  cotton  the  processes  used  in  pro- 
ducing cloth  are  practically  the  same 
as  for  grey  cloth,  that  is,  the  yarn  is 
spun  and  the  warp  is  spooled,  warped 
and  slashed,  while  the  filling  is  ready 
for  the  loom  when  it  comes  from  the 
spinning    frame. 

With  bleached  and  dyed  yarns  the 
method  is  usually  more  extensive  and 
costly,  for  after  the  yarn  has  been 
spun  it  is  spooled,  warped  and  then 
doubled,  making  it  easier  to  handle, 
dyed,  sized  and  then  separated  and 
beamed.  Afterward,  it  is  put  togetli- 
er  in  any  warp  pattern  desired.  The 
filling  is  treated  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  warp,  except  that  it  is  not 
beamed  but  is  quilled  instead.  The 
above  method  applies  to  yarns  which 
are  not  to  be  twisted.  When  colored 
twisted  yarns  are  to  be  produced,  the 
g"ey  spun  yarn  is  often  made  into 
skeins  and  then  dyed,  after  which  it 
is  spooled  and  twisted.  After  the 
twisting  operation,  the  warp  is  spool- 
ed, warped  and  slashed  in  a  method 
similar  to  that  used  on  any  other  ply 
yarn,  while  the  filling  is  spooled,  ball- 
warped  and  quilled.  Often  method? 
are  changed  somewhat  so  as  to  be 
more  economical  for  the  individual 
mill,  but  in  all  cases  the  cost  of  mak- 
ing colored  two-ply  yarns  is  very 
much  higher  than  for  making  the 
"mock-twist"  yarn  which  is  used  in  thr 


6'A 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


fabric  considered.  Without  doubt, 
the  use  of  stock-dyed  yarns  will  in- 
crease quite  a  little,  and  will  ultimate- 
ly form  the  bulk  of  the  materials  used 
in  the  production  of  colored  staple 
fabrics  on  which  the  cloth  construc- 
tion and  colors  change  but  little,  and 
where  profits  are  made  through  eco- 
nomical mill  methods  rather  than 
through  the  fabric  style. 

It  will  readily  be  recognized  that 
the  effect  in  the  cloth  considered  is 
made  almost  entirely  by  the  novelty 
yarn  which  has  been  used,  and  for 
this  reason,  the  cloth  as  it  comes  from 
the  loom  is  practically  ready  for  sale. 
Before  shipment,  however,  it  is  wash- 
ed and  sized,  so  that  it  presents  a 
somewhat  better  appearance.  The 
amount  of  size  or  starch  placed  in  this 
variety  of  cloth  will  vary  according 
to  selling  conditions  and  the  ideas  of 
various  buyers,  but  usually  it  contains 
a  rather  small  amount,  so  that  it  is 
not  too  stiff.  Instead  of  being  folded 
and  sold  in  the  way  most  colored 
cloths  are,  this  material  is  often  sold 
in  the  roll  form.  One  fact  which  is 
particularly  noticeable  on  this  sort  of 
material  is  that  the  reed  marks  are 
quite  prominent,  especially  when  the 
fabric  is  held  up  to  the  light,  and  they 
detract  a  great  deal  from  the  cloth 
appearance.  This  condition  is  almost 
always  apparent  in  fabrics  which  are 
practically  ready  for  sale  as  they 
come  from  the  loom,  but  is  seldom 
noticed  on  cloths  which  have  to  be 
bleached,  dyed  or  finished  after  the 
weaving  operation.  For  this  reason, 
the  last  named  fabrics  usually  have  a 
more  regular  finished  appearance  and 
are   more   desirable  in   some  cases. 

There  has  been  at  certain  times  a 
line  of  printed  fabrics  produced  which 
are  very  similar  to  the  woven  material 
which  we  have  analyzed.  The  ground 
cloth  used  in  such  cases  is  a  grey 
cloth  of  just  about  the  same  construc- 
tion as  the  one  which  has  been  an- 
alyzed and  which  is  first  bleached  and 
then  printed  with  an  irregular  or  all- 
over  pattern  which  closely  resembles 
the  woven  effect  noted  in  this  cloth. 
Naturally,  because  of  manufacturing 
fa^ts,  there  is  not  so  wide  a  difference 
between  the  cost  of  the  printed  and 
dyed   material   as   in   most  fabrics   of 


such  character,  and  for  this  reason, 
buyers  are  apt  to  prefer  the  stock- 
dyed   cloth. 

Because  of  the  appearance  of  the 
fabric  it  would  not  be  expected  that 
it  would  be  sold  at  any  exceptionally 
high  retail  price,  or  compete  in  any 
way  with  the  high-class  novelty  cloths 
now  offered,  but  it  does  offer  quite 
an  attractive  appearance,  and  it  can 
be  sold  so  as  to  allow  a  fair  margin 
of  profit  to  the  various  sellers  and 
also  to  the  mills  which  manufacture 
it.  One  of  these  cloths  is  selling  at 
9i  cents  per  yard  by  the  mill  selling 
house  to  the  jobber.  This  makes  it 
possible  for  the  latter  to  sell  at  about 
lOi  cents  a  yard  to  the  retailer,  who 
can  offer  the  cloth  to  the  consumer  at 
15  cents  a  yard.  Other  similar  fab- 
rics are  being  sold  at  prices  which 
place  them  in  the  19-cent  retail  class, 
but  it  is  probable  that  few  are  selling 
at  any  higher  figures.  Inasmuch  as 
this  cloth  weighs  about  31  yards  per 
pound,  the  mill  selling  price  with 
cloth  at  9|  cents  a  yard,  is  about  36 
cents  a  pound,  a  good  price  when  the 
production  costs  are  compared  with 
ordinary  grey  cloths.  An  analysis  of 
the  fabric  shows  the  following  de- 
tails: 

Cloth   width   finished,    32". 
5Varp   count   finished,    40". 
Filling  count   finished,    34". 
threads    in    warp    2/8—1    262—2/8     =     1,294 

total    ends. 
Warp   size    12/1    "mock   twist." 
Filling  size  12/1   "mock  twist."' 
W^idth   in  the   reed,    35%". 
Reed,    18    (2    ends   per   dent.) 
Warp    take-up.    7%. 
Warp  weight  per  yard,    .1380 
Filling  weight  per  yard,  .1197 
Yards    per    pound,    3.88 
Plain   weave. 

The  standard  of  twist  in  the  filling 
in  many  of  these  cloths  is  about  the 
same  as  it  is  for  the  warp  yarn  used. 
This  makes  a  stronger  filling,  which, 
of  course,  is  not  at  all  necessary,  but 
it  also  makes  the  filling  effect  the 
same  as  that  of  the  warp  yarn,  often 
a  more  important  feature  in  some  ma- 
terials, although  it  is  not  always  not- 
ed and  not  entirely  necessary.  Dur- 
ing the  last  year  or  so  all  kinds  of 
special  yarn  effects  have  been  in  de- 
mand for  the  making  of  cloths,  not 
only  when  colors  are  used  but  also 
when   irregular  effects  such  as  those 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARV 


6S 


Used  in  eponge  are  considered,  and  it 
is  very  likely  that  the  making  of  spe- 
cial cloths  or  constructions  has  com- 
pelled manufacturers  to  realize  that 
there  are  unlimited  possibilities  in 
the  making  of  cloth,  which,  up  to  the 
present  have  hardly  been  attempted, 
but  which  will  receive  a  great  deal 
more  attention  in  the  future.  The  ob- 
taining of  experience  is  bound  to  show 
in  the  quality  or  variety  of  fabrics 
produced  in  domestic  mills,  in  fact, 
it  is  already  noticeable  in  the  greater 
variety  and  more  attractive  appear- 
ance of  the  fabrics  now  offered,  and 
in  the  profits  which  are  being  secur- 
ed in  their  making. 

It  has  already  been  noted  that  the 
quality  of  the  yarn  used  in  a  good 
many  fabrics  similar  to  that  analyzed 
is  not  especially  high,  and  is,  there- 
fore, made  in  a  manner  to  result  in  a 
low  cost  of  production.  A  good  many 
coarse  yarns  of  the  sizes  used  in  the 
cloth  are  made  from  single  roving  on 
a  spinning  frame,  but  this  method  is 
impossible  for  the  yarn  considered, 
for  it  is  necessary  to  have  double  rov- 
ing on  the  spinning  frame,  so  as  to 
obtain  the  twisted  effect.  When  sin- 
gle roving  is  used,  it  is  possible  to 
make  yarn  of  the  sizes  considered 
with  two  processes  of  fly  frames,  but 
when  double  roving  is  used  on  the 
spinning  frame  it  woi.ld  be  necessary 
to  have  three  procesfj-es  of  fly  frames, 
so  as  to  obtain  practical  m:  nufactur- 
ing  conditions.  One  l^.yout  for  12s-l 
warp,  which  may  give  a  general  idea 
as  to  the  draft  and  sizes  at  the  va- 
rious frames,  is  as  follows: 

12/1  carded   "mock  twist"   warp. 
I   yd.    =    .6944        grs. 

.0098        2%   contraction   in   twist. 

.6805 

9V4   spinning    frame    draft. 


6.46  -H  2   =  3.23   =  2.58  hank  roving. 
5  fine    frame    draft. 


16.15  -V-  2    =    8.08    =    1.03  hank  roving. 
4^4    Intermediate    frame    draft. 


34.34-^2   =    17.17    =  .48  hank  roving. 
3%   slubber  frame  draft. 


65   grains    finisher    drawing    sliver. 
65   grains   card   sliver. 
95  card  draft. 
14   oz.   lap. 

The       method       of     obtaining     the 
weights  of  the  yarn  per  yard  of  cloth 


is  exactly  the  same  as  for  any  or- 
dinary grey  or  colored  fabr'-.  When 
the  material  contains  any  size  or  fill- 
ing, it  should  be  eliminated  by  wash- 
ing or  boiling,  but  care  should  be  ex- 
ercised in  obtaining  the  take-ups  be- 
fore the  boiling  out  process,  as  the 
fabric  may  shrink  quite  a  little  when 
treated  in  a  small  piece.  One  fact 
which  is  often  of  importance  is  that 
stock-dyed  yarns  are  not  likely  to  be 
lighter,  in  the  cloth  than  they  are 
when  they  come  from  the  spinning 
room,  a  condition  which  is  often  not- 
ed, sometimes  to  an  excessive  degree, 
on  yarns  which  are  dyed  after  they 
are  spun  and  handled  in  a  number  of 
processes.  Dyed  yarns  have  never 
been  considered  light  enov~h  when 
compared  with  the  sizes  of  the  yarn 
as  they  come  rrom  the  spinning  frame. 
The  process  for  the  fabric  considered 
is  as   follows: 

1.294   ends   H-    (12/1    X    840)    =   .1283.   weight 

of  warp  yarn  per  yard   without  take-up. 
7%    take-up   in   weaving. 
.1283    -=-    .93    =    .1380,    total    weight   of   warp 

yarn  per  yard  of  woven  cloth. 

34     picks     X     35^"     width     in     reed X  _36^ 

36" 

=  1,207  yards  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
1,207   -T-    (12/1    X    840)    =   .1197.    total  weight 

of   filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 
.1380   -f-   .1197   =  .2577,  total  weight  per  yard. 
1.0000    H-   .2577    =   3.88   yards   per   lb. 


■***■ 


PRINTED  SILKALINE 

There  is  one  line  of  fabrics  which 
has  a  more  or  less  regular  sale,  and 
which,  for  a  number  of  reasons,  is  of 
much  interest.  This  is  the  fabric 
which  is  known  as  silkaline,  although 
it  must  be  admitted  that  the  count  and 
yarns  used  in  producing  it  will  vary 
to  quite  an  extent.  In  a  general  way 
the  material  is  of  a  light  character, 
usually  weighing  more  than  eight 
yards  per  pound  in  36-inch  cloth  and 
in  the  majority  of  cases  probably 
between  10  and  11  yards  per  pound 
in  the  grey  state.  The  effects 
produced  on  the  cloth  are  made  en- 
tirely by  the  finishing  process  and 
consist  largely  of  floral  patterns,  oft- 
en in  quite  a  number  of  colors. 

Styles  of  figures  and  the  colors 
used  will  change  somewhat,  but  the 
distribution   of   these   lines   offers  op- 


54 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


portunities  which  are  not  noted  in 
many  of  the  higher  priced  fabrics  for 
building  up  an  output  and  a  reputa- 
tion. Silkalines  are  used  for  a  wide 
variety  of  coverings,  and  recently 
printed  cloth  coverings  have  been  ap- 
plied to  articles  never  before  treated 
in  such  a  manner,  thus  giving  a  large- 
ly increased  sale.  They  are  used  for 
curtains,  a  certain  range  of  styles  for 
drapery  purposes,  portieres,  and,  in 
fact,  for  any  use  where  a  light  fabric  is 
suitable,  but  one  which  has  desirable 
decorations  and  can  be  purchased  at 
a  relatively  low  price.  There  is  much 
which    might    be    said    regarding    the 


paratively  few,  and  when  plain  weave 
is  used  the  greatest  arnount  of  cloth 
firmness  is  obtained.  Plain  weave  is 
also  used,  because  any  woven  effect 
is  not  very  prominent  when  fine  or 
comparatively  fine  yarns  are  used 
in  making  the  cloth,  and  would 
be  a  waste  of  effort,  because  it  would 
increase  the  cost  of  making  with 
very  little  advance  in  style,  and 
in  addition  the  printing  operation  is 
very  likely  to  cover  up  and  render 
valueless  any  patterns  which  may  be 
woven.  Inasmuch  as  plain  weave  is 
used  almost  entirely,  this  cloth  can 
lie  made  successfully  on  an  automatic 


Printed   Silkaline. 


producing  of  the  patterns  which  are 
Lised  on  this  style  of  cloth,  but  they 
a:  e  laigely  ornamental  ones,  and  their 
beauty  depends  upon  the  adaptability 
and  a. so  upon  the  blending  of  the  col- 
o;  s  to  produce  the  desired  effect. 

Sometimes  the  use  of  one  color 
which  does  not  harmonize  with  the 
others  may  render  undesirable  an 
otherwise  beautiful  result,  so  a  good 
many  features  must  be  considered  in 
this  style  of  cloth  which  are  seldom 
thought  of  when  woven  effects  are  be- 
ing made. 

iho  foundation  cloth' which  is  used 
in  the  production  of  silkaline  is  most 
always  made  with  plain  weaves.  This 
is  necessary,  because  the  number  of 
threads  and  picks  per  inch  are  corn- 


loom,  although,  for  various  reasons, 
some  mills  have  never  adopted  them. 
Of  course,  there  is  not  so  much  sav- 
ing through  the  use  of  automatic 
looms  on  fine  as  there  is  on  coarse 
cloth,  but  with  competition  as  keen  as 
it  is  to-day,  every  new  appliance  which 
brings  about  economy  must  be  used  or 
profits  are  likely  to  be  small  and  ir- 
regular. The  reason  fine  cloth  is 
not  made  as  successfully  as  coarse  on 
an,  automatic  loom  is  because  fine 
warp  is  not  so  strong  as  coarse  and 
will  break  more  easily,  thus  causing 
a  loss  of  production.  Fine  cloth  usu- 
ally contains  a  large  number  of 
threads  per  inch,  thus  increasing  the 
number  of  stops  per  loom.  Automatic 
loom  warps  must  be  made  strong,  so 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


65 


as  to  have  few  breakages  if  the  great- 
est advantage  is  to  be  obtained  from 
the  automatic  filling  or  shuttle-chang- 
ing attachment. 

Practically  all  the  fabrics  which  are 
used  in  the  production  of  silkalines 
are  made  from  grey  yarns,  a  fact 
which  results  in  the  lowest  possible 
cost  of  production.  Fabrics  are  pro- 
duced both  from  carded  and  from 
combed  yarns,  the  price  varying  ac- 
cording to  the  kind  of  yarns  used,  the 
cloth  construction  purchased  and  the 
demand  noted  at  any  particular  time. 
One  construction,  which  is  used  exten- 
sively is  72  X  60,  containing  50-1  warp 
and  80-1  filling,  and  weighing  about 
ten  yards  per  pound  in  the  grey  state. 
The  price  for  a  combed  cloth  of  this 
character  is  likely  to  be  somewhere  in 
the  vicinity  of  5  to  5%  cents  per  yard, 
while  that  of  a  carded  one  is  likely  to 
be  about  4%  cents  per  yard,  although 
sales  have  been  made  at  various  times 
at  much  below  these  figures. 

The  fabric  which  we  have  analyzed  is 
somewhat  similar  to  the  one  previous- 
ly mentioned,  inasmuch  as  the  warp 
contains  the  same  number  of  threads 
per  inch  and  the  yarns  are  very  sim- 
ilar, although  the  picks  per  inch  are 
slightly  less. 

The  details  regarding  this  cloth  are 
as  follows: 

Width    of    cloth    finished    36    inches. 

Width   of  cloth   grey   36   inches. 

Width    of    warp    in    the    reed    38    inches. 

Threads   per    inch    finished    72. 

Threads  per  inch  grey   72. 

Picks  per  inch   finished   52. 

Picks  per   inch  grey   51. 

Threads    in    warp    2/10    2,564    2/10    =    2,604. 

total    ends. 
Reed    34    (2    ends   per   dent). 
Warp   size    50/1   carded. 
Filling   size   75/1    carded. 
Warp    take-up    4%. 
Warp   weight  .0646   per  yard. 
Filling  weight  .0314  per  yard. 
Yards   per   pound    10.42    grey. 

Inasmuch  as  the  grey  cloth  is  more 
or  less  of  a  staple  fabric,  there  is  a 
good  deal  of  competition  among  the 
mills  which  produce  it  and  profits  are 
regulated  somewhat  by  the  economy 
which  is  practiced  in  the  manufactur- 
ing processes.  The  yarns  used  are 
about  as  fine  as  can  be  produced  sat- 
isfactorily from  carded  stock,  and  the 
labor  cost  will  vary  to  a  much  great- 
er extent  than  in  the  coarser  lines. 
Not  only  will  i.he  labor  costs  vary,  but 


the  stock  used  will  also  differ,  partly 
because  of  the  machinery  available 
and  partly  because  of  the  quality  of 
the  fabric  desired. 

The  warp  is  usually  of  coarser  size 
than  the  filling,  for  such  a  Tnethod 
allows  it  to  be  handled  more  satisfac- 
torily, while  the  filling  is  ready  for  use 
when  the  spinning  operation  is  com- 
pleted and  can  be  made  into  finer  yarn 
from  the  same  length  of  cotton  sta- 
ple. This  same  condition  is  noted  on 
a  large  proportion  of  ordinary  print 
cloths,  for  although  warp  and  filling 
are  made  of  the  same  cotton,  the  size 
of  the  warp  is  less  than  that  of  the 
filling,  being  30-1  for  warp  and  38-1 
for  filling.  Probably  both  warp  and 
filling  for  this  cloth  would  be  pro- 
duced from  cotton,  which  is  about  one 
and  one-quarter  inches  in  length,  al- 
though the  staple  used  for  a  plain 
fabric  is  somewhat  shorter  than  for 
one  which  has  any  special  features. 

A  general  idea  regarding  the  mill 
layout  for  making  these  yarns  may  be 
obtained  from  the  following  schedule: 

50/1   carded    warp. 
.1667   grains   per   yard. 

.98   2%    contraction   in   twist. 


.1634 

10  spinning  frame  draft. 


1.634   -H   2   =  .817   =   10.2  hank  roving 
6.6  jack    frame    draft. 


5.39    -f-   2   =  2.70   =   3.08  hank  roving. 
5.5  second   intermediate   frame   draft. 


H-   2   =   7.43   =   1.12  hank  roving, 
first    Intermediate     frame     draft. 


14.85 
4.4 

32.69 
3.7 

60 
45 
12 

75/1 
.1111 

.98 

.1089 
9 

.9801 
6.9 

3.38 

5.9 


-^   2  =  16.35   =  .51   hank  roving, 
slubber   frame   draft. 

grains    finisher    drawing    sliver, 
grains    card    sliver, 
oz.    lap. 

carded    filling. 

grains    per   yard. 

2%    contraction   in   twist. 


spinning    frame    draft. 


~-    2    =    .Mf    =    17    hank    roving, 
jack   frame   draft. 


-^    2   =   1.69   =   4.93  hank   roving, 
second  intermediate  frame  draft. 


9.97    -i-   2   =  4.99   =   1.67  hank  roving. 
5.3   first    intermediate    frame    draft. 


26.44    -f-   2    =  13.22    =   .63   hank  roving. 
4.5  slubber  frame  draft. 


60   grains    finisher    drawing 
45   grains    card    sliver. 
12  oz.    lap. 


56 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Naturally  en  any  carded  yarns  as 
fine  as  those  used  there  must  be  as 

MUCH  CARE  EXERCISED 

in  mixing  the  cotton  bales  and  in  hav- 
ing the  machinery  in  good  operating 
condition  as  there  would  be  if  combed 
yarn  were  to  be  produced.  The 
use  of  a  cotton  which  is  too  short 
or  excessive  drafts  on  any  frame  will 
probably  handicap  the  weave  room  se- 
riously and  make  the  percentage  of 
production  in  that  department  decline 
radically,  and  will  ultimately  affect 
the  cost  of  production  more  than  if 
a  reasonable  policy  had  been  adopted 
in  the  yarn  making. 

Some  manufacturers  prefer  to  use 
but  two  processes  of  pickers  when 
yarn  of  this  character  is  being  made, 
mainiy  because  the  longer  staple  cot- 
ton is  not  so  dirty  and  a  smaller 
amount  of  beating  is  likely  to  pre- 
serve the  fibre  length  better.  As 
evenness  is  largely  responsible  for 
yarn  strength  the  number  of  doublings 
is  increased  over  that  of  the  yarns 
used  in  many  ordinary  cloths,  for 
there  are  three  processes  of  drawing, 
and  practically  always  four  processes 
of  fly  frames. 

Single  roving  is  never  used  on  the 
spinning  frame,  as  yarn  made  in  this 
manner  would  not  be  sufficiently 
strong.  When  automatic  looms  are 
in  use  it  is  a  good  policy  to  use  a 
somewhat  better  quality  of  cotton  as 
this  method  will  increase  the  weav- 
ing production,  although  mere  is  a 
certain  point  where  the  higher  cost 
of  cotton  will  more  than  onset  the 
added  loom  production.  The  card 
production  is  decreased  so  that  it  is 
not  over  three-quarters  as  much  as 
when  making  many  ordinary  carded 
yarns,  oftentimes  the  production  be- 
ing about  85  to  90  pounds  per  day. 

FINISHING. 

The  fabric  as  received  by  the  fin- 
ishing works  is  in  what  is  called  the 
grey  state;  that  is,  the  cloth  is  prac- 
tically the  same  as  the  cotton  when 
received  Pt  the  mill,  except  that  it 
is  a  different  state,  being  cloth  instead 


of  raw  cotton.  Fabrics  such  as  that 
considered  are  not  generally  finished 
by  the  mill  which  produces  them,  but 
by  a  party  usually  called  a  converter, 
who  obtains  a  price  from  the  various 
finishers  for  accomplishing  the  work, 
and  who  afterwards  sells  the  goods. 
Some  finishers  also  act  in  the  same 
capacity  as  a  converter,  for  they  pur- 
chase the  grey  cloth  from  mills  and 
finish  it  as  they  themselves  desire, 
and  then  sell  to  the  jobber  in  a  meth- 
od very  similar  to  that  of  the  con- 
verter. 

Naturally,  on  some  lines  the  finish- 
er, when  he  acts  as  a  converter,  has 
a  certain  advantage  over  the  ordinary 
converter,  although  on  other  lines  this 
is  not  so  evident.  The  cloth  is  first 
boiled  off  and  bleached  so  that  the 
size,  cotton  wax  and  other  impurities 
present  will  be  removed.  When  the 
cloth  is  in  the  white  state  or  practi- 
cally similar  to  many  low  count  lawns 
or  like  fabrics,  it  is  subjected  to  a 
further  process  which  consists  of  run- 
ning through  a  printing  machine, 
which  machine  places  upon  the  fabric 
the  colored  pattern  which  is  desired. 

Each  different  figured  pattern  pro- 
duced has  to  have  a  separate  set  of 
rolls.  These  rolls  are  compos- 
ed of  copper  and  the  pat- 
tern is  engraved  on  them, 
the  sunken  portion  containing  the  col- 
or, and,  by  contact,  the  cloth  as  it 
passes  over  the  roll  takes  up  the 
color.  Instead  of  the  dyestuff  being 
in  a  liquid  state,  as  in  the  ordinary 
ayelng  operation,  it  is  thickened  with 
various  gums  and  starches  and  made 
up  into  a  paste  form  so  that  when 
taken  up  by  the  copper  roll  it  will 
remain  in  the  engraved  portion.  Ex- 
cess color  paste  is  removed  from  the 
roll  before  it  comes  in  contact  with 
the  cloth  by  a  finely  ground  knife 
edge.  Bach  color  on  the  cloth  is  rep- 
resented by  a  separate  roll  in  the  ma- 
chine; that  is,  for  a  pattern  with  five 
colors  employed  there  would  be  five 
rolls  used,  each  roll  being  engraved 
for  the  portion  of  the  pattern  where 
its  color  is  used,  with  a  suflicient  al- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


57 


lowance  for  the  spread  of  the  color 
paste  when  it  is  taken  up  by  the  fab- 
ric. 

After  the  printing  process  the  colors 
which  are  placed  upon  the  cloth  are 
set  so  as  to  make  them  satisfactory 
for  wear,  the  method  of  setting  de- 
pending on  the  colors  used.  As  a 
last  process,  before  folding,  packing 
and  shipping,  the  cloth  is  subjected  to 
a  heavy  calendering  process,  which 
imparts  to  the  cloth  the  glazed  sur- 
face which  reflects  the  light  and 
makes  the  fabric  have  a  silk-like  lus- 
tre. Of  course,  this  glazed  surface 
and  lustre  is  not  permanent,  but  it 
serves  to  make  the  fabric  surface 
smoother  and  very  much  less  likely  to 
soil. 

PRICES. 

As  stated  previously,  there  is  quite 
a  little  competition  on  these  fabrics, 
not  only  among  the  grey  cloth  makes, 
but  also  among  the  parties  who  dis- 
tribute them  in  the  finished  state. 
The  72x60  ten-yard  combed  regular 
grey  goods  have  been  sold  at  a  com- 
paratively recent  date  for  4i^  cents 
per  yard,  although  the  quoted  price 
is  somewhat  higher.  The  price  for 
finishing  will  vary  in  the  different 
plants  and  also  according  to  the  kind 
of  pattern  and  number  of  colors  used. 
For  an  ordinary  printed  fabric  sim- 
ilar to  that  analyzed,  and  which  con- 
tains no  special  features,  the  entire 
finishing  price  is  about  one  and  one- 
quarter  cents  per  yard  for  patterns  in 
which  two  colors  are  used,  one  and 
one-half  cents  per  yard  for  patterns 
in  which  four  colors  are  used,  one 
and  three-quarters  cents  per  yard  for 
patterns  in  which  six  colors  are  used, 
and  two  cents  per  yard  for  practically 
all  other  styles.  Some  finishers  add 
one-eighth  of  a  cent  per  yard  for  each 
additional  color,  beginning  at  one  and 
one-quarter  cents  for  two-color  work. 

On  this  basis  the  cost  of  finishing 
the  cloth  considered  would  be  one  and 
three-quarters  cents  per  yard.  It  often 
is  the  case  that  an  overall  price  is 
made  to  cover  the  selection  made  for 
the  entire  order,  which  is,  perhaps, 
a  more  satisfactory  method  for  many 
cloths,    inasmuch    as    the     converter 


usually  sells  the  whole  color  line  at 
a  regular  set  price,  making  no  differ- 
ence in  price  in  regard  to  the  number 
of  colors  used  in  the  pattern.  The 
jobber's  purchase  price  is  usually 
about  seven  and  one-half  cents  per 
yard,  and  in  some  cases  the  fabric  i» 
sold  to  the  retailer  at  from  eight  and 
one-half  cents  to  eigh  and  three- 
quarters   cents  per  yard. 

The  retail  price  in  a  good  many  in- 
stances is  12  or  121/^  cents  per  yard, 
and  in  some  cases  15  cents  per  yard 
is  asked,  this  mainly  because  mate- 
rial is  sold  in  the  upholstery  depart- 
ment, where  the  cost  of  selling  is 
rather  high  and  where  excessive  prof- 
its are  sometimes  made.  There  is 
very  little  reason  why  fabrics  such 
as  that  analyzed  should  carry  any 
higher  profits  than  the  ordinary  dress 
goods,  for  the  distribution  is  just 
about  as  large  as  for  dress  goods, 
and  the  actual  costs  of  selling  no 
higher,  but  in  most  cases  the  profit 
is  somewhat  higher,  the  extra  gain 
being  obtained  by  the  retailer  alone 
and  not  by  the  jobber  or  converter. 

An  examination  of  the  cost  as  giv- 
en will  make  the  prices  and  ranges 
of  profits  of  the  various  sellers  clear- 
er. An  analysis  of  a  fabric  such  as 
that  considered  is  not  at  all  diffi- 
cult. It  should  be  remembered  that 
the  yarn  is  finer  when  the  cloth  is 
sold  than  when  the  yarn  was  spun. 
The  warp  is  likely  to  be  from  5  per 
cent  to  ten  per  cent  finer,  depending 
on  the  amount  of  size  in  the  finished 
cloth,  while  the  filling  Is  not  likely 
to  lose  quite  so  much  weight  as  the 
warp,  due  to  less  handling  and  stretch- 
ing of  the  cloth  in  making  and  finish- 
ing. The  method  of  obtaining  the 
yarn  and  cloth  weights  for  the  fabric 
considered  is  as  follows: 

2.604   ends   -=-    (.50/1    X    840)    =   .0620.   weight 

of    warp    per    yard    without    take-up. 
4%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0620    -f-    .96    =    .0646    total    weight    of   warp 

per    yard    of    woven    cloth. 
52  picks  X  38"  width  In  reed  X  36" 

=     1.976 

36" 

yards   of    filling   per   yard    of   cloth. 
1,976    -i-    (75/1    X     840)     =    .0314,    weight    o 

filling   per   yard   of  cloth. 
.u64ti   -f  .0814   =  .0960,  total  weight  per  yard 
1.0000   -i-  .0960   =  10.42  yards  per  lb.    (grey) 


68 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

50/1  Am.   carded  warp  —     2,564     —  =  2,604,   total  ends. 

10  10 

75/1  Am.  carded  filling,  52  picks. 

34  reed,    38"  width  in   reed,   36"  grey  width,   36"  finished  width. 
72  X    52  grey  count;  72   X    51  finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton.  waste,   etc. 

50/1  Am.  carded  warp;  1%"  staple;   10  hank  dou.   rov.,        19c.  ll%c.  =     30^*0 

75/1  Am.  carded  filling;   1V4"  staple  19c.  15%c.  =     34^c. 

COST. 

2,604  ends  50/1  Am.  carded  warp  +   4%   take-up   =   .0646    @    3034c =  $  .Olyd 

62  picks  75/1   Am.   carded  filling                                    =   .0314    @    34 %c =  .0108 

Weaving    =  .003(5 

Expenses    =  .0046 

S     0389 
Selling    (grey)     .0008 

$  .0397 

Price    to    buyer    (about) .0425 

Cost  of  bleaching,  printing,   etc .0175 

Cost  to  converter  (not  including  expenses) $  .0600 

Cost  to  jobber    (about) .0750 

Cost   to    retailer    (about) .0875 

Cost    to    consumer .1250 

Yards  per  pound  10.42   (grey). 
Plain   weave. 


CREPE  WEAVE  FABRIC 

It  is  generally  well  known  in  the 
cotton  goods  trade  that  crepe  fabrics 
have  been  in  very  good  demand,  and 
that  quite  large  quantities  are  being 
sold  at  present,  and,  in  addition,  that 
there  will  be  a  more  or  less  general 
sale  of  such  materials  in  succeeding 
seasons,  although,  of  course,  the 
amount  sol-d  will  ciepend  a  good  deal 
upon  the  varying  conditions  of  the 
market.  Most  of  such  crepe  fabrics 
are  produced  through  the  use  of  hard- 
twisted  yarn,  usually  the  filling,  and 
being  woven  in  a  few  instances  on  an 
ordinary  loom,  and  in  the  large  ma- 
jority of  cases  produced  on  a  box 
loom,  especially  those  fabrics  which 
are  considered  high  class  and  which 
are  sold  for  high  prices.  Of  course, 
crepe  fabrics  in  which  hard-twisted 
yarn  has  been  used  do  sometimes  have 
woven  figures  placed  upon  them,  but 
because  of  the  method  of  production 
the  cloth  weave  is  practically  always 
plain  or  at  least  very  simple,  the  cloth 
effect  being  developed  entirely  by  the 
yarns. 

The  use  of  hard-twisted  yarn  is, 
however,   not    the    only    method    by 


which  a  crepe  effect  can  be  obtained, 
for  they  are  sometimes  made  through 
the  fabric  weave  and  with  regular 
yarns,  that  is,  yarns  in  which  no  ex- 
tra twist  has  been  inserted.  Naturally, 
a  fabric  which  is  made  with  a  crepe 
weave  does  not  appear  very  similar  to 
a  fabric  made  with  crepe  yarn,  but 
the  irregularity  is  present  in  both 
styles,  and  for  general  use  it  is  prob- 
ably true  that  the  crepe  weave  gives 
a  better  result  on  medium  or  heavy 
weight  fabrics,  while  the  crepe  yarn 
is  unquestionably  better  on  the  lighter 
materials;  in  fact,  a  crepe  weave  is  of 
little  value  in  many  fine  cloths,  inas- 
much as  woven  figures  do  not  show  up 
well  when  fine  yarns  are  used.  Both 
kinds  of  crepe  fabrics  are  used  for 
dresses,  waists  and  similar  purposes, 
and  are  finished  in  the  various  popu- 
lar colors.  A  feature  worth  mention- 
ing is  that  the  printed  styles  of  the 
same  fabric  are  being  used  for  trim- 
ming purposes  on  the  solid  colors, 
and  because  the  styles  of  printed  pat- 
terns contain  colors  which  are  in  de 
mand  to-day  they  are  having  quite  a 
distribution  for  the  above  purpose. 

As  previously  stated,  yarns  used  in 
the  fabrics  considered  are  no  dilTerent 
than  in  many  ordinary  cloths.    A  per- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


59 


tion  of  the  cloth  was  originally  made 
of  two-ply  yarn,  and  subsequently  the 
filling  was  changed  to  single  yarn 
with .  the  warp  remaining  of  tw-o-ply, 
and  later  the  entire  cloth  has  been 
made  from   single  yarns. 

The  two-ply  cloths  appear  to  be 
made  of  combed  stock,  but  at  least 
some  of  the  single  yarn  fabrics  are 
made  from  carded  yarns  or  from  yarns 
which  are  no  better  than  many  mills 
can  and  do  produce  from  carded  stock. 
The  reason  why  two-ply  yarns  are 
used  is  because  the  fabric  is  piece 
mercerized  and  because  they  allow  a 
softer  twist  to  be  use!  with  a  better 


in  the  ply-yarn  material,  while  20s-l 
is  used  in  the  single  yarn  fabrics.  The 
count  is  about  84  by  53  in  the  finished 
cloth,  the  exact  amount  varying  some- 
what through  the  yarns  used  and  the 
method  of  finishing.  The  yards  per 
pound  in  the  grey  cloth  are  about  4.25. 
The  more  nearly  parallel  cotton  fibres 
are  in  yarn  or  cloth  the  more  lustrous 
tlie  material  is  likely  to  be  when  it  is 
finished  by  mercerization,  and  one  rea- 
son why  a  crepe  weave  will  not  be  so 
silky  in  appearance  as  a  soiesette  con- 
struction even  though  the  yarns  be  of 
equal  quality  in  both  fabrics  is  the 
irregular  nature  of  the  weave  in  one 


One  of  the  Crepe  Weave   Fabrics. 


lustre  when  finishei  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  is  noted  in  the  ordinary 
two-ply  warp  £.nd  single  filling  mer- 
cerized poplin  which  is  having  such  a 
large  sale  at  present.  A  comparison 
of  the  two-ply  fabric  with  the  single- 
ply  cloth  shows  that  the  change  lias 
not  been  of  advantage  if  appearance 
be  considered.  Of  course,  if  the  crepe 
effect  is  the  desirable  feature  of  the 
cloth,  and  if  a  good  volume  of  sales 
can  be  made  in  the  single  yarn  mate- 
rial, then  it  is  naturally  good  policy 
to  sell  the  single  yarn  cloth,  for  it  can 
be  purchased  at  a  lower  price,  and 
therefore  allows  a  wider  margin  of 
profit  at  the  same  selling  price. 

The  yarn  used  in  the  cloth  is  40s-2 


cloth   and   the   regular  appearance   in 
the  other. 

The  kind  of  weave  which  is  employ 
ed  in  this  fabric  is  often  used  for  many 
styles  of  shirting  fabrics,  and  is  also 
used  extensively  in  certain  kinds  of 
dress  materials.  If  there  is  no  great 
objection  to  a  certain  amount  of  regu 
larity  in  weave  it  is  customary  to  pro- 
duce the  effect  on  a  dobby  loom,  and 
where  a  fabric  contains  stripes  of  any 
nature  this  method  is  found  very  sat- 
isfactory, for  the  stripes  partially 
eliminate  the  weave  defects.  Then  it 
is  sometimes  the  practice  to  combine 
a  number  of  simple  weaves  in  an  ir- 
regular manner,  thus  making  an  ir- 
regular weave,  and,  in  addition,  to  use 


60 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


an  irregular  drawing-in  draft  on  the 
warp.  This  method  partially  elimi- 
nates the  difficulties,  but  there  are 
likely  to  be  so-called  patterns  even 
when  such  a  weave  is  made,  and  these 
are  rather  undesirable  in  a  fabric  such 
as  that  considered,  and,  in  addition, 
the  making  of  a  crepe  pattern  with 
an  irregular  drawing-in  draft  on  a 
dobby  loom  is  likely  to  cause  much 
trouble  at  the  mill,  and  is  avoided  by 
the  manufacturer  whenever  pos- 
sible. For  the  above  reason,  many 
woven  crepe  effects  are  produced  on  a 
jacquard  loom,  and  this  has  been  done 
m  the  present  weave. 

The  effect  produced  on  a  jacquard 
loom,  through  the  great  number  of 
harnesses  and  the  width  of  the  pat- 
tern, tends  to  eliminate  the 
irregularities  of  weave  so  that 
there  are  no  long  floats  in  the 
warp  or  in  the  filling.  A  crepe  weave, 
to  be  very  desirable,  must  be  made 
with  comparatively  short  floats  and 
still  contain  very  little  plain  weave  in 
order  to  produce  the  irregularity 
which  is  desired.  It  is  claimed  that 
this  fabric  was  developed  in  one'  of 
the  mills  of  the  Southern  states,  and 
because  of  the  wide  distribution  which 
the  fabric  nas  had,  at  least  four  or 
five  other  mills,  some  in  the  North 
and  others  in  the  South,  have  been 
producing  it.  Without  doubt,  the  fact 
that  not  all  fancy  mills  contain  twist- 
ing spindles  may  account  for  a  portion 
of  the  cloth  being  made  from  single 
instead  of  two-ply  yarn. 

Sometimes  the  production  of  large 
amounts  of  two-ply  cloth  tends  to  up- 
set a  mill  organization,  and  for  this 
reason,  it  is  sometimes  impossible  to 
obtain  two-ply  fabrics  in  the  quanti- 
ties desired,  especially  when  two-ply 
cloths  are  being  sold  in  quantities. 
Jacquard  patterns  have  been  very 
good  sellers  on  other  fabrics,  and  mills 
containing  jacquard  looms  have  been 
pretty  well  supplied  with  orders,  thus 
making  it  necessary  to  place  contracts 
with  different  mills  in  order  to  obtain 
the  total  amount  of  cloth  necessary. 

PRICES  AND   PROFITS. 

The  grey  cloths  used  in  the  produc 
tion  of  the  f.nished  m-^terials  are  now 
being  sold  at  about  9J  cents  a  yard  by 


the  mills,  and  as  these  single  yari. 
fabrics  are  being  finished  and  sold 
along  with  the  two-ply  article,  and  at 
the  same  price,  a  few  statements  re 
gar-ding  the  profits  being  secured  may 
be  of  interest. 

For  the  single  yarn  fabric  it  will  be 
noted  from  our  analysis  of  cost  that 
the  net  mill  cost  in  the  grey  state  is 
about  84  cents  a  yard,  and  as  the  mill 
selling  price  is  about  9i  cents  a  yard, 
the  profit  to  the  mill  is  about  1  cent  a 
yard.  With  a  reasonable  loom  produc 
tion  the  net  profit  per  year  to  the  mill 
would  be  about  $102  per  loom.  This 
amount  will  return  a  profit  of  about 
10  to  12  per  cent,  depending  on  the 
mill  organization,  which  is  not  an  ex 
orbitant  profit,  when  the  facts  of  dis- 
tribution and  profits  being  secured  on 
grey  cloths  of  the  heavier  grades  are 
considered.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  mill  is  not  obtaining  any  exor- 
bitant profits,  and  the  cloth  is  being 
purchased  by  the  converter  at  a  rea- 
sonable price. 

PRICE  FOR  BLEACHING 

The  price  for  bleaching,  merceriz- 
ing and  dyeing,  including  the  casing, 
etc.,  is  not  over  1^^  cents  per  yard. 
Where  the  cloth  is  printed  in  addition, 
the  price  is  about  2i^  cents  per  yard. 
This  makes  the  plain  materials  cost 
the  converter  about  10%  cents  per 
yard,  without  including  his  various 
selling  charges.  These  are  not  likely 
to  be  much  over  10  per  cent  of  the 
cost  of  the  goo-ds,  but,  allowing  about 
12  per  cent  or  H  cents  per  yard,  tue 
total  cost  to  the  converter  would  be 
approximately  12  cents  a  yard.  With 
out  doubt,  these  goods  (not  printed) 
and  composed  of  single  yarns  are  cost- 
ing the  converter  somewhat  less  than 
this  amount.  The  selling  price  to  the 
retailer  is  about  17  cents  a  yard,  be- 
cause the  goods  are  sold  direct.  Thus 
it  will  be  seen  that  the  net  profit  per 
yard  on  the  plain  styles  is  at  least  5 
cents  a  yard. 

The  printed  fabrics  are,  many  ot 
them,  two-ply  materials,  so,  allowing 
the  grey  cloth  price  of  10  cents  a  yard, 
which  approximately  covers  the  dil- 
ference  in  mill  cost  between  single 
and  two-ply,  and  at  which  undoubtedly 
this  material  could  be  purchased,  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


61 


cost  to  the  converter  for  the  printed 
fabric  is  about  12%  cents  a  yard,  not 
including  his  expenses.  Adding  12 
per  cent  or  l^^  cents  per  yard  for  ex- 
penses, the  total  cost  for  this  style 
would  be  about  14  cents  a  yard. 

THE  SELLING  PRICE 
to  the  retailer  is  about  22 1/^  cents  a 
yard,  or  a  profit  to  the  converter  of 
about  8V^  cents  a  yard  for  the  print- 
ed styles.  Inasmuch  as  the  distribu- 
tion of  the  ordinary  plain  cloth  is  wid- 
er than  for  the  printed  styles,  it  is 
likely  that  the  net  profit  will  average 
61^  cents  a  yard  for  this  cloth.  The 
distribution  of  the  material  is  quitb 
large,  the  fact  that  there  are  a  num- 
ber of  mills  producing  it  proving  this 
statement,  so  there  is  little  doubt  but 
that  a  total  sale  of  25,000  pieces  or 
even  more  will  be  noted.  This  quan- 
tity is  approximately  1,375,000  yards, 
and  at  a  net  profit  per  yard  of  6V2 
cents,  the  total  profit  to  the  converter 
would  be  practically  $90,000.  This  ap- 
pears like  a  very  large  return,  but  it 
must  be  remembered  that  the  con- 
verter's position  in  the  distribution  of 
goods  allows  for  a  good  deal  of  chance, 
that  is,  there  are  likely  to  be  other 
fabrics  on  which  a  loss  is  sustained 
and  other  fabrics  on  which  a  rather 
small  profit  is  secured,  so  that  the 
good  sellers  carry  along  the  other  fab- 
rics and  make  a  normal  profit  pos- 
sible. 

SEASON'S  INCREASE. 
There  are  certain  seasons  when  ex- 
penses are  increased,  because  the  de- 
mand declines,  and  there  are  othei 
years  when  the  reverse  is  true,  al- 
though the  12  per  cent  expense  item 
which  we  have  allowed  should  be  en- 
tirely sufficient  for  the  whole  charges 
of  a  normal  season.  The  development 
of  a  desirable  material  at  the  time  when 
it  can  be  sold  requires  a  good  deal  of 
ability,  and  the  converter  is  the  party 
who  is  carrying  such  responsibility. 
No  doubt  there  would  have  been  no 
great  production  of  high-class  domes- 
tic merchandise  unless  the  converter 
had  educated  other  buyers  and  ul- 
timately consumers  into  its  use, 
and  under  such  selling  conditions,  it 
is  only  fair  that  this  party  should  re- 
ceive a  rather  high  return  upon  his 


transactions.  Then  it  is  also  true  that 
the  profit  is  large  in  the  present  in- 
stance, because  the  goods  are  sold  di- 
rect from  the  converter  to  the  retail- 
er. This  method  of  selling  eliminates 
the  jobber,  and  while  it  increases 
somewhat  the  converter's  cost  of  doing 
business,  it  permits  of  a  wider  margin 
of  profit  than  is  noted  when  the  job 
her  handles  the  goods.  The  converter 
to-day  is  in  a  position  of  advantage, 
and  has  been  responsible  for  forcing 
a  good  many  domestic  manufacturers 
to  be  progressive.  Otherwise,  most  ol 
them  would  soon  be  settled  upon  one 
or  another  kind  of  staple  fabric  from 
which  they  either  could  not  or  would 
not  depart.  This  is  of  advantage  to 
the  industry,  as  it  tends  to  keep  up  a 
varied  domestic  production  and  in- 
creases the  taste  of  consumers  in  the 
matter  of  fabrics  and  keeps  the  in- 
dustry in  a  progressive  condition. 

We  have  already  mentioned  some  of 
the  features  in  regard  to  the  finishing 
of  the  cloth  which  is  being  consider- 
ed. In  the  first  place,  it  illustrates 
well  the  fact  that  not  only  the  bes^ 
materials  which  are  made  of  combec 
yarn  but  also  many  grades  of  carded 
work  are  improved  very  much  through 
the  mercerization  process  when  it  can 
be  done  at  the  prices  which  are  noted 
to-day.  We  do  not  state  that  some  of 
this  style,  or  even  all  of  it,  is  not 
combed  work,  but  if  it  is  such  there  is 
similar  weight  carded  work  which  Is 
even  better  by  comparison,  so  that 
the  single  yarn  cloths  anyway  may  be 
considered  on  a  carded  yarn  basis,  at 
least  so  far  as  the  result  of  the  finish 
ing  processes  are  concerned.  The 
cloth  is  piece-mercerized,  and  this  can 
be  accomplished  either  before  or  aftei 
the  bleaching  operation. 

Possibly  in  the  majority  of  instances 
it  is  done  before  the  bleaching  takes 
place.  The  cloth  is  also  piece-dyed, 
and,  naturally,  solid  colors  are  used 
because  the  cloth  is  made  entirel: 
from  cotton  and  no  cross  dyeing  proc 
esses  are  possible.  Prices  have  been 
quoted  for  this  sort  of  work  as  low  as 
li  cents  a  yard,  but  we  have  in  our 
description  allowed  IJ  cents  a  yard 
as  being  a  more  reasonable  figure 
and  on  the  safe  side,  so  far  as  produc- 
tion is  considered. 


62 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Where  printed  patterns  are  employ-  an  accurate  balance,  and  from  this 
ed  the  fabric  ground  is  left  in  a  white  the  size  of  the  warp  and  filling  can  be 
state,  and  the  lustre,  imparted  obtained  through  the  use  of  the  stand- 
by the  mercerization  process,  ard  number  for  cotton,  that  is.  No.  1 
makes  a  decided  contrast  with  the  contains  840  yards  per  pound,  No.  2 
printed  figure.  The  colors  used  in  twice  this  number  and  No.  50  would, 
the  printed  patterns  are  those  which  therefore,  contain  42,000  yards  per 
are  desirable  at  present,  being  ol  pound.  The  pound  basis,  when  yarn 
brighter  shades  than  those  used  other  weight  is  considered,  is  7,000  grains 
years.  One  of  the  features  which  per  pound.  This  separation  is  needed, 
helps  to  set  off  the  figure  is  the  out-  because  when  small  quantities  of  yarn 
line  in  black  which  makes  a  clear  sep-  are  weighed  on  delicate  balances  the 
aration  between  the  ground  of  the  weight  necessarily  is  small  if  accurate 
fabric  and  the  printed  figure.  results  are  to  be  obtained. 

Prices  for  printing  vary  somewhat,  The  take-up  of  the  warp  can  be  ob- 
and  in  a  good  many  cases  are  regulat  tained  when  the  threads  are  being 
ed  for  the  entire  order,  a  price  being  pulled  out  of  the  cloth,  and  the  take- 
quoted  which  applies  to  all  fabrics,  up  on  the  filling  can  also  be  obtained 
and  which  is  a  satisfactory  method,  in  the  same  way,  and  by  means  of  a 
inasmuch  as  the  materials  are  sold  at  simple  ratio  the  reed  width  can  be 
the  same  price  to  jobber  or  retailer  determined  approxim.ately  when  the 
regardless  of  the  number  of  colore  finished  cloth  width  is  known.  For 
employed.  Where  each  style  has  a  practical  purposes  the  exact  cloth 
separate  quoted  price,  there  is  usually  weight  can  be  ascertained  by  analysis, 
an  advance  of  about  an  eighth  of  a  because  the  fabric  as  produced  by  the 
cent  a  yard  for  each  additional  color  mill  will  vary  as  much  as  5  per  cent 
ill  the  printed  pattern  up  to  the  point  in  some  cases,  due  to  the  difference  in 
V  hero  seven  or  eight  colors  are  used,  size  of  yarns  and  other  producing  con- 
and  usually  when  the  cloth  is  of  such  ditions.  The  method  of  obtaining  the 
a  highly  decorative  nature,  special  fea-  yarn  and  cloth  weights  is  as  follows: 
tures  or  cloth  constructions  are  likely  2,228  ends  h-   (40/2  x   840)   =  .1326,  warp 

to   affect   the   costs,   so   that  no   definite  weight    per    yard    without    take-up. 

■  ,..,V.PQ    nun    hp    nan-pf]  "^ '^o    take-up  in  weaving. 

jj.ices   can    oe   na.i.LU.  jgog   ^    gg    =   .isgi,  total  warp  weight   per 

The  obtaining  of   the  yarn  weights  ,g-;-ts°x  2"""re"ed  wmth  x  36" 

?nd  after  these  the  total  weight  per      =  1,624  yds. 

.ard  of  the  fabric  is  a  rather  simple  ^^  ^.„.^^^  ^^^  p^^  ^^^^  „^  ^^^^^ 

procedure.       A    certam     number     of  1,624  x   (20/1  x  840)  =  .0966,  total  weight 

inches  of  yarn  are  pulled  out  of  the  ,  °/i  *^'""?oP®'"  y%'",^.,°^'=l°[^-    •  v,» 

,     ,,  •'  ,  J    .T.  •    1,     J  .1381    -f-    .0966    =   .2347,    total   weight   per   yd. 

-cloth,  measured  and  then  weighed  on      1.0000  -^  .2347  =  4.26  yards  per  ib.  (grey). 

PATTERN. 

Ply  yarn  warp  fabric. 
2  2 

•10/2  Am.   combed   warp  —     2,180     —     =    2.228,    total    ends. 

12  12 

L'0/1   Am.   combed   filling;    56    picks. 

:'.8   reed,    29"   width    in   reed,   27-27%"   grey   width,    26% -26%"    finished    width. 
82    X    56   grey  count.    84    X    53   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Cot-  Labor,        Twist- 
ton,  waste,  etc.       Ing. 
10/2  Am.  combed  warp;  1*4"  staple;  8  hank  dou.   rov.,        15c.  ll%c.            2c.      =      28%c. 
20/1  Am.  combed  filling;  l^^"  staple;  4%  hank  dou.  rov.,   15c.  7V&C.                      =      22V6c. 

COST. 

2.228   ends  40/2  Am.   combed  warp    +    i%   take-up    =   .1381    @    28%c.      =    $   .0399 

£6  picks  20/1  Am.  combed  filling    =   .0966    @    22 %c.      =        .0272 

Weaving     =        .0095 

Expenses     =        .0129 

$   .0895 
Selling    (grey)     .0018 

Net    mill   cost    (grey) $  .091S 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


6:^ 


PATTERN. 

Single  yarn  fabric. 
2  2 

iO/l  Am.   combed   warp  —     2,180     —     =   2,228.    total   ends. 

12  12 

21/1  Am.   combed  filling;   56  picks. 

3S   reed,    29"   width   in   reed,   27-27%"  grey   width,    26»4-26%"   finished   width. 
82    X    56   grey  count,    84    X    53   finished   count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton.         waste,   etc. 
20/1  Am.  combed  warp;l%"  staple.   4   hank  dou.    rov.,  15c.  7%c.  =     22%c. 

20/1   Am.  combed   filling;    1%"  staple;    4%    hank   dou.    rov.,      15c.  7%c.  =      22%c. 

COST. 

2.228  ends  20/1   Am.   combed  warp  +  4%   take-up =   .1381    @    22%c.      =  I   .0313 

56    picks   20/1    Am.    combed   filling =     0960    @    22y8C.      =  .0272 

Weaving     =  -0095 

Expenses    —  .0129 

I   .0809 
Selling    (grey) -OOIS 

Net    mill    cost    (grey) ?  .0825 

Mill  selling  price  to  converter   (about) .0925 

Cost  of  finishing    (bleaching,    mercerizing,    dyeing) .0150 

Cost   of   finishing    (printed    styles) .0250 

Price  to  retailer   (solid   colors)    about .1700 

Price  to  retailer    (printed  styles)   about .2250 

Price  to  consumer   (solid  colors) .2500 

Price    to    consumer    (printed    styles) .3500 

Yards  per  pound  4.26    (grey). 
Woven  on  a  jacquard   loom. 

■*~*~^ 


COTTON  BENGALINE 

There  is  one  cloth  which  is  being 
used  largely  at  present  in  various 
forms  and  which,  therefore,  is  of  quite 
a  little  interest  to  buyers  and  sellers. 
It  is  true  that  so  far  as  the  yarns  and 
cloth  constructions  used  in  producing 
such  cloths  are  concerned  the  fabrics 
are  very  similar  to  the  ordinary  pop- 
lin, but,  due  to  the  method  of  weaving, 
a  wholly  differ^  t  appearance  results. 
In  a  general  way  a  bengaline  is  a 
heavy  corded  fabric  with  the  cords 
running  in  the  filling  direction,  but  re- 
cently many  very  similar  fabrics  have 
been  produced  with  the  cords  appear- 
ing in  the  direction  of  the  warp.  Of 
course,  when  warp  cords  are  noted 
the  cloth  construction  is  somewhat 
different  than  when  filling  cords  are 
being  produced,  and  many  times  they 
are  used  for  the  same  purposes.  Inas 
much  as  most  of  these  cloths  are  noted 
with  filling  cords,  we  will  confine 
our  short  description  to  fabrics  of  that 
character.  That  there  is  a  wide  range 
of  these  materials  can  readily  be 
noted  by  examining  offerings  of  large 
retailers  who  handle  novelty  fabrics. 


Not  only  are  these  cloths  made  en- 
tirely from  cotton,  but  they  are  also 
made  from  silk  and  from  combinations 
of  various  materials,  mainly  from  silk 
and  cotton.  In  addition  to  being  made 
of  different  materials,  they  are  also 
produced  in 

DIFFERENT   METHODS, 

that  is,  from  grey  cotton  yarn  either 
single  or  two  ply  or  both  and  then 
piece  dyed  and  mercerized,  and  they 
are  also  made  from  dyed  yarn.  Raw 
silk  is  also  used  in  many  of  the  fab- 
rics, and  such  materials  are  dyed 
solid  colors  in  a  similar  manner  to 
that  when  grey  cotton  yarns  are  used, 
and  one  of  the  large  productions  at 
present  is  obtained  from  dyed  silk 
yarns  which  through  the  method  of 
weaving  produce  changeable  color  ef- 
fects. 

The  combination  materials  are  often 
dyed  solid  colors  and  in  other  in- 
stances are  cross  dyed,  a  process 
which  sometimes  results  in  rathei 
novel  effects  being  produced.  Benga- 
line fabrics  are  used  for  various  pur- 
poses, possibly  the  largest  use  being 
for  dress  materials,  both  cheap  and 
expensive  grades,  but  they  are  often 


64 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


printed  in  colors  and  are  used  for 
draperies,  hangings  and  similar  pur- 
poses. Some  of  the  warp  cords  are 
used  extensively  for  men's  shirting 
materials,  for  the  making  in  this  man- 
ner allows  a  somewhat  wider  variety 
of  pattern. 

These  same  materials  are  also  used 
for  ladies'  waistings  and  for  children's 
dresses.  Certain  expensive  bengaline 
fabrics  are  also  used  largely  for  trim- 
ming purposes,  both  in  solid  colors 
and  in  a  printed  and  enbossed  state. 
It  may  be  a  fact  that  some  years  the 
sale  of  certain  styles  is  rather  small 
when   they  a:e  compared  with  staple 


In  a  good  many  fabrics  which  con- 
sumers purchase  as  all  silk,  there  is 
a  cotton  filling  used,  but  the  silk  warp 
covers  up  the  cotton  filling  and  all<rws 
the  cloth  to  be  produced  at  a  much 
lower  price,  because  the  filling  often 
frrms  quite  a  i-ortion  of  the  cloth 
weight.  It  is  seldom  that  the  warp 
threads  per  inch  are  less  than  100  in 
cotton  fabrics  and  often  in  silk  mate- 
rials there  are  two  or  three  times  as 
many  or  even  more.  Naturally,  because 
there  is  a  preponderance  of  warp 
threads  in  these  cloths,  the  wear  is 
practically  all  sustained  by  this  yarn, 
and  as  warp  is  made  of  longer  cotton 


Special   Silk   Bengaline   Having   a   Changeable  Color  Effect. 


lines,  but  the  variety  of  constructions 
is  quite  extensive,  thus  giving  a  large 
total  sale. 

CLOTH   CONSTRUCTION. 

Inasmuch  as  bengalines  are  some 
what  similar  to  poplins,  it  is  generally 
true  that  the  warp  is  of 
finer  yarn  and  has  a  high- 
er count  than  the  filling.  In  a 
good  many  cases  the  number  of  picks 
per  inch  is  not  over  one-half  the  num- 
ber of  threads  per  inch.  This  method 
of  constructing  a  fabric  allows  the 
warp  yarn  to  cover  up  to  a  large  ex- 
tent the  filling,  and  often  makes  it 
possible  to  lose  a  lower  grade  of  filling 
than  might  otherwise  be  the  case. 


and  with  a  higher  standard  of  twist 
than  filling,  the  cloth  can  be  consid- 
ered as  giving  except  onal  wear.  This 
is  especially  true  of  the  bengalines 
made  of  cotton  yarn  with  a  two-ply 
warp,  for  they  are  just  about  as  serv- 
iceable as  the  ordinary  poplins,  and 
these  are  now  becoming  recognized 
as  offering  one  of  the  best  values  of 
any  woven  fabric. 

A  good  many  cotton  bengalines  are 
now  made  with  soft  twist  two-ply  warp, 
a  fact  which  increases  the  cost  of  mak- 
ing but  which  allows  the  cloth  to  be 
piece  mercerized,  thus  increasing  very 
much  its  attractiveness  and  making 
the  policy  worth  while.  Without  doubt, 
mercerization  w  11  be  employed  much 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


66 


more  extensively  on  some  of  the  sin- 
gle yarn  bengalines  in  the  future,  for 
it  is  being  ascertained  that  the  results 
fully  warrant  the  added  expense. 

FABRIC  WEAVE. 

Because  they  are  so  similar  to  ordi- 
nary poplins,  the  general  cloth  con- 
struction features  of  bengalines  are 
easily  understood,  but  the  method  of 
producing  the  corded  effects  is  not 
so  well  known,  especially  outside  of 
manufacturing  circles.  Some  of  the 
effects  are  madJ  on  ordinary  plain 
looms,  while  others  are  made  on  box 
looms  which  can  weave  two  picks  ot 
any  size  or  color  of  yarn,  and  still 
others,  especially  when  a  large  amount 
of  silk  is  used,  are  produced  on  a  pick 
and  pick  loom  where  a  single  pick 
of  any  size  or  color  of  yarrn  can  be 
woven.  The  weave  would  ordinarily  be 
designated  as  plain.  That  is,  there  are 
usually  only  two  harnesses  necessary, 
and  the  warp  threads  are  drawn  in  in 
regular  order,  the  cord  being  formed 
by  the  harnesses  remaining  stationary 
while  a  number  of  picks  are  being 
placed  in  the  same  shade.  Sometimes 
the  take-up  pawl  is  lifted  when  the 
cord  is  being  formed,  thus  placing  in 
the  cloth  more  picks  than  the  loom 
pick  gear  would  indicate,  while  at 
other  times  the  pawl  is  not  lifted,  the 
natural  tendency  of  the  weave  forcing 
the  picks  into  a  cord  when  the  har- 
nesses remain  stationary.  The  above 
policy  is  adopted  where  an  ordinary 
loom  is  used  and  where  only  one  size 
of  filling  yarn  can  be  woven. 

Dobby  looms  are  most  always  used 
in  making  bengalines  of  this  character 
because  orders  are  comparatively 
small  and  cams  are  expensive  and 
often  do  not  hold  picks  enough  to 
make  them  practical,  and  the  use 
of  a  dobby  allows  the  filling  thread  to 
be  caught  and  held  out  in  a  satisfac- 
tory manner  when  the  cord  is  being 
formed.  Box  looms  are  used  when 
different  dzes  or  colors  of  filling  are 
being  used,  and  in  a  good  many  caseb 
produce  a  rounder  cord  and  a  some- 
what greater  yardage  even  at  a  slower 
loom  speed.  When  picks  are  forced  into 
the  shade  to  produce  a  round  cord 
with  only  a  single  size  of  filling  used 
it  is  likely  to  cause  an  excessive  strain 


on  the  warp  yarn  and  result  in  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  in  the  weaving 
operation.  We  are  illustrating  the 
weave  on  one  of  the  ordinary  fabrics 
which  contains  but  one  size  of  filling. 
It  will  be  noted  that  we  have  made 

TWO  REPEATS  OF  THE  WEAVE 

in  the  filling  direction,  this  being  nec- 
essary because  two  picks  are  placed 
on  a  chain  bar  in  a  good  many  in- 
stances. We  are  also  illustrat- 
ing a  special  silk  fabric  which 
has  a  changeable  color  ef- 
fect. This  weave  is  identical 
with  the  ordinary  three  harness  twill, 
but  because  of  the  different  yarn  sizes 
which  are  employed  in  the  filling  and 
the  different  colors  which  are  used 
in  the  warp  an  entirely  different  effect 
is  produced,  and  no  one  from  a  super- 
ficial examination  of  the  cloth  wnuld 
consider  tha'  the  weave  was  similar 
to  that  of  many  simple  twill  fabrics. 
In  the  first  cloth  the  cord  is  produced 
by  placing  a  number  of  picks  of  the 
same  filling  in  one  shade,  while  in  the 
other  fabric  the  cord  is  produced  by 
inserting  a  very  much  heavier  pick  of 
filling. 

Due  to  the  stiffness  of  the  cords  the 
ordinary  bengaline  cloth  does  not 
shrink  very  much  in  the  weaving 
operation,  often  only  one-half  to  one 
inch  from  reed  to  cloth,  and  certain 
special  fabrics  have  an  even  smaller 
shrinkage  than  the  amount  named. 
As  a  general  thine  the  cloth  weave  is 
very  simple,  the  cords  being  at  various 
spacings  up  to  ''bout  three-eighths  of 
an  inch  apart,  and  soL^etimes  of  differ- 
ent sizes,  the  fancy  effects  being  al- 
most entirely  *he  result  of  yarn  and 
color  combinations,  anci  in  som  cases 
of  both.  Because  the  weaves  w^hich 
are  used  are  very  simple,  in  many 
cases  being  just  about  thp  same  as 
that  of  a  plain  sheeting,  it  might  be 
supposed  that  au  omatlc  k  ;ms  would 
be  used  in  the  production  o  some  of 
the  all-cotton  fabrics,  bu  t)ii  ?  is  not 
done,  mainly  because  the  losses  due 
to  seconds  increase  as  tlie  cloLh  value 
is  higher,  and  also  because  the  weav- 
ing cost  iz  a  much  smaller  proportion 
of  the  total  cost  than  on  some  of  the 
cheaper  lines  where  they  can  be  suc- 
cessfully     used.      Fewer    automatic 


66 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


looms  per  weaver  would  be  necessary, 
and  this  would  naturally  cut  down  the 
possible  savings  so  that  they  are  not 
used.  Most  bengalines  would  be  con- 
sidered heavy  fabrics,  even  the  ones 
made  entirely  of  silk  being  of  quite 
good  weight  because  of  the  cords 
used. 

FINISHING    RESULTS. 

A  good  many  of  the  all-cotton  cloths 
are  mercerized  to-day  in  addition  to  the 
processes  which  were  formerly  em- 
ployed, and  because  of  the  us«  of  this 
process,  the  yarns  composing  the  fab- 
ric are  of  somewhat  different  con- 
struction than  they  previously  were. 


ton  to  anywhere  near  as  great  an  ex- 
tent as  it  did  the  longer  staples,  but 
the  variation  in  result  has  been  found 
to  be  from  manufacturing  conditions 
more  than  from  the  chemical  process 
employed.  Long  cotton  yams  can  be 
twisted  very  much  less  than  short 
ones,  and  still  have  them  practical  for 
a  mill,  and  the  less  twist  a  yarn  has 
the  more  nearly  parallel  the  fibres  are, 
and  the  greater  the  lustre  obtained 
when  the  cloth  is  mercerized. 

Some  fabrics  have  been  made  in 
large  quantities  with  filling  spun  on  a 
ring  frame  with  a  standard  of  twist  be- 
low 2|  times  the  square  root  of  the 
yarn    size,   but   it   was   done    with    a 


The  Fabric  A.nalyzed. 


The  warp  yam  in  such  cloths  is  often 
of  two-ply,  and  contains  a  compara- 
tively small  amount  of  twist,  for  this 
produces  letter  results  when  finished. 
It  is  also  true  that  Egyptian  cotton  is 
used  to  quite  an  extent  in  yams  or 
cloths  which  are  to  be  mercerized,  but 
this  is  not  so  true  as  it  previously 
was,  for  the  yarns  in  woven  cloth 
have  been  found  to  be  satisfactory 
when  made  of  American  cotton. 

K  all  the  fabrics  which  are  sold  to- 
day, and  which  contain  mercerized 
yam  or  are  piece  mercerized,  contain- 
ed Egyptian  cotton,  there  would  be  a 
very  much  greater  amount  imported 
than  there  is  at  present.  It  used  to  be 
considered  that  the  mercerizatlon 
process  did  not  affect  the  short  cot- 


long  staple  cotton,  and  price  competi 
tion  has  made  such  a  policy  rather 
impossible  at  present,  due  to  the  ex 
tra  price  for  cotton.  Sometimes  ben 
galine  fabrics  i^re  printed  with 

VARIOUS   PATTERNS 

which  make  them  very  attractive,  the 
colors  and  styles  of  figures  varying 
with  the  season.  Many  of  the  good 
mercerized  materials  which  are  made 
from  fine  cotton  yams  approach  very 
closely  the  effects  which  can  be  ob- 
tained from  similar  silk  fabrics.  Be^ 
cause  of  such  facts,  many  of  the  silk 
bengalines  are  made  to-day  in  change- 
able effec*^s.  One  cloth  contains  a 
warp  of  three  colors,  one  thread  of 
black,  one   thread  of   green   and   one 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


67 


thread  of  blue  regularly  throughout 
the  whole  warp.  Because  of  the  cloth 
construction,  the  black  yarn  weaves 
in  such  a  manner  that  it  appears  only 
on  the  back  of  the  fabric,  while  the 
green  an<^  bit.--,  threads  alternating  on 
the  face  create  a  changeable  appear- 
ance. 

The  filling  consists  of  two  picks  of 
silk  yarn  and  one  pick  of  heavy  cot- 
ton, which  heavy  pick  produces  the 
corded  effect  Both  kinds  of  filling 
are  dyed  a  red  color,  a  fact  which 
makes  a  red  and  black  changeable  ef- 
fect on  the  back  of  the  cloth.  Inas- 
much as  the  large  amount  of  warp 
(two-thirds  of  the  total  amount)  is  on 
the  face,  it  covers  up  the  filling  en- 
tirely. In  addition  to  the  color  effect, 
many  of  these  silk  or  part  silk  cloths 
are  treated  to  an  embossing  process, 
which  method  presses  a  figure  upon 
the  fabric  very  similar  in  appearance 
to  a  jacquard  woven  effect.  Because 
the  cloths  have  such  heavy  cords,  the 
results  of  embossing  are  much  more 
prominent  and  last  much  longer  than 
they  do  on  many  other  kinds  of  fab- 
rics, in  fact,  a  woven  effect  could  not 
be  used  to  produce  the  kinds  of  fig- 
ures which  the  embossing  process 
does. 

These  embossed  fabrics  are  practi- 
cally never  washed,  so  that  the  meth- 
od gives  satisfactory  results.  Change- 
able effects  are  not  always  similar  to 
that  described,  for  they  often  have  a 
bar  effect  rather  than  an  all-over  one. 
Without  doubt,  the  increased  demand 
for  high  priced  and  different  materials 
has  resulted  in  the  production  of  many 
rather  nc  w  effects  or  the  variation  of 
old  ones  in  an  attractive  manner.  It 
is  not  always  necessary  to  have  a 
fancy  weave  or  complicated  machin- 
ery in  order  to  produce  attractive 
cloth  results,  a  fact  which  has  recent- 
ly been  recognized  by  some  of  the  man- 
ufacturers who  produce  even  the  lowest 
quality  of  goods,  but  who,  through 
ability  and  slight  changes  in  their 
fabrics,  have  been  able  to  obtain  high- 
er prices  with  no  great  advance  in 
their  costs.  One  of  the  greatest  les-. 
sons  the  American  manufacturer  is 
1  .arning  to-day  is  the  power  of  adapt- 
ability, and  this  will  show  results  in 
more  attractive   materials   in   the   fu- 


ture, if  he  is  not  forced  into  competi- 
tion too  keenly  by  the  present  meth- 
ods of  selling. 

LOSSES  IN  FINISHING. 
Possibly,  one  of  the  facts  which 
has  never  been  investigated  at  all 
regarding  cloths  is  the  loss  and  in 
some  cases  the  gain  which  they  have 
in  the  finishing  processes.  This  does 
not  mean  the  features  which  result 
from  the  addition  of  starch  or  vari- 
ous fillings,  but  the  actual  facts  con- 
cerning the  yarns  and  cloth  construc- 
tion. It  has  generally  been  consider- 
ed that  a  dyed  piece  of  cloth  will 
weigh  just  about  the  same  amount 
per  yard  as  the  grey  cloth  when  it 
comes  from  the  loom,  but  this  is  ab- 
solutely incorrect  in   the  majority  of 


<. 


The   Weave. 

cases,  even  with  the  addition  of  siz- 
ing material,  for,  in  most  cases,  accu- 
rate experiments  will  prove  that  the 
cloth   is   somewhat  lighter. 

There  has  be'^n  no  great  necessity 
for  experiments  being  made  along 
these  lines,  in  fact,  there  are  very  few 


A   C0TtOr4  FABRICS  GLOSSiAlf 


opportunities  for  accurate  investiga- 
tions of  these  conditions.  The  cloth 
we  have  analyzed  has  been  treated 
very  carefully,  and  the  warp,  which 
was  approximately  60s-2  when  used 
at  the  mill,  in  the  finished  cloth  is 
66s-2,  while  the  filling,  which  was  ap- 
proximately 35S-1  in  the  grey,  in  the 
finished  state  is  about  37s.5-l.  In  this 
case  the  warp  yarn  loses  about  the 
same  amount  as  the  filling,  but  other 
fabric  constructions  may  show  entire- 
ly different  results.  The  fabric  con- 
tained 54  picks  per  inch  when  it  was 
in  the  grey  state,  but,  due  to  the 
stretch  in  finishing,  it  contains  only 
52  picks  when  sold.  Not  only  does 
the  yarn  size  change  when  the  cloth 
is  finished,  but  it  is  likely  to  be  some- 
what different  when  various  parties 
handle  it.  The  stretch  in  finishing 
oftentimes  has  something  to  do  with 
the  lighter  size  of  the  warp,  although 
this  is  not  always  the  case. 

Results  on  fabrics  which  are  made 
with  dyed  yarns  are  much  easier  to 
obtain,  because  the  processes  are  usu- 
ally accomplished  in  a  single  plant, 
and  the  cloth  can  be  followed  careful- 
ly. In  the  analysis  of  fabrics  which 
are  woven  of  grey  yarn  and  then  fin- 


ished, a  great  deal  of  care  must  be 
exercised  in  determining  the  yarn 
sizes  which  are  to  be  Uoed  in  weaving 
the  cloth,  and  to  base  all  estimates 
on  the  finished  yarn  in  cloth  is  not  a 
correct  policy,  and  is  one  reason  why 
the  duplicating  of  cloth  is  not  always 
the  success  which  some  buyers  antici- 
pate. When  the  grey  yarn  sizes  have 
been  correctly  estimated,  and  the 
threads  and  picks  per  inch  in  the 
grey  cloth  obtained,  the  cloth  and 
yarn  weights  can  be  readily  found 
and  a  fabric  can  easily  be  duplicated. 
In  a  bengaline  cloth  the  warp  take- 
up  is  usually  greater  than  for  a  good 
many  ordinary  materials  in  which  the 
same  or  similar  yarn  sizes  are  used. 
The  method  of  obtaining  the  weights 
of  the  yarn  and  the  weight  of  the  grey 
cloth  is  as  follows: 

2,920    ends    -^    (60/2    X    840)    =    .1159.    warp 

weight  per  yard  without  take-up. 
9%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.1159    -s-    .91    =    .1274,    total    weight    of   warp 

yarn   per  yard   of   woven  cloth. 
54  picks  X  28%"  width  in  reed  X  36" 

=  1,552.5 

36" 

yards    of    filling    per    yard    of   cloth. 
1.552.5      -H      (35/1      X      840)      =     .0528,     total 

weight   of   filling  per  yard  of  woven  cloth. 
.1274     +     .0528     =     .1802.     total    weight     per 

yard. 
1.000')   -i-   .1802    =    5.55   yards   per   lb.    (grey). 


Cotton  Bengaline. 

PATTERN. 
2  2 

60/2    Am.    combed   warp  —     2,824     —   =    2,920.    total    ends. 

24  24 

35/1   Am.    combed  filling;    54   picks. 

50  reed,    28%"  width   In   reed.    28"   grey  width,    27"   finished   width. 
104    X    54  grey   count;   107    X    52    finished   count. 

YARNS. 

Cot-  Labor,     Twist- 
ton,  waste,  etc.     ing. 

60/2  Am.  combed  warp;  1%"  staple;  12  hank  dou.  rov.,       23c.  19%c.          3V4c.      =   46%c. 

35/1  Am.  combed  filling;  1%"  staple;   8  hank  dou.  rov..        15c.  9%c.                        =   24%c. 

COST. 

2,920   ends  60/2  Am.   combed  warp    +    9%   take-up   =   .1274    @    46%c =  $  .0591 

54   picks    35/1    Am.    combed    filling                                     =   .0528    @    24%c =  .0129 

Weaving    .0079 

Expenses    .0096 

}  .0895 
Selling    (grey) .0018 

I  .0913 

Mill  selling  price  (about)    .1025 

Bleaching,    finishing,    dyeing,    mercerizing ^ .0150 

Converter's   expenses    .• .0100 

Total  cost  to  converter   (about) $  .1275 

Price    to    jobber    (about) .1400 

Price  to  retailer   (about) .1750 

Price   to   consumer ., .2600 

Yards  per  pound  5.55  (grey). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


<» 


MIXTURE  MOIRE 

There  is  developing  in  the  domes- 
tic market  a  very  much  larger  de- 
mand for  all  kinds  of  pressed  figures 
than  has  been  noted  for  some  years 
and  of  these  lines  moire  is  one  of 
the  leading  styles.  A  good  many  of 
the  pressed  patterns  now  selling  have 
been  developed  because  of  the  demand 
for  large  woven  figures,  not  only  in 
silk  but  also  in  cotton  and  wool,  and 
without  doubt  these  large  woven  fig- 
ures cannot  be  satisfactorily  pro- 
duced on  a  good  many  of  the  cloths 
now  in  demand,  so  that  the  pressing 
or  embossing  method  offers  opportu- 
nities in  producing  large  effects  not 
otherwise   obtainable. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  demand  has 
recently  been  so  good  for  certain  of 
these  lines  that  stocks  have  been 
practically  cleaned  up  and  that  new 
merchandise  is  not  readily  obtainable 
especially  in  desirable  weights.  The 
various  results  are  obtained  almost 
entirely  from  different  finishing  proc- 
esses which  are  given  th  goods  after 
they  are  woven,  the  prices  varying 
according  to  the  methods  necessary, 
the  quantity  of  cloth  to  be  handled, 
and    the    demand   for    merchandise. 

A  CERTAIN  CLASS 

of  pressed  fabrics  is  continually 
sold  in  greater  or  less  amounts  and 
is  used  for  different  kinds  of  linings, 
book  bindings,  women's  hats,  portiers 
and  similar  purposes,  although,  of 
course,  the  large  sale  develops  when 
such  pressed  materials  can  be  used  for 
dresses,  trimmings  and  coatings.  The 
p.ocess  is  applied  to  fabrics  of  differ- 
ent weights  and  constructions,  but 
it  is  probable  that  the  best  and  most 
permanent  results  are  secured  on 
what  might  be  called  the  heavier 
lines.- 

Fabrics  which  are  to  be  pressed 
are  often  made  entirely  from  silk, 
although  mixture  materials  are  also 
sold  extensively,  as  this  allows  the 
cloths  to  be  produced  at  a  lower  price 
and  the  effects  obtained  are  just 
about  as  satisfactory  as  if  all  silk 
had  been  used,  while  for  certain  uses 
fabrics  made  entirely  from  cotton  are 


of  advantage.  Due  to  the  character 
of  most  woolen  yarns,  there  are  very 
few  attempts  to  press  patterns  upon 
cloth  woven  from  this  material.  It  is 
sometimes  done,  but  the  results  are 
not  often  used  for  dress  purposes,  as 
the  pressing  makes  the  cloth,  when 
composed  of  wool,  rather  impenetra- 
ble to  air,  which  is  of  i^uportance  in 
dress  materials. 

CLOTH   CONSTRUCTION. 

A  good  many  of  the  fabrics  which 
are  now  selling  are  woven  with  a  silk 
warp  and  a  cotton  tilling,  thus  makinfe 
them  very  similar  to  many  of  the 
other  mixture  cloths  sold  in  large, 
quantities  and  more  or  less  regularly 
This  sort  of  cloth  could  be  made  i> 
fancy  cotton  mills  successfully,  though 
it  is  probable  that  comparatively  few 
of  them  are,  due  to  the  large  numbei 
of  threads  per  inch.  In  a  general  waj 
the  cloth  construction  often  is  tht 
same  as  for  many  silk  and  cotton  pop 
lins,  with  a  large  number  of  threads 
per  inch  of  silk  yarn  and  a  compara 
tively  small  number  of  picks  per  inch 
of  cotton  yarn. 

The  weave  is  plain  in  a  good  many 
cases,  as  this  pro-ducas  a  firm  cloth 
and  allows  a  good  foundation  for 
the  finishing  effect,  and  does  not  break 
up  the  effect  which  is  desired  to  be 
produced  when  the  cloth  is  pressed. 
One  feature  is  that  the  filling  or  cot- 
ton yarn  is  often  a  twisted  one 
Through  this  method,  the  yarn  size 
is  likely  to  be  more  regular  and  fewer 
cotton  fibres  are  likely  to  project, 
thus  making  a  smoother  fabric  when 
woven.  Not  only  does  the  ply  yarn 
produce  a  fabric  more  similar  to  an 
entire  silk  one,  but  it  is  of  advantage 
in  obtaining  the  kind  of  effect  desired, 
and  a  more  lasting  one  than  if  single 
yarn  had  been  used.  The  large  num- 
ber of  silk  warp  threads  are  likely 
to  cover  up  to  a  large  extent  the  cot- 
ton yarn  filling,  and  because  of  the 
difference  in  the  yarn  sizes  between 
warp  and  filling  a  corded  cloth  is  pro- 
duced with  the  ribs  running  in  the 
filling  direction. 

The  loom  production  Is  quite 
large  when  compared  with  many 
other  styles  of  rather  ex- 
pensive cloth,  mainly  because 
there      are       so      few       picks      per 


70 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


inch.  It  might  be  supposed  that  some 
of  these  mixture  cloths  would  be  pro- 
duced on  automatic  looms,  but  this 
is  not  true,  inasmuch  as  the  weavinj, 
cost  is  so  small  a  portion  of  the  total 
expense  and  inasmuch  as  care  must 
be  exercised  in  the  weaving  opera- 
tions. It  is,  however,  true  that  some 
of  the  all-cotton  fabrics  are  produced 
in  this  manner,  for  they  are  only  ordi- 
nary plain  cloths,  and  there  is  quite 
a  little  advantage  obtained  through 
the  use  of  automatic  machinery. 
Because  the  production  is  rather  large 
per  loom  the  cost  of  production  is 
rather  reasonable  when  tha  weaving 
operation  is  considered.  The  shrink- 
age of  the  warp  from  reed  width  to 
woven  cloth  is  rather  small  and  the 
same  is  true  when  the  fabric  is  finish- 
ed. The  ply  filling  yarns,  partly 
through  the  cloth  construction  used, 
appear  in  the  cloth  much  the  same  as 
if  they  were  small  steel  rods  and  all 
the  interweaving  is  noted  on  the  warp 
yarn. 

Naturally  the  number  of  picks 
which  any  fabric  of  the  kind  described 
can  contain  is  limited  by  the  yarn  size 
or  diameter.  With  the  exception  of 
the  small  space  taken  up  by  the  fine 
silk  warp  as  it  crosses  from  the  face 
to  the  back  of  the  fabric,  the  whole 
space  is  taken  up  by  the  filling  yarns 
which  lie  close  together  in  horizon- 
tal lines.  The  number  of  picks  must 
be  nearly  as  many  as  the  cloth  will 
hold  else  the  finished  results  will  not 
be  as  good  as  they  should  be  when 
the  cloth  is  pressed. 

METHODS   EMPLOYED. 

There  are  a  number  of  methods 
employed  by  wnicn  pressed  figures 
are  obtained  on  cloth.  One  method, 
and  possibly  the  one  used  most  ex- 
tensively and  which  is  illus- 
trated well  by  the  analyzed 
fabric,  is  to  apply  heavy  pres- 
sure to  the  cloth  with  a  smooth 
roll.  The  material  is  first  folded 
lengthwise  or  elsatwo  separate  widths 
of  cloth  are  used,  one  on  top  of  the 
other,  and  while  they  are  in  a  damp 
state  heavy  pressure  is  applied  to- 
gether with  heat.  As  will  be  readily 
noted,  where  the  fabric  has  been  fold- 
ed the  pick  of  one  half  of  the  cloth 
or  of  another  piece  of  cloth  slips  into 


the  space  between  the  picks  of  the 
opposing  fabric,  but,  due  to  uneven- 
uesa  111  the  material,  this  does  not  oc- 
cur throughout  the  entire  cloth  width. 
The  great  pressure  used  gives  the 
smoothness  which  imparts  the  cloth 
lustre,  for  it  makes  the  grooves  be- 
tween the  picks  more  regular,  while 
the  watered  effect  is  produced  at  the 
points  where  the  picks  of  one  fabric 
slip  over  the  picks  of  the  opposing  fab- 
ric and  into  another  groove,  thereby 
flattening  out  the  pick  over  which 
it  crosses  when  the  pressure  is  ap- 
plied. 
A    second     method     is     somewhat 

SIMILAR  TO  THE  ONE  MENTIONED, 

for  the  cloth  is  rolled  up  and  the 
pressure  applied  to  it  in  a  rolled  up 
state.  There  is  another  method  which 
is  used  extensively  in  certain  lines 
when  an  engraved  roller  is  used  on 
which  fine  lines  are  cut,  and  while  the 
cloth  is  being  treated  there  is  a  lateral 
motion  which  causes  a  variation  in 
the  lines  pressed  into  the  cloth.  Pos- 
sibly the  method  by  which  the  widest 
variety  of  patterns  is  produced,  but 
which  is  rather  expensive,  is  where  a 
separate  roll  is  engraved  for  each 
pattern  and  on  which  the  cloth  con- 
struction may  be  entirely  different 
from  what  it  is  in  the  cloth  analyzed. 
This  embossing  process  is  practi- 
cally the  same  in  results  as  the  proc- 
ess which  is  used  on  paper  in  so 
many  forms.  It  is  however  the  case 
that  many  cloths  have  cotton  filling 
yarn  because  this  allows  a  lower  cost 
of  production  and  aids  somewhat  in 
obtaining  gocd  results  whei>  the  cloth 
is  finished.  The  engraved  roller,  when 
one  is  used,  and  a  corresponding  rol- 
ler, when  one  is  not  used,  is  heated  by 
some  method  so  that  the  damp  cloth 
is  dried  and  pressed  at  the  same  time, 
a  fact  which  produces  more  pro- 
nounced effects  and  causes  them  to 
be  of  a  more  permanent  nature.  In 
other  words,  the  pressed  effect  is  iron- 
ed into  the  cloth,  forcing  the  threads 
and  picks  into  the  patterns  desired  and 
making  them  desirable  for  many  pur- 
poses. It  must  not  be  supposed  that 
moir^  effects  are  the  only  ones  which 
can  be  produced  by  a  pressing  proc- 
ess because  there  is  a  wide  variety 
of  styles  possible. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


71 


Many  kinds  of  cotton  lining  fabrics 
have  milled  surfaces,  a  method  which 
increases  their  lustre  and  desirability 
and  prevents  them  from  getting  soil- 
ed so  quickly.  Then  there  are  cloths 
produced  which  contain  pressed  ef- 
fects, of  slash  lines,  checks,  mottled 
effects,  cords  and  similar  styles  and 
in  addition  there  are  the  many  em- 
bossed cloths  which  are  used  for  dec- 
orative purposes  and  which  contain 
about  as  wide  a  range  of  styles  as  the 
woven  brocade  cloths  which  are  sold 
in  quite  large  quantities.  In  these  ma- 
terials, ribs  and  other  woven  cloth 
effects  are  produced  which  have  no 
direct  relation  to  the  picks  per  inch 
in  the  fabric,  or  the  fabric  weave,  but 
which  are  so  carefully  done  that  they 
often  deceive  the  most  careful  ob- 
servers and  are  not  noted  until  the 
cloth  is  pulled  to  pieces  in  order  to 
obtain  the  construction  used. 

In  a  general  way  the  cloths  on 
which  there  is  to  be  placed  a  pressed 
figure  are  woven  from  raw  materials, 
that  is,  from  grey  cotton  or  from  raw 
silk  and  not  from  dyed  or  bleached 
yarns.  Naturally  such  cloths  are 
woven  just  the  same  as  an  or- 
dinary material  and  when  taken 
from  the  loom  are  bleached  and 
dyed  by  the  usual  methods.  Be- 
cause of  the  method  of  production 
the  colors  are  most  always  solid  ones 
and  possibly  the  majority  of  colors 
used  are  dark,  black  and  dark  blues 
being  used  extensively,  although  there 
are  instances  where  printed  patterns 
and  light  shades  are  used.  It  is  how- 
ever true  that  when  the  embossing  or 
pressing  is  to  take  place  the  cloth 
contains  somewhat  more  starch  than 
is  noted  on  many  fabrics  inasmuch 
as  this  tends  to  make  the  pattern  or 
pressed  effects  of  a  more  permanent 
iiuLUie. 

When  a  satin  face  silk  and  cotton 
material  is  to  be  treated  to  an  emboss- 
ing process  the  cloth  is  given  a 

BACK   STARCHING   PROCESS 

which  allows  the  back  of  the  cloth  to 
be  stiffened  up  in  a  satisfactory  man- 
ner but  keeps  the  face  of  the  cloth 
free  from  starch  and  3oes  not  detract 
from  the  face  lustre.  This  is  a  desir- 
able policy  inasmuch  as  the  face  is 
silk  yam  and   any  amount  of  starch 


would  cause  the  finish  to  be  less 
lustrous.  Of  course,  the  pressing  proc- 
ess is  practically  the  last  one  before 
the  cloth  is  folded  and  shipped. 
Sometimes  there  is  a  decided  loss  in 
yardage  in  the  finishing  prooess 
because  the  embossing  of  the  cloth 
creates  ribs  or  undulations  thereby 
taking  up  a  certain  amount  of  the  fab- 
ric and  increasing  the  cost  per  yard 
of  the  finished  material.  Care  must 
be  used  by  buyers  when  fabrics  which 
shrink  in  finishing  are  being  handled, 
especially  when  they  are  being  made 
to  sell  at  a  certain  price.  A  compara- 
tively small  variation  in  the  yardage 
received  will  seriously  affect  the  prof- 
its which  are  obtained  and  in  some 
instances  is  likely  to  cause  losses. 

PRICES    AND    PROFITS. 

There  is  a  very  interesting  situa- 
tion noted  when  the  selling  prices 
of  silks  or  fabrics  woven  in  silk  mills 
are  compared  with  some  of  the  high- 
class  fabrics  which  are  now  being  pro- 
duced in  cotton  mills.  Without  doubt 
there  are  a  majority  of  silk  fabrics 
purchased  by  consumers  at  a  smaller 
ratio  of  advance  on  the  mill  selling 
price  than  is  noted  on  many  styles 
of  cotton  fabrics.  There  are  very 
many  cotton  cloths  costing  in  a 
finished  state  not  over  12  cents  per 
yard  which  retail  at  approximately 
35  cents  per  yard  and  often  styles  are 
shown  where  the  advance  is  much 
greater  than  this  amount. 

There  are  very  many  silk  cloths 
costing  about  60  cents  per  yard 
to  produce  which  are  sold  at  retail 
for  $1.25  per  yard  or  less.  Thus  it 
will  be  seen  that  even  though  silks 
are  more  of  a  luxury  than  cottons 
they  reach  the  consumer  in  very  many 
instances  at  much  more  reasonable 
advances  on  the  cost  of  production. 
This  should  never  be  noted  in  the 
distribution  of  merchandise  because 
silks  are  made  and  sold  in  much 
smaller  quantities  than  are  cottons 
and  not  only  this,  but  the  retailer  usu- 
ally adds  a  greater  amount  of  profit 
to  silk  cloths  than  he  does  to  cotton 
ones.  Possibly  the  reason  why  many 
silk  cloths  show  a  smaller  rate  of  in- 
crease Is  because  they  go  through  a 
fewer  number  of  hands,  making  small- 
er profits  necessary. 


7S 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


One  of  the  great  needs  in  the  sale 
of  cotton  goods  is  that  they  be  sold  in 
a  more  direct  manner,  especially  the 
fabrics  which  are  not  considered  as 
staples.  The  converting  jobber  has 
made  a  start  in  this  direction  and 
there  will  be  a  gradual  increasing  sale 
of  such  cloth  in  this  method.  At  pres- 
ent the  rate  of  profits  of  this  party  is 
sometimes  rather  large,  but  as  more 
cloth  is  sold  in  this  manner 

COMPETITION  WILL  INCREASE 
and  profits   be  smaller,  and,   in  addi- 
tion,   there   will    De    many    economies 
effectea   in     selling     goods     in     tnis 
manner.  It     can     be      said      that 

there     are     many     lines     of     fancy 


used,  though  the  regular  market  price 
would  not  increase  the  total  cloth  cost 
to  any  gruat  extent.  Possibly  this  cloth 
would  le  sold  at  67^  cents  or  less 
by  a  silk  mill,  and  inasmuch  as  there 
is  a  very  large  demand  at  present  the 
retailer  is  receiving  a  very  large  prof- 
it, probably  as  high  as  100  per  cent. 
In  any  case,  including  the  retailer's 
high  profit,  the  price  to  the  consumer 
is  only  about  three  times  the  mill  sell- 
ing price  and  ordinarily  would  be 
much  less  than  this  amount,  a  con- 
dition not  often  noted  when  a  cotton 
fabric  is  selling  as  well  as  these  silk 
and  cotton  moir6  materials. 

There    are    a    number    of    features 


Sample  of  the  Moire  Fabric  Analyzed. 


cotton  goods  which  are  made 
to-day  which"  could  be  produced  in 
smaller  quantities  from  bleached  and 
dyed  yarns  and  sold  direct  to  retailers 
at  prices  which  would  allow  a  very 
satisfactory  rate  of  profit.  There 
should  be  a  greater  amount  of  cloth 
produced  in  this  manner  instead  of 
as  it  is  at  present,  with  various  small 
plants  attempting  to  produce  staples 
or  near  staples  such  as  are  woven  in 
the  larger  mills. 

TaRe  tae  laoric  for  which  the  cost 
is  given  for  an  illustration.  "We  have 
given  the  actual  cotton  mill  cost  for 
30-3,  but  If  tne  ciotn  were  produced 
In  a  silk  mill  this  yam  could  not  be 
obtained  at  the  price  which  we  have 


which  should  be  considered  when  a 
silk  cloth  or  silk  mixture  cloth  is  being 
analyzed.  One  of  the  important  facts 
is  that  raw  silk  contains  a  varying 
amount  of  gum  which  may  or  may 
not  be  removed  when  the  cloth  or 
yarn  is  finished.  In  addition,  certain 
kinds  of  dyestuffs  are  often  used 
which  are  likely  to  make  tne  yam 
or  cloth  weigh  much  more  than  when 
first  used.  Even  if  the  cloth  Is  not 
weighted  through  the  use  of  dye- 
stuffs  the  gum  may  not  be  entirely 
removcQ,  t-o  mat  tne  determining  of 
the  yarn  size  is  sometimes  diflJcult 
even  to  those  familiar  with  the  meth- 
od ana  Is  usually  Impossible  to  those 
not    familiar    with    conditions.     In  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


78 


good    many    cotton    and    silk    mixed  per  inch  a  slight  difference  will  makr 

cloths  there  is  practically  no  weight-  >iuite  a  little  variation  in  the  costs  of 

ing  applied  when  the  cloth  is  finished  production. 

and  the  silk  yarn  will  be  lighter  than  When     cotton     fabrics     have     been 

when      first     used,      though       various  pressed    they   usually     contain     quite 

amounts  of  gum  are  removed  in  fin-  large     amounts     of     sizing     material, 

ishing.  and    this    should    be    removed    before 

Comparatively  few  sizes  of  silk  are  any  accurate  estimate  can     be  made 

used  in  large  quantities  in  cotton  mills,  regarding  the  original  yarn  sizes.  To 

and  for  this  reason  it  is  usually  pos-  obtain  the  weights  of  the  yarns  and 

sible   to   determine   rather   easily   the  the  weight  of  the   cloth    the   process 

sizes  of  silk  used.    Then  a  mill  often  is  as  follows:    (The  silk  yardage  used 

finds   it  advantageous   to   use   certain  is  an  assumed  one,  but  it  covers  the 

yarn    sizes   and    for    this    reason    can  contraction  in  twist  and  offers  a  cer- 

determine  the  approximate  cost  of  a  tain  amount  of  protection  to  the  cloth 

style  of  fabric  as  they  will  be  likely  manufacturer.) 

to    produce    it.    Another    fact    which  ^  ^^^  ^^^^^  ^   (147.500  yds.)   =  .0633,  warp 

needs    careful   attention   is    the    take-  weight   without   take-up. 

up  on  the  warp  yarn  in  the  weaving  oes^^''!!?"^  .o"729;'Voiaf- weight  of  warp 

process.  Wlien  a  cotton  warp  yarn  is  in  one  yard  of  woven  cioth. 

used,  a  small  variation  in  the  take-up  56  picks  X36y4"  reed  width  x  36       ^     ^^^^ 

used  in  figuring  the  cloth  weights  will  36" 

not  affect  the  cost  of  the  cloth  greatly,  ^.oTo''''-^  %o%''x^  s%')  '=''.'1417.  t°tai  weight 

but    where     the     warp     is     of    silk    and  of    suing    in    one    yard    of    woven    cloth. 

4,  ,  X,  a    j.^         J  .0729    +    .2417    =    .3146,    total   weight   per  yd. 

there  are  a  large  number  of  threads       1.0000^  .3146  =  3.17  yds.  per  ib.  (grey). 

PATTERN. 
13/15   2   thread  organzlne.        9.344,   total   ends. 
SO/3   Am.   carded   filling,    56   picks. 
64   reed,    36^4"  width    in   reed,    36"    finished   width. 
259    X    56   finished   count. 

YARNS. 

Labor,     Twist- 
Cotton,   waste,  etc.      Ing. 
30/3  Am.  carded  filling;   IHa"  staple,   6  hank  dou.   rov.,      13%c.  6>^c.  3>4c.      =      23Vic. 

13/15   2  thread  organzlne  on   beams   ready   to  use    (per   lb.)  =      $5.60 

COST. 

9,344   ends  13/15   2    thread   organzlne    -f    13%   take-up    =   .0729    @    $5.60    =  $  .4082 

56   picks   30/3    Am.   carded   filling                                               =   .2417    @    23%c =  .0562 

Weaving     .0353 

Expenses     .0283 

$  .5280 

Dyeing,    finishing,    etc.    (about; .0500 

Selling    price     (about) .6750 

Retail    selling   price    2.0000 

Yards   per   pound   3.17    (grey). 


SLUB  YARN  NOVELTY 

The  past  few  years  there  has  been 
a  great  deal  of  discussion  regarding 
the  large  increase  in  the  number  of 
special  cotton  fabrics  made  and 
whether  or  not  it  is  well  to  go  into 
this  kind  of  business  in  any  extensive 
manner.  Years  ago,  or  when  the  do 
mestic  industry  was  comparatively 
small,  the  majority  of  mills  were  able 
to  produce  cloths,  the  best  of  which 
would  be  considered  staples  on  to 
day's  basis  of  quality.     Gradually  the 


tastes  of  consumers  advanced,  and 
<heir  purchasing  power  became  larger, 
so  that  mills  were  able  to  improve  the 
quality  of  their  fabrics  and  the  prices 
at  which  they  sold.  Then,  many  new 
mills  were  built  which  were  able  to 
make  fine  yarns  and  fancy  cloths,  but 
the  size  of  practically  all  of  these 
mills  was  so  large  that  for  economic 
reasons  what  might  be  called  staple 
fancy  cloths  had  to  be  produced,  at 
least  they  are  so  considered  when 
compared  with  many  of  the  novelties 
recently   offered. 


74 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Of  course,  there  Is  a  certain  por- 
tion of  higli-class  novelties  made  in 
large  domestic  mills,  but  tliey  are  not 
the  fabrics  which  we  are  considering, 
for  these  are  sold  in  small  quantities, 
and  are  usually  produced  by  specialty 
manufacturers.  The  large  production 
of  cloths  which  would  have  been  con- 
sidered extreme  novelties  only  a  short 
time  ago  have  educated  a  certain  num- 
ber of  consumers  into  demanding  ad- 
vances on  previous  novelties.  The 
whole  development  has  been  one  of 
progress,  and  there  is  no  reason  to 
believe  that  the  recent  interest  is  any- 
thing but  logical  and  that  it  will  con 
tinue  to   grow. 

At  certain  periods,  progress  seems 
to  be  greater  than  at  other  times,  due 
to  various  improvements  either  in 
manufacturing  m.ethods  or  else  in  the 
dyestuffs  and  methods  of  finishing,  but 
it  can  be  said  that  the  results  which 
are  possible  from  combinations  of  dif- 
ferent materials,  yarn  sizes,  colors, 
weaves  and  finishes  are  just  begin- 
ning to  be  understood  in  anything  like 
a  scientific  manner,  and  that  the  high- 
er range  of  prices  makes  it  possible 
to  use  them  in  combination,  whereas 
a  short  time  ago  their  use  was  largely 
impracticable  or  not  understood  in 
most  cases.  About  fifteen  years  ago 
some  of  the  silk  and  cotton  combina- 
tions often  sold  for  from  75  cents  to 
$1  a  yard,  while  to-day  they  can  be 
purchased  at  about  30  cents  a  yard  in 
the  same  constructions  and  with  a 
much  better  finish.  These  fabrics 
probably  had  much  to  do  with  educat- 
ing consumers  into  higher  prices  for 
cotton  goods,  because  previously  it 
was  the  custom  to  purchase  woolen 
material  when  the  price  was  much 
over  50  cents  a  yard.  Now  it  is  not 
at  all  unusual  to  see  all-cotton  cloths 
in  the  stocks  of  exclusive  retailers 
on  which  the  price  is  from  $3  to  $5 
a  yard,  and  in  some  cases  much 
higher. 

6'IELD   FOR    LARGE   RETAILERS. 

Many  of  such  cloths  are  without 
doubt  out  of  the  reach  of  the  small 
retailer,  because  he  finds  it  impos- 
sible to  keep  up  to  the  latest  fashions, 
and  losses  are  likely  even  though  the 
percentage   of   profit   added   is    quite 


large.  Consumers  are  not  inclined  to 
purchase  high-priced  novelties  at  a 
small  establishment,  so  that  even 
though  they  were  carried  the  demand 
would  probably  be  very  small.  Then 
the  purchase  of  any  quantity  of  high 
priced  cloth  ties  up  quite  a  little  cap- 
ital, and  curtails  the  amount  of  or- 
dinary stock  which  can  be  carried, 
this  condition  being  liable  to  make  an 
unsatisfactory  merchandise  situation. 

Large  retailers  can  handle  quite  a 
few  such  novelties,  and  the  possibili- 
ties of  loss  are  much  less,  because  thft 
purchase  of  one  undesirable  style  af- 
fects the  average  profits  but  slightly, 
and,  moreover,  the  probabilities  of  un- 
desirable styles  being  purchased  is 
much  less  in  the  case  of  a  large  re- 
tailer, because  of  a  greater  familiarity 
with  selling  conditions  and  styles. 
Profits  on  such  fabrics  are  large  in 
some  cases,  but  they  were  also 
large  in  the  past  upon  some  of  the 
cloths  which  are  considered  staples 
to-day.  On  ordinary  cloths,  the  price 
or  value  is  partly  determined  by  thb 
wearing  qualities,  but  with  many  of 
these  newer  lines  the  fabric  style  has 
much  more  infiuence  on  price,  in  fact 
many  of  such  materials  have  compar- 
atively little  wearing  value.  This  con- 
dition permits  the  making  of  special 
fabrics  in  a  comparatively  small  quan- 
tity, and  if  desirable  styles  are  creat- 
ed the  price  which  can  be  obtained  is 
practically  always  sufficient  to  allow 
a   good   profit. 

Such  manufacturing  cannot  be  suc- 
cessfully done  by  any  excepting  men 
of  ability,  who  understand  thoroughly 
the  various  features  of  cloth  making 
and  finishing,  and  who  also  can  ad- 
just style  to  fabrics  in  an  attractive 
and  different  manner.  The  problem 
does  not  call  for  the  economical  and 
systematic  management  necessary  In 
large  plants,  mainly  because  changes 
are  so  frequent  in  styles  and  fabrics 
that  each  production  is  a  problem  in 
itself.  The  making  of  such  novelties 
is  necessarily  a  small  business,  be- 
cause exclusiveness  is  sacrificed  when 
quantities  are  made,  and  perhaps  this 
feature  is  demanded  as  much  as  any 
other  in  the  purchase  of  such  cloths. 
Possibly  the  greatest  opportunity  tOi 
day  to  build  up  a  business  and  obtaiu 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


75 


an  exceptional  profit  is  in  producing 
special  fabrics  in  simall  quantities. 
Thiese  could  be  sold  direct  to  the  re- 
tailer, thereby  maldng  prices  to  the 
consumer  more  reasonable  than  at 
first  would  be  considered  possible. 

The  cloth  which  we  have  illustrat- 
ed offers  a  good  idea  of  the  methods 
which  are  sometimes  used  in  obtain- 
ing a  certain  result.  This  fabric  was 
without  doubt  produced  in  a  compara- 
tively small  quantity,  and  sells  at 
what  would  be  considered  a  high 
price,  namely  $2  a  yard,  but  when  the 
selling  price  is  compared  with  the 
cost  of  making  the  ratio  of  advance  is 


or  washed,  produces  the  irregular 
ground  effect  which  is  so  desirable  at 
present. 

The  warp  yarn  is  not  hard  twisted, 
because  a  yarn  is  strongest  when  con- 
taining practically  the  ordinary  warp 
twist,  namely  4.50  to  4.75  times  the 
square  root  of  the  yarn  size  in  turns 
per  inch,  and,  naturally,  a  strong  warp 
yarn  aids  in  the  weaving  operation. 
Fine  single  filling  of  a  hard  twist  na- 
ture when  dyed  is  also  hard  to  han- 
dle, so  this  yarn  was  made  of  two-pl> 
instead  of  single,  so  as  to  aid  in  the 
cloth  making.  A  very  much  heavier 
filling  probably  would  not  have  been 


1% 


IT 


The  Cottan  Novelty  Analyzed- 


^>iA^IlduI&L 


probably  no  greater,  if  it  is  as  great, 
as  some  of  the  more  ordinary  fine  and 
fancy  materials,  if  the  excessive  ad 
vances  by  the  retailers  be  ignored.  In 
the  first  place,  the  yarns  used  are  of 
quite  a  little  interest,  inasmuch  as 
they  represent  three  different  types  of 
material. 

The  ordinary'  warp  is  white,  and 
the  making  of  this  yarn  is  no  differ- 
ent than  for  ordinary  work.  The  size 
of  the  yarn  is  60s-l.  The  filling  yarn  is 
two-ply  of  a  finer  size,  namely,  90s-2, 
and,  in  addition  to  this  fact,  the 
yarn  is  twisted  iiarder  than  it  is  for 
ordinar>-  work.  This  extra  twist 
makes  the  yarn  have  a  crepey  char- 
axster.  and  when  the  cloth  is  finished 


so  desirable,  and  this  explains  why 
the  finer  yarn  was  made  two-ply,  so 
that  it  would  not  differ  very  much 
from  the  size  of  the  warp  yarn  used. 

The  third  yarn  and  the  one  of  great- 
est interest  is  the  novelty  yarn  which 
is  identical  for  warp  and  filling.  This 
is  made  of  three  single  threads  and 
the  bunch  of  soft  cotton  which  forms 
the  heavy  portion  of  the  yarn.  There 
are  two  twisting  processes  employed. 
The  method  of  making  is  somewhat 
as  follows,  considering  that  the  sin- 
gle yarns,  which  are  15s-],  have  al- 
ready  been   completed. 

A  spinning  frame  or  a  similar  ma- 
chine, which  has  more  than  one  set 
of  rolls,  is  used  in  twisting,  and  an 


76 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  QLOSSART 


arrangement  Is  made  whereby  one  set 
of  rolls  can  be  run  intermittently. 
Two  threads  are  placed  in  the  front 
rolls,  being  separated,  but  not  passing 
between  the  rolls  which  operate  in- 
termittently. Between  the  rolls  which 
operate  irregularly  is  placed  a  soft 
roving  yarn,  and  as  these  rolls  move 
forward  and  stop  short,  pieces  of  rov- 
ing are  fed  out  between  the  two 
threads  which,  when  the  twist  is  in- 
serted by  the  spindles  in  front  of  the 
rolls,  twist  together,  and  in  twisting 
bind  in  the  bunch  of  loose  cotton. 

The  loose  cotton  is  not  held  very 
firmly,  so  the  twisted  yarn  is  then 
taken  and  again  twisted,  but  in  the 
opposite  direction,  this  last  twisting 
process  binding  the  cotton  so  that  it 
can  be  used  satisfactorily.  These 
yarns  are  used  extensively  in  various 
kinds  of  napped  goods  where  the 
bunches  are  of  dyed  cotton,  thus  pro- 
ducing quite  attractive  patterns.  With- 
out doubt,  the  yarn  used  in  this  cloth 
was  made  on  an  ordinary  spinning 
frame,  which  was  readjusted  because 
the  spacings  of  the  bunches  are  al- 
most exactly  the  distances  which 
would  be  noted  from  the  circum- 
ference of  the  ordinary  spinning 
frame  rolls. 

Prices  for  special  yarns  have  been 
exceptionally  high  for  some  time^  in- 
asmuch as  few  are  accustomed  to 
making  them  or  have  machinery  ca- 
pable of  it,  and  the  demand  has  been 
quite  large.  The  total  yarn  size  when 
completed  is  practically  2-5,  the 
three  ends  of  15s-l  producing  a  yarn 
equal  to  5-1,  and  the  loose  cotton, 
which  is  fed  in  at  the  first  twisting 
process,  sui  plies  the  additional  weight 
to  make  the  above  named  size. 

Not  only  are  special  yarns  used  in 
producing  this  fabric  but  it  is  also 
true  that  a  good  deal  of  ingenuity 
has  been  used  in  developing  the 
weave  and  construction.  In  the  first 
place,  the  crepe  effect  is  produced  by 
the  hard  twist  filling,  as  previously 
noted.  This  crepe  effect  is  not  so 
great  as  if  a  larger  number  of  turns 
per  inch  were  inserted  in  the  yarn, 
neither  is  it  so  great  as  would  be 
noted  if  the  heavy  novelty  yarn  did 
not  tend  to  hold  out  the  fabric  rather 
than    to   allow   it   to    shrink    in    the 


width.  The  dyed  yarn  has  been  used 
so  as  to  make  the  cotton  bunches  in 
the  novelty  yarn  show  up  more  promi 
nently.  A  hard  twist  white  filling 
would  have  made  the  result  less  de- 
sirable in  most  cases,  for  it  would  not 
have  made  the  effect  produced  by  the 
novelty  yarn  so  prominent.  The 
weave  is  perhaps  of  as  great  interest 
as  the   yarns  which  have  been  used. 

It  will  be  noted  that  the  novelty 
yarn  appears  largely  on  the  face  of 
the  cloth.  This  is  of  advantage  for  a 
number  of  reasons.  First,  it  shows 
up  the  effect  better,  second,  it  does 
not  bind  down  the  novelty  yarn,  par- 
tially destroying  the  effect,  and,  third, 
it  makes  the  weaving  more  practical, 
for  there  is  less  rubbing  in  the  weav- 
ing process.  We  are  illustrating  the 
weave  which  has  been  used.  The 
marks  at  the  top  and  side  designate 
the  threads  of  novelty  yarn,  and  we 
are  giving  a  little  m.ore  than  one  re 
peat  of  the  design,  so  that  the  opera- 
tion of  the  threads  can  be  clearly 
understood. 

To  make  the  effect  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  use  eight  harnesses,  though 
possibly  a  greater  number  would  be 
used  because  of  practical  reasons. 
Note  that  the  novelty  warp  threads  are 
lifted  a  large  portion  of  the  time,  while 
the  novelty  filling  is  on  the  surface  of 
the  cloth  in  a  like  manner.  To  hold 
these  novelty  yarns  in  their  correct 
places  the  fine  warp  is  raised  next  to 
the  novelty  thread  when  it  is  lowered, 
and  the  relatively  same  method  is 
adopted  in  regard  to  the  filling.  Note 
that  all  the  novelty  yarn  weaves  exact- 
ly the  same,  except  that  on  succeed- 
ing threads  or  picks  the  weave  is 
eight  picks  or  threads  farther  advan- 
ced. One  of  the  most  troublesome 
features  in  the  use  of  novelty  yarns  is 
the  fact  that  what  are  called  patterns 
are  produced.  They  are  present  in  the 
cloth  considered,  although  the  cloth 
construction  is  very  advantageous  for 
their  partial  elimination.  The  separa- 
tion of  the  novelty  picks  and  threads 
by  a  ground  cloth  is  likely  to  break 
up  the  undersirable  effects  to  a  cer- 
tain extent. 

Because  of  the  cloth  construction 
a  box  loom  is  usually  necessary  for  the 
weaving,  but  in  this  cloth  a  pick  and 


A  OOTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


77 


pick  box  loom  must  be  used  or  one 
which  can  insert  a  single  pick  of  a 
yarn  size  or  color.  When  such  a  loom 
Is  being  used,  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to 
use  two  shuttles  containing  novelty 
yarn,  inserting  first  one  pick  from  one 
shuttle  and  then  a  second  pick  from 
another  shuttle,  for  this  breaks  up  the 
regularity  of  the  nubs  or  bunches. 
A  little  care  in  planning  the 
cloth  width  so  that  it  does  not 
correspond  to  the  repeat  of  the  bun- 
ches will  help  in  obviating  the  trouble. 

COST  OF  MAKING. 
We  have  given  an  approximate  cost 
of  producing  such  a  fabric  as  that  con- 


i^i==E===iE=!!^| 


I  ■  ■■■ 

■  ■    I 
I  ■  ■  i 

■  ■     E 


The    Weave. 

sidered,  and  it  would  probably  be  im- 
possible for  the  concerns  which  manu- 
facture this  kind  of  cloth  to  produce 
at  anywhere  near  the  price  which  is 
given.  In  the  first  place  we  have  con- 
sidered that  the  mill  making  the  cloth 
also  produced  the  yarn  used,  a  con- 
dition which  is  entirely  unlikely.  If 
yarns  were  purchased  it  is  very  likel> 
that  the  special  ones  might  cost  nearly 
twice  as  much  as  the  figures  we  have 
given,  for  there  would  be  the  extra 
profits  resulting  from  the  large  de- 
mand, and,  in  addition,  the  various 
shipping  and  other  expenses  which 
are  noted  on  yarns  purchased, 
but  that  are  not  noted  when 
the  yarns  are  produced  in  the  plant 
weaving  the  cloth. 


The  figures  given  are  for  a  reason- 
able production,  but  the  cost  might 
be  increased  somewhat,  due  to  very 
small  orders.  Then  the  expenses  of 
experimental  work  can  never  be  es- 
timated very  accurately  for  any  one 
cloth,  and  much  of  this  work  might 
be  necessary  before  the  correct  re- 
sults were  obtained.  With  a  concern 
purchasing  its  yarn  it  is  very  likely 
that  the  cost  per  yard  would  be  some- 
where about  45  to  50  cents.  Profits 
must  be  considerably  higher  per 
loom  on  such  work  than  on  ordinary 
fabrics,  because  the  risk  is  greater, 
and  because  the  small  number  of 
looms  operated  makes  it  necessary  if 
a  reasonable  return  is  to  be  obtained. 
The  demand  for  any  style  has  much 
to  do  with  the  profit  which 
is  possible,  and  the  variation 
will  be  wider  than  on  ordi- 
nary cloths,  because  competition  is 
not  so  keen.  Possibly,  a  profit  of  ten 
cents  a  yard  would  not  be  exceptional 
for  a  cloth  such  as  that  considered. 

AN  IMPORTED  FABRIC. 

As  this  fabric  is  an  imported  one 
there  are  duties  to  be  added  to  the 
foreign  selling  price,  and  this  explains 
partly  the  high  price.  Assuming  that 
the  cloth  was  sold  at  55  cents  a  yard, 
the  retail  price  is  not  exceptionally 
high,  as  it  is  only  about  four  times 
the  mill  selling  price,  and  the  higher 
cost  over  ordinary  cloths  is  due  to  the 
retailer's  added  ratio  of  profit.  There 
is  a  large  opportunity  for  the  develop- 
ment of  special  styles  in  the  domes- 
tic market,  inasmuch  as  prices  to-day 
are  quite  high  and  are  likely  to  con- 
tinue so.  There  is  no  great  reason 
to  believe  that  the  domestic  buyers 
will  purchase  foreign  goods  if  the 
domestic  product  is  just  as  desirable 
and  contains  up-to-date  and  exclusive 
styles.  Whether  the  retailer  sells 
such  novelty  cloths  as  imported  or 
not  is  of  comparatively  little  impor- 
tance to  the  manufacturer,  because  it 
he  can  obtain  the  bulk  of  such  busi- 
ness the  imported  idea  will  be  grad- 
ually eliminated,  in  fact  it  is  fast  be- 
ing outgrown  to-day. 

Possibly,  one  of  the  greatest  prob- 
lems in  making  yarns  of  a  novelty 
character  is  in  obtaining  the  correct 


78 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


cost  of  production.  The  various  ele-  After  the  correct  yarn  sizes  are  ob- 
ments  of  cost  should  he  considered  tained,  the  weight  of  the  cloth  is  no 
carefully,  such  as  the  take-ups  on  the  more  difficult  to  obtain  than  for  or- 
various  yarns  in  the  twisting  process  dinary  materials,  although  the  width 
and  their  cost,  and  the  losses  which  ^f  the  cloth  in  the  reed  must  be  care- 
may  be  noted,  and.  in  addition,   care  ^  jj      ascertained,    because     there     is 

must  be  used  in  such  yarns  as  that  .;        ,  ,'.  , .      .,  .      ..-^^^ 

produced    to    see     that     correct     per-  ^.^^^e  a  large  shr  nkage  in  this  direc- 

centages  of  the  yarn  size  produced  are  ^lon.      Probably    there   are    very    few 

obtained.     The   cost   of   experimenta-  fabrics  selling  to-day  which  illustrate 

tion  should  also  be  considered  careful-  any  better  some  of  the  extreme  ideas 

ly,  for  this    one  feature  sometimes   will  which  are  being  successfully  adapted 

make  a  very  much  higher  cost  than  to  high-class  production  on  the  cloth 

would  otherwise  be  thought  possible.  we  have  presented. 

PATTERN    WARP 
3  3 

60/1  Am.  combed  bleached  —     4  3     —     =      1,98.^) 

24  24 

2^    novelty  1  =         263 

263  X  2,248   total  ends. 

PATTERN   FILLING. 
90/2  Am.  combed  dyed         7 
2  V4    novelty  1 

48   picks  per  inch. 

YARN  COST. 

60/1    bleached 52c.   per  lb. 

90/2  dyed,   extra  twist    91c.   per  lb. 

214    novelty   (3  ends  15/1   and   roving;   2   twisting  operations) 24c.    per  lb. 

CLOTH   COST. 

1,985  ends   60/1    bleached    +    8%    take-up   =   .0427    (5)    52c =   $  .0223 

263   ends    2V4    novelty         -f    2%    take-up   =   .1419    ®    24c =        .0340 

42   picks   90/2   dyed  =   .0600    @    91c =        .0546 

6   picks  214   novelty  =   .1714    (g)    24c =        .0412 

Weaving    .0705 

Expenses     .0214 

$   .2439 
Finishing,   etc .0250 

Mill   cost  under   most   favorable   circumstances $   .2689 

Yards  per  pound,   2.4  0  finished. 


MERCERIZED  CORD 

A  new  fabric  which  is  now  being 
offered  for  the  first  time  in  the  finish- 
ed state  by  retailers  is  the  mercerized 
corded  fabric,  of  which  we  are  giving 
an  analysis,  and  of  which  an  illustra- 
tion is  presented.  For  a  number  of 
years,  corded  fabrics  have  been  quite 
large  sellers,  and  the  lines  have  in- 
cluded Russian  cords  and  Bedford 
cords  in  various  combinations  and 
colors,  and  on  both  light  and  heavy 
ground  fabrics.  The  yarns  used  in 
making  these  cloths  have  been  of 
widely  varying  sizes  and  qualities,  al- 
though, as  a  general  thing,  the  yarns 
used  in  Bedford  cords  have  been  of 
rather  fine  sizes,  and  the  cloth  count 
has  been  comparatively  high,  at  least 


when  compared  with  most  lines  of  cot- 
ton goods.  Russian  cords  being  an 
addition  to  a  fabric,  rather  than  a 
component  part  of  it,  have  been  ap- 
plied to  all  kinds  of  materials,  al- 
though because  of  the  additional  cost, 
the  idea  has  been  used  more  exten- 
sively on  high  quality  merchandise 
which  sells  at  a  rather  high  price. 
The  extensive  sale  of  these  two  lines 
has  made  consumers  familiar  with 
such  styles,  but  competition  has  be- 
come more  keen  thar.  it  was,  and  for 
this  reason,  the  profit  obtainable  on 
the  above  two  fabrics  is  smaller  than 
it  was. 

As  usually  happens  with  fancy 
cloths  or  new  styles,  a  change  has  to 
be  made  through  the  use  of  addition- 
al cloth  features,  or  by  lower  prices 
so  as  to  make  the  cloth  desirable  for 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


79 


a  longer  time,  although,  naturally,  oth- 
er fabrics  will  be  developed,  and  take 
the  place  of  some  former  styles.  Voiles 
were  sold  in  large  quantities  in  the 
plain  state  when  they  were  first  de- 
veloped, and  gradually  novelty  fea- 
tures had  to  be  added,  such  as  crowd- 
ed stripes,  checks  and  silk  stripes 
with  jacquard  figures,  in  order  to  keep 
up  the  distribution.  The  same  thing 
has  happened  on  poplins,  and  is  now 
taking  place  on  fabrlcj  composed  of 
novelty  yarns,  and  the  same  condition 
will  be  noted  on  fancy  fabrics  which 
are  in  demand  in  the  future.  Of  course, 
all  kinds  of  voiles  are  still  being  sold, 
and  so  are  poplins  and  other  cloths 
which  formerly  sold  well,  but  this  is 
mainly  because  they  are  desirable  to 
many  consumers,  although  the  above 
statements  apply  generally  to  the 
whole  development  in  the  sale  of  fancy 
fabrics. 

The  corded  fabric  now  being  offered 
has  been  made  so  as  to  take  the  place 
of  certain  of  the  Russian  and  Bedford 
cords,  inasmuch  as  the  demand  for 
these  has  been  declining.  The  reason 
why  it  can  be  sold  is  partly  because 
it  can  be  made  at  a  comparatively 
low  price,  and  partly  because  the  cloth 
contains  some  new  ideas.  In  a  gen- 
eral way,  corded  fabrics  are  used  for 
all  the  purposes  for  which  medium- 
weight  cotton  cloth  is  desirable,  al- 
though, possibly,  waistings,  shirtings 
and  dress  materials  form  the  largest 
portions  of  the  sale.  The  cloth  we  have 
analyzed  is  rather  stiff  for  some  uses, 
mainly  because  there  are  so  many 
cords  in  the  material,  but  other  pat- 
terns contain  fewer  cords,  and  would 
be  possibly  considered  more  desirable 
for  ordinary  use  by  many  consumers. 

Inasmuch  as  the  cloth  is  mercerized 
in  the  finishing  process,  the  planning 
of  the  construction  involves  much  the 
same  principles  as  noted  when  mak- 
ing an  ordinary  mercerized  fabric, 
that  is,  a  soft  twist  filling  yarn,  and 
a  greater  number  of  picks  than  threads 
so  ixs  to  produce  a  more  lustrous  ef- 
fect when  mercerized.  This  method  of 
making  cloth  is  usually  designated  as 
a  soisette  construction.  When  the 
warp  is  to  be  treated,  the  same  con- 
•litions  apply,  only  it  is  impossible  to 
weave  a  soft  twist  single  warp  yarn, 
and  to  obtain  satisfactory  results,  the 


warp  is  made  of  fine  yarn,  and  the 
single  yarns  twisted  into  a,  two-ply 
form  with  a  comparatively  few  turns 
per  inch.  One  of  the  constructions 
which  is  largely  used  when  the  filling 
is  to  be  mercerized  is  a  count  of  64  x 
72,  and  with  50-1  warp,  and  30-1  soft 
twist  filling,  while  when  the  warp  is 
to  be  mercerized  the  most  common  con- 
struction used  is  100  x  48,  with  60-2 
soft  twist  warp  and  25-1  filling.  The 
yarns  will  vary  slightly  in  different 
mills,  but  the  general  results  are  very 
similar.  The  ground  construction 
which  has  been  used  in  the  cloth  ana- 
lyzed is  74  X  96,  with  50-1  warp  and 
30-1  filling.  Many  fine  mercerized  fabr 
rics  have  a  count  of  72  x  104,  with 
70-1  or  80-1  warp  and  40-1 
soft  twist  filling.  Thus,  it  will 
be  noted  that  the  well-known 
idea  of  fabric  construction  has 
been  followed,  but  that  a  slightly  low- 
er filling  count  has  been  used,  togeth- 
er with  yarns  about  the  same  as  in 
the  lower  count  mercerized  fabric  pre- 
viously mentioned. 

THE  COARSER  SIZES. 

The  coarser  sizes  of  yarns  used 
more  than  offset  the  slightly  lower  fill- 
ing count,  so  that  a  rather  firm  fabric 
results,  and  the  construction  would 
not  be  used  were  the  fabric  to  be 
made  entirely  of  plan  weave.  The  rea- 
son why  these  coarse  yarns  have  been 
used  is  to  make  a  satisfactory  fabric 
when  the  large  number  of  cords  have 
been  introduced.  These  are  so  large 
that  with  the  ordinary  fine  yarn  con- 
structions they  would  undoubtedly 
slip  in  the  material,  and  produce  an 
undesirable  result.  Another  feature 
which  is  worthy  of  note  is  in  regard 
to  the  weave,  which  has  been  applied 
to  the  cords.  On  most  fabrics,  when  an 
ordinary  cord  is  used,  the  cord  will 
weave  just  the  same  as  the  threads  in 
a  plain  cloth,  namely,  be  raised  for 
one  pick,  and  depressed  for  the  follow- 
ing one,  while  in  this  cloth,  the  cord 
is  raised  for  one  pick,  and  depressed 
for  the  following  two  picks.  This 
causes  the  filling  to  float  over  the 
cords  two-thirds  of  the  time,  and  par- 
tially covers  them  up,  acting  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner  to  the  crossing  thread  in 
a  leno  weave  in  a  fabric  containing 
the     Russian  cord.     The  method     of 


80 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


weaving  makes  a  rather  soft  cord, 
which  will  not  wear  out  the  picks  of 
filling  so  rapidly  when  it  is  washed 
and  ironed,  as  if  it  had  been  bound  in 
more  firmly,  but  the  cord  does  not 
stand  out  so  sharply  as  when  produced 
by  the  leno  weave. 

This  fabric  in  a  large  majority  of 
instances  should  be  classed  among 
fancy  materials,  and  as  a  fancy  mill 
product.  There  are  various  reasons 
why  this  should  be  so,  and  probably 
the  first  is  that  the  yarns  all  vary  so 
much  in  size  and  character.  Few  cloth 
mills,  excepting  those  making  fancy 
materials,  produce  any  soft  twist  fill- 
ing.  Second,  some  of  the  yarns     are 


probable  that  changes  to  a  more  fancy 
cloth  would  soon  take  place,  eliminat- 
ing the  demand  and  causing  a  mill  to 
be  short  of  orders.  This  is  one  great 
reason  why  staple  cloth  make.s  are  so 
seldom  desirous  of  changing  from  their 
regular  fabrics  even  if  the  possibilities 
of  profit  appear  somewhat  greater  when 
the  demand  is  at  its  best.  There  are 
in  addition  the  mechanical  and  labor 
troubles  which  often  deter  certain 
manufacturers  from  making  lines  of 
fabrics  which  are  different  from  those 
which  they  regularly  produce.  Such 
troubles  include  such  items  as  in- 
correct gears  for  frames  and  unbalanc- 
ed mill  organization  with  too  few  or 


Mercerized  Cord. 


■made  of  combed  stock.  There  are  mills 
which  make  combed  yarn  fabrics  with 
what  might  be  called  plain  weaves,  but 
most  of  them  use  no  ply  yarn  at  all 
in  any  of  their  constructions  and  in 
few  instances  do  they  produce  very 
heavy  cloths.  Third,  because  of  the 
weave  which  has  been  used.  This  is  a 
comparatively  simple  one,  but  it  would 
not  be  liable  to  be  woven  on  a  cam 
loom  or  on  other  looms  making  simple 
effects,  but  rather  in  a  fancy  cloth 
mill  where  dobby  looms  are  available. 
Fourth,  such  a  construction  would  not 
be  desirable  for  some  mills,  mainly  be- 
cause the  demand  for  the  cloth  would 
not  last.  Even  if  a  mill  might  be  able 
to  produce  such  a  fabric,  it  is  entirely 


too  many  frames  of  certain  kinds, 
reeds  which  are  not  suitable  for  the 
cloth  count  which  is  to  be  made  or  if 
new  ones  are  purchased  they  are  likely 
to  spoil  through  subsequent  standing 
without  being  used.  Other  features  al- 
so might  be  added  to  those  enumer 
ated.  Regarding  the  labor  diflicul- 
ties  it  can  be  said  that  sometimes 
there  are  too  few  or  too  many  employ- 
es, if  changes  in  product  are  to  be 
made,  and  what  is  more  of  importance 
it  usually  happens  that  a  change 
means  that  more  complicated  con- 
structions or  weaves  are  to  be  used, 
and  inasmuch  as  the  help  is  unused  to 
changes,  time  will  be  lost  and  percent- 
ages of  production  decline  over  nor- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SI 


mal,  and  in  addition  the  number  of 
seconds  are  likely  to  increase,  thus 
making  the  actual  profits  less  than 
appearances  would  indicate  if  a  cloth 
were  to  be  continually  woven.  These 
fabrics  are  practically  never  produced 
on  automatic  looms,  because  very  few 
fancy  mills  contain  any  such  equip- 
ment and  also  because  the  quality  of 
the  cloth  has  to  be  somewhat  better 
than  is  produced  by  such  methods. 

It  is  very  probable  that  the  heavy 
cord  is  placed  on  more  than  a  single 
harness  because  of  the  weight  of  yarn 
which  has  to  be  lifted,  although  so  far 
as  the  weave  is  concerned  a  single 
harness  would  be  sufficient.  When  the 
warp  is  drawn  in  and  reeded  it  is 
necessary  to  place  the  cord  in  two  sep- 
arate heddles  and  dents  so  as  to  make 
them  weave  satisfactorily,  and  this  is 
also  another  reason  why  the  cord 
would  be  placed  on  two  harnesses 
which  weave  the  same. 

Whenever  a  new  idea  is  developed, 
either  in  connection  with  a  fabric's 
construction,  finish  or  both,  it  is  very 
likely  that  a  good  profit  is  obtained 
therefor.  Usually  there  will  be  a 
greater  or  less  amount  of  competition 
afterward  and  these  first  high  profits 
will  be  reduced  so  that  it  might  be 
said  that  on  some  few  fabrics  man- 
ufacturers dictate  the  selling  prices. 
Most  grey  fabrics  have  a  good  deal  of 
competition  regarding  prices,  and  this 
keeps  excessive  profits  at  compara- 
tively low  levels.  For  all  fabrics  ex- 
cepting those  which  are  especially  new, 
a  manufacturer  should  have  a  com- 
paratively accurate  idea  regarding  the 
profits  which  each  cloth  should  carry. 
These  profits  should  be  determined 
somewhat  by  the  investment  in  the 
mill  organization,  although,  of  course, 
manufacturing  ability  has  much  to  do 
with  the  success  of  one  mill  and  the 
failure  of  another,  and  a  good  deal 
depends  upon  the  demand.  A  good 
many  manufacturers  have  a  general 
idea  regarding  the  total  profits  they 
believe  they  should  obtain,  but  often 
they  are  not  especially  particular  in 
the  methods  they  adopt  in  setting 
prices  so  that  their  various  prices  will 
all  bear  the  same  proportion  of  the 
total  profit. 

Some  figure  out  in  a  comparatively 
accurate  manner  the  net  cost  of  their 


goods,  adding  to  this  cost  an  arbitrary 
amount  as  the  profit.  This  arbitrary 
amount  is  obtained  by  dividing 
the  total  estimated  profit  by  the 
total  yardage  produced.  For  a 
mill  which  makes  only  one  kind 
of  cloth,  such  a  method  is  en- 
tirely satisfactory,  but  for  a  mill 
which  produces  quite  a  number  of 
constructions  this  method  is  incorrect, 
and  the  various  cloths  are  likely  to  be 
quoted  at  wrong  prices.  This  allows 
other  sellers  to  obtain  business  which 
the  mill  producing  the  cloth  should 
have  obtained  and  makes  a  low  price 
with  small  profits  or  forces  the  market 
on  other  fabrics. 

Of  course,  it  might  be  said  that  com- 
petitors regulate  a  mill's  prices  and 
this  is  true  on  certain  lines  to  an  ex- 
tent, which  is  greater  on  grey  goods 
than  it  Is  on  dyed  yarn  fabrics,  but 
nevertheless  many  goods  are  sold  on 
prices  which  are  entirely  designated 
by  the  sellers.  The  profits  should  be 
based  on  the  relative  production 
of  the  producing  unit,  viz.,  the  looms. 
If  one  cloth  averages  to  produce  at 
the  rat©  of  100  yards  per  week,  while 
another  produces  at  the  rate  of  200 
yards  per  week.  It  is  incorrect  to  ex- 
pect that  each  cloth  must  return  the 
same  profit  per  yard  to  the  manufac- 
turer. We  have  used  the  weekly  basis 
of  production.  Inasmuch  as  most  mill 
reports  are  submitted  in  such  form. 
The  production  of  any  cloth  is  based 
on  the  speed  of  the  loom,  the  picks 
per  Inch  In  the  cloth,  and  the  actual 
percentage  which  Is  obtained  when 
compared  with  the  theoretical  one. 
Such  results  are  available  only 
after  careful  Investigation,  and 
the  keeping  of  accurate  records. 
A  loom  might  actually  pro- 
duce when  the  warp  is  in  the  frame 
at  the  rate  of  85  per  cent,  but  due  to 
changing  or  waiting  for  warps  or  oth- 
er features,  the  production  rate  might 
fall  to  80  per  cent,  or  less,  over  the 
space  of  a  year's  time.  To  base  the 
production  and  profits  on  a  high  rate 
would  be  to  receive  a  smaller  profit 
than  expected  and  to  name  a  price 
too  low  on  the  cloth.  For  example, 
suppose  a  mill  cost  $1,000,000. 
and  contains  1,200  looms.  It  Is 
desired  to  obtain  a  rate  of  12  per  cent 
net  profit.    This  is  $120,000  per  year, 


S2 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


or  approximately  $2,300  per  week. 
When  this  amount  is  placed  on  a  loom 
or  production  basis,  the  net  profit 
which  must  be  obtained  per  loom  per 
week  is  approximately  $1.92.  A  cer- 
tain style  of  cloth  is  being  made, 
and  by  careful  records,  it  is 
found  that  the  cloth  will  be  pro- 
duced at  the  rate  of  132  yards 
per  week  average.  With  the  two 
items  we  have  obtained,  namely,  $1.92 
profit  per  loom  per  week,  and  132 
yards  average  production  per  week, 
the  amount  each  yard  of  cloth  should 
carry  as  profit  is  easily  ascertained. 
$1.92  divided  by  132  yards  equals  1.45 
cents  per  yard  profit.  The  same  meth- 
od can  be  adopted  with  the  various 
styles  which  are  running,  and  if  a 
new  cloth  is  to  be  made  on  which  a 
price  has  to  be  named,  careful  com- 
parison should  be  mar.e  with  previous 
styles,  so  that  no  radically  incorrect 
estimates  are  made  regarding  the 
amount  of  cloth  which  will  be  pro- 
duced. If  the  above  method  was  used 
in  connection  with  a  correct  cloth  cost, 
it  is  certain  that  it  would  eliminate 
some  of  the  fabrics  which  are  now 
sold  at  unreasonably  high  or  low  quo- 
tations in  not  alone  cotton  cloths,  but 
also  in  other  materials,  and  give  a 
better  idea  to  manufacturers  as  to 
what  their  profit  was  likely  to  be. 

This  fabric  has  been  made  with  a 
certain  purpose  in  view,  that  is,  of 
being  mercerized  before  it  has  to  be 
sold.  Some  cloths  are  mercerized  af- 
.ter  they  are  bleached,  but  in  the  ma- 
jority of  cases,  it  is  probable  that 
they  are  mercerized  before  the  bleach- 
ing takes  place.  The  fabric  is  also 
piece  dyed  in  various  colors,  these  de- 
pending upon  the  tastes  of  the  buyers 
and  the  styles  of  the  season.  A  few 
of  the  features  which  aid  in  the  mer- 
cerization  process  may  be  of  interest. 

A  comparatively  few  years  ago,  it 
was  considered  that  mercerization  did 
not  affect  the  short  cotton  fibres  as 
much  as  it  did  the  longer  ones.  This 
was  due  more  to  mechanical  difficul- 
ties than  to  actual  theory.  The  lustre 
on  cotton  fibres  when  mercerized  is 
obtained  because  the  fibres  become 
more  or  less  like  small  glass  rods  and 
reflect  the  light,  and  inasmuch  as  long 
cotton  fibres  when  used  in  yarn  per- 
mitted a  lower  standard  of  twist  with 


straighter  fibres,  it  appeared  as  if  the 
longer  fibres  gave  better  results  than 
the  shorter  ones.  When  soft  twist  fill- 
ing is  being  used,  it  is  customary  to 
comb  the  cotton  so  as  to  produce  a 
better  yarn,  and  this  allows  a  lower 
standard  of  twist,  with  less  twisting  of 
the  fibres  and  a  more  lustrous  result 
when  the  fabric  is  mercerized. 

THE  PROCESS  IMPROVED. 
The  process  has  been  improved  a 
great  deal  through  extensive  use,  and 
although  combed  yarn  produced  from 
long  staple  cotton  still  shows  the  best 
results,  the  process  is  being  applied 
very  extensively  to  many  fabrics  made 
of  carded  yarns.  Reduction  in  prices 
has  made  this  'possible,  inasmuch  as 
it  permits  the  obtaining  of  a  higher 
price  for  the  cloth.  The  price  of  mer- 
cerizing and  dyeing  a  fabric  such  as 
that  considered  will  vary  somewhat 
with  different  concerns,  but  for  ordi- 
nary fabrics,  the  price  is  about  one 
and  one-half  cents  per  yard.  The  cloth 
is  much  heavier  than  the  ground  con- 
struction and  the  yarns  used  would 
indicate,  because  the  cords  add  quite  a 
little  weight  to  the  cloth.  There  is 
quite  a  little  take-up  on  the  fine  warp 
yarn,  due  to  the  large  number  of  picks 
of  filling,  but  on  the  cords  there  is  com- 
paratively little  take-up,  the  amount 
given  being  partly  the  loss  which  is 
due  to  the  various  processes.  The 
heavy  cords  affect  the  stretch  of  the 
cloth  to  a  certain  extent,  and  there 
will  not  be  such  a  large  gain  in  fin- 
ishing as  would  be  noted  were  the 
cloth  made  entirely  plain  and  with 
no  cords.  The  method  of  finding  the 
various  weights  of  the  yarns  used,  and 
the  total  weight  of  the  cloth  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

1,452   ends   h-    (50/1    X    480)    =   .0346,   weight 

of    fine    warp   without   take-up. 
11%  take-up  In  weaving. 
.0346    -f-    .89     =    .0389,    total    weight    of    fine 

warp    per   yard   of   woven    cloth. 
846  ends  -^    (20/2   X    840)    =  .1007,  weight  of 

ply   warp   without   take-up. 
2%   take-up  in  weaving. 
.1007    -V-    .98    =    .1028,     total    weight    of    ply 

warp  per  vard  of  woven  cloth. 
36  picks  X  29%"  reed  width  X  36" 

=       2,816 

36" 

yds.    of   filling   per   yard    of   cloth. 
2,816    -H-    (30/1    X    840)    =   .1117,   total   weight 

of    filling    per  yard    of   cloth." 
.0389    -f    .1028    -I-   .1117   =   .2534,   total  weight 

per   yard. 
1.0000     -r-     .2534     =     3.95     yards     per     pound 

(grey). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY  S3 


MERCERIZED  COKD. 
PATTERN. 
2  2 

50/1   Am.   combed  warp  —     6        4        2     —     =      1,452 

10  10 

:;0/2   Am.   carded   warp  6  =         846 

141  X  2,298   total  ends. 

30/1   Am.   combed   filling,    soft   twist,    96   picks. 

34   reed;    2y%"   reed   width;    27"   grey    width,    26% "-27"    finished    width. 
74    X    96   ground   count   grey;    85    X    94   over   all   count    finished. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 

waste,      Twist- 
Cotton,         etc.  ing. 
50/1  Am.  combed  warp,   1  5-16"  staple;   10  hank  dou.  rov.,      21c.          16  %c.  =   37Vi2c. 
20/2   Am.   carded   warp,    IVlo"  staple;    4   hanlc  dou.   rov.,            13  ^^c.        4V2C.         %,c.      =    Is^i. 
30/1   Am.   combed  filling,    1%"  staple;  7   hank  dou.   rov.,          15c.            SV^c.  =    23  Wi- 

COST. 

1,452   ends   50/1   Am.   combed   warp    +    11%    take-up    =   .0389    ®    37%c =  $   .OHil 

846   ends   20/2   Am.   carded   warp    +    2%    take-up        =   .1028    @    18%c =  .0193 

90  picks  30/1    Am.   combed    filling,    solt    twist              =   .1117    4*    23  Vic =  .0263 

Weaving    .014  1 

Expenses    .0161 

$    .0904 
Selling     .001 N 


Net  mill  cost    (grey) $   .0922 

Selling   price   to   converter   or   mill   selling   price    (grey) .lOou 

Bleaching,    mercerizing,    dyeing,    etc .OlSU 

Cost  to  converter   (not  including  expenses) .120U 

Cost   to  jobber    .137b 

Cost   to   retailer    .1750 

Cost   to  consumer    .2500 


Yards  per  pound  3.95   (grey). 


NEW  SILK  ANDGOTTON  FABRICS 


mills  have  produced  comparatively 
few  such  goods,  and  their  finish  is 
not  so  desirable  as  that  of  the  domes- 
Possibly  no  class  of  fabrics  pro-  tic  cloth, 
duced  in  cotton  mills  has  been  of  There  is  no  reason  why  many  do- 
more  interest  to  buyers  than  the  silk  mestic  mills  cotSd  not  have  produced 
and  cotton  materials  which  have  re-  such  goods  quite  a  long  time  ago,  be- 
cently  been  selling,  and  on  which  cause  the  machinery  necessary  was 
mills  have  orders  for  as  long  future  available,  although  not  so  extensive  as 
dating  as  any  other  kind  of  fancy  to-day,  and  is  no  different  than  thai 
fabric.  That  there  has  been  a  phe-  used  in  making  ordinary  fancy  cotton 
nomenal  growth  in  the  sales  of  such  cloths,  but  due  to  inexperience  in 
cloth  is  generally  well  known  in  the  handling  silk  yarn  and  other  reasons, 
trade,  but  few  consider  how  compara-  their  production  was  attempted  by 
tively  recent  the  growth  has  been,  only  a  few  mills.  Probably  the  big- 
and  why  such  results  have  occurred.  gest  reason  why  few  of  such  cloths 
It  might  be  well  to  state  that  the  for-  were  produced  was  because  the  de- 
sign development  has  not  been  near-  mand  had  not  been  developed  to  any 
ly  so  rapid,  when  such  lines  are  con-  great  extent.  Until  consumers  become 
sidered,  as  has  the  domestic,  and  used  to  any  fabric,  it  is  very  likely 
therefore  quite  a  good  many  silk  and  that  the  sale  will  be  comparatively 
cotton  fabrics  are  exported  to-day,  small.  At  first  the  quantities  made 
although  the  reason  for  exportation  is  were  small,  and  the  profits  of  practical- 
probably  not  because  of  lower  costs  ly  all  sellers  were  large,  but  through 
of  production,  although  this  has  an  in-  inexperience  in  finishing  the  re- 
fluence  on  the  sale,  but  rath-  suits  were  in  no  way  comparable  t.i 
er     due     to       the     fact  that   foreigP  that    of    the    fabric    sold    at    present. 


84 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Many  of  the  cloths  now  selling  at  25 
cents  to  29  cents  per  yard  were  for- 
merly sold  at  from  75  cents  to  $1  per 
yard,  and  the  finish,  or  color,  was  not 
nearly  so  desirable  as  it  is  to-day, 
these  facts  indicating  the  progress 
which  has  taken  place,  and  showing 
that  consumers  are  obtaining  much 
more  value  than  they  formerly  did. 

Inasmuch  as  these  silk  and  cotton 
materials  offer  possibilities  in  finish- 
ing and  weave  effects  not  noted  on 
entire  cotton  cloths,  it  would  natural- 
ly be  expected  that  they  would  be- 
come a  staple  article  by  the  present 
time.  Up  to  about  three  years  ago  the 
development  of  the  demand  indicated 
that  they  were  fast  becoming  staples, 
for  they  were  sold  at  reasonable 
prices,  and  filled  a  need  which  neither 
all  silk  nor  all  cotton  could.  Then  a 
greater  number  of  converters  became 
acquainted  with  the  fabric  construc- 
tion, and  in  order  to  beat  their  com- 
petitors, they  began  to  order  from  the 
manufacturers'  fabrics  on  which  the 
construction  was  not  so  high  as  it 
formerly  was.  If  a  buyer  desired  a 
low  construction  It  was  of  little  im- 
portance to  the  manufacturer,  so  long 
as  a  legitimate  profit  was  secured  in 
the  cloth  making,  and  gradually  the 
constructions  which  had  been  found 
satisfactory  were  cut  until  little  real 
worth  was  left  in  the  materials.  This 
could  easily  be  done,  because  the  cloth 
effect  is  not  changed  very  much 
through  the  use  of  a  smaller  number 
of  picks,  the  difference  being  noted 
in  the  fabric  wear. 

We  are  acquainted  with  instances 
where  the  buyer  purchased  three 
widely  varying  constructions  in  a  silk 
and  cotton  cloth  with  the  same  num- 
ber of  warp  threads  per  inch,  but 
with  a  different  number  of  picks  of 
silk  filling  per  inch.  Upon  these  dif- 
ferent fabric  constructions  was  placed 
the  same  designs,  as  near  as  was  pos- 
sible, and  through  such  methods  buy- 
ers were  deceived  in  the  quality  of  the 
goods  which  they  received.  It  Is  en- 
tirely probable  that  the  cloth  prices 
for  the  various  styles  differed  some- 
what, but  undoubtedly  the  parties 
who  purchased  the  cloths  delivered 
last  received  far  less  value  than  those 
who  bought  the  ones  first  offered.  The 


highest  count  cloth  was  delivered  first, 
and  gradually  the  cheaper  cloths  were 
substituted  until  conditions  became 
such  that  there  was  general 
dissatisfaction,  with  a  resulting 
radical  falling  off  in  the  de- 
mand. Naturally,  the  well-made 
fabrics  of  certain  houses  suf- 
fered in  the  decline  along  with  the 
poor  materials,  and  much  of  the  cloth 
was  sold  at  retail  at  prices  which 
must  have  represented  large  losses  to 
some  of  the  sellers. 

Such  combinations  of  material 
were,  however,  of  too  much  value  to 
consumers  to  be  long  neglected,  and 
a  comparatively  new  start  was  made 
which  has  now  become  of  large  vol- 
ume, but  it  is  well  to  note  that  the 
sale  has  been  made  on  satisfactory 
combinations,  and  that  most  of  the 
newer  lines  are  decidedly  well  made. 
Of  course,  the  greater  weight  of  silk 
used  results  in  a  greater  cost,  but  it 
gives  much  better  wear  and  a  more 
desirable  appearance.  These  cloths 
are  used  largely  for  dresses,  but  the 
other  uses  are  such  that  the  deman<l 
is  quite  large  and  an  extensive  pro 
duction  Is  possible  at  the  mill. 

One  fact  which  is  of  importance, 
and  which  is  going  to  affect  other 
lines,  is  that  many  of  the  new  ma 
terials  are  being  produced  with  a 
width  of  36  inches.  This  method  al- 
lows the  cloth  to  be  produced  at  about 
the  same  mill  cost  as  would  be  noted 
for  a  narrower  fabric,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  additional  material  neces- 
sary in  making  the  wider  width.  Most 
of  the  looms  which  are  capable  of  pro- 
ducing such  goods  can  weave  cloth  at 
least  36  inches  wide,  and  the  produc- 
tion of  any  narrower  material  is  a 
mill  waste  which  should  not  be  per- 
mitted. The  reason  why  the  narrow- 
er fabrics  were  produced  was  partly 
because  the  demand  in  the  past  had 
been  for  narrow  fabrics  and  partly  be- 
cause it  allowed  various  sellers  to  ob- 
tain the  cloth  to  sell  within  certain 
set  price  limits. 

In  a  general  way  there  are  two 
kinds  of  silk  used  in  making  the  class 
of  fabrics  we  are  considering,  namely. 
Canton  and  Tussah.  The  silk  sizes 
win  vary  somewhat,  depending  upon 
the  fabric  which  is  to  be    produced, 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


t6 


but  by  far  the  largest  quantities  are  of 
32-38  two-thread  Tussah  and  of  14-16 
two-thread  Canton.  Most  of  the  silks 
used  are  two-thread,  although  22-26 
Canton  is  used  in  place  of  the  14-16 
two-thread,  as  it  is  somewhat  finer 
and  allows  a  slightly  lower  cost  of 
production,  although  the  resulting 
cloth  is  not  quite  so  desirable  as  when 
the  heavier  two-thread  silk  is  used. 

Recently,  there  has  been  quite  a  lit- 
tle three-thread  silk  used  both  in  Can- 
ton and  also  in  Tussah,  but  the  gen- 
eral tendency  has  been  to  increase 
the  number  of  picks  in  the  cloth  rath- 
er than  to  change  the  size  of  the  silk 
used.     Few   of   these   silk  and   cotton 


warp  is  used  In  the  majority  of  In 
stances,  although  quite  large  quanti- 
ties of  cloth  have  been  produced  with 
a  somewhat  finer  size  of  warp.  When 
the  60s-l  warp  is  used,  the  cloth  con- 
struction is  often  about  96  x  100.  It 
will  be  noted  that  the  cloth  analyzed 
contains  40s-l  warp  with  a  somewhat 
sn-aller  number  of  picks,  but  that  the 
use  of  the  three-thread  material  more 
than  offsets  the  small  number  of 
picks,  thus  making  a  much  better  con- 
struction, St)  far  as  service  is  concern- 
ed. In  obtaining  our  cloth  weight  we 
have  used  a  yardage  of  90,000  for  the 
silk,  although  this  is  not  the  correct 
theoretical    yardage.      This    has    been 


Fancy  Silk  and  Cotton  Fabric. 


cloths  contain  warp  coarser  than  40s- 
1,  and  usually,  although  not  always, 
the  cotton  yarn  is  produced  from 
combed  stock.  Inasmuch  as  the  Tus- 
sah silk  is  rather  coarse  in  size,  it  is 
used  with  the  coarse  cotton  yarns, 
probably  most  of  such  fabrics  contain- 
ing 40s-l  or  thereabouts,  while  the 
cloth  construction  is  often  about  72  x 
68.  Oftentimes  this  construction  has 
to  be  changed  because  of  a  fancy 
ground  weave  in  the  cloth,  and  unless 
more  threads  or  picks  be  used,  the 
firmness  in  the  fabric  will  not  be  suf- 
ficient to  allow  satisfactory  wear. 

For   the   fabrics   in     which     Canton 
sil^  is  used  it  is  probable  that  a  60s-l 


done  so  as  to  allow  a  certain  amount 
of  protection  to  the  manufacturer,  in- 
asmuch as  the  silk  size  is  likely  to 
vary.  Tests  should  be  made  when  silk 
or  any  other  yarn  is  being  purchased, 
in  order  to  determine  accurately  the 
sizes,  so  that  there  will  be  no  mistake 
when  the  cloth  cost  is  figured.  This  is 
especially  true  when  the  yarn  is  high 
in   price. 

There  are  a  certain  amount  of  silk 
and  cotton  materials,  such  as  those 
considered,  which  are  woven  with  a 
plain  weave,  and  a  somewhat  larger 
quantity  made  wherein  dobby  weaves 
are  used,  but  without  doubt,  the  fab- 
rics   which   contain   jacquard    figures 


86 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


are  made  in  larger  quantities  and  are 
of  much  more  ixiLerest  at  present. 
This  is  more  true  than  it  has  been  in 
the  past,  for  tlie  demand  for  brocades 
has  made  large  figures  desirable,  .and 
these  cannot  be  satisfactorily  produc- 
ed except  on  jacquard  looms.  The 
principle  of  operation  is  no  -different 
than  on  ordinary  plain  looms,  al- 
though the  repeat  of  the  weave  is  on 
two  threads,  while  when  a  jacquard 
mechanism  is  used  it  may  be  400,  600 
or  whatever  number  of  threads  the 
mechanism  is  made  for.  The  first 
thing  in  duplicating  a  piece  of  cloth  is 
to  obtain  the  number  of  threads  and 
picks  per  inch  by  counting  with  a 
pick  glass  or  by  cutting  out  a  piece 
of  cloth  with  a  die  and  counting  the 
threads.  In  this  cloth  there  are  92 
threads  and  70  picks  per  inch  when 
finished. 

Through  the  stretch  of  the  filling 
it  is  easy  enough  to  obtain  approxi- 
mately the  width  of  the  cloth  in  the 
reed,   and   from   this   the 

SIZE    OF    THE    REED 

which  was  used  in  producing  the 
cloth.  Using  a  few  lengths  of  filling 
pulled  out  from  a  piece  of  the  cloth 
we   obtain   the   following: 

5%"    :    Sys"    ::    35%"    :    X. 

This  will  give  the  real  width  as  ap- 
proximately 38  inches.   Then  we  have: 

35%"    cloth    width    :    38"    reed    width    ::    X    : 
92   threads. 

This  result  shows  that  there  are 
86  threads  per  inch  in  the  reed,  and 
with  two  threads  per  -dent  a  43-reed 
will  be  used.  It  is  assumed  that  the 
buyer  has  supplied  the  cloth  sketch 
from  which  the  weave  design  is  to  bt 
produced.  Possibly,  this  cloth  was 
made  on  a  400-jacquard  machine, 
which  has  eight  hooks  in  a 
row,  and  for  such  a  machine  the  cor- 
rect design  or  point  paper 
would  be  obtained  as  follows: 

92     (the    finished    warp    count)  :  70    (the    fin- 
ished    filling    count)   : :  S  :  X. 

This  will  result  in  a  design  pa- 
per being  used  of  eight  squares  in 
the  warp  and  six  in  the  filling  direc- 


tion. If  a  400-machine  were  used  for 
this  cloth,  there  would  be  no  cast- 
out,  and  the  small  sketch  would  be 
ruled  up  into  50  equal  r'^visions,  each 
division  corresponding  to  one  block 
on  the  design  or  point  paper.  This 
cloth  sketch  is  also  ruled  off  horizon- 
tally to  correspond  with  the  vertical 
spaces. 

The  next  step  is  to  transfer  the 
cloth  sketch  to  the  point  paper,  keep- 
ing the  general  features  as  nearly 
identical  as  possible.  When  this  has 
been  done,  the  cloth  weave  is  painted 
in  on  the  point  paper,  introducing  dif- 
ferent combinations  to  produce  the 
various  effects.  Care  must  be  exer- 
cised that  no  long  floats  are  allowed 
to  remain,  for  often  the  results  are 
spoiled,  because  attention  has  not 
been  paid  to  such  details.  From 
this  finished  design  jacquard  cards 
are  cut  which  operate  the  loom  mech- 
anism. Each  small  square  on  the  de- 
sign is  represented  by  a  blank  space 
or  a  punched  hole  in  the  card,  and 
the  400  needles  (50  rows,  eight  in  a 
row)  corresiDond  to  the  spaces  on  the 
card.  Each  card  represents  one  pick 
of  the  design,  and  the  number  of  cards 
corresponds  to  the  total  number  of 
picks  in  the  design.  In  the  fabric 
considerd  there  would  be  approxi- 
mately 440  picks  in  the  design,  and 
the  same  number  of  cards  on  the 
loom.  The  operation  of  these  cards 
against  the  needles  in  the  jacquard 
head  either  raises  or  depresses  the 
harnesses  which  contain  the  eyes 
through  which  the  warp  yarn  is 
drawn,  and  the  action  of  the  different 
cards  produces  the  pattern  when  the 
filling  is  inserted.  The  above  is  a 
general  description  of  the  process 
which  is  noted  when  a  sample  piece 
containing  a  fancy  pattern  is  to  be 
produced. 

When  an  order  is  received,  the  orig- 
nal  set  of  cards  i5  duplicated  as  many 
times  as  there  are  looms  to  be  oper- 
ated. The  lacing  of  the  various  cards 
is  performed  by  a  lacing  machine 
which  acts  in  a  similar  manner  to  aii 
ordinary  sewing  m.achine,  binding  the 
cards  at  the  ends  and  in  the  centre. 
It  might  be  imagined  that  on  a  silk 
and  cotton  fabric  such  as  that  con- 
sidered there  would  be  a  smaller  nuro- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


«7 


ber  of  looms  per  weaver  than  on 
somewhat  simpler  dobby  patterns,  but 
such  is  not  the  case,  for  in  most  in- 
stances the  same  number  of  looms  are 
operated  as  when  dobby  patterns  are 
being  made.  Some  have  considered 
that  the  percentage  of  production 
would  not  be  so  high  when  silk  filling 
is  used,  but  through  experience  it  has 
been  found  that  the  percentage  of 
production  is  somewhat  higher  than 
for  similar  cloths  which  contain  cot- 
ton filling.  It  is,  however,  true  that 
a  weaver  will  not  produce  so  much 
cloth  as  "When  dobby  patterns  are  be- 
ing made,  but  this  is  because  of  the 
slower  loom  speed  rather  than  because 
of  the  more  complicated  weave  placed 
on  the  cloth.  The  cost  of  producing 
a  design  such  as  that  used  on  the 
cloth  analyzed  is  not  so  great  as  many 
might  believe. 

The  general  method  is  to  charge  a 
certain  price  per  pick  when  outside 
parties  accomplish  the  work,  the  cost 
to  the  mill  when  done  at  the  plant 
being  about  half  the  outside  prices. 
The  prices  per  pick  will  vary  up  to 
7i  cents  per  pick,  but  this  is  for  a 
high  count  and  complicated  ground 
weaves.  A  design  such  as  that  used 
would  cost  about  $7.50,  this  small 
sum  influencing  the  cloth  cost  per 
yard  very  slightly  when  the  orders 
received  are  of  any  size.  In  the  major- 
ity of  designs  for  silk  and  cotton 
cloths,  where  the  filling  is  of  silk,  it 
is  customary  to  produce  the  effect 
largely  by  floating  the  filling,  for  this 
allows  the  lustrous  yarn  to  form  the 
figure,  and  makes  the  results  more 
desirable.  Plain  weave  forms  the 
groundwork  of  the  fabric  in  the  large 
majority  of  instances,  and  is  neces- 
sary if  a  firm  cloth  be  produced  with 
the  comparatively  fine  sizes  of  yarns 
used. 

PROFITS  AND  FINISHING. 

Possibly  a  few  items  regarding  the 
profits  secured  by  the  various  sellers 
may  be  of  interest.  With  the  produc- 
tion which  the  loom  is  likely  to  make, 
and  the  profit  per  yard  which  we  have 
estimated,  the  profit  per  loom  per 
week  would  be  $2.90,  or  approximate- 
ly $150  per  loom  per  year.  This 
amount  should  be  responsible  for  at 
least    a    15     pe/     cent  profit    to  the 


manufacturer.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  the  manufacturer  has  quite  a  lit- 
tle money  invested  in  his  plant  and 
machinery,  usually  up>/ards  of  $1,000 
per  loom,  which  is  of  comparatively 
little  value  if  it  is  not  being  operated, 
and  for  this  reason  he  is  on  a  much 
different  basis  than  the  succeeding 
sellers. 

The  converter  obtains  a  net  profit 
of  approximately  2%  cents  per  yard, 
and  this  should  return  him  a  profit  of 
about  11  per  cent,  with  only  a  single 
turnover  of  his  goods  per  year,  but 
this  profit  must  be  compared  with  a 
mill  profit  of  15  per  cent,  where  an 
outlay  of  from  $800  to  $1,000  per  loom 
is  made,  with  only  a  converter's  out- 
lay on  the  cloth  purchased,  which  in 
this  case  is  practically  24%  cents  per 
yard.  Tlie  jobber  is  in  much  the  same 
position  as  the  converter,  and  his  prof- 
it is  somewhat  similar,  due  to  his 
greater  turnover.  The  retailer  on  this 
cloth,  will  obtain  a  gross  profit  of 
about  50  per  cent,  and  allowing  25 
per  cent,  which  is  not  far  from  cor- 
rect on  to-day's  basis  for  his  various 
expenses,  the  net  profit  secured  is 
practically  25  per  cent,  but  it  must 
be  noted  that  a  retailer  turns  over 
his  goods  a  number  of  times  a  year. 
Usually,  the  number  of  turnovers  is 
more  than  three,  so  adopting  this  as 
a  basis,  it  will  be  seen  that,  instead 
of  obtaining  the  25  per  cent  men- 
tioned above,  he  will  be  receiving  75 
per       cent.  There       has        been 

quite  a  large  profit  on  many  of  the 
new  cotton  mill  products,  because  the 
sale  has  recently  increased,  thus 
making  the  cost  of  distribution  lower 
and  the  profits  higher.  Such  fabrics 
as  that  considered  are  first  bleached, 
and  then  usually  piece  dyed  in  some 
popular  shade. 

THE  BLEACHING 
must  be  done  by  a  chemical  which 
will  harm  neither  the  silk  nor  the 
cotton.  Some  seasons  printed  patterns 
are  used  when  the  fabrics  are  sold 
in  the  white  state,  although  recently 
the  demand  has  not  been  large  for 
such  styles.  The  price  for  finishing 
and  dyeing  will  vary  somewhat,  but 
probably  three  cents  a  yard  will  give 
a  general  idea  as  to  the  price  for 
cloth    such   a?   that   considered.     The 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  QLOSSARt 


silk  is  usually  quite  a  little  lighter  in 
the  finished  cloth  than  it  is  when 
woven,  because  there  is  a  certain 
amount  of  gum  in  the  silk  yarn, 
which  gum  is  partly  removed  when 
the  cloth  is  bleached  and  fin- 
ished and  the  small  amount  ol 
starch  which  is  added  in  the  finishing 
operation  does  not  counteract  the  loss 
of  weight  in    the    finishing  process. 

These  cloths  are  finished  out  prac- 
tically to  their  grey  width  as  they 
come  from  the  loom.  Sometimes  the 
cloth  is  cross  dyed  with  the  silk  one 
color,  and  with  the  cotton  another 
while  at  other  times  the  cotton  will 
be  dyed,  and  the  silk  will  remain 
white,  so  as  to  form  a  contrast.  When 
the  sizes  of  silk  used  by  cotton  mills 
are  known,  the  analysis  of  a  silk  and 
cotton  cloth  presents  no  great  amount 
of  difficulty,  inasmuch  as  the  weights 


are  obtained  just  the  same  as  when 
an  all-cotton  cloth  is  being  treated. 
The  method  of  obtaining  the  cloth  and 
yarn  weights  is  as  follows.  (The 
size  of  the  silk  used  as  men- 
tioned previously  is  90,000  yards  per 
pound,  and  is  not  the  theoretical 
yardage,  although  a  manufacturer  can 
substitute  the  actual  size  which  he 
finds  his  silk  to  be  in  obtaining  his 
correct  weights.) 

3,300  ends  -^  (40/1  X  840)  =  .0982,  weight 
of  warp  yarn   per  yard  without   take-up. 

6%    take-up    in    weaving. 

.0982  -r-  .94  =  .1045,  total  weight  of  warp 
yarn    per    yard    of    woven    cloth. 

72  picks  per  inch  X  38"  reed  width  X  36" 

36" 

2.736    yards   of   filling   per   yard  of   cloth. 
2,736    -^     90,000       (silk      yardage)       =     .0304, 

weight   of  silk   filling   per   yard   of   cloth. 
.1045     -f-     .0304     =     .1349,     total     weight    per 

yard. 
1.0000     -7-     .1349     =     7.41     yards    per     pound 

(grey). 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

40/1   Am.  combed  warp     —     3,236     —     =   3,300  total   ends. 

16  16 

14/16  Dernier  3  thread  Canton  silk;  72   picks. 

43  reed;   38"  reed  width;   36"  grey   width;    35% -36"   finished   width. 
91    X    72   grey  count;    92    X    70   finished   count. 


YARNS. 

Cotton. 
40/1   Am.  combed  warp;   1%"  staple;   8  hank  dou.   rov.,  15c. 

14/16  3  thread  Canton  silk;  90,000  yds.  per  lb.  Ready  on  quills 


Labor, 

waste,  etc. 

U%c. 


=   26  %c. 
=      $3.80 


COST. 

3,300  ends  40/1  Am.   combed  warp   +    6%   take-up    =   .1045    @    26%c.    =   $  .0281 

72  picks  14/16  3  thread   Canton  filling =   .0304    @      |3.80   =        .1155 

Weaving    0122 

Expenses    0167 

$  .1725 
Selling    (grey)     0035 

Mill    cost    (grey) $  .1760 

Converter's   purchasing   price    from    mill    (about) 1950 

Finishing    and    converter's    expenses 0525 

Cost    to    converter     2475 

Cost   to  jobber    2750 

Cost  to   retailer    3250 

Cost  to  consumer    4800 

Yards    per    pound    7.41    (grey). 


•*  ♦  » 


NOVELTY  YARN  STRIPED  CREPE 

That  there  has  been  a  great  im- 
provement in  the  fancy  cotton  fabrics 
produced  in  domestic  mills  is  well 
recognized  by  any  one  who  is  at  all 
familiar  with  selling  conditions.  This 
Improvement  includes  not  only  the 
styling    of   the   fabric,    but   also     the 


quality  of  the  yarns  from  which  the 
cloths  are  woven.  It  may  be  that  the 
class  of  fabrics  which  have  been  sell- 
ing for  the  past  few  years  has  had 
much  to  do  with  the  better  appear- 
ance, but  without  doubt  a  part  at 
least  of  the  improvement  is  due  to 
the  natural  progress  of  a  rapidly 
growing  industry,  and  a  part  to  the 
increased  experience  obtained  from  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


89 


freer    interchange    of    manufacturing 
and   finisliing   knowledge. 

A  very  good  illustration  of  this 
progress  is  shown  in  the  development 
of  voile  cloths.  When  these  were  first 
produced  extensively  in  cotton,  the 
constructions  were  not  entirely  suit- 
able, and  the  yarns  were  often  irreg- 
ular and  detracted  much  from  the 
finished  results.  Gradually  mills  be- 
came accustomed  to  making  such  fab- 
rics, and  were  able  to  determine  the 
correct  amount  of  twist  and  the  right 
combinations  to  use  in  producing 
a  good  article,  and  in  order  for  other 
mills  to  obtain  business  they  had  to 
produce  better  yarn,  if  they  secured 
many  orders  on  these  fabrics,  espe- 
cially if  the  cloth  was  considered  high 
class,  and  was  to  be  sold  at  a  com- 
paratively high  price. 

The  use  of  silk  yarn  in  voile  fabrics 
often  showed  up  cotton  yarn  ir- 
regularities through  contrast,  and  for 
this  reason  forced  the  production  of 
better  yarns.  When  the  demand  for 
voiles  began  to  grow  less,  the  inter- 
est of  buyers  on  novelty  yarn  fabrics 
increased.  In  many  of  these  materials, 
the  irregular  appearance  permitted  the 
use  of  comparatively  poor  yarn,  but 
the  competition  which  developed  and 
style  changes  have  made  it  neces- 
sary to  use  much  care  if  the  best  re- 
sults be  produced.  Similar  conditions 
have  been  noted  on  crepes,  and  al- 
though the  finished  fabrics  are  rath- 
er irregular  in  appearance,  the  yarns 
must  be  better  than  for  certain  other 
similar  weight  materials,  because  the 
construction  is  low,  and  irregularities 
appear  prominently.  Possibly,  the  ideas 
which  are  being  used  most  extensive- 
ly at  present  for  fancy  cotton  fabrics 
are  novelty  yarns  and  crepe  effects. 
Cloths  made  by  such  methods  are 
used  extensively  for  dresses,  although 
there  are  other  uses,  and  for  this 
reason,  a  wide  distribution  is  possible. 
We  are  illustrating  a  garment  which 
is  made  from  one  of  the  newer  fab- 
rics, and  which  contains  ideas  some- 
what similar  to  those  in  the  fabric 
analyzed,  and  shows  in  a  general  way 
the  results  possible.  Because  light 
ground  cloths  have  sold  well,  the  use 
of  novelty  yarns  has  been  of  advan- 
tage, Inasmuch  as  their  heavy  size  has 


allowed  much  contrast  to  be  devel- 
oped, and  has  made  it  possible  for  ef- 
fects to  be  produced,  which  at  other 
times  would  be  considered  undesir- 
able. 

One  of  the  most  important  features 
in  connection  with  the  use  of  novelty 
yarns,  and  one  which  has  not  been 
mentioned  to  any  great  extent  is  that 
the  variety  and  combinations  which 
are  possible  in  fabrics  made  from 
them  are  more  extensive  than  any 
other  class  of  cotton  cloths  formerly 
produced.  A  short  investigation  into 
the  stock  of  fabrics  carried  by  any 
large  retailer  will  clearly  demonstrate 
the  above  fact.  Consumers  desire  to 
have  a  great  deal  of  variety  in  dress 
materials,  even  though  they  do  cling  to 
general  styles  when  they  are  being 
used,  and  the  use  of  novelty  yarns 
affords  an  opportunity  seldom  experi- 
enced. Probably  most  every  novelty 
yarn  fabric  is  different  in  some  es- 
sential respect  from  other  similar 
cloths,  even  though  the  general  cloth 
appearance   is   duplicated. 

The  combination  of  yarn  sizes,  the 
twist  per  inch  in  the  yarn,  and  the 
cloth  count,  all  have  a  greater  result 
on  cloth  effects  than  they  are  likely  to 
have  when  ordinary  materials  are  be- 
ing manufactured.  The  fact  that  a 
mill  has  to  use  machinery  and  yarns 
available  is  also  likely  to  affect  the 
result  obtained.  In  addition  to  the 
wide  range  of  effects  possible  from 
similar  yarns,  there  are  the  different 
methods  of  twisting,  such  as  loop, 
nub,  corkscrew,  slub  and  various  oth- 
er ideas,  both  separately  and  in  com- 
bination. In  all  these  ideas,  it  is  pos- 
sible not  only  to  use  different  sizes 
and  twists  of  yarn,  but  also  to  use 
various  colors,  and  in  some  cases 
various  combinations  of  materials. 
All  these  facts  are  responsible  for  a 
greater  variety  of  styles  than  have 
ever  before  been  possible,  and  have 
been  the  means  of 

EDUCATING  MILL  MEN 

in  regard  to  the  developing  of  fab- 
rics. 

When  novelty  yarn  cloths  first  be- 
gan to  appear,  a  large  majortty  of  mill 
men  would  have,  and  did,  state  posi- 
tively that  they  could  not  be  made  in 
most  domestic  mills.  It  is  true  that  a 


90 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


small  proportion  of  them'  cannot  be 
so  made,  but  during  the  past  two 
years  many  mill  men  who  were  for- 
merly positive  regarding  this  point 
have  found  out  that  they  can  be  suc- 
cessfully produced,  and  with  com- 
paratively no  changes  in  the  machin- 
ery of  an  ordinary  mill.  The  reason 
these  men  believed  such  yarns 
could  not  be  made  was  due  to  un- 
familiarity  with  the  subject,  and  be- 
cause many  of  them  were  operating 
in  a  rut  through  the  manufacture  of 
a  comparatively  few  styles  of  cloth, 
and  no  changes  year  in  and  year  out. 
Practically  the  entire  range  of  ef- 
fects are  produced  througn  t'  e  char- 


ing the  novelty  yarn  more  prominent. 
This  is  true  in  the  fabric  analyzed 
where  an  ordinary  four-harness  twill 
has  been  used  with  the  novelty  yarn 
on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  in  order  to 
make  it  more  prominent.  In  certain 
other  similar  lines,  somewhat  similar 
methods  are  being  used  to  show  up 
the  novelty  yarn  effects. 

NOVELTY    YARN   MAKING. 

The  novelty  yarn  used  In  the  fab- 
ric analyzed  represents  very  well  the 
general  characteristics  of  most  of 
such  materials.  It  is  produced  by  no 
special  machinery,  and  can  be  made  by 
any  mill  from    ordinary  yarns.     Two 


One   of   the   Popular  Novelty   Yarn  Cr   pes. 


acter  of  the  yarn,  and  up  to  the 
present,  very  few  attempts  have  been 
made  to  use  any  fancy  v/eaves.  Re- 
cently, the  combination  of  novelty 
yarn  with  other  fabrics  has  allowed 
a  greater  possibility  in  this  direction, 
and  certain  of  the  styles  v/hich  have 
been  developed  for  next  season's  use 
contain  simple  weaves,  which  aid  in 
the  result,  althoagh  in  most  cases 
the  prominent  feature  is  the  effect 
produced  through  the  yarn.  Naturally, 
the  size  of  the  novelty  yarn  precludes 
any  great  use  of  various  weaves,  for 
they  would  rot  be  visible  at  all,  and 
in  most  instances  the  weaves  which 
are  used  are  for  the  purpose  of  mak- 


twisting  processes  are  employed,  on« 
being  in  one  direction  and  the  othei 
in  the  reverse  direction.  There  are 
six  strands  of  yarn  employed,  al- 
though in  some  instances  fewer  are 
used  to  produce  similar  effects.  If 
special  twisters  containing  two  sets 
of  rolls  and  operating  at  different 
speeds  are  not  available,  an  ordinary 
spinning  frame  can  be  used  instead. 
For  the  yarn  considered  in  the  first 
twisting  process,  the  ground  threads 
(two  ends  of  50-1)  are  placed  in  one 
set  of  rolls,  while  the  loop  yarn  (two 
ends  of  30-1)  are  placed  in  a  second 
set  of  rolls. 

The  speed    of  the   rolls    containing 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


91 


Ihe  30-1  is  practically  twice  as  fast 
us  the  rolls  delivering  50-1.  For  this 
leasoii,  when  the  yarn  is  being  twist- 
ed, the  extra  30-1  yarn  winds  around 
the  50-1  ground  threads,  and  is  not 
held  tightly  enough  to  allow  it  to  be 
satisfactorily  used.  Quite  a  little 
Lwist  is  inserted,  inasmuch  as  a  por- 
tion of  this  twist  is  taken  out  in  the 
succeeding  reverse  twisting  operation. 
When  this  yarn  has  been  completed, 
it  is  taken  and  placed  on  another 
similar  frame,  and  is  then  retwisted 
u  iLh  two  ends  of  50-1. 

THE    RETWISTING, 

or  in  other  words  the  untwisting,  of 
the  first  yarn  loosens  up  the  extra 
30-1,  and  produces  loops  in  an  ir- 
1  egular  fashion,  where  the  extra  yarn 
slips  away  from  the  ground  yarn,  and 
these  loops  are  bound  down  firmly 
by  the  second  twisting  process.  It  is 
sometimes  the  case  that  the  extra 
\aru  in  the  first  twisting  process  is 
delivered  at  one  certain  point  on  the 
ground  yarn,  thus  creating  a  nub  or 
lunch.  This  sort  of  yarn  may  or  may 
not  be  retwisted,  the  method  depend- 
ing a  good  deal  on  the  amount  of 
twist  imparted,  and  somewhat  upon 
the  use  which  is  to  be  made  of  the 
product.  Recently,  we  have  noted 
yarns  which  were  made  in  a  method 
such  as  we  have  previously  described, 
but  which  had  in  addition  a  nub  ef- 
fect used  as  a  binder  for  the  first 
process.  Then  there  is  the  wide  ranje 
of  effects  which  are  made  tlirough 
the  introduction  of  either  v.hite  or 
colored  cotton  stock,  which  yarns 
have  been  continuously  used  in  cer- 
tain classes  of  goods  such  as  cotton 
flannels. 

A  different  amount  of  twist  in  eith- 
er twisting  operation  will  affect  the 
results  and  so  will  a  change  of  yarn 
sizes  or  a  relative  change  in  the  speed 
of  the  delivery  rolls.  In  the  retwist- 
ing  process,  the  binding  yarn  is  de- 
livered about  10  per  cent  faster  than 
the  previously  twisted  yarn,  this  being 
done  so  as  to  produce  the  best  ef- 
fect, although  with  some  yarns,  the 
binder  is  delivered  at  the  same  speed 
as  the  previously  twisted  product. 
YARN  SIZE  AND  COST. 

We  have  given  in  the  fabric  analy- 
sis certain  facts  regarding  the     yarn 


sizes  and  the  cost  of  making.  This 
is  a  feature  which  many  have  not 
considered  in  a  correct  manner,  and 
needless  to  say,  the  results  obtained 
are  often  very  inaccurate.  A  good 
many  have  believed  that  the  cost  of 
making  novelty  yarns  is  very  high, 
and  this  is  true  for  certain  varieties, 
not  only  because  of  their  component 
parts,  but  also  because  of  the  difficul- 
ties caused  by  producing,  but  for  most 
varieties,  the  cost  is  comparatively 
low. 

In  order  to  obtain  anything  like  a 
correct  cost,  when  the  various  yarn 
sizes  are  used,  it  is  necessary  to  ob- 
tain the  yarn  analysis  with  the  per- 
centages of  take-ups,  or  relative  yarn 
sizes.  To  make  the  problem  somewhat 
clearer,  we  have  used  a  relative  single 
yarn  size  where  two  ends  of  any 
yarn  are  used.  With  the  take-ups  in 
twisting,  the  relative  yarn  sizes 
are  as  follows:  25-1  for  the 
ground  yarn;  7.5-1  for  the  loop  yarn, 
and  22.5-1  for  the  re-twist  yarn.  Using 
the  ordinary  method  to  obtain  the  re- 
sulting yarn  size  when  three  differ- 
ent sizes  of  yarns  are  twisted  togeth- 
er, that  is  to  divide  the  highest  yarn 
size  by  itself,  and  the  coarser  sizes 
in  succession,  and  then  to  add  the 
results  obtained.  When  this  is  com- 
pleted, the  highest  yarn  size  is  again 
divided  by  the  result  obtained,  thus 
giving  the  completed  yarn  size. 

In  the  yarn  in  the  fabric  under  dis- 
cussion, the  size  is  approximately 
4.6-1.  Assuming  that  the  cost  of  the 
■single  yarns  in  the  mill  is  known  ac- 
curately, it  is  a  comparatively  easy 
problem  to  obtain  the  cost  for  each 
size  of  yarn  used  in  producing  the 
novelty  yarn  results.  Inasmuch  as 
the  novelty  yarn,  when  completed, 
contains  3,864  yards  per  pound,  this 
number  of  yards  divided  by  the  yards 
per  pound  in  each  yarn,  and  multi- 
plied by  the  cost,  will  give  the  cor- 
rect result.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that 
the  various  yarns  used  in  making  the 
novelty  yarn  cost  26.84  cents  per 
pound.  To  this  amount  there  must  be 
added  the  various  labor,  expense  and 
other  items  for  the  two  twisting  op- 
erations. In  some  cases,  the  labo" 
cost  is  high,  because  a  good  deal  of 
experimentation  has  to  be  made  hec- 
tare satisfactory  results  are  produced. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


There  has  been  a  general  tendency  to 
place  too  high  a  cost  on  the  making 
of  such  yarns,  mainly  because  few 
took  the  trouble  to  investigate  the 
various  items  which  affect  the  cost, 
and  high  prices  offered  a  protection 
against  manufacturing  losses.  It 
must  be  remembered  that  the  produc- 
tion on  the  twisters  after  the  correct 
yarn  effect  is  produced  is  quite 
large,  due  to  the  coarse  yarn  sizes. 
One  item  of  importance  when  making 
novelty  yarns,  and  one  which  is  often 
neglected  is  that  there  should  be  a 
sufficient  amount  of  strength  to  make 
the   yarn   usable.    Most   of   the    strain 


the  number  of  threads  and  picks  per 
inch  being  very  low,  and  the  fabric 
will  slip  easily.  In  making  such  a 
construction,  the  filling  yarn  usually 
contains  much  more  twist  per  inch 
than  would  ordinarily  be  the  case. 
The  hard  twist  in  the  yarn  will  make 
the  cloth  shrink  up,  when  it  is  fin- 
ished, thus  giving  the  irregular  or 
crepe  effect.  In  this  cloth,  even  the 
warp  yarn  has  a  somewhat  greater 
twist  thccH  usual,  and  the  cloth 
shrinks  in  length  as  well  as  in  width, 
although  this  is  not  a  customary  meth- 
od in  domestic  mills.  The  usual 
standard    of   twist   for    filling   yarn   is 


f^^'^^^FEijfietj'^pi^^^i^^^^^s^i^^^^^^ 


m 


The    Novelty    Crepe    Analyzed. 


is  noted  on  the  ground  yarns,  and 
because  the  twisted  yarn  is  so  coarse 
in  size,  there  is  a  tendency  to  expect 
it  to  stand  a  great  deal  of  rough  han- 
dling. This  is  not  always  possible,  and 
many  yarns  have  been  produced  in 
which  the  ground  yarn  would  break 
and  allow  the  novelty  effect  to  dis- 
appear, making  bad  places  in  the 
cloth.  Good  yarn  construction  per- 
mits a  greater  production  during  the 
twisting  process,  and  creates  much 
less  trouble  in  the  weave  room  with 
a  higher  percentage  of  production  and 
a  smaller  number  of  seconds. 

In  addition  to  having  stripes  made 
of  novelty  yarns,  the  fabric  analyzed 
is   woven   with   a   crepe   construction, 


about  three  and  three-quarters  times 
the  square  root  of  the  yarn  size  in 
turns  per  inch,  although  the  amount 
is  reduced  to  three  or  less,  when  mer- 
cerization  is  to  take  place,  but  for 
most  hard  twist  filling,  the  standard 
is  from  seven  to  eight  and  one-half 
times  the  square  root  of  the  size  in 
turns  per  inch,  with  probably  seven 
and  one-half  used  in  the  majority  of 
instances. 

Of  course,  there  have  been  in- 
stances where  a  greater  number  of 
turns  per  inch  than  that  indicated 
have  been  inserted,  and  In  some  cases 
fewer  turns  have  been  used.  What 
this  means  for  a  yarn  like  that  used 
in  the  cloth  is  shown  as  followg:  The 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


dS 


Square  root  of  50-1  is  7.07,  and  with 
a  standard  of  7^  used,  the  turns  per 
inch  would  be  practically  53.  Ordinary 
50-1  yarn,  with  a  standard  of  4i,  con- 
tains only  about  32  turns  per  inch,  so 
that  it  will  be  readily  recognized  that 
the  production  per  spindle  is  much 
less  than  it  is  for  ordinary  warp, 
with  an  increase  in  the  various  costs 
of  producing.  Many  crepes  are  pro- 
duced with  filling  twisted  in  one  di- 
rection only,  but  the  majority  of  the 
high  class  articles  contain  both  regu- 
lar and  reverse  twisted  yarn. 

In  some  fabrics  one  pick  of  one 
twist  and  then  another  pick  of  the 
reverse  twast  is  inserted,  while  in 
others  two  picks  of  each  are  used  in 
succession.  The  pulling  of  one  twist 
against  the  other  when  the  cloth  is 
finished  produces  a  regular  crepy  ef- 
fect, while  if  one  twist  only  be  used 
the  pulling  is  all  in  one  direction  and 
this  produces  a  wavy  effect,  which 
does  not  look  at  all  like  the  fabrics 
produced  with  two  kinds  of  twist. 

Naturally,  to  weave  two  twists  of 
yarn  a  box  loom  is  needed,  and  when 
only  one  pick  of  each  twist  is  used 
a  pick  and  pick  loom  is  necessary. 
To  allow^  sufficient  time  for  the  shut- 
tles to  be  changed,  the  loom  speed  Is 
somewhat  slower  than  would  other- 
wise be  the  case,  possibly  about  10 
per  cent  slower  being  the  rate  on 
comparatively  narrow   goods. 

Fabrics  such  as  we  have  analyzed 
are  likely  to  sell  at  very  high  retail 
prices  not  only  because  they  are  styl- 
ish, but  also  because  the  orders  re- 
ceived are  comparatively  small  and 
an  exclusive  price  can  be  obtained. 
The  general  practice  is  to  obtain  the 
best  price  possible  from  buyers,  and 
this  policy  results  in  high  prices  and 
profits  when  the  demand  is  good.  A 
comparatively  small  profit  per  yard 
will  allow  a  good  return  to  the  mill, 
inasmuch  as  the  production  of  the 
loom  is  comparatively  large,  due  to 
the  small  number  of  picks  per  inch. 
Although  many  of  these  grey  cloths 
cost  comparatively  little  to  produce, 
there  are  other  features  which  make 
the  cost  to  a  converter  a  good  deal 
higher.  One  of  these  is  the  cost  of 
finishing  and  another  is  the  fact  that 
there  is  a  shrinkage  in  the  length 
of  the  cloth  delivered  Instead  of  the 


stretch  noted  in  a  good  many  kinds 
of  cloth.  This  shrinkage  is  not  noted 
on  many  cloths  but  is  evident  on  the 
one  considered. 

Then  it  is  a  fact  that  selling  ex- 
penses are  high  through  the  cost  of 
samples  and  the  proportion  which  they 
form  on  the  comparatively  small 
orders.  Often  a  large  risk  is 
taken  when  novelties  are  purchased, 
for  should  the  style  change  the  losses 
would  be  quite  large.  On  the  fabric 
analyzed  it  is  undoubtedly  true  that 
a  portion  of  the  price  is  represented 
through  duties  which  are  necessary 
because  of  importation.  There  is,  how- 
ever, no  real  reason  why  many  domes- 
tic mills  could  not  produce  this  iden- 
tical fabric  so  as  to  sell  at  retail  at 
less  than  50  cents  per  yard  instead 
of  the  90  cents  per  yard  which  is 
now  noted,  in  fact  they  do  sell  many 
cloths  which  cost  them  far  more  to 
produce  finished  at  prices  which  per- 
mit them  to  be  retailed  at  less  than 
50  cents  per  yard. 

The  number  of  parties  that  handle 
the  goods  have  a  good  deal 
to  do  with  the  prices  which 
are  noted,  although  the  atti- 
tude which  some  sellers  •  take 
in  the  distribution  has  an  influence 
on  the  matter.  Certain  fancy  cotton 
goods  when  sold  to  consumers  are 
handled  by  three  different  people 
while  other  styles  are  handled  by  as 
many  as  five  or  six  distributors 
with  a  corresponding  increase  in  price, 
which  often  is  not  at  all  justifiable 
or  necessary.  We  have  seen  identical 
fabrics  selling  at  50  cents  and  also 
at  75  cents  per  yard  in  different  re- 
tail establishments,  and  it  is  often 
possible  to  see  on  the  same  counter 
fabrics  selling  at  different  prices, 
the  low  priced  fabrics  actually  costing 
more  to  produce  and  containing  more 
style  than  the  high  priced  articles. 
This  is  not  wholly  caused  by  the  ig- 
norance of  retailers  on  the  subject 
of  value,  but  is  often  brought  about  by 
excessive  prices  on  the  part  of  pre- 
vious sellers  and  in  some  cases  be- 
cause of  wrong  estimates  as  to  the 
cost  of  production.  In  a  general  way 
most  of  the  fabrics  are  either  sold 
in  the  white  state  or  are  piece  dyed. 
Of  course,  when  colored  yarns  are 
used  in  making  the  novelty  yarn,  it  is 


94 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   G1.0SSARY 


not  necessary  to  bleach  or  dye  the 
cloth  and  the  effects  are  possibly  more 
varied.  The  method  of  obtaining  the 
yarn  weights  and  yards  per  pound  are 
no  different  than  for  an  ordinary  fab- 
ric. Some  times  when  no  details  re- 
garding the  novelty  y^^rn  making  are 
necessary,  the  novelty  yarn  is  sized 
just  the  same  as  if  it  were  a  simple 
yarn  and  the  result  used  in  obtaining 
the  weights,  it  is   a 

VERY  GOOD  PRACTICE 
to  obtain  the  size  of  the  novelty  yarn 
by  weighing  in  order  to  check  up 
accurately  the  figured  size,  such  as 
we  have  obtained  The  take-ups  on 
the  fine  yarn?  composing  tha  crepe 
portion  of  the  cloth  are  comparatively 
small  and  that  of  the  novelty  yarns 
practically  negligible,  excepting  that 
there  is  a  loss  in  the  preceding 
operations.  A  portion  of  the  take-up 
noted  on  the  yarn  is  developed  when 
the  cloth  is  finished,  but  we  have 
not   considered    such    shrinkage,    inas- 


much as  it  does  not  affect  the  cost 
of  the  cloth  in  the  grey  state.  When 
the  converter  has  the  cloth  finished 
he  can  regulate  his  expenses  per  yard 
by  the  number  of  yards  which  he 
receives,  so  that  there  is  no  necessity 
for  using  such  items  in  obtaining  the 
mill  cost.  The  method  of  obtaining 
the  various  weights  is  as  follows, 
the  novelty  yarn  being  considered  as 
a  single  yarn,  although  it  contains  six 
strands  of  single  yarn: 

1.762  ends  h-  (50/1  X  840)  =  .0420,  weight 
of    50/1    warp    without    take-up 

6%   take-up  in  weaving. 

.0420  -V-  .94  =  .0447,  total  weight  of  50/1 
warp    per    yard    of    woven   cloth. 

343  ends  -;-  (46/1  X  840)  =  .0887,  weight 
of    novelty    warp    without    take-up. 

2  7c    take-up,    or    loss. 

.Ob&7    -J-   .'Ji,   =  .0905.   total  weight  of  novelty 

Wiirp  per  yard  of  woven   cloth. 

48  picks  per  inch  X  50"  reed  width  X  36" 

36" 

2.400   vards   of    filling  per   yard   of   cloth. 
2.400    -h     (50/1     X     840)     =    .0571,    weight    of 

50/1    filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
.0447    +    .0905    +    .0571   =   .1923. 
1.0000     -=-     .1923     =     5.20     yards     per     pound 

(grey). 


NOVELTY  YARN   STRIPE   CREPE. 

PATTERN. 

2  2 

50/1    Am.    combed    warp      —     16     18     —     =   1,762 

24  24 

4.60   novelty   warp  7  =       343 


2,105  total  ends 
grey   width. 


49  X 
GO/1   Am.  conibeil    filling,   hard   twist,    48   picks. 
1:4   reed.    50"   reed    width,   42"   finished   width,    4' 
Finished   count.    50    X    50. 

VAU.NS. 

Cotton. 
oO/l   Am.   combed   warp;   1     5-16"  staple,    10  hank   dou.    rov.,      21c. 
30/1    Am.    carded    warp;    l%o"    staple,    tj    hank    dou.    rov..  131^0. 

50/1   Am.   combed   filling,   H.  T. ;  1%"   !^ta..    12   hank   dou.    rov.,    ISMsc. 


Labor, 
waste,  etc. 

le^iC.        =   37^40. 

6"^c.        =    20c. 
24  %c.        =    44c. 


2   ends   50/1   ground     threads 
2   ends   30/1   loose     \  arn 
2   ends   50/1   retwist 


.NOVELTY    YARN. 
=    25/1   comparative  size. 
=    15/1   comparative  size. 
=    25/1   comparative  size. 


25/1    -f-    25/1    =    1.0000 
(15/1    +    ^o%    take-up   =   7.5/1) 

25/1   -^    7.5/1    =    3.3333 
(25/)    +    10%    take-up   =  22.5/1) 

25/1    -^    22.5/1    =    1.1111 


5.4444 
25/1    —    0.4444    =    4.60   novelty   yarn    figured   size 
Yards  per  pound  in   novelty  yarn,   3.864. 
3,864    X    37%c. 


( approximately). 


25/1  X  840 
3.864      X      20c. 

7.5/1  X  840 
3,864    X    37%c. 

22.5/1  X  840 


=       .0690 


1.2684 


$.2684.    total    cost   of   yarns   used    for   making   1   lb.    of   novelty  yarn. 
8c.    (2    twisting  operations)    =    34 %c.,    total   cost  of   novelty   yarn  per   pound. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


96 


CLOTH   COST. 

1,762   ends   50/1    Am.    combed    warp    +    6%    take-up    =   .0447    @    37i^c.    =    $  .0168 

343   ends   4.60    novelty    +    2%    take-up    =   .OU05    10    34  %c.    =        .0316 

48   picks   50/1    Am.    conabed   fi'ling   hard   twist    '. ^   .0571    (q)    44c.        =        .0252 

Weaving     0283 

Expenses    0123 

$  .1142 
Selling    (grey)     0023 

Net  mill  cost   (grey) $  .1166 

Finishing  charges,  about  4c.   per  yard 
li-etall  price,   aoc.   per  yard. 
Yards  per  pound,    5.20    (grey). 


FANCY  PILE  FABRICS 

Probably  the  one  fabric  which  has 
created  the  greatest  amount  of  inter- 
est among  buyers  of  cotton  goods  is 
the  fabric  which  is  variously  known 
as  toweling,  eponge,  ratine  and  other 
names  which  designate  the  same  fab- 
ric. To  anyone  acquainted  with 
manufacturing,  the  above-mentioned 
names  mean  a  special  cloth,  although 
retailers  and  others  have  not  been  ac- 
customed to  •distinguish  between 
tnem. 

An  eponge,  as  the  term  is  general- 
ly understood,  is  not  the  same  fabric 
as  a  toweling  or  terry  cloth,  and  a 
ratine  is  different  from  either.  One 
of  these  fabrics  is  made  by  a  finish- 
ing process,  another  is  macje  through 
ine  use  or  novelty  yarns,  while  the 
other  is  made  by  a  loom  mechanism. 
All  of  these  fabrics  have  been  used 
for  a  wide  variety  of  purposes,  such 
as  dresses,  trimmings,  hats,  vests  and 
other  purposes,  and  inasmuch  as  they 
have  sold  largely,  and  are  somewhat 
different  in  construction  than  fabrics 
formerly  produced,  it  may  be  well  to 
consider  two  fabrics  which  are  made 
with  ordinary  yarns,  but  which  are 
manufactured  by  a  loom  mechanism 
rather  than  through  any  other  proc- 
ess. 

TOWELING    OR   TERRY   CLOTH. 

These  fabrics  may  be  called  towel- 
ing raurics  or  terry  clotns.  Many  of 
the  ideas  which  have  been  developed 
for  sale  at  present  have  been  concoct- 
ed from  ordinary  toweling  construc- 
tions, and  inasmuch  as  they  are  spe- 
cial  fabrics   and   because    they    have 


been  stylish  it  has  been  possible  for 
manufacturers  and  sellers  to  be  par- 
ticularly successful  in  their  making. 

We  have  at  intervals  presented  a 
number  of  analyses  of  fabrics  which 
would  be  included  under  this  gener- 
al heading  giving  the  sizes  of  yarns 
and  the  methods  of  production,  to- 
gether with  the  selling  prices  and 
probable  profit.  When  many  of  these 
cloths  were  first  produced  they  were 
not  very  satisfactory,  but  inasmuch 
as  any  special  ideas  are  developed 
gradually  and  are  not  produced  when 
tne  notion  is  first  in  demand,  the 
same  condition  is  noted  in  the  pro- 
duction of  fabrics  such  as  that  con- 
sidered. It  might  be  said  that  there 
are  two  definite  methods  of  producing 
terry  cloths,  one  in  which  there  are 
two  warps  used  and  in  which  the 
weave  together  with  the  loom  mech- 
anism allows  a  certain  amount  of  ex- 
tra yarn  to  be  forced  into  the  cloth, 
thereby  producing  a  rough  appear- 
ance on  either  or  on  both  sides  of  the 
cloth. 

These  terry  cloths  are  produced  by 
different  methods  on  the  loom,  but 
the  general  result,  so  far  as  the  cloth 
is  concerned,  is  practically  the  same. 
The  second  method  is  one  in  which  a 
different  mechanism  is  used,  and  in 
which  wires  are  inserted  to  make  the 
loops  as  the  cloth  is  being  woven 
Certain  styles  of  fabric  which  are 
.  impossible  of  production  by  the  first 
or  terry  motion  are  easily  produce(3 
tnrougn  tne  secona  metnod,  although 
of  course,  there  are  sometimes  very 
good  imitations  of  the  second  kind  ot 
cloths  made.  The  wires  which  are 
used  are  Inserted  and  withdrawn  as 
the  cloth  is  being  woven,  and  because 


»6 


A  OOTION  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  such  facts  the  loom  speed  Is  low, 
and  the  cloth  production  is  not  so 
high  as  the  number  of  picks  which  the 
loom  makes  would  indicate. 

Various  dohby  and  jacquard  pat- 
terns are  produced  by  both  methods. 
The  limitations  forced  by  the  first 
method  of  manufacturing  are  ones 
which  arise  from  the  fact  that  all  of 
the  loop  threads  are  placed  on  one 
or  at  least  only  a  few  beams,  there- 
fore allowing  only  one  or  two  differ- 
ent effects  to  be  produced,  while 
through  the  second  method  there  may 
be  a  different  take-up  on  the  various 
threads  forming  the  loops   much   the 


the  design,  because  the  loop  threads 
are  down  or  on  the  back  of  the  cloth 
both  before  and  after  the  wire  is  in- 
serted. 

In  the  first  fabric  considered  the 
result  produced  is  quite  novel,  al- 
though it  is  entirely  probable  that  the 
sale  of  both  of  these  materials  con- 
sidered is  rather  limited.  It  will  be 
seen  that  the  loops  are  not  placed  in 
a  regular  manner,  as  is  noted  on  the 
stripe  cloth,  but  that  they  are  placed 
at  intervals  with  quite  a  little  of  the 
ground  cloth  showing.  The  method 
of  placing  the  loops  on  the  cloth,  or 
weave,  if  it  might  be  called  such,  is  a 


V^.The   Novelty    Toweling    Fabric    Ajialyzed. 


same  as  there  is  on  certain  styles  of 
carpets. 

We  are  presenting  two  styles  of 
fabric  which  are  manufactured  by  the 
second  method,  namely  through  the 
use  of  wires.  An  examination  of  the 
weave  of  one  of  the  cloths  will  indi- 
cate quite  clearly  how  the  use  of 
wires  is  distinguished.  Taking  the 
loop  threads  which  are  marked  at  the 
top  of  the  weave  with  black  places  it 
will  be  noted  that  where  the  wires 
are  inserted  (the  places  at  the  right 
where  black  marks  are  made  indicat- 
ing such  Insertion)  it  will  be  seen 
that  unless  a  wire  was  inserted  to 
hold  up  the  loop  it  would  weave  no 
differently  than  in  the  other  places  of 


four-harness  one,  with  the  loop  yarn 
having  four  different  positions  anu 
being  raised  for  one  wire  pick  and 
then  depressed  for  the  three  follow- 
ing similar  picks. 

The  weave  is  the  one  which  many 
have  been  accustomed  to  call  a  four- 
harness  satin,  although,  strictly 
speaking,  there  Is  no  such  weave  as 
a  four-harness  satin.  The  warp 
threads  which  form  the  ground  cloth 
all  weave  plain,  as  may  be 
noted  by  examining  threads  number 
one,  two,  three,  six,  seven,  eight,  etc. 
The  places  where  such  threads  do 
not  appear  to  weave  plain  on  the  de- 
sign as  laid  out  are  caused  by  the  In- 
sertion of  the  wires  which  form  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


97 


loops  and  have  nothing  at  all  to  do 
with  the  weave  of  the  ground  threads. 
It  will  also  be  noted  that  there  is 
no  break  in  the  plain  weave  on  the 
ground  threads  from  one  loop  to  the 
next  loop  in  the  warp  direction. 

It  may  be  well  to  mention  the  fact 
that  many  of  these  novelty  toweling 
fabrics  are  made  with  a  much  better 
construction  than  they  were  when 
the  demand  first  began  to  be  noted 
for  such  styles.  Many  of  the  cloths 
produced  at  that  time  had  a  compara- 
tively loose  construction  and  were 
hardly  suitable  for  dress  materials  al- 
though many  of  them  were  used  for 
such  purposes.    Gradually  as  the  need 


tails  regarding  the  yarns  and  their 
making  is  what  would  be  noted  in  the 
domestic  market  and  in  a  good  sized. 
well-managed  plant. 

The  cost  of  the  cloth  will  depend  a 
good  deal  upon  various  circumstances. 
This  material  was  undoubtedly  im- 
ported, and  under  such  circumstances 
the  yarns  were  probably  made  in  one 
plant  and  the  cloth  woven  in  another, 
and  to  the  costs  of  the  yam,  as  not- 
ed, there  would  have  to  be  added  a 
certain  amount  of  yarn  profit,  depend- 
ing upon  general  market  conditions. 
It  is,  however,  likely  that  the  costs 
named  represent  very  closely  the 
selling  prices  which  would  have  been 


{ 


Black   and    White    Striped    Novelty    Made    of  Single  YarnS. 


became  more  recognized  the  construc- 
tion of  such  fabrics  was  adapte-d  so 
as  to  be  more  nearly  what  they  are 
to-day  and  more  satisfactory  and 
with  a  greater  amount  of  serviceabil- 
ity. 

We  have  given  an  analysis  of  this 
previously  described  cloth  with  an  ap- 
proximate cost  of  production.  One  of 
the  facts  regarding  this  fabric  and 
one  which  should  be  responsible  for  a 
great  deal  of  service  in  comparison 
with  many  of  such  lines  is  that  the 
yarns  used  in  its  making  are  all  two- 
ply.  It  may  be  possible  that  instead 
of  a  30-reed  as  we  have  used  a  15- 
reed  was  used  with  twice  as  many 
threads   per   dent.     The    various    de- 


noted were  such  yarns  purchased  in 
foreign  countries.  There  are  compar- 
atively  few  fabrics  of  this  nature  pro- 
duced in  the  domestic  market,  and, 
due  to  the  difficulties  of  manufactur- 
ing, the  costs  of  weaving  and  ex- 
penses per  yard  are  much  higher  than 
they  are  on  a  great  many  other  vari- 
eties of  all-cotton  cloth. 

This  fabric  can  be  made  in  the 
grey  state  and  then  dyed  in  the  piece 
after  it  is  woven.  We  have  not  at- 
tempted to  give  the  various  items  of 
cost  after  the  grey  cloth  was  woven, 
but  it  undoubtedly  was  handled  by  a 
number  of  various  sellers,  and  a  por- 
tion of  the  price  is  represented  by 
the   duties   which  are  assessed.     One 


98 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


thing  which  limits  the  use  of  many 
of  these  fabrics  is  the  fact  that  they 
are  so  much  heavier  than  consumers 
have  been  accustomed  to  use  for  sum- 
mer wear,  thus  limiting  the  season  in 
which  they  can  be  satisfactorily  worn. 
There  have  been,  however,  many 
more  of  such  goods  sold  than  ever  be- 
fore, and  the  development  of  the  idea 
has  been  responsible  for  many  strik- 
ing novelties,  and,  without  doubt, 
some  of  these  cloths  will  be  sold  con- 
tinually as  dress  goods. 

Possibly,  the  fabric  which  Is  of 
greatest  interest,  although  it  is  not 
nearly  as  complicated  in  weave,  is 
the  black  and  white  striped  material. 
This  fabric  is  made  from  dyed  and 
bleached  yarns,  and  probably  costs 
more  to  produce  than  the 
one  for  which  the  cost  has  been  giv- 
en. There  have  been  used  in  this  fab- 
ric certain  methods  which  are  re- 
sponsible for  certain  effects,  and  the 
results  are  ones  not  often  noted. 
Naturally,  the  method  of  dressing  the 
warp  is  responsible  for  the  produc- 
tion of  the  stripes  in  the  cloth.  The 
warp  in  this  fabric  is  dressed  much 
the  same  as  it  is  in  the  fabric  previ- 
ously described,  excepting  for  the  in- 
troduction of  color,  that  is,  there  are 
three  ground  threads  and  then  two 
threads  of  loop  yarn  drawn  in  regu- 
larly throughout  the  whole  fabric. 

It  may  be  well  to  note,  however, 
that  this  cloth  is  made  from  single 
instead  of  two-ply  yams,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  loop  yarn  which  is  two- 
ply  in  a  large  majority  of  such  fab- 
rics. One  feature  which  is  of  inter- 
est in  this  cloth  is  the  looseness  of 
the  twist  in  the  yarn  which  forms  the 
loop.  Many  fabrics  of  this  character 
have  loosely  twisted  loop  yarns,  but 
there  are  very  few  of  them  which 
have  the  same  result  that  is  noted 
in  the  fabric  under  discussion. 

A  careful  examination  of  the  black 
yarn  will  show  that  it  has  been  mer- 
cerized and  then  dyed,  but  that  the 
dyestuff  or  the  dyeing  process  which 
has  been  used  does  not  penetrate  to 
the  centre  of  this  two-ply  mercerizeo 
yarn.  "When  +he  fabric  is  examined 
there  is  a  certain  peculiar  effect  not- 
ed from  the  fact  that  the  yam  is  not 
thoroughly    dyed,  making  a    contrast 


with  the  black  dyed  fibres,  ensuring 
an  appearance  of  much  more  luster 
than  actually  exists. 

This  result  occurs  because  the  mer- 
cerized yarn  bends  sharply  when  it 
forms  the  loops,  opening  up  the  twist 
and  showing  the  white  fibres  at  the 
top  of  the  loop.  Possibly,  this  result 
was  not  intentional,  but  neverth.^l-jss, 
the  effect  which  it  produces  is  se.dom 
noted  and  is  worthy  of  mention.  If 
it  was  intended  to  produce  this  le 
suit,  a  great  amount  of  ingenuity  hat- 
been  used  in  developing  it.  Few  would 
consider  that  the  result  noted  would 
be  produced  through  the  dyeing  of 
the  yarn,  but  this  appears  to  be  the 
case. 


■  :i:i:i:r:i:::i:Ei::::: 


Weavl.ng    Diagram. 

We  have  given  for  this  black  and 
white  fabric  the  analysis  with  the 
weights  of  the  various  yarns  which 
are  used  in  its  production. 

In  an  anaylsis  of  a  fabric  such  as 
that  described,  the  item  of  importance 
is  the  take-up  on  the  warp  yams.  It 
will  be  noted  in  the  fabric  for  which 
the  cost  has  been  given  that  the  take- 
up  was  46  per  cent,  or,  in  other  words, 
it  took  about  two  yards  of  loop  yam 
to  weave  one  yard  of  cloth.  On  the 
striped  fabric  the  take-up  is  quite  a 
little  greater,  because  of  the  fact  that 
the  loop  is  made  continuously,  while 
in  the  first  fabric  it  was  not.  In  this 
cloth  the  take-up  was  69  per  cent, 
thus  making  ten  yards  of  yam  neces- 
sary in  weaving  approximately  three 
yards  of  cloth.     It  will  also  be  noted 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY  99 

that    the    take-up    on    the    fine    warp         The  weave  in  the  striped  fabric  on 

used   for   the   ground  cloth    is    some-  the  loop  yam  is  one  up  and  two  down, 

what  greater  than   it  would  be  were  although   this  does  not  appear  to  be 

an       ordinary         fabric        produced.  the  case  until  the  threads  are  pulled 

This  is   noted   because  of  the   use  of  out  and   it  is  considered  that  a  wire 

the    heavy    yarn    for   loops     and     the  had  been  woven  in  the  cloth  and  then 

weave  which  the  cloth  contains.  The  withdrawn.     These    fabrics   are    very 

yarns   which   are  used    in    producing  interesting,   inasmuch    as   they   repre- 

such  fabrics  are  not  any  different  than  sent  the  development  of  an  idea  for 

those   used    in    making    ordinary   fab-  dress  fabrics  which  was  formerly  con- 

rics,  for  they  are  regularly  made,  al-  sidered     rather     undesirable.       That 

though   the  two-ply  yarn  used  in  the  there   should   be  variations  in   weave 

loops   is  usually  soft  or  comparative-  and   an   improvement  in   construction 

ly  soft  twisted.  Both  of  these  cloths  is  only  natural,  and  the  fabrics  which 

sell   at  retail   for    $2    per   yard,   and  we  present  include  both  ideas, 
quite  a  little  has  been  sold. 

FANCY   PILE   FABRICS— BLUE  CLOTH. 
PATTERN. 
2  2 

80/2  Am.  combed  warp     —     8  —     =     2,244 

a  48 

20/2   Am.   carded   warp  2  =      1.378 

684  X  3,622   total   ends. 

6u/2   Am.   combed  filling;  52  picks   (not  including  wires). 
30  reed;   4  7"  width  in  reed;  42%"  width   finished. 
85    X    &2  over  all  count  finished. 

TARNS. 
V                                                   Labor, 
*                                                   waste,  Twist- 
Cotton,        etc.  ing. 
80/2  Am.  combed  warp;  1  7-16"  sta;  16  hank  dou.   rov.,  25c.          28i^c.  5%c.   =   59c. 
20/2  Am.  carded  warp;   l%o"  sta;   4  hank  dou.  rov.,  ISi^c.        4%c.  %c.    =   18%c. 
60/2   Am.    combed  filling;    1   5-16"   sta;    12    hank  dou.    rov.,  21c.          19V4c.  3%c.    =   43%c. 

COST. 

2,244   ends  80/2   Am.   combed  warp   -|-    11%    take-up =.0751    @    59c.  =   $   .0443 

1.378   ends  20/2   Am.    combed   warp   -f    46%   take-up =.3037    @    lS%c.      =        .0573 

5Z  picks  60/2   Am.   combed  filling =.0970    @    43%c.      =        .0425 

Weaving     0597 

Expenses    0324 

$   .2362 
Selling    (grey)    0075 

Mill    cost    (grey) $.2437 

Yards  per  pound  2.1«   {9t»y). 
Cost  at  retail  $2  per  yard. 

STRIPED  CLOTH. 
PATTERN. 

2  2 

35/1   Am.  c%rded  white  —     3        3        3        3        3     —     =      2.151 

24  24 

24/2   Am.   c/mbed   mercerized  black           2      2  2      2  =         688 

24/2   Am.    combed   white  2       2  =         684 

171X  3,523 

30/1  Am.   caraed  white;   44  picks. 

2,151  ends  -i-   (840 X   85/1)   =  .0732,  white  single  warp  weight  without  take-up. 

12%   take-up  in  weaving. 
.0732   -f-   .88  =  .0832,   total   weight  of  white  single  warp  per  yard   of  cloth. 
1,372  ends  -t-    (840    X    24/2)   =  .1861,  weight  of  two-ply  warp  without  take-up. 

69%    take-up   in   weaving. 
.1361    -^   .31   =   .4390,  total   weight  of  ply   warp  per  yard   of  cloth. 

44  picks  X   45V4"  reed  width   X    36" 

. — ■ =    2,002   yards   of   filling   per   yard   of   cloth. 

36" 
2,002  -t-   (840   X   80/1)    =  .0794,  total  weight  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
.0832    +   .4390    -|-    .0794   —   .6018,    total   weight   per  yard. 
1. 0000  -H   .6016   =  1.66  yards  per   pound. 


100 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


BUYERS'  COST  KEY 

Some  time  ago  we  presented  a 
method  whereby  the  cost  of  grey 
cloths  could  be  accurately  obtained 
by  a  buyer,  although  the  various 
ideas  which  were  employed  were  also 
of  value  to  a  manufacturer  in  that 
many  of  such  do  not  observe  any 
great  accuracy  in  the  systems  which 
they  employ,  and  the  results  obtaineo 
are  sometimes  not  founded  upon  the 
basic  facts  of  cloth  construction.  Foi 
various  reasons  the  method  adopted 
was  not  the  one  which  would  be 
most  desirable  from  a  manufacturer's 
standpoint,  although  probably  the 
main  reason  why  such  systems  would 
not  be  identical  is  the  lack  of  tech- 
nical  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the 
buyer.  Usually  a  purchaser  can  ob- 
tain the  number  of  threads  and  pickb 
per  inch   in  any  cloth   very   easily. 

It  is  also  possible  for  him  to  ob- 
tain the  weight  per  yard  and  the 
width  of  the  cloth.  Of  course,  buy- 
ers often  have  more  information  than 
the  above  regarding  the  cloths  which 
they  are  handling,  but  there  should 
be  no  great  difficulty  for  any  one  of 
them  to  obtain  these  details  at  least. 
As  stated  when  we  presented  our  grey 
cloth  cost  method,  the  fundamental 
facts  were  first,  that  there 
are     840     yards     per     pound    to    No. 

1  yarn,  1,680  yards  per  pound  to  No. 

2  yarn,  or  40  times  840  yards  or  33,- 
600  yards  per  pound  in  No.  40  yarn, 
and  second,  that  in  a  pound  as  used 
for  weighing  cotton  yarn  there  are 
16  ounces  or  7,000  grains. 

PROBLEM    NOT    DIFFICULT. 

To  anyone  who  is  familiar  with 
cloth  analysis  the  problem  is  not  at 
all  difficult,  inasmuch  as  the  weights 
of  the  various  yarns  used  can  be  ob- 
tained, but  for  a  buyer  the  simplest 
method  is  that  wherein  the  average 
yarn  size  is  obtained  for  the  cloth  as 
it  is  sold.  So  far  as  this  portion  of 
the  method  is  concerned,  it  is  identi- 
cal with  that  employed  when  grey 
cloths  are  being  treated.  An  illus 
tration  may,  however,  be  of  service 
in  making  the  various  details  evident. 
A  certain   colored   fabric   contains   86 


threads  and  81  picks  per  inch.  It  is 
314  inches  wide  and  weighs  7.70 
yards  per  pound.  The  number  ol 
threads  and  picks  per  inch  added  to- 
gether and  then  multiplied  by  the 
cloth  width  will  produce  the  num- 
ber of  yards  of  yarn  used  in  making 
one  yard  of  cloth  without  considering 
the  amount  of  take-up.  This  result 
multiplied  by  the  number  of  yards 
per  pound  will  furnish  the  number  of 
yards  of  yarn  per  pound,  and  through 
the  addition  of  the  take-up  the  to- 
tal yards  per  pound  can  be  obtained. 
When  any  number  of  yards  of  cot- 
ton yarn  weigh  one  pound  the  size 
can  be  secured  by  dividing  the  num- 
ber of  yards  by  the  recognized  stand 
ard  for  No.  1  yarn.  The  details  for 
the  cloth  given  are  as  follows: 

S6   threads   +    SI   picks  =    167,   total   threads 

per   Inch. 
1C7     X    3114    cloth    width    =    5,219    yards    of 

yarn  per  yard  of  cloth  without  take-up. 
5,219    X    7.70  yards  per  lb.   =   40,186  yards  of 

yarn  without   take-up. 
Using   10%    take-up   in  weaving,   we   get 
40,186    ^    .90    =    44,652,    total   yards   of   yarn 

per   pound. 
44,652  -i-   840  (standard)   =  53,  average  yarn 

size. 

PICKS    PER    INCH. 

There  should  be  no  great  difficulty 
in  obtaining  the  number  of  threads 
and  picks  per  inch.  For  a  fabric 
which  is  entirely  plain  weave  a  com' 
paratively  simple  count  will  answer 
the  purpose.  For  stripes,  checks,  or 
where  any  other  kind  of  a  pattern  is 
employed,  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to 
count  the  total  number  of  threads 
or  picks  in  a  pattern  repeat  and  the 
space  which  they  occupy  in  the  cloth, 
thereby  obtaining  the  average  num- 
ber per  inch.  The  take-up  on  differ- 
ent fabrics  will  vary  quite  widely, 
due  to  the  cloth  construction,  yarn 
sizes  and  number  of  picks  per  inch, 
but  the  10  per  cent  which  we  have 
used  may  be  considered  a  fair  aver- 
age. Should  more  accurate  re- 
sults be  desired,  it  is  possible 
to  pull  out  a  number  of  threads  and 
picks,  ascertaining  the  amount  which 
they  stretch,  and  thereby  obtaininfe 
more  accurately  the  yards  of  yarn  per 
pound.  For  yam  dyed  fabrics,  how- 
ever, on  an  ordinary  good  construc- 
tion, the  large  majority  of  results 
will  be   satisfactory  when   a   take-up 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


101 


of  10  per  cent  Is  used.  Upon  this 
average  number  is  based  the  cost  of 
the  material  which  enters  into  the 
cloth    as    made. 

This  yarn  cost  for  convenience  has 
been  made  to  cover  all  the  various 
items  which  ordinarily  affect  the  cost 
of  production,  but  it  is  admitted  that 
there  are  many  cases  which  must  be 
treated  in  an  individual  manner  if 
anything  like  accurate  results  are  to 
be  secured.  There  are  a  few  features 
which  tend  to  make  the  cost  of  col- 
ored yam  goods  lower  than  for  grey 
yarn  fabrics,  while  there  are  many 
more  details  which  tend  to  increase 
their  cost,  so  that  in  the  majority  of 
instances  colored  goods  are  relatively 
more  expensive  than  grey  cloths.  Up 
to  the  time  the  yam  is  placed  on 
beams  in  the  grey  state  very  little 
difference  is  noted,  but  additional 
processes  which  are  rather  expensive 
increase  the  cost  of  dyed  yarns,  so 
that  when  they  arrive  at  the  loom 
their  cost  is  appreciably  higher  than 
for    grey   yarns. 

EXTRA    PROCESSES. 

Some  of  the  extra  processes  which 
increase  the  cost  are  ball  warping, 
doubling,  bleaching,  dyeing,  sizing, 
separating,  beaming,  slashing  and 
quilling.  In  many  instances  the  proc- 
esses are  even  more  numerous,  es- 
pecially where  certain  results  are  to 
be  secured.  It  often  happens  that  a 
process  is  used  which,  while  adding 
to  the  previous  cost,  makes  it  pos- 
sible for  large  enough  economies  to 
be  effected  in  the  succeeding  opera- 
tion to  make  its  adoption  worth 
while.  In  addition  to  the  labor  and 
other  expense  items  there  are  certain 
losses  in  yam  which  sometimes  radi- 
cally increase  the  cost  and  which 
are  not  often  noted  when  grey  goods 
are  made.  Some  of  the  facts  which 
are  well  to  bear  in  mind  when  color- 
ed goods  are  being  considered  are 
that,  due  to  excessive  handling,  th«s 
yarn  sizes  are  usually  coarser  than 
are  noted  in  many  grades  of  grey 
material.  It  is  seldom  that  colored 
yams  are  used  much  finer  than  60s-l, 
and  when  finer  yarns  are  handled 
they  are  likely  to  be  ply  rather  than 
single.     It  is  probable  tiiat  the  large 


proportion  of  colored  cloths  are  made 
from  yarns  of  30s-l  or  less  in  size. 
It  is  seldom  that  a  much  finer  warp 
than  filling  is  used,  inasmuch  as  the 
warp  is  handled  extensively,  and  the 
coarser  the  size  the  less  the  cost  of 
handling  is  likely  to  be.  This  is  not 
noted  in  the  making  of  grey  goods, 
for  many  of  the  large  selling  ordi- 
nary fabrics  contain  a  warp  which 
is  much  finer  than  the  filling.  In 
any  case,  there  are  not  the  serious 
objections  to  the  use  of  fine  warp 
which  are  noted  when  colored  goods 
are  being  made.  Filling  for  colored 
fabrics  is  handled  much  more  than 
it  is  for  grey  goods,  and  for  this  rea- 
son a  much  higher  standard  of  twist 
is  employed,  so  as  to  give  sufficient 
strength,  though  this  results  in  a 
harsher  cloth  than  the  same  size  of 
grey  yarns   is  likely  to   produce. 

COLORED    FILLING    YARN. 

Colored  filling  yarn  is  handled  in 
much  the  same  manner  as  warp 
with  the  exception  of  the  beaming 
and  slashing  operations,  where  a 
quilling  process  is  substituted.  Com- 
paratively few  combed  colored  yarns 
are  used,  mainly  because  most  of  the 
yarn  sizes  are  so  low  as  to  make  this 
process  unnecessary.  In  some  in- 
stances combing  is  used  when  fine 
ply  yarns  are  being  made  or  where  a 
special  fabric  is  being  produced,  and 
it  is  sometimes  necessary  when  fast 
or  dark  colors  are  being  used.  The 
fibres  on  a  black  or  dark  dyed  yarn 
are  likely  to  be  very  notice- 
able when  used  alongside  a  bleached 
stripe,  and  inasmuch  as  the  combing 
process  eliminates  a  large  proportion 
of  the  short  cotton  fibres  and  makes 
a  smoother  yarn,  it  is  more  success- 
ful to  use  combed  yarn  in  these  in- 
stances even  if  the  cost  is  higher  and 
combing  unnecessary,  so  far  as  prac- 
tical yarn  making  or  handling  is  con- 
sidered. 

One  item  of  importance,  and  which 
has  much  to  do  with  successful  man- 
ufacturing is  the  correct  balance  be- 
tween the  cotton  staple  used  and  the 
size  of  yarn  produced.  With  many 
grey  yarns  the  cost  of  cotton  is  a 
large  item,  and  while  it  also  is  ol 
much    importance    in     colored     work, 


102 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


the  additional  processes  make  it  of 
less  importance,  that  is,  it  is  often 
possible  to  use  a  better  cotton  and 
save  enough  through  such  use  to 
malce  it  worth  while,  whereas  it> 
would  be  an  undesirable  policy  and 
would  increase  the  cost  on  grey 
goods.  For  the  above  reason,  most 
mills  making  dyed  yarn  fabrics  are 
likely  to  use  a  better  cotton  for  the 
same  size  of  yam  than  grey  cloth 
mills,  this  being  especially  true  when 
numbers  higher  than  30  or  35  are  be- 
ing made,  or  where  quality  is  of  im- 
portance. Many  grey  cloth  mills  are 
so  arranged  that  a  great  variety  of 
yarns,  both  as  to  size  and  quality, 
can  be  produced,  and  the  same  is  true 
regarding  the  kind  of  cloth  produced 
from  these  yarns,  but  mills  making 
dyed  yam  fabrics  use  combinations 
of  color  and  other  similar  features 
to  produce  their  styles,  and  the  yarn 
sizes  and  cloth  constructions  do  not 
change  radically  from  year  to  year, 
neither  is  there  any  great  variety  in 
the    sizes   of   yams   being   produced. 

ECONOMICAL    YARN    MAKING. 

This  offers  an  opportunity  to 
practice  economy  in  yarn  making, 
and  were  such  a  condition  possible 
in  some  of  the  fancy  grey  cloth  mills, 
the  present  cost  of  production  could 
undoubtedly  be  further  reduced. 
Many  yarns  which  are  dyed  have  to 
be  given  a  bleaching  process  previous 
to  the  dyeing  operation,  while  oth- 
ers are  only  partially  bleached,  and 
there  are  quite  a  good  many  on  which 
dark  colors  are  used  that  are  not 
bleached  at  all.  These  varying  con- 
ditions naturally  affect  the  cost,  and 
unless  care  is  exercised  incorrect  re- 
sults  are  very  liable  to  be  obtained. 

Naturally,  the  best  way  is  to  treat 
each  cloth  separately,  but  a 
buyer  is  not  acquainted  at  all  with 
processes  and  cannot  adopt  such  a 
method.  Neither  is  there  any  great  ne- 
cessity for  any  such  accuracy  so  far  as 
he  is  concerned,  inasmuch  as  it  is 
necessary  for  him  to  pay  the  quoted 
prices,  and  an  estimated  cost  may 
be  considered  only  as  a  protection 
against  excessive  profits.  Colored 
goods  are  not  sold  by  the  same  meth- 
od      as       grey     goods,     and     mills 


while  competing  for  business  ara  not 
running  on  identical  constructions, 
and  a  certain  amount  of  leeway  is 
therefore   offered   them. 

Possibly,  the  problem  which  woulQ 
Oe  most  difficult  for  a  buyer  to  solve 
is  the  condition  which  develops  when 
a  portion  of  a  colored  fabric  is  made 
of  white  or  bleached  yarns.  A  cloth 
which  is  made  of  certain  yarn  sizes 
will  not  cost  so  much  when  a  large 
pioportion  is  white  as  it  will  when 
most  of  it  is  coilored.  This  is  because 
the  dyeing  operation  is  a  separate 
process  from  bleaching,  and  there 
are  various  labor  and  expense  items 
which  add  to  the  cost,  and,  in  addi- 
tion, there  are  the  varying  increases 
necessary  through  the  dyestuffs  used. 
The  various  colors  cost  different 
amounts,  depending  on  the  depth  ot 
shade,  the  fastness  to  light,  washing 
or  bleaching,  and  other  general  char- 
acteristics, but  when  the  other  ex- 
penses are  added,  the  variation  in 
cost  for  all  the  processes  is  not  so 
great  as   might  be   expected. 

ORDINARY    COLORS. 

Of  course,  this  refers  to  normal 
yarns  and  ordinary  colors  and  does 
not  have  any  relation  to  some  of  the 
low-grade  results  often  produced, 
neither  does  it  apply  to  special  yarns 
Which  have  to  be  handled  extensive- 
ly with  a  resulting  high  cost.  Natu- 
rally it  does  not  refer  to  stock-dyed 
yarns  on  which  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion is  mucli  lower,  although  the  re- 
sults produced  are  many  times  as 
good  or  better  than  when  yarns  are 
dyed. 

One  fact  which  should  be  mention- 
ed is  that  the  total  cost  of  dyeing 
and  handling  yarns  does  not  increase 
in  the  same  manner  as  does  that  for 
producing  grey  yams.  It  costs  just 
about  twice  as  much  for  the  various 
labor  and  expense  items  on  32s-l 
grey  yarn  as  it  does  for  20s-l  grey 
yam,  but  it  is  not  true  that  the 
costs  of  bleaching  and  dyeing  are 
twice  as  much  for  32s-l  as  they  are 
for  the  same  kind  of  20s-l  dyed 
yarn.  It  does  cost  more  per  pound 
to  dye,  bleach  and  handle  a  fine  than 
it  does  a  coarse  yarn,  but  the  ad- 
vance in   price    does    not    bear    the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


108 


same   relative   proportion   to   the  ad- 
vance on  grey  yarns. 

The  costs  of  the  various  processes, 
when  converting  grey  yarns  into 
bleached  or  dyed  yarns  will  vary 
widely,  due  to  manufacturing  condi- 
tions, that  is,  when  a  small  amount 
of  any  color  is  handled  the  items 
which  go  to  make  up  the  cost  will 
be  high,  but  where  large  quantities 
of  a  comparatively  few  colors  are 
being  made  quite  large  reductions 
will  be  noted.  For  this  reason,  therb 
will  be  a  greater  variation  from  any 
normal  standard  when  dyed  fabrics 
are  being  considered  than  when  oth- 
er varieties  of  cloth  are  being  made, 
and  it  is  less  possible  to  obtain  a 
correct  cost  unless  each  fabric  is 
considered  on  an  entirely  different 
basis,  and,  therefore,  impossible  of 
accomplishment  for  a  buyer.  The 
items  which  are  more  or  less  staple 
do,  however,  make  it  possible  to  ob- 
tain a  general  idea  regarding  the 
costs  of  making.  Realizing  that  there 
are  very  many  cases  where  the 
methods  we  have  used  cannot  apply, 
we  are  presenting  a  table  for  yarns 
containing  the  total  cost  of  the  va 
rious  processes.  This  is  for  carded 
yarns,  inasmuch  as  they  are  more 
frequently   used   than   combed: 

Total    yarn 
Yu-n  size.  Cost  dyed. 

10  22.43 

12 22.92 

14  23.43 

16  23.96 

18  24.49 

20  ...'. 25.02 

22  25.69 

24-  ......... 26.30 

26  29.27 

•28  ...  .  .  .  . 29.96 

30  30.67 

32  .  ; 31.40 

34 32.52 

36  35.07 

38  35.83 

40  36.55 

42  37.32 

44  38.15 

46  41.18 

48  42.02 

50  42.85 

55  44.90 

60  49.08 

SIZE    OF    YARNS. 

Previously  we  explained  how  the 
average  size  of  yarns  in  any  colored 
fabric  could  be  obtained.  At  the 
same  time,  it  is  easy  enough  to  ob- 
tain  the  yards  per  pound  by  an  or- 


dinary weighing  process.  If  there 
are  7.00  yards  per  pound,  and  the 
average  yam  size  is  44s-l,  the  result 
will  be  obtained  as  follows  when  thts 
yarns  used  are  all  of  a  dyed  charac- 
ter. For  44s- 1  average  size  the  total 
cost  from  the  table  is  38.15  cents 
per  pound,  and  with  seven  yards  per 
pound  the  cost  per  yard  for  mate- 
rial would  be  5.4.5  cents.  Not  all  col- 
ored yarn  fabrics  are,  however,  of 
solid  dyed  yarn,  in  fact  the  majority 
contain  a  greater  or  less  proportion 
of  bleached  material,  and  this  com- 
plicates the  process  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent. For  ordinary  purposes  an  ap- 
proximate result  can  be  secured  as 
follows: 

In  a  dyed  yarn  fabric,  when  thb 
number  of  threads  and  picks  per 
inch  are  being  secured  it  can  be  as- 
certained how  many  of  these  threads 
are  dyed  and  how  many  of  them  aro 
bleached.  For  illustration,  in  a  cloth 
containing  80  threads  per  inch,  36  oi 
them  are  dyed,  while  of  the  filling 
24  out  of  the  56  used  are  dyed.  This 
gives  60  dyed  threads  out  of  a  total 
of  136.  Bleached  yarn  costs  approx- 
imately 4  cents  per  pound  less  than 
dyed  yarn,  so  with  44s-l  there  would 
be  60-136  of  the  total  weight  at  38.15 
cents  per  pound  and  76-136  at  34.15 
cents  per  pound,  or  16.88  cents  for 
dyed  yarn  and  19.08  cents  for  bleach- 
ed yam  per  pound,  and  with  7.65 
yards  per  pound  the  results  per  yard 
would  be  2.21  cents  for  dyed  and  2.49 
cents  per  yard  for  bleached  yarn.  A 
similar  process  can  be  observed 
where  fancy  patterns,  stripes  or 
checks  are  employed,  and  while  the 
variation  in  yarn  size  between  warp 
and  filling  and  the  fact  that  differenl 
depths  of  color  and  other  features  af- 
fect the  results,  the  Inaccuracy  will 
be  comparatively  small,  due  to  the 
other  items  of  cost. 

WEAVING    COSTS. 

In  regard  to  the  weaving  costs  ana 
the  various  other  expenses  which  oc- 
cur after  the  yam  has  been  prepar- 
ed in  a  manner  suitable  for  use  in 
the  weave  room  it  can  be  said  that 
there  are  many  items  which  are  like- 
ly to  affect  the  results.  For  ordinary 
fabrics  the  actual  loom  production  In 


104 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


yards  per  day  or  yards  per  week  is 
probably  the  most  reliable  ratio  to 
consider  when  obtaining  the  cost  of 
production  which  follows  the  cost  of 
yarn  making.  There  are  many  fab- 
rics which  through  special  weaves  or 
complicated  conditions  of  manufac- 
ture cannot  be  considered  on  the  ba- 
sis which  we  are  using.  Many  col- 
ored fabrics  are  to-day  being  produc- 
ed on  automatic  looms  with  many 
more  looms  per  weaver  and  with  a 
reduction  in  the  cost  of  production, 
but  the  use  of  automatic  looms  is  by 
no  means  as  common  as  it  is  on  cer 
tain  kinds  of  grey  goods,  and  for  this 
reason,  cannot  be  considered  when 
the  majority  of  fabrics  are  being  an- 
alyzed. 

Automatic  looms  do  make  econo- 
mies possible,  but  up  to  the  present 
time  these  savings  have  been 
secured  largely  by  the  man- 
ufacturer, and  there  has  been 
no  great  tendency  to  force  prices  onto 
an  automatic  loom  basis,  a  condition 
which  is  slowly  but  surely  developing 
in  the  grey  goods  market,  and  which 
is  making  it  less  possible  to  secure 
any  very  large  dividends  when  or- 
dinary  looms  are  being  used.  LfOom 
production  will  vary  according  to  the 
speed  and  percentage  of  pi  eduction, 
and  will  affect  the  cloth  cost  accord- 
ingly. A  box  loom  which  is  produc- 
ing any  kind  of  check  patterns  will 
operate  slower  than  one  making 
stripes  or  ordinary  patterns,  but  for 
ordinary  fabrics  of  medium  width  a 
reasonable  degree  of  accuracy  can 
be  secured.  In  addition  to  the  la- 
bor cost  of  weaving  and  handling, 
there  are  various  other  expenses  to 
be  considered,  such  as  insurance,  re- 
pairs, depreciation,  power,  light,  ship- 
ping charges  and  various  other  de- 
tails, also  the  cost  of  selling  the  mer- 
chandise. 

We  have  included  all  these  vari- 
ous items  under  one  classification, 
and  while  there  are  certain  instances 
where  such  a  classification  is  objec- 
tionable, there   are   reasons   why   the 

SIMPLEST    METHOD 
is  desirable,  and  there   should   be  no 
great    difficulty     in    ascertaining     the 
correct  amount  for  any  fabric  which 


is  being  considered.  The  various 
amounts  for  each  fabric  are  designat- 
ed by  the  picks  per  inch  which  the 
cloth  contains,  and  it  is  a  total  cost. 


Picks 
per  in. 

30.  . 

32.  . 

34.  . 

36.  . 

38.  . 

40.  . 


Total  Total 

Costs.  Costs. 

Cents  Picks  Cents 

per  yd.  per  in.  per  yd. 

.  .1.22  66 3.02 

.  .1.32  68 3.12 

..1.42  70 3.22 

..1.52  72 3.32 

.  .1.62  74 3.42 

..1.72  76 3.52 

..1.82  78 3.62 

..1.92  80 3.72 

..2.02  82 3.82 

..2.12  84 3.92 

..2.22  86 4.02 

..2.32  88 4.12 

..2.42  90 4.22 

..2.52  92 4.32 

..2.62  94 4.42 

..2.72  96 4.52 

..2.82  98 4.62 


.2.92    100 4.72 


Possibly,  a  number  of  illustrations 
will  make  the  whole  method  of  ap- 
plication very  clear  to  those  who  are 
unfamiliar  with  the  subject.  A  ging- 
ham fabric  contains  82  threads  in  the 
warp  and  84  picks  in  the  filling.  It 
contains  6.25  yards  per  pound,  is 
32  inches  wide  and  is  made  from 
carded  stock.  (It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  various  details  Tve 
have  given  are  all  for  carded  yam.) 

82   threads   +   84   picks   =    166,   total   threads 

per    inch. 
166    X    32"   wide   =    5,312  yards  of   yarn   per 

yard    of    cloth    without    take-up. 
10%   take-up  in  weaving. 
5,312    -=-    .90    =    5,902,    total    yards    of    yarn 

per  yard   of   cloth. 
5,902    X    6.25   yds   per  pound   =    36,888  yards 

of  yarn  per  pound. 
36,888     -7-    840     (standard)     =     44/1    average 

yarn   size. 
The    cloth    Is    one-half    dyed    and    one-half 

bleached   yarn. 
44/1    dyed    =    38.15    cents    per    pound    (from 

table). 
44/1    bleached   =    34.15   cents   per   pound.      (4 

cents   less   per    pound    than   dyed). 
19.08     (Vz    of    38.15     cents)     -h     6.25     =     3.06 

cents,   dyed  yarn. 
17.08     (%     of     34.15     cents)     -=-     6.25     =     2.74 

cents,    bleached   yarn. 
Weaving    and     all     expenses     (84     picks     in 

table)    =    3.92    cents. 
Total    cost,    9.72    cents    per    yard. 

Another  illustration  of  a  cheaper 
fabric  may  be  of  more  service,  inas 
much  as  it  is  more  nearly  what  the 
majority  of  fabrics  made  from  dyed 
yarns  are  likely  to  be.  This  has  a 
count  of  67  threads  and  56  picks  per 
inch,  it  is  27  inches  wide  and  con- 
tains 6.40  yards  per  pound. 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   OLOSSAKi 


-J'.. 


67  threads   -f    66  picks   -=   123    total  threads 

per   Inch. 
123    X    27"    wide    =   3.321   yarda   of   yarn    per 

yard    of    cloth    without    take-up. 
lO'/e    take-up    In    weavtnK. 
3,321   -7-   .90   =   3,690  yards  of  yarn  per  yard 

of    cloth. 
3,690    X    6.40    =    23,616     yards     of    yarn     per 

pound. 
23.616     -i-     840     (standard)     =     28/1    average 

yarn     size. 
One-half    bleached    and    one-half    dyed    yarn 

in  the  fabric. 
20/1    dyed    =    29.96    cents    per    pound    (from 

table). 
28/1    bleached    =    25.96    cents    (4    cents    less 

per    pound    for    bleached). 
14.98     (Mi     of    29.96    cents)     -+-     6.40     =    2.34 

cents,   dyed  yarn. 
12.98     (Vs.     of    25.96    cents)     -4-     6.40     =     2.03 

cents,     bleached    yarn. 
Weaving    and    all    other    expenses    (56    picks 

from    table)    =   2.52    cents. 
Total  cost  per  yard  of  cloth   =    6.89   cents. 

DOES   NOT   HOLD  FOR  ALL. 

One  of  the  conditions  whicli  must 
be  very  clearly  understood  regarding 
this  method  of  obtaining  the  cost  of 
cloth  is  that  it  does  not  apply  at  all 
to  fabrics  which  are  made  from 
stock-dyed  yarns,  neither  does  it  ap- 
ply where  yarns  are  dyed  in  any 
other  manner  than  the  ordinary  proc 
esses  of  yarn  dyeing.  Neither  does 
the  method  give  accurate  results 
when  automatic  or  semi-automatic 
looms  are  being  used.  Such  condi- 
tions of  cloth  making  have  to  be 
treated  on  an  entirely  different  basis, 
inasmuch  as  they  are  responsible  for 
a  different  cost  of  production.  Many 
styles  of  ginghams  and  similar  fab- 
rics are  now  being  produced  from 
stock-dyed  yarns,  and  on  automatic 
looms,  and  to  these  cloths  this  meth- 
od does  not  apply.  In  most  cases, 
it  will  be  found  that  results  are  more 
satisfactory  and  more  accurate  for 
the  ordinary  lines  of  colored  dress 
goods  woven  on  ordinary  looms  than 
they  are  for  some  of  the  older  types 
of  fabrics  upon  which  new  methods 
have  been  adopted. 


COTTON  CLOTH  COST  FINDING. 

A    Key    for    Cloth    Buyers   and    Cloth 
Makers. 

The  American  cotton  cloth  Indus- 
try has  developed  rapidly  during  the 
past  few  years,  but  just  how  fast  few 
really  realize  unless  they  have  been 


in  close  touch  with  selling  conditidns. 
H'ormtrly,  most  of  the  fabrics  pro- 
duced were  made  from  coarse  yarns, 
and  the  patterns  were  made  largely 
by  the  introduction  of  colors,  while 
to-day  the  styling  and  weaves  are  of 
great  variety,  with  yarns  of  much 
liner  sizes  and  very  much  better 
quality.  Naturally,  such  a  develop- 
ment has  been  brought  about  through 
the  demand  of  consumers,  but  along 
with  this  increased  demand  there 
h.ive  arisen  many  problems  of  sell- 
intr  and  making  which  at  one  time 
we.-e  not  of  great  importance. 

Iii  the  first  place  many  oi  the  new 
lincK  of  cloth  are  handled  by  conver- 
ters Dr  converting  jobbers  who  place 
ordeis  for  fabrics  and  who  designate 
what  the  cloth  constructions  and  pat- 
terns are  to  be,  and  in  this  way  the 
manufacturer  is  more  a  cloth  make: 
than  he  is  a  cloth  or  style  developer 
In  a  large  number  of  cases,  this  cor 
verier  asks  a  mill  treasurer  to  quote 
a  price  on  the  fabrics  or  combination? 
which  he  desires  and  which  the  milt 
has  not  previously  made,  and,  there- 
fore, a  manufacturer  must  have  some 
means  of  knowing  fairly  accurately, 
the  cost  of  making  any  cloth  his  mill 
is  able  to  produce.  This  necessity 
has  resulted  in  the  keeping  of  care- 
ful records  and  from  such  records 
economical  cloth  making  has  partly 
been  due. 

The  building  of  large  mills,  to- 
gether with  the  great  Increase  In 
competition,  has  also  been  responsi- 
ble for  the  lowering  of  costs  of  pro- 
duction, as  has  the  greater  general 
knowledge  regarding  the  fine  points 
in  fabric  making.  Under  such  con- 
''itions  as  have  developed,  even  the 
older  mills,  which  make  fabrics  of 
bleached  and  colored  yarns,  have 
found  that  a  better  knowledge  than 
formerly  is  necessary  regarding  tht 
costs  of  cloth  making,  that  is  if  thev 
continue  in  the  race  with  others,  and 
if  the  fabrics  they  produce  be  the 
ones  which  show  the  best  marplns  of 
profit. 

The  cost  systems  which  have  been 
developed  are,  many  of  them,  fairly 
satisfactory  In  the  plant  where  they 
are    used    but    are    of    comparatively 


100 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


little  value  to  others,  and  it  can  oe 
said  that  there  is  about  as  great  va- 
riety in  the  methods  which  are  em- 
ployed as  could  well  be  imagined 
Admitting  that  these  methods  of  find- 
ing costs  are  satisfactory  to  the  mills 
using  them,  it  will  be  seen  that  they 
give  more  or  less  protection  to  the 
cloth  maker  in  that  he  can  Quote  a 
price  to  a  buyer  which  may  or  may 
not  be  exhorbitant.  The  buyer  has 
no  protection  at  all  excepting  that 
obtained  through  asking  quotations 
from  different  sellers  for  the  same 
clotb.  and  through  his  own  judgment 
regarding  the  price  at  which  the 
cloth  will  sell. 

Because  certain  trained  cloth  mak> 
ers  have  information  of  the  above  na- 
ture they  are  of  value  to  cloth  buy- 
ers, making  money  for  them  by  sav- 
ing it.  Recognizing  that  a  cloth  buy 
er  is  just  as  important  in  distribut- 
ing as  a  manufacturer  is  in  produc- 
Ine.  and  knowing  that  absolutely  no 
■^oiiahle  information  is  obtainable  on 
the  subject,  we  are  presenting  a  few 
general  rules  which  will  be  of  great 
value  to  buyers,  and  which  will  give 
a  certain  amount  of  aid  to  manufac- 
turers. 

FABRIC  ANALYSIS. 

It  should  be  readily  seen  by  anyone 
who  understands  anything  about 
cloth  that  any  reliable  cost  system 
must  be  based  first  on  certain  funda- 
mental facts  of  cloth  construction.  In 
this  it  is  no  different  than  any  other 
oroblem  of  construction,  for  the  items 
material,  labor,  insurance,  supplies 
and  all  the  other  details  must  be  con- 
Bidered  carefully.  To  many  the  prob- 
lem appears  very  complicated,  be- 
cause the  items  for  cotton  cloth  are 
so  small  per  yard. 

A  cost  estimate  is  either  made 
from  a  stated  construction  or  from  a 
sample  submitted,  and  as  making  a 
cloth  analysis  consists  in  obtaining 
the  cloth  construction,  the  problems 
are  identical  when  this  has  been  ac- 
complished. There  are  two  facts 
uDon  which  cotton  cloth  construction 
depends,  first,  that  No.  1  yarn  con- 
tains 840  yards  per  pound.  No.  2  yam 
contains  1,680  yards  per  pound,  and 


Ko  on,  or,  in  other  words,  that  No.  60 
yarn  contains  50  times  840  yards,  or 
iZ.uuu  yards  per  pound,  and  second, 
tnat  a  pouna,  as  used  for  yarn,  con- 
tains lb   ounces  or   7,000   grains. 

In  giving  all  of  our  estimates  we 
bave  attempted  to  make  the  problem 
as  simple  as  possible,  not  only  re- 
garding the  yarns  and  their  cost  but 
also  regarding  the  cloth  and  its  cost 
or  making.  We  have,  therefore,  laid 
out  the  cost  on  an  average  number 
Oasis,  and  while  this  has  its  defects. 
It  gives  results  which  are  fairly  ac- 
curate, ana  wnich  are  much  more  re- 
liable than  some  mills  have  been  in 
ibe  habit  of  obtaining.  The  results 
are  ones  which  might  be  noted  in  any 
medium-sized,  economical  plant,  ano 
while  some  operate  at  a  lower  cost, 
there  are  others  which  have  a  hlgner 
cost,  and,  in  this  connection,  the  fig 
ares  given  will  be  of  value.  Unde: 
certain  conditions,  some  cloth  buyer? 
or  cloth  makers  may  desire  to  under- 
stand the  method  of  analyzing  a 
piece  of  cloth,  and  we,  therefore 
present  such  a  process. 

ANALYZING    CLOTH. 

The  first  step  in  making  a  cloth 
analysis  is  to  obtain  the  number  of 
threads  and  picks  per  inch,  and  this 
is  accompl  shed  either  by  cutting  out 
a  certain  amount  of  cloth  with  a  die 
and  men  pulling  out  the  threads  anc 
counting  them,  or  else  by  counting 
the  threads  with  a  magnifying  glass 
as  they  stand  in  the  cloth.  The 
threads  per  inch  in  the  cloth  multl 
plied  by  the  cloth  width  will  give  the 
number  ot  threads  in  the  warp  un- 
less there  be  a  special  pattern  where 
extra  threads  are  used.  This  is,  of 
course,  not  considering  the  selvages, 
for  they  are  usually  about  a  quarter 
(if  an  inch  wide  on  each  edge  of  the 
cloth,  and  contain  about  twice  as 
many  threads  as  the  ground  work  of 
the  fabric. 

The  next  step  is  to  obtain  the  yarn 
sizes  in  the  cloth  being  considered 
This  is  done  by  pulling  out  thread! 
and  then  weighing  on  accurate  bal 
ances.  The  amount  of  yarn  to  b- 
weighed  will  depend  somewhat  on 
circumstances,  but  any  amount  ove^ 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


107 


=     26/1 


100  inches  will  give  satisfactory  re- 
sults if  the  balances  be  accurate,  al- 
ctiough.,  of  course,  it  is  often  possible 
CO  obtain  only  a  few  inches  of  cloth, 
ind  estimates  must  be  made  under 
such  conditions.  To  illustrate  the 
aieiboa  used  in  finding  the  size  of 
yarn   an   example  may   be  of  service 

•     AN    EXAMPLE. 
If  124  inches  of  yarn  be  pulled  out 
and   thcu   weighed  ana  the  weight  is 
1  1-10  grains,  what  is  the  yam  size? 
The  formula  is. 

124  inches   X  7,000  grains 
1.1  grains  X  36  Inches  X  840  standard 

The  result  as  obtained  will  be  clear 
enough  to  anyone  having  any  expe- 
rieLce,  but  an  explanation  may  be  o< 
value.  If  the  I2!4  inches  which  were 
weighed  be  divided  by  tne  weight,  or 
1  1-10  grains,  tlie  result  will  be  th-e 
inches  per  grain,  or  112  7-10.  As 
the^e  are  7,000  grains  per  pound,  thf 
inches  per  grain  times  7,000 
will  give  inches  per  pound.  If  this 
result  be  aivmed  by  36  inches,  it  will 
give  the  number  of  yards  per  pound 
and  wneu  any  given  number  of  yards 
of  cotton  yarn  weighs  a  pound,  the 
size  can  easily  be  obtained  by  divid- 
ing by  840  yards  which  is  the  stand- 
ard   for   No.   1    yarn. 

Of  course,  in  making  any  accurate 
analysis  there  are  also  other  facts 
which  should  be  obtained,  such  as 
the   take-up   on   the   yarn,    or    yams 


used,  both  warp  and  fiUine,  and  the 
warp  pattern  or  weave,  if .  the  cloth 
is  to  be  duplicated.  The  take-up  can 
be  obtained  approximately  by  pulling 
out  yarn  and  measuring  the  length 
obtained  and  comparing  it  with  the 
length  of  the  cloth  woven  from   It. 

Aii  an  illustration,  the  following 
may  make  the  process  clear:  A 
thread  is  6^  inches  long  when  It  is 
woven  in  the  cloth,  but  stretches  to 
7  inches  when  pulled  out.  "What  is 
the    take-up? 


7  inches 
.5  inches 


6%  inches  =  .5  Inches. 
7   inches  =  7%  take-up. 


With  a  little  experience,  the  result 
obtained  in  this  manner  will  be  en 
tirely    satisfactory. 

THE  PATTERN. 
When  the  fabric  has  a  pattern  in 
it,  some  kind  of  a  plan  must  be 
made  if  an  accurate  analysis  be  de- 
sired, but  this  is  only  necessary  in 
certain  instances  in  the  plan  such  as 
we  have  used  in  our  system  of  costs. 
Following  w^e  give  a  plan  which  may 
be  of  service.  The  first  step  is  to 
obtain  the  width  of  the  pattern,  and 
by  dividing  the  width  of  the  cloth  by 
that  of  the  pattern  the  number  of 
repeats  of  the  pattern  may  be  ob- 
tained, and  from  this  result  the  num- 
ber of  ends  or  threads  of  the  differ- 
ent yarns   in   the   warp. 

Cloth    width.    35%".      Selvages,    V*"      total. 
Pattern   width,    .51   inch. 

35%"    —  V*"   =  35V4"    -4-   .51  =  69  3-5  repeats. 
Note   that    the    selvages    are    narrower   than    It 
usually    the    case. 


PATTERN    BLUE    SAMPLE 
12, 

•im    American  combed    -. (12| 

^<*'\    American   combed   blue 

JO'S  .\merlcan  carded   ,..■ 


32  4 

2 

1         1 


I  I  I  I  21 
I  I  I  l-l 
I     132      1121 


a,u« 


t08 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


To  make  the  process  as  simple  as 
possible,  the  system  as  we  have 
planned  makes  it  unnecessary  to  an- 
alyze a  piece  of  cloth  so  as  to  be  able 
to  find  the  cost  of  malcing.  A  few 
items  are,  however,  necessary,  and 
they  should  be  readily  understood. 
One  fact  which  it  is  necessary  to 
know  is  the  width  of  ths  cloth.  An- 
other is  the  threads  ard  picks  per 
inch.  On  these  two  facts,  together 
with  the  take-up  and  the  fundamental 
facts  regarding  yarn  weights  and 
sizes,  the  following  system  is  found- 
ed. In  a  general  way,  Ihe  yarn  take- 
ups  in  ordinary  cloths  may  be  about 
10  per  cent,  and  we  have  used  this 
figure  in  our  explanation. 

The  take-up  will  probably  be  more 
than  the  amount  given  on  heavy  and 
less  on  light  fabrics,  rnd  if  more  ac- 
curacy be  desired  than  that  obtained 
through  the  use  of  10  per  cent  take- 
up  the  threads  and  picks  can  be  pull- 
ed out,  and  the  actual  take-up  of  the 
cloth  noted  and  averai^ed,  and  in  this 
manner  a  better  result  be  obtained. 
It  is  admitted  that  yarn  sizes  are 
much  different  when  finished  cloth  is 
being  considered,  but,  due  to  han- 
dling and  processing,  the  yarns  are 
generally  finer  in  finished  cloth  than 
they  are  in  grey  cloth.  Usually,  a 
yarn  which  is  50-1  in  grey  cloth  will 
become  about  55-1  in  finished  cloth 
or,  in  other  words,  it  will  be  about  1' 
per  cent  finer.  This  fact  should  ba 
considered  when  a  finished  cloth  is 
being  analyzed,  or  when  the  cost  o' 
making   is   being  obtained. 

THE    AVERAGE    NUMBER. 

To  make  the  method  clear,  we  will 
follow  out  the  process  of  obtaining 
the  average  number  from  an  nrdv 
nary  fabric.  A  wide  standard  print 
cloth  contains  64  threads  and  64 
Dicks  per  inch.  It  is  38J  inches  wide 
in  the  grey  state  and  weighs  5.15 
yards  per  pound.  If  the  threads  and 
picks  be  added  together  (64  threads 
plus  64  picks  equals  128  total 
threads  per  inch),  and  then  multi 
plied  by  the  cloth  width,  it  will  give 


the  number  of  yards  of  yarn  in  a 
yard  of  cloth  without  the  take-ut)  on 
the  yarn.  This  gives  as  a  result  4,- 
928  yards  of  yarn.  As  we  have  pre- 
viously stated,  there  is  a  10  per  cent 
take-up,  and  if  this  be  added,  the  re- 
sult will  be  5,476  yards  of  yarn  (to- 
tal) in  a  yard  of  cloth.  As  there  are 
5.15  yards  per  pound  in  this  cloth,  if 
the  yards  of  yarn  per  yard  be  multi- 
plied by  the  yards  of  cloth  per  pound. 
the  result  will  be  the  number  of 
yards  of  yam  per  pound  (5,476 
times  5.15  equals  28,201  yards), 
If  this  number  of  yards  of  yarn  be 
divided  by  the  standard  number  of 
840,  it  will  give  the  average  size  of 
yarn  in  the  cloth  as  woven,  or  34 
(28,201  divided  by  840  equals  34). 
This  result  forms  the  basis  of  es- 
timating the  cost  of  the  material 
which  enters  into  each  yard  of  cloth. 
If  there  be  a  pattern  in  the  cloth 
which  contains  cords  or  extra 
threads,  all  that  it  is  necessary  to 
do  is  to  obtain  the  number  of  threads 
in  the  pattern  and  the  width  of 
»hp  nattern,  and  then  the  total 
number  of  ends  in  the  warp  can  be 
obtained  as  previously  explained. 
When  there  is  a  check  in  the  filling, 
the  same  process  can  be  employed, 
and  by  adding  the  average  number 
of  threads  and  picks  per  inch  to- 
gether the  average  size  can  be 
obtained,  just  the  same  as  if  only  one 
size  of  yarn  had  been  used  in  warp 
and  filling.  Following  are  presented 
the  figures  previously  obtained  so 
that  the  process  may  be  clear: 

64   threads   -^  «4  nicks  =  128.  total  threads  per 

'nr-Vi. 

12S  X  SSMs",  cloth  width  =  4,928  yards  of  yarn 
per    yard    of    cloth    without    ♦ake-ups. 

10''?,    take-up    in    weaving-. 

4,S2.S  -^  .9  =  6,476,  total  yards  of  yarn  per 
I'-^rd    of    cloth. 

5,476  X  5.15  yards  per  lb.  =  28.201  yards  of 
varn   per   lb.    of   cloth. 

28.201   H-  S40  standard  =  34,   average   yarn  size. 

ITEMS  OF  MRN  COST, 

The  method  we  have  adopted 
shows  in  a  simple  manner  how  to  ob- 
tain  the    average    size   of  the   yarns 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


109 


which  compose  a  fabric,  and  the 
next  probiem  is  to  obtain  the  costs 
of  these  yarns.  In  obtaining  the  cost 
of  yarn  the  first  item  which  is  of  im- 
portance is  the  cost  of  the  material 
or  cotton.  This  cost  will  vary  in 
different  years  and  in  different  parts 
of  the  same  year,  so  that  no  figures 
are  absolutely  reliable  except  for  a 
comparatively  short  time  after  being 
presenteu,  but  a  simple  rule  will 
serve  to  make  the  results  very  accu- 
rate. In  the  costs,  as  we  have  laid 
them  out,  the  yarn  costs  are  based 
on  cotton  which  costs  14  cents  a 
pound  for  Middling  Uplands  grade 
at  the  mill,  or  on  to-day's  basis  of 
costs.  This  makes  the  cost  of  cotton 
aDout  l'6i  cents,  as  quoted  in  the  cot- 
ton exchange.  If  cotton  should  de- 
cline 2  cents  a  pound,  this  amount 
subtracted  from  the  price  of  yarn  as 
given  will  be  accurate  enough  for  all 
ordinary  purposes,  and  if  the  price 
of  cotton  should  advance,  any  extra 
charges  over  the  131  cents,  as  quoted 
on  the  exchange,  should  be  added  to 
the  price  of  the  yarn  as  given.  The 
finer  yarns  are,  of  course,  made  from 
longer  staple  cotton,  but  it  has  been 
found  tnat  the  advances  for  the  dif- 
ferent lengths  of  staples  are  quite  reg 
ular,  and  that  if  the  advances  or  de- 
creases noted  on  Middling  Uplands 
grade  be  added  to  or  subtracted  from 
the  yarn  costs  as  given  and  made 
from  longer  staple  cotton,  the  results 
will  be  entirely  satisfactory.  The 
price  of  Middling  Uplands  can  always 
be  obtained  from  any  eood  textile  pa- 
per. 

LOSSES    IN   PROCESSING. 

When  the  price  of  cotton  has  been 
obtained  there  are,  of  course,  certain 
losses  in  processing  at  the  mill  which 
make  the  net  cost  of  cotton  in  the 
yarn  somewhat  higher  than  it  was 
when  purchased.  We  have  consider- 
ed normal  conditions  in  the  amounts 
of  waste  made  and  in  the  extra  price 
made  necessary  through  this  loss, 
and,   of   course,   the  loss   on   combed 


yarn   is   much   higher    than   that    for 
carded   yarn. 

In  addition  to  the  price  of  material 
in  the  yarn  is  the  cost  of  the  labor 
of  spinning  it  and  getting  it  In  a 
condition  ready  to  weave,  and  also 
the  various  expenses  such  as  sup- 
plies, insurance,  depreciation  and  the 
other  costs  necessary  in  the  processes 
of  making  yarn.  Yarns  are  not  all 
made  with  the  same  amount  of  twist, 
and  because  the  twist  will  vary,  the 
production  per  spindle  will  vary,  and, 
naturally,  when  the  production  va- 
ries, the  cost  of  making  will  vary, 
but  for  normal  yarns  the  cost  of  the 
cotton  forms  such  a  large  proportion 
that  a  small  variation  in  production 
does  not  greatly  affect  the  total  cost 
of  the   finished   material. 

COMBED    YARNS. 

Not  only  do  combed  yarns  have  a 
greater  loss  in  cotton  but  they  also 
have  a  somewhat  larger  expense  In 
making,  and  this  has  been  considered 
in  calculating  the  costs.  Then  it  is  also 
true  that  warp  yarn  made  from  a 
certain  cotton  is  likely  to  be  of  a 
coarser  size  than  filling  made  from 
the  same  length  of  staple.  Thus. 
30s-l  warp  might  be  made  from  1  1-16- 
inch  staple,  while  the  same  staple 
would  be  used  in  filling  as  fine  as 
40S-1.  As  we  have  only  given  one 
cost,  which  is  the  average  for  both 
warp  and  filling,  the  change  in  length 
of  staple  comes  at  a  higher  number 
than  it  would  if  warp  and  filling  had 
been  considered  separately,  that  la, 
by  obtaining  an  average  price  the 
cost  of,  say,  44s-l  yarn  would  be 
rather  low  for  warp  and  high  for  fill- 
ing, but  is  a  fair  average. 

Admitting  that  there  are  certain 
faults  in  treating  the  subject  as  we 
have,  but  which  are  due  to  the  fact 
that  it  is  a  short  system  and  one 
which  can  be  used  by  those  not  ac- 
quainted with  a  great  amount  of  tech- 
nical detail  used  in  cloth  making,  we 
give  the  following  table  of  yarn  costs 
for  both  combed  and  carded  yarna: 


no 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


YARN  COSTS  FOR  COMBED  AND 
CARDED  YARNS. 

Including  All  Costs  up  to  the  Weave 
Room. 

Carded.  Combed. 

(Cents  (Cents 
Size.                       per  pound.)               per  pound.) 

10  14.68  22.14 

Vi  14.92  22.60 

14  16.18  22.69 

16  16.46  22.99 

18  16.74  23.29 

-  20  16.02  23.81 

22  16.34  23.95 

24  16.66  24.31 

26  19.22  24.63 

28  19.56  26.01 

30  19.92  25.40 

82  20.30  25.82 

34  20.67  26.23 

36          '  23.27  26.60 

38  23.68  27.04 

40  24.05  27.44 

.42  24.47  27.91 

44  24.93  28.42 

46  27.63  31.51 

48  28.12  32.05 

60  28.60  32.56 

65  29.77  33.86 
60  33.08  37.62 

66  34.58  39.23 

70  43.39 

76  45.09 

80  49.49 

85  51.52 

90  66.21 

95  58.44 

lOO  63.11 

METHOD  OF  USING  YARN  KEY. 

We  have  previously  explained  how 
to  obtain  the  average  number  in  an? 
piece  of  cloth,  and  it  is  a  simple 
process,  for  all  that  is  needed  is  the 
total  average  threads  and  picks  per 
inch,  and  by  actually  weighing  the 
cloth,  the  average  size  of  the  yarn 
can  be  obtained.  Buyers  can  obtain 
the  weight  of  the  cloth  and  the  count 
because  it  is  usually  given  in  the 
contracts  made,  but  when  it  is  not 
available,  it  can  be  very  easily  ob- 
tained. We  have  found  that  the  av- 
erage size  of  yarn  in  the  standard 
print  cloth  is  about  34s-l.  By  refer- 
ring to  the  table  we  find  that  for 
carded  yarn  the  cost  of  making,  in- 
cluding the  cotton,  is  20.67  cents  per 
pound.  This  cloth  weighs  5.15  yards 
per  pound,  or  .194  pounds  per  yard. 
Tf  this  cost  be  multiplied  by  the  ac 
tual  weiaht  per  yayd  of  the  cloth,  the 
cost  of  the  material  can  easily  be 
obtaiv-ed,  which  enters  into  each  yard 
^*  the  cloth,   (20.67  cents  per  pound 


times   .194   equals   4.01   cents,   cost  of 
material). 

Some  buyers  may  not  he  able  to 
distinguish  which  fabrics  are  made  of 
carded  yarn  and  which  of  combed 
yarn.  When  a  buyer  makes  a  con- 
tract this  is  usually  stated,  but  for 
those  who  are  not  in  position  to  ob- 
tain this  information,  it  can  be  said 
that  the  cloth  appearance  in  a  large 
number  of  cases  will  make  this  fact 
plain. 

When  yarns  are  finer  than  P-Os-l 
they  are  almost  always  made  from 
combed  stock,  while  there  are  also 
all  the  mercerized  fabrics  and  moat 
of  the  piece-dyed  fabrics  which  are 
made  from  combed  stock.  When  a 
piece  of  grey  cloth  is  obtainaible,  or 
when  it  is  being  analyzed  and  If  it  is 
made  of  carded  stock  there  is  likely 
to  be  a  good  many  small  specks 
which  are  not  often  present  when 
the  combed  yarn  has  been  used. 
Cloth  made  from  carded  yarn  is  also 
likely  to  have  a  certain  amount  of 
roughness  which  is  not  present  in 
combed  work.  A  little  experience 
^ill  enable  one  to  estimate  pretty  ao 
r-urately  whether  a  fabric  has  been 
made  from  carded  or  combed  yarn 
Tf  combed  yarn  has  been  used,  the 
orices  should  be  used  as  given  under 
the  combed  heading  in  the  table. 

CLOTH  COSTS. 

We  have  already  shown  a  method 
by  which  the  average  size  of  yarn  in 
any  piece  of  cloth  might  be  obtained, 
and  have  also  given  a  table  in  which 
there  are  included  the  price  of  ma- 
terial, labor,  expenses  and  other  de- 
tails necessary  in  the  making  of 
yarn.  With  the  average  number  and 
the  average  price,  the  cost  of  the 
material  in  the  yard  of  cloth  is  eas- 
ily found,  but  there  are  other  costs 
which  are  nec°ssary  before  the  total 
cloth  cost  is  obtained.  These  are  the 
costs  of  weaving  and  the  expenses 
which  naturally  go  with  it,  together 
with  the  expenses  incurred  in  selling 
the    cloth. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  there  are 
a  very  great  number  of  costs  possible 
for  weaving  any  certain  kind  of 
cloth.     In   the  first  place,  there  are 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


111 


certain  fabrics  which  are  being  wov- 

en  on  ordinary  looms,  and  at  the  same 
time,  being  produced  in  other  mills 
on  automatic  looms,  and,  naturaUy, 
the  cost  of  production  will  vary. 
Then  it  is  also  true  that  one  mill  will 
use  a  somewhat  shorter  staple  of  cot- 
ton in  its  yarn  and  then  run  its 
looms  somewhat-  slower  and  with  a 
consequent  loss  in  percentage  ot  pro- 
duction. Other  mills  will  use  a  bet- 
ter quality  of  cotton  which  coats 
more,  and,  therefore,  be  able  to  run 
the  loom  somewhat  faster  and  obtain 
a  greater  percentage  of  production. 

Each  mill  has  certain  problems 
which  are  individual  and  which  must 
be  worked  out  to  their  own  satisfac- 
tion, but  the  variarion  taken  all  to- 
gether for  yarn  and  cloth  is  not  so 
great  as  many  suppose  to  be  the 
case.  There  are  so  many  automatic 
looms  in  operation  in  the  domestic 
market  that  they  should  be  consider- 
ed when  the  price  is  being  obtained 
on  any  ordinary  fabric  which  can  be 
produced  on  them.  Under  such  cir- 
cumstances, practically  all  kinds  of 
plain  cloth,  sateens,  twills,  plain 
Thirtings,  duck.  denims,  sheet- 
ings, towels,  drills,  lawns,  cambrics, 
pillow  tubing,  ginghams,  flannels, 
etc.,  should  be  considered  as  woven 
on  automatic  looms,  for  they  do  make 
the  price  lower.  It  is  often  a  fact 
that  a  certain  cloth  is  being  made  on 
automatic  looms  and  is  returning  a 
fair  dividend  at  a  certain  price,  while 
it  is  also  true  that  the  same  fabric 
is  being  made  on  ordinary  looms,  and 
is  returning  the  manufacturer  prac- 
tically no  dividends. 

A  fact  which  is  of  importance  in 
any  cost  is  the  relation  of  prices  to 
costs.  The  price  of  cloth  to-day 
shows  a  high  profit  when  automatic 
looms  are  used,  and  a  medium  one 
where  non-automatic  looms  are  used, 
but  the  price  of  cotton  to-day  is  high; 
and  many  manufacturers  are  using 
cotton  in  the  cloth  which  they  are 
splling  which  actually  costs  them  2 
cents  a  pound  less  than  the  present 
price,  and  which  on  an  ordinary  wide 
print  cloth  would  return  them  about 
two-fifths  of  a  cpnt  per  yard  more 
than   if   they   found    it   necessary   to 


buy  their  cotton  at  to-day's  price. 
ihis  two-fifths  of  a  cent  per  yard 
will  make  a  difference  in  profit  ob- 
tained of  from  7  to  8  per  cent  and 
explains  why  proftts  do  not  appear 
any  higher  in  our  estimates.  In  ob- 
iaining  any  cost  of  yarn  the  cotton 
cost  must  be  first  checked  up  and 
then  the  process  is  simple. 

We  have  given  one  table  which 
contains  the  cost  of  weaving,  includ- 
ing the  expenses  per  loom  and  the 
selling  costs  per  yard  for  cloths  con- 
taining from  20  to  124  picks.  Our 
yarn  cost  contains  everything  up  to 
the  weaving  operation,  while  the 
jloth  or  weaving  cost  embraces  ev- 
erything which  is  not  included  in  the 
yarn  costs.  Recognizing  that  loom 
speeds  will  vary  and  that  percent- 
ages of  production  will  varv  also,  we 
present  the  following  table,  which, 
together  with  the  yarn  costs,  will 
give  the  cost  on  all  ordinary  fabrics. 
We  have  given  the  cost  which  should 
he  noted  with  a  moderate  loom  speed 
with  a  rather  low  percentage  of  pro- 
duction and  a  comparativelv  nmall 
number  of  looms  per  operative.  Many 
mills  are  able  to  do  much  better  than 
the  figures  given  in  the  table,  but  for 
average  conditions,  the  table  will  be 
^ound  to  be  very  accurate. 

PLAIN  CLOTH  COST. 


Including 

All    Costs 

i    Beginn 

ing    WI1 

Weave  1 

Room. 

Costs 

Costs 

Picks. 

per  yard. 

Picks. 

per  yard. 

20 

$0.0025 

70 

$0.0096 

22 

0.0028 

72 

0.0099 

24 

0.0031 

74 

0.0102 

26 

0.0034 

76 

0.0106 

28 

0.0037 

78 

0.0108 

SO 

0.0040 

80 

0.0110 

32 

0.0042 

82 

00118 

34 

0.0045 

84 

0.0116 

36 

0.0048 

86 

0.0119 

38 

O.0051 

88 

0.0122 

40 

0.00o4 

90 

0.0125 

42 

0.O057 

92 

0.0128 

44 

0.0060 

94 

o.aso 

46 

0.0062 

96 

0.0133 

48 

0.0065 

98 

0.0136 

50 

0.0068 

100 

0.0139 

52 

0.0071 

102 

0.0141 

54 

0.0074 

104 

0.0144 

56 

0.0O76 

106 

0.0147 

58 

0.0079 

108 

0.0160 

fiO 

0.0082 

110 

0.0163 

62 

0.0085 

112 

0.015S 

64 

0.0088 

114 

0.0159 

66 

0.0091 

116 

0.0162 

•58 

0.0093 

118 

0.0K4 

120 

0.0167 

122 

0.0170 

124 

0.0171 

112 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


As  we  have  already  explained  the 
method  of  obtaining  the  yarn  size  ii 
any  piece  of  cloth  and  through  the 
table  of  yarn  costs  we  have  been 
able  to  find  out  how  much  the  cost 
)f  material  is  for  each  yard  "of  cloth 
Lhe  foregoing  table  will  enable  us  to 
ascertain  all  the  other  costs  which 
we  have  not  included  in  the  cost  of 
the  yarn.  As  we  figured  previously, 
the  cost  of  material  or  yarn  in  a  yard 
of  ordinary  print  cloth,  38i  inches 
wide,  was  4.01  cent.  By  referring  to 
the  table  of  costs  given  above,  it  will 
be  noted  that  for  a  plain  cloth  with 
64  picks  the  cost  of  weaving  and  ex- 
penses is  $0.0088,  or  a  total  cost  (4.01 
cents  plus  .88  cents  equals  4.89  cents). 
This  cloth  is  to-day  selling  for  about 
SJ  cents,  thus  giving  a  profit  of  .61 
cents  a  yard.  With  a  normal  produc- 
tion per  loom  this  will  give  a  net 
profit  of  at  least  $70  per  loom  per 
year,  although  many  mills,  through 
their  longer  hours  and  greater 
percentage  of  production,  wouia 
obtain  more  than  this  amount. 
Seventy  dollars  a  loom  per 
year  will  give  a  profit  on  a  fair  loom 
valuation  of  11  or  12  per  cent.  Thus 
it  will  be  seen  that  any  manufacturer 
who  purchased  his  cotton  the  present 
season  at  12  cents  per  pound  at  the 
mill  is  obtaining,  with  prices  of  cloth 
at  the  present  levels,  a  profit  of  at 
least   20   per   cent. 

In  many  cases,  the  profit  obtained 
is  more  than  this  amount,  for  we 
have  not  given  in  our  estimates  any 
low  figures  for  any  single  item,  but 
have  confined  ourselves  to  normal 
conditions  which  should  be  noted  in 
every  representative  mill.  With  the 
foregoing  explanations,  it  should  be 
an  easy  matter  to  obtain  the  approx- 
imate cost  of  any  cotton  fabric  which 
is  made  on  an  automatic  loom. 


FANCY  CLOTH  COSTS. 

As  we  have  already  stated,  there  is 
quite  a  variation  in  loom  speeds  and 
percentages  of  production  on  plain 
cloths,  but  there  is  an  even  wider  va- 
riation in  the  above  items  on  fancy 
cloths.    The  cloth  constructions  made 


and  various  other  items  are  likely  to 
affect  the  results,  and  even  to  the 
mill  which  makes  the  cloth  the  re- 
sults obtained  are  often  not  ascer- 
tainable. The  analysis  of  a  fancy 
cloth  or  the  finding  of  the  average 
number  of  yarn  used  is  no  different 
than  for  a  coarser  fabric.  It  is,  how- 
ever, a  good  policy  to  find  out  the 
take-ups  and  use  the  ones  found  when 
making  an  estimate  for  the  yarn  size. 
There  are  so  many  varied  conditions 
that  only  normal  cloths  can  be  con- 
sidered. Such  fabrics  as  all-over 
lenos  or  ones  on  which  there  is  a 
higher  weaving  expense,  or  where 
less  looms  than  usual  per  weaver  are 
run,  of  course  cannot  be  considered 
on  any  average  basis,  because  the 
weaving  cost  is  so  high. 

The  weaving  of  fancy  cloth  has, 
however,  become  more  systematized 
during  the  past  ten  years,  and  where 
there  is  a  style  which  does  not  run 
especially  well,  it  is  usually  placed 
in  a  set  of  looms  in  such  a  manner 
that  it  is  operated  on  a  basis  not 
much,  if  any,  different  than  other 
normal  fancy  fabrics.  Jacquard 
looms  a  few  years  ago  were  fewer  in 
number  to  a  weaver  than  they  are 
to-day,  and  in  a  great  many  instances, 
for  ordinary  straight  tie-up  machines 
the  number  of  looms  per  weaver  is 
as  many  as  it  is  for  ordinary  fancy 
cloths.  For  this  reason,  fancy  dobby 
cloth  and  ordinary  jacquard  cloth  can 
be  considered  on  the  same  basis. 

FABRIC    WIDTHS. 

It  would  be  well  to  remember  that 
all  of  our  costs  as  given  apply  to  or- 
dinary fabrics,  that  is.  ones  up  to  41 
or  42  inches  wide  in  the  grey.  Fancy 
fabrics  are  not  often  made  in  the  do- 
mestic market  much  over  36  inches 
wide  in  the  grey  state,  but  there  are 
many  imported  fabrics  in  these  lines 
which  are  up  to  46  or  47  inches  wide 
in    the   finished    state. 

There  are  many  plain  fabrics,  how- 
ever, which  are  made  wider  than  40 
inches  in  the  domestic  market,  but 
we  have  not  attempted  to  present 
costs  on  such  fabrics,  although  they 
will  not  vary  greatly  from  those  giv- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


lis 


in  in  our  table,  inasmuch  as  the  ma- 
lerial  forms  such  a  large  proportion 
of  the  total  cost.  Fancy  mills  usual- 
ly have  quite  a  variety  of  looms  in 
their  organization,  and  all  these 
looms  cost  different  amounts,  but  it 
is  almost  impossible  to  separate  the 
various  items  and  place  them  on  a 
different  basis,  and  for  this  reason, 
ordinary  jacquard  cloths  such  as 
shirtings,  waistings  and  silk  and  cot- 
ton mixtures  are  sold  on  practically 
the  same  basis  of  cost  as  ordinary 
dobby  fabrics.  The  difference  in 
costs  is  so  slight  that  for  all  practical 
purposes  they  may  be  considered  on 
the    same    basis. 

MILL  PROFITS. 

So  far  as  the  profits  of  a  mill 
or  the  selling  price  of  cloth  is  con- 
cerned, it  can  be  said  that  these  are 
largely  the  result  of  conditions  affect- 
ing the  sale  of  goods.  Fancy  clotn 
mills,  or  at  least  many  of  them,  at- 
tempt to  obtain  a  net  profit  of  about 
$2  per  loom  per  week,  or  about  $100 
per  loom  per  year,  which  gives  at 
least  a  net  profit  of  10  per  cent  if  the 
mill  be  arranged  for  expensive  cluths, 
while  it  gives  more  than  10  per  cent 
profit  if  an  ordinary  fancy  mill  be 
'considered. 

The  profit  per  yard  will  vary  de- 
pending upon  the  number  of  picks  per 
inch,  for  it  would  not  be  a  correct 
policy  to  expect  a  30-pick  cloth  to 
return  as  high  a  profit  per  yard  as 
one  containing  100  picks.  A  clotn 
which  was  being  produced  at  the  rate 
of  200  yards  per  loom  per  week  and 
which  was  showing  a  net  profit  of  1 
cent  per  yard  would  return  about  $2 
per  week,  or  about  $100  per  year.  A 
plain  cloth  does  not  need  to  carry  the 
same  amount  of  profit,  because  the 
total  cost  per  loom  of  the  mill  is  lese 
for  plain  cloth  than  it  is  for  fancj 
cloth  making.  Understanding  all  the 
above  conditions  and  realizing  thai 
there  are  radical  cloths  which  cannot 
be  considered  under  any  but  an  in- 
dividual basis,  we  present  the  follow 
ing  table  which  includes  all  the  costs 
of  fancy  cloth  weaving. 


FANCY  CLOTH  COSTS. 

Including    All    Costs     Beginning    Witt- 
the   Weave   Room. 


Costs 

Costs 

Picks 

per  yard. 

Picks. 

per  yard. 

20 

$0.0072 

70 

$0.0274 

22 

o.ooso 

72 

0.0282 

24 

0.0088 

74 

0.0290 

26 

0.0096 

76 

0.0298 

28 

0.0104 

78 

O.OSOf 

30 

0.0112 

80 

0.0314 

32 

0.0120 

82 

0.0323 

34 

0.0128 

84 

0.0331 

36 

0.0137 

86 

0.0339 

38 

0.0145 

88 

0.0347 

40 

0.0153 

90 

0.0355 

42 

0.O161 

92 

U.U36^ 

44 

0.0169 

94 

0.0371 

46 

0.0177 

96 

0.C379 

48 

0.0185 

98 

0.0387 

50 

0.0193 

100 

0.0395 

52 

0.0201 

102 

0.0403 

54 

0.0209 

104 

0.0411 

56 

0.0217 

106 

0.0419 

58 

O.0225 

108 

0.0427 

60 

0.0233 

110 

0.0435 

62 

0.0241 

112 

0.0443 

64 

0.0250 

114 

0.0461 

66 

0.02SS 

116 

O.OiM 

68 

0.0266 

118 

0.0467 

120 

0.0476 

122 

0.0483 

124 

0.0491 

METHOD  OF  FINDING  COST 

ILLUSTRATED. 

Possibly  an  illustration  of  the  meth- 
od as  used  on  a  fancy  fabric  may 
make  the  process  of  finding  the  cost 
more  evident.  An  oidinary  fancy 
cloth  which  is  sold  in  large  quanti- 
ties is  the  one  which  contains  64 
threads  and  72  picks  per  inch.  It  is 
34  inches  wide  in  the  grey  state  and 
weighs  about  6.30  yards  per  pound. 
This  cloth  is  made  from  combed  yarn 
and  is  used  extensively  in  piece  mer- 
cerization.  As  previously  explained 
64  threads  plus  72  picks  equals  136, 
the  total  threads  per  inch.  Then  we 
have  136  times  34  in;;hes  cloth  width 
equals  4,624  yards  of  yarn  per  yard 
of  cloth,  not  including  the  take-up  in 
weaving.  As  previously  noted,  10  per 
cent  is  a  fair  average  for  this  take-up, 
4,624  divided  by  .9  equals  5,138  total 
yards  of  yarn  per  yard  of  cloth.  5,138 
times  6.30  yards  per  pound  equals 
32.369  yards  of  yarn  per  pound.  To 
find  the  size,  this  number  of  yards 
should  be  divided  by  840,  the  stand- 
ard for  number  1  yarn.  Then  we  have 
32,369  yards  divided  by  840  standard 
equals  38.1,  the  average  size  of  yarn 
in  the  cloth. 


114 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


By  referring  to  the  table  for  yam 

costs  we  find  that  the  average  price 
of  combed  38s-l  yarn  is  27.04  cents 
per  pound.  As  this  fabric  contains 
6.30  yards  per  pound  the  weight  per 
yard  is  1.0000  divided  by  6.30  or  .159, 
die  weight  of  the  cloth  per  yard. 
Then  we  have  27.04  cents  times  .159 
equals  4.30  cents,  the  cost  of  the  ma- 
lerial  per  yard  of  cloth.  Again,  re- 
ferring to  the  table  of  weaving  cost, 
we  will  find  that  the  total  expense 
and  labor  for  a  72-pick  fancy  cloth 
2.82  cents,  so  4.30  cents  plus  2,82 
cents  equals  7.12  cents,  the  total  cost 
of  producing  this  fancy  fabric.  To- 
day's quoted  price  for  the  above  cloth 


production  care  must  be  taken  to 
make  the  estimates  low  enough  to 
cover  all  conditions,  that  is,  a  labrit? 
might  average  85  per  cent  production 
after  the  loom  was  started,  but,  due 
to  certain  circumstances,  much  time 
'iaht  be  lost  in  getting  the  warps 
into  the  looms,  so  that  for  six 
months'  or  a  year's  time  the  actual 
average  percentage  of  production 
might  be  nearer  75  per  cent,  and  as 
a  loom  does  not  earn  profits  when 
standing  idle,  only  actual  percent- 
ages are  of  value.  This  policy  has 
been  observed  in  the  various  costs 
which  we  have  presented  in  the  ta- 
bles. 


Sample  of  Cloth  for  Which  the  Cost    Is  Given. 


is  8§  cents,  so  the  difference  between 
the  cost  of  making  and  the  Belling 
price  represents  the  net  mill  profit. 
8.625  cents  minus  7.12  cents  equals  1.- 
505  cents  profit  per  yard.  This  is 
practically  li  cents  per  yard,  and 
assuming  a  normal  percentage  of 
production  for  the  iabric  being  con- 
sidered, the  profit  per  loom  per  week 
would  be  about  $2.25.  or  per  year 
about  $117.  This  should  give  a  net 
profit  to  a  mill  of  anywhere  from  12i 
to   15   per  cent. 

Prices  are  somewhat  higher  to-day 
than  thpy  have  been  for  all  kinds  of 
fancy  cloths,  but  most  of  these  fab- 
rics are  now  showing  very  good  mar- 
e;ins   of  profit.     In    assuming  a  loom 


COST  OF  CLOTH  CONTAINING 
FAST  COLORS. 

Probably    the    greatest   increase    in 
any  one  line  of  fabrics  has  been  that 
which  applies  to  grey  cloths  in  which 
varus   fast    to   the    bleaching   process 
are  being  used,  and,  inasmuch  as  a 
htill  greater  use  is  imminent,  it  may 
be  well  to   give  a  method   of  obtain- 
ing  this   cost.     For   such   fabrics  the 
average  size  of  yarn  can  be  obtained 
•ist  as  in  the  other  samples  we  have 
onsidered.     When    the     threads    are 
'eing  counted  the  number  of  colored 
breads   per   pattern   can   also  be   ob- 
tained, and   by  measuring  the  width 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Hi 


of  the  pattern  and  finding  the  repeats 
of  the  pattern  in  the  cloth  the  total 
colortd  threads  in  the  warp  or  filling 
(.an    be   obtained. 

When  the  total  number  of  colored 
Matitds  are  known,  it  is  easj'  enough 
to  find  the  percentage  of  the  total 
cloih  weights,  at  least  approximately, 
which  they  form.  By  adding  18 
cents  as  an  average  cost  for  dyeing 
fast  colors  per  pound  to  the  cost  of 
the  regular  yarn  and  then  multiply- 
ing by  the  two  weights  (that  of  the 
grey  warp  and  that  of  the  colored) 
the  cost  can  be  determined.  An  Il- 
lustration will,  without  doubt,  make 
the  process  clear  enough  so  that  it 
can  be  generally  understood.  The 
cloth  illustrated  is  made  on  a  fancy 
loom.  It  is  33  inches  wide  in  the 
grey  state,  or  as  it  comes  from  the 
I'Oom,  and  the  stripes  are  1  8-lfl  inches 
wide.  Then  33  inches,  the  cloth 
width,  divided  by  1  8-10  inches,  the 
width  of  the  stripe,  equals  18  colored 
stripes  in  the  cloth  width.  The  fab- 
ric weighs  when  woven  about  6.00 
yards  per  pound.  The  following  fig- 
ures should  make  the  results  readily 
understood: 

Warp  count.  95  (over  all). 

FilMng    count.    80. 

95    +    80   =    175.    total    cloth    count   per    Inch. 

175   X    33"    cloth    width    =   5.775   yards    of   yam 

per  yard  of  cloth   without  take-up. 
18    stripes    X    14    colored    ends    =    252    colored 

ends  In   fabric. 
252   -r-   5.77b  =   4.36%   of   color   In   fabric. 
10%    take-up    In    weaving. 
5,775    -^    .9    =    6.417,    total    yards    of    yam    per 

yard    of    cloth. 
6,417    X    6.00    yards    per    lb.    =   38,502   yards    of 

vf>rn    per    lb. 
38.502     -?-     840    standard     =     46/1,     average 

yam    size. 
1.0000   H-   6.00  yards  per   lb.   =  .167,    weight  per 

yard. 
.167   X   .0436  =  .on,   weight  of  colored  yarn. 
.167  —  .007  =  .160,   weight  of  grey  yarn. 
51.51c.    per    lb.    X    .160    =    5.04c.,    cost    of    btpn 

varn 
31.51c.    +    18c.    =  49.51c.,    cost   or   colored   yarn 

ppr  lb. 
49.510.    X   .007  =  .35c.,   co^^t  of  colored  yarn. 
Wpaving  cost  =  3.14c.    (from   tabled. 
.'i.n4c.    +    .350.    4-    3.14c.    =   8.53c.,    total    cost    of 

cloth    as    Illustrated. 


CREPE  RATINE  NOVELTY 

We  have  at  various  times  called 
attention  to  the  fact  that  there  has 
been  a  great  Improvement  in  the 
stylef?    and    quality    of    the    various 


fancy  fabrics  which  are  being  pro- 
duced in  domestic  mills.  These  fab- 
rics have  been  growing  in  favor  very 
fast,  and  the  prices  which  are  being 
obtained  for  them  are  much  greater 
than  was  ever  thought  possible  only 
a  few  years  ago;  in  fact,  there  ar^ 
many  instances  wherein  cotton  fab- 
rics seem  to  be  displacing  certain 
kinds  of  worsted  materials.  This  has 
resulted  because  of  changes  ir.  living 
conditions,  and  it  is  very  likely  that 
such  changes  will  be  even  more  no- 
ticeable in  the  future  than  they  have 
up  to  the  present. 

Inasmuch  as  higher  prices  have 
been  cctainable,  this  fact  has  per- 
mitted manufacturers  to  produce  fab- 
rics which  they  formerly  could 
not  make,  and  has  resulted  in  quite 
a  little  change  in  manufacturing  con- 
ditions. At  present,  the  tendency  ap- 
pears to  be  to  order  quite  a  number 
of  styles  from  a  mill,  but  comparative- 
ly small  quantities,  while  previously 
fewer  styles  were  purchased  with  larg- 
er quantities  of  each  individual 
fabric.  Naturally,  such  buying 
conditions  have  made  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction increase  at  the  mill  and  have 
created  other  difficulties  for  the  man- 
ufacturers, but  it  seems  as  if  such 
conditions  must  be  accepted  by  the 
manufacturers  and  surmounted  in 
the  best  way  possible. 

We  have  also  called  attention  to  the 
fact  that  the  three  styles  of  cloth 
which  seem  to  be  in  greatest  demand 
are  those  produced  from 

NOVELTY  YARNS, 
and  which  are  generally  known  as  ra- 
tings or  eponges,  and  also  the  fab- 
rics known  as  crepes  and  voiles.  All 
these  fabrics  represent  methods  of 
manufacturing  which  are  unusual,  in 
that  they  are  different  from  ordinary 
manufacturing  in  certain  respects. 
Ratings  or  eponges  from  the  nature 
of  the  yarn  used  are  a  comparative- 
ly heavy-weight  fabric  when  com- 
pared with  most  lines  of  cotton  cloths, 
while  crepes  and  voiles  are  rela- 
tively light  fabrics. 

Naturally,  one  would  hardly  expect 
these  ideas  io  be  used  In  combina- 
tions, nevertheless,  many  of  the  fab- 
rics which  are  being  produced  for  next 
spring's  sale  have  all  of  these  ideas,  or 


116 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


some  of  them,  in  combination,  or  at 
least  they  contain  methods  by  which 
these  effects  are  produced.  Such 
fabrics  as  those  illustrated  and  de- 
scribed are  used  for  dresses,  waists 
and  many  other  similar  purposes 
where  a  light-weight  fabric  can  be 
satisfactorily  used  and  where  con- 
sumers desire  to  use  something  which 
expresses  the  latest  ideas  in  fabric 
construction. 

PRODUCES    CREPE   EFFECT. 

Some   time   ago,   fabrics   were  pro- 
duced   which    were    generally    known 


rather  indistinguishable,  so    that    no 
definite  pattern  can  be  noted. 

The  voile  effect  is  produced  through 
the  extra  twist  which  is  inserted  in 
the  filling,  and  in  certain  instances  in 
the  warp,  although  this  extra  twist  is 
not  as  great  as  when  a  real  voile 
cloth  is  being  produced.  In  a  good 
many  instances  the  standard  of  twist 
for  such  fabrics  for  the  filling  was 
about  the  same  as  for  warp,  namely, 
4%  times  the  square  root  of  the  yarn 
size  in  turns  per  inch.  Because  the 
yarns  used  are  single  instead  of  two- 
ply,  as  in  ordinary  voiles,  the  effect 


^S,  Siiii;i 


Crepe  Ratine  Novelty. 


as  crepe  voiles.  These  cloths  were 
neither  a  crepe  nor  a  voile,  but  they 
had  some  of  the  characteristics  of 
both  fabrics.  The  method  of  produc- 
tion consisted  in  using  a  compara- 
tively fine  single  yarn  in  most  cases, 
but  with  a  slightly  greater  amount 
of  twist  than  usual  and  a  weave  was 
used  of  an  uneven  character  which 
produced  a  sort  of  irregular  or  crepy 
impression  in  the  fabric.  Most  of 
these  fabrics  were  made  of  medium 
or  fine  yarns  and  when  any  weave 
is  applied  to  such  a  fabric  it  does 
not  show  prominently,  because  of  the 
fine  character  of  the  yarns.  This 
condition  helps  a  great  deal  in  per- 
mitting a  crepy  effect  to  be  produced, 
t^nd    still    ftllows    the    we^ve    to    be 


produced  is  not  as  clear  as  in  most 
voiles,  but  nevertheless,  there  is  that 
crisp  condition  noted  in  voiles  together 
with  a  moderate  amount  of  openness. 
Such  fabrics  usually  have  a  rather  low 
construction  in  threads  and  picks  per 
inch,  although  is  it  usually  higher  than 
for  most  ordinary  voiles.  In  a  good 
many  instances  where  such  fabrics 
are  produced  no  extra  twist  is  in- 
serted in  either  yarn,  the  weave  alone 
making  the  crepy  effect,  although  in 
the  representative  fabrics  a  certain 
amount  of  extra  twist  is  used. 
Inasmuch  as  these 

CREPE   VOILES 

have  had,  and  are  having  quite  a  large 
sale,  the  idea  is  still  being  used,  but 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


117 


because  novelty  yarn  fabrics  have 
been  especially  desirable,  many  of 
the  newer  fabrics  contain  various 
kinds  of  novelty  yarn  in  stripes  and 
checks,  thus  adding  quite  a  little  to 
the  attractiveness  of  the  material  and 
making  them  more  desirable  when 
the  style  is  considered.  Possibly 
there  are  more  of  such  fabrics  being 
developed  for  another  season's  use 
than  any  other  one  idea  excepting  the 
entire  novelty  yarn  fabric,  generally 
known  as  ratine.  With  such  large 
quantities  being  produced  it  is  very 
easy  to  believe  that  prices  will  de- 
cline appreciably  before  another  sum- 
mer is  over. 

AN  ORDINARY  PRODUCT. 

One  of  the  interesting  features  re- 
garding the  present  large  production 
of  novelty  yarn  fabrics  is  that  only 
about  two  years  ago  it  was  generally 
claimed  by  most  mill  men  and  others 
that  these  novelty  yarn  fabrics  could 
not  be  produced  in  domestic  mills, 
because  the  machinery  was  not  suit- 
able. Such  an  idea  has  been  proven 
to  be  entirely  false,  inasmuch  as  prac- 
tically every  mill  in  the  country  to- 
day which  pretends  to  make  any 
kind  of  novelty  cloth,  and  many  which 
have  formerly  made  nothing  but 
plain  material,  are  now  producing 
goods  containing  certain  kinds  of 
these  novelty  yarns.  It  is  admitted 
that  certain  of  these  novelty  yarns 
require  special  machinery  for  their 
production,  but  not  many  of  such 
yarns  are  being  used,  and  without 
doubt,  mill  men  have  learned  more 
about  yarn  combinations  and  the 
production  of  novelty  results  in  the 
past  year  than  they  learned  in  the  pre- 
ceding decade.  Many  of  these  nov- 
elty yarns  are  produced  through  the 
twisting  of  various  sizes  of  single 
yarns. 

In  the  fabric  under  discussion  the 
novelty  yarn  is  produced  throueh  the 
twisting  of  three  •'breads  of  two-ply 
yarns.  In  the  first  twistine  opera- 
tion two  ends  of  approvirrately  18s-2 
varn  ai"e  twisted  tosrether,  these  be- 
ing delivered  at  different  sneeds.  In 
a  second  twisting  operation,  in 
the  reverse  direction,  this  frst  twist- 
ed varn  is  again  twisted  with  a 
Blngle   end   of  60s-2.    Because  of  the 


use  of  two-ply  yarns,  the  resulting 
novelty  material  does  not  contain  as 
decided  loops  as  many  of  the  ordi- 
nary novelty  yarns,  being  some- 
what similar  to  many  of  the 
ordinary  corkscrew  yarns,  although  it 
is  not,  strictly  speaking,  such  a  prod- 
uct. The  heavy  two-ply  yarns  are 
made  form  carded  material,  while  the 
fine  two-ply  yarn  used  in  the  second 
twisting  operation  is  made  from 
combed  stock. 

The  heavy  nature  of  this  novelty 
yarn  shows  quite  a  contrast  to  the 
rest  of  the  fabrics,  and  this  is  one  rea- 
son why  the  use  of  novelty  yams 
seems  so  desirable,  inasmuch  as  it 
offers 

OPPORTUNITIES  IN  CONTRASTING 

effects  not  formerly  possible  in  any 
great  number.  This  fabric  has  in  ad- 
dition to  the  stripes  of  novelty  yarn 
a  satin  stripe  of  an  ordinary  charac- 
ter. This  is  produced  through  the 
crowding  of  ends  in  a  few  dents, 
these  ends  weaving  in  a  regular  satin 
manner  and  showing  a  contrast  to 
the  ground  work  of  the  fabric.  Ordi- 
narily, the  weave  which  is  used  on  the 
ground  cloth  to  produce  the  crepe  ef- 
fect is  made  upon  either  12  or  16 
harnesses.  Sometimes  it  is  rather  dif- 
ficult to  produce  a  weave  of  this 
nature,  in  which  there  are  no  streaks 
either  in  the  warp  or  filling.  The  use 
of  stripes  in  a  pattern  will  often  elim- 
inate any  trouble  of  this  nature,  in- 
asmuch as  it  breaks  up  the  ground 
weave  and  does  not  make  the  weave 
defects  so  prominent. 

A  fabric  of  the  character  described 
cannot  be  produced  in  an  ordinary 
plain  cloth  mill,  because  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  quite  a  number  of  har- 
nesses in  its  production.  Naturally, 
looms  must  be  available  with  these 
harnesses,  so  that  for  this  reason  a 
fancy  cloth  mill  would  have  to  pro- 
duce the  material.  In  addition,  the 
wide  variety  in  yarn  sizes  would  not 
be  possible  in  a  plain  cloth  mill  un- 
less the  yarns  were  purchased,  and  to 
get  yarns  of  this  character,  at 
the  present  time,  is  likely  to  elimi- 
nate the  possibility  of  obtaining  the 
very  satisfactory  profits  which  can  be 
secured     from     such     cloth     making. 


118 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Certain  of  these  fabrics  are  also 
woven  with  a  jacquard  weave  and 
naturally  this  makes  it  necessary  for 
them  to  be  produced  in  a  fancy  mill 

There  are  also  a  few  mills  in  the 
domestic  market  which  produce  card- 
ed and  combed  work,  although  not 
prepared  to  make  fancy  materials. 
The  satin  stripes  in  a  fabric  of  this 
character  are  sometimes  placed  upon 
a  separate  beam,  although  in  other  in- 
stances the  stripe  yarn  is  placed  on 
the  same  beam  as  the  yarn  producing 
the  ground  work  of  the  fabric. 
Whether  these  threads  can  be  placed 
on  the  same  beam  as  the  ground  yarn 
is  largely  a  matter  of  experience  and 
judgment.  Usually,  this  method  can 
be  adopted  if  the  threads  are  placed 
corref;tly  in  the  reed.  When  they  can 
be  placed  upon  one  beam  it  ctids  in 
reducing  the  cost  of  production  and 
makes  less  trouble  in  the  weave 
room. 

The  adoption  of  every  possible 
economy  when  making  suc;h  fabrics 
is  one  reason  why  the  profits  of  some 
mills  are  higher  than  others.  In 
making  fabrics  of  this  character,  the 
orders  are  smaller  than  when  staple 
lines  are  being  produced,  therefore 
the  styling  and  sample  piece  expenses 
are  likely  to  be  greater  than  for  ordi- 
nary rabrics.  The  correct  adoption  of 
any  gocd  cloth  idea  and  the  use  of  it 
in  various  styles  usually  permits  good 
profits  to  be  secured. 

PRICES  SHOW  VARIATIONS. 
The  selling  prices  on  fabrics  of  this 
character  are  largely  determined  by 
the  market  conditions  which  exist. 
One  style  of  fabric  may  sell  for  ap- 
proximately 9  cents  a  yard  and 
a  very  similar  fabric  may  sell  for  11 
cents  a  yard,  the  difference  being 
brought  about  through  the  higher  cost 
of  production  in  one  case  and  the  ig- 
norance of  the  buyer  who  is  willing  to 
purchase  at  the  higher  price  through 
his  ability  to  dispose  of  it  at  a  sat- 
isfactory profit.  In  connection  with 
this  foregoing  statement,  it  may  be 
well  to  state  that  when  any  new  idea 
is  produced,  profits  arv3  usually  ex- 
cessive, not  only  because  the  idea  is 
desirable  and  in  demand,  but  also  be- 
cause buyers  have  no  idea  regarding 
relative  values   and   often   pay  much 


more  than  a  fabric  is  worth.  Recently 
on  certain  styles  of  novelty  yarn  fab 
rics  we  have  seen  exceptional  values 
in  fabrics  at  $1  a  yard  when  the 
cloths  were  first  shown,  and  in  com- 
parison other  fabrics  selling  at  twice 
as  much  did  not  seem  anywhere  near 
so  desirable,  neither  did  they  cost  as 
much  to  produce  when  the  selling 
price  was  considered.  The  same  thing 
is  noticed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent 
in  all  the  novelty  yarn  fabrics  being 
produced  to-day. 

Everyone,  through  extended  dis- 
cussions of  a  number  of  years  ago,  ob- 
tained the  idea  that  the  novelty  yarns 
used  are  very  expensive  to  make  and, 
therefore,  the  fabrics  in  which  they 
are  used  could  not  be  anything 
but  expensive;  and  for  this  reason 
a  buyer  Is  often  willing  to  pay  an  ex- 
cessive price  for  a  fabric,  througn  the 
fact  that  he  has  purchased  nothing  in 
the  past  on  which  a  comparison  can 
be  made  and  becaucc  he  knows  he  can 
sell  at  a  profit  he  does  not  consider 
the  purchasing  price. 

This  condition  will  gradually  dis- 
appear, bceause  the  demand  for  these 
fabrics  is  now  at  its  height  and  much 
greater  amounts  are  being  produced 
on  what  might  be  called  a  declining 
market.  Under  such  conditions  there 
will  be  much  more  opportunity  for 
comparison  by  buyers,  and  some  of 
the  fabrics  will  have  to  oe  soia  at 
low  prices,  for  it  is  not  believed  the 
consuming  public  will  absorb  the  great 
Quantity  of  such  fabrics  now  being 
produced. 

NOVELTY   YARN  FEATURES. 

The  main  feature  of  interest  in  a 
fabric  of  this  character  is  to  obtain 
correctly  the  various  amounts  of  ma- 
terials which  are  used  in  making  the 
novelty  yarns.  If  all  the  yarns  used 
in  making  this  product  are  purchaspd 
then  it  is  a  comparatively  simple 
matter  to  obtain  the  total  cost,  but 
where  various  other  features  are  in- 
volved such  as  tho  production  of  smgie 
yarns,  then  twisting  these  single  yarns, 
and  in  addition  two  other  twisting 
onerations  to  product;  the  novelty 
eff'^ct,  care  must  be  used  or  results 
will  not  be  correct.  It  Is  usually  a 
good  plan  to  cl  eck     up     the     actual 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


119 


weight  of  the  novelty  yarn  with  the 
figured  weight,  wliich  is  obtained 
through  the  sizes  of  the  various  yarns 
and  tlie  take-ups  noted  in  tlieir  twist- 
ing. If  tliis  is  done  tlie  correct  weiglits 
used  in  making  the  novelty  material 
can  be  obtained  and  results  will  be 
fairly  accurate.  In  the  yarn  used  in 
the  fabric  considered,  results  are  not 
so  difficult  to  obtain  as  they  would  be 
in  many  of  the  yarns  produced,  be- 
cause a  comparatively  large  portion  of 
the  yarn  is  produced  from  nothing 
but  18-2  yarns.  When  more  yarn 
sizes  are  used,  as  is  often  the  case, 
the  correct  result  is  more  difficult  to 
obtain,  although  the  method  used  is 
similar  to  that  employed  in  obtaining 
;,he  cost  of  the  yarn  considered. 
To  the 

COST  OF  THE  MATERIALS 

used  in  making  the  yarn  must  be  add- 
ed the  costs  and  expenses  of  the  two 
twisting  operations,  and  in  addition, 
there  must  be  a  sufficient  amount  al- 
lowed for  the  experimentation  which 
must  be  done  when  making  many  of 
these  yarns.  Usually  the  production 
of  many  of  these  yarns  is  quite  large 
in  pounds  per  week,  so  that  the  costs 
of  twisting  a"e  not  so  high  as  might 
be  imagined,  even  though  there  are 
two  twisting  operations  employed.  The 
mill  profit  on  many  of  these  goods 
is  quite  high  and  depends  a  good  deal 
upon  the  size  of  the  order  and  nat- 
urally unon  the  price  obtained.  The 
production  in  yards  per  day  or  per 
week  is  quite  large,  although  not 
nearly  so  large  as  when  ordinary 
plain  cloth  with  the  same  number  of 
picks    is    being    produced. 

The  present  fabric  selling  at  8^ 
cents  per  yard  should  net  many  of 
the  mills  producing  such  fabrics  a 
profit  of  at  least  15  per  cent,  and  it 
is  a  known  fact  that  many  of  these 
novelty  fabrics  have  been  produring 
returns  in  excess  of  25  per  cent.  The 
reason  mill  profits  have  not 
shown  these  facts  is  because  the  or- 
ders secured  have  not  been  suffi- 
cient to  operate  the  entire  equipment 
of  machinery  and  partly  because  fancy 
mills  contain  many  plain  looms  on 
which  there  has  been  no  profit  and 
in  some  cases  a  loss.    The  above  fig- 


ures are  merely  the  rates  of  protit 
which  would  be  noted  were  the  looms 
employed  as  fully  as  is  normally  pos- 
sible. 

WHITE    FABRICS   IN    FAVOR. 

From  the  cloth  plan  as  laid  out  it 
will  be  noted  that  this  fabric  falls  intf 
the  regular  25-cent  retailer  and  allows 
a  profit  slightly  in  excess  of  the  ordi- 
nary amounts  to  the  various  sellers. 
The  converter  should  be  securing  a 
profit  somewhat  higher  than  is  ordi- 
narily secured  on  fancy  cloths 
and  the  same  condition  is 
noted  in  regard  to  the  job- 
ber and  retailer.  When  such  cloths 
are  sold  direct  by  the  converter  to 
the  retailer  the  profits  secured  are 
naturally  much  higher  than  those 
given,  although  the  expenses  of  selling 
to  the  converter  are  somewhat  greater 
than  when  the  cloth  is  sold  to  the 
jobber.  The  filling  yarn  will  be  some- 
what more  expensive  than  when  ordi- 
nary filling  is  considered,  because  the 
production  is  not  quite  so  high,  due  to 
the  extra  amount  of  twist,  and  as  the 
production  decreases  the  cost 
increases.  It  will  be  noted  that 
50s-l  warp  costs  somewhat  more 
than  the  50s-l  filling  to  produce,  even 
though  the  standards  of  twist  are  ap- 
proximately  the   same. 

Due  to  the  decreased  han- 
dling, it  is  possible  and  cus- 
tomary to  use  a  shorter  sta- 
ple of  cotton  for  filling  than 
for  warp,  and  this  is  responsible  for 
a  large  part  of  the  difference  noted, 
although,  naturally,  the  warp  yarn 
carries  expenses  which  the  filling  does 
not  and  which  are  incurred  by  the 
extra  processes  necessary  in 
producing  the  warp  yarn.  A  good 
many  of  these  fabrics  are  sold  in  the 
white  state;  in  fact,  converters  gen- 
erally believe  that  white  fabrics  are 
increasing  in  demand  and  have  in- 
creased their  lines  of  such  materials 
for  the  coming  season.  There  are. 
however,  many  such  fabrics  which 
are  dyed  various  colors,  and  in  a  few 
instances,  printed  patterns  are 
employed.  In  addition  to  be- 
ing dyed,  many  of  these  fab- 
rics are  also  mercerized,  a  process 
which,  while  increasing  the  cost.  Is  re- 


126 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


sponsible  for  an  added  attractiveness 
that  makes  its  adoption  wortli  while. 
We  have  not  given  the  method  of  ob- 
taining the  novelty  yarn  size,  inasmuch 
as  we  have  previously  presented  such 
methods  on  certain  of  these  novelty 
yarns.  The  cost  of  the  yarn  is  ob- 
tained as  explained  in  previous  ar- 
ticles. Other  than  these  two  features 
the  method  of  obtaining  the  weights 
of  the  yam  and  the  cloth  is  no  differ- 
ent from  ordiLciry  fabrics  and  the 
process  is  a  simple  one  as  follows: 


1,870  ends   -i-    (50/1    X    840)    =  .0446,    weigh 

of  50/1   warp   without  take-up. 
6%    take-up  In  weaving. 
.0445    -H    .94    =    .0473,    total    weight    of    50/) 

per  vard  of  woven  cloth. 
80  ends  -f-    (3.3/1    X    840)    =  .0288,  weight  oi 

novelty    warp    without    take-up. 

2%    take-up   in    weaving. 
.0288   ^   .98   =  .0294,  total   weight  of  noveltj 

varn    per   yard    of    woven   cloth. 
64"picks  X  28%"  reed  width  X  36" 


36" 


=      1.824 


yards   of    filling  per   yard   of   cloth. 
1,824   -4-    (50/1    X    840)    =   .0434,   total  weight 

of    50/1   filling   per   yard    of   cloth. 
.0473    -I-   .0294    +  .0434   =   .1201,   total  weight 

per   yard    of    cloth. 
1.0000    -f-    .1201    =    8.33   yards  per   lb.    (grey). 


PATTERN. 
62  28  28 


52      =      1,870 
=  80 


50/1    Am.    combed   warp  52         2! 

3.3   novelty 

19X  1,950 

50/1  Am.  combed  filling   (warp  twist);    64   picks. 
32  reed,   28%"  width  In  reed,   27"  grey  width,   26"  finished  width. 

72    X    64   grey   count  over  all,    75    X    63    finished   count   over   all. 


YARNS. 

Cotton. 
50/1   Am.  combed,   1  5-16"  staple;   10  hank  dou.    rov.,  21c. 

50/1  Am.  combed  flll'g,   IVt"  sta. ;   12  hank  dou.   rov.,  19c. 

Novelty  (4  ends  18/1,  2  ends  60/1),  total  cost  including  twisting 


Ijabor, 
waste,  etc. 
16  %c. 
15%c. 


37%c 
34%c 
29%c. 


COST. 

i,870   ends   60/1   Am.    combed    -f    6%    take-up =   .0473    @    37%c.      =  $  .017S- 

80   ends  3.3  novelty   +    2%   take-up =   .0294    @    29140.      =  .0086 

64   picks  50/1   Am.   combed,  warp  twist =   .0434    @    34 %c.      =  .0150 

Weaving     .0108 

Expenses    .0132 

$  .0654 
Selling    (grey) 0015 

Mill    cost    (grey) $  .0669 

Mill    selling   price    (approximate) .0825 

Finishing     0150 

Cost  to  converter   (not  Including  expenses) $  .0975 

Cost   to  jobber    .1300 

Cost  to   retailer    .1700 

Cost  to  consumer   .2500 

Yards  per  pound  8.33   (grey). 


MERCERIZED  DRAPERY 
NOVELTY 

Possibly  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing portions  of  the  cotton  cloth  in- 
dustry, but  one  which  is  not  very 
often  commented  upon,  mainly  be- 
cause the  producing  units  are  rather 
small  and  few  when  compared  with 
those  making  staples  and  even  fan- 
cies, is  that  portion  which  produces 
various  drapery,  upholstery  and  sim- 
ilar fabrics.  Due  to  the  use  of  better 
dyes  and  the  production  of  more  de- 
sirable and  harmonious  effects,  these 


materials  have  been  increasing 
in  sale  and  are  being  used  for  pur- 
poses where  they  previously  were 
considered  unsuitable.  In  a  general 
way,  such  fabrics  are  made  from 
dyed  yarns  and  are  heavy  in  weight 
when  compared  with  most  lines  of 
cotton  fabrics.  The  selling  prices  are 
high  because  the  cloth  contains  so 
much  material  per  yard  and  also  be- 
cause the  quantities  sold  are  rather 
small,  thus  making  distribution 
charges  large  and  the  costs  of  pro- 
duction greater  than  would  otherwise 
be   noted. 

That  the  changes  of  style  in  dress 
goods  do  have  a  widw  influence  upon 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


121 


various  fabrics  is  not  often  recogniz- 
ed by  many  sellers,  but  it  is  clearly 
shown  by  the  style  of  fabric  we  have 
analyzed  and  which  is  illustrative  of 
some  of  the  leading  fabrics  which 
have  been  produced  for  drapery  pur- 
poses. It  is  a  well  known  fact  that 
novelty  yarn  effects  have  been  the 
leading  styles  in  dress  goods  and 
have  been  adapted  in  various  methods 
for  use  with  such  ground  fabrics 
as  voiles,  crepes,  curtain  materials, 
light  waistings  and  other  widely 
varying  constructions,  and  so  it  is 
natural  to  expect  the  same  influence 
to  be  noted  in  draperies.     Of  course 


yarn.  It  is  seldom  that  there  is  less 
than  twice  as  many  threads  per  inch 
in  the  warp  than  there  is  in  the  fill- 
ing, usually  a  much  higher  ratio  than 
that  named,  and  for  draperies  the 
warp  size  is  usually  twice  or  more 
than  twice  as  fine  as  the  filling.  In 
the  cloth  analyzed  the  count  is  100  x 
17  and  the  yarn  sizes  used  are  rela- 
tively 30-1  and  3.8-1.  The  weave  is, 
in  the  majority  of  instances,  plain, 
inasmuch  as  more  firmness  is  se- 
cured through  such  use  and  there  is 
not  the  great  necessity  for  woven  fig- 
ures which  there  is  in  many  styles  of 
dress   goods,   although  this   statement 


Domestic    Mercerized    Drapery. 


the  possibilities  in  the  use  of  novelty 
yarns  for  drapery  fabrics  are  rather 
limited  for  various  reasons,  but  it  is 
usually  desirable  to  produce  new  ef- 
fects when  they  can  be  cleverly  exe- 
cuted and  when  they  will  aid  in  the 
distribution  of  any  fabric. 


CLOTH    CONSTRUCTION. 
One     of     the     processes     which 


is 


used  extensively  in  making  ordinary 
drapery  fabrics  is  the  poplin  con- 
struction. This  is  a  method  by  which 
the  warp  contains  a  comparatively 
large  number  of  threads  per  inch  of 
rather  fine  yarn  and  usually  of  a  ply 
nature,  while  the  filling  contains  a 
small  number  of  picks  of  coarse  ply 


does  not  indicate  that  figures  are  not 
sometimes   applied. 

Ply  yarns  are  used  in  making  such 
fabrics  for  a  number  of  reasons. 
First,  they  allow  coarser  yarn  num- 
bers to  be  made  so  that  heavier  fab- 
rics result.  Second,  they  permit  a 
greater  amount  of  strength  and  serv- 
ice to  be  secured  together  with  a 
clearer  result,  which  is  desirable  in 
draperies.  Third,  they  allow  many 
mercerized  yarns  to  be  used,  thus 
giving  the  material  a  luster  not  ob- 
tainable when  single  yarns  are  em- 
ployed. Soft  twist  is  necessary  for 
any  good  mercerized  results,  either  In 
yarn  or  cloth,  and  for  this  reason  soft 
twist  ply  yam  Is  often  used. 


122 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


In  a  poplin  construction  the 
large  excess  of  warp  has  a  tend- 
ency to  cover  up  the  filling  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent,  and  under 
such  circumstances  the  quality  of 
the  filling  yarn  is  not  of  such  great 
importance  as  the  warp,  and,  in  ad- 
dition, the  fabric  pattern,  if  made  by 
colors,  must  be  produced  by  the 
warp  yarns.  In  the  cloth  considered 
the  ribs  of  the  ordinary  poplin  cloth 
are  noticeable,  but  these  ribs  are 
made  irregular  through  the  variation 
in  the  size  of  the  filling  yarn.  The 
warp  covers  up  the  filling  just  about 
as  effectively  in  the  heavy  portions 
as  it  does  in  the  finer  portions,  but, 
nevertheless,  the  irregular  filling 
yarn  produces  a  noticeable  irregular 
effect  in  the  cloth  and  this  shows 
that  a  great  deal  of  ingenuity  has 
been  used  in  the  planning  of  the 
cloth  construction.  Many  of  the  nov- 
elty loop,  corkscrew,  and  nub  yarns 
would  not  have  been  suitable  for  the 
style  of  cloth  considered,  and  the 
fact  that  the  right  yarn  has  been  used 
is  worthy  of  mention.  The  same  pop- 
lin constructions  which  are  used  for 
draperies  are  often  used  for  other  pur- 
poses; in  fact,  in  many  instances, 
fabrics  are  intended  for  a  number  of 
different  uses  when  their  production 
is  planned. 

NOVELTY    YARN   MAKING. 

We  have  at  various  times  described 
the  processes  by  which  certain  of  the 
novelty  yarns  now  being  extensively 
used  are  produced,  but  inasmuch  as 
the  yarn  used  in  this  cloth  differs 
essentially  from  those  previously  de- 
scribed a  short  explanation  may  be 
of  value.  Certain  classes  of  cloths, 
such  as  cotton  flannels,  regularly 
contain  yarns  of  the  character  used 
In  this  fabric,  and  while  the  yarn 
sizes  may  vary  somewhat,  the  method 
of  production  is  practically  identical. 
In  the  first  place,  the  novelty  result 
is  produced  from  a  number  of  strands 
of  yarn  and  bunches  of  loose  cotton 
twisted  together,  the  bunches  of  cot- 
ton being  spaced  at  intervals  in  the 
completed  yarn.  The  loose  cotton 
neressarllv  has  to  ho  in  a  condition 
capable  of  being  handled  and  the 
fibres  must  be  comparatively  parallel 
80  as  to  give  some  strength  together 


with  a  uniform  size  of  bunch  when 
the   yarn   is    being   made. 

There  are  a  number  of  different  re- 
sults which  can  be  produced.  First, 
the  whoie  yam  can  be  made  from 
stock-dyed  cotton  with  the  bunches 
of  one  color  and  the  ground  threads 
of  the  same  or  another  color.  Sec 
ond,  the  ground  yarns  can  be  spun 
in  the  grey  state  and  then  dyed  and 
used  with  stock-dyed  cotton  of  the 
same  or  a  different  color.  Third,  the 
whole  yarn  can  be  made  from  grey 
yarns  and  grey  cotton,  and  this  result 
afterward  dyed,  although  solid  colors 
only  are  possible  by  this  method. 
Naturally,  in  the  first  two  processes 
the  ground  yarns  can  be  of  different 
colors,  and  bleached  yarns  and  cot- 
tons are  just  as  possible  as  dyed 
ones.  We  are  not  considering  the 
similar  yarns  containing  bunches  of 
cotton  which  are  made  by  two  twist- 
ing processes,  the  second  twisting 
being  mainly  for  the  purpose  of  bina- 
ing  in  the  bunch  of  cotton  more 
firmly.  This  extra  twisting  process 
is  adopted  when  such  yarn  is  used 
for  warp  and  is  to  be  handled  ex- 
tensively and  is  not  so  generally  om- 
ployed  when  it  is  used  tor  tilling. 

One  of  the   main   considerations   in 

PRODUCING    NOVELTY    YARN 

such  as  that  used  is  to  have  the  cot- 
ton bunches  taper  off  well,  inasmuch 
as  this  gives  a  better  appearance  and 
also  aids  in  producing  firmness,  in- 
asmuch as  the  tapering  end  of  the 
cotton  fibres  twists  in  better  with  the 
ground  threads.  This  variety  of 
yarns  is  often  produced  on  an  ordi- 
nary spinning  frame,  in  fact,  it  is 
probable  that  much  the  largest  share 
of  it  is  produced  in  this  manner.  One 
set  of  rolls  is  given  an  intermittent 
motion  through  the  removal  of  gear 
teeth  or  in  some  other  manner.  Be- 
tween these  rolls  is  placed  the  roving 
which  forms  the  bunch  in  the  com- 
pleted yarn.  Naturally  the  intermit- 
tent motion  of  the  rolls  feeds  the  cot- 
ton out  at  regular  intervals.  Be- 
tween another  set  of  rolls,  w-hich  op- 
erate regularly,  are  placed  the  .two 
ground  threads,  it  being  desirable  to 
have  the  cotton  bunch  fed  out  be- 
tween these  two  ends  as  the  twist  is 
being  inserted,  and  this  method  per- 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


1S8 


tnits  ine  coiion  lo  be  bound  In  more 
rtimly. 

The  continuous  delivery  of  the 
ground  threads,  togetlier  with  the  in- 
termittent delivery  ot  the  soft  cotton 
or  roving,  creates  a  ply  yarn  in  which 
bunches  of  cotton  are  twisted.  The 
twist  in  any  yarn  will  run  to  the 
finest  portions,  and  this  happens  very 
noticeably  in  yarn  of  the  character 
described,  there  being  quite  a  little 
twist  where  the  ground  yarns  only 
appear  and  very  few  turns  per  inch 
at  the  point  where  the  cotton  bunch 
is  inserted.     For  this  reason  the 

AMOUNT  OF  TWIST 
which  the  whole  product  contains  will 
be  much  different  than  that  which 
the  ground  yarns  would  contain  were 
they  to  be  twisted  separately.  The 
size  of  the  cotton  bunch,  the  char- 
acter of  the  result  desired,  whether 
there  is  to  be  a  subsequent  twisting 
process,  the  kind  of  yarns  used  and 
naturally  the  yarn  sizes,  together 
with  certain  other  features,  regulate 
the  number  of  turns  per  inch  which 
are  necessary  or   desirable. 

In  the  yarn  considered  there  are 
approximately  ten  turns  per  inch  av- 
erage, and  this  is  what  should  be 
considered  when  twist  gears  are  be- 
ing considered,  although  the  regular 
ply  portion  of  the  material  contains 
a  greater  number  of  turns  per  inch. 
In  a  good  many  cases  novelty  yarns, 
such  as  that  described,  can  be  spun 
direct  upon  the  bobbins  which  are 
used  in  the  weave  room,  thereby  mak- 
ing no  other  processes  necessary  and 
reducing  the  cost  of  production  quite 
extensively. 

There  are  certain  features  which 
are  of  interest  in  connection  with  the 
making  of  high-class  drapery  and  up- 
holstery fabrics.  Mills  making  these 
materials,  'as  previously  stated,  are 
somewhat  limited  in  the  amounts  of 
any  one  style  which  they  can  pro- 
duce. This  makes  frequent  changes 
in  cloth  construction  necessary  in  or- 
der to  obtain  a  good  distribution,  es- 
pecially where  high-class  merchan- 
dise is  being  produced.  Not  only  are 
various  yarn  sizes  required,  but  the 
colors  are  usually  even  more  nu- 
merous than  the  variety  of  yarns.  In- 
asmuch   as    the     orders     are     rather 


small,  the  quantities  of  'any  one  yam 
size  used  are  proportionate,  and  for 
this  reason  it  is  probably  cheaper  to 
purchase  yarn  than  it  is  to  'make  it. 
For  such  yarn  to  be  produced  in  a 
wide  diversity  of  sizes  a  varied  or- 
ganization would  be  required,  with 
the  probabilities  of  machinery  being 
idle  at  least  a  portion  of  the  time. 

The  grey  yarns  which  are 'purchas- 
ed are  dyed  and  often  mercerized  at 
the  plants  where  the  cloth  is  woven, 
and  this  method  of  '  manufacturing 
permits  quite  a  little  variation  in  the 
product.  Whatever  finishing  is  nec- 
essary is  also  accomplished  at  the 
plant  where 'the  weaving  is  done,  but 
inasmuch  as  dyed  yarns  are  generally 
used,  the  finishing  of  these  cloths  is 
a  much  more  simple  process  than 
when  grey  woven  cloths  are  consid- 
ered. Ihe  purchase  of  yarn  makes 
the  problem  of  manufacture  much 
more  complicated  than  if  yarns 
were  manufactured  and  has  much  to 
do  with  the  obtaining  of  satisfactory 
profits.  To  buy  yams  which  are  in 
good  demand  and  on  which  the  price 
and  profit  are  high  is  to  curtail  to  an 
extent 'at  least  the  possibility  of  prof- 
its in  the  manufacture  of  special  fab- 
rics. It  is  also  necessary  to  produce 
styles  which  cannot  be  made  success- 
fully in  the  larger  plants, 

Thus  it  can  be  depended  upon  that 
some  of  the  buyers  who  have  pur- 
chased solid  color  yarn-dyed  mercer- 
ized drapery  and  upholstery  fabrics 
will  soon  procure  such  materials  in 
the  grey  state  and  have  them  finished 
with  'a  large  reduction  in  price.  This 
applies  only  to  a  small  number  of 
fabrics  which  are  purchased  in  quan- 
tities and  not  for  the  majority  of  fab- 
rics which  are  used  for  drapery  pur- 
poses. Purchase  of  yam,  the  extra 
cost  of  shipping,  dyeing,  mercerizing 
and  various  other  necessary  process- 
es, make  the  cost  of  the  yam  when  it 
reaches  the  w^eave  room  high,  ana 
while  the  loom  production  is  large 
with  a  correspondingly  low  cost  'in 
this  direction,  the  total  cost  is  high 
because  of  the  materia'  which  Is 
used.  It  will  be  noted  that  we  have 
in  our  cost  plan  given  the  price  of  the 
yarn  used.  This  amount  will  vary 
according  to  the  market  and  to  other 


124 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


selling  conditions,  but  it  is  ap- 
proximately correct  for  the  cloth  con- 
sidered. Selling  charges  are  higher 
than  for  many  other  varieties  of  ma- 
terial, mainly  because  the  quantities 
sold  are  not  especially  large.  The 
rate  of 'profit  secured  would  depend  a 
good  deal  upon  the  attractiveness  of 
the  result  produced,  and  is  not  consid- 
ered upon  the  production  basis  which 
is  generally  used  when  large  quanti- 
ties of  any  ordinary  cloth  are  made. 

Without  doubt,  the  success  of  any 
concern  making  special  fabrics  is 
more  dependent  upon  a  single  person 
than  when  larger  quantities  of  staple 
materials  are  being  produced.  In  a 
small  industry  the  person  who  is  di- 
recting the  items  of  importance  has 
to  look  after  many  details  which  can 
be  relegated  to  other  persons  in  a 
large  concern.  The  styles  of  the 
cloth  are  of  great  importance,  as  this 
has  an  influence  on  the  sales  and 
profits.  Experience  is  necessary  as 
to  what  methods  should  be  used  in 
best  obtaining  any  certain  results. 
With  grey  and  most  of  the  staple  col- 
ored lines  a  certain  method  of  pro 
duction  can  be  adopted  and  continu 
ously  followed  out,  but  with  special 
fabrics  there  is  more  flexibility  in  thb 
method  of  production  and  the  adop- 
tion of  the  best  method  tends  to  keep 
down  the  costs  and  increase  the  prof- 
its. 

Then  there  are  numerous  other  fea- 
tures which  have  to  be  considered  by 
manufacturers  producing  special 
cloths,  such  as  the  colors  to  be  usea 
in  any  certain  lines,  the  method  by 
which  the  cloths  are  to  be  sold,  the 
amount  of  the  various  styles  to  be 
produced,  the  sale  of  styles  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  keep  all  the  machin- 
ery in  operation.  This  machinery 
problem  is  a  very  serious  one,  even 
with  fancy  grey  cloth  makers,  for  un- 
less the  orders  are  such  that  a  good 
balanced  production  is  secured  be- 
tween the  spinning  and  weaving  ma- 
chinery, and  unless  the  various  kinds 
of  looms  are  kept  steadily  employed, 
the  possibilities  of  good  profits  are 
largely  curtailed.  Because  there  are 
more  changes  in  styles  and  more  abil- 
ity necessary  in  producing  them  it 
Is  customary  for  the  salary  ranges  of 


employes  to  be  higher  when  such 
cloths  are  being  produced  than  for 
other  kinds  of  cloth  making.  It  is 
necessary  to  obtain  good  operatives 
and  what  is  more  to  keep  them,  if  a 
satisfactory   result   is   to   be   secured. 

One  of  the  fabrics  which  has  never 
been  produced  in  the  domestic  mar- 
ket until  recently,  but  for  which  there 
has  been  and  is  an  increasing  de- 
mand, is  tapestry  material,  which  is 
used  for  wall  decorations.  These  ma- 
terials are  used  to  cover  up  unde- 
sirable portions  of  wall,  and  in  many 
cases  are  used  because  of  desirablb 
patterns  or  colorings.  They  are  pro- 
duced from  dyed  yarns  and  the  com- 
bination of  yarn  and  weave  produces 
the  various  effects.  Without  doubt, 
the  making  of  large  effects  in  such 
cloths  is  one  of  the  most  complicated 
forms  of  textile  manufacture.  The 
placing  of  the  various  colors  and  fig- 
ures where  they  will  appear  best  is 
an  art,  and  makes  possible  results 
which  would  otherwise  be  considered 
impractical.  Many  colors  are  used 
in  the  warp,  and  the  same  is  true  re- 
garding the  filling. 

Oftentimes  the  warp  has  no  spe 
cial  pattern,  and  the  method  of  dress- 
ing varies  from  one  side  of  the  clotL 
to  the  other,  each  section  being  de- 
signed especially  for  the  result  to  be 
produced.  Jacquard  looms  are  used 
in  producing  these  cloths,  and,  due 
to  the  length  of  the  repeat  and  tue 
great  number  of  picks  in  the  filling,  a 

LARGE  NUMBER   OF   CARDS 

are  necessary  for  the  completion  of 
the  pattern.  It  sometimes  happens 
that  the  design  making  and  the  cards 
employed  alone  cost  $1,000  or  more, 
and  in  such  instances  the  productioi. 
cost  is  regulated  a  good  deal  by  the 
amount  of  the  tapestry  which  can  be 
sold.  When  the  sale  is  small,  the  de- 
sign cost  is  large  per  yard,  whereas 
when  quite  a  distribution  is  made 
this  item  is  of  much  less  importance, 
although  it  naturally  is  quite  high  in 
any  such  material. 

The  illustration  we  present  shows 
one  style  of  tapestry  which  is  pro- 
duced in  the  domestic  market,  and  it 
is  claimed  that  only  one  concern  does 
any   work   of    this    character.      That 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


126 


there  is  any  at  all  produced  shows 
that  there  has  been  a  great  deal  ol 
progress  in  the  manufacturing  ability 
of  domestic  producers,  and,  without 
doubt,  such  cloths  will  be  In  larger 
demand  with  a  greater  number  of 
sellers  producing  them  in  the  near 
future. 

YARN   AND  CLOTH   WEIGHTS. 

Regarding  the  yarn  and  cloth 
weights,  it  can  be  said  that  few  of 
such  materials  as  that  analyzed  are 
sold  by  the  count  or  weight  as  art 
many  of  the  fancy  dress  goods  which 
nave  a  large  distribution.  This  in- 
formation is  necessary  for  the  man- 
ufacturer in  order  to  ascertain  the 
cost  of  production,  but  such  informa- 
tion is  of  small  importance  to  the 
buyer,  inasmuch  as  he  is  more  inter- 
ested in  the  style  of  the  cloth  and 
the  prices  at  which  he  is  able  to  dis- 
tribute. Sometimes,  when  a  fabric  1& 
to  be  duplicated  it  is  necessary  to  ob- 
tain the  various  details  of  manufac- 
ture, but  in  this  connection  it  is  well 
to  remember  that  the  yarn  sizes  will 
not  be  the  same  as  when  they  wert 
purchased  or  spun. 


The  processes  of  mercerizatlon, 
dyeing  and  handling  are  likely  to  give 
results  somewhat  different  than  when 
the  yarns  were  originally  purchased. 
In  this  fabric,  the  warp  yarns  are 
somewhat  finer  than  when  purchased, 
but  not  to  as  great  an  extent  as  is 
noted  in  many  of  the  white  mercer- 
ized fabrics  which  are  piece  finished. 
An  interesting  feature  regarding  the 
manufacture  of  this  cloth  is  that,  due 
to  the  heavy  character  of  the  filling 
and  the  large  number  of  threads  per 
inch,  the  contraction  in  width  from 
reed  to  cloth  is  not  very  great,  being 
in  this  fabric  not  quite  one  inch  for  the 
whole  fabric.  Ordinarily,  it  is  much 
more  than  this  amount.  The  method 
of  obtaining  the  weights  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

5,000   ends   -j-    (60/2    X    840)    =   .1984.   weight 

of    warp    yarn    without    take-up. 
10%    take-up    in    weavinK. 
.1984    -4-    .9    =    .2204,    total    weight    of    warp 

yarn    per    yard    of    woven    cloth. 
17  picks  X  51"  reed  width  X  36" 

=    867   yards 

36" 

of   filling:   per   yard   of   woven   cloth. 
867    -4-     (3.8    novelty     X    840)     =    .2716,    total 

weight   of   filling   yarn   yer   yard   of   woven 

cloth. 
.2204     +     .2716     =    .4920,     total     weight     per 

yard. 
1.0000    -r-    .4920    =    2.03  yards   per   pound. 


MERCERIZED  DRAPERY  NOVEIiTY. 

tO/2  Am.  combed,   mercerized  and  dyed.     6,000  ends. 
3.8   novelty  yarn;   17   picks  per  inch. 
49   reed,   61"  width  in  reed,   50"  finished  width. 
100    X   17   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

60/2   Am.   combed,   mercerized  and  dyed    (cost  on  loom  beams) =     77c. 

3.8  novelty  carded,   dyed   (cost  on  quills) =     84c. 

CLOTH  COST. 

6,000  ends  60/2  Am.  combed   -|-    10%   take-up =   .2204   @   77c.     =   $  .1697 

17   picks   3.8   carded    novelty    =   .2716    @   34c.      =        .0923 

Weaving     0272 

Expenses     0152 

<  .3044 
Selling     0122 

Mill    cost    $.8166 

Yards  per  pound  2.03. 
Retail   price  $1.26  per  yard. 

*-»-*■ 


MOCK  LENO  WEAVE  CREPE 

At  various  times  we  have  analyzed 
and  described  certain  of  the  crepe 
fabrics  which  are  sold  in  large  quan- 
tities; and  because  these  fabrics  ap- 
pear attractive  and  are  selling  well  at 
present,  it  may  be  well  to  present  a 


description  of  a  special  crepe  which 
contains  features  radically  different 
from  most  of  those  produced  and  sold. 
Manufacturers  and  sellers  of  novelty 
fabrics  recognize  that  profits  are  ob- 
tained through  the  production  of  at- 
tractive styles  and  materials  which 
are  similar  to  a  certain  extent  to  those 
in   demand,   but   in   which   ideas   are 


116 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


developed  that  are  different  from 
what  the  majority  of  sellers  are  offer- 
ing. When  tabrics  of  this  character 
are  developed,  it  is  usually  possible 
to   obtain   a   comparatively 

HIGH   RATE   OF  DIVIDENDS, 

which  is  of  value  in  building  up  a 
reputation  for  attractive  fabrics  that 
produce  returns.  Of  course,  the  va- 
rious fancy  fabrics  being  produced 
to-day  are,  many  of  them,  adaptations 
of  the  so-called  ratine  efZects,  and 
crepe  grounds  contain  such  ideas  as 
well  as  other  good  selling  fabrics. 
Next  to  the  wide  range  of  ratine 
styles,  crepe  fabrics  appear  to  be  the 
leaders,  these  cloths  being  used  for 
dresses,  waists,  and  various  other 
uses  depending  somewhat  upon  their 
construction  and  appearance.  Certain 
of  such  styles  are  being  printed  to- 
day and  are  having  quite  a  distribu- 
tion, while  many  of  them  contain  silj 
stripes  on  which  jacquard  figures  are 
woven  or  which  in  some  manner  add 
a  certain  attractiveness  to  the  fin- 
ished result.  Crepe  fabrics  have  a 
characteristic  softness  which  is  not 
usual  in  other  materials,  and  do  not 
show  wrinkles  in  as  prominent  a 
manner  as  some  other  styles,  thereby 
making  them  have  a  certain  advan- 
tage so  far  as  appearance  is  con- 
cerned. 

CLOTH   CONSTRUCTION. 

Any  crepe  cloth  Is  usually  of  a 
rather  low  count  and  would  not  be 
considered  a  very  firm  construction 
when  compared  with  the  majority  of 
cotton  materials.  This  loose  con- 
struction is  rather  necessary,  for  un- 
less this  method  of  making  were 
adopted  there  would  be  no  great  op- 
portunity for  the  yarns  to  contract 
and  produce  the  crepe  effect.  In  the 
majority  of  instances  crepe  cloths  are 
made  with  single  yarns  and  few  of 
them  of  anything  like  a  fine  nature. 
The  ordinary  cheap  crepe  materials 
contain,  approximately,  yarn  which 
averages  about  25-1,  thoagh  the  finer 
varieties  naturally  are  made  from 
somewhat  finer  yarns.  In  the  fabrics 
which  are  usually  produced,  the  warp 
yarn  is  identical  or  nearly  so  with 
ordinary  warp  of  the  same  size,  that 
is,  the  standard  of  twist  is  the  stand- 


ard which  is  noted  for  ordinary  warp, 
namely,  about  4.75  times  the  square 
root  of  the  yarn  si/e.  The  ciepe  enect 
is  produced  through  the  tilling  yarn 
and  is  caused  by  the  introduction  of 
a  large  amount  of  extra  twist,  the 
standard  being  anywuere  from  6.50 
to  9  times  the  square  root  of  the  yarn 
size,  whereas  in  most  ordinary  filling 
the  standard  of  twist  is  seldom  over 
3.75  times  the  square  root  of  the  yarn 
size.     In   the  fabric  considered 

ONE  ITEM  OF  INTEREST 

is  found  in  that  the  yarns,  both  warp 
and  filling,  are  of  a  two-ply  character. 
This  method  makes  it  possible  for  a 
clearer  cloth  to  be  produced,  but  for 
the  same  result,  so  far  as  weight  is 
concerned,  much  finer  yarns  are  nec- 
essary. In  this  cloth  there  have  been 
used  120-2  warp  and  filling  and  both 
yarns  contain  the  same  amount  of 
twist  and  are  identical  in  every  way. 
Usually  the  single  yarns  which  are 
used  in  making  hard  twist  ply  yarns 
are  no  different  than  are  ordinarily 
produced,  the  hard  twist  being  intro- 
duced only  when  the  two-ply  result 
is  being  made.  Such  a  fabric  as  that 
considered  would  be  made  much  more 
economically  from  grey  yarns  with 
the  finishing  being  accomplished  after 
the  cloth  was  woven,  than  it  would  if 
it  were  made  from  bleached  yams. 

BLEACHED  YARNS. 

In  fact,  it  would  be  unsatisfactory 
to  handle  bleached  yarns  as  fine  as 
are  used  in  this  cloth.  There  are  a 
number  of  methods  of  making  hard 
twist  two-ply  yarns,  the  best  method 
depending  somewhat  upon  conditions 
of  operation.  For  filling  it  is  some- 
times a  good  plan  to  produce  fine 
numbers  on  an  ordinary  spinning 
frame,  twisting  the  material  onto 
filling  bobbins,  thus  having  them 
ready  for  the  loom  with  no  extra 
processes  needed,  except  the  steam- 
ing process  which  is  necessary 
to  set  the  twist  and  make  the  yarn 
possible  to  handle.  For  warp  a  dif- 
ferent method  must  be  adopted,  as 
the  yarn  must  be  spooled,  warped 
and  sized  before  it  can  be  woven,  and 
inasmuch  as  the  twist  inserted  is  so 
hard,  much  care  must  be  exercised 
or  trouble  will  ensue.    Filling  is  often 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


127 


handled  In  much  the  same  manner  as 
warp,  being  spooled,  warped,  sized 
and  quilled  on  a  long  ch::in  quiller. 
When  this  is  done  no  steaming  is  nec- 
essary because  the  sizing  process  has 
eliminated  the  need  for  it.  In 
certain  cases  otlior  methc  ds  are  also 
employed,  but  it  is  necessary  to  keep 
quite  a  tension  on  the  yarn  or  else 
a  large  shrinkage  will  occur  and  part 
of  the  vain  effect  when  the  cloth  is 
woven  will  ^e  lost.  Whc.i  spinning 
or  twi„..ug  har  !  twist  twc-ply  yarn 
there  is  often  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
in  keeping  travelers  on  frame 
because  the  harr!  twist  yarn  acts  very 
much  as  a  saw  and  will  cut  through 


might  be  when  the  cloth  is  finished. 
Another  reason  why  fancy  weaves  are 
not  used  on  crepe  ground  cloths  is 
because  they  do  not  appear  at  all 
prominent  when  such  a  cloth  is  fin- 
ished and  the  effect  is  largely  lost, 
making  the  use  of  snih  a  weave  a 
wasted  effort.  In  some  case  fancy 
weaves  are  used  with  silk,  but  for 
an  all-cotton  fabric  it  is  practically 
never  noted.  In  this  connection  the 
fabric  which  we  are  considering  is 
radically  different  from  an  ordinary 
crepe,  for  this  cloth  contains  a  weave 
which  is  not  plain.  The  weave  used 
is  ordinarily  known  as  a  "mock-leno" 
weave   and   we   are   illustrating   it   to 


^iv»:^fr>• 


Mock  Leno  Weave  Crepe. 


travelers  in  a  speedy  manner,  causing 
many  breakages.  The  breaking  of 
one  erd  is  a  much  more  serious  mat- 
ter ti  I  it  is  with  ordinary  two-ply, 
-because  the  hard  twist  makes  the 
yarn  very  springy  and  when  an  end 
breaks  t  is  likely  to  ciuse  the  break- 
age of  others  alongside  of  it. 

It  is  seldom  that  any  kind  of  a 
crepe  fabric  contains  anything  but 
plain  weave  o^  the  ground  cloth,  or 
at  least  a  very  simple  weave  which 
acts  much  the  same  as  plain  weave 
does.  The  reason  for  this  is  found 
in  the  low  construction  and  in  the  re- 
sult desired.  Plain  weave  gives  the 
most  strength  fo*  the  yarn  sizes  used 
and    is    more    effective    than    others 


make  the  situation  more  evident.  By 
taking  a  piece  of  the  fabric  and  pull- 
ing it  there  will  be  noted  a  distinct 

SEPARATION   OF  THREADS. 

the  warp  dividing  into  threes.  This 
happens  because  of  the  weave  used. 
Threads  1-2-3  slip  in  together,  as  d* 
4-5-6  and  so  on.  It  will  be  noted  in 
our  analysis  we  have  used  a  17  reed 
with  three  ends  per  dent  throughout. 
The  same  result  Tnight  as  easily  be 
obtained,  and  in  many  cases  undoubt- 
edly is,  with  a  34  reed  with  three 
ends  in  one  dent  and  the  succeed- 
ing dent  containing  no  threads  at 
all.  This  allows  the  effect  produced 
to  be  more  prominent  and  is-  «pme- 


128 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


times  used.  In  an  ordinary  fabric  the 
use  of  this  weave  produces  an  open- 
work fabric  which  is  somewhat  simi- 
lar to  a  leno  weave,  but  in  this  crepe 
fabric  such  an  effect  is  not  noticeable 
and  the  great  shrinliage  from  grey  to 
finished  width  covers  up  largely  the 
weave  which  has  been  used,  although 
it  makes  a  result  which  is  very  at- 
tractive and  is  not  possible  through 
the  use  of  a  plain  weave.  The  floating 
of  the  warp  and  filling  allows  space 
for  the  hard  twisted  yarn  to  contract 
much  better  than  if  the  weave  was 
entirely  plain  and  the  crinkled  ap- 
pearance makes  the  cloth  look  as  if 
novelty  yarn  of  a  peculiar  natare  had 
been  used. 

PRODUCING    CREPE    EFFECTS. 

There  are  three  distinct  types  of 
crepe  cloths:  First,  that  class  of  ma- 
terials which  is  produced  largely 
from  grey  yarn,  usually  containing 
hard  twist  filling  alone,  but  in 
special  instances  it  contains  hard 
twist  warp  to  a  greater  or  less  ex- 
tent, to  which  class  the  fabric 
analyzed  belongs.  Second,  the  fab- 
rics that  are  produced  from 
bleached  and  dyed  yarns,  which  con- 
tain hard  twist  usually  in  the  filling, 
but  in  very  few  cases  in  the  warp. 
Either  of  these  two  classes  of  fabrics 
mentioned  may  be  woven  on  a  box 
loom  which  produces  a  regular  crepe 
effect,  or  on  a  regular  loom  with  one 
twist  in  the  filling  producing 
a  wavy  effect.  A  third  class  of 
fabric,  which  many  consider  as 
crepe,  is  that  class  of  materials 
produced  through  the  merceriza- 
tion  process.  As  is  usually  well 
known,  the  application  of  caustic  soda 
to  cotton  yarns  or  cloth  will  cause 
them  to  shrink  approximately  25  per 
cent.  If  this  shrinkage  is  not  al- 
lowed and  the  yarn  or  cloth  is  held 
out  to  approximately  its  original 
width,  the  cotton  fibres  which  com- 
pose the  material  seem  to  swell  out 
and  become  more  nearly  round,  thus 
reflecting  the  light  and  producing  a 
lustrous  effect.  If  no  tension  is  em- 
ployed, and  the  fabric  or  yarn  is  im- 
mersed, a  large  shrinkage  will  take 
place,  but  no  lustre  will  be  noted. 
This  is  the  method  which  is  adopted 
in  producing  the  crepe  fabrics  which 


are  mercerized.  In  most  cases,  these 
crepe  styles  appear  in  the  form  of 
stripes  and  are  obtained  through  the 
methods  by  which  the  result  is  pro- 
duced. Caustic  soda  is  applied  to  the 
material  in  various  stripes  and  the 
cloth  shrinks  where  this  solution  Is 
applied,  while  the  other  portion  of 
the  cloth  will  crinkle  up,  causing  a 
wavy  appearance  and  producing 
what  many  have  been  inclined  to 
designate  as  a  crepe  weave,  though 
it  is  not  theoretically  of  this  charac- 
ter. There  are  various  combinations 
and  styles  in  the  several  lines  oi 
crepe  and  often  one  style  is  mistaken 
for  another  by  those  not  experienced 
in  production.  Not  only  is  this  true, 
but  it  often  happens  that  mills  manu- 
facturing crepes  will  produce  fabrics 
by  a  method  which  is  not  the  most 
economical,  that  is,  a  mill  making 
bleached  and  dyed  yarn  fabrics  will 
produce  styles  which  could  be  better 
obtained  through  the  grey  yarn 
method. 

INTERESTING   FEATURES. 

An  ordinary  crepe  fabric  seldom 
shrinks  more  than  25  per  cent,  that 
is,  for  a  36-inch  grey  cloth  at  least 
a  27-inch  finished  cloth  will  be  pro- 
duced, while  in  most  lines  the  shrink- 
age is  not  quite  so  great  as  that 
named.  For  the  fabric  analyzed  the 
shrinkage  in  width  from  grey  to  fin- 
ished cloth  is  approximately  40  per 
cent,  thus  being  much  greater  than 
for  an  ordinary  crepe  fabric.  In  ad- 
dition to  the  shrinkage  in  width  there 
is  a  shrinkage  in  length  of  from  20 
per  cent  to  25  per  cent.  This  gives 
a  resulting  fabric  which  is  not  pos- 
sible to  obtain  when  most  cloths  are 
considered  and  is  only  possible 
through  the  use  of  hard  twist  warp 
and  filling  yarns.  This  loss  is  a  se- 
rious item  in  many  ways  and  will  be 
mentioned  further  in  regard  to  the 
cost  of  production.  It  might  be  won- 
dered just  what  happens  to  the  sel- 
vages under  these  circumstances,  but 
it  will  be  found  that  the  selvage  ends 
are  not  crowded  very  closely  and 
that  they  shrink  perceptibly,  though 
not  in  the  large  crinkles  noted  in  the 
body  of  the  warp.  For  this  reason, 
the  selvages  are  somewhat  longer 
than   the  main  portion  of  the  fabric 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


129 


and  contain  a  more  or  less  wavy 
effect  so  as  to  take  up  the  same 
amount  in  iengtli  as  the  main  part  ot 
the  tabric.  The  fabric,  due  to  its 
great  shrinkage,  has  to  be  produced 
on  a  very  wide  loom  and  inasmuch 
as  there  are  very  few  of  such  looms 
in  use  in  the  domestic  market  in  mills 
which  are  capable  of  making  novelty 
constructions  such  as  that  consid- 
ered, it  is  very  likely  that  the 

PROFIT   PER  YARD  TO  THE  MILL 

is  quite  high,  much  higher  than  it 
would  be  were  the  cloth  being  pro- 
duced in  large  quantities  and  were  it 
not  of  so  radically  different  a  nature 
from  most  materials.  Due  to  the 
loom  width,  the  picks  per  minute 
are  not  as  high  as  for  a  narrowei 
loom,  thus  causing  a  rather  low  pro 
duction  and  increasing  the  cost.  S( 
far  as  the  weaving  operation  is  con- 
cerned, there  is  nothing  especially 
intricate  in  this  direction,  the  effect 
being  produced  through  the  charactei 
of  the  yarns,  the  simple  weave  and 
the  finishing  employed.  The  cloth  in 
the  grey  appears  very  similar  tc 
many  of  the  low  constructed  widt 
voile  fabrics  which  were  so  common 
a  year  or  more  ago,  though  it  must 
be  said  the  result,  when  finished,  ia 
not  at  all  like  the  voiles  usee 

PRICES  AND   COSTS. 

There  are  many  interesting  fea- 
tures regarding  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion and  the  selling  prices  for  the 
cloth  considered.  We  have  given  the 
cost  of  making  the  grey  cloth  in  a 
large  economical  mill  which  would  be 
likely  to  produce  fancy  cloths  of  this 
character.  It  will  be  noted  that  the 
mill  cost  in  the  grey  is  approximately 
2iy2  cents  per  yard.  The  selling 
price  depends  a  good  deal  upon  cir- 
cumstances and  on  the  price  which 
the  fabric  can  be  disposed  of  to  other 
sellers.  It  Is  unlikely  that  it  was 
sold  for  less  than  25  cents  per  yard 
and  possibly  a  higher  price  was  ob- 
tainpd.  Possibly  the  item  of  greatest 
importance  to  the  converter  is  in  re- 
gard to  the  shrinkage  of  the  cloth 
when  finished.  As  previously  stated, 
this  fabric  shrinks  in  length  any- 
where from  20  to  25  per  cent  in  the 
finishing  process.     Should   this   cloth 


have  cost  25  cents  in  the  grey  state, 
this  shrinking  feature  alone  would 
add  almost  10  cents  per  yard  to  the 
grey  cost,  without  considering  the 
various  hnishiug  charges  at  all,  which 
naturally  would  be  high  because  of 
the  special  character  of  the  cloth  and 
the  fact  that  it  is  so  wide  in  the  grey 
state.  Without  doubt  this  cloth  actu- 
ally costs  the  converter  40  cents  or 
over,  not  taking  into  considera- 
tion at  all  the  various  expenses  or 
profits  which  are  encountered  in  sell- 
ing such  a  high  class  novelty.  Under 
these  circumstances  the  retail  price 
of  $1.25  a  yard  does  not  seem  espe- 
cially high  when  compared  with  many 
of  the  all-cotton  fabrics  on  which  the 
retail  price  is  at  least  three  times  the 
cost  of  the  cloth  in  a  finished  state. 
Much  the  same  condition  exists  on 
the  mercerized  crepes  being  sold  as 
are  noted  on  the  fabric  under  consid- 
eration, for  on  these  cloths  the  finish- 
ers demand  a  25  per  cent  working 
loss,  though  in  a  number  of  cases  the 
actual  loss  does  not  amount  to  any 
more  than  18  or  20  per  cent.  Wlien 
it  is  considered  that  tnere  are  quite  a 
number  of  crepe  fabrics,  probably  the 
majority,  in  which  there  is  a  greater 
or  less  stretch  in  the  yardage  secured 
from  the  finisher,  a  decided  loss  on 
these  fabrics  is  an  item  which  must  be 
carefully  watched  or  else  the  profits 
which  are  estimated  will  be  elimi- 
nated. 

GREY  AND  FINISHED  CLOTHS. 

When  the  grey  and  finished  cloths 
are  compared,  the  first  item  which  is 
noticeable  is  the  shrinkage  in  width 
namely  from  65  to  39  inches.  The 
next  is  in  the  cloth  coui  t.  In  the 
grey  state  the  count  on  the  ground 
fabric  is  about  52  x  52,  while  in  the 
finished  state  the  count  is  about  88  x 
68.  The  increase  in  the  warp  count 
is  brought  about  through  the  shrink- 
age in  width,  while  the  increase  in 
the  filling  count  is  brought  about 
through  the  shrinkage  in  length. 
Another  difference,  wh'Ich  will  be 
noted,  is  that  the  material  appears 
something  like  a  voile  with  an  open 
work  weave  when  it  is  in  the  grey 
state,  and  when  it  is  finished  there 
is  neither  any  weave  apparent  nor 
any   prominent   voile   effect,    the   last 


130 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


feature  being  entirely  eliminated 
through  the  shrinkage  of  the  yarn. 
Another  interesting  feature  which 
of  course  is  not  so  apparent,  but 
which  is  nevertheless  of  interest,  is 
the  weight  of  the  cloth  in  the  grey 
and  finished  state.  Most  ordinary 
grey  woven  fabrics  are  lighter  when 
finished  than  they  are  when  woven. 
Some  of  the  items  in  connection  with 
this  are  as  follows:  A  cotton  yarn 
m  tne  bleaching  process  will  lose 
about  6  or  7  per  cent  in  weight.  In 
addition  to  this  shrinkage  there  is  a 
loss  occasionea  by  the  wasce  of  size 
applied  to  the  warp  to  make  weaving 
operations  more  practical.  For  ordi- 
nary cloth  the  warp  will  contain  from 
5  to  iy2  per  cent  of  size,  that  is  in 
domestic  materials,  though  there  ara 
many  cases  wnere  more  size  is  ap- 
plied. Under  these  conditions  most 
fabrics  will  average  to  lose  in  weight 
from  3  to  4  per  cent  due  to  the  loss 
of  the  warp  in  size.  Altogether,  this 
total  loss  will  amount  to  approxi- 
mately 10  per  cent,  there  being  a 
greater  or  less  loss  aue  to  the  hand- 
ling and  singeing. 

FOR  A  DYED  FABRIC 

the  dyestuff  will  create  an  additional 
weight,  but  in  no  case  in  an  ordinary 
cloth  does  it  anywhere  near  approach 
the  other  losses.  A  fabric  which  con- 
tains a  dark  dyestuff  may  weigh 
about  2  per  cent  more,  due  to  the  dye- 
ing process,  but  for  light  shades  the 
additional  percentage  will  decrease 
to  almost  a  negligible  quantity.  Un- 
der tnese  circumstances  it  can  be 
stated  that  an  ordinary  grey  fabric 
will  lose  in  weight  in  finishing  from 
7  to  10  per  cent.  This  is  in  opposi- 
tion to  the  general  opinion  and  the 
statements  of  many  who  have  never 
investigated  the  situation  and  know 
very  little  regarding  the  theory  of 
manufacturing  and  finishing.  These 
various  losses  are  ordinary  ones  and 
do  not  include  the  losses  aue  to 
stretching,  which  in  some  instances 
have  been  known  to  be  as  high  as 
15  per  cent,  though  in  most  cases  5 
per  cent  stretcn-is  more  nearly  the 
amount  which  would  be  noted.  On 
the  fabric  considered  it  will  reaaiiy 
be  noted  that  there  is  a  much  differ- 
ent condition  existing,  lor  wnlle  tne 


grey  yards  per  pound  are  6.38,  the 
finished  yards  per  pound  are  in  the 
vicinity  of  5.25,  this  cloth  being  much 
heavier  when  finished  than  it  is  when 
grey,  even  though  the  yarns  actually 
lose  approximately  10  per  cent  in  the 
various  finishing  processes. 

YARNS    AND    WEIGHTS. 

There  is  no  necessity  for  the  cloth 
weight  finished  to  be  obtained  except 
as  a  matter  of  interest  in  connection 
with  the  shrinkages,  but  the  cloth  is 
sold  in  the  grey  state  and  it  is  usually 
sold  on  the  construction  and  weight. 
For  this  reason,  we  are  giving  the 
method  of  obtaining  the  weights 
through  the  yarn  sizes  and  take-up. 
When  such  a  fabric  has  to  be  consid- 


The   Weave 

ered  in  its  finished  state,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  a  great  deal  of  care  in 
obtaining  the  yarn  sizes  and  various 
other  items  of  manufacturing.  Un- 
less this  is  done  the  correct  results 
will  not  be  obtained.  In  twisting, 
the  excess  twist  will  make  the  yarn 
contract  and  two  ends  of  120-2  will 
not  produce  a  yarn  which  sizes  the 
same  as  60-1,  but  it  will  be  coarser 
than  the  number  named.  The  10  per 
cent  loss  must  also  be  considered  due 
to  the  bleaching  and  other  processes, 
so  that  there  is  opportunity,  for  those 
not  experienced,  to  have  the  yarn 
sizes  vary  as  much  as  15  or  20  pei 
cent  from  what  they  actually  shoula 
be.  In  giving  the  details  for  the  man- 
ufacture of  the  yams  we  have  given 


A  OOTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


131 


the  cotton  staple  and  other  items, 
which  would  be  noted  in  the  normal 
mill.  Some  manufacturers  are  able 
to  produce  the  size  of  yarn  considered 
out  of  shorter  cotton  than  what  we 
have  used,  while  it  is  probable  that 
in  other  cases  somewhat  longer  cot- 
ton is  necessary.  This  depends  upon 
the  mill  equipment  and  upon  other 
manufacturing  details.  One  item 
which  must  be  considered  when  com- 
paring the  cost  of  making  such  yarn 
with  the  selling  price  is  that  the 
production  of  fine  yarn  is  a  compara- 
tively small  amount  per  spindle,  and 
in  order  to  obtain  the  same  profit  per 
spindle  as  on  coarser  numbers  there 
must  be  a  much  greater  relative  profit 
per    pound.      Five    cents    per    pound 


profit  on  120-1  is  nowhere  near  as 
great  a  profit  as  one  cent  per  pound 
upon  30-1  and  must  be  considered 
when  profits  and  selling  prices  are 
treated  in  a  reasonable  manner.  The 
weights  of  the  yarn  used  and  the 
weight  of  the  grey  cloth  is  as  follows: 

120/2    hard    twist    contains    46,150    yards    per 

pound   instead   of   50,400. 
3,517    ends    -^    46,150    =    .0762,    warp    weight 

without   talte-up    (grey    cloth). 
6%    talie-up    in    weaving. 
.0762    -V-    .94    =    .0811,    total    warp   weight   per 

woven    yard     (grey    cloth). 
52  picks  X  67"  reed  width  X  36" 

=    3,484   yds. 

36" 

of    filling    per   yard    of   grey    cloth. 
3.484    -H-    46,150    =    .0755,    total    filling   weight 

per    woven    yard    (grey    cloth). 
.0811     +     .0755     =     .1566,     total     weight    per 

vard. 
1.0000    -^    .1566    =-    6.38   yards  per   lb.    (grey). 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

120/2  Sea  Island  combed  hard  twist     —     3,357     —     =    3,517   total   ends. 

40  40 

120/2  Sea  Island  combed  hard  twist,  52  picks,  grey. 
17    reed;    67"    reed   width;    65"    grey    width;    39"    finished    width. 
62   X    52  grey  count;  S8   X    68  finished  count. 

TARNS. 

Labor, 

waste,      TwiBt- 
Cotton.       etc.  ing. 

120/2  Sea  Isl'd  combed  H.  T.;  1%"  sta.;  24  hank  dou.  rov..    30c.  48c.         22V«!C.   =   $1.00% 

Warp   and   filling   Identical. 
Yards   per   pound,    46,150    (due   to   contraction). 

CLOTH    COST. 

3.517   ends  120/2   Sea  Island  combed  H.   T.   +    6%   take-up =   .0811    @    fl.00%    =   $  .0815 

52   picks  120/2  Sea   Island  combed  H.   T.   filling =   .0755    @    JLOOMs    =       .0759 

WeaMng    nil 

Expenses    '"^"^ 

$   .2096 
Selling    (grey)    -Q"^" 

Mill    cost    (grey) *  -2136 

Vqrds   per    pound  G  38    (grey). 
KetaU  price  $1.25  ptr  yard. 

♦-»-♦ 

I  there   is   a   great   deal   of   discussion 

TUTTATTD    T  UMA    D  H  TTWl?  heard  as  to  the  relative  values  which 

UNlyUl!j   LEjKU    MllWri  are    being    purchased.      Without    any 

question,  the  radical  nature  of  the 
Practically  all  the  sellers  who  fabric  has  made  it  impossible  for 
handle  fancy  fabrics  of  any  character  many  buyers  to  purchase  with  any  de- 
are  now  offering  their  merchandise  gi-ge  of  certainty,  and  while  they  are 
for  another  season.  In  the  various  usually  able  to  distribute  the  fabrics 
ranges  of  fabrics  which  have  been  taken  at  a  profit,  nevertheless  it  will 
shown,  ratines,  or  fabrics  whic'.i  many  ^e  readily  recognized  that  buyers  are 
would  classify  under  this  heading,  are  less 

without  doubt  being  shown  in  greatest  t  jkeLY  TO  OBTAIN  GOOD  VALUES 

quantities.     The  quality  of  the  above-  ^^^^  .       .^  „.„„. 

mentioned  fabric?  together    with    the  than  they  have  been  in  o  her  reasons, 

selling  price,   will  vary   from   a  very  This  above  result  is   caused   through 

low  figure  tci  T  very  high  price,  and  the  fact  that  these  rating  fabrics  are 


132 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


produced  in  so  many  different  methods 
and  in  such  widely  varying  construc- 
tions, maliing  it  comparatively  impos- 
sible for  a  purchaser  to  compare  ihem 
with  other  styles  or  with  fabrics 
which  have  been  handled  previously. 
Many  of  these  so-called  ratine  fabrics 
are  almost  identical  with  certain  of 
the  toweling  fabrics  regularly  pro- 
duced and  are  made  on  a  terry  cloth 
loom. 

Another  type  of  fabric  is  woven  on 
a  loom  that  produces  somewhat  sim- 
ilar results  to  the  terry  motion,  but 
the  loops  are  produced  in  a  different 
manner  by  wires  which  are  inserted 
and  which  hold  up  the  yarn  as  the 
cloth  is  being  woven.  This  process  is 
very  similar  to  that  employed  in  mak- 
ing many  styles  of  carpets.  On  both 
the  above-mentioned  methods  jac- 
quard  patterns  are  employed,  though 
in  the  first  process  the  back  of  the 
cloth  is  the  reverse  of  the  face.  Va- 
rious adaptations  of  these  two  proc- 
esses liave  also  been  employed.  In 
addition  to  the  processes  mentioned, 
there  is  a  wide  variety  of  fabrics  now 
being  offered  which  are  produced  from 
novelty  yarns.  Inasmuch  as  novelty 
yarns  can  be  produced  in  an  unlimited 
number,  it  naturally  makes  it  possible 
to  have  a  wide  variety  of  woven  fab- 
rics produced  from  them.  Of  course, 
the  various  kinds  of  loop  yarns  pro- 
duce results  which  are  more  nearly 
identical  to  those  resulting  from  the 
terry  motion,  but  the  entire  range  of 
fabrics  are  generally  known  as  ratine. 
In  addition  to  the  methods  we  have 
mentioned  as  being  used  in  making 
the  fabrics  under  discussion, 

A   FABRIC   HAS    APPEARED, 

which,  while  having  the  general  char- 
acteristics noted  in  many  ratine  fab- 
''ics,  is,  however,  produced  by  an  en- 
tirely different  method  and  one  which 
would  by  many  be  considerel  rather 
impossible.  This  method,  of  which 
the  fabric  we  have  analyzed  is  a  good 
example,  is  through  the  use  of  the 
ordinary  leno  motion.  The  crossing 
yarn  is  run  very  loosely  and  the  meth- 
od of  construction  aids  in  producing 
the  result.  In  many  cases,  this  fabric 
would  be  considered  more  desirable 
than  certain  of  the  original  cloths,  be- 
cause the  loops  are  not  so  prominent. 


the  fabric  is  more  stable  and  the  ef- 
fect is  practically  as  desirable  from  a 
selling  standpoint.  Uhtsse  various 
lines  of  ciotiis  are  used  for  dresses, 
waists,  vestings,  hats,  trimmings,  ties, 
and  any  number  of  other  articles, 
even  being  seen  in  draperies,  cover- 
ings and  other  radically  different 
articles. 

As  previously  stated,  a  leno  weave 
is  responsible  for  a  large  portion  of 
the  effect  noted  in  the  fabric  analyzed. 
This  leno  weave  has  a  crossing  thread 
which  crosses  back  and  forth  over 
three  ground  threads,  being  woven  in 
a  loose  manner,  in  order  to  give  the 
roughness  desirable  to  the  fabric. 
To  cause  an  irregular  appearance  to 
the  loose  yarn  there  are  two  doups 
used  in  making  the  cloth;  that  is, 
there  are  two  different  motions  to 
the  crossing  threads.  Both  of  the  mo- 
tions are  identical,  but  the  second  op- 
erates on  a  different  pick  than  the 
first.  Inasmuch  as  the  crossing 
thread  works  in  combination  with 
three  ground  threads,  the  body  of  the 
warp  is  drawn  in  the  reed  three  endf 
per  dent.  The  crossing  threads  dc 
not  operate  over  every  three  threads, 
but  rather  over  every  second  three 
threads;  that  is,  the  first  crossing 
thread  operates  over  threads  1-2-3, 
while  crossing  thread  No.  2  operates 
over  threads  7-8-9.  The  illustration 
of  the  weave  should  make  this  entire- 
ly clear.  We  are  not  presenting  the 
entire  weave,  because  it  repeats  on 
twelve-ground  threads  and  picks  in- 
stead of  the  six  which  we  have  used. 
The  reason  why 

THE  REPEAT  OF  THE  WEAVE 

is  as  large  as  it  is,  is  because  there 
is  a  regular  ground  weave  all  over 
the  fabric.  This  weave  is  a  regular 
four-harness  twill  with  no  changes 
made  because  of  the  leno  threads. 
This  will  be  noted  in  the  illustration 
for  the  warp,  which  is  of  a  mottled 
character,  operating  for  two  picks  on 
the  face  and  then  reversing  for  twc 
picks  on  the  back  of  the  fabric.  Ona 
of  the  items  of  importance  is  that  the 
crossing  thread  is  on  the  face  everj 
time  it  changes  Its  position.  This 
method  holds  the  yarn  in  place  and 
keeps  the  threads  in  their  correct 
positions. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


133 


To  make  the  result  effective  there 
has  been  used  in  the  cloth  cousidered 
a  compaiaiively  Hue  yaru  lor  the 
grouud  of  the  cloth  witL  u  rather 
coaise  yaru  for  the  crossing  threads. 
This  heavy  yarn  has  a  very  small 
amount  of  twist  inserted,  for  this 
gives  the  fabric  a  soft  appearance 
and,  in  addition,  is  of  value  because 
the  leno  or  ciossiiig  yarn  has  been 
mercerized  before  the  weaving  opera- 
tion. To  give  as  good  an  appearance 
as  possible  to  this  yarn,  it  is  made 
from  combed  stock,  though  of  about 
as  short  character  as  can  be  satisfac- 
torily combed.  The  ground  yarns  are 
made  from  slightly  better  stock  than 


duce  such  a  fabric  as  that  considered 
is  to  use  grey  yarns,  with  a  mercer- 
ized leno  yarn,  and  then  bleach  the 
fabric  in  the  piece  after  it  has  been 
woven.  The  mercerization  oi  the  yarn 
and  the  price  which  has  been  given 
for  it  are  the  ones  which  would  be 
noted  were  it  planned  to  have  another 
party  accomplish  this  work,  a  condi- 
tion whicli  is  by  far  the  most  com- 
mon, inasmuch  as  grey  cloth  mills 
very  seldom  have  any  finishing  ap- 
paratus. It  is  usually  good  policy  to 
use  as  coarse  a  reed  as  possible  in 
making  fabrics  of  this  character,  be- 
cause this  allows  much  easier  cross- 
ings  for    the    leno    threads,   and   the 


«■:■  - 


The    Leno    Ratine   Fabric   Described. 


would  be  used  for  plain  cloth  contain- 
ing the  same  sizes  of  yarn.  This  is 
not  absolutely  necessary,  but  will 
often  be  found  desirable  in  such  a 
fabric  as  that  ccnsidered,  because  the 
increase  in  production  more  than  off- 
sets the  extra  price  which  is  noted 
for  the  better  cotton.  In  a  fabric  of 
this  character,  the  yarns  form  a  com- 
paratively small  portion  of  the  total 
cost,  oftentimes  the  percentage  of 
labor  in  the  fabric  amounting  to 
about  75  per  cent  of  the  total  cost  of 
making.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the 
use  of  a  cotton  wherein  a  small  per- 
centage of  increase  in  the  weave  room 
production  can  be  secured  is  of  large 
advantage.    The  best  method  to  pro- 


heavy  leno  yarn  is  less  likely  to  be 
broken  than  if  a  fine  reed  were  used. 
In  most  fabrics  of  this  character  it  Is 
possible  for  a  weaver  to  run  only  one 
loom.  This  is  necessary,  because  the 
doups  are  continually  breaking,  and 
as  the  material  is  comparatively  ex- 
pensive it  is  not  a  good  policy  to  al- 
low the  leno  yarn  to  stop  operating 
for  even  a  few  picks,  as  it  makes  a 
second. 

COSTS   AND    SELLING    PRICES. 

Possibly  the  most  interesting  item 
regarding  the  fabric  considered  is 
that  which  concerns  the  cost  of  man- 
ufacturing and  the  price  which  Is  being 
obtained  at  retail.     Allowing  reason- 


134 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


able  items  in  our  analysis  we  find 
that  for  the  width  of  cioth  considered 
it  should  not  cost  over  2U  cents  lor  a 
mill  to  produce  the  material;  in  tact, 
it  is  likely  that  it  couid  be  produced 
for  a  smaller  amount  in  quite  a  num- 
ber of  instances.  These  fabrics  are 
in  good  demand  to-day,  and  allowing 
a  high  mill  profit,  namely  15  per  cent, 
the  mill's  selling  price  should  not  be 
over  22  cents.  Under  such  conditions 
this  fabric  should  be  sold  by  the  re- 
tailer at  50  cents  per  yard  and  have 
the  various  sellers  obtain  a  rate  of 
profit  satisfactory  for  the  radical  na- 
ture of  the  fabric.  That  this  has  not 
been  done  is  readily  recognized,  in- 
asmuch as  the  cloth  is  not  selling  for 
50  cents  per  yard  at  retail,  but  rather 
is  being  offered  for  $1.49.  It  would 
seem  as  if  it  were  possible  for  cou 
verters  to  develop  a  fabric  similar  to 
the  one  analyzed,  but  in  a  slightly 
narrower  width,  so  that  it  could  be 
sold  at  no  more  than  39  cents  per  yard 
and  allow  a  very  good  profit  to  the 
various  sellers.  We  believe  this  would 
have  occurred  if  this  fabric  had  been 
produced  earlier  than  it  was,  but 
there  is  a  tendency  among  manufac- 
turers to  avoid  novelty  materials  of 
this  character  at  the  present  time,  for 
they  believe  the  sale  will  shortly  de- 
cline. This  price  of  $1.49  per  yard 
shows  that  someone  has  obtained  a 
very  large  profit,  and  very  likely  it  is 
not  the  manufacturer. 

THE    RETAILER   UNDOUBTEDLY 

Is  obtaining  quite  a  little  extra  profit, 
but  it  does  not  seem  possible  that  Lj- 
is  obtaining  anything  like  the  entire 
profit  which  this  .fabric  shows.  There 
are  very  many  materials  being 
sold  on  which  the  retail  price  is 
at  least  three  times  the  cost  of  the 
goods  in  a  finished  state,  but  it  is  sel- 
dom that  the  retail  price  is  from  six 
to  seven  times  the  cost  of  the  goods 
in  a  finished  state,  as  is  noted  on  this 
cloth.  The  result  illustrates  very 
clearly  what  is  likely  to  happen  when 
retailers  and  others  do  not  give 
enough  consideration  to  the  fabrics 
being  produced  in  the  market  and  do 
not  recognize  the  actual  cloth  values 
in  any  way.  Possibly  the  retailer  can 
obtain  $1.49  per  yard  for  this  mate- 
rial, largely  because  tne  consumer  is 


often  foolish  where  styles  are  being 
considered,  but  there  should  be  no 
legitimate  reason  lor  such  a  thing 
occunmg  and  probably  retaiiers, 
even  previous  seiieis,  are  being 
as  badly  deceived  regarding  value  as 
the  consumer  is. 

It  may  be  that  this  fabric  was  im 
ported,  yet  it  was  not  claimed  thai 
such  was  the  case,  but  if  it  was  im  • 
ported,  it  shows  that  the  purchaser 
has  absolutely  no  idea  regarding 
value  and  that  the  material  couid 
have  been  produced  in  the  domestic 
market  so  as  to  be  sold  with  large 
profit  at  a  much  more  reasonable  price. 
Many  times  fabric  importers  do  not 
give  enough  consideration  to  the  lines 
of  high-class  novelties  whi.-h  some  of 
the  domestic 

SELLERS  ARE  DEVELOPINC 

These  buyers  will  make  trips  to  for- 
eign markets  and  purchase  a  certain 
amount  of  cloth  which,  with  the  duty, 
makes  their  purchases  cost  quite  high 
amounts,  whereas  if  they  had  useu 
half  as  much  effort  in  examining  the 
various  lines  in  the  domestic  market 
they  could  have  obtained  just  as  great 
variety  and  oftentimes  the  identical 
fabric  at  a  very  much  lower  price. 
It  is  often  the  practice  to  purchase  all 
the  fabrics  from  a  single  seller  in  the 
domestic  market,  and  while  this  has 
its  advantages,  nevertheless  it  doe» 
certainly  curtail  the  variety  which 
is  obtainable  and  oftentimes  elimi- 
nates fabrics  which  would  help  in  en- 
larging the  distribution  of  the  pur- 
chaser. There  have  been  more  in- 
stances of  purchasers  being  fooled  re- 
garding values  the  present  season 
than  there  ever  has  been  in  the  past, 
and  while  there  always  is  a  certain 
amount  of  this  taking  place,  neverthe- 
less the  styles  being  purchased  and 
certain  other  features  in  the  situation 
tend  to  indirate  that  consumers  wil) 
not  continually  be  as  easily  deceived 
regarding  fabrics  as  they  have  beei 
the  present  summer,  and  sellers  ma! 
not  be  able  to  dispose  of  their  mer 
chandlse  at  the  enormous  advancet 
whi'^h  manv  of  them  exnert  to  obtain 
WHien  such  a  fabric  as  the  one  con 
sldered  has  to  be  nroflnced  bv  a  mill 
not  acnnalnted  with  the  manufaoturt 
of  it,  there  must  be  a  great  deal  ol 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


135 


consideration  given  to  tlie  analysis  of 
tlie  fabric  before  any  definite  price  is 
named  for  any  large  Quantity.  In  the 
first  place,  unless  the  labric  is  dupli- 
cated within  a  reasonable  degree  of 
accuracy,  the  result  obtainc  i  will  not 
be  identical  with  the  fabric  being 
imitated. 

The  sizes  of  the  ground  yarns,  both 
warp  and  filling,  can  be  obtained  in 
a  comparatively  easy  manner,  but 
such  yarns  are  somewhat  finer  in  the 
finished  cloth  than  they  are  when  they 
are  used  in  producing  the  grey  ma- 
terial. This,  however,  is  not  of  great 
Importance  in  a  fabric  of  the  charac- 
ter described,  but  is  of  interest  in  the 
result.  The  same  condition  applies 
to  the  leno  yarn  and,  while  the  losses 
are  likely  to  be  somewhat  greater  on 
this  yarn,  due  to  the  soft  twibt  which 
has  been  used  and  to  the  merceriza- 
tion  process,  the  finer  size  *  i  the  fin- 
ished cloth  does  not  affect  the  result 
as  much  as  the  take-up  on  the  yarn. 

THE    ENORMOUS   TAKE-UP. 

Not  only  does  the  take-up  affect  the 
appearance  of  the  cloth,  but  it  also 
has  much  to  do  with  the  cost  of  the 
material  which  is  used  in  producing 
it.  It  will  be  noted  from  our  analysis 
that  there  has  been  a  take-up  on  the 
leno  yarn  of  practically  68  per  cent, 
or,  in  other  words,  it  requires  about 
three  yards  of  yarn  to  weave  one  yard 
of  cloth.  Many  ordinary  leno  fabrics 
are  woven  with  a  take-up  of  from  20 
to  30  per  cent,  and  a  mere  estimate 
of  the  actual  take-up  in  weaving  the 
cloth  considered  would  be  likely  to 
fall  far  short  of  what  the  take-up 
would  actually  be,  thus  giving  a  much 
smaller  weight  of  yarn  to  produce  the 
cloth  and  a  lower  cost  than  should  be 
noted.  This  fabric  illustrates  very 
well  why  it  is  not  a  good  plan  to  size 
yarn  as  it  stands  in  the  finished  cloth 
without  considering  at  all  the  take-up 
In  weaving.  This  yarn  was  28-2  when 
used,  whereas.  If  such  a  method  of 
sizing  the  yarn  had  been  adopted  in 
assessing  duties,  the  result  obtained 
would  be  applied  to  10-2  yarn,  rather 
thin  30-2.  with  a  lof'.'er  rate  of  diitv 
than  actually  should  be  noted.  Of 
course,  this  would  make  very  little 
difference  In  a  fabric  where  the 
ground  yarn  is  as  fine  as  it  is  in  this 


cloth,  with  the  leno  yarn  as  coarse  as 
that  used,  but  the  yarn  sizes  are  not 
always  relatively  the  same  as  they 
are  in  the  cloth  analyzed,  and  fine 
two-ply  yarn  is  sometimes  noted  for 
the  crossing  threads.  It  is  this  large 
take-up  in  crossing  yarn  which  is 
•mainly  responsible  for  the  rating  or 
towelling   effect. 

THIS  FABRIC  IS  NOT  STRETCHED 

like  many  of  the  materials  which  are 
being    sold     to-day,     but    Instead,    it 


illustrating     Mottled     Appearance     or 
Warp. 

shrinks  a  slight  amount  in  finishing, 
which  gives  a  better  effect,  yet  which 
makes  a  few  more  picks  in  the  clotn 
than  when  it  is  woven  with  a  corre- 
spondingly fewer  nuraber  of  yards  re- 
turned. The  shrinkage  in  width  is 
somewhat  greater  than  for  most  ordi- 
nary cloths,  as  this  is  desirable.  Inas- 
much as  it  creates  somewhat  more 
prominent  loops.  The  shrinkage 
In  length  affects  the  cost  to  the 
purchaser,  but  not  in  very  large 
amounts  and  not  anywhere  near 
so  radically  as  is  noted  on  some 
other      fabrics     which      are      being 


136 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


handled  in  quantities  to-day.  Mak- 
ing the  fabric  in  tlie  manner  de- 
scribed is  of  a  certain  amount  of  ad- 
vantage, because  the  back  of  the  clotn 
is  smooth.  This  does  not  occur  when 
novelty  yarns  are  used,  neither  does 
it  occur  in  a  great  many  of  the  ordi- 
nary terry  cloths.  The  crossing  back 
and  forth  and  weaving  in  of  the  leno 
threads  makes  a  very  firm  fabric  with 
a  comparatively  small  number  of 
threads  and  picks  per  inch  and  also 
when  quite  fine  yarns  are  used  for 
the  ground  cloth.  Such  a  cloth  con- 
struction would  not  be  permissible  in 
producing  this  character  of  fabric  as 
ordinarily  produced,  for  the  threads 
would  slip  and  the  result  would  not 
be  desirable. 

Practically  none  of  the  terry 
cloths  of  this  character  are  made 
from  yarns  as  fine  as  are  used  in  the 
fabric  considered,  and  if  they  were 
the  heavy  yarns  would  not  be  bound 


in  sufficiently.  The  fabric  described 
is  one  of  the  lightest  appearing 
ratines  which  has  been  produced  and 
the  whole  effect  is  not  only  a  very 
good  imitation  of  the  novelty  yarn  or 
terry  cloth  styles,  but  it  is  also  very 
much  like  an  ordinary  crepe,  due  to 
the  light  and  irregular  character  of 
the  cloth.  Ihe  method  of  obtaining 
the  weight  of  the  yarns  and  the  cloth 
is  as  follows: 

2.658  ends   -r-    (60/1    X    840>    =    .0527.   weight 

of   fine   warp   without   take-up. 
6%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0527    -^    .94     =    .0o61.    total    weight    of    fine 

warp  per  yard  of   woven  cloth. 
403    ends    -^    (2S/2    X    840)     =    .0342,    weight 

of    heavy    warp    without    take-up. 

68%    take-up  in   weaving. 
.0342    -=-   .32    =    .1068.    total    weight   of   heavy 

warp  per  vard  of  woven  cloth. 
64  picks  X  44  reed  width  X  36" 

=   2,816  yds. 

36" 
of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
2.816    -^    (65/1    X    840)    =   .0516,    total  weight 

of  filling  per  vard   of  woven   cloth 
.0561    -f    .1068   -I-  .0516    =    .2145.    total    weight. 
1.0000    -;-    .2145    =    4.66   yards   per   lb.    (grey). 


60/1   Am.  combed  W3,rp 
28/2  Am.  combed  warp  mere. 


65/1   Am.   combed   filling;    64   picks. 

19  reed;   44"   width   in   reed;   37%"-38"   finished   width. 
79    X    65   finished  count. 


3,061    total    ends. 


YARNS. 


60/1  Am.  combed:  1%"  staple;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 
28/2  Am.  combed;   1%"  staple;   .=>%   hank  dou.   rov., 
65/1  Am.  combed;  1   5-16"  sta. ;   16  hank  dou.   rov., 


Cotton. 

22%c. 
15%c. 
21c. 


Labor, 
waste, 

etc. 

19  %c. 
9V2C. 

18c. 


Twist- 
ing and 
mere. 

6%c. 


42%c. 
31>^c. 
39c. 


COST. 

2.658  ends  60/1   Am.   combed  warp   +    6%    take-up =   .0561    @    42%c. 

403    ends  28/2    Am.   combed   warp    4-    68%    take-up =   .1068    @    31 1,4c. 

64    picks   65/1    Am.    combed    filling =   .0516    @    39c. 

\vea>'mg     

Bxpenues    


Selling    (grey). 


Min  profit  (15%  upon  fair  capitalization). 

M!;i    selling   price    

Finishing     

Convei  ter's    Expenses     


Total   coat   to   converter    

Seiiing   price  to   retailer  ought  not  to   be  over. 
Retail    price  ought  to  be  less   than 


$  .0237 
.0338 
.0202 
.0933 
.0223 

$  .1935 
.0035 

$  .1070 
.0220 

$  .2190 
.0175 
.0325 

$  .2690 
.3250 
.5000 


Actual   retail   price  $1.49  per  yard. 
VardB  per  pound  (gray)  4.66. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


m 


SPECIAL  WEAVE  CREFE 

We  have  previously  aiiabzed  and 
described  certain  varieties  of  crepe 
fabrics,  but  inasmucli  as  anoLlier  ef- 
fect, wliicli  seems  more  or  Iviss  desir- 
able, lias  been  developed,  it  may  be 
of  service  to  manuiacturers  to  de- 
scribe tlie  material  in  some  detail. 
The  whole  fancy  cotton  cloth  induscry 
is  built  up  on  ideas,  and  the  develop- 
ing of  new  ones  or  the  changing  of 
old  ones  over  to  a  slightly  different 
foim  is  mainly  responsible  for  most 
of  the  satisfactory  profits  received, 
and  the  lack  of  these  same  ideas  has 
a  great  deal  of  influence  in  bringing 
about  losses  and  ultimate  fc^ilures. 

Everyone  knows  that  novelty  yarn 
fabrics  have  been  very  desirable  and 
that  large  profits  have  been  secured 
in  their  manufacture  and  sale,  often 
when  the  cloths  contained  very  little 
wearing  value.  Many  expect  that  the 
present  season  will  see  the  height  of 
the  demand  for  such  cloths,  and  that 
another  year  they  will  be  much  less 
salable,  especially  the  fabrics  of  un- 
satisfactory construction.  This  condi- 
tion is  recognized  by  the  best  sellers 
and  they  are  avoiding  such  merchan- 
dise as  much  as  possible,  although 
naturally  they  have  to  handle  a  cer- 
tain amount  in  order  to  satisfy  buy- 
ers and  keep  their  lines  as  wide  in 
variety  as  possible.  These  foregoing 
facts  are  likely  to  have  a  great  influ- 
ence on  the  sale  of  crepe  cloths. 

For  one  thing,  crepes  have  not  been 
in  demand  for  so  lon^  a  time  as  nov- 
elty yarn  cloths,  thus  making  their 
sale  an  increasing  one,  while  that  of 
novelty  cloths  is  a  decreasing  one. 
Then  the  extenaed  use  of  novelty  yarn 
materials,  which  are  mostly  of  a  very 
heavy  character,  is  very  likely  to  cre- 
ate an  aversion  to  such  goorls,  making 
lighter  fabrics,  of  which  most  crepes 
are  very  good  examples,  in  especially 
good    demand.      At    present    the    best 

SPll'nP'     c'oMk?     of     ->      frt-np-'T     f.lnTTj-|pr 

are  crenes  which  have  decorations  of 
a  noveUv  va^n  rha-acter,  thp  fabric 
thus  ronRtru("ted  obtaining  whatever 
advantages  thpre  are  in  the  sale  of 
these  two  cloths. 

Few  realize  the  g^'eat  variety  of 
construction    and    adaptations    whicJ 


are  desirable  and  probably  necessary 
in  the  distiibution  of  any  such  nov- 
elty cloths  as  voiles,  ratines  or  crepes, 
but  it  can  be  said  that  the  lines  of 
practically  every  seller  of  such  coods 
will  vary  to  a  certain  extent  and  while 
geneial  ideas  are  often  adopted,  the 
cloth  construction,  pattern  or  cloth 
results  finished  show  a  great  many 
differences.  This  is  done  not  only 
because  there  is  a  large  demand  for 
variety,  but  also  because  of  the  set 
prices  which  are  in  vogue,  and  other 
features.  Then  it  is  customary  to 
produce  in  cheap  materials  the  same 
ideas  which  are  selling  well  in  the 
more  expensive  cloths  and  the  lower- 
ing of  quality  often  creates  many  dif- 
ferent effects,  the  same  thing  being 
true  regarding  fabrics  which  are  made 
in  the  more  expensive  grades. 

When  any  ground  fabric  is  in  de- 
mand, manufacturers  can  change  the 
construction  and  readapt  styles  almost 
without  number.  This  is  where  the 
value  of  an  idea  like  that  considered 
is  of  interest.  The  cloth  is  a  crepe 
in  many  respects,  still  it  has  a  face 
appearance  something  siijiilar  to  a 
voile,  due  to  the  use  of  good  two-ply 
yarn,  and,  in  addition,  has  a  notice- 
able wave  appearance  which  is  radi- 
cally different  from  that  of  ordinary 
crepes,  either  box  loom  or  regular.  In 
fart,  the  result  is  something  like  a 
Bedford  co^-d  of  an  extremely  light 
orepe  construction,  with  the  stuffer 
threads  omitted. 

As  is  quite  well  known,  crepe  cloths 
are  a  special  material,  not  only  in 
regard  to  the  yarns  used  in  their 
making,  but  also  as  to  the  finishing 
processes.  Crepe  constructions  might 
be  said  to  be  generally  of  a  very  low 
character  with  a  comparatively  few 
threads  and  picks  per  inch.  This 
method  of  production  is  adopted  to 
allow  for  the  shrinkage  in  finishing 
which  gives  the  cloth  the  result  gen- 
erally noted.  Of  course,  certain 
crepes  are  made  with  quite  a  firm 
construction,  but  it  is  not  the  usual 
method,  and  when  such  a  course  is 
used,  the  shrinkage  and  appearance  is 
Tint  that  so  often  noted.  Ordinary 
crepes  of  a  w-a^'y  character  can  be 
woven  on  an  ordinary  loom  with  only 
one  twist  in  the  filling.  Most  crepes, 
however,  are  woven  on  box  looms,  at 


138 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


least  those  which  are  sold  at  the 
higher  prices.  Sometimes  a  pick  and 
pick  loom  is  used  where  a  single  pick 
of  one  twist  of  filling  is  inserted  and 
then  another  pick  of  filling  is  used 
with  twist  inserted  in  the  opposite 
direction  from  that  previously  used. 
Box  loom  crepes  are  also  made  in 
great  quantities  where  there  are  two 
picks  of  each  kind  of  twisted  yarn 
inserted,  this  being  caused  by  the  fact 
that  most  mills  are  not  in  positions 
to  use  a  single  pick  of  any  filling.  A 
comparatively  few  crepes  have  been 
made  where  over  two  picks  of  a  cer- 
tain kind  of  twist  are  used  in  succes- 


nection  with  the  yarn?  used  In  the 
fabric  analyzed.  It  is  necessary  for 
the  filling  yarn  to  be  twisted  to  a 
much  greater  extent  than  is  ordinarily 
the  case,  if  there  is  a  satisfactory 
amount  of  contraction,  which  contrac- 
tion produces  the  crepe  effect  so  often 
noted.  This  shrinkage  occurs  when 
the  fabric  is  finished  and  not  during 
or  immediately  after  the  weaving  op- 
eration. In  fact,  on  many  styles  of 
crepe  fabrics  the  contraction  in  weav- 
ing is  not  nearly  so  great  as  it  is  for 
many  ordinary  fabrics.  The  standard 
of  twist  which  is  inserted  in  yarn  of 
this  character  will  vary  quite  a  little, 


WW' 


Special   Wave  Crepe. 


sion,  but  this  results  in  special  ef- 
fects which  are  not  usually  especially 
desirable.  The  cloth  under  discussion 
was  produced  on  a  pick  and  pick  loom, 
this  being  necessary  because  only  a 
single  pick  of  hard  twist  filling  is 
inserted  when  this  filling  is  used. 
Although  in  the  cloth  the  introduction 
of  these  hard  twist  picks  of  60-1  is  not 
regular,  it  is  comparatively  so,  and 
the  picks  will  average  to  be  two  of 
150-2  and  one  of  60-1  hard  twist.  Un- 
der this  condition  out  of  the  90  picks 
per  inch,  which  the  cloth  contains,  60 
of  them  will  be  of  the  two-ply  yarn, 
while  30  of  them  will  be  of  a  hard 
twist  character. 

There    are  a  number    of    features 
which  are  worthy  of  mention  in  con- 


but  it  will  run  from  6%  to  as  high  as 
9  or  even  more  times  the  square  root 
of  the  yarn  number  in  turns  per  inch. 
The  usual  standard  is  about  TV2  to  8. 
One  interesting  feature,  which  is 
not  apparent  to  most  mill  men  until 
they  attempt  to  make  hard  twist  fill- 
ing, is  that  there  is  quite  a  large  con- 
traction, the  amount  varying  some- 
what, due  to  the  amount  of  twist  in- 
serted in  the  spinning  operation. 
Thus,  to  have  the  drafts  satisfactory 
in  the  spinning  and  the  roving  of  the 
correct  size  to  obtain  any  yarn  size, 
the  roving  has  to  be  finer  than  it 
otherwise  would  be.  In  many  cases 
there  is  a  contraction  of  at  least  10 
per  cent  when  the  yarn  is  spinning, 
making  it  necesBary  to  have  Ui©  rov- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


189 


Ing  correspondingly  finer.  Hard  twist 
yarn  also  has  to  be  treated  in  order  to 
malce  it  satistactory  to  weave.  The 
excessive  amount  of  twist  makes  the 
yarn  very  springy,  and  to  weave  as  it 
comes  from  the  spinning  frame  would 
result  in  the  cloth  being  full  of  small 
loops  and  probably  being  entirely  sec- 
onds. 

To  overcome  this  difficulty,  the 
yarn  has  to  be  steamed  or  handled 
in  some  such  manner  to  set  the  twist 
and  eliminate  any  springy  tendency. 
Yarn  is  usually  steamed  on  the  filling 
bobbins  and  because  most  bobbins  are 
likely  to  contain  oil  which  has  soaked 
into  them  or  varnish  or  in  some  other 
manner  to  give  out  undesirable  ele- 
ments when  under  high  temperatures, 
it  is  necessary  to  use  bobbins  which 
have  been  specially  treated  so  that  the 
yarn  will  not  be  likely  to  absorb  any 
i'oreign  matter.  With  some  mills  this 
Is  not  so  necessary  as  in  others,  but 
satisfactory  results  practically  always 
make  it  imperative.  One  of  the  inter- 
esting features  in  connection  with 
hard  twist  yarn  is  regarding  the  cost 
of  production.  In  many  hard  twist 
yarns  it  is  possible  to  use  a  some- 
what shorter  staple  than  if  ordinary 
yarn  was  to  be  produced. 

The  change  in  this  direction,  how- 
ever, is  very  slight,  and  in  many  cases 
not  feasible  for  a  manufacturer  to 
adopt,  but  the  quality  of  the  results 
has  much  to  do  with  this  problem. 
One  reason  why  shorter  cotton  can  be 
used  is  because  of  the  irregular  re- 
sults noted  in  crepe  fabrics.  Of 
course  a  shorter  staple  does  help 
slightly  in  reducing  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction, but  it  is  of  very  small  im- 
portance when  the  increased  cost  is 
considered  due  to  slower  production. 
As  the  turns  per  inrh  in  aiv  varn  in- 
crease the  production  will  decrease, 
for  the  sneed  of  the  spindle  is  ap- 
proximately stable. 

As  the  production  decreases  the  la- 
bor and  various  other  exnense  items 
Increase,  for  the  production  per  snin- 
dle  is  the  it<^m  of  greitpst  imnortance 
in  the  making  of  ncru^ate  ro^t  psti- 
matea.  It  is  seldom  that  any  satis- 
factorv  hard  twist  y^rn  c'^s'^s 
less  than  twice  as  miT^h  as  fo'* 
the  same  size  of  yarn  of  similar  ordi- 
nary  character,   that   Is,   warp   yam. 


Each  mill  has  problems  in  this  direc- 
tion which  make  results  somewhat 
different,  but  it  is  one  of  the  items  of 
importance  and  should  never  be  over- 
looked in  any  way.  In  connection 
with  the  yarns  used  in  this  cloth  it 
may  be  well  to  state  a  few  facts  re- 
garding the  fine  two-ply  yarn  which 
has  been  used. 

A  great  many  have  a  mistaken  idea 
regarding  the  cost  of  yarns  as  the 
sizes  increase.  This  is  not  true  and 
is  explained  as  follows:  As  an  illus- 
tration 30-1  is  produced  over  six  times 
as  fast  as  100-1,  although  100-1  is 
only  three  and  one-third  times  as  fine 
a  size.  This  is  mainly  because  the 
turns  in  any  yarn  are  not  regulated 
by  the  size,  but  rather  by  the  square 
root  of  the  size.  Due  to  the  great 
reduction  in  production  the  cost  of 
the  yarn  increases  by  approximately 
the  same  ratio  as  the  production  de- 
creases. This  is  true  generally  when 
all  yarns  produced  on  a  spinning 
frame  are  being  compared,  but  when 
yarn  sizes  become  so  fine  that  it  is 
necessary  to  produce  them  on  a  mule 
the  difference  is  even  more  radical. 

The  figures  we  have  mentioned  ap- 
ply to  frame  yarns,  but  for  the  150-2 
a  much  greater  reduction  in  produc- 
tion, with  a  radical  increase  in  cost 
of  production  is  noted.  Of  course, 
frame  yarns  are  being  successfully 
made  up  to  about  125-1,  but  above  this 
point  mules  are  found  necessary.  The 
minute  a  change  is  made  from  frame 
to  mule  for  approximately  the  same 
kind  of  yarn,  there  is  a  decided  jump 
in  the  cost  of  production.  We  have 
considered  this  feature  in  our  fabric 
cost  estimates.  The  same  thing  is 
more  or  less  true  regarding  the  cost 
of  the  twisting  process  because  the 
number  of  turns  per  inch  does  not  in- 
crease according  to  the  yarn  size. 

Crepe  cloth  construction  is  usually 
pretty  well  known,  but  its  adaptation 
in  such  a  manner  as  that  in  the  cloth 
under  discussion  is  seldom  seen.  In 
the  first  place  the  face  of  the  cloth 
mav  be  said  to  he  comnosed  entirely 
of  1P'>-2  yarn  with  a  count  of  about 
74  y  fin  in  the  finished  state.  On  the 
ha'^k  of  the  cMth  and  hound  in  at 
rpirii'ar  intpr^'als  across  the  fabric  Is 
the  hard  twist  60-1  filling.  This  yarn 
floats  on  the  back  mych  the  same  aa 


140 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


in   an     ordinary     Bedford     cord,   but 

naturally  does  not  become  face  yarn 
at  all,  as  in  the  cloth  mentioned. 
When  the  fabric  is  finished  this  yarn, 
which  is  loose  on  the  back,  contracts 
and  forces  up  the  plain  woven  face 
material,  thus  creating  waves  or  tucks 
as  noted.  One  item  in  regard  to  this 
fabric  is  that  it  probably  would  be  a 
much  more  satisfactory  method  to 
weave  the  cloth  face  down  in  the 
loom.  This  makes  it  necessary  for 
the  loom  to  lift  much  less  yarn  and 
saves  in  power  and  is  likely  to  result 
in  a  better  appearing  fabric. 

This  item  of  weaving  cloths  face 
down  is  one  which  is  not  always  con- 
sidered as  seriously  by  manufacturers 
as  should  be  done,  for  while  the  power 
saved  is  often  slight,  it  is  true  that  a 
much  better  appearing  fabric  can 
jften  be  obtained.  The  shrinkage  in 
width  in  this  cloth  is  much  more  radi- 
cal than  for  most  crepes,  for  in  the 
majority  of  instances  there  is  less 
than  a  25  per  cent  shrinkage,  while 
this  cloth  shrinks  more  than  30  per 
cent.  There  are  certain  objections 
which  might  be  offered  to  a  fabric  of 
this  character,  the  main  one  being 
that  the  loose  ends  on  the  back  are 
likely  to  catch  on  any  substance  or 
projection  which  they  are  brought  in 
contact  with.  In  a  good  many  cases 
this  is  of  comparatively  little  impor- 
tance and  does  not  affect  the  value 
of  the  idea.  Neither  does  it  make  the 
method  undesirable  in  other  fabrics. 
Such  a  cloth  as  the  one  consMere-i.  but 
made  in  stripes  or  checks  of  an  attrac- 
tive pattern  would  undou^^tedly  be  rn- 
spopsible  for  a  very  satisfactorv  profit. 

The  fabric  considered  is  an  import- 
ed article  and  in  this  connection  It 
may  be  well  to  state  a  few  facts. 
Many  domestic  mills  are  organized  to 
produce  large  quantities  of  staple  and 
semi-staple  cloths,  and  fancy  mills 
have  been  patterned  after  the  same 
general  idea.  This  makes  it  neces- 
sary for  a  manufacturer  to  obtain 
large  contracts  and  get  out  c^oth  at 
comparatively  low  prices,  but  the 
method  is  of  great  disadvantage  so 
fa''  as  fabric  variety  is  conr-erned. 
With  thp  great  increase  in  high  c'ass 
cotton  fabric  sale  domestic  manufac- 
turers are  at  a  disadvantage,  for  they 
behold  their  number  of  styles  increas- 


ing rapidly,  together  with  the  cost  of 
production,  and  it  is  creating  so  much 
detail  that  the  large  organizations  are 
not  especially  capable  of  handling 
them.  It  is  absolutely  certain  that 
most  of  the  manufacturers  in  the  do- 
mestic market  cannot  broaden  out 
very  much  more  than  they  have  done 
without  creating  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  for  themselves. 

The  foreign  manufacturer  operates 
in  a  much  different  manner.  He  pro- 
duces much  smaller  quantities  of  the 
various  styles,  and  while  this  does 
make  the  cost  of  manufacturing  com- 
paratively high,  it  offers  onportunity 
for  the  display  of  individual  effort 
whii^h  is  not  nops!b^e  in  anv  ]a"!?e  way 
in  the  domestic  market.  It  might  be 
possible  to  sell  50  or  100  pieces  of  a 
certain  fabric  at  a  nrice  which  wouM 
return  a  l^^.rge  dividend,  but  because 
of  its  high-c'a<?s  character  a  buyer 
might  not  desl'^e  to  nu-chase  any 
large  amount.  Such  fab^-ics  a'^e  not 
suitable  for  most  domestic  manufac- 
turers and  pa^-tlv  explains  why  we 
have  had  importations  of  foreign  mer- 
chandise. It  is  not  so  largely  a  nues- 
tion  of  price  as  it  is  a  question  of 
variety  and  the  sine  of  orders  which 
can  be  handled  sitisfactorily  by  buy- 
ers. With  a  jobber  handling  mer- 
chandisre  large  o"de"s  are,  of  course, 
divided  into  many  rarts,  but  there  is 
a  very  evident  tendency  to  distribute 
goods  diT'ect  to  the  retailer  in  fancy 
lines,  and  it  is  certain  that  nuch  more 
of  it  will  have  to  br  done  if  domestic 
sellers  compete  with  handlers  of  for- 
eign merchandise,  a  large  majority  of 
whom  adopt  SMch  methods. 

There  is  comnaratively  little  inter- 
est in  regard  to  the  nnishing  of  this 
fabric.  Of  cou^'se  it  cannot  be  handled 
by  the  maiority  of  finishers  mainly 
because  it  is  so  wide.  It  is  piece-dyed 
and  the  stpaming  or  boiling  is  respon- 
sible fc  the  confaf'tion  and  crepe  ef- 
fect. Comna'-ativelv  few  c^pne  fab- 
ric's are  produ^pd  from  bleached  and 
dved  yarns.  The  reason  for  this  is 
l^ecpuse  the  excpsr>'e  a^^onnt  of 
handling  and  thp  charncte"  of  thp  varn 
not  onW  make  the  cost  of  n'-nduction 
h^e^h.  but  Hp-^Plon  manv  di^^'^u^t'es  in 
making.  When  yarn  is  twistpd  with 
a  large  number  of  turns  ner  inch  it 
loses  a  great  deal  of  its  strength  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


141 


this  condition  makes  it  Impossible  to  amount    per    yard     was   obtained    in 

handle  in  a  bleached  and  dyed  condi-  profit.     The  retail  selling  price  is  $2 

tion  in  most  instances.  per  yard  and  while  this  undoubtedly 

There  are  certain  effects  which  can-  allows  a  very  large  rate  of  profit  to 

not   be   produced   in   any   other   man-  the  retailer,  nevertheless  the  amount 

ner  than  through  the  use  of  bleached  of  duty  necessary  and  the  profits  of 

yarn,   but  manufacturers   are   not   in-  the    manufacturer    and    other    sellers 

clined     to    produce    any    quantity   of  make  the  selling  price  of  the  cloth  a 

such  cloths,  and  when  it  is  done  it  is  comparatively  reasonable  advance  on 

rather     hard  to  obtain     the     relative  the  cost  of  production.     The  rate  of 

profits  which  are  really  necessary  to  duty   for  this   fabric  is   10   cents   per 

make  a  satisfactory  result.     This  fab-  yard  and  not  less  than  40  per  cent  ad 

ric  has  been  considered  on  a  domes-  valorem.      Probably    the     amount     of 

tic  basis  of  cost  production  and  a  mill  duty  was   quite  a  little   in   excess   of 

should  be  able  to  accomplish  the  work  10    cents    per    yard.      The    yards    per 

at  the  figures  given  if  they  are  in  a  pound  in  the  grey  state  are  7.17,  thus 

position    to    manufacture    wide    cloth  making  the  cloth  sell  at  retail  at  ap- 

and   produce  yarn    of    the    sizes  and  proximately     $15     per     pound.       The 

character  used.     Naturally  thjre   are  method    of   obtaining   the    weights    of 

but  few  mills  in  a  position  to  do  such  the  yarn  and  the  weight  of  the  cloth 

work    and    the    selling   price    for    the  is  as  follows: 

cloth   is  probably  high  for  such   rea-  2,954  ends  ^  (150/2  x  840)  =  .0469,  weight 

sons.     Because  the  cloth  is  made  on  of  warp  without  take-up. 

a  box  loom  which  operates  at  a  slow-  ■<%  take-up  in  weaving-. 

er   speed    and    because    the   cloth   is  •*''**^  "^  -^^  =    'l^*''*'  t"*^'  weight  of  warp 

,,  'J        ii  J       i-  •  J  PPi"    woven    vard. 

rather  wide   the   production   in   yards  eo  picks  x  57%"  reed  width  x  36" 

per  week  is  comparatively  small.  =     3.450 

For  this  reason,  it  is  necessary  for  ^.^^^^  „,  fining' a50/2)  per  yard. 

the   manufacturer    to    obtain  a  much  3.450  -^  fi50/2  x  840)  =  .0548,  total  weight 

larger  amount  of  profit  per  yard  than  °^  i50/2  fining  per  yard. 

for    most     cloths.     In     this    case   he  30  picks  x  57%"  reed  width  x  36"     ^     ^  ^^^ 

should  obtain  from  2i/^  to  3  cents  per  36" 

ya»-d   at  least,   to   allow  a   reasonable  yards  of  fining  f60/i)  per  yard. 

l^^fif  ^,r,    ^•hr.^r.ct    r.f\,    Z^^Z*        J  1-725    ^    (60/1    X    840)    =   .0342,   total  weight 

profit  on   the  cost  of  a  plant.     Inas-  of  60/1  fining  per  yard. 

mii^h  as  a  hirh-class  noveltv  sells  on       •05'i4  +  .0548  -f-  .0342'  =  .1394.  total  weight. 

style  it  is  probable  that  a  much  larger      ^ "(grey^   '^^^*    ^    "'^   ""^"^^   "^'^   ''°""'^ 

PATTERN. 
8  8 

150/2  Sea  Island  combed       —     2,834     —     =  2,954,  total  ends. 

20  20 

150/2   Pea   Island   combed   fllllnff  )      .a    .   *   i      ,  , 

60/1   Am.  combed   hard   twist  filling      <     '"•  **'**'  Picks. 
Filling  averages  In  cloth  2  picks  of  150/2  and   1   pick  of  60/1. 
60  reed.   57%"  width  In   reed.  39%"-40"  finished   width. 
74   X    92  finished  count. 

YARN!?.  Labor.     Twist- 

Cotton,   waste,  etc.     Ing. 
150/2  Pea  Island  combed:  1%"  staple:   30  hank  dou.  rov.,     32c.  79%c.  16c.      =   Jl.27% 

60/1   Am.  combed;   1%"  staple;   14  hank  dou.  rov.,  19c.         29%c.  =       .48% 

COST. 

2.954  ends  150/2  Pea.  Island  combed    -f-   7%   take-up    =   .0504    (5)    Jl.27%      =   $  .0644 

60    picks   15n/2    Sea   Island    combed =   .0548    @      1.27%      =        .0700 

80   picks    60/1    Am.    combed   hard    twist =   .0342    @        .48%      =        .0165 

Weaving     0603 

Expenses    0317 

$   .2429 
Selling    (grey) 0065 

Mill    cost    (grey) $  .2494 

Mill    spning   price    (not   less   than) 2800 

Finishing,    etc 0500 

R^te  of  duty  4  0%. 

Profits  and  expenses  of  various  sellers  not  considered. 

Retail   selling   price   $2   per  yard. 

Tarda  per  pound   7.17    (grey). 


142 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


RICE  CLOTH 


(The  Best  Cotton  Fabric  for  Spring.) 
The  question  which  has  been  upper- 
most in  the  minds  of  buyers  of  cotton 
goods  during  the  past  few  weelis  has 
been — What  cloth  can  I  purchase  to 
take  care  of  my  distribution  and  be 
certain  that  a  good  profit  will  be  se- 
cured and  on  which  no  slump  is 
likely?  Manufacturers  have  also  been 
just  as  interested  as  buyers,  for  un- 
less some  kind  of  a  novelty  style  is 
in  good  demand,  it  is  very  probable 
that  none  of  the  desirable  profits 
which  are  often  responsible  for  satis- 
factory mill  operation  are  received. 
Possibly   a    short   explanation    of   the 


not  at  all  new.  Good  sellero  state 
positively  that  the  best  of  the  demand 
for  present  styles  in  cotton  jacquards 
is  over,  and  that  a  declining  demand, 
together  with  smaller  profits,  is  certain 
for  the  immediate  future.  Then,  there 
are  the  heavy  novelty  yarn  fabrics 
which  have  sold  well  for  a  number  of 
years. 

In  the  East,  where  the  greatest  por- 
tion of  distribution  is  noted,  these 
cloths  are  dead  or  nearly  so,  and  any 
one  handling  any  sizable  quantity  is 
likely  to  sustain  quite  large  losses.  In 
the  West  such  cloths  are  stih  in  de- 
mand, but  their  production  is  not  es- 
pecially desirable  to  most  Tnanufac- 
turers.  Of  course,  certain  of  the 
newer  colored  yarn  cloths  have  sold 
and    probably   will    continue    to    sell 


Rice  Cloth. 


conditions  which  exist  "may  be  desir- 
able in  view  of  the  opinions  of  some 
sellers  who  are  always  trailers  and 
who  never  achieve  any  remarkable 
success  in  cloth  production  and  dis- 
tribution. 

Jacquard  styles  have  been  selling 
well  and  mills  have  quite  a  few  orders 
for  such  goods,  but  in  any  case  these 
styles  do  not  have  any  great  effect 
on  the  bulk  of  the  distribution. 
Quite  a  portion  of  the  jac- 
quard styles  being  made  to-day  are 
considered    as    semi-staples    and    are 


well,  but  we  are  referring  more  par- 
ticularly to  grey  woven  materials. 
Another  thing  of  interest,  though 
known  to  comparatively  few  sellers, 
is  that  Southern  mills  have 

KILLED  THE  PRODUCTION 

of  heavy  grey  yarn  ratings  for  most 
Northern   manufacturers. 

When  the  demand  for  the  heavy 
novelty  yarn  cloths  first  developed 
none  of  the  Southern  makers  were 
acquainted  with  the  yarn  or  cloth 
production,  and  so  for  a  time  prac- 


A  COTTON  FABRIUS   GLOSSAtvi 


US 


tically  no  ratings  were  made  in  this 
section.  Gradually,  however,  a 
greater  amount  of  knowledge  was  ob- 
tained and  more  manufacturers  were 
able  to  produce  them,  so  that  to-day 
the  quotation  for  a  Norther^x  fabric 
will  be  about  IO14  to  10^^  cents  per 
yard,  while  the  same  fabric  will  be 
sold  by  Southern  makers  at  9%  to  9% 
cents  per  yard. 

This  has  forced  quite  a  large  share 
of  the  heavy  grey  yarn  novelty  cloth 
orders  to  be  obtained  by  Southern 
manufacturers.  There  are  facts  of 
Importance  in  the  production  of  nov- 
elty materials  which  many  Southern 
makers  have  not  yet  learned,  but  one 
of  them  which  must  be  considered  is 
that  it  is  not  a  very  good  practice  to 
make  any  quantities  of  novelty  goods 
on  a  declining  market.  Another  thing 
is  that  it  is  advisable  not  to  sell  up 
one's  entire  production  when  a  fabric 
looks  as  though  it  might  be  a  large 
profit  maker.  A  waiting  game  with 
moderate  sales  to  keep  looms  in  op- 
eration will  be  responsible  for  much 
larger  profits,  for  looms  can  then  be 
sold  when  the  rate  of  profit  is  at  the 
highest  point. 

Another  line  of  fabrics  that  has 
been  desirable,  and  which  will  be  in 
demand  for  spring,  is  that 

ORDINARILY  KNOWN  AS  CREPE. 
There  are  certain  objections  to  any 
big  use  of  such  cloths,  although  at 
present  they  appear  as  desirable  as 
any  other  line,  with  the  exception  of 
rice  cloth.  For  one  thing  they  have 
never  had  a  very  long  run,  as  con- 
sumers are  apt  to  tire  of  them  in  a 
comparatively  short  time.  For  an- 
other thing  the  production  of  large 
quantities  of  crinkle  effects,  both 
woven  and  mercerized,  has  curtailed 
a  great  deal  the  possibilities  of  dis- 
tribution for  crepes. 

The  uncertainty  regarding  styles 
has  made  it  possible  for  a  compara- 
tively new  line  called  rice  cloths  to 
be  developed.  They  are  used  for  the 
same  purpose  as  the  other  materials 
mentioned,  but  they  contain  ideas 
which  are  making  a  very  large  sale 
possible  and  are  returning  especially 
attractive  dividends.  It  may  not  be 
generally  known  outside  of  circles 
where  style  tendencies  ure  discussed. 


but  nevertheless  it  is  a  fact  that 
lighter  fabrics  are  rapidly  gaining 
strength  and  that  another  year  will 
again  see  a  large  demand.  This  does 
not  necessarily  mean  that  there  will 
be  as  large  quantities  of  fine  plain 
materials  sold  as  formerly,  because 
this  will  not  occur  until  certain  ave- 
nues of  distribution  which  have  been 
closed  for  some  time  are  again  avail- 
able. 

In  addition  to  being  of  a  light  char- 
acter, these  rice  cloths  contain  nov- 
elty yarn  effects  which  are  different 
from  many  of  those  sold  in  past  years. 
The  name  probably  developed  from 
the  fact  that  the  small  yarn  bunches 
scattered  over  the  fabric  look  some- 
thing like  grains  of  rice.  The  name 
itself  is  of  value,  for  to  most  sellers 
ratine  is  more  or  less  stale  and  rice 
cloth  at  least  sounds  new.  Large 
quantities  have  already  been  con- 
tracted for,  and  more  will  be  pur- 
chased in  the  near  future  with  very 
large  mill  profits.  For  grey  cloths  the 
prices  run  from  somewhat  less  than 
10  cents  per  yard  to  about  20  cents 
per  yard,  the  latter  price  being  the 
quotation  for  probably  the  most  de- 
sirable cloth  of  this  character  offered. 

THE    CLOTH   CONSTRUCTION. 

There  is  nothing  regarding  rice 
cloths  which  present  any  great  diffi- 
culties in  manufacturing.  As  yet  they 
are  not  being  produced  in  Southern 
mills  to  any  extent,  partly  because 
the  yams  are  somewhat  finer  than  a 
good  many  Southern  Tnills  produce 
and  partly  because  mills  in  this  sec- 
tion have  not  been  wide  enough 
awake  to  realize  the  opportunity.  In 
practically  all  cases,  plain  weave  is 
used  in  the  production  of  these 
cloths,  and  it  is  desirable  to  have  them 
of  a  comparatively  wide  width,  40- 
inch  grey  being  one  of  the  big  selling 
widths.  The  warp  is  an  ordinary  50-1 
warp,  no  different  than  would  be 
noted  for  any  medium  weight  plain 
cloth  containing  this  size  and  count. 
The  threads  per  inch  are  compara- 
tively few  in  number,  thus  creating 
no  great  difficulties  so  far  as  produc- 
tion is  concerned.  The  filling  yarn 
contains  the  features  which  produce 
the  novelty  effect  in  these  rice  cloths. 
The  more  bunches  or  extra  yarn  the 


144 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


filling  contaiiLs  the  more  the  cloth  is 
likely  to  cost  and  to  a  certain  extent 
the  more  desirable  the  material  is 
likely  to  be.  Because  the  filling  is  of 
a  comparatively  coarse  character,  due 
to  the  twisting  process  which  has  been 
used,  the  picks  per  inch  are  compara- 
tively few  in  number.  Naturally,  the 
fewer  bunches  there  are  in  the  yarn 
the  finer  it  will  be  when  twisted,  and 
when  such  is  the  case  it  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  use  a  greater  number  of 
picks  per  inch.  It  is  necessary  to 
have  a  low  warp  count  because  should 
too  many  threads  per  inch  be  used 
they  will  cover  up  and  largely  spoil 
the  effect  desired.  On  most  of  the 
heavy  ratines  the  yarn  sizes  are  rela- 
tively 4-1  or  coarser,  while  in  many 
of  these  rice  cloths  the  relative  yarn 
sizes  are  7-1  or  finer. 

THE  YARN  MAKING. 

Inasmuch  as  the  warp  is  ordinary 
yarn,  no  description  is  needed  for  this 
portion  of  the  fabric.  The  filling 
does,  however,  need  quite  a  little  at- 
tention not  only  because  of  the  meth- 
od of  manufacture,  but  also  because 
of  other  features.  In  the  first  place, 
the  filling  used  in  these  rice  cloths 
is  not  composed  of  as  large  a  num- 
ber cf  ends  as  have  been  used  in 
many  of  the  rating  clotho  which  have 
been  selling.  Filling  for  rice  cloth, 
in  most  instances,  is  a  twisted  yarn 
composed  of  only  two  threads  and  in 
which  but  a  single  twisting  operation 
has  been  used,  while  in  many  of  the 
ratines  four  threads  were  used  and 
two  twisting  operations  were  neces- 
sary to  obtain  the  result. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  advantage 
in  making  a  two-ply  twisted  novelty, 
because  much  less  handling  is  neces- 
sary resulting  in  a  lower  cost  of  pro- 
duction. Often  yarn  of  this  character 
is  produced  on  an  ordinary  spinning 
frame,  the  yarn,  when  completed,  be- 
ing ready  for  the  loom,  with  no  suc- 
ceeding processes.  All  that  is  neces- 
sary for  satisfactorily  producing  such 
yarn  is  a  frame  which  contains  two 
separate  sets  of  rolls  and  on  which 
one  set  of  rolls  can  be  stopped  at  va- 
rious intervals.  This  question  of 
stopping  the  operation  of  the  rolls  is 
an  important  one  in  obtaining  satis- 
factory   results.      If    possible,     they 


should  be  stopped  irregularly,  so  that 
the  yarn  bunches  in  the  finished  re- 
sult will  appear  irregularly  in  the 
cloth  and  not  be  likely  to  form  what 
are  called  patterns. 

It  is  sometimes  a  good  policy  to 
use  a  box  loom  when  weaving  cloth 
of  this  character,  as  it  tends  to  elimi- 
nate some  of  the  foregoing  difiicul- 
ties.  There  is  one  thing,  however, 
regarding  the 

PRODUCTION  OF  NOVELTY  YARN 
with  only  two  threads,  and  this  is  that 
the  result  is  not  bound  closely  enough 
to  make  it  suitable  for  use  as  warp. 
The  loose  yarn  will  slip  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent  on  the  ground  yarn, 
but  not  to  a  great  enough  extent  to 
make  the  use  impractical,  that  is,  if 
enough  twist  has  been  inserted. 
When  the  correct  amount  of  twist  is 
used,  the  ground  yarn  will  contract 
somewhat  in  twisting,  and  in  doing 
this  when  the  bunch  is  being  formed 
will  run  the  extra  thread  down  on 
the  ground  yarn,  thus  binding  the 
bunch  much  more  firmly  than  would 
otherwise  be   possible. 

Special  twisters  have  been  made  to 
perform  this  operation  regularly,  but 
with  the  correct  yarn  sizes  and  the 
right  amount  of  twist  it  is  hardly 
necessary  for  a  fabric  such  as  that 
described.  The  yarn  which  forms 
the  nub  or  bunch,  namely  36.5-1,  is 
delivered  approximately  two  and 
one-half  times  as  fast  as  the  ground 
yarn  which  is  50-1,  There  is,  how- 
ever, quite  a  large  take-up  in  the 
twisting  operation  even  upon  the 
ground  yarn,  making  the  resulting 
yarn  size  much  coarser  than  would 
be  expected.  With  the  take-ups 
which  are  noted,  namely  27  per  cent 
upon  the  50-1  ground  and  71  per  cent 
upon  the  36.5-1  loose  yarn,  the  rela- 
tive yarn  sizes  will  be  36.5-1  for  the 
50-1  ground  yarn  and  10.58C-1  for  the 
36.5-1  loose  yarn. 

Through  the  use  of  the  method  for 
obtaining  a  two-ply  yarn  sii.e  when 
yarns  of  different  sizes  are  twisted 
together,  namely,  dividing  their  prod- 
uct by  their  sum,  we  obtain  a  result- 
ing nov^elty  yarn  size  of  8.20-1,  or  a 
yarn  containing  6,888  yards  per  pound. 
With  this  as  a  basis,  it  ir  a  compara- 
tively easy  matter  to  obtain  the  cost 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARt 


Ui 


per  pound  of  the  novelty  yarn,  but  it 
is  abjsoiuielv  (•eriaiu  tlial  tue  maiority 
of  mauuiactuieis  do  not  adopt  any 
accurate  nietliod  for  obtaining  their 
novelty  yarn  costs,  and  for  tliis  rea- 
son they  do  not  itnow  the  profits  tiiey 
are  obtaining  nor  anything  like  an 
accurate  cost  for  their  goods,  altliough 
it  might  be  said  that  when  such  fab- 
rics are  in  demand  the  profit  is  usually 
high  enough  to  place  them  on  the 
right  side  of  the  transaction. 

THE  YARN  COST. 

It  will  be  noted  that  we  have  ob- 
tained the  cost  of  the  yarns  used  in 
making  this  novelty  result,  using  regu- 
lar 50-1  warp,  a  method  which  prob- 
ably the  majority  of  mills  would  be 
forced  to  adopt.  Under  this  condi- 
tion the  cost  to  the  mill  when  econ- 
omy is  practiced  is  STV^  cents  per 
pound  for  50-1  and  25^^  cents  per 
pound  for  36.5-1.  Inasmuch  as  the 
novelty  yarn  contains  6,888  y?.rds  per 
pound,  the  use  of  the  yarn  costs,  to- 
gether with  the  relative  sizes  which 
they  are  when  the  take-up  in  twisting 
is  considered,  will  give  the  cost  o*  the 
various  yarns  used  in  making  a 
pound  of  novelty  filling.  This  gives 
8.43  cents  as  the  cost  of  the  50-1  and 
18.21  cents  as  the  cost  of  36.5-1  in  a 
pound  of  novelty  yarn.  The  total  cost 
of  material  per  pound  for  the  novelty 
yarn  is  therefore  26.64  cents,  the  re- 
puH  be!.ig  TTiuch  nearer  the  price  of 
36.5-1  than  for  50-1,  because  a  much 
larppr  po'-tion  of  the  weight  is  of  the 
hea^ipr  yarn. 

TiM<5  ro<5t  of  material  is  rot  the  cost 
of  thp  finishpd  yarn,  bprause  there  is 
tho  'abor  and  pxnenses  which  are 
not^d  in  the  twisting  process,  and  in 
afidition  there  is  a  certain  amount  of 
expense  noted  for  experimentation 
when  cp'-tain  of  these  no^  j1ty  yarns 
a'-e  produced.  In  a  varn  like  that 
iiped  in  the  s^mnle  this  exnerimenta- 
tion  rhaT'e  should  not  be  very  la'^ge 
boran'5P  the  nnantities  of  the  mate- 
rial pppflpd  fo'*  anv  modP'"ate  size  of 
order  is  nu'te  iirg-e.  and  besides  there 
is  po  e'-pat  d'ficu'tv.  if  a  manufac- 
tii'-pr  kpows  his  business,  in  being 
ab'e  to  dnpli^ate  yarn  such  as  is  used, 
at  lpa«!t  so  far  as  nraoticc.1  purposes 
are  concerned.  The  yarn  production 
in  ronnr's  per  week  will  not  be  nearly 


as  large  as  the  actual  size  when 
twisted  would  indicate,  because  the 
turns  per  inch  are  very  much  greater 
than  in  a  normal  yarn  of  the  size 
noted. 

THE  POSSIBLE  PROFITS. 

Due  to  unfamiliarity  with  all  kinds 
of  novelty  yarn  fabrics,  buyers  have 
often  been  willing  to  pay  prices  for 
such  cloths  as  to  return  some  extra- 
ordinary profits.  We  are  absolutely 
certain  that  in  a  good  many  cases 
manufacturers  have  not  realized  the 
rate  of  profit  which  they  were  ob- 
taining, but  this  fabric  show3  a  con- 
lition  which  exists  to-day  generally 
upon  rice  cloths.  The  reason  why 
they  do  not  know  the  rate  of  profit 
secured  is  because  they  do  not  inves- 
tigate the  cost  of  production  in  an 
accurate  enough  manner,  the  trouble 
being  mainly  because  of  the  shrink- 
ages and  various  other  details  which 
affect  "le  cost  on  the  novelty  filling. 
This  cloth  could  be  produced  by  an 
economical  mill  for  the  price  which 
we  have  figured,  namely  12.36  cents 
per  yard,  but  in  the  estimates  which 
we  have  given  regarding  profits  we 
have  allowed  a  somewhat  h'gher  cost 
than  this,  so  that  there  could  be  no 
question   regarding  results. 

The  selling  price  to-day  for  the  fab- 
ric which  we  have  analyzed  is  20 
cents  per  yard.  This  allows  a  net 
profit  to  the  mill  of  over  7  cents  ner 
yard,  for  a  fabric  w^hich  cortains  only 
S!4  picks  per  inch.  This,  it  will  be  rec- 
ognized, is  a  condition  which  se^om 
exists  for  manufacturers  who  can  pro- 
duce a  hieh-c^ass  fabric  in  nuantit'es. 
The  small  number  of  picks  per  inch 
makes  it  possible  for  ouite  a  large 
numbpr  of  vards  of  cloth  to  be  pro- 
duced per  loom  per  week.  Ordinarily 
fancy  mills  attempt  to  obtain  a  net 
profit  of  about  $2  per  loom  per  week, 
or,  in  other  wo'-ds,  $100  per  loom  per 
year,  which  will  return  a  net  profit 
of  in  the  vicipitv  of  "io  ner  cent  for 
fancy  goods.  This  cloth,  instead  of 
showing  the  ordinary  $2  per  loom  per 
week,  hows  at  least  !*''S75  per  loom 
per  wp.^k,  or  about  $937.50  per  loom 
per  vear. 

Tt  must  be  remembered  that  this 
cloth  's  not  produced  upon  a  fancy 
loom,   but  rather   upon   a  plain   loom 


146 


A  Cotton  fabrics  glossary 


which  can  make  grey  cloth  40  inches 
wide.  Under  these  conditions  tiie 
capitalization  per  loom  \.ill  not  be  as 
high  as  tor  many  mills  containing 
fancy  looms.  The  obtaining  of  a  protit 
of  over  $900  per  year  per  loom  makes 
it  possible  for  £.  rate  of  profit  to  be 
secured  of  approximately  117  per  cent. 
If  this  result  was  being  secured  on 
very  small  quantities  of  cloth  and  by 
only  one  or  two  sellers  no  attention 
would  be  given  to  the  matter,  but  it 
is  being  secured  on  large  quantities 
of  cloth  and  by  quite  a  number  of  sell- 
ers. Not  only  is  this  profit  being  se- 
cured on  this  fabric  which  is  selling 
for  20  cents  per  yard,  but  a  similar, 
or  approximately  similar  rate  of  profit 
is  being  secured  on  the  various  qual- 
ities of  rice  cloths  which  are  selling 
down  to  the  price  of  10  cents  per  yard. 
We  do  not  claim  that  this  high  profit 
is  a  usual  one,  because  it  is  not,  but 
the  situation  is  w^orth  discussing  from 
a  mill  standpoint,  and  because  a  large 
sale  is  going  to  take  place  it  is  de- 
sirable from  a  buyer's  standpoint.  It 
will  be  noted  that  w^e  have  given  ap- 
proximate selling  prices  for  the  con- 
verter and  retailer  when  sold  direct. 
Much  of  this  cloth  will  not  be  sold  in 
this  matter  and  undoubtedly  some  of 
the  best  grades  will  command  a  price 
of  at  least  $1  per  yard  at  retail.  Just 
how  long  conditions  will  remain  as 
they  are  and  these  high  profts  be  se- 
cured is  questionable,  but  most  mills 
can  produce  such  fabrics  and  will  not 
long  remain  passive  when  they  have 
looms  idle  for  the  want  of  orders. 

FINISHED  RESULTS. 
These  fabrics  are  practically  all 
made  from  grey  yarns  and  are  there- 
fore treated  to  the  processes  which 
are  customary  for  grey  cloths,  that  is, 
they  are  bleached  and  sold  in  the 
white  state,  and  in  other  instances 
are  dyed  any  solid  color  which  hap- 
pens to  be  desirable  from  a  buyer's 
viewpoint.  At  present  converters  are 
getting  out  lines  of  rice  cloths  which 
contain  small  printed  figures  or  in 
which  quite  a  large  portion  of  the 
ground  is  evident,  and  these  a^e  ex- 
pected to  have  a  very  large  distribu- 
tion. Due  to  the  fabric  construction 
and  method  of  making  they  are  never 
mercerized.    There  has  been  no  great 


attempt  as  yet  to  get  fabrics  out  to 
sell  at  a  price  because  there  has  been 
such  a  demand  that  mills  could  otten 
obtain  more  than  their  asking  prices, 
in  certain  cases  receiving  2  cents  at 
least  more  than  their  asking  price, 
which  naturally  would  contain  a 
rather  high 

RATE  OF  PROFIT. 

The  yarns  composing  these  fabrics 
have  not  been  manipulated  to  any 
great  extent  up  to  the  present,  but 
there  is  a  certain  amount  of  oppor- 
tunity for  producing  effects  which 
have  not  been  developed  as  yet. 
There  are  certain  effects  which  can- 
not be  produced  when  cloths  are  made 
from  yarns  such  as  are  used  in  the 
fabric  described.  The  fact  that  the 
material  is  different  from  what  has 
formerly  been  sold,  and  the  fact  that 
large  quantities  are  being  made  is 
sufficient  to  show  buyers  who  have 
not  purchased  any  that  they  are  los- 
ing the  chance  of  making  large  profits 
when   they   are   available. 

Any  cloth  which  shows  a 
very  high  rate  of  profit  to 
a  manufacturer  is  likely  to  show 
as  large,  or  a  larger,  rate  of  profit  to 
a  succeeding  seller,  and  imtil  com- 
petition develops  more  than  is  noted 
at  present  the  profits  will  be  very  sat- 
isfactory. After  the  novelty  yarn  size 
has  been  correctly  obtained  there  is 
no  great  difficulty  in  obtaining  the 
■weights  of  the  yarns  and  the  cost  of 
the  cloth. 

It  is  always  a  good  policy  to  obtain 
the  actual  novelty  yarn  size  through 
weighing  and  then  to  obtain  the  fig- 
ured j'arn  size  through  the  use  of 
take-UPS  and  the  yarns  used  in  its 
production.  Of  course,  it  is  necessary 
to  obtain  the  dptails  regarding  the 
novelty  yarn  size  in  order  to  obtain  a 
correct  cost,  but  the  knowing  of  cloth 
dPtails  is  not  only  of  interest  to  man- 
ufacturers and  buyers,  but  oftentimes 
is  of  great  value  in  obtaining  desir- 
able results.  The  various  weights  are 
obtained  as  follows: 

2.SS0  ercis    --    (.Sn/I     X    R40>    =    .0567,    weight 

of  5<^/\    warp   without    take-up. 
9"%    take-vin    In    wpivlnp. 
.0?67    -^    .91    =    .0fi23.    total    wplsrht    of    50/1 

wirp    ppr    varri    of    wovPti    r'oth. 
45"  reed  width  X  34  picks  X  36" 

=    1,530  yds. 

3fi- 

of  filllngr  per  yard  of  cletb. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


147 


1.530    -H    6,8S8    or    (8.20/1     X     840)     =    .2221. 

total     weight    of    novelty    flUing    per    yard 

of  cloth. 
.0623     +     .2221     =     .2844.    total     weight    per 

yard. 
1.0000    -h   .2844    =    3.52  yards   per   lb.    (grey). 


during  recent  years,  and  that  the  re- 
duced prices  would  make  a  large  sale 
possible,  making  such  materials  com- 
paratively    staple     in     fancy     goods. 


PATTERN. 
6C/1   Am.   combed   warp  40     2.300     40      =    2.3sn    totpl   ends. 
t.2  novelty  1  lling.  compoired  of  60/1  Am.  combed  and  86.6/1  Am.  carded;  14  ptekl 

26   reed,    45"    wiath    in    leeu.    4u"    gi  ev    wiain.    ia"    imisuea   wiath. 
59    X    34   giey  count;   62   X    34   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 

Cotton,      waste,  etc. 
5C/1   Am.  combed  warp;  1  5-16"  staple;  10  hank  dou.  rov.,  21c.  16  Vic. 

36.5/1   Am.   carded   warp;    l'^"  staple;   7%    hank  dou.   rov..        15 %c.  8c. 

NOVELTY   FILLING. 
I   end   50/1   ground  yarn,    take-up    in   twisting   27%. 
I  end  36.5/1   nub  or  loose  yarn,   take-up  In  twisting  71%. 
Relative   yarn    sizes  in   novelty    (50/1    =    36.5/1)    (36.5/1    =    10.585/1). 
36.5    X    10.585 

=      8.20,   novelty   size   when   twisted    (or   6,888   yards   per  lb.) 

36.5    -I-    10.585 

C.SS8    X    37MiC. 


laob. 


37 '/^c. 
23<^c. 


36 V4    X    840 
6.888    X    23%c. 


10.585  X  i40 


8.43c.   cost  of   50/1   In  lb.   of  novelty  yarn. 
18.21c.   cost   of  36  5/1  In  lb.   of  novelty  yarn. 


26.64c.     total  cost  of  material   per  lb.   of   novelty  yarn. 
3.50c.     cost  of  twisting,    experimentation,    etc. 


30.14c.    total   cost  of  novelty  yarn  per   lb. 

CLOTH   COST. 

2.380  ends  50/1  Am.    combed   warp    +    9%  take-up    

34   picks  S.20   novelt>    filling    

Weaving     

Expenses     


.=   .0623    @    37V4C.      =    $  .0234 

.=   .2221    @    301.4c.      =  .066'.' 

.0215 

.0093 


Selling     (grey)  , 


Mill    cost     

Mill  selling  price  to-day  (grey). 
Cost  of  bleaching  and  finishing. 
Converter's  expenses    


Cost  to   converter    (total    per    yard) 

Converter's  selling  price  to   retailer   (when  handled  dlre'cty  about 

Retail   price   (when   handled  direct)   up  from 

Plain   weave 

Yards   per  pound  3.52    rgrey). 

Mill  profit   at  least   $1S.75  per  loom  per  week,  or  about   $y37.50  per  loom   per  year. 

This  gives  a  rate  of  proht  of  approximately  117%. 


$  .1211 
.0025 

$  .1236 
.2000 
.0200 
.0260 

t  .'^460 
.3000 
.4600 


TDSSAH  BRCCHE 

The  line  of  fabrics  which  are  prob- 
ably of  as  great  Interest  to  buyers  of 
novelty  goods  as  any  others,  and  on 
which  quite  a  little  anxiety  has  been 
created  because  of  the  raw  silk  mar- 
ket is  that  line  of  cloths  which  con- 
tain silk  of  various  kinds.  Some  time 
ago  we  gave  a  description  of  a  silk 
and  cotton  mixture  material  stating 
that   the  prices  had  declined  greatly 


Various  conditions  have  been  respon- 
sible for  the  large  use  of  silk  and  cot- 
ton cloths,  but  it  is  only  recently  that 
the  style  and  the  finish  has  developed 
to  its  present  state.  Jacquard  pat- 
terns have  been  very  desirable  in  all 
kinds  of  silk  and  also  woolen  mate- 
rials and  the  same  condition  has  been 
more   or  less    true   in  cotton  goods. 

Inasmuch  as  the  combination  of  cot- 
ton and  silk  results  in  effects  not 
possible  in  all  cotton  fabrics  there  is 
a  very  good  reason  why  such  com- 
binations  should   be  made  at  present 


148 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


even  if  they  are  not  so  desirable  at 

otVier  timps.  Drpss  materials  have 
been  producerl  with  very  large  pat- 
terns, pnd  with  figures  not  ordinarily 
seen  the  prespnt  sppson.  and  the  fab- 
ric we  are  illustrating  shows  one  of 
the  radical  combination  materials 
which  are  being  used  quite  exten- 
sively for  dresses.  In  ordinary  sea- 
sons this  pattern  would  be  much  more 
desirable  for  other  purposes  than  for 
dresses,  but  nevertheless  style  is  be- 
coming of  such  great  importance  to 
consumers  that  the  cloth  construc- 
tion and  prices  even  are  of  less  im- 
portance than  formerly. 

It  was  believed  some  time  ago  that 
the  making  of  silk  and  cotton  fabrics 
by  cotton  mills  would  not  affect  great- 
ly the  production  of 

COMBINATION  MATERIALS 
in  silk  mills,  but  there  has  been  more 
or  less  trouble  because  of  this  pro- 
duction and  many  styles  which  were 
formerly  made  in  silk  mills  cannot 
longer  be  produced  by  such  manufac- 
turers because  the  prices  are  quite  a 
little  less,  partly  through  the  larger 
quantities  made,  the  great  economy 
practiced     and     the     lower     tinisnlng 

COSTS. 

These  mixture  materials  have  built 
up  a  field  of  their  own  to  a  large  ex- 
tent, which  is  separate  from  the  silk 
and  also  from  the  cotton  goods  trade, 
but  the  large  number  of  purchases  of 
such  goods  has  eliminated  a  portion 
of  the  silk  sales.  At  present  the  de- 
mand for  all  silk  fabrics  is  better  than 
it  ever  has  been  in  the  past,  but  were 
it  not  for  the  silk  mixture  materials, 
it  is  entirely  probable  that  the  de- 
mand for  all  silk  goods  could  not 
be  supplied.  Consumers'  tastes  have 
improved  so  fast  that  the  making  of 
these  goods  cannot  be  considered 
anything  but  a  great  advance  in  man- 
ufacture   and    distribution. 

There  are  various  items  of  interert 
in  regard  to  silk  and  cotton  fabrics. 
probably  the  item  of  greatest  inter- 
est being  noted  in  the  method  of  pro- 
ducing. When  cotton  mills  go  into 
the  making  of  silk  fabrics  extensively 
they  have  to  consider  various  produc- 
tion features  or  else  results  are  not 
as  satisfactory  as  they  may  be.    Cot- 


ton mills  have  been  planned  to  pro- 
duce cotton  fabrics  and  the  number  ol 
spindles  ins<^alled  for  the  making  of 
warp  and  filling  has  been  such  that 
thev  can  take  care  of  the  loom  pro- 
duction in  a  satisfactnrv  manner. 
Cotton  mills  have  practically  no  facili- 
ties for 

HANDLING  RAW  SILK, 
and  if  they  were  to  install  such  facili- 
ties it  would  be  quite  difficult  to  train 
the  operatives  when  they  are  not  used 
to  such  materials.  For  this  reason 
much  of  the  silk  which  is  used  in  cot- 
ton mills  has  to  be  purchased  in  a 
fnrm  roadv  for  use.  This  means  that 
the  fillins:  is  purchased  on  nuills  to 
use  in  the  weave  room  shutt^ps,  and 
that  warps  when  strines  or  silk  warps 
are  to  be  used  are  purchased  on  beams 
readv  to  be  drawn  into  the  harnpss. 

Through  the  purchase  of  silk  there 
are  a  certain  number  of  spindles 
wMob  have  been  opprntpd  on  cotton 
eliminated,  together  with  the  machin- 
erv  which  is  necessary  for  previously 
handling  the  cotton  stock.  Unless 
grpat  care  is  used  much  of  this  ma- 
chinery which  formerlv  operated  on 
cotton  yarn  will  be  idle,  and  if  costs 
are  not  considprpd  accuratPly  the 
rpsults  obtained  from  mixture  goods 
will  not  he  as  satisfac+orv  as  esti- 
matps  would  indicate.  Under  these 
conditions  it  is  a  good  plan  to  take 
ordprs  for  cotton  yarn  at  cost,  or  at 
a  small  profit  rather  than  to  allow  the 
machinery  to  remain  idle,  or  else  it 
is  a  good  plan  to  organize  a  new  com- 
panv  and  have  nothing  onlv  weaving 
machinerv  or  machinery  for  prepar- 
ing varn  for  weaving  machinery  in  the 
mill. 

Few  domestic  manufacturers  have 
adopted  this  latter  poMcv.  and 
naturallv.  have  hepn  compelled  to  sell 
yarns  or  let  their  machinprv  stand 
idle.  Keeping  all  the  machinery  in 
operation  or  making  the  organization 
balance  is  one  of  tl^e  most  important 
features  in  fancv  cloth  making  and  is 
one  of  the  fundamentals  wh'ph  is 
r^snopsible  for  success  or  failure. 
Cprtain  mills  which  have  so^d  a  good 
many  si^k  and  cotton  fabrics  have 
taken  orders  for  these  cloths  at  a 
good  profit  and  sold  up  all  their  spin- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


149 


ning  machinery  available  at  cost.  In 
some  cappR  mills  handling  silk  filling 
have  installed 

SILK  QUILLING   FRAMES, 

and  have  purchased  their  silk  on 
spools,  and  a  vpry  few  purchase  silk 
skeins.  There  is  no  great  advantage 
in  cost  in  purchasing  silk  on  spools 
rather  than  on  quills,  because  silk 
throwing  mills  are  not  anxious  to  sell 
silk  in  this  manner,  inasmuch  as  they 
have  spooling  machinery  and  are  just 
as  anxious  to  keep  their  machinery 
balanced  as  cotton  mills  are. 

The  advantage  of  having  silk  quill- 
ing irachinery  is,  however,  in  the 
smaller  percentage  of  loss  from  bad 
quills,  and  in  being  able  to  handle  the 
silk  as  desired,  often  on  somewhat 
larger  quills  than  silk  mills  are  used 
to  selling  it  on.  This  is  especially 
true  en  the  heavier  sizes  of  silk  such 
as  Tussah  and  similar  grades  rather 
than  on  the  finer  sizes  such  as  are 
used  in  the  lighter  silk  mixed  cloths. 

Many  manufacturers  who  have 
never  had  any  experipnce  with  silk 
cloths  have  been  prejudiced  against 
attempting  their  manufacture,  believ- 
ing that  a  great  deal  of  trouble  will 
arise,  and  that  the  costs  of  produc- 
tion will  not  be  as  low  as  are  indi- 
cated from  selling  prices.  For  vari- 
ous reasons  their  ideas  are  mistaken 
ones.  In  the  first  place  when  all  silk 
warps  are  used  and  the  operatives 
become  familiar  with  silk  yarn  it  is 
possible  to  start  up  warps  much 
quicker  and  have  much  less  loss  than 
when  all  cotton  Is  used.  Another 
thing  is  that  the  percentage  of  pro- 
duction is  in  a  Inrge  majority  of  in- 
stances quite  a  little  higher  than  when 
all   cotton   goods   are  being   made. 

This  is  partly  because  the  silk  is 

MORE  REGULAR  THAN  COTTON, 
and  also  stronger  and  fewer  break- 
ages occur  to  stop  the  looms.  For 
similar  styles  of  goods  it  is  practi- 
cally always  possible  to  operate  as 
many  looms  when  silk  is  used  as 
when  cotton  is  used,  and  this  makes 
the  cost  of  weaving,  together  with  ex- 
penses, at  least  no  more  than  when 
the  same  number  of  pick  cloths  of 
cotton  are  being  produced.    There  are 


certain  features  regarding  the  pur- 
chasing of  silk  which  have  to  be  con- 
sidered very  carefully.  Cotton  mill 
managers  are  familiar  with  cotton, 
but  they  are  not  so  familiar  with  the 
technical  features  of  cotton,  and  are 
many  of  them  almost  ignorant  regard- 
ing   silk. 

Due  to  the  afTinity  of  silk  for  water 
it  used  to  be  a  custom  with  some  silk 
sellers  to  weight  up  the  silk  with  this 
material  before  it  was  sold  for  cotton 
mill  use.  In  this  manner,  many  man- 
ufacturers were  forced  to  pay  a  large 
amount  per  pound  and  receive  a  much 
larger  percentage  of  water  than  they 
naturally  should.  There  are  some 
sellers  who  never  adopted  this  policy, 
but  when  low  quotations  were  form- 
erly named,  it  was  very  likely  that 
such  methods  had  been  adopted.  This 
is  one  reason  why  manufacturers 
should  do  business  with  silk  houses 
who  have  reputations  of  the  highest 
class. 

It  is  also  true  that  there  is  a  great 
variation  in  the  j'ardage  received  in 
various  sizes  of  silk.  Silk  manufac- 
turers are  many  of  them  accustomed 
to  making  tests,  or  having  them  made 
at  a  conditioning  house,  which  will 
determine  accurately  the  number  of 
yards  which  their  silk  purchases  will 
average,  but  this  is  not  noted  in  cot- 
ton establishments,  partly  because 
they  have  no  facilities,  and  partly 
because  their  purchases  of  silk  are 
often  likely  to  be  in  small  quan- 
tities when  compared  with  the  pur- 
chases of  silk  mills.  For  the  above 
reason  it  is  always  a  good  plan  for  a 
cotton  cloth  maker  to  size  his  silk  as 
accurately  as  possible  with  an  ordi- 
nary yarn  reel,  and  then  when  esti- 
mating his  cloth  weight  to  allow  a 
lower  yardage  for  the  silk  than  it  ac- 
tually contains  as  a  protection  against 
silk  variation. 

This  has  been  done  in  the  fabric 
which  has  been  analyzed,  a  lower 
yardage  being  given  than  the  silk  ac- 
tually sizes.  This  yardage  has  been 
used  in  the  cloth  estimates  as  55,000 
per  pound.  It  is  also  possible  to  quill 
silk  of  as  heavy  size  as  that  men- 
tioned on  ordinary  cotton  quills,  and 
in  this  manner  a  much  larger  percent- 


150 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


age  of  production  is  obtained  than 
when  small  silk  quills  are  used.  It 
often  makes  it  possible  for  more 
looms  per  weaver  to  be  operated,  and 
it  is  claimed  that  in  some  mills  more 
looms  are  operated  than  on  the  same 
kind  of  all  cotton  goods. 

An  interesting  feature  in  this  con- 
nection is  noted  from  the  development 
during  recent  years  in  the  making  of 
these  cloths.  Possibly  about  ten  years 
ago  the  greatest  number  of  looms  per 
weaver  on  silk  filling  cloths  such  as 
that  analyzed,  was  four.  Gradually 
this  number  was  increased  to  five,  and 
soon   afterward   weavers   vers   given 


of  many  fancy  dobby  patterns.  In 
a  single  cloth  such  as  that  consia- 
ered,  there  are  only  two  positions 
which  the  warp  or  filling  can  have, 
that  is,  it  can  be  either  on  the  face 
or  back,  but  it  must  be  either  one  or 
the  other,  and  not  both.  This  fabric 
is  of  interest  because  it  is  necessary 
to  have  two  warps  made  up  of  iden- 
tical yarn. 

This  is  because  of  the  weave  used, 
for  of  the  three  threads  which  form 
the  ground  weave  of  the  fabric,  one 
of  them  has  a  much  greater  take-up 
than  the  other  two,  which  are  drawn 
in     together     and     operate     as     one. 


Tussah    Broche 


six  looms  with  very  little  loss  in  pro- 
duction. Without  doubt,  six  looms 
could  have  been  operated  much  earlier 
than  they  were,  but  it  was  not  at- 
tempted because  of  unfamiliarity  with 
silk. 

To  anyone  not  familiar  with  manu- 
facturing the  most 

INTERESTING  FEATURE 
of  a  fancy  cloth,  such  as  that  consid- 
ered is  the  weave,  and  for  this  reason 
it  may  be  well  to  give  a  short  descrip- 
tion regarding  this  item.  In  the  first 
place  it  may  be  well  to  state  that  the 
actual  making  of  meny  of  these  so- 
called  fancy  jacquard  weaves,  in 
which  silk  filling  is  used,  is  a  much 
more  simple  process,  than  the  making 


This  will  be  noted  from  the  analysis 
which  we  have  given.  Due  to  the 
weave  there  will  be  three  threads 
drawn  in  each  dent  of  the  reed 
throughout  the  entire  cloth,  instead 
of  the  two  threads  so  often  noted.  The 
first  nroppss  in  making:  a  pattprn.  siioh 
as  that  illustrated,  is  to  make  a  cloth 
sketch  exactly  as  it  will  appear  when 
the  fabric  is  woven. 

Often  this  cloth  sketch  is  made  by 
the  styler  in  the  employ  of  the  buyer, 
while  at  other  times  the  sketches  are 
produced  by  parties  who  do  nothing 
else,  and  sometimes  the  sketches  are 
frofluced  at  tbe  mill  from  ideas  given 
by  buyers  or  obtained  from  other  ma- 
terials.   It  is  not  always  possible  in  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


int 


cloth  sketch,  which  has  been 
painted,  to  introd  jce  some  of 
tlie  features  which  n^ay  be 
desirable  in  the  cloth  pattern,  but 
usually  the  idea  can  be  worked  out 
so  as  to  be  satisfactory.  When  this 
cloth  sketch  has  been  completed,  it 
is  ruled  up  into  divisions  to  correspond 
with  the  fabric  construction.  This 
is  explained  as  follows:  A  400- jac- 
quard  head  contains  50  rows  of  hooks, 
with  eight  hooks  in  a  row,  making  a 
total  of  400  hooks.  These  hooks  are 
connected  to  harness  cords  and  are 
placed  in  a  board  on  the  loom  which 
contains  small  holes  in  regular  order 
in  the  number  decided  when  the  loom 
is  installed. 

If  a  cloth  is  desired  in  which  only 
360  hooks  of  the  400  are  to  be  used, 
then  there  will  be  of  the  50  rows  of 
hooks  in  the  total  machine,  only  45  in 
use.  The  five  remaining  rows  of 
hooks,  which  are  not  in  use,  will  not 
have  any  threads  drawn  in  them 
and  will  remain  idle.  In  this  case 
given  above  the  design  or  cloth  sketch 
will  be  ruled  up  into  45  equal  parts. 
When  this  has  been  done  the  correct 
design  paper  to  use  will  be  ascer- 
tained. For  a  400-machine  with 
eight  hooks  in  a  row  there  must  be 
a  design  or  point  paper  with  eight 
squares  in  it  in  one  direction  used. 
The  squares  in  the  other  direction,  or 
filling,  will  correspond  to  the  cloth 
count  when  finished,  and  for  the  cloth 
in  question  the  paper  would  be  8  by 
5,   which   is   the   nearest   size. 

When  the  size  of  the  design  paper 
or  point  paper,  as  it  is  often  called, 
is  ascertained  the  cloth  sketch  is 
transferred  to  the  larger  paper,  plac- 
ing upon  this  paper  only  the  outlines 
of  the  various  figures  so  as  to  appear 
in  the  best  maaner  possible.  When 
the  outlines  have  been  drawn  the 
weave     is     painted     in.      This     is     a 

TEDIOUS  PROCEEDING 

in  a  good  many  cases,  but  it  is  not 
especially  difficult  for  many  styles  of 
fabrics.  It  may  be  well  to  mention, 
however,  that  it  is  the  small  details 
which  are  carefully  worked  out  in  the 
making  of  designs  which  produce  de- 
sirable results.     We  have  often  seen 


designs,  which  would  have  otherwise 
been  attractive,  entirely  spoiled  be- 
cause enough  care  had  not  been  used 
in  transferring  the  patterns  or  in 
painting  the  weave. 

When  the  weave  has  been  entirely 
painted  in,  the  design  is  given  to  the 
card  cutter,  who  cuts  the  weave  on 
the  cards  as  indicated,  a  single  pick 
across  the  design  being  represented 
by  a  single  card.  When  a  hole  is 
punched  in  the  card  it  allows  the 
needle  at  the  top  of  the  jacquard 
frame  to  remain  in  place,  and  will 
cause  the  thread  in  such  hook  to  be 
lifted,  W'hereas  if  no  hole  is  cut  the 
needle  will  be  pushed  back,  and  the 
hook  will  remain  down  with  the  filling 
or  shuttle  passing  above  the  warp 
thread.  When  the  cards  are  all  cut, 
one  for  each  pick  in  the  design,  they 
are  taken  and  laced  together,  some- 
times by  hand,  but  more  often  by  ma- 
chine, a  machine  which  acts  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner  to  an  ordinary  sewing 
machine.  When  this  process  has  been 
completed  the  cards  are  placed  on  the 
loom  and  are  in  a  condition  to  weave 
the  rloth.  The  pntirp  nrncess  is  very 
simple,  but  the  multiplicity  of  details 
often  confuses  those  who  are  not 
familiar  with  manufacturing  proc- 
esses. 

Most  of  the  patterns  in  silk  and  cot- 
ton goods  are  made  with  the  silk  fig- 
ure on  the 

FACE  OF  THE  CLOTH. 
When  silk  filling  is  used  this  means 
that  filling  float  patterns  are  em- 
ployed extensively,  and  when  silk 
warp  is  used  that  warp  effects  pre- 
dominate. Of  course  in  certain  in- 
stances, both  warp  and  filling  combi- 
nations are  used  in  order  to  produce 
certain  effects,  but  the  above  state- 
ment refers  to  the  majority  of  styles. 
One  of  the  conditions  which  is  causing 
a  great  deal  of  diflficulty  in  the  making 
of  bilk  and  cotton  fabrics  is  that  the 
price  of  silk  has  advanced  radically 
during  recent  months.  When  cotton 
manufacturers  developed  styles  for 
next  spring's  use  they  were  able  to 
obtain  silk  at  much  lower  quotations 
than  they  are  at  present,  and  buyers 
expected  to  obtain  cloth  at  the  quo- 
tations which  were  made  on  the  orig- 


m 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


inal  orders,  but  this  has  not 
been  possible,  and  advances  have 
been  necessary,  so  much  so  that  many 
lines  have  been  eliminated  or  made 
much  less  desirable  from  a  buyer's 
standpoint. 

The  finishing  of  silk  and  cotton 
goods  is  one  of  the  items  which  has 
been  responsible  for  the  enormously 
Increased  sale.  The  styles  which  were 
produced  a  few  years  ago  would  hard- 
ly be  taken  as  the  same  construction 
with  the  finish  which  is  applied  to- 
day. When  combination  materials  are 
bleached  it  must  be  done  by  a  process 
which  will  not  harm  either  fibre,  and 
it  is  impossible  to  use  the  ordinary 
lime  bleach  which  is  generally  used  in 
all  cotton  establishments.  Another 
item  of  interest  is  in  regard  to  the 
silk  yarn  which  has  been  used.  All 
kinds  of  silk  contain  a  greater  or 
less  proportion  of  gum  when  in  their 
raw  state,  and  the  boiling  and  bleach- 
ing processes  used  in  finishing  elim- 
inate quite  a  large  portion  of  this 
gum. 

SILK   FINISHERS 

are  likely  to  replace  a  portion  of  this 
gum  when  they  finish  silk  cloths,  but 
on  most  of  the  combination  materials 
this  is  not  done,  and  is  responsible  for 
the  greater  yardage  of  silk  per  pound 
when  the  cloth  is  sold  than  when  the 
cloth  is  woven;  in  other  words,  fin- 
ishers of  cotton  goods  are  not  accus- 
tomed to  add  weighting  in  a  similar 
manner  to  that  employed  by  silk  fin- 
ishers or  dyers.  Possibly  one  of  the 
reasons  why  the  silk  and  cotton  fab- 
rics have  been  desirable  to  buyers 
has  been  because  of  the  variety  which 
could  be  obtained  in  the  finishing  of 
the  cloth.  Due  to  the  character  of  the 
material  used,  namely,  cotton  and  silk, 
it  is  possible  to  dye  the  cloth  any  solid 
color  and  in  addition  it  is  possible  to 
dye  the  cotton  a  certain  color  and 
allow  the  silk  yarn  in  the  material  to 
remain  white. 


Some  finishers  are  more  successful 
in  obtaining  clear  whites  than  others, 
but  nevertheless  results     can  be     ob- 
tained which  are  commercially  satis- 
factory.    In  addition  to  the  above,  it 
is  possible  to  dye  the  cotton  yarn  in 
the  fabric   one   color  and   to   dye   the 
silk   yarn   in    the  fabric   another   dis- 
tinctly different  color.     This  has  been 
done  in  the  fabric  which     has     been 
analyzed,   and    makes   it  possible     to 
show  up  the  figure  much  more  effec- 
tively.    The  various  finishing  methods 
make  it  possible  for  a   converter     or 
buyer  to  offer  a  greater  variety  of  re- 
sults even  though     the     grey     cloths 
were    all    identical.      Consumers     de- 
mand more  variety  than  ever  before 
and  combination  materials  have  been 
partly   responsible   for   supplying   this 
GREATER  VARIETY. 
In  obtaining  the  correct  weights  in 
a   fabric  of  this  character,  it  is  nec- 
essary to  obtain  accurately  the  take- 
ups  on  the  various  warps.     Only  ex- 
perience  can   determine   what   size  of 
silk  is  correct  to  use  for  any  silk  yarn, 
although   the     use     of     a     somewhat 
coarser    size    than   the   yarn    actually 
is  will  give  a  certain  amount  of  pro- 
tection.    When  the  finished  yarn  sizes 
are   obtained    accurately,     and     their 
probable    grey   sizes    estimated,    it    is 
easy  enough  to  obtain  the  weights  of 
the  yarns  used  and  the  weight  of  the 
woven  fabric.     The  process  is  as  fol- 
lows : 

2,152   ends    H-    (30/1    X    840)    =    .0854,   weight 

of    30/1    gro\ind     wiirp     without    take-up. 
3%     take-up     in     weaving. 
.0854    -r-  .ItT    =   .0881,   total   weight  per  woven 

yard   of   30/1    giound    warp. 
1.116   ends    h-    (30/1    X    840)    =    .0443.    weight 

of    30/1    top    waip    without    take-up. 
8%    take   up    In    we;  vii;g. 
.0443      H-     .92      =      .0482.      total      weight     per 

woven    yard    of    30/1    top    warp. 
74  picks  X  26  1/2"  reed  widtli   X  36" 


?G" 


1,961 


yards    of    filling    per    woven    v.nrd. 
1.961    -f-    So. 000  yards    per    lb.    (silk)    =    .0357, 

total    weight    ol    siik    per    woven    yard. 
.0881    +    .0482    -f    .0357    =-   .1720,    total   weight 

per  woven    yard. 
1.0000    -t-   .1720   <«    6.82   yds.    per  lb.    (grey). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


163 


PATTERN. 
3C/1   Air,     carded  watp  2  2,152   Beam   1. 

2  2 

S'/l    Am.   caifled   \va<p     —     1  —     =      1,116   Beam   2. 

lO  10 

l.()7(i  X  S.26S    total   ends. 

3:;/38   2-thiPad   Tus--ah  i-lik.      74  picks. 

il  jeeU.   2b'/i:"   wJiitl)    in    reed,    25V4--6"   grey   width,    25'/4"   finished   wiJlh 
123    X    73   flnished   count. 

YARN. 

Labor, 
Cotton.        waste,  etc. 
?0/l    Am     cnided   warp;   I'/io"  staple:   C  hank  dou.   rov.,  14c.  6Vic.  =   $   .20% 

32/3S   2-tlii  eail  Tussali  Hiik,  on  quills  ready   for  loom =      2.35 

COST. 

2  152  end.-  SO/1  Am.  carded  warp   +   3%  take  up =   .OSSl    @    {  .30%      =   $  .0269 

1  liG  ends  "n/l   Aui.  carded   warp   +   i,%   take-up =   .0^82    @        .30%      =        .0147 

74    pltks  32/SR   2-thread  Tussah  silk =   .0357    ©      2.35  =        .0839 

Weaving      013i 

Kxpenses     0182 

$  .1571 
Selling   (grey) 0032 

%  .1603 

Mil'    selling    price    to-day    fabout) 1775 

Cost   ot   liyeitig.    finishing,    etc 0300 

t-Ltiverter  s   expenses    0225 

P/'.<e   10    iol'l  er    2750 

P.  ice   to    i  etfiilei     325C 

t^,  tf.e   to    con^unipr    , 4600 

lards  per  pcuna  5  £2    (ffrey). 

■♦  «  » 


WOVEN  SEERSUCKER  STRIPE 

One  line  of  fabrics  which  has  not 
been  in  very  large  demand  for  a  num- 
ber of  years  past,  but  which  recently 
has  been  selling  in  large  quantities, 
is  that  line  ordinarily  known  as  seer- 
suckers. It  must  not  be  supposed 
that  these  cloths  do  not  have  a  more 
or  less  regular  distribution,  but  as  is 
the  case  with  other  materials,  there 
are  certain  times  when  the  demand  is 
much  larger  than  usual.  Most  of 
such  fabrics  are  desirable  for  many 
uses  such  as  dresses,  waists,  rompers, 
children's  garments  and  various  other 
purposes.  Generally  they  are  firm 
fabrics  and  will  return  quite  a 
large  amount  of  value,  inasmuch  as 
they  are  woven  with  comparatively 
coarse  yarns  and  are  of  heavy  weight. 

ONE  OF  THE  GREAT  ADVANTAGES 
of  these  fabrics  is  that  they  do  not 
have  to  be  ironed  similar  to  most 
other  materials  after  they  have  been 
washed.  The  nature  of  the  cloth  per- 
mits this  process  to  be  dispensed  with, 
and  therefore  makes  the  material 
suitable  for  many  uses  where  washing 
can  be  accomplished  but  where  there 
is   little   opportunity   for   any   ironing 


process.  There  are  two  distinct  class- 
es of  woven  seersucker  materials. 
First,  that  class  which  is  made  from 
carded  yarns,  and,  in  the  ma- 
jority of  instances,  contains  more  or 
less  colored  yarn,  and  second,  that 
class  of  fabrics  which  is  woven  from 
grey  yarns  and  may  be  produc- 
ed from  either  carded  or  combed 
stock  and  sold  in  the  white  state  or 
may  be  piece  dyed. 

Of  course,  it  is  possible  to  produce 
the  first  class  of  fabrics  mentioned 
from  combed  stock,  but,  due  to  com- 
petition in  price  and  various  other 
features,  it  is  seldom  done.  Without 
question,  the  second  class  of  fabrics 
returns  much  more  value  than  the 
first  class,  but  it  has  often  happened 
that  the  style  of  this  class  of  materials 
has  been  somewhat  lacking,  due  to  the 
absence  of  color.  To-day  this  is  not 
so  necessary,  inasmuch  as  colors  fast 
to  bleaching  can  be  used,  although  up 
to  the  present  few  of  such  fabrics 
liave  been  made.     The 

NOTICEABLE  FEATURE 
of  these  seersucker  fabrics  Is  the 
crinkled  appearance  of  a  portion  of 
the  cloth.  This  crinkled  portion  is, 
in  all  the  fabrics  we  have  mentioned, 
a  woven  one,   will  not  pull  out  and 


154 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


might  be  said  to  be  permanent.  The 
degree  of  crinkle  will  vary  in  difter- 
ent  fabrics,  depending  upon  tlie  cloth 
construction  and  certain  features  in 
making.  The  effect  is  produced  in  the 
following  manner:  In  ordinary  tabric 
weaving  the  beam  upon  which  the 
warp  yarn  is  placed  is  held  quite 
tightly,  either  through  weights  or  in 
some  other  manner.  This  beam  is  let 
off  either  mechanically  or  through 
friction,  so  that  as  the  reed  forces  the 
picks  into  the  cloth,  enough  yarn  is 
pulled  off  to  allow  for  the  weaving  of 
the  fabric. 

This  above  condition  is  noted  upon 
one  of  the  beams  used  in  making  a 
seersucker  fabric,  and  is  the  portion 
of  the  warp  in  which  there  is  no 
crinkle.  For  the  crinkle  portion,  an 
extra  beam  is  necessary,  and  there  is 
very  little  weight  used  upon  such 
beam,  so  that  as  the  reed  forces  the 
picks  into  the  cloth  it  also  pulls  down 


without  the  use  of  extra  yarn,  but  they 
are  not  likely  to  be  so  satisfactory  as 
wiiere  extra  yarn  is  used.  Not  only 
does  the  e.xtra  yarn  cause  more  friction 
with  a  greater  yarn  let-off,  but  it  also 
makes  that  portion  of  the  fabric 
where  the  crinkle  is  produced  more 
prominent,    due   to 

ITS    HEAVIER    CHARACTER. 

In  our  analysis  we  have  given  two 
different  layouts  for  the  warp  pat- 
terns, the  first  one  being  that  which 
relates  to  the  different  colors  and 
their  arrangement  in  the  cloth.  The 
second  is  the  method  of  placing  the 
yarn  on  the  beam.  The  ground  beam 
contains  both  white  and  colored  yarn, 
for  the  take-ups  on  these  ground 
yarns  are  identical.  The  second  beam 
contains  the  crinkle  iarn,  upon  which 
there  is  a  much  greater  take-up.  With 
these  two  layouts  there  should  be  no 
great    dificulty    in    determining    just 


Woven   Seersucker  Stripe. 


a  certain  amount  of  yarn,  which  extra 
yarn  creates  the  crinkle  in  the  fabric. 
There  are  other  reasons  why  the 
crinkle  is  formed,  one  of  them  being 
the  fact  that  extra  yarn  is  used  in 
the  stripe  where  the  crinkle  is  made. 
This  extra  yarn  causes  greater  fric- 
tion and  makes  the  effect  more  prom- 
inent. 
Crinkle    effects    can    be    produced 


the  method  which  is  used  in  making 
the  cloth  pattern. 

In  addition  to  the  layouts  as  given, 
we  are  presenting  the  fabric  weave 
as  it  appears  in  the  cloth.  It  will  be 
noted  that  certain  threads  weave  dif- 
ferently than  others.  In  some  in- 
stances a  basket  weave  Is  used,  in 
others  a  plain  weave,  while  in  still 
other  instances  the  threads  weave  as 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


155 


plain,  with  the  exception  that  instead 
oJ:  a  single  thread  there  are  two  along- 
side wnith  worit  iueuucal.  Under- 
neath tne  design  we  nave  given  the 
reeding  plan,  which  indicates  the 
number  ol  threads  to  be  drawn 
in  each  dent  in  the  reed,  it  wui  be 
noted  that  where  the  threads  weave 
otherwise  than  the  ordinary  plain 
weave  they  are  drawn  tonr  tiireads  in 
a  dent.  The  obtaining  of  desirable 
results  in  many  varieties  of  cioin  is 
partly  due  to  the  correct  placing  of 
the  threads  in  the  reed.  It  often  hap- 
pens that  through 

A  CORRECT  METHOD 
satin  stripes  can  be  woven  from  the 
same  beam  as  ground  threads  of  a 
plain  character  and  at  other  times  in- 
correct reeding  will  cause  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  in  cloth  making. 

Sometimes,  the  percentage  of  pro- 
duction will  be  unreasonably  low,  just 
because  enough  attention  has  not 
been  given  to  this  feature  of  cloth 
planning.  In  drawing  in  a  fabric  of 
the  character  analyzed,  it  is  possible 
to  use  two  methods,  the  first  where  a 
single  thread  is  arawu  in  every  heddle, 
even  though  some  of  them  work  the 
same  as  those  alongside.  The  second 
method  is  where  two  threads  are 
drawn  in  the  same  heddle  whenever 
they  operate  in  the  same  manner. 
This  latter  method  is  the  one  gener- 
ally employed,  although  in  a  certain 
few  instances  it  nas  oeen  rouna  more 
desirable  to  use  the  first  method. 
One  reason  why  the  second  method  is 
better  is  because  it  decreases  the 
number  of  heddles  necessary  and  al- 
lows more  space  for  the  threads  or 
harnesses  to  operate  as  the  cloth  is 
being  woven.  When  this  method  is 
taken  it  is,  however,  possible  for 
single  threads  to  weave  in  the  heddles 
wnere  mere  snouia  be  two  threads 
bein^   used. 

Without  doubt  the  sale  of  woven 
crinkle  effects  would  have  been  much 
larger  than  it  has  been;  in  fact,  it  is 
believed  that  the  sale  would  have 
been  very  much  larger  than  it  ever 
has  in  the  past,  were  it  not  for  the 
fact  that  many  somewhat  similar  ef- 
fects have  been  produced  during  the 
last  two  years  by  other  methods  than 
weaving.    Inasmuch  as  many  consider 


this  second  class  of  fabrics  on  the 
same  basis  as  the  ones  previously 
mentioned,  it  may  be  well  to  give  a 
short  description  regarding  them  and 
their  nietliods  of  making.  These  lat- 
ter materials  are  not  pioduced  by  the 
weaving   piocess,   that   is, 

THE    CRINKLE    EFFECT 

is  not  produced  in  such  manner. 
Most  manuiacturers  and  practically 
all  converters  and  finishers  are  fa- 
miliar with  the  fact  that  the  mer- 
cerization  process  will  cause  quite  a 
large  cloth  shrinkage  if  it  is  used  an.l 
the  fabric  not  held  out  tightly. 

It  is  upon  this  contraction  that  the 
printed  crinkle  effects  are  obtained. 
Upon  certain  portions  of  the  fabric, 
by  methods  somewhat  similar  to  the 
ordinary  ones  used  in  making  printed 
patterns,  is  placed  a  solution  of  caus- 
tic soda.  This  solution  causes  the 
fabric  to  shrink  radically  where  it  is 
applied,  and  when  this  shrinkage 
occurs  it  causes  the  remainder  of  the 
fabric  to  crinkle  up  and  makes  the 
effects  which  are  not  used  so  exten- 
sively. On  this  style  of  fabric  vari- 
ous printed  patterns  can  be  placed  in 
different  colors,  and  the  large  sale 
has  been  possible  because  the  fab- 
rics are  desirable,  not  only  because 
of  style  but  also  because  of  a  com- 
paratively  low   price. 

Finishers  who  handle  fabrics  of 
this  character  demand  a  23  per  cent 
working  loss,  which  is  about  the  ex- 
treme amount  of  snnnkage  that 
mercerization  is  likely  to  cause,  but 
it  has  been  found  that  on  ruost  lines 
of  these  cloths  the  loss  to  a  converter 
because  of  shrinkage  will  be  about 
18  per  cent,  though  in  some  few  in- 
stances it  has  run  as  high  as  20  per 
cent.  This  loss  in  shrinkage  is  a  se- 
rious matter  to  the  converter  and 
must  be  accurately  known  if  a  correct 
cloth  price  be  obtained.  When  a  fab- 
ric loses  in  length  anywhere  from  a 
fifth  to  a  sixth  it  na^'urally  makes  the 
value  of  the  material  just  that 
amount  greater  than  it  previously 
was,  for  it  increases  the  number  of 
picks  per  inch  the  relative  amount 
named. 

The  fabric  analvzed,  and  which.  a<? 
sta'^^d  nr'>Tion«!lv,  is  a  woven  eff^r-t  fc 
produced  in  large  quantities  regularly. 


156 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  retail  price  is  15  cents  per  yard, 
thus  allowing  the  regular  distribution 
prices  to  be  noted,  it  is  seldom  that 
retailers  can  purchase  such  a  fabric 
at  less  than  10  V^  cents  per  yard,  and 
it  is  almost  impossible  for  jobbers  to 
force  retailers  to  pay  over  11  cents 
per  yard  for  this  sort  of  fabric.  The 
commission  house  price  on  the  cloth 
is  about  91/i  cents  per  yard.  Retail 
prices  show  a  much  smaller  advance 
over  the  cost  of  production  on  fabrics 
of  this  character  than  they  do  on  most 
other  lines  of  fancy  fabrics.  This  is 
because  the  materials  are  produced  in 
large  quantities,  making  it  possible 
for  satisfactory  returns  to  be  obtained 
because  of  large  quantities  sok  rather 
than  high  profit  through  the  sale  of 
small    amounts. 

One  of  the  great  advantages  in  a 
mill  producing  a  fabric  of  the  char- 
acter described  is  that  a  great  va- 
riety of  results  can  be  obtained,  even 
though  the  cloth  construction  does 
not  vary  widely.  In  all  these  cloths 
the  construction  is  identical,  so  far 
as  the  count  in  the  ground  cloth  is 
concerned,  although  there  is  a  small 
variation  in  warp  count,  cue  to  the 
different  arrangement  of  crinkle 
stripes.  The  effects  are  obtained 
through  the  color  arrangements  and 
the  different  spacings  and  arrange- 
ments of  crinkle  stripes  and  not 
through  the  variation  in  yarn  size 
which  is  necessary  in  other  styles  of 
fancy  fabrics  made  from  grey  yarns. 

One  of  the  features  which  has  been 
of  decided  advantage  in  the  produc- 
tion of  printed  crinkle  effects  is  that 
there  has  been  a  great  variety  of  re- 
sults possible,  due  to  printed  patterns 
and  different  arrangements  of  stripes. 
While  different  effects  are  possible  in 
greater  or  less  amount  on  many  styles 
of  plain  fabrics  it  is  not  often  that  the 
variety  possible  is  as  g^^pat  as  is  noted 
on  the  printed  crinkle  materials. 
Sellers  all  desire  to 

PURCHASE  LARGE  AMOUNTS 
of  1  ground  fabric,  for  in  this  manner 
they  can  obtain  very  low  prices,  but 
nnless  the  ground  o^oth  can  be  fin- 
ished in  manv  attractive  wavs  which 
ire  in  demand  at  the  time,  it  is  not 
Always  a  good  policy  to  make  large 
pnrchaseB. 


In  the  majority  of  instances  the 
yarns  used  in  the  making  of  woven 
crinkle  effects,  where  colors  are  used, 
are  in  the  vicinity  of  30-1  warp  and 
40-1  to  45-1  filling.  Of  course,  there 
are  some  finer  lines  than  that  men- 
tioned produced,  but  their  sale  is 
comparatively  small  when  tlie  total 
distribution  is  considered.  One  ol3 
the  great  objections  to  all  fabrics 
which  are  made  from  bleached  and 
dyed  yarns  is  that  their  appearance 
is  not  so  regular  as  cloths  which  have 
been  produced  from  grey  yarns  and 
then  are  afterward  finished  or  dyed. 
The  picks  in  fabrics  woven  from 
bleached  and  dyed  yarns  are  not 
worked  into  their  positions  so  smooth- 
ly as  those  which  are  finished  after 
being  woven,  and  often  the  reed 
marks  show  in  such  a  prominent  way 
that  much  of  the  desirable  fabric  ef- 
fect is  lost. 

It  is  true  that  some  styles  of  grey 
yarn  fabrics  show  reed  marks  after 
they  have  been  finished,  but  the  num- 
ber is  so  small  in  comparison  to  fab- 
rics made  of  bleached  yarn,  that  it  is 
not  worth  while  considering  them.  It 
is  believed  that  manufacturers  could 
have  done  much  more  with  crinkle 
effects  produced  from  grey  yarns  and 
with  a  certain  amount  of  fast  color 
used  in  their  construction  than  they 
have  done.  Profits  are  often  quite 
large  through  ti^^e  adoption  of  methods 
not  in  general  use  and  makers  should 
allow  no  opportunities  to  slip  past 
without  making  the  most  of  them. 
Possibly  one  of  the  greatest  advan- 
tages in   making  these 

CLOTHS  FROM  GREY  YARNS 

Is  that  which  is  noted  in  most  other 
styles  of  fabrics,  and  is  that  fine  grey 
yarns  can  be  handled  much  more  sat- 
isfactorily and  at  a  much  smaller 
relative  cost  than  bleached  yarns  of 
the  same  character.  In  the  majority 
of  instances  it  is  not  possible  for  col- 
ored yarn  mills  to  handle  yarns  much 
finer  than  50-1,  while  this  is  a  com- 
parativelv  low  count  for  many  grey 
cloth  maVers. 

Thp  d'fficuUl^s  in  weaving  are  not 
especially  prominent,  but  It  Is  not 
possible  for  a  weaver  to  operate  as 
many  looms  on  constructions  such  as 
that    analyzed,    as    it    la    on    similar 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


167 


classes  of  ginghams,  or  shirting 
stripes.  Tlie  uueveu  tension  on  the 
top  beam,  and  the  tact  that  the 
thieads  are  reeded  quite  closely  in 
the  dent  where  the  crinkle  is  pro- 
duced is  likely  to  cause  a  certain 
amount  of  trouble,  though  not  of  an 
especially  serious  nature.  Whenever 
a  fabric  is  produced  which  has  a  more 
or  less  staple  sale,  and  where  it  is 
axpected  to  operate  looms  continu- 
ously in  the  production,  it  is  a  paying 


distributed    unless     this     method    is 
taken. 

It  is  possible  to  sell  a  certain 
amount  of  cloth  of  a  staple  nature 
without  advertising,  but  this  amount 
will  be  neitlier  regular  nor  will  it  be 
large  enough  to  supply  the  looms  with 
orders.  Sometimes  the  amounts  ex 
pended  for  advertising  purposes  ap- 
pear large,  but  when  they  are  dis- 
tributed over  the  whole  cloth  produc- 
tion   they    are    often    of   a   negligible 


avDanaDDaBaBDRDaDaaaHanHBDDaaDDaBnDBHDaaaGBDBDBaaaGBBDBDBca 
mOitiJmzi . Dm  ■  auaaiiakU.  auu «a„u«aL^DBiiULjaitui_awu.  iiUfiLt.GB.LLDktiiiLBLBD 

GlkUaL.BftBaGUIiLBGBCaaGBaaLjBBDUkBUaBBDOBkDGMBGl>La  ^t>._HlbBG.  LkLB  M 
BGHGB  .aiiGU*uBL.aGBGaBGakaGGK*GGkBGGBtaGGIiaGuaGaLaLBGa  GGBLhGBG 
GaGaGBG^aBGa.  BGBGkaGkBGGBaGGIlBGGBaGGkaGGKIiGflGBGiiGMGL  aBGftGBGB 
BGBDMLGGBkilGaGMGiGaaGGaB  GBbGGBBGG  >  GGbBGGaGkGBG-' GGCkB  GAGBD 
GBG 'GllMflGGGHGaGBa..GG.aGLBaGGiiBGGBaGGaa    G.BG  ^  GaGkOkMi- GGG'  GBGM 

BGaaaGBaGGBGBGaG<taBBGGa«uuaaGG<taaGaaGaaaGGaaAaaaMGafcGGBGBGBD 


proposition  to  advertise  the  fabrics 
and  create  a  demand  for  them.  It  is 
certain  that  to-day  there  are  very 
few   lines   which   can  be  successfully 


quantity.  In  certain  instances  it  has 
been  positively  proven  that  lower 
quality  goods  can  be  sjld  successfully 
when  they  are  sufhciently  advertised. 


30/1  Am.  carded  warp  brown 
30/1  Am.  carded  warp  white 

80/1  Am.  carded  warp.   Beam  1. 
JO/1  Am.  carded  warp.   Beam  2. 


PATTERN — COLORS 
I      I2|      |2|      I 
I      I— 1121— I      I  2 
I      I  2  I      12  1 


1 

2)      12 

1 

1 
1 

2 

—(121— 
2  1      12 

1 

|i! 

1      1 

1  2 

1— 

6 

12 

1      1 

1  6 

40  X 

PATTERN— BEAMS. 


2,444  total  ends. 


2 

2 

28 

8 

20 

— 

6 

2 
12 

6 

1,484     Beam  1. 


=       960     Beam   2. 


40  X 

40/1  Am.  carded  filling,   white;   00  picks. 
29   reed,   30   5-fi"  width   in   reed.   28"  finished  width. 
87    X    60   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

80/1   Am.  carded   white,   IMn"  staple;   6  hank  dou.   rov., 
30/1   Am.  carded  colored.    IVi,,"  staple;   6  hank  dou.   rov.. 
40/1  Am.  carded  white,   1%"  staple;  8^4   hank  dou.   rov.. 


Cotton. 
13%c. 
13%c. 
14  Vie 


T^abor, 
waste,  etc. 
lie. 
lOMsC. 
13?4c. 


980  ends  30/1  Am.  cardpd  brown 
504  ends  30/1  Am.  carde-:!  white 
960  ends  30/1  Am.  carded  white 
60    picks  40/1    .\m.   raided   white 

We  iving    

Expenses     


COST. 
+    6%   take-up. 
4-    *)%    tako-up. 
+  29%  take-up. 


,  =   .0414  (d)    30 He. 

.=    .11213  (O)    24'^c. 

.=   .0537  ®    24S4C. 

.  =--    .0551  @    28 '4c. 


24%c. 
30Vic. 

28«4c. 


9  .0126 
.0053 
0133 
.0156 
.0105 
.0138 


Finishing,    etc. 
Selling     


$  .0711 
.0040 


$  .0751 
.0037 


Commission   price 
Jobber's    price    .  .  . 

_  Retnll    price    

Yards  per  pound,   6.83. 


t  .078.' 
.0925 
.1050 
.160* 


158 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


It  is  not  an  especially  good  policy  to 
advertise  goods  and  sell  them  because 
they  are  cheaper,  and  contain  less 
\a.ue  than  others,  but  the  instance 
shows  how  much  influence  advertis- 
ing has  in  the  distribution  of  fabrics 
such  as  that  considered.  There  is  no 
great  difficulty  in  obtaining  the 
w-eights  of  the  various  yarns  used  to- 
gether with  the  weight  of  the  cloth. 
The  methods  employed  are  exactly 
the  same  as  for  any  ordinary  fabric, 
the  main  item  of  Importance  being 
to  obtain  accurately  the  take-ups  on 
the  warp  yarns.  In  the  fabric  ana- 
lyzed the  take-up  on  the  crinkle  por- 
tion was  29  per  cent,  or  23  per  cent 
more  than  the  ground  cloth.  The  re- 
sults are  obtained  as  follows: 

980    ends    -f-    (30/1    X    840)    =    .0389.    weight 

of   brown   w;irp   without  take-up. 
6%    take-up   in   weaving- 
.0389    ^     .94    =   .0414.    total  weight   of   brown 

warp   per    woven    vard. 
504    ends    -^    (SO/1    X    840)    =    .0200.    weight 

of   white    ground    warp    without   take-up. 
6  95-    talce-up    in    we.nving. 
.0200    -r     .94    --=    .0213,    total    weight   of   white 

ground   warp   per   woven   vard. 
960  ends  h-   (30/1   X    840)    =   .0381.  weight  of 

crinkle    warp    without    take-up. 
299^    take-up    In    weaving. 
.0381    -¥-   .71   =   .0537,   total   weight  of  crinkle 

white    warp. 
60  picks  X  30  5-6"  width  in  reed  X  36" 

=   1,850 

36" 

yards   of    filling    per   yard    of   cloth. 
1.850  -f-    (40/1    X    840)    =   .0551,   total   weight 

of   filling    per  yard   of  ciotii. 
.0414     +     .0213     +     .0537     -f     .0551     =     .1715. 

total   weight  per  yard. 
1.0000  -T-   .1715    =-•    5.83   yards  per  pound. 


■♦  *» 


IMITATION  JACQDARD  BED- 
FORD CORD. 

The  most  Interesting  question  at 
present  among  domestic  manufactur- 
ers is  in  connection  with  the  importa- 
tion of  cotton  cloth  under  the  new 
tariff  law.  Possibly  the  facts  in  re- 
gard to  this  matter  on  one  particular 
cloth  may  be  of  interest,  and  will  show 
to  a  large  extent  just  why  fabrics  are 
imported  and  what  must  be  done  if 
domestic  sellers  are  to  forestall  any 
greater  amount  of  importation 
than  has  been  noted  in  the  past.  It 
may  as  well  be  recognized  by  domes- 
tic sellers  now  as  in  the  future,  that 


fancy  fabrics  have  come  to  stay  and 
that  machinery  and  methods  may  as 
well  be  adapted  to  the  proauction  of 
such  fabrics  when  a  large  profit  is 
obtainable  as  when  there  is  a  greater 
amount  of  competition  and  fewer  op- 
portunities for  large  returns.  As  fab- 
rics become  more  intricate,  either  be- 
cause of  their  composition  or  weave, 
it  requires  a  greater  amount  of  labor 
to  satisiactorily  produce  them,  and  for 
this  reason  domestic  manufacturers 
have,  to  a  certain  extent,  avoided  their 
production. 

It  has  always  been  the  pol- 
icy to  have  weavers  operate  as 
many  looms  as  possible,  and  to-day, 
if  many  more  fancy  fabrics  be 
attempted,  there  would  be  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  with  operatives  and 
fewer  looms  per  weaver  would  have 
to  be  run.  Naturally,  this  would  cre- 
ate a  greater  weaving  price  per  yard, 
but  the  main  difficulty  would  arise 
from  the  fact  that  enough  weavers 
would  not  be  available  to  operate  the 
looms.  There  are  what  might  be  con- 
sidered 

RADICAL  DIFFERENCES 
between  the  domestic  and  foreign 
method  of  producing  many  cloths. 
This  arises  from  the  machinery  which 
is  used  to  a  large  extent,  although 
there  are  other  conditions  which  have 
an  influence.  In  the  first  place,  the 
foreign  manufacturer  has  a  large  per- 
centage of  mule  spindles  in  his  equip- 
ment, the  percentage  being  about  80, 
while  the  domestic  manufacturer  has 
about  80  per  cent  of  ring  spindles  with 
only  20  per  cent  mule  spindles.  Be- 
cause of  the  above  condition,  it  is 
possible  to  make  soft  twist  yarns  and 
use  a  comparatively  short  staple  of 
cotton  for  any  certain  size,  while  in 
the  domestic  market,  in  order  to  get 
a  satisfactory  production,  a  longer 
staple  and  a  higher  standard  of  twist 
must  be  used.  The  standard  for  warp 
yarn  composed  of  American  cotton  Is 
from  3.75  to  4  times  the  square  root 
of  the  yarn  size  in  English  plants, 
w^hile  in  Am.erican  plants  the  stand- 
ard is  likely  to  be  from  4.50  to  4.75 
times  the  square  root  of  the  size. 

The       use       of       a       short       sta- 
ple,      together        with        a        lower 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


169 


standard  of  twist,  does  produce 
a  soft  yarn  which  answers  satislac- 
torily  In  foreign  mills,  where  a  com- 
paratively few  looms  per  weaver  are 
operated,  but  in  domestic  mills  such 
yarn  would  not  be  at  all  desirable,  in 
fact,  could  not  be  used  in  many  in- 
stances. The  various  methods  of  mak- 
ing yarn  result  in  fabrics  of  a  some- 
what different  character,  for  the  for- 
eign cloth  has  a  soft  effect  and  a 
somewhat  fuzzy  nature,  while  the  do- 
mestic cloth  is  more  often  smooth  and 
clean,  although  of  a  much  stronger 
character  for  the  same  size  of  yarn. 
For  certain  purposes,  the  hard  fabric 
is    desirable,    but   for  most   uses    the 


amount  of  detail,  but  when  handled  In 
a  correct  manner  will  also  insure  more 
extensive  profit.  One  of  the  men  con- 
sidered of  the  highest  standing  in  the 
domestic  market  stated  during  the 
past  week  that  one  of  the  things 
which  must  be  done  in  the  immedi- 
ate future  in  domestic  mills 
is  to  install  a  greater  num- 
ber of  jacquard  looms.  He 
gave  as  his  reason  the  fact  that  fancy 
fabrics  have  come  to  stay,  and  that 
even  though  as  large  figures  as  those 
used  at  present  are  not  in  demand, 
nevertheless  jacquard  looms  pro- 
duce better  effects  of  a  small  charac- 
ter than  dobbies.     He  also  stated  that 


Imported  Jacquard  Novelty. 


softer  material  will  take  a  better  fin- 
ish and  have  a  much  greater  demand. 
Finish  and  style  are  of  great  impor- 
tance to-day  In  the  sale  of  any  cloth, 
and  on  a  mercerized  fabric,  such  as 
that  analyzed,  is  of  importance  in  pro- 
ducing attractive  results. 

FOREIGN  ADVANTAGE. 

The  foreign  manufacturer  has  a 
much  larger  proportionate  supply  of 
Jacquard  looms  than  the  domestic 
maker,  and  this  fact  permits  him  to 
produce  a  greater  number  of  fancy 
materials.  Of  course,  a  larger  num- 
ber of  Jacquard  looms  In  any  plant 
will   be    responsible    for    a    greater 


there  are  any  number  of  domestic 
mills  which  have  dobby  looms  contain- 
ing as  high  as  twenty-five  har- 
nesses which  never  considered 
placing  patterns  upon  such  looms 
when  they  used  over  16  har- 
nesses, but  rather  adapted  them  to 
their  jacquard  machines.  He  said 
that  although  the  loom  speed  was 
slower  the  percentage  of  pro- 
duction was  often  higher  on 
jacquards  and  that  the  actual 
yardage  obtained  compared  very 
favorably  with  that  obtained 
from  a  dobby  loom  at  a  higher  speed. 
A  smaller   percentage    of   seconds   Is 


160 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


obtained  when  similar  patterns  are 
made  on  dobby  and  jacquard  looms 
and  it  is  often  possible  to  weave  yarn 
satisfactorily  on  a  jacquard  which 
could  not  be  handled  at  all  upon  a 
dobby.  The  fact  that  foreign  yarns 
are  not  so  strong  as  domestic  partly 
explains  why  foreign  mills  contain  a 
greater    number    of    jacquard    looms. 

MORE  CO-OPERATION  NEEDED. 

The  fabric  to  be  considered  is  call- 
ed a  jacquard  Bedford  cord,  but  it  Is 
not  a  Bedford  cord  at  all,  for  the  cords 
are  merely  produced  through  the 
introduction  of  heavy  yarns,  though 
they  do  appear  somewhat  similar  to 
certain  of  the  so-called  Russian  cords 
which  have  been  sold  extensively. 
They  are,  however,  not  Russian  cords, 
Inasmuch  as  they  are  not  produced 
by  a  leno  motion.  A  fabric  which  is 
very  similar  to  that  analyzed,  with 
the  exception  of  the  weave,  has  been 
sold  quite  extensively  in  the  domestic 
market,  the  price  being  at  retail  2.5 
cents  per  yard  as  compared  with  75 
cents  per  yard  for  the  jacquard  woven 
imported  article.  The  question  arises 
whether  this  cloth  could  not  or  should 
not  have  been  made  in  the  domestic 
mills  rather  than  to  have  been  im- 
ported and  made  in  foreign  plants.  It 
is  a  fact  that  converters  are  much  in 
advance  of  domestic  manufacturers  lu 
regard  to  style.  Many  of  them  would 
like  to  obtain  a  much  greater  range 
of  styles  than  they  do  at  present  and 
would  like  to  have  many  ideas  worked 
out  which  domestic  mills  absolutely 
refuse  to  attempt.  The  method  which 
has  been  used  by  domestic  makers, 
namely  that  of  quantity  production, 
has  warded  off  a  large  amount  of  prog- 
ress in  the  making  of  fancy  styles 
which  might  have  been  noted  were  a 
little  more  co-operation  shown.  It 
probably  would  be  said  that  the  quan- 
tity of  the  cloth  considered  which 
could  be  sold  would  be  comparatively 
small.  Even  if  this  were  true  a  large 
enough  quantity  could  be  sold  to  make 
a  sufficient  sized  order  for  some  do- 
mestic manufacturer.   The 

FOREIGN    MAKER 
will       sell       to       any     buyer     eight 
pieces  or  320  yards  of  any  style  and 


be  entirely  satisfied  if  no  future  orders 
are  received.  The  domestic  manufac- 
turer will  produce  in  most  instances  no 
fewer  than  500  pieces  or  30,000  yards 
of  any  fancy  style,  though  in  certain 
instances  the  amount  can  be  reduced 
to  approximately  250  to  3t)0  pieces. 
There  is  absolutely  no  reason  why 
the  domestic  manufacturer  should 
not  make  orders  of  much  smaller  size 
than  are  now  produced.  If  he  believes 
that  250  or  500  pieces  are  necessary, 
why  should  this  number  of  pieces  not 
be  produced  with  the  same  ground 
construction  and  possibly  ten  different 
designs  applied  to  the  cloth?  A  fabric 
such  as  that  analyzed  could  be  used 
as  a  ground  work  and  different  figures 
applied  to  it  so  as  to  make  a  range  of 
styles  which  could  compete  with  the 
small  orders  that  foreign  makers  will 
produce.  The  only  extra  expense 
would  be  the  cost  of  the  design  and 
the  other  details  necessary  in  con- 
nection with  It.  For  this  cloth  an 
extra  design  could  be  produced  for  a 
total  cost  of  less  than  $10,  and  if  onlj 
1,000  yards  of  a  pattern  were  produced 
this  would  only  add  one  cent  per  yard 
to  the  cloth,  a  price  which  we  feel 
certain  many  converters  would  be 
willing  to  pay  if  they  could  get  the 
work  done.  Naturally,  a  greater  de- 
signing force  would  have  to  be  em- 
ployed, but  this  is  of  small  moment 
when  the  obtaining  of  a  sufficient 
number  of  orders  to  run  the  plant  in 
full  is  considered.  Why  should  a 
fabric  be  imported  when  it  can  be 
produced  and  sold  in  a  finished  state 
at  approximately  30  cents  per  yard 
with  the  foreign  seller  obtaining  42- 
%  cents  per  yard?    Domestic  makers 

MUST  WAKE  UP 
if  they  expect  to  hold  the  business 
which  they  have  had  in  the  past.  A 
difference  of  12V2  cents  per  yard  in 
favor  of  domestic  makers,  and  still 
have  foreign  sellers  obtain  the  busi- 
ness, shows  that  there  is  something 
radically  wrong  either  with  the  meth- 
ods used  for  selling,  in  the  style 
used  in  the  fabric,  or  else  the  cloth 
appears  12i/^  cents  better  than  a 
domestic  fabric  of  a  similar  character. 
There  may  be  some  difference  be- 
tween  a   domestic   production   and   a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


161 


/oreign  production  such  as  that  con- 
sidered, but  it  is  not  12i^  cents  per 
yard  in  any  case.  There  is  no  reason 
why  Jacquard  styles  should  not  have 
been  applied  to  the  plain  corded  fab- 
rics which  have  been  sold  for  some 
time  in  the  domestic  market,  and  it  is 
believed  that  the  reticence  of  domestic 
manufacturers  has  been  mainly  re- 
sponsible for  the  cloth  importation. 
Of  course,  it  may  be  that  most  of  the 
jacquard  looms  in  the  domestic  mar- 
ket have  been  busy  at  a  good  profit 
and  that  this  has  allowed  foreign 
fabrics  to  be  sold,  but  from  obser- 
vation in  other  years,  this  condition 
has  little  influence,  because  jacquard 
looms  have  been  idle  and  fabrics 
"Which  they  could  produce  have  been 
imported  at  the  same  time.  Style  is 
of  much  more  importance  than  for- 
merly, it  being  largely  w^eave  or  fin- 
ish, and  these  two  features  must  be 
watched  carefully  by  domestic  pro- 
ducers. 

A  very  poorly  constructed  fab- 
ric which  contains  an  attractive 
pattern  or  is  finished  well  will  some- 
times sell  in  competition  with  a  better 
made  cloth  upon  which  a  poor  design 
or  an  unattractive  finish  is  used. 
There  has  been  altogether  too  much 
emphasis  placed  upon  ordinary  fabrics 
in  the  domestic  market  and  not 
enough  importance  attached  to  the 
making  of  attractive  patterns.  The 
domestic  manufacturer  thinks  only  of 
quantity  production,  and  this  influ- 
ences him  in  the  making  of  designs  as 
well  as  in  the  actual  cloth  production, 
so  that  many  of  the  unimportant  de- 
tails are  slighted  and  the  result  pro- 
duced when  the  cloth  is  woven  is  not 
nearly  as  desirable  as  it  otherwise 
would  be.  Many  domestic  fabrics 
have  been  rendered  undesirable  be- 
cause enough  care  has  not  been  used 
in  making  the  design,  whereas  if 
quantity  of  production  had  not  been  so 
important  the  cloth  would  undoubt- 
edly have  been  sold  in  quite  sizable 
quantities. 

There  are  a  number  of  features  in 
regard  to  the  fabric  under  discussion 
which  are  worthy  of  inent'on. 
In  the  first  place  the  ground  cloth 
has    been    so    constructed    that   it   Is 


quite  firm  and  will  give  desirable  serv- 
ice. The  ground  weave  is  not  plain, 
but  it  is  a  three-harness  twill,  with  the 
warp  weaving  on  the  face  for  two 
picks  and  on  the  back  for  one  pick. 
Through  this  construction  a  larger 
number  of  picks  per  inch  are  possible 
and  this  causes  the  filling  to  cover  up 
almost  entirely  the  cords  in  the  cloth 
and  making  a  much  better  effect  than 
would  otherw'ise  be  possible.  The  fill- 
ing passes  over  the  cords  two  picks 
out  of  every  three  and  the  ground 
weave  in  the  cloth  makes  it  possible 
to  bind  down  the  filling  as  it  comes 
over  the  cord  and  creates  a  clean 
effect  which  is  not  possible  when  a 
plain  ground  weave  is  used. 
It  will  be  noted  that  the 
jacquard  figure  is  cut  off  Just 
before  the  cord  is  reached  and  this 
creates  a  better  effect  and  in  no  way 
detracts  from  the  general  appearance 
of  the  fabric.  We  do  not  consider 
that  the  pattern  which  is  used  on 
this  cloth  is  especially  attractive  for 
dress  goods,  but  nevertheless  the  idea 
is  ingenious  and  could  be  used  with 
somewhat  better  results  if  other  styles 
of  figures  were  employed.  The  high 
ground  construction  and  the  weave 
which  is  used  would  also  make  It 
possible  for  other  effects,  both  warp 
and  filling,  to  be  introduced,  and  inas- 
much as  the  ground  fabric  is  selling 
quite  well  In  the  domestic  market  It 
would  seem  desirable  for  domestic 
manufacturers  to  attempt  styles  of 
somewhat  similar  character.     Most 

FOREIGN  FABRICS 
are  of  a  wide  nature,  especially  the 
crepes  and  ratings  which  have  been 
selling  recently,  but  these  fabrics  are 
of  narrow  construction,  naihe- 
ly  28  inches  in  the  finish- 
ed state  and  could  be  pro- 
duced by  almost  any  mill  in  which 
jacquards  are  available  in  the  do- 
mestic market.  It  might  be  mentioned 
that  the  cords  are  six-ply  yarn  in- 
stead of  being  coarser  ply  which  are 
often  used  in  domestic  fabrics  of  a 
somewhat  similar  character.  The  use 
of  a  heavy  ply  yarn  in  this  instance 
probably  creates  a  smoother  effect 
and  a  more  regular  width  of  cord, 
and  for  this  reason   is  desirable;    In 


1«2 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


fact,  the  whole  fabric  shows  that  in- 
telligence has  been  used  in  its  pro- 
duction. Most  domestic  sellers  know 
that  cords  of  this  character  have  been 
desirable,  but  few  of  them  have  at- 
tempted to  make  a  cloth  of  as  good 
quality  as  that  considered.  The  better 
constructed  a  fabric  of  this  character 
is  the  finer  will  be  its  appearance  and 
the  effect  more  like  that  of  a  Russian 
cord.  There  is  not  one  buyer  in  a 
hundred  who  would  know  or  care 
whether  this  cord  was  made  by  a  leno 
motion  or  in  some  other  manner,  be- 
cause it  looks  Ju3t  about  as  well  as 
it  would  if  it  were  made  by  the  leno 
attacntnent.  It  is  also  probable  that  a 
cord  produced  in  a  manner  similar  to 
that  in  the  cloth  analyzed  is  more 
satisfactory  than  a  Russian  cord,  in- 
asmuch as  it  is  not  so  hard  and  com- 
bines better  with  the  whole  cloth  ap- 
pearance. The  making  of  designs  for 
fabrics  of  this  character  is  a 

VERY  SIMPLE  PROCESS, 

and  can  be  accomplished  in  a  com- 
paratively short  time.  In  some  cases 
it  Is  necessary  to  paint  in  the  ground 
weave  entirely  if  a  design  paper  is  not 
available  which  has  the  weave  upon  It, 
and  in  a  fabric  like  the  sample  the 
use  of  cords  makes  it  almost  always 
necessary.  If  there  be  a  much  higher 
tie-up  in  the  machine  than  is  used  in 
the  cloth  It  is  a  good  plan  to  watch 
the  places  where  the  jacquard  hooks 
are  to  be  cast  out,  and  usually  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  cast  them  out  where  the 
cloth  count  is  the  lowest.  In  regard 
to  the  manufacturer's  profit,  it  is  a 
good  thing  to  base  this  upon  the  num- 
ber of  picks  which  the  cloth  contains 
or  the  actual  yardage  which  is  produc- 
ed. To  compare  a  cloth  of  114  picks 
per  inch  with  one  which  contains  72 
picks  per  inch  is  not  justifiable,  In- 
asmuch as  a  greater  amount  of  profit 
should  be  obtained  for  the  cloth  con- 
taining the  larger  amount  of  picks  per 
inch. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  satisfactory 
gain  it  would  probably  be  necessary 
for  a  manufacturer  to  obtain  at  least 
3  cents  per  yard  profit,  as  this  amount 


would  allow  somewhat  less  than  $3 
per  loom  per  week  to  be  received,  and 
would  return  a  profit  of  only  about  12 
per  cent  upon  the  capital  necessary 
to  produce  such  material.  The  price 
for  finishing  a  fabric  of  this  character 
is  not  especially  high  in  the  domestic 
market,  and  for  many  such  styles  the 
price  would  be  from  l^^  to  1%  cents 
per  yard.   The 

EXPENSES  OF  A  CONVERTER 

in  selling  are  higher  than  for  the 
more  staple  materials,  but  in  any 
case,  they  do  not  add  enough  to  the 
cost  of  the  materials  to  make  the 
sale  of  it  prohibitive  when  compared 
to  the  imported  material.  Without 
doubt  a  domestic  fabric  of  approxi- 
mately the  same  character  as  that 
considered  could  be  sold  at  retail  in 
the  domestic  market  for  about  45 
cents  per  yard,  although  we  have 
mentioned  50  cents  as  the  retail  sell- 
ing price  in  the  fabric  analysis.  Al- 
lowing a  very  good  rate  of  profit  to 
the  different  sellers,  the  domestic 
price  of  30  cents  or  less  compares 
favorably  with  the  price  in  England 
of  about  27%  cents.  It  may  be  well 
to  note  that  the  yarns  are  finer  in  the 
cloth  in  a  finished  state  than  they  are 
when  spun.  The  warp  yarn  sizes 
about  44-1,  whereas  probably  40-1  was 
used  originally.  The  same  condition 
is  noted  in  regard  to  the  other  yarns, 
and  the  filling  which  probably  was 
35-1  when  spun  sizes  somewhat  over 
37-1  in  the  finished  material.  We  have 
used  Egyptian  cotton  in  our  estimate 
of  yarn  costs  for  the  filling,  inasmuch 
as  this  cotton  gives  somewhat  better 
results,  although  domestic  makers 
have  avoided  its  use  recently  in  their 
fabrics  which  are  to  be  piece  mercer- 
ized. 

Such  fabri  s  as  those  analyzed 
should  not  be  imported,  but  rather 
made  in  the  domestic  market,  and  un- 
less care  be  exercised  there  will  be 
a  great  deal  more  of  such  cloth  im- 
ported than  there  has  been  In  the 
past.  It  is  up  to  manufacturers  to 
see  that  this  does  not  occur.  The 
method  of  obtaining  cloth  and  yam 
weights  Is  as  follows: 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


168 


1,980   ends   -+-    (40/1    X    840)    =   .0589.   weight 

of  40/1  warp  without   take-UD. 
9%     take-up    In    weaving. 
.058i»    H-    .91    =    .0647,    total    weight    of    40/1 

warp    per    woven    yard. 
294    ends    ■+-     (26/6    X    840)     =    .0808,    weight 

of    2C/6    warp    without    take-up. 
2%    take-up    In   weaving. 
.0808    -i-    .98    =    .0824,    total    weight   of    26/6 

warp    per    woven    yard. 
80    ends    -=-     (40/2     X     840)     =    .0048.    weight 

of     40/2     warp    without    take-up. 


40/1    Am.    combed    colored. 
26/6   Am.   carded    


40/2    Am     combed 


6%    take-iip  In  weaving. 

.0048    -^-    .94    =    .0051,    total    weight   of    40/1 

warp    per    woven    yard. 
114  picks  X  3114"  X  36" 

=    3,562.5    yards    of 

36" 

filling    per    yard    of    cloth. 
3.562.5      -H      (35/1      X      840)     =     .1212.     total 

weight    of    3D/1    per    woven    yard. 
.0647     -f     .0824     -f     .0051     -f     .1212     =     .2734. 

total    weight    per    yard. 
1.0000    ^    .2734    =    3.66    yards   per   pound. 


PATTERN. 


1,980     B  1 
294     B  2 


35/1   Eg.    combed   filling;   114   picks. 
42  reed.  3H4"  width  In  reed,  28"  finished. 
s4    X    114  all  over  count. 


98  X 


2,354   total   ends. 


TARNS. 


40/1  Am.  combed;   X%"  staple;    8   hank  dou.   rov., 

26/6  Am.    carded;    l%o"  staple;   5^    hank  dou.    rov., 

40/2  Am.   combed;   IVi"  staple;   8   hank  dou.   rov., 

35/1  Eg.   combed;  1%"  staple;   8  hank   dou.   rov., 

COST. 

1,980   ends   40/1   Am.   combed  warp   -|-    9%    take-up. 

294   ends   26/6   Am.    carded   warp    -|-    2%    take-up. 

80  ends   40/2   Am.    combed    warp    +    6%    take-up. 

114   picks  35/1  Eg.   combed  filling    

Weaving    , 

Expenses     


Cotton. 
I6V2C. 
15c. 
161.4c. 
22c. 


Labor,  waste, 

dyeing,   etc. 

3414  c. 

9%c. 

1414  c. 

ll%c. 


.0047    @  50%c. 

.0824    @  24  %c. 

.0051    (g)  30%c. 

.1212    ©  33%c. 


Jacquard    cards 
Selling    (grey).. 


50%c. 
24  %c. 
30%c. 
33  %c. 


$  .0329 
.0204 
.0016 
.0406 
.0306 
.0293 

$  .1554 
.0031 

$  .1585 
.0032 


Mill    cost    $.1617 

Mill    selling    price     (about) 1925 

Bleaching,    mercerizing,    etc .0175 

Converter's    expenses    .0250 


Converter's    cost    %  .2350 

Converter's   selling   price    (about) .3000 

■When   sold  direct,    retail   price   should   not   be   over .5000 

Yards   per   pound   3.66. 
Details   regarding  imported   cloth: 

Selling  price  in  England   (about) 27.5c.   per  yard 

Rate   of   duty   30%. 

Selling  price  of  Importer  In  United  States 42.5c.   per  yard 

Selling    price   of   retailer    76c.      per  yard 


AN  IDEA  OF  VALUE 

Probably  the  one  feature  in  cotton 
cloth  making  and  selling  which  is 
largely  responsible  for  satisfactory 
profits  is  tiie  use  of  ideas  which  are 
stylish  and  new,  that  is,  ones  which 
are  somewhat  different  from  those 
the  majority  of  makers  are  producing. 
Such  results  may  be  obtained  through 
a  change  in  cloth  construction  or  the 
application  of  a  different  finish.  The 
process  does  not  necessarily  mean 
that  the  cost  of  making  or  finishing 


will  be  higher;  in  fact,  it  has  quite 
often  happened  that  more  desirable 
effects  are  obtained  at  a  lower  cost, 
though,  because  of  domestic  producing 
methods,  a  change  to  a  higher  count 
is  often  more  necessary  than  a 
change  to  a  lower  count,  with  the  re- 
sult of  increasing  cost.  The  fact  that 
prices  are  watched  so  carefully  is  very 
detrimental  to  the  best  result  being 
obtained,  and  many  times  the  con- 
struction which  appears  well  Is  cut 
down  to  such  an  extent  that  the  origi- 
nal effect  is  well-nigh  lost. 

It  would  be  far  better  if  sellers  of 


164 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


exclusive  fabrics  would  use  the  cloth 
construction  which  they  find  will  pro- 
duce the  best  result  regardless  of  its 
cost,  within  reasonable  limits,  and  let 
others  adopt  the  practices  which  are 
so  generally  noted.  A  better  profit 
would  ultimately  be  secured,  and  in 
addition  a  reputation  for  quality 
would  be  built  i  p,  a  process  which  is 
especially  difficult  to-day.  How  many 
are  taere,  even  among  cloth  makers, 
who  realize  the  small  difference  in 
cost  which  there  is  between  a  good 
article  and  a  poor  one  of  the  same 
character?  Usually  it  is  a  question 
of  a  little  better  stock,  a  little  better 
yarn,  a  few  more  threads  or  picks  per 
inch  or  an  arrangement  of  fabric  pat- 
tern in  a  more  artistic  manner,  all  of 
which  changes  are  immaterial  in 
many  cloths  when  the  prices  to  con- 
sumers are  considered. 


can  be  adopted  with  success  by  do- 
mestic producers. 

One  of  the  most  certain  features  in 
the  market  at  present  is  that  crepes 
and  crepe  effects  will  be  the  best,  or 
at  least  one  of  the  best,  sellers  for  the 
coming  spring  and  summer.  Many  of 
such  effects  have  been  made  and  sold, 
not  only  in  plain  shades  and  in  printed 
patterns,  but  a^so  decorated  with  vari- 
ous kinds  of  stripes  and  checks.  The 
light  character  of  the  majority  of 
crepe  cloths  is  of  advantage  in  many 
ways,  allowing  soft,  clinging  garments 
to  be  produced,  and  making  strong 
contrasts  possible  in  the  fabric  con- 
struction. To  produce  the  desirable 
■materials,  comparatively  fine  yarns 
are  necessary,  and  in  order  to  allow 
sufficient  shrinkage,  which  produces 
the  crepe  effect,  a  rather  low  cloth 
count  is  employed.     Fine  yarns  and  a 


A    Novelty    Fabric  of   Unusual    Interest  Showing  Jacquard   Weave  on  Crepe 

Cloth. 


It  is  undoubtedly  true  that  a  good 
many  foreign  manufacturers  have  a 
certain  amount  of  advantage  over  do- 
mestic producers,  ina  ^tnuch  as  they 
are  not  bound  to  such  an  extent  to  the 
set  price  limit,  and  in  addition  their 
methods  of  production  admit  of  a 

GREATER  VARIATION 
in  production.    Under  these  conditions 
it  may  be  well  to   consider  a  fabric 
which  contains  a  number  of  ideas  that 


small  number  of  threads  of  picks  per 
inch  make  woven  figures  undesirable, 
and  very  few  are  employed  on  crepes 
except  on  stripes  or  on  portions  of  the 
cloth    which  are  unlike  the  ground. 

Jacquard  figures  have  been  selling 
♦extensively,  hut  no  one.  so  far  as  we 
know  in  the  domestic  market  has  pro- 
duced a  desirable  crepe  cloth  which 
has  jacquard  figures  woven  upon  it. 
That  this  can  be  done  successfully  is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


165 


shown  by  the  fabric  analyzed,  but  a 
great  deal  of  ingenuity  is  necessary  in 
order  to  make  sucli  effects  practical. 
In  the  first  place  the  woven  fabric 
would  appear  to  many  as  being  a  dou- 
ble cloth,  but  this  is  not  the  case.  The 
weave  which  has  been  employed  in 
the  ground  fabric  should  be  evident 
from  an  examination  of  the  illustration 
that  we  present,  which  is  one  repeat 
of  the  ground  weave,  so  far  as  the 
number  of  picks  in  the  weave  is  con- 
cerned. The  cloth  is  woven  on  a  box 
loom  and  contains  two  picks  of  hard 
twist  face  yarn  and  two  picks  of  mer- 
cerized yarn,  which  in  the  ground  fab- 
ric show  only  on  the  back  of  the 
cloth.     On  the 

HARD   TWIST   PICKS 

the  weave  is  entirely  plain,  except 
where  the  figure  is  being  produced, 
while  on  the  mercerized  yarn  an  eight- 
harness  warp  satin  weave  is  employed. 

There  is  this  point  to  be  noted,  how- 
ever, and  it  is  that  the  warp  depres- 
sion, when  the  mercerized  picks  are 
inserted,  occurs  on  the  same  threads 
as  it  does  on  the  hard  twist  pick,  and 
allows  the  heavy  mercerized  yarn  to 
slip  in  behind  the  hard  twist  face  yarn 
and  be  noticeable  only  on  the  back  of 
the  cloth.  This  can  be  seen  easily 
from  an  examination  of  the  ground 
weave.  Only  through  this  method 
would  it  be  possible  for  the  face  of 
the  cloth  to  appear  so  free  from  mer- 
cerized yarn.  A  good  many  manufac- 
turers would  not  use  a  correct  weave 
on  the  back  yarn,  and  satisfactory  re- 
sults would  not  be  obtained.  Com- 
paratively few  domestic  cotton  cloth 
makers  have  any  equipment  of  jac- 
quard  box  looms,  and  some  of  those 
who  do  would  not  use  such  looms  on 
jacquard  box  loom  work,  but  it  would 
be  of  advantage  if  they  kept  in  more 
careful  touch  with  styles,  and  brought 
out  as  desirable  effects  as  the  one 
considered. 

That  this  fabric  can  be  sold  at  621/2 
cents  per  yard  by  an  importer  and  at 
$1.50  per  yard  by  a  retailer,  when  it 
can  be  made  and  sold  at  a  very  much 
lower  price  by  the  domestic  manufac- 
turer, shows  clearly  that  the  domes- 
tic manufacturer  lacks  very  much  to 
being  the  unqualified  success  which 
he  should  be  in  the  making  of  novelty 


materials.  A  large  item  in  the  suc- 
cess of  any  producer  of  any  material 
is  to  get  out  new  ideas  in  advance  of 
one's  competitor.  Wearing  value  is 
of  greater  importance  in  staple  line, 
but  it  is  largely  style  which  is  re- 
sponsible for  satisfactory  profits  on 
fancies.  In  certain  kinds  of  silk  fab- 
rics what  are  called  blister  effects  are 
now  selling  especially  well,  though  at 
comparatively  high  prices,  and  while 
there  has  been  none  of  these  effects 
produced  entirely  from  cotton  yarns, 
nevertheless  the  cloth  analyzed  shows 
an  effect  of  this  character. 

The  hard  twist  of  the  face  yarn 
causes  the  cloth  to  shrink  quite  a 
little  when  it  is  finished,  though  not 
to  so  great  an  extent  as  if  the  heavy 
back  yarn  were  not  present.  Where 
the 

MERCERIZED  YARN 
creates  the  figures  on  the  face  of  the 
cloth  this  shrinkage  causes  c  slight 
curvature,  and  raises  the  figure  some- 
what. With  a  double  cloth  construc- 
tion similar  to  that  considered, 
we  believe  that  blister  effects 
could  be  produced  which  would  be 
very  attractive  and  entirely  different 
from  the  fabrics  now  being  offered, 
and  because  of  the  present  style  ought 
to  be  sold  extensively.  Of  course,  the 
cost  of  production  would  be  high,  but 
nearly  always  profits  warrant  the  pro- 
cedure if  care  is  used  in  making  the 
weave  correctly.  The  trouble  has 
been  that  the  quantity  of  production 
demanded  by  a  domestic  maker  has 
affected  design  work  as  well  as  fab- 
rics, and  the  fine  points  which  cause 
a  fabric  to  be  desirable  or  otherwise 
are   often   overlooked. 

To  make  the  blisters  or  figures  ap- 
pear more  prominent  on  the  clcth  con- 
sidered, the  hard  twist  filling  is  al- 
lowed to  float  on  the  back  of  the  cloth, 
and  this  fact  allows  the  hard  twist 
yarn  to  shrink  up  to  a  greater  extent, 
inasmuch  as  it  is  not  held  so  tightly 
by  being  bound  into  the  fabric.  A 
great  deal  of  ingenuity  has  been  used 
in  making  the  design  in  addition  to 
the  points  mentioned,  for  both  the 
heavy  and  light  yarns  are  combined 
in  such  a  manner  that  there  are  no 
streaks  in  the  fabric  when  the  weave 
changes  occur.  A  portion  of  the 
weave  inside  of  the  figure  is  somewhat 


166 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


similar  to  an  ordinary  basket  weave, 
but  it  tias  been  manipulated  in  sucti  a 
manner  tliat  the  lieavy  and  liglit  yarns 
do  not  appear  radically  different  wtien 
inserted  by  the  box  motion.  The  fact 
that  the  mercerized  yarn  absorbs  a 
somewhat  greater  amount  of  color 
than  the  hard  twist  yarn,  the 
method  of  producing  the  figure  and 
effects  are  well  worth  the  attention 
on  the  part  of  the  manufacturers. 
Taken  all  together,  we  believe  that 
there  are  very  few  plants  where 
a  fabric  of  this  character  would  be  so 
satisfactorily  worked  out. 

There  are  certain  features  in  the 
making  of 

HIGH-CLASS  FABRICS 

which  must  be  considered  carefully  if 
the  correct  profit  for  each  cloth  is  to 
be  secured.  Take  the  cloth  under 
consideration  as  an  example.  There 
are  124  picks  per  inch  in  the  cloth,  in 
a  finished  state,  and  while  a  manu- 
facturer would  realize  it,  nevertheless 
there  are  many  others  who  would  not 
consider  the  fact  that  this  cloth  would 
be  produced  at  a  very  slow  rate  of 
speed.  This  is  partly  because  the 
loom  operates  at  a  much  slower  speed 
than  many  dobby  looms,  and  also  be- 
cause of  the  larger  number  of  picks 
per  inch.  When  the  yards  produced 
are  small,  the  weaving  price  per  yard 
will  increase,  and  the  expenses  per 
vard  will  also  advance  a  relative 
amount.  This,  of  course,  should  be 
noted  when  the  cost  of  the  goods  is 
being  secured,  but  the  same  items 
should  be  considered  in  ascertaining 
the  amount  of  profit  per  yard  which 
would  be  satisfactory. 

It  is  not  correct  to  expect  to  ob- 
tain the  same  amount  of  profit  per 
yard  for  a  fabric  such  as  that  analyzed 
with  124  picks  per  inch  as  it  Is  for  a 
fabric  similar  to  the  ordinary  jacquard 
shirtings  which  may  contain  some- 
where in  the  vicinity  of  80  picks.  The 
profit  per  yard  should  be  dependent  to 
a  large  extent  upon  the  yards  which 
the  loom  produces,  though  there  are 
other  features  which  would  have  an 
influence.  In  this  cloth  we  have  con- 
sidered that  the  jacquard  cards  are 
included  in  the  item  mentioned  as  ex- 
penses. The  number  of  cards  which 
are    employed,    the    amount    of    cloth 


which  they  weave  and  other  features 
have  an  influence  on  the  cost  of  this 
item,  but  for  a  similar  fabric  produced 
in  a  domestic  plant  the  cost  of  the 
jacquard  cards  would  add  an  amount 
of  approximately  one-half  a  cent  per 
yard.  This  occurs  because  there  are 
quite  a  number  of  cards  necessary  to 
produce  the  design,  a  fact  which  is 
not  noticed  in  most  domestic  cotton 
fabrics. 

In  order  to  secure  a  satisfactorj 
profit  upon  the  capital  required  to 
produce  these  goods,  and  to  make  il 
worth  while  to  develop  ideas  which 
are  new,  the  profit  per  yard  necessary 
would  be  from  three  and  one-half  to 
four  cents  a  yard.    A  good  many 

DOMESTIC  MANUFACTURERS 

figure  to  make  about  $2  a  loom 
per  week  on  their  dobbies  and 
some  of  their  jacquard  work  when 
the  demand  is  not  especially  pressing, 
and  a  greater  amount  should  be  se- 
cured from  the  production  of  cloths 
such  as  described. 

The  yarns  used  in  the  making  of 
this  fabric  do  not  warrant  any  large 
amount  of  description,  but  they  are  of 
some  interest.  The  warp  yarn,  if  pro- 
duced in  a  domestic  plant,  would  be 
made  of  about  one  and  one-quarter 
inch  staple,  and  it  would  be  all  of  the 
same  character,  both  selvages  and  the 
main  portion  of  the  warp.  Many  for- 
eign fabrics  and  some  domestic,  espe- 
cially where  dyed  and  bleached  yarns 
are  used,  have  a  certain  kind  of  yarn 
for  their  selvages,  no  variation  being 
made  when  the  construction  of  the 
cloth  is  changed.  Foreign  manufac- 
turers undoubtedly  would  use  a  short- 
er staple  of  cotton  than  that  men- 
tioned, but  we  have  considered  in  our 
analysis  the  fabric  as  it  would  be  pro- 
duced in  a  domestic  plant.  The  hard 
twist  filling  is  somewhat  similar  to  the 
yarn  employed  in  ordinary  crepes,  the 
standard  of  twist  varying  from  six  and 
one-half  to  eight  and  one-half  -times 
the  square  root  of  the  yam  number. 
It  is  often  necessary  to  use  a  little 
finer  size  of  roving  for  a  certain 
plze  of  yarn  than  would  be  the  case 
If  hard  twist  were  not  being  pro- 
duced. 

In  many  cases  we  have  seen  yams 
shrink  approximately   10   per  cent  In 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


167 


the  spinning  process,  when  extra  twist 
was  applied.  In  order  to  satisfactorily 
use  this  hard  twist  yarn  in  the  weav- 
ing operation  it  must  be  steamed  or 
heated  in  a  like  manner  in  order  tc 
set  the  twist  and  eliminate  the  kink- 
ing. The  mercerized  yarn  is  similai 
to  any  yarn  of  this  character.  We 
have  considered  that  the  stock  used 
was  Egyptian,  inasmuch  as  this  pro 
duces  somewhat  better  results.  Two- 
ply  yarn  has  been  used  because  the 
fabric  is  not  piece-mercerized,  but 
rather  the  yarn  is  mercerized  before 
being  woven,  and  in  most  instances 
it  is  not  practical  to  mercerize  soft 
twist  single  yarn,  although  it  has 
been  done  to  an  extent.  The 
mercerized  two-ply  yarn  undoubtedly 
will  cause  the  fabric  figures  to  fray 
less  than  if  a  mercerized  single  yarn 
was  used. 

THE  CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION 
and  results  produced  are  of  greatest 
interest  to  cloth  makers  and  those 
who  develop  constructions,  but  to  a 
distributor  who  does  not  understand 
these  figures  it  probably  is  true  that 
the  selling  prices  are  of  greater  inter- 
est. To  one  who  does  not  consider 
the  matter  carefully  the  price  in  the 
foreign  market  and  the  price  in  the 
domestic  market  would  seem  to  pre- 
clude any  possibility  of  the  cloth  being 
sold  by  an  importer.  Note  that  this 
cloth  could  be  made  and  sold  by  a  firm 
which  sells  direct  to  the  retailer,  at 
about  34  cents  per  yard,  while  the 
price  in  the  foreign  market  would  be 
from  35  to  37  cents  per  yard.  Under 
domestic  scheaules  for  selling,  the 
cloth  could  be  sold  so  as  to  retail  at 
about  50  cents  per  yard,  while  if  it  is 
imported  it  cannot  be  sold  at  less  than 
$1  per  yard,  or  in  this  vicinity.  This 
same  condition  is  noted  on  a  great 
Jiany  cloths  which  are  imported  and 
sold  to-day,  and  when  their  costs  of 
production  are  compared  there  is  a 
decided  advantage  in  favor  of  domes- 
tic producers. 

The  fact  that  fabrics  are  sold  shows 
that  other  features  often  have  a  great- 
er Influence  than  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion. Perhaps,  the  reason  why  this 
cloth  can  be  sold  is  because  there  are 
new  Ideas  involved  which  domestic 
producers  have   not  yet  adopted.     It 


probably  is  not  true  that  the  quantity 
sold  is  so  small  that  it  would  be  of 
little  interest  to  domestic  producers, 
in  other  words,  the  fabric  style  has 
made  the  sale  possible,  or  else  the 
buyer  has  not  been  fully  enough  ac- 
quainted with  what  domestic  pro- 
ducers can  supply.  Very  many  of  the 
fabrics  which  have  been  imported  are 
imports  J  because  they  show  desirable 
features  rather  than  because  they  can 
be  sold  at  a  lower  cost  than  will  be 
observed  in  a  domestic  plant.  The 
only  way  domestic  sellers  can  prohibit 
the  importation  of  a  good  many  cloths 
is  to  get  busy  and  produce  attractive 
ideas  just  as  quickly  as  foreign  sellers. 
In  addition,  there  is  one  point  which 


8  ■  -     ■  ■    a 

■■■■■-■■    ■   H^B 

■    ■    ■    ■    ■  ;■   ■    ■'  ■■ 

■■  ■  ■  wi^'-mm  m  m 

■  ■  ■  ■  H  ■  ■  ■  ■■ 

■           m           ^^m     m 

:    ■  tf    ■  ■: 

S".Wii"-W.S 

Weave  Plan. 

should  be  mentioned,  and  this  is  that 
domestic  sellers  do  not  acquaint  buy- 
ers with  the  styles  which  they  can 
produce  in  a  general  manner. 

Foreign  selling  conditions  make 
this  problem  somewhat  easier  than 
it  is  in  the  domestic  market,  be- 
sides the  production  of  fancy  fabrics 
is  an  older  business,  and  the  styles 
which  various  mills  can  produce  are 
better  known,  but  there  should  be 
some  method  by  which  buyers  will 
become  more  familiar  with  the  styles 
which  domestic  mills  can  produce. 
Domestic  buyers  depend    to    a    great 


168  A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 

extent  upon    the    cloth    broker  as  to  mestic    fabrics,    and    often    identical 

where  a  cloth  can  be  obtained,  but  this  fabrics  are  being  sold,  both  imported 

method  has  its  failings,  though  it  muoL  ^nd  domestic,   whereas  if  a  domestic 

be  said  it  is  not  due  to  inability  upon  seller  had  been  closer  to  buyers,  and 

the  part  of  the  cloth  broker,  buc  ratuei  they  had  been  more  familiar  with  his 

a  lack  of  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  styles,  the  importation    of    the    cloth 

buyer,  inasmuch  as  foreign  fabrics  are  ^'o^ld   not  have   been   possible.     The 

often  purchased  when   they  could   be  method  of  obtaining  the  yarn  weights 

obtained  at  a  lower  price  from  a  do-  ^^^  the  weight  of  the  cloth  is  as  fol- 

mestic  seller.  lows: 

As  long  as  there  is  a  difference  in  3, 102  ends  -i-  (50/1  x  840)   =  .0760  weight 

selling  price  in  favor  of  domestic  man-  10%  Yak^-up'i'n "wiavrnT" 

ufacturers,  and  this  appears  to  be  the  .0700  -h  .9  =  .0844,  total  weight  of  warp  per 

general   condition   upon   many   of   the  62'p?ci«x'3r2-3  "  reed  width  x  36" 

fabrics  which  we  have  investigated,  it =   i,963 

would   seem    as    if    domestic    sellers  „,.,i„  „<•  «ni^B^'lo^  „„-^ 

,,  ,  .  j!i!      .     .  yards    of    filling    per   yard. 

would   make  a  greater  effort  to  pro-      i.&63  -4-   (840   x   45/1)    =  .0519,  weight  of 
duce   the  exclusive  styles  which   for-       ,  ^If'^  *";'^L.*^li'"^<. /o^  -.^no       •  ^.     , 

,,  .  T    4.    -u    4.  l,Sb?.    H      (^S40     X     l!6/2)     =    .1798    weight    of 

eign     sellers     manage     to     distribute.         mercerized   fining. 

There  undoubtedly  has  been  a  great      -0844  +  .0519  4-  .it98  =  .siei,  total  weight 

amount  of  progress  in  the  style  of  do-      i.J'o'bo  ^^^'"'^hei  =  3.16  yards  per  pound. 

PATTERN. 
2  2 

50/1  Am.  combed  warp  —     3,128     —     ==     3,192  total  ends. 

IG  16 

45/1   Am.   combed   filling,   hard  twist  2  ^    i  oj    t   *   i      i   i, 

26/2    Eg.   combed   filling,    mercerized  2        S  picKS. 

50  reed,   31   2-3"  width   in   reed,    27%"   finished   width. 
115    X    124   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Labor. 
Cotton.  waste,   etc. 

BO/1  Am    combed  warp;  IH"  staple;  10  hank  dou.  rov.,     19Vic.  16c.  =    35%c. 

45/1  Am.  combed,  H.  T. ;   IVs"  staple;   10  hanli  dou.  rov.,      17c.  21c:  =     38c. 

26/2  Eg.   combed;   1%"  staple;   5V&    hank  dou.    rov.,  22c.  19y2C.  =     41%c. 

COST. 

3,192  ends  50/1   Am.    combed  warp   +    10%    take-up =  .0844    @    35V4c.    =   %  .0300 

62   picks   45/1    Am.    combed    filling,    hard   twist    =   .0519    (g)    3Sc.        =        .0197 

62    picks   26/2    Eg.    combed    filling,    mercerized    =  .17as    @    4iy2C.    =        .0746 

Weaving       .0376 

Expenses      .0360 

t   .1979 
Selling     (grey)      !o040 

Total    mill    cost    (grey)     $.2019 

Mill    selling    price    (about)     $  .2400 

Bleaching,    finishing,    etc .0250 

Converters    expenses     .0225 

Converters    total    cost    %  .2875 

Converters    selling   price    (about) .3400 

Retailers    selling    price     .5000 

Yaras   per  pound   3.16    (grey). 

FIGURES   FOR   IMPORTED   FABRIC. 

English    selling   price    (about)     $   .3750 

Rate    of    duty     30% 

Importers    selling   price     .6250 

Importing    expenses     8% 

Retai'      price      $1.00 

«~*-* 

QTTJTDCTi    TTCCITT?  ^^  rapidly  during  the  past  few  years, 

ijlIllrJjU    lllJoUri  and  relates  largely  to  the  production 

of  novelty  fabrics  which  sell  for  com- 
A  situation  which  has  not  been  of  paratively  high  prices.  In  this  connec- 
especially    great    importance     in    the  tion,  it  may  be  well  to  take  up  a  few 
past,  but  which  must  be  faced  in  the  of  the  features  which  distinguish  do- 
future,  is  the  one  which  has  develop-  mestic   manufacturing  from    that    of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


led 


foreign  countries,  to  a  certain  extent. 
In  the  first  place,  foreign  maliers 
usually  accomplish  only  one  part  in 
the  production  of  a  finislied  material, 
that  is,  a  certain  manufacturer  will 
have  a  spinning  plant  and  pioduce  yarn 
for  the  market,  another  will  purchase 
this  yarn  and  weave  it  into  various 
styles  of  cloth,  while  still  another  will 
finish  the  fabric  in  whatever  manner 
seems  most  desirable  at  the  time. 
Thus  the  industry,  or  a  large  portion 
of  it  is  subdivided.  Tliis  method  is 
more  suitable  when  a  great  variety 
of-  cloths  are  to  be  produced,  inas- 
much as  it  allows  a  greater  flexibility 
in  the  organization  and  permits  a 
manufacturer  to  go  into  business  in  a 
comparatively  small  way. 

With  the  domestic  industry,  condi- 
tions are  largely  different,  inasmuch 
as  many  plants  are  entirely  complete, 
making  the  yarn,  weaving  the  cloth 
and  finishing  it.  This  does  not  apply 
to  many  of  the  grey  cloth  mills  whose 
material  is  finished  in  a  different 
plant,  due  to  the  many  finishes  which 
are  necessary,  and  also  because  of 
the  great  variety  of  fabrics  produced. 
Because  of  the 

METHOD    OP    MANUFACTURING, 

it  is  not  so  possible  for  a  plant  to  be 
started  in  a  small  way,  and  is  of  de- 
cided disadvantage  where  novelty 
cloths  are  to  be  produced.  The  do- 
mestic manufacturer  has  used  every 
effort  to  build  up  the  business  for 
quantity  production,  and  while  this  is 
of  great  advantage  in  keeping  down 
costs,  it  does  not  allow  style  to  be- 
come of  as  great  importance  as  it  oth- 
erwise would.  Thus,  in  the  foreign 
market  it  is  possible  for  a  buyer  to 
obtain  as  small  a  quantity  as  eight 
pieces  or  320  yards  of  any  ordinary 
fancy  fabric,  while  it  usually  is  not 
possible  in  the  domestic  market  for  a 
purchaser  to  secure  any  fewer  than 
300  pieces  or  18,000  yards.  Possibly 
in  the  majority  of  cases  the  smallest 
amount  of  fancy  cloth  which  a  domes- 
tic manufacturer  will  sell  is  500  pieces 
or  about  30,000  yards.  This  state- 
ment, of  course,  refers  to  the  ordi- 
nary fancy  fabric  known  as  grey 
olotli. 


That  there  is  a  large  field  develop- 
ing in  which  novelty  cloths  are  in  de- 
mand is  recognized  by  those  who  han- 
dle fancy  cloths,  but  the  industry 
is  so  organized  that  there  is  small  op- 
portunity of  attempting  such  produc- 
tion. A  buyer  may  be  able  to  dis- 
tribute from  10  to  50  pieces  of  fancy 
cloth  at  almost  any  price  which  might 
be  named,  whereas  it  would  be  abso- 
lutely impossible  for  him  to  dispose  of 
from  300  to  500  pieces,  the  normal 
quantity  demanded  by  a  domestic  pro- 
ducer. This  is  one  of  the  important 
features  which  must  be  considered  in 
regard  to  fabric  importations, 
ior  quantity  enters  into  the  consider- 
ation as  well  as  price.  Then,  there  is 
the  question  of  style.  A  good  many 
purchasers  desire  to  handle  fabrics 
which  they  are  absolutely  certain  oth- 
ers are  not  offering,  and  often  are  will- 
ing to  pay  a  higher  price  to  obtain 
small  quantities  of  novelty  cloth. 
Whether  such  cloth  is  better  than  that 
which  others  are  offering  at  a  relative 
price  is  not  considered  at  all,  but 
rather  the  fact  that  they  can  place 
large  emphasis  upon  the  exclusive- 
ness  of  the  cloths  they  have  for  sale. 

One  of  the  great  reasons  why  this 
kind  of  manufacturing  has  not  de- 
veloped in  the  domestic  market  is 
through  a  lack  of  ability  in  cloth  mak- 
ing and  styling.  In  order  to  success- 
fully, produce  high- class  fabrics  a 
great  deal  of  ability  and  ingenuity  are 
required,  and  not  only  this  but  a  pro- 
ducer must  be  familiar  to  a  greater  or 
less  extent  with  the  various  kinds  of 
textile  fibres  and  their  combinations. 
Foreign  manufacturers  of  this  charac- 
ter use  cotton,  wool  and  silk  freely  in 
their  productions,  and  in  order  to  get 
the  best  results  experience  is  neces- 
sary. The  domestic  industry  has 
grown  so  fast  that  there  absolutely 
is  not  a  sufficient  number  of  expert 
men  to  operate  all  of  the  present 
plants  in  a  fairly  economical  manner. 
For  any  man  who  is  capable  of  going 
into  a  sir.all  business,  such  as  the 
making  of  high-class,  exclusive  fab- 
rics, there  is  a  much  larger  opportu- 
nity in  running  some  of  the  mills 
which  are  not  especially  successful 
to-day,  and  the  recompense  is  un- 
doubtedly greater  than  could  be  made 


170 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


from  the   operation  of  a  small  plant 
with   little   capital.   This   is 

NOT  ALWAYS  THE  CASE, 
inasmuch  as  v^ertain  small  plants  on 
novelty  fabrics  do  make  very  large 
profits,  but  it  is  generally  true.  It  is 
also  a  fact  that  anyone  who  makes 
novelty  cloths  in  the  domestic  market 
tvill  have  to  get  off  from  the  beaten 
track,  and  this  causes  fear  and  trem- 
bling among  those  who  are  not  pos- 
sessed of  a  large  amount  of  ability 
'n  overcoming  diflScult  situations. 
There  is  one  thing  certain,  and  this 
is  that  it  will  never  be  a  practical 
thing  to  produce  certain  of  the  high- 
class  fabrics  in  the  domestic  mills  as 
they  are  now  organized,  inasmuch  as 
the  detail  is  so  great  that  it  would  up- 
set the  processes  and  cause  large  in- 


iiii  -•  ■  ill 


11!  ■ 


world  for  the  building  of  small  plants 
in  which  expensive  cloths  are  to  be 
made.  We  believe  that  this  will  be 
the  next  step  in  the  development  of 
the  domestic  industry,  and  the  ones 
who  successfully  work  out  the  prob- 
lem will  undoubtedly  obtain  large  re- 
wards in  comparison  with  the  cap;lai 
necessary  for  operation.  The  large 
plant  is  equipped  to  make  staples,  al- 
though there  are  many  fancy  fabrics 
which  come  in  this  classification,  but 
for  the  new  expensive  materials  which 
sell,  especially  because  of  style,  there 
must  be  a  new  development  with 
small  units  as  a  basis. 

The  fabric  which  we  are  to  con- 
sider, and  which  is  illustrated  by  the 
garment  here  presented,  is  one  of 
the  cloths  that  can  be  produced  in  a 


Striped    Tissue. 


creases  in  cost  on  other  fabrics  which 
are  not  justified.  To  make  such  a 
business  successful  it  must  be  run  in 
a  small  way,  and  one  man  must  be 
in  much  more  intimate  touch  with  ev- 
erything in  the  operation  of  the  plant 
than  can  ever  happen  in  most  of  the 
domestic  concerns. 

Judging  from  the  industry 
as  now  operated,  it  would 
seem  ps  if  the  making  of  many  of  the 
exclusive  fabrics  was  prohibited,  and 
although  this  is  true  to  an  extent, 
there   is    every    opportunity     in    the 


small  way,  but  which  shows  quite  a 

HIGH  RANGE  OF  PROFIT 

to  the  maker.  It  is  not  always  ex- 
pensive fabrics  that  contain  compli- 
cated weaves,  although  a  good  many 
of  them  do  at  present.  The  fabric 
considered  is  only  a  plain  weave 
cloth,  and  it  is  the  combination  of  fi- 
bres and  colors  which  makes  it  at- 
tractive. A  short  time  ago,  voiles 
were  in  good  demand,  enormous 
quantities  having  been  produced,  and 
although  these  materials  were  desirable 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


171 


the  quantity  produced  was  such  that  a 
change  in  demand  occurred.  This 
change,  however,  did  not  elim- 
inate certain  of  the  fabrics  or 
ideas  which  are  used  in  the  production 
of  voiles,  and  it  is  likely  that  many 
somewhat  similar  fabrics  will  be  con- 
tinually in  use;  in  fact,  prominent 
sellers  predicted  that  voiles  would  be 
absolutely  worthless  the  present  year. 
Nevertheless  certain  mills  have  had 
quite  a  quantity  of  orders  on  these 
very  cloths  and  undoubtedly  will  an- 
other season.  This  will  occur  be- 
cause the  fabric  seems  more  desirable 
than  other  materials  for  certain  uses, 
and  some  people  will  not  consider  that 
the  fabric  is  not  especially  stylish,  but 
rather  that  it  is  attractive.  A  certain 
amount  of  voile  cloths  are  being  made 
in  a  low  quality  and  sold  at  a  re- 
duced price,  but  they  represent  in  no 
way  the  fabrics  which  will  have  a 
continual  demand.     There  are 

CERTAIN   FEATURES 

in  the  cloth  analyzed  which  are  worth 
mentioning.  The  first  is  that  the 
warp  is  exactly  similar  to  that  in  an 
ordinary  colored  yarn  voile  cloth. 
The  count  is  rather  low,  just  the 
same  as  for  a  voile,  and  the  yarns 
are  made  in  a  manner  somewhat  alike. 
Naturally,  the  use  of  bleached  and 
dyed  yarns  causes  a  greater  amount 
of  labor  and  a  higher  expense  than 
if  a  grey  yarn  voile  were  being  pro- 
duced, but  this  is  a  manufacturing 
feature,  and  there  is  no  great  diffi- 
culty in  the  method  of  producing.  Or- 
dinary voiles  are  of  rather  light 
weight,  but  in  most  instances  they 
are  not  firm,  and  in  certain  cloths  firm- 
ness is  rather  desirable.  If  any 
greater  number  of  picks  than  are 
used  in  an  ordinary  voile  cloth  be  in- 
troduced, the  firmness  will  be  in- 
creased, but  the  desirable  open- 
work effect  will  be  largely  lost.  To 
make  a  light-weight  effect  and  still 
have  a  firm  fabric  there  has  been  used 
for  filling  a  silk  yarn.  This  silk  yarn 
makes  a  light  fabric,  but  does  not  de- 
tract at  all  from  the  voile  effect.  An 
ordinary  silk  yarn  when  reeled  is  full 
of  gum,  the  amount  varying  some- 
what, due  to  different  conditions.  Silk 
under  this  condition  is  not  very  lus- 


trous, although  it  is  smooth  and 
much  finer  than  most  cotton  yarns. 
The  luster  appears  when  the  yarn  is 
boiled  out  and  the  gum  either  par- 
tially or  wholly  removed. 
In  order  to  make   the  crisp 

VOILE   EFFECT 

and  have  no  luster,  this  fabric 
has  been  woven  with  silk  which  has 
not  been  degummed.  This  is  not  a  gen- 
eral practice,  but  it  shows  how  vari- 
ous fibres  and  ideas  must  be  combin- 
ed in  order  to  produce  certain  effects 
which  seem  desirable  at  any  time. 
There  is  some  advantage  in  using 
a  fine  silk  which  is  not  lustrous  for 
filling  yarns,  as  it  allows  warp  stripes 
to  be  more  prominent.  In  the  fabric 
under  discussion  the  colored  stripes 
appear  almost  as  if  they  had  been 
printed,  a  process  in  which  the  fibres 
are  entirely  covered  with  color  on  the 
face.  If  ordinary  white  filling  had 
been  used,  the  colored  stripe  would 
have  been  practically  half  white, 
thereby  creating  a  somewhat  differ- 
ent effect,  and  if  the  filling  had  been 
entirely  colored,  one  stripe  would 
have  been  of  a  solid  color,  while  the 
white  stripe  would  have  been  practi- 
cally half  colored.  The  practice  of 
using  a  silk  which  is  not  degummed 
is  sometimes  adopted  in  making  very 
light  fabrics  in  which  luster  is  unde- 
sirable. 

Sometimes  a  silk  warp  Is  used  with 
cotton  filling  and  at  other  times  a 
cotton  warp  is  used  with  a  silk  fill- 
ing. The  fact  that  the  silk  contains 
gum  gives  the  fabric  a  rather  crisp 
feel,  and  the  material  is  usually  print- 
ed with  all-over  patterns  of 
various  kinds.  Such  printed  pat- 
terns do  not  often  appear  well  on 
heavier  fabrics,  and  the  reason  why 
silk  is  used  is  to  make  a  very  light 
material  with  better  results.  We  have 
explained  at  various  times  the  fea- 
tures of  interest  in  the  pro- 
duction of  voile  cloths;  that 
Is,  that  the  yarn  contains  a 
standard  of  twist  much  higher  than 
that  of  ordinary  yarn,  a  standard 
which  often  varies  from  SVz  to  10 
times  the  square  root  of  the  yarn 
number.  This  extra  twist  causes  the 
yarn    to    contract    quite    a    little    and 


172 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


makes  the  yardage  per  pound  lower 
than  it  otherwise  would  be.  It  also 
makes  the  yarn  much  weaker  than 
it  normally  is,  and  due  to  the  large 
amount  of  twist,  a  steaming  or  siz- 
ing process  must  be  adopted  to  elim- 
inate the  kinking  up  of  the  yarn. 
Yarns  which  are  used  in  voiles  must 
be  made  of  good  cotton  and  spun  well 
to  give  the  best  results.  This  may 
be  observed  through  the  fact  that 
certain  makers  have  had  large  or- 
ders for  voile  cloths  during  recent 
years,  while  others  have  never  been 
able  to  obtain  as  large  orders  or  as 
satisfactory  prices.  Often  yarns 
which  are  used  in  voiles  are  gassed, 
a  process  by  which  projecting  fibres 
are  removed,  making  the  yarn  like 
small  rods.  Sometimes  voile  cloths 
are  piece  mercerized,  this  process  giv- 
ing a  certain  amount  of  luster  which 
makes  the  material  more  desirable,  al- 
though it  does  not  produce  a  luster  to 
compare  with  that  in  a  yarn  which 
contains  what  is  called  soft  twist. 

Many  of  the  fabrics  which  are 
made  in  cotton  mills  and  which  con- 
tain silk  are  under  the  new  tariff 
classified  in  the  "silk  schedule,"  and 
obtain  comparatively  high  rates  of 
protection,  allowing  a  great  many  of 
them  to  be  made  satisfactorily  in 
domestic  mills.  Take  the  fabric  un- 
der discussion.  Without  doubt  upon 
the  lowest  cost  in  a  foreign  mill  the 
domestic  maker  would  obtain  far  more 
protection  than  his  entire  cost  of 
manufacturing,  excluding  the  material. 
This  occurs  through  the  proportion  of 
silk  used  in  the  fabric  making.  Most 
of  the  silk  and  cotton  fabrics  produced 
in  cotton  mills  are  thus 

HIGHLY    PROTECTED, 

and  few  of  such  fabrics  can  be  im- 
ported unless  the  foreign  maker  plans 
the  material  to  be  in  chief  value  of 
cotton,  which  allows  only  a  compara- 
tively small  amount  of  silk  to  be 
used.  Fabrics  of  a  novelty  character 
can  often  be  sold  direct  to  large  re- 
tailers, or  in  any  case,  more  direct 
than  those  which  are  made  in  larger 
quantities,  and  the  advance  in  price 
sopaetimes   does   not   appear  so   great 


as  it  does  on  other  lines  of  fabrics. 
Take  ordinary  silk  cloths  such  as  are 
produced  in  large  quantities.  It  of- 
ten happens  that  a  cloth  which  costs 
about  60  cents  to  manufacture  is  re- 
tailed at  31-25  regularly  or  even  less. 
This  is  only  about  100  per  cent  ad- 
vance on  the  cost  of  making.  Pos- 
sibly the  majority  of  fancy  cotton 
cloths  show  an  advance  of 
anywhere  from  250  to  300  per  cent; 
and  many  of  them  as  much  as  500 
per  cent  advance  on  the  cost  of  mak- 
ing. There  are  very  few  of  the 
high-class  silk  fabrics  which  show  as 
great  advances  as  fancy  cotton  fab- 
rics do  when  the  price  to  consumers 
and  the  cost  of  manufacturing  is  con- 
sidered. 

The  doirestic  manufacturer  of  fancy 
fabrics  produces  them  in  a  very  effi- 
cient manner;  in  fact,  it  is  doubted 
whether  foreign  makers  can  approach 
the  costs  of  some  of  the  domestic 
makers  on  a  good  many  materials, 
but  where  the  difference  occurs  Is  in 
the 

COST  OF  DISTRIBUTION. 

For  a  good  many  mills  competition 
has  forced  prices  to  about  as  low  a 
level  as  can  occur  and  allow  a  suffi- 
cient margin  of  profit,  and  any  fur- 
ther steps  will  force  manufacturers 
to  protect  themselves  and  go  into  dis- 
tributing their  cloth  themselves.  This 
may  not  mean  selling  to  the  consumer 
direct,  for  such  a  method  is  not  gen- 
erally possible,  but  it  does  mean  that 
manufacturers  will  adopt  some  meth- 
od by  which  their  fabrics  will  be- 
come known  to  consumers  and  where- 
by they  will  have  something  to  say 
regarding  the  prices  at  which  their 
materials  are  sold.  If  prices  are  not 
lowered  their  going  into  distribution 
will  allow  them  to  obtain  certain  of 
the  large  profits  which  are  now  ob- 
tained by  others.  The  development 
of  fancy  cloth  making  in  small  quan- 
tities has  yet  to  occur  in  the  domestic 
market,  but  when  it  does  occur  the 
methods  of  distribution  will  be  watch- 
ed carefully  and  without  doubt  larger 
manufacturers  will  profit  by  them. 
The  method  of  obtaining  the  yarn 
weights   is  as  follow^; 


I 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


173 


1,652  ends  -h    (100/2   X    840)    =  .0370.   weight  warp  per  yard  of  woven  cloth. 

of   white   warp   without   take-up.  SO  picks  X  49V<i"  width  In  reed  X  36     ^    ^  ^^^ 

4%    take-up   in    weaving.  gg/, 

.0370    -i-    .96    =    .0385,    total    weight   of  white  yards    of    filling    per    yard    of    cloth. 

warp    per   yard    of   woven    cloth.  3  geo    -^    225,000    yards    (silk)    =    .0176.    total 

1,470  ends  -h    (100/2    X    840)    =   .0350,  weight  weight  of   filling   per  yard   of   woven   cloth. 

of  colored    warp    without    take-up.  .0385    -f-   .0365    -f   .0176   =   .0926.   total  weight 

4%   take-up  in  weaving.  per    yard. 

.0350   H-   .96   =   .0365,   total  weight  of  colored  1.0000    -4-    .0926    =    10.80    yards    per    lb. 

PATTERN. 
100/2   Sea  Island  combed   white        I   48   I  I  I   14   I  I  I   48   I      =      1,552 

100/2   Sea  Island  combed   colored    1  I  I   14   |  I   14   1  I  I      =     1.470 

104  X  3.022 

18/20  silk  filling;    80  picks  per  inch. 
60  reed,   49%"  width  in  reed.   47"  finished  width. 
64    X    80  finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Labor,  waste, 
twisting. 
Cotton,      dyeing,  etc. 
100/2  S.  I.  combed  white;  1%"  staple;  20  hank  dou.  rov.,        28i4c.  59c.  =      87%c. 

100/2  P.  i.  combed  colorfrt;   1%"  staple;  20  hank  dou.  rov.,      28i4c.  65c.  =      93J4e. 

18/20  silk  filling;   225,000  yards  per  lb.    (ready  for   use)  =        $4.16 

COST. 

1.552  ends  100/2  Sea  Island  white   +   4%    take-up =   .0385    @    87i4c.      =  $  .0336 

1.470  ends  100/2   Sea   Island   colored   -f-    4%   take-up ^   .03C5    @    93V4c.      =  .0341 

80   picks   18/20   silk   filling    =   .0176    @      $4.10     =  .0722 

Weaving    .0483 

Expenses      .0252 

$   .2134 
Finishing     -0075 

i  .2209 
Selling     .0111 

Mill    cost $.2320 

Plain  weave. 

Yards  per  pound  10.80. 

Retail  price   $1   per  yard. 


ARTIFICIAL  SILK  NOVELTY 
DRESS  GOODS 

There  is  a  greater  amount  of  in- 
terest in  fancy  cloth  making  at  pres- 
ent in  regar(i  to  the  possibilities  in 
use  of  artificial  silk  than  there  is 
in  about  any  other  feature  which 
makes  cloth  salable.  The  method  of 
making  and  characteristics  of  artifi- 
cial silk  have  been  described  in  these 
columns  quite  extensively  in  the  past, 
and  there  is  little  to  be  said  as  far  as 
the  cloth  maker  is  concerned,  inas- 
much as  he  is  interested  in  aciapting 
this  material  to  his  fabrics  rather  than 
in  the  original  production  of  the  fibre. 
There  are  certain  features  which 
make  artificial  silk  desirable  in  fabrics 
and  there  are  other  features  which, 
from  a  manufacturing  standpoint, 
make  it  rather  undesirable. 

Possibly  the  fact  that  it  loses  strength 


very  extensively  when  moistened 
has  been  mentioned  as  prominently 
as  any  other  characteristic,  but  the 
method  which  has  been  used  by  fab- 
ric makers  in  adapting  this  material 
to  their  cloths  causes  this  item  to  be 
of  comparatively  small  importance, 
in  fact,  so  far  as  the  ultimate  consum- 
er is  concerned,  the  fibre  might  just 
about  as  well  be  artificial  silk  as  the 
real  article.  Then  there  are  disad- 
vantages in  the  use  of  this  material 
by  a  manufacturer.  The  fibre  is  quite 
slippery  and  rather  stiff,  in  some  in- 
stances being  undesirable  from  such 
cause. 

Then,  it  also  is  not  made  in  as  fine 
sizes  as  silk  or  if  made,  it  is  not  a 
practical  thing  from  the  standpoint 
of  most  manufacturers.  Because  the 
yarn  is  of  quite  heavy  size  it  is  im- 
possible to  use  it  in  certain  fine  fab- 
rics, that  is,  the  heavy  yarn  will  not 
weave  satisfactorily  in  a  fine  reed. 
The    passing   of    the   reed    back   and 


174 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


forth  causes  the  yarn  to  wear  and  it 
loses  strength,  thus  causing  break- 
ages.    This 

FRAYING  PROCESS 
also  causes  fibres  to  be  worn  so  that 
they  project  from  the  main  strand 
of  yarn  and  this  is  sometimes  ob- 
jectionable. There  are  very  many 
fabrics,  however,  in  whicli  artificial 
silk  in  ordinary  sizes  can  be  used 
successfully.  Everyone  realizes  that 
many  cloths  have  been  in  demand 
which  have  had  a  rather  low  count, 
such  as  voiles,  crepes,  and  various 
kinds  of  eponge  cloths. 

In  these  materials  artificial  silk  has 
been  used  quite  extensively  and  will 
be  used  in  similar  cloths  much  more 
so  in  the  future.  Recently,  we  were 
shown  a  cloth  in  which  a  double  nov- 
elty yam  was  used,  one  of  the 
strands  being  a  nub  yarn  composed 
entirely  of  artificial  silk.  The  do- 
mestic manufacturer  has  to  consider 
very  seriously  the  fact  that  he  can- 
not afford  to  use  very  much  extra 
labor  in  his  fabric  making,  even  on 
the  extreme  novelties  which  are  pro- 
duced in  the  market.  For  this  reason, 
it  is  impossible  to  use  artificial  silk 
in  fabrics  here  as  extensively  as  it  is 
in  foreign  countries,  but  it  is  undoubt- 
edly possible  to  use  a  much  greater 
quantity  than  is  at  present  noted. 
When  a  real  silk  is  being  used  of  a 
coarse  size  there  are  very  many  in- 
stances where  an  artificial  silk  could 
be  substituted  to  advantage  not  only 
so  far  as  the  price  is  concerned,  but 
also  in  regard  to  the  ease  of  pro- 
duction. 

VALUE  OF  SMALL  DETAILS. 

One  of  the  great  reasons  why  many 
foreign  fancy  fabrics  appear  better 
than  domestic  cloths  of  a  similar 
character  is  because  of  the  greater 
care  used  in  cloth  construction  and 
in  placing  the  weave  upon  the  fabric. 
Due  to  a  greater  amount  of  expe- 
rience, and  a  greater  production  on 
fancy  fabrics,  the  foreign  manufac- 
turer has  developed  ideas  which  as 
yet  are  often  submerged  in  the  quan- 
tity production  methods  adopted  gen- 
erally in  domestic  mills.  Take  the 
fabric  which  we  have  analyzed  for 
an  example.  There  are  certain  arti- 
flcial  silk  yarns  which  can  be  regularly 


obtained  in  the  market,  but  there  is 
not  the  wide  variety  of  sizes  which 
can  be  found  in  cotton  yarns.  Unless 
the  correct  size  of  cotton  yarn  is  used 
in  combination  with  the  artificial  silk 
it  will  not  produce  especially  attrac- 
tive results.  Often  fabrics  are  made 
where  the  various  yarns  used  do  not 
combine  in  the  manner  best  suited  to 
produce   the    most   attractive    results. 

Another  feature  which  is  often  lost 
sight  of  is  the  fact  that 

A  GOOD  SELVAGE 
on  a  piece  of  cloth  will  make  it  appear 
much  better  and  sometimes  bring  a 
higher  price.  It  is  not  always  neces- 
sary that  the  selvage  be  a  wide  one, 
but  rather  that  it  combines  well  with 
the  cloth  and  does  not  have  a  ragged 
or  uneven  appearance.  There  are 
many  cloths  produced  which  would 
appear  far  better  if  the  yarns  in  the 
selvage  were  reeded  differently.  The 
weave  also  should  be  adapted  to  the 
cloth  construction.  There  are  many 
converters  in  the  domestic  market 
who  will  have  a  certain  fabric  made 
by  the  mill  and  it  will  appear  entirely 
satisfactory.  Afterwards,  they  will 
pick  out  various  designs  to  be  used 
upon  this  ground  cloth  and  the  results 
will  not  be  as  attractive  as  was  ex- 
pected. 

It  is  absolutely  impossible  to  place 
a  weave  upon  a  cloth  and  expect  it  to 
appear  exactly  as  well  as  some  other 
weave  does,  inasmuch  as  the  combina- 
tion is  not  the  same  and  the 

CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION 
and  weave  combination  make  the  re- 
sults somewhat  different.  We  have 
seen  many  instances  where  purchas- 
ers applied  new  weaves  to  fabrics 
formerly  handled,  and  because  the 
results  were  not  at  all  like  those  pre- 
viously obtained,  have  criticized  the 
mill  severely,  claiming  that  the  cotton 
used,  the  method  of  making,  or  cloth 
construction  was  changed  in  order  to 
make  a  higher  profit,  while  such  was 
not  the  case.  There  are  very  few 
reliable  cotton  manufacturers  who 
manipulate  their  fabrics  when  sample 
pieces  have  been  made  and  supplied 
to  buyers.  It  will  be  noted  that  the 
weave  of  the  cloth  shows  the  artificial 
silk  to  advantage  and  some  other 
method  might  not  hav«  been  nearly  so 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


ITS 


satisfactory.    It  will  also  be  seen  that 

THE  WEAVE  HAS  MUCH  TO  DO 
with  the  cloth  effect  which  has  been 
obtained.  In  each  stripe  the  three 
cotton  threads  weave  exactly  the 
same,  namely  plain  weave,  while  the 
two  threads  of  silk  weave  the  same 
In  most  instances.  This  allows  the 
various  threads  to  slide  together,  and 
the  fact  that  the  plain  weave  in  the 
different  stripes  changes  holds  the 
stripes  apart  and  creates  a  regular 
ooen  space.  Naturally,  this  open 
space  is  originally  created  by  having 
an  empty  dent  in  the  reed,  but  un- 
less the  cloth  construction  is  correct 
and  the  weave  used  one  which  corre- 
sponds, the  various  threads  will  spread 


ability,  the  construction  and  design 
can  be  adapted  more  satisfactorily 
and  much  better  results  produced. 
Attractiveness  is  one  of  the  main  fea- 
tures to  be  considered  in  high-class 
cotton  fabrics  and  it  pays  to  place 
emphasis  upon  the  details  when  the 
cloth  is  being  planned.  Often,  the 
effects  of  good  yarn  and  good  weav- 
ing are  more  than  counteracted  by  a 
small  amount  of  carelessness  in  mak- 
ing the  design. 

HIGH-CLASS  YARN  A  NECESSITY. 
We  do  not  believe  there  are  many 
in  the  market  who  realize  the  great 
advance  which  has  occurred  during 
the  past  five  years  in  the  quality  of 
the   yarn   which   is   used   in   many  of 


^1  tff  l^iii#i'•i#ll■li:|'i•s>l  f  |.itl,| 
i^'g-js;  3  f  ^s.;i*'=:  i.s  i  i  ii's'  i  f  I  •■11,1  U  s -i  -•=. 

llllllllllllll 

M|i|iiif  if  i  l||i tilfltHf  I  ii-|ll.i 

||l||||j|iyj|J|||| 

lllililliiltltiiilltilltillifllii 
■'  =  '^^  ■iilll:ilifii 

Artificial  Silk  Novelty  Dress  Goods 


i=lt 


5siS|g|gg 


radically  when  the  cloth  is  being  fin- 
ished and  no  open  spaces  will  appear. 
In  a  good  many  openwork  fabrics, 
A  SMALL  LENO  THREAD 
is  used  alongside  of  the  stripes  in 
order  to  hold  them  firmly  in  place, 
this  being  noted  more  particularly 
when  the  stripes  are  wide.  In  certain 
instances,  it  has  been  known  that 
manufacturers  have  used  silk  for 
stripes  or  checks  and  then  eaten  out 
this  silk  in  order  to  create  clear  open- 
work effects.  This  method,  however, 
is  not  generally  used  because  of  the 
cost.  A  very  small  amount  of  extra 
labor,  and  oftentimes  through  no  ex- 
tra  labor    but   rather    through    more 


the  high-class  domestic  fabrics.  This 
statement  does  not  mean  that  there 
is  not  still  a  large  field  for  improve- 
ment, but  rather  that  results  are  much 
better  than  formerly.  There  never 
has  been  any  great  amount  of  criti- 
cism regarding  the  strength  of  most 
domestic  yarns,  but  there  has  been  a 
great  deal  of  criticism  regarding  their 
regularity.  Domestic  makers  use 
much  longer  staples  and  more  twist 
for  their  yarns  than  do  foreign  mak- 
ers and  this  accounts  for  the  greater 
strength  even  though  the  yarn  is  not 
so  good  in  appearance.  One  reason 
why  the  yarns  made  in  domestic 
mills    are    better    than    they    were    is 


176 


A   COTTON   FABRICS  aLOSSARY 


because  makers  have  been  forced  in- 
to producing  better  materials  or  else 
lose  a  portion  of  their  business. 

Voiles  and  many  other  fabrics  of  a 
similar  character  have  been  in  large 
demand  and  unless  high-class  yarns 
were  used  results  were  not  especially 
attractive.  A  great  deal  of  criticism 
has  been  noted  in  regard  to  the  finish 
applied  to  fabrics  by  finishers  of  do- 
mestic cloths.  It  may  be  that  such 
parties  are  partly  responsible  for  the 
finish  being  less  desirable  than  on 
foreign  fabrics,  but  manufacturers 
themselves  are  also  partly  to  blame. 
It  is  not  possible  to  obtain  as  good  a 
finish  on  a  fabric  in  which  uneven 
yarns  are  used  as  it  is  on  one  in  which 
the  yarns  are  very  regular,  and  this  is 
one  of  the  reasons  why  many  foreign 
fabrics  take  a  better  finish.  Mule 
spinning  and  a  larger  amount  of  labor 
have  a  tendency  to  produce  yarn  of  a 
regular  character,  while  quantity  pro- 
duction and  ring  spinning  do  not  tend 
to  make  yarn  of  an  especially  high 
quality.  As  long  as  quantity  rather 
than  quality  is  the  item  of  importance, 
just  so  long  will  the  finish  of  domestic 
fabrics  be  criticized  when  compared 
with  certain  foreign  materials. 

EASY  DESIGN  FOR  SAMPLE. 

There  are  a  great  many,  having 
had  little  experience  in  the  matter, 
who  consider  that  the  making  of  de- 
signs on  most  jacquard  cotton  fabrics 
is  a  much  more  difficult  process  than 
the  making  of  designs  for  fancy  dobby 
cloths.  This  is  not  true  in  a  majority 
of  instances,  and  the  fabric  which  we 
are  considering  is  a  good  illustration 
of  the  simpleness  of  design  work  for 
many  materials.  Without  doubt,  an 
ordinary  workman  could  complete  a 
design  such  as  is  noted  on  the  cloth 
considered  in  an  hour's  time  or  even 
less.  It  is  not  necessary  to  paint  in 
the  entire  weave,  but  rather  it  is  only 
essential  to  paint  in  the  portions  of 
the  weave  where  the  artificial  silk 
floats  on  the  surface.  The  plain 
weave  ground  can  be  entirely  omitted 
and  introduced  by  the  party  who 
places  the  weave  upon  the  cards. 

It  may  be  well  to  note  that  the  arti- 
ficial silk  floats  for  an  odd  number  of 
picks  in  every  case  when  the  figure 
is  being  made.    This  Is  necessary  be- 


cause of  the  plain  weave  on  the  other 
threads  in  the  cloth.  Sometimes  it  is 
rather 

DIFFICULT  FOR  A  BEGINNER 

to  understand  this  fact,  but  by  paint- 
ing in  the  ground  weave  around  a 
figure  it  is  easy  enough  to  see  how 
the  floats  all  become  odd  numbers. 
The  total  cost  for  design,  cards  and 
other  features  for  a  fabric  such  as 
the  one  considered  is  not  over  one- 
tenth  of  a  cent  per  yard  added  to  the 
total  cost  of  making.  Of  course,  a 
cloth  with  a  greater  number  of  picks 
per  inch,  or  one  upon  which  a  great 
deal  more  labor  was  expended  in  de- 
sign making,  would  cost  much  larger 
amount,  but  for  many  cloths  the  cost 
is  of  minor  importance.  The  weave 
and  cloth  construction  have  Leen  con- 
sidered sufficiently  in  this  material, 
for  the  best  results  have  been  ob- 
tained. Many  fabrics  of  a  similar 
character  have  been  sold  which  do  not 
compare  at  all  with  the  one  con- 
sidered. 

PRODUCTION  AND  PROFITS. 

One  feature  which  has  appealed 
particularly  to  manufacturers  of  voiles 
and  similar  cloths  is  that  there  has 
been  quite  a  satisfactory  amount  of 
profit  in  their  making.  This  is  true 
at  present  on  all  of  the  good  grades, 
and  was  previously  true  even  upon 
most  of  the  lower  grades.  This  sat- 
isfactory profit  has  resulted  because 
the  materials  contain  a  comparatively 
small  number  of  picks  per  inch,  and 
there  was  a  large  yardage  produced 
per  loom  and  a  low  weaving  and  ex- 
pense cost.  The  material  or  the  yarn 
which  was  used  in  such  a  fabric 
form  a  much  larger  proportion  of  the 
total  cost  than  it  did  on  many  fabrics 
which  had  been  previously  made,  and 
for  this  reason,  there  was  a  greater  op- 
portunity to  obtain  a  higher  profit.  A 
very  small  amount  per  yard  creates  a 
satisfactory  dividend  because  the  total 
amount  is  quite  large,  due  to  the 
amount  of  cloth  which  can  be  woven. 
Naturally,  the  demand  for  the  material 
was  partly  responsible  for  the  large 
PROFITS  WHICH  MANY  SECURED. 

An  item  which  is  seldom  considered 
at  all  by  manufacturers,  and  by  those 
who  do  consider  it  not  in  an  accurate 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


m 


enough  manner,  is  that  which  refers 
to  the  profits  that  should  be  secured 
on  different  fabrics.  Tlie  method  most 
eenerally  adopted  in  fancy  cloth  mak- 
ing is  to  figure  profits  upon  a  basis  of 
a  certain  amount  per  loom  per  week. 
If  a  fabric  produces  one  hundred  yards 
per  week  and  a  manufacturer  desires 
to  make  $2  per  loom  per  week,  the 
practice  is  to  quote  a  price  which 
shows  about  2  cents  per  yard  profit. 
This  method  is  approximately  correct 
for  fabrics  which  make  it  possible  for 
all  the  machinery  in  a  plant  to  be 
operated,  but  this  is  seldom  noted  on 
most  fancy  cloths. 

Let  us  illustrate  this  point  a  little 
more  clearly.  A  fancy  mill  is  planned 
to  make  a  certain  kind  of  cloths,  and 
has  a  layout  with  a  special  number 
of  preparatory  machines  and  a  cer- 
tain number  of  spindles  per  loom.  Let 
us  say  that  a  mill  contains  40  spindles 
per  loom,  which  would  be  satisfactory 
for  many  fancy  cloths.  Recently, 
many  ■mills  have  made  single  yarn 
voiles  and  also  large  quantities  of 
crepes  and  other 

SPECIAL  YARN  MATERIALS. 

On  many  of  these  cloths  almost  twice 
as  many  spindles  per  loom  are  neces- 
sary as  for  ordinary  work,  and  still 
no  change  is  made  in  the  amount 
which  a  manufacturer  expects  to  make 
on  the  loom  basis.  This  is  an  in- 
correct method,  because  it  will  not 
produce  the  profits  which  a  manufac- 
turer desires,  the  loom  either  earning 
more  or  less  than  the  manufacturer 
has  planned.  When  a  greater  number 
of  spindles  are  necessary  to  produce 
the  yarn  for  the  loom  than  was 
planned,  the  profits  are  not  enough  to 
take  care  of  the  spindles  and  other 
machinery  which  are  necessary  or  idle 
through  the  cloth  being  made. 

If  less  snindles  per  loom  are  being 
used  the  loom  is  earning  more  than 
it  should  to  create  the  dividends  ex- 
pected. There  should  also  be  some 
provision  made  for  the  different  kinds 
of  looms  emnloyed.  It  is  not  a  cor- 
rect policy  to  exnect  a  jacnuard  box 
loom  to  earn  monev  at  the  same  basic 
rate  as  does  a  dobbv  or  a  plain  loom, 
although  this  method  is  in  more  or 
less  general  use.  Manufacturers  have 
claimed  that  this  policy  is  necessary. 


inasmuch  as  jacquard  loom  fabrics  are 
sold  upon  practically  the  same  basis 
as  dob  by  materials,  but  the  outlay 
necessary  to  produce  jacquard  cloth  is 
somewhat  greater  and  for  this  reason 
the  amount  obtained  per  yard  should 
be  varied  accordingly.  Much  more 
care  is  being  given  to  these  items  than 
previously,  and  the  time  will  come 
when  manufacturers  will  know  more 
pf^curately  just  what  their  various 
machines  are  earning. 

TARIFF   ON   ARTIFICIAL    SILK. 

In  regard  to  fabrics  in  which  artifi- 
cial silk  has  been  used,  there  is  quitP 
a  little  discussion  being  heard  and 
some  uncertainty  in  regard  to  the 
rafps  of  duty.  The  fact  that  provision 
was  made  for  artificial  silk  and  arti- 
ficial silk  fabrics  in  the  silk  schedule, 
but  that  no  provision  was  made  in  the 
cotton  schedule,  is  a  subject  for  criti- 
cism. When  a  fabric  is  woven  from 
artificial  silk,  and  the  value  of  the 
f»'-tificial  silk  is  greater  than  the  other 
materials  used,  the  fabric  is  classified 
in  the  silk  schedule  and  the  rate  of 
duty  is  60  per  cent.  When  there  is  a 
greater  amount  of  value  of  cotton 
varn  in  the  fabric,  the  material  is 
'■^qssed  in  the  cotton  schedule  and  the 
rate  of  dutv  is  30  per  cent.  This  is 
a  wide  variation  and  will  undoubt- 
edly cause  quite  a  little  trouble 
when  the  fabric  is  anywhere  near  the 
dividing  line.  The  reason  the  rate 
of  duty  is  30  per  cent  is  because  no 
special  provision  was  made  for  this 
sort  of  cloth  and  it  is  classified  under 
catch-all  paragranh  No.  266. 

Take  the  fabric  which  we  have 
analyzed  for  an  example.  A  mill 
which  purchases  fine  yarns  in  order 
to  make  a  cloth  of  this  character 
would  cause  the  fabric  to  be  in  the 
cotton  classification,  whereas  if  the 
artificial  silk  was  handled  an  exces- 
sive number  of  times,  or  if  only  small 
quantities  were  purchased,  the  fabric 
would,  from  a  maniif»rturiT;g  sta'id- 
point,  be  in  chief  value  of  artificial 
silk.  Then,  many  of  tlv^se  fabrics  a'"e 
pipoe-dved  rather  thnn  yarn-dyed. 
The  losses  in  finishing  are  not  the 
same  for  artificial  and  for  real  silk, 
and  the  basis  which  is  used  for  or- 
dinary silk  cannot  be  used  at  all  in 
making  a  correct  estimate  regarding 


178 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


chief  values.  A  fabric  in  which  the 
chief  value  is  cotton,  and  in  which 
a  dobby  weave  has  been  used,  will 
have  no  lower  rate  of  duty  than  if  a 
fancy  jacquard  weave  had  been  used, 
inasmuch  as  the  rate  of  duty  for  both 
will  be  30  per  cent. 

This  is  not  correct  theoretically,  be- 
cause 

ORDINARY  COTTON  FABRICS 
with  a  dobby  weave  are  assessed  ac- 
cording to  their  yarn  size,  but  a 
similar  fabric  with  a  jacquard  weave 
is  30  per  cent.  A  fabric  in  which  a 
single  thread  of  artificial  silk  is  used 
will  carry  as  high  a  rate  of  duty  as 
one  in  which  quite  a  large  portion  of 
artificial  silk  has  been  used,  and  this 
t>eoretically  is  not  correct  and  will  un- 
doubtedly cause  quite  a  large  amount 
of  silk  to  be  used  when  any  kind  of 
a  novelty  fabric  is  to  be  made.    Under 


the  present  tariff  law  there  seems  to 
he  very  little  equality  in  the  various 
rates  for  different  kinds  of  cloth, 
the  discrepancies  undoubtedly  being 
greater  in  number  than  were  noted 
under  the  previous  tariff  law.  The 
method  of  obtaining  the  weights  of 
yarn  and  the  weight  of  the  cloth  as 
it  is  produced  by  the  loom  is  a  com- 
paratively simple  process  and  is  as 
follows: 

1,542  ends  -4-    (100/2    X    840)    =  .0367.   weight 

of    cotton    warp    without    take-up. 
12%    take-up  in  weaving. 
.0367    H-    .88    =   .0417,    total   weight  of   cotton 

warp    per    woven    yard. 
964   ends   -h    30,000  yards   =   .0321,   weight   of 

art.    silk    without    take-up. 
6%    take-up    In    weaving. 
.0321     H-    .94    =    .0342,    total    weight    Of    art. 

silk  per  woven  yard. 
52  picks  X  44 1^"  width  in  reed  X  36" 

=     2,314 

36" 

yards   of   filling   per   yard. 
2,314   -4-    (100/2    X    840)   =  .0551,  total  weight 

of    filling    per    woven   yard. 
.0417    -f    .0342    -f   .0551    =   .1310,    total  weight 

per   yard. 
1.0000     -H     .1310     =     7.63     yards    per     pound 

(grey). 


100/2   S.   I.   combed,    hard  twist 
150   Denier  artificial   silk 


PATTERN. 
1  1 


1     — 

24 


1,542     Beam  1. 
964     Beam  2. 


482  X 


2,506  total  ends. 


100/2   S.   I.   combed,   hard  twist;   52  picks. 

33  reed;   44%"  width   in  reed,   41"   grey   width,   SgVs"   finished   width. 
64   X    52  finished  count,   over  all. 

YARNS. 


100/2  .S.  I.   combed  warp,   1%"  staple.  20  hank  dou.  rov., 
100/2  S.   I.   combed  filling,   1%"  staple,   20  hank  dou.   rov., 
150   Denier  art.    silk,    30,000   yards   per   lb. 


I.,abor, 

waste,  twist- 

Cotton. 

ing,   etc. 

28  %c. 

53%c.          = 

82Mc. 

28M!C. 

47Vic.          = 

75%c. 

= 

$2.16 

1,542  ends  100/2  S.  I.  combed  warp   +   12%   take-up =   .0417    ®    82%c.      =  $  .0343 

964  ends   150  Denier  art.   silk    +    6%   take-up =   .0342    (5)      $2.15      =  .0736 

52   picks   100/2   S.    I.   combed   filling =   .0551    @    75%c.      =  .0418 

Weaving    .0316 

Expenses     .0164 

$  .1977 

Selling    (grey) .0040 

Mill   cost   (grey) $  .2017 

Mill    price    (about) $.2200 

Cost   of   dyeing   and   finishing .0350 

Converter's    expenses .0200 

Converter's    cost    $   .2750 

Selling    price    (about) .3350 

Retail    price    .5000 

Foregoing  prices  estimated  on  domestl''   basis  of  direct  selling 
Actual   retail   price   $1   per  yard,    Imported. 
Rate  of  duty   30%. 
Tards  per  pound  7.63   (frey). 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


179 


SWIVEL  DOTTED  SWISS 

A  variety  of  cotton  fabric  which  is 
gradually  becoming  of  greater  impor- 
tance in  textile  distribution  is  that 
class  of  materials  which  are  known  as 
swivel  fabrics.  These  are  not  pro- 
duced in  the  domestic  market  to  any 
extent;  in  fact,  it  is  probable  that  no 
•more  than  one  or  two  mills  are  capa- 
ble of  making  such  fabrics  at  all. 
There  is  a  good  reason  why  such  a 
condition  exists,  mainly  being  that 
jacquard  work  represents  the  highest 
type  of  ordinary  woven  fabric  which 
can  be  made,  and  swivel  work 
is  intricate  jacquard  weaving. 
Because     of     the     newness     of     the 


is  a  wide  variety  of  figures  of  a  much 
more  intricata  character,  which  are 
regularly  produced,  though  their  con- 
struction varies  according  to  the  style 
of  figure  in  demand. 

Because  there  are  very  few  looms 
capable  of  producing  similar  fabrics 
in  the  domestic  market,  most  of  such 
cloth  is  made  in  foreign  mills,  though 
it  is  very  probable  that  there  will  be 
an  increase  ia  the  domestic  produc- 
tion in  the  near  future.  As  a  general 
thing,  swivel  fabrics  made  from  cotton 
are  used  for  waists,  dresses  and  other 
similar  purposes  where  an  expensive 
and  rather  light  fabric  is  desirable. 
Due  to  the  method  of  producing,  the 
labor  and  expense  cost  of  making 
these  fabrics  is  much  higher  than  it 


Double   Shuttle   Swivel    Fabric. 


domestic  fancy  goods  indu^^try,  there 
really  has  been  very  little  time 
for  the  development  of  fancy  jacquard 
weaves,  inasmuch  as  simple  jacquard 
fabrics  are  not  produced  in  as  large 
amounts  as  might  be  possible.  Fab- 
rics made  by  the  swivel  mechanism 
are  oftentimes  composed  entirely  of 
silk,  but  there  are  certain  styles  of 
cloth  which  are 

MADE  ENTIRELY  FROM  COTTON, 
and  which  have  a  wide  distribution. 
Possibly,  fabrics  similar  to  that  ana- 
lyzed illustrate  the  largest  selling 
lines  of  swivel  production,   but  there 


is  in  practically  all  lines  of  domestic 
made  fabrics. 

It  is  probable  that  in  most  cotton 
swivel  fabrics  the  material  used  forms 
less  than  25  per  cent  of  the  total  cost 
with  labor  and  other  items  constitut- 
ing the  remaining  cost.  The  main 
characteristic  of  most  swivel  fabrics 
is  a  very  light  ground  decorated  with 
relatively  heavy  spots  or  figures.  In 
a  good  many  instances,  the  fabrics 
are  used  as  overdresses,  with  the  fig- 
ures showing  contrast  with  the  ground 
cloth,   and   also   with   the  underdress. 

In    a   general   way   there   are  three 


180 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


methods  which  are  largely  used  in 
decorating  a  liglit  fabric  ground  with 
an  extra  figure.  First,  is  the  method 
ordinarily  knov.'n  as  box  loom  work, 
in  A.  hich  an  extra  filling  of  a  heavy 
character  is  inserted  for  the  whole 
width  of  the  cloth,  and  v/hen  the 
weaving  operation  is  completed  a  por- 
tion of  the  extra  heavy  filling  is 
sheared  away,  leaving  only  the  light 
ground  cloth  with  heavy  interwoven 
figures.  These  box  loom  figures  are 
made  on  a  wide  variety  of  fabrics,  but 
can  usually  be  distinguished  very 
easily.  A  second  method  of  produc- 
tion is  that  ordinarily  known  as  lappet 
work.  In  this  method  an  extra  mo- 
tion is  attached  to  the  loom  lay.  In 
this  extra  motion  there  are  a  certain 
number  of  needles  which  project  down- 
ward, the  number  of  needles  depend- 
ing i^pon  the  pattern  being  woven,  and 
these  needles  containing  ends  of  yarn 
are  moved  backward  and  forward  as 
the  pattern  is  n.ade.  Sometimes  the 
patterns  are  trailing  ones,  while  in 
other  instances  Ihey  are  various  kinds 
of  spots. 

In  the  first  case  shearing  is  not  nec- 
essary, while  in  the  second  case,  a 
succeeding  process  is  necessary  to  cut 
away  the  loose  thread  which  is  noted 
because  a  single  thread  continues  to 
form  succeeding  spots  and  passes 
from  one  to  the  other.  This  kind  of 
woven  figure  can  be  easily  distin- 
guished from  a  box  loom  woven  figure, 
because  each  spot  is  made  from  a 
single  thread,  whereas  this  does  not 
occur  when  a  box  loom  is  used.  It  is, 
however,  not  so  easy  to  distinguish 
certain  kinds  of  lapnet  work  from  cer- 
tain kinds  of  swivel  work,  though,  in 
the  mqioritv  of  instanops  thorp  5r  tio 
nuestion  reearding  the  method  of  pro- 
duction. "^Tierever  a  certain  type  of 
figure  can  be  produced  by  either  lap- 
pet or  swivel  motion,  the  difference  in 
method  used  can  be  noted  through  the 
irregularity  in  lappet  motion  opera- 
tion as  seen  in  the  woven  cloth  and 
also  by  the  fact  that  the  ends  of  the 
sheared  lapnet  FPot  are  practicallv  al- 
ways on  the  face  of  the  material, 
whereas,  on  swivel  work  they  are  on 
the  back  of  the  cloth.  Swivel  work  is 
not  only  the  most  expensive  method 
of  making  decorated  cloths,  such  as 


are  described,  but  is  also  best,  though 
the  most  compli  ated  method. 

COST  OF  PRODUCTION. 

The  various  methods  in  relation  to 
cost  of  production  are,  first,  lappet; 
second,  box  loom  work,  and  third, 
swivel  work.  The  various  swivel  fig- 
ures as  woven  are  made  as  exact  as 
any  jacquard  woven  figures;  in  fact, 
the  jacquard  motion  is  responsible  for 
the  interweaving  of  a  swivel  yarn  and 
the  motion  can  be  depended  upon  to 
produce  exactly  the  same  effect  in  ev- 
ery repeat  of  the  pattern.  To  a  cer- 
tain extent  swivel  work  appears  some- 
what similar  to  lappet.  There  is  ordi- 
narily only  one  thread  used  in  making 
each  figure,  that  is,  if  only  one  bank 
of  swivel  shuttles  be  used,  and  the 
swivel  yarn  does  not  pass  across  the 
entire  warp,  but  rather  incerweaves 
where  the  figure  is  being  for^xied.  In 
swivel  work  there  is  a  small  spool  of 
yarn  used  for  each  swivel  shuttle, 
whereas  in  ordinary  lappet  work,  all 
of  the  various  threads  forming  similar 
figures  are  nlared  unon  a  laree  snool 
which  is  placed  unon  the  loom  frame. 
There  are  a  good  many  consumers 
who  do  not  distinguish  between  swivel 
and  embroideroQ  cloths.  In  a  swivel 
woven  fabric  the  ends  which  decorate 
the  cloth  are  always  in  a  horizontal 
position,  because  the  swivel  shuttles 
operate  in  a  similar  manner  to  ordi- 
nary loom  shuttles,  while  in  an  em- 
broidered fabric  the  varn  which  deco- 
rates the  fabric  is  likely  to  be  at  any 
angle  to  the  warp  and  filMng.  accord- 
ing to  the  pattern  which  is  being 
made. 

METHOD  OF  OPERATION. 

To  a  good  many,  especially  in  the 
domestic  market,  the  method  by 
which  r.wivel  patterns  are  made  is  not 
especially  clear,  and  while  it  is  not 
possible  to  give  any  detailed  explana- 
tion in  a  short  descrintion.  neverthe- 
less it  may  be  well  to  state  a  few  of 
the  fundamental  fpatures.  In  the  first 
place,  there  are  three  general  tvnes  of 
swivel  mprhanisms  us^d.  Possibly, 
the  one  which  is  n=!ed  most  extensive- 
ly is  that  one  wherein  rertain  small 
shuttles  of  a  ho^izontnl  nature  are  in- 
troduced into  the  fabric  where  the 
swivel  figure  Is  to  be  made.     These 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


181 


^inall  shuttles  contain  very  small 
spools  of  yarn,  and  there  may  be  more 
than  one  bank  of  the  shuttles  accord- 
ing to  the  fabric  to  be  produced,  or 
the  loom  mechanism.  These  small 
shuttles  have  to  correspond  to  the  tie- 
up  of  the  jacquard  machines,  and  vice 
versa.  If  a  600-jacquard  machine  is 
used  with  a  tie-up  of  100  hooks  per 
inch  it  will  give  a  repeat  in  the  reed 
of  six  inches. 

If  two  swivel  shuttles  be  used,  the 
pitch  of  the  swivel  shuttle  will  be 
three  inches,  whereas,  if  four  shuttles 
be  used,  the  pitch  will  be  one  and  one- 
half  inches,  etc.  There  is  a  certain 
limit  below  which  it  is  not  satisfactory 
to  go  into  the  matter  of  shuttles  by 
this  "method.  To  make  the  swivel  pat- 
tern the  various  jacquard  hooks  are 


allover  patterns  could  not  be  pro- 
duced, or  if  they  were  made,  only  in 
a  striped  form,  but  this  does  not  occur 
because  the  mechanism  which  holds 
the  shuttles  can  be  moved  to  the  side 
to  correspond  to  the  pattern  which  is 
being  made,  and  to  allow  space  for 
the  swivel  shuttles  to  be  inserted. 
A  second  kind  of 

SWIVEL  MECHANISM 

might  be  considered  somewhat  simi- 
lar to  the  one  already  described,  but 
it  has  a  number  of  different  features. 
In  this  method  the  swivel  shuttles  are 
smaller  and  there  usually  are  more 
shuttles  in  the  cloth  width.  In  a  good 
many  cases  these  small  shuttles  will 
traverse  about  one-half  an  inch  in  the 
cloth  width,  or  will  make  a  woven  pat- 


Swivel    Dotted   Swiss. 


raised  as  desired,  and  the  mechanism 
holding  the  swivel  shuttles  is  lowered, 
the  small  shuttles  passing  underneath 
a  portion  of  the  warp  threads.  This 
is  accomplished  through  a  rack  and 
gears  upon  the  loom  lay,  the  small 
shuttles  passing  from  one  shuttle 
holder  to  another.  It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  a  certain  portion  of  the 
warp  must  remain  down  to  allow 
space  for  the  small  shuttles  to  be  in- 
serted. When  the  swivel  figure  is  be- 
ing made  the  ordinary  picking  motion 
does  not  operate.  From  this  foregoing 
description  it  might  be  supposed  that 


tern  from  each  thread  about  half  an 
inch  wide,  though  the  combination  and 
manipulation  of  the  various  shuttles 
will  make  large  allover  patterns. 
These  small  shuttles  are  lowered  in 
the  cloth  shed,  and  instead  of  being 
transferred  from  one  shuttle  holder  to 
another  by  rack  and  gears  they  are 
transferred  by  small  levers  which  are 
operated  by  the  loom  mechanism.  In 
this  case  there  may  be  certain  shut- 
tles idle  a  portion  of  the  time  where 
no  figure  is  being  made,  but  this 
causes  no  difficulty.  The  swivel 
mechanism  is  not  moved  in  a  horizon* 


182 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


tal  position  in  this  method,  but  rather 
remains  stationary,  and  the  numerous 
swivel  shuttles  will  produce  the  pat- 
tern wherever  the  warp  threads  are 
raised. 

A  third  method  which  appears  dif- 
ferent than  either  of  those  described 
is  one  wherein  a  small  shuttle  travels 
underneath  the  warp  threads  in  a  cir- 
cular holder.  In  this  method  it  is  only 
possible  to  use  one  color  of  swivel 
thread  at  any  time,  inasmuch  as  there 
can  be  but  one  bank  of  swivel  shut- 
tles, but  there  is  a  certain  advantage 
over  the  first  method  described,  inas- 
much as  it  allows  the  swivel  shuttle 
to  pass  under  a  greater  number  or 
portion  of  warp  threads.  This  is  ex- 
plained by  the  fact  that  less  space  Is 
necessary  than  in  the  first  method  for 
the  swivel  shuttles  to  be  inserted.  As 
the  swivel  motion  is  a  more  expensive 
one  it  may  be  wondered  wherein  any 
advantage  is  secured.  In  the  first 
place,  various  clear-edged  figures  can 
be  made  similar  to  those  produced  on 
the  ordinary  jacquards  and  be  made 
of  heavy  extra  yarn  in  order  to  show 
striking  contrasts.  The  method  of  us- 
ing the  swivel  motion  saves  a  great 
deal  of  yarn,  and  while  this  is  of 
minor  importance  when  compared  to 
the  effects  produced,  nevertheless  it 
is  essential. 

The  swivel  motion  is  also  of  advan- 
tage in  decorating  certain  jacquard 
figures  upon  various  fabrics,  that  is,  it 
may  be  desirable  to  have  a  flower  up- 
on a  certain  woven  pattern  made  of 
colored  yarn  or  of  a  heavier  character 
than  the  ground  fabric,  and  a  swivel 
motion  allows  this  to  be  done.  In  cot- 
ton fabrics  most  of  the  swivel  decora- 
tion is  done  in  one  color,  namely  that 
of  the  ground  cloth,  but  there  are  an 
increasing  number  of  fabrics  which 
Importers  are  showing  to-day,  where 
figures  are  introduced  of  one  or  more 
colors  and  contrasting  decidedly  with 
that  of  the  ground  cloth.  On 
page  179  we  illustrate  one  of 
the  small  figures  oft^^n  used 
with  two  colors.  Tins  is  es- 
pecially true  on  certain  lines  of  crepe 
cloths  now  being  olTered.  There  are 
other  advantages  to  be  obtained,  such 
aa  a  snot  or  flenire  which  will  stand 
up  better  than  by  any  other  method, 
and  bound  in  more  firmly. 


There  are  certain  features  in  con- 
nection with  the  fabric  analyzed  which 
are  worth  mentioning.  In  the  first 
place,  it  is  about  as  simple  a  figure  as 
is  ever  made  on  a  swivel  mechanism, 
being  one  of  simple  detached  spots. 
It  will  be  noted  that  the  spots  are 
quite  large  and  prominent  and  seem 
the  same,  both  on  the  face  and  back 
of  the  fabric.  This  is  made  possible 
through  the  weaving  process.  There 
are  four  picks  from  the  swivel  mech- 
anism to  one  pick  of  ground  cloth, 
when  the  spot  is  being  woven,  in  oth- 
er words,  the  swivel  shuttle  passes 
around  certain  warp  threads  twice  be- 
fore a  ground  pick  is  inserted.  This 
can  be  accomplished  very  easily  and 
is  often  done  for  fabrics  such  as  that 
described.  In  many  other  instances 
the  swivel  shuttle  does  not  pass  en- 
tirely across  the  back,  but  is  brought 
up  and  acts  as  a  stuffer  to  the  portion 
of  the  thread  which  is  seen  on  the 
face.  Were  the  spots  being  made  con- 
tinuously, or  were  the  swivel  pattern 
always  being  made,  there  would  be 
four  times  as  many  picks  of  swivel 
yarn  as  there  would  be  for  the  ground 
cloth,  but  inasmuch  as  the  swivel 
mechanism  is  not  operating  a  portion 
of  the  time,  this  ratio  does  not  occur 
for  the  whole  fabric.  Instead  of  there 
being  240  picks  of  swivel  and  60  picks 
of  ground,  there  are  practically  71 
picks  of  swivel  and  60  picks  of  eround, 
or  a  total  of  131  picks  per  inch  in  the 
cloth  as  it  comes  from  the  loom. 

To  make  the  second  row  of  spots, 
the  mechanism  is  moved  O'er,  the 
spots  inserted  and  then  it  is  returned 
to  its  original  position,  whpre  the  op- 
eration is  repeated.     One  of  the 

INTERESTING  FEATURES 

in  regard  to  the  swivel  work 
is  that  the  cloth  is  woven  face 
down.  This  is  necessary  because  the 
swivel  shuttles  are  placed  above  the 
warp  threads,  and  because  the  loose 
threads,  which  go  from  one  figure  to 
another  as  sp'^t  patterns  are  being 
made,  are  on  the  top  of  the  cloth  when 
it  is  being  woven.  A  cloth  such  as 
that  described  has  to  have  a  shearing 
process  in  which  the  thread  which 
f  OPS  from  onp  fieiirp  to  the  other  la 
cut  off.  It  is  always  a  very  good  pol- 
icy to  have  as  much  ground  cloth  as 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


188 


possible  next  to  the  selvages  in  or- 
der to  make  the  weaving  operation  as 
easy  as  possible. 

Because  the  fabrics  are  of  a  light 
character  it  is  customary  to  use  a 
plain  weave  ground  for  fabrics  such 
as  are  described.  A  woven  ground 
figure  never  appears  at  all  prominent 
on  such  a  light  material,  though  on 
other  constructions  intricate  jacquard 
weaves  are  used,  together  with  the 
swivel  figures.  One  of  the  features 
which  causes  quite  a  little  difficulty 
in  the  production  of  a  fabric  such  as 
that  analyzed  is  that  the  small  swivel 
shuttles  do  not  contain  any  great 
amount  of  yarn,  and  because  of  the 
heavy  character  of  the  spots  the  ma- 
terial is  used  up  rapidly,  causing 
many  changes  of  shuttle  spools  and  a 
corresponding  loss  in  production. 
SIMILAR  CLOTH  GROUNDS. 

Inasmuch  as  these  fabrics  are 
largely  a  foreign  product  it  may  be 
well  to  comment  regarding  the  qual- 
ity. Foreign  fabrics  are  usually  made 
by  somewhat  different  methods  than 
those  produced  in  the  domestic  mar- 
ket, and  it  can  be  stated  positively 
that  in  quite  a  number  of  instances 
the  method  of  production  does  not  re- 
sult in  what  would  be  considered  high 
quality  fabrics  in  the  domestic  mar- 
kets. This  is  especially  true  on  some 
of  the  medium -weight  fabrics  such  as 
the  ground  cloth  of  the  fabric  ana- 
lyzed. The  foreign  method  of  yarn 
making,  wherein  a  relatively  short 
staple  of  cotton  is  used  and  wherein 
the  yarn  is  spun  upon  the  mule,  does 
not  produce  yarn  of  great  strength. 
It  does  make  a  soft,  round  yarn  which 
Is  very  desirable  for  certain  fabrics, 
but  is  not  dpsirable  for  a  fabric  such 
as  that  analyzed.  The  yarn  in  this 
fabric  is  regular,  but  it  is  not  strong. 
We  do  not  believe  there  is  a 
single  mill  in  the  domestic  market 
which,  if  asked  to  produce  a  ground 
cloth  such  as  that  noted  in  the  fabric 
described,  would  not  produce  a  cloth 
which  would  break  twice  as  high  as 
the  foreign  material  and  wear  twice 
as  long. 

This   n^av  sfem   a 

RADICAL  STATEMENT, 
but,  nevertheless,  it  is  true,  and  what 
Is  more,  the  same  conditions  are  noted 


on  a  great  many  more  fabrics  than 
either  foreign  manufacturers  or  do- 
mestic distributors  are  willing  to  ad- 
mit. In  discussing  imported  fabrics 
buyers  never  give  credit  to  do- 
mestic manufacturers  for  any  su- 
periority whatever,  when  there  are  a 
good  many  instances  where  domestic 
fabrics  are  much  superior.  Soft  twist 
and  short  staple  are  of  advantage  for 
certain  fabrics,  but  long  staple,  a  high- 
er standard  of  twist  and  strength  are 
desiraole  for  other  faorics,  of  which 
the  one  presented  is  an  illustration. 
We  do  not  believe  there  is  a  single 
mill  in  the  domestic  market  which  is 
weaving  as  weak  yarn  as  that  in  the 
fabric  analyzed,  and  if  any  attempts 
are  made  to  import  yarn  of  a  similar 
character  and  ^\  eave  it,  there  will  be 
so  many  difficulties  that  domestic 
manufacturers  will  give  up  the  idea  in 
disgust. 

This  does  not  mean  that  foreign 
manufacturers  cannot  ana  do  not 
make  high-class  yarns,  for  this  is  not 
true,  but  when  comparisons  are  being 
made  it  would  t-e  just  as  well  if  other 
important  features  were  considered 
along  with  the  price.  There  would  have 
h^en  fp.wer  fabrics  imported  in  the 
nast  if  huvers  had  treated  domocti'^ 
fabrics  fairly,  but  they  have  not  only 
built  up  many  wrong  impressions  re- 
garding the  quality  of  foreign  fabrics, 
but  also  as  to  their  values. 
Where  such  materials  are  distributed 
to  a  high-class  trade  it  makes  little 
difference,  but  inasmuch  as  ordinary 
consumers  are  buying  increasing 
amounts  of  high-priced  fabrics  there 
is  sure  to  be  a  much  different  idea  re- 
garding the  wearing  quality  and  ac- 
tual value. 

The  fabric  analyzed  was  imported 
and  sold  at  reta.l  at  46  cents  per  yard. 
We  have  given  an  approximate  cost  of 
production  upon  a  domestic  basis.  Of 
course,  this  cost  might  vary  somewhat 
in  a  domestic  plant,  but  it  Is  a  high 
cost  if  anything.  Other  styles  of  pat- 
terns return  a  somewhat  higher  price 
than  that  noted  and  this  shows  that 
there  Is  an  opportunity  for  domestic 
manufacturers  to  introduce  the  mak- 
ing of  such  cloths.  We  have  esti- 
mated the  maker's  selling  price  at  25 
cents  per  yard,  which  would  allow 
quite  a  aigh  rate  of  profit  to  a  domes- 


lU 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tic  producer.  Undoubtedly,  a  manufac-  accurate  results  will  not  be  obtained, 
turer  could  produce  this  clotli  to  sell  Of  greatest  importance  is  the  amount 
as  low  or  lower  than  that  of  the  for-  of  yarn  necessary  to  weave  the  vari- 
eign  manufacturer,  and  what  is  more,  ous  spots.  This  is  quite  large,  inas- 
it  unqvestionably  would  be  of  much  much  as  the  swivel  threads  pass 
higher  quality.  around  the  various  warp  ends  twice 
The  production  of  swivel  patterns  Is  before  a  pick  of  filling  is  inserted, 
a  much  more  staple  business  than  The  take-up  in  weaving  is  quite  a 
many  would  consider  to  be  the  case  little  greater  than  for  similar  spots 
and  it  would  be  possible  for  a  mod-  made  on  a  lappet  motion,  for  it  takes 
erate-sized  plant  to  be  operated  con-  about  ten  inches  of  yarn  to  weave  one 
tinually  on  staple  patterns  such  as  inch  of  fabric.  Instead  of  a  single 
that  illustrated.  The  introduction  of  thread  being  used  for  this  swivel  fig- 
silk  into  cotton  fabrics  and  woven  in  ure,  there  are  three  ends  used  in  each 
cotton  mills  offers  unlimited  oppor-  shuttle,  but  they  are  not  twisted  to- 
tunities  in  various  kinds  of  swivel  gether.  This  allows  a  better  spot  to 
work.  There  is  a  large  opportunity,  be  made  and  does  not  cause  streaks 
because  these  combination  fabrics  in  the  fabric  when  the  swivel  filling 
have  been  produced  much  more  ex-  is  being  inserted.  The  method  of  ob- 
tensively  in  the  domestic  market  than  taining  the  weights  is  as  follows: 
they  have  in  foreign  mills,  in  fact  2.372  ends  ^  (so/i  x  840)  =  .0353.  weight 
there  have  been  quite  a  number  of  of  warp  without  take-up. 
such  cloths  exported  during  the  past  ^„'J.,*^''^""n?  '"  '"n^o'i.V"? •  *  ,       .  u»     , 

.„,„   , rriu  •  c  ^       ^  j.y.        .0353    -H    .96    =    .0368,    total   weight   of   warp 

two   years.      The    prices   for   such   cloth  per    woven    yard. 

are  naturally  high    and    will    remain      ?<;  x  3  =  i08  swivel  ends. 

so     as     long     as     present     methods     of        los" J^'W"'!  l!o8o'Tards^of  swivel  yarn  per 

production    continue,    but    there    is    a  yard  of  cioth. 

growing    demand    for    fabrics    which  'Z\ti^!n.'^^'lll  Zj'e^\l'A^'  ''''^''' 

contain  style,  and  the  swivel  mecha-  60  picks  x  33%"  reed  width  x  36" 

nism  makes  it  possible  to  decorate  a  ^                      "    =     2"^'' 

fabric  more  extensively  than  the  ordi-  vards  of  fining  per  yard  of  cloth. 

nary  jacquard  mechanism.  2,010  -   (95/1   x    840)   =  .0251,  weight  of 

m,    ■'      ^  i.    ■      c      1.  '  J  filling  yarn. 

There  are  certain  features  in  regard      .oses  +  .0161  +  .0251  =  .0780,  total  weight 
to  obtaining  the  weight  of  the  cloth      ,  P^^L^'^^'^-^^^^        ,„„„ 
which  must  be  considered  carefully,  or      '^'^Xy^.  ■''''  =  ''•''    ^"'''    "''    ^""""^ 

PATTERN. 
2  2 

80/1  Am.   combed  warp       —       2,324       —     =      2,372,    total  ends. 

12  12 

80/1  Am.  combed  for  swivel.     3  ends  per  shuttle  not  twisted. 
95/1   Am.   combed   filling.      60   picks  per  inch   ground. 
Average  picks  per  inch  over  all   131. 
35   reed;    33%"  width   In  reed,    31%"   finished   width. 
''4    X   60  ground  count;  74    X    131  over  all  count. 

TARNS. 

Cotton.  Labor,  waste,  etc. 

80/1  Am.   combed;  1  7-16"  sta.;   16  hank  dou.  rov.,              23%c.  28%c.          =     61%c. 

95/1  Am.  combed;   1   7-16"  eta.;   22  hank  dou.  rov.,               23%c.  27%c.          =      51%c. 

COST. 

2.372   ends   80/1   Am.    combed  warp +      4%   take-up   =   .0368    @    51%c.      =  $  .0191 

108   ends  80/1    Am.   combed   warp -|-    90%   take-up   =   .0161   @    51  %c.      =  .0084 

60  picks   95/1   Am.    combed  filling =   .0251    @    51^c.     =  .0123 

Weaving    T .0561 

Expenses     .0735 

$  .1703 

Shearing    .0030 

Bleaching    and    finishing .,  .0100 

$  .1833 
Selling    .0065 

$  .18»8 

Selling  price    (approximate)    25c. 

Domestic  retail   price  46c.   per  yard 

Tarda   per   pound    (grey)    12. 8J. 

86  swivel  shuttlM  rTrtfiirr  i         ,    ;  J 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


185 


TOBACCO  CLOTHS 

One  cotton  fabric  which  has  a  very 
extensive  sale  and  is  considered  a 
staple  line  is  tobacco  cloth.  In  a  gen- 
eral way,  this  material  is  not  used 
regularly  for  dresses,  but  other  uses 
create  a  large  demand  and  keep  a 
good  many  coarse  mills  with  many 
looms  continually  producing  certain 
constructions.  The  cloth  is  a  light 
one,  and  is  particularly  noticeable  be- 
cause of  its  cheapness.  To  a  certain 
extent,  it  is  known  as  cheese- 
cloth to-day,  but  because  of  the  use 
for  other  purposes,  it  has  come  to 
be  known  as  tobacco  cloth  to  manu- 
facturers, and  the  number  of  construc- 
tions produced  varies  quite  extensive- 
ly from  that  noted  a  few  years  aso. 


this  is  not  the  case.  In  warm  climates 
it  is  not  so  necessary  for  ordinary 
houses  to  be  plastered,  anl  a  light 
cloth  is  used  instead,  which  makes  it 
possible  for  this  cloth  to  be  used 
as  wall  paper  in  a  satisfactory 
manner.  A  much  larger  portion  of  the 
product  is  used  for  the  above  purpose 
than  many  believe.  Another  use 
which  is  rapidly  increasing  is  for 

ANTISEPTIC  GAUZE, 

of  which  tobacco  cloth  forms 
the  foundation.  Much  more  care 
is  being  used  in  all  kinds  of  surg- 
ery and  similar  purposes  than  ever  be- 
fore, and  has  made  a  large  production 
of  these  cloths  possible.  During  re- 
cent years  there  has  been  quite  a  large 
distribution  of  open  fabrics  for  printed 
draperies   and   similar   purposes.     All 


'\>V    -' 


jii::-!!" .; 


Tobacco  Cloth. 


The  name  cheesecloth  undoubtedly 
developed  because  the  material  was 
used  tor  covering  cneeses,  ana  me 
change  m  name  nas  occurr^a  on  ac- 
count of  its  greater  use  for  other  pur- 
poses. 

Probably  the  change  in  name  oc- 
curred because  a  large  quantity  of 
such  cloth  is  used  in  the  tobaro  fields, 
where  it  serves  various  purposes  and 
Is  responsible  for  an  improved  prod- 
uct. It  must  not  be  thought,  however, 
that  the  use  in  tobacco  fields  consti- 
tutes    the     entire     distribution,     for 


kinds  of  drapery  fabrics  have  been 
selling  well  for  a  number  of  years, 
and  to  make  it  possible  to  get  out  fab- 
rics at  a  low  price  a  low  constructed 
material  has  been  used  quite  success- 
fully. Certain  of  these  draperies  are 
sold  in  quite  large  volume  in  the  5 
and  10  cent  stores,  and  it  would  not 
be  surprising  if  other  materials  were 
sold  In  a  like  manner  in  the  future. 
Certain  kinds  of  fabrics  which  might 
be  ordinarily  known  as  tobacco  cloths 
form  the  foundation  for  many  of  the 
cheap  printed  drapery  fabrics  recently 


186 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


offered.  There  are  numerous  other 
purposes  for  which  more  or  less  of 
such  material  is  used,  and  altogether 
the  sale  is  quite  an  important  one.  At 
certain  seasons  of  the  year  there  is 
a  large  demand  for  various  kinds 
of  cheap  bunting.  In  many  of  these 
materials  tobacco  cloths  form  the 
foundation  for  the  printed  results. 
What  consumers  want  is  a  large  yard- 
age for  a  small  outlay,  and  tobacco 
cloth  is  about  as  desirable,  if  not  more 
so,  than  any  other  cotton  fabric. 
METHOD  OF  PRODUCTION. 

Tobacco  cloth  represents  what  can 
be  done  in  cloth  production  at  a  very 
low  cost.  In  most  instances  where 
cloth  is  being  made  certain  ideas  as 
to  style,  effect,  or  uses  determine 
largely  what  the  cost  of  making  or  the 
selling  price  is  likely  to  be.  It  is  sel- 
dom tnat  low  quamy  ciotu  is  aesir- 
able,  but  with  tobacco  cloth,  the  main 
features  are  large  quantity  and  low 
selling  price.  Because  of  this  fact  the 
various  machines  in  the  mill  are  op- 
erated to  their  greatest  capacity  with- 
in reason,  and  the  yarns  and  fabrics 
are  not  based  upon  as  high  a  stand- 
ard as  for  most  other  fabrics.  In 
making  the  yarn  as  short  a  cotton  sta- 
ple is  used  as  is  possible,  and  still  ob- 
tain a  good  production.  There  is  a 
certain  point  beyond  which  a  manu- 
facturer cannot  go  and  still  get  the 
best  results,  and  this  is  why  yarns  of 
even  lower  quality  or  shorter  cotton 
are  not  sometimes  used.  It  does  not 
pay  to  make  yarns  of  so  low  quality 
that  the  weaving  expense  increases 
radically,  because  the  cost  of  material 
In  such  cloth  is  a  relatively  small  one. 

In  a  good  many  instances,  the  yarns 
are  made  from  single  roving,  though 
the  product  has  to  be  somewhat  better 
when  automatic  weaving  machin- 
ery is  being  used.  The  produc- 
tion m  yards  per  loom  Is  very  larere, 
uiamiy  oecause  tne  cloth  construction 
Is  very  low.  Inasmuch  as  plain  weave 
will  return  the  firmest  fabric  for  any 
given  construction,  it  can  be  raid  that 
plain  weave  is  Invariably  used  unon 
tobacco  cloths.  Most  of  such  fabric 
constructions  slip  quite  badly,  and  this 


makes  them  impossible  of  use  for 
dress  fabrics,  even  though 

ATTRACTIVE   PATTERNS 

might  be  printed  upon  them.  Pos- 
sibly in  the  majority  of  tobaico 
cloth  constructions,  the  ordinary  yarns 
which  are  used  in  print  cloth  con- 
structions are  noted,  that  is,  approxi- 
mately 28-1  to  30-1  warp,  and  from 
36-1  to  40-1  filling.  For  the  coarser 
constructions  or  lower  count  fabrics, 
coarser  yarn  sizes  are  used,  as  can 
be  observed  from  the  weights  of  the 
various  fabrics.  Some  of  the  con- 
structions which  are  sold  regularly 
are  as  follows,  though  they  do  not  rep- 
resent all  of  the  fabrics  which  are 
sold.  In  a  general  way  they  represent 
about  the  highest  and  lowest  construc- 
tions which  are  regularly  sold.  For 
the  lower  count  fabrics  the  cloth 
weight  will  vary  with  different  mak- 
ers. 

Yards 


pdf 

pound 

cents 

48/44 

36  in. 

7.75 

3% 

48/40 

36  in. 

8.10 

3% 

44/40 

36  in. 

8.50 

3% 

40/40 

36  in. 

9.20 

3% 

44/36 

36  in. 

9.20 

3 

40/36 

36  in. 

9.65 

2  15-16 

40/32 

36  in. 

10.20 

2% 

36/32 

36  in. 

10..50 

2% 

36/32 

36  in. 

11.20 

2  11-16 

32/28 

36  in. 

12.00 

2  7-16 

32/28 

36  in. 

13.00 

2% 

32/24 

36  in. 

13.50 

2  5-16 

28/24 

36  in. 

2  1-16 

26/22 

36  in. 

1  15-16 

24/20 

36  in. 

1  13-16 

22/18 

36  in. 

1  11-16 

20/16 

36  in. 

1% 

20/14 

36  in. 

1  7-16 

20/12 

36  in. 

1% 

These  fabrics  are  all  In  the  grey  state, 
and  the  selling  prices  represent  the 
relative  difference  between  the  vari- 
ous constructions  with  cotton  selling 
from  13  to  13 1/^  cents  per  pound.  It 
will  be  noted  that  the  constructions 
are  sometimes  similar,  but  that  the 
weights  of  the  cloths  will  differ,  due 
to  the  use  of  different  sizes  of  yarn. 
A  good  many  mills  figure  their  cloth 
prices  upon  a  poundage  basis,  and  rel- 
atively, the  selling  prices  per  yard  can 
be  arrived  at  upon  this  basis. 

As  previously  stated,  the  weaving 
of  the  cloth  in  a  successful  manner 
depends  a  goo^  deal  upon  the  yam  or- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


U7 


ganization  of  the  plant.  If  very  poor 
yarns  are  made  it  will  be  absolutely 
impossible  to  run  the  looms  at  the 
highest  rate  of  speed  at  which  they 
are  capable  of  being  operated,  whereas 
if  a  longer  cotton  and  better  yarn  be 
made,  it  will  be  possible  to  run  the 
looms  at  a  higher  speed  or  to  use  au- 
tomatic weaving  machinery.  Un- 
doubtedly, automatic  looms  are  of  dis- 
tinct advantage  where  pl^in  cloth  is 
to  be  made,  and  where  quantity  pro- 
duction is  of  so  great  importance.  A 
fact  which  a  good  many  manufactur- 
ers overlook  is  that  there  is  a  certain 
balance  which  is  best  for  each  plant. 
In  a  fabric  such  as  is  being  described 
it  would  be  a  foolish  policy  to  use  a 
long  staple  of  cotton  to  make  espe- 
cially good  yarn,  and  to  weave  the 
cloth  on  an  ordinary  loom  at  a  low  or 
relatively  low  speed.  Of  course,  such 
a  method  of  production  would  result 
in  a  better  looking  fabric,  but  it  is 
absolutely  certain  that  a  cloth  maker 
would  not  obtain  a  price  which  would 
return  him  a  satisfactory  dividend. 
There  are  very  few  fabrics  of  this 
character  made  in  which  cotton  over 
1 1-16  inches  in  length  is  used,  and  it 
is  probable  that  a  large  majority  of 
these  cloths  contain  cotton  which  is 
one  inch  or  less  in  length,  according 
to  the  test  standards  of  cotton  length. 
There  have  been  some  manufacturers 
in  the  past  who 

ADVOCATED  AUTOMATIC  LOOMS 

for  light  cloths  and  a  very  high 
speed,  or  one  which  approached  that 
obtainable  on  ordinary  looms. 
Through  experience  this  has  been 
found  to  be  a  mistaken  policy,  and 
lower  loom  speeds  are  now  generally 
adopted,  together  with  cotton  which 
seems  best  at  the  lower  or  reasonable 
speeds. 

The  fabric  which  we  have 
analyzed  is  probably  one  of  the 
best  tobacco  constructions  made,  in- 
asmuch as  it  counts  48  x  44,  and  is 
about  as  heavy  as  any  fabric  regularly 
sold  fo"  such  purposes.  The  size  of 
reed  which  is  used  in  making  any  con- 
struction will  vary  somewhat,  depend- 
ing upon  the  twist  in  the  yarn,  the 
length  of  cotton  which  has  been  used 
and  whether  or  not  the  cloth  is  woven 
upon  an  automatic  loom.    If  the  cloth 


shrinks  a  good  deal  in  the  weaving  op- 
eration a  coarser  reed  will  be  neces- 
sary, while  if  there  is  vcry  little 
shrinkage  from  reed  to  c'oth  width, 
then  a  somewhat  finer  reed  will 
be  necessary.  This  difference  in  reed 
size  or  dents  per  inch  will  not  amount 
to  very  much  when  the  cloth  count  is 
low,  but  where  there  are  more  threads 
per  inch,  the  shrinkage  in  weaving 
width  becomes  of  greater  importan  e. 
We  have  seen  staple  fabrics  changed 
from  ordinary  to  automatic  looms,  and 
in  a  large  number  of  instances  new 
reeds  had  to  be  obtained,  because  the 
shrinkage  was  not  identical. 

PRICES   AND   PROFITS. 

A  few  facts  regarding  the  prices 
and  profits  secured  upon  tobacco 
cloths  may  be  of  interest.  In  the  first 
place,  to  one  not  conversant  with 
manufacturing,  the  selling  price  of 
these  cloths  would  seem  so  low  that 
it  would  not  return  any  profit  what- 
ever to  the  maker.  The  reason  why 
the  price  is  so  low  is  because  only  a 
small  amount  of  material  per  yard  is 
used  and  because  the  production  is  so 
great  that  the  cost  of  putting  the 
yarns  together  is  relatively  a  small 
amount  per  yard.  Take  the  cloth 
which  We  have  analyzed  as  an  illus- 
tration. The  mill  cost  is  three  and 
four-tenths  cents  per  yard.  The  mill's 
selling  price  to-day  is  three  and  five- 
eighths  cents  per  yard.  This  allows  a 
profit  per  yard  of  somewhat  less  than 
one-quarter  of  a  cent,  or  .225  cents 
per  yard.  On  most  fancy  fabrics  this 
small  profit  would  not  return  a  satis- 
factory dividend,  and  few  manufactur- 
ers would  feel  like  operating  at  such 
a  small  profit.  Due  to  the  large  num- 
ber of  yards  produced  per  loom,  this 
small  profit  per  yard  appears  much 
more  satisfactory  when  considered 
upon  a  production  basis,  and  while  the 
prices  are  not  especially  satisfactory 
to-day,  the  small  amount  named  will 
return  per  year  a  profit  of  about  |36 
per  loom. 

Considering  the  cost  of  building 
a  plant  to  produce  cloth  of  this 
character  the  rate  of  profit  upon 
the  investment  would  be  about  5%  per 
cent.  Any  concern  which  has  consid- 
ered depreciation  in  the  past,  and 
which  has  a    low    capitalization    per 


18S 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


spindle  or  per  loom,  would  necessarily 
show  somewhat  larger  earnings.  All 
of  the  estimates  of  cost  made  are  upon 
an  ordinary  loom  basis  and  wherever 
automatic  machinery  is  used  the  cost 
would  be  lower  and  the  rate  of  profit 
somewhat  higher.  The  total  prod- 
act  of  mills  making  tobacco  cloth 
is  large  in  yardage,  but  relatively 
small  in  value  when  compared  with 
practically  all  c  .:.er  woven  materials. 

Inasmuch  as  tobacco  cloth  is  used 
for  different  purposes,  there  is  quite  a 
variation  in  the  method  of  finishing, 
though,  naturally,  results  do  not  vary 
as  widely  as  they  do  on  some  of  the 
more  expensive  materials.  A  large 
amount  of  this  cloth  is  used  in  the  grey 
state,  because  low  price  is  the  item  of 
great  importance,  and  because  the 
cloth  in  the  grey  state  answers  the  pur- 
pose just  as  well,  and  probably  better, 
than  if  it  were  finished.  When  it  is 
used  for  covering  cheeses  it  naturally 
Is  bleachf  d  and  whenever  the  cloth  is 
sold  in  solid  colors  it  is  piece-dyed. 
When  the  material  is  used  for  bunt- 
ing, -t  is  £,cmetimes  piece-dyed,  and 
in  other  instances  printed,  depending 
upon  the  results  which  are  desired. 
When  the  material  is  to  be  used  for 
antiseptic  gauze  it  naturally  has  to  be 
treated  more  carefully  and,  in  addition 
to  the  bleaching  process,  is  subjected 
to  further  manipulation,  which  causes 
it  to  be  of  an  antiseptic  character. 
When  the  fabric  is  used  for  draperies 
it  is  usually  bleached,  and  theu  print- 
ed with  the  pattern  and  colors  which 
happen  to  be  in  demand  at  that  par- 
ticular season.  As  a  general  thing, 
the  cloth  sells  for  less  than  10  cents 
per  yard  in  the  finished  state,  some  of 
it  being  much  lower  than  the  price 
named.    There  are 

OTHER  INSTANCES 

where  certain  of  the  low  constructed 
tobacco  cloths  are  used  for  particular 
purposes  when  the  material  is  filled 
quite     extensively,     the     substances 


used  varying  quite  a  little  A 
large  percentage  of  these  light-weight 
tobacco  cloths  are  sold  in  the  grey 
state  at  36  inches  wide,  and  they  are 
also  finished  t  approximately  this 
same  width,  inasmuch  as  they  are 
not  usually  allowed  to  shrink  very 
much  when  they  are  being  finished. 
The  same  conditions  are  noted  in 
finishing  as  for  other  kinds  of  cotton 
cloth,  and  the  method  by  which  they 
are  finished  will  affect  the  width  of 
the  cloth  when  it  is  ready  for  sale. 
Naturally,  the  finisher  tries  to  have 
the  fabric  look  as  well  as  possible,  and 
works  the  cloth  in  order  to  make  the 
various  threads  and  picks  slip  into 
their  proper  places,  but  due  to  the  low 
construction  of  most  of  these  fabrics, 
the  threads  do  not  remain  in  their  po- 
sitions after  the  material  has  been 
used.  This  is  not  especially  objection- 
able for  most  purposes  where  the  cloth 
is  largely  sold.  There  is  nothing  of 
particular  interest  in  the  method  by 
which  the  yarn  weights  are  obtaiued, 
though  one  notable  item  is  ob- 
served in  the  amount  of  size  which 
remains  in  the  warp  yarn  after  the 
weaving  operation  is  completed.  Some 
manufacturers  make  their  warp  yarn 
slightly  finer  than  they  figure  in  order 
to  take  care  of  the  size  in  the  yarn, 
while  ethers  add  a  certain  percentage 
of  weight  to  the  yarn  to  bring  the  fig- 
ured cloth  weight  what  it  actually  is. 
Unless  some  allowance  is  made  for 
this  feature  the  actual  weight  of  the 
cloth  will  invariably  be  heavier  than 
the  figured  weight  will  indicate.  The 
weights  are  obtained  as  follows: 

1.T4S   ends   h-    (30/1    X    840)    =   .0694.    weigrht 

of   warp  yarn   without   take-up. 
5<T-    take-up    In    weaving. 
.0694    -f-    .95    =    .0731.    total    weight    of   warp 

varn   per   woven   vard. 
44'plck8  X  3S'^'  reed  width  X  36" 

— =       1.694 

36" 

vards   of   fllllng   per   yard    of   cloth. 
1.694   -4-    (36 '1    X    S40)    =    .0360,    total   weight 

of   filling  oer  woven   yard. 
.OTSl    +  .560  =  .1291.  total  weight  per  yard. 
1.0000    -*-    .1291     =»     7.75     yards     per     pound 

(rrey). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


189 


PATTERN. 
3  2 

30/1   Am.   carded  warp       —     1,716       —     -=     1,748,   total   ends. 

8  8 

86/1  Am.  carded  filling.     44   picks  per  inch. 
22 V4  reed;  38 Vi"  reed  widtli,  36"  wide  grey. 
48    X    44    grey   count. 

TARNS. 

Cotton.  Labor,  waste,  etc. 

80/1  Am.  carded;   1"  staple;  3.50  hank  .single  rev.,         13%c.  BV^c.  =      20%c. 

36/1  Am.  carded;   1"  staple;    4.75   hank  single  rov.,         13%c.  iVtC.  =      20c. 

COST. 

1,748  ends  30/1  Am.  carded  warp   +   5%   tal<e-up   =   .0731    @    20i4c =  $  .0148 

44   picks  36/1    Am.    carded   filling                                       =   .0560    (W    20c =  .0112 

Weaving     .0035 

Expenses     .0041 

$  .0336 
Selling    (grey)     .0004 

Mill    cost    (net) $  .0340 

Mill   selling   price   to-day $  .03625 

Mill   profit   per  yard .00225 

Mill  profit  per  year,  per  loom,  about  $36. 

Kate   of  profit   upon   investment,   about   5%%. 

Yards  per   pound,    7.75    (grey). 

Plain  weave. 


JACQUARD  FILLING 
REVERSIBLE 

Without  doubt,  one  of  the  best  sell- 
ing and  most  important  lines  of  all 
cotton  cloth  which  might  be  consid- 
ered in  a  staple  class  is  that  which 
is  ordinarily  known  as  cotton  blanket 
cloth  or  sometimes  from  a  mill  stand- 
point as  a  filling  reversible.  The  man- 
ufacturers who  produce  these  materi- 
als have  been  especially  well  sold  for 
a  number  of  years  past,  and  there  is 
every  prospect  that  the  demand  will 
continually  increase.  During  ,  recent' 
years,  quite  a  large  number  of  these 
fabrics  have  been  made  on  jacquard 
looms  and  their  uses  are  quite  varied, 
though  naturally  the  largest  distri 
bution  is  noted  for  blankets  for  vari- 
ous purposes.     They  are  also 

USED  FOR  BATH   ROBES 

in  place  of  the  more  expensive  wool 
materials  and  many  other  purposes 
where  a  heavy,  soft  fabric  is  desirable. 
The  colors  which  are  used  do  not 
change  radically  from  year  to  year, 
this  being  of  advantage  in  producing 
the  cloth.  In  some  instances,  various 
colors  of  cotton  fibre  are  used  in 
order  to  make  a  different  shade  of 
yarn,  and  the  result  seems  to  be  en- 
tirely satisfactory  for  the  fabric  con- 


sidered. The  pattern  analyzed  has 
been  produced  in  this  manner,  in- 
asmuch as  black  and  white  cotton 
have  been  mixed  to  give  a  sort  of 
grey  effect  to  one  surface  of  the  wo- 
ven material.  The  present  season 
these  cotton  blankets  were  sold  up 
very  early,  and  if  reports  from  dis- 
tributors be  believed,  there  is  a  much 
larger  demand  than  there  is  supply. 
Quite  a  number  of  these   fabrics  are 

MADE  WITH  BORDERS 
at  either  end,  this  giving  a  finished 
appearance,  although  it  does  increase 
the  number  of  cards  necessary  to  pro- 
duce the  design.  The  ends  of  the 
blanket  are  cut  and  then  bound  with 
a  buttonhole  stitch  to  keep  the  end 
of  the  cloth  from  unraveling.  Many 
blankets  for  children's  beds  are  re- 
tailed at  75  cents  each,  this  price 
showing  a  somewhat  larger  profit  per 
yard  than  when  yarded  goods  are  dis- 
tributed. 

The  patterns  which  are  used  on 
fancy  cloths  of  the  character  described 
are  not  especially  intricate,  because 
the  cloth  is  not  of  a  very  high  count, 
and  only  general  effects  are  possible. 
Any  weave  where  the  threads  change 
a  great  deal  would  not  show  prom- 
inently enough  to  be  of  great  value, 
because  such  changes  would  not  ap- 
pear when  the  cloth  was  napped.  The 
figures  are  mostly  large  ones,  when, 
compared  with  those  applied  to  most 


ido 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  the  ordinary  cloths,  the  effects  be- 
ing somewhat  similar  to  the  large  bro- 
caded ones  ordinarily  made  entirely 
from  silk,  though,  because  of  the  cloth 
construction,  the  result  is  entirely 
different  and  not  nearly  so  fine  when 
the  figure  details  are  considered. 
Many  of  the  children's  bed  blankets 
in  recent  years  have  been  orna- 
mented 

WITH  FIGURES  OF  ANIMALS, 
such  as  kittens,  ducks,  dogs  and  oth- 
ers of  a  similar  nature  which  are  well 
known  to  children.  These  styles  have 
had  a  very  large  sale,  and  undoubtedly 
will  be  continually  in  demand.  Many 
consider  that  the  fabric  is  a  double 
one,  because  one  side  of  the  cloth  ap- 
pears to  be  the  reverse  of  the  other, 
so   far   as   the  color  and   pattern   are 


in  ordinary  fabrics.  Is  that  the  weave, 
although  it  gives  the  same  results, 
changes   somewhat 

ON  EVERY  FOUR  PICKS, 
and  the  threads  which  operate  on  the 
first  four  picks  do  not  work  on  the 
second  four  picks,  that  is,  relatively 
speaking.  The  weave  which  we  illus- 
trate shows  this  quite  clearly.  Notice 
that  threads  one  and  two  in  the  first 
two  picks  operate  in  a  twill  manner, 
while  threads  three  and  four  do  not 
operate  on  the  first  two  picks.  On 
picks  five  and  six,  threads  one  and 
two  do  not  operate,  while  threads 
three  and  four  operate  somewhat  sim- 
ilar to  what  threads  one  and  two  do 
on  the  lirst  two  picks.  It  may  be 
wondered  why  this  method  is  adopt- 
ed.   For  one  thing,  it  binds  the  cloth 


Jacquard    Filling    Reversible   Fabric. 


concerned.  This  is  not  the  case,  in- 
asmuch as  only  one  warp  is  used  with 
two  fillings.  The  method  in  which  the 
weave  is  constructed  is  shown  by  the 
illustration,  of  which  we  are  giving  a 
number  of  repeats.  It  will  be  noted 
that  two  picks  weave  on  the  face  and 
the  succeeding  two  picks  weave  on 
the  back  of  the  cloth,  and  where  the 
figure  is  formed  the  ordinary  position 
of  the  various  yarns  is  reversed.  One 
point  of  importance  which  is  worth 
mentioning,  and  which  often  is  not 
considered  to  a  great  enough  extent 


firmly  together  and  makes  it  much 
stronger  when  it  has  been  napped. 
For  another  thing,  it  causes  the  same 
number  of  changes  in  weave  upon 
each  warp  thread,  a  fact  which  is  of 
great  importance  in  good  weaving  and 
which  makes  but  a  single  warp  neces- 
sary. With  any  radically  different 
weave  it  would  be  necessary  to  use 
more  than  a  single  warp  beam,  and 
when  this  occurs,  costs  of  making  in- 
crease along  with  weaving  difllcul- 
ties.  Because  there  are  so  few  picks 
per  inch,  namely  only  twenty-seven. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


19J 


on  the  face  and  also  on  the  back  of 
the  cloth,  it  is  possible  to  distinguish 
the  picks  of  filling  in  the  material. 
This  can  be  noted  only  on  the  figure 
and  not  on  the  ground  cloth,  at  least 
It  cannot  be  noted  on  the  side  of  the 
fabric  where  the  darkest  color  Is 
used,  and  it  is  caused  by  the  reversal 
of  the  two  fillings  to  form  the  figure. 

THIS  REVERSAL  OF  FILLINGS 

separates  the  yarn  and  makes  a  cer- 
tain amount  of  streakiness  which  can- 
not be  entirely  avoided.  Not  all  fab 
ties  of  the  character  described  are 
produced  on  a  jacquard  loom,  for 
many  are  made  on  dobby  looms.  The 
ground  weave,  as  will  be  seen  from 
the  weave  illustrations,  necessitates 
the  use  of  only  four  harnesses,  with 
two  extra  for  selvages,  which  makes 
it  possible  to  use  quite  a  good  many 
other  harnesses  in  the  production  of 
dobby  figures,  although,  of  course,  the 
variety  of  patterns  produced  in  this 
manner  is  limited. 

INTERESTING    DETAILS. 

There  are  a  large  majority  of  man- 
ufacturers, and  probably  nearly  every 
distributor  and  consumer,  who  do  not 
realize  some  of  the  methods  which 
manufacturers  of  certain  cloths  adopt 
in  order  to  produce  materials  at  a 
lower  cost.  Certain  manufacturers  of 
staple  lines  use  cotton  which  Is 
bleached  and  dyed  before  it  Is  han- 
dled, and  in  this  way  obtain  quite  a 
radical  reduction  In  the  cost  of  the 
yam.  Other  makers  use  yarns  which 
are  dyed  fast  In  stripes  and  checks, 
and  grey  yarn  in  the  body  or  tne 
cloth  and  thpn  piece-bleach  this 
material,  thus  obtaining  a  lower  cost. 
There  are  undoubtedly  shirting  fab- 
rics selling  in  the  market  which  are 
sold  by  one  class  of  mills  at  least  5 
cents  per  yard  lower  than  can  be  ob- 
tained by  another  class  of  mills.  Take 
this  cloth  which  we  are  considering. 
There  are  certain  of  such  fabrics 
manufactured  in  which  the  warp  Is 
made  of  unbleached  or  only  half- 
bleached  cotton,  while  the  filling:  Is 
made  of  ordinary  bleached  and  dyed 
yarns.  The  reason  this  can  be  done 
Is  because  the  filling  Is  radically 
heavier  than  the  warp,  and  when  the 


cloth  is  napped,  the  warp  yarn  is  en- 
tirely covered.    This  results  in  a 

LOWER    COST    OF   PRODUCTION, 

and  would  be  overlooked  by  a  good 
many  in  planning  economy.  These 
napped  fabrics  lose  a  large  amount  of 
weight,  relatively,  when  they  are  fin- 
ished. This  is  because  the  filling 
forms  such  a  large  proportion  of  the 
cloth  weight  and  the  napping  process 
affects  the  heavy  filling  yarn.  Ordi- 
nary napped  fabrics  may  sometimes 
be  napped  just  as  hard  or  harder  than 
certain  of  the  blanket  cloths  consid- 
ered, but  there  is  not  so  great  a  dif- 
ference in  the  total  warp  and  filling 
weight,  and  therefore  a  smaller  total 
weight  lost.  A  feature  of  importance 
is  that  both  sides  of  the  fabric  are 
napped.  This  does  not  occur  on  a 
good  many  lines  of  ordinary  fabrics, 
and  while  it  increases  somewhat  the 
cost  of  finishing,  it  is  made  possible 
by  the  cloth  construction.  Practically 
all  of  these  fabrics  are  made  with  a 
comparatively  small  number  of 
threads  and  picks  per  inch,  this  be- 
ing necessary  Because  tne  yarns  are 
quite  heavy  and  the  weave  does  not 
permit  the  introduction  of  any  large 
amount  of  yarn.  Of  course,  there  are 
nearly  twice  as  many  picks  in  the 
cloth  as  would  otherwise  be  possible 

BECAUSE   OF   THE   WEAVE   USED, 

but  even  this  does  not  make  the  con- 
struction high  in  comparison  with 
many  other  cotton  fabrics.  The  waste 
which  is  taken  out  in  certain  proc- 
esses of  yarn  making  Is  often  re- 
worked into  tabrics  such  as  are  de- 
scribed. Sometimes  China  cotton  is 
used  in  miking  filling  yarn  for  such 
materials,  inasmuch  as  this  cotton  has 
a  certain  amount  of  harshness  which 
is  desirable  in  making  the  fabric  feel 
more  like  wool.  Sometimes  the  filling 
yarn  is  made  on  a  mule  frame,  while 
the  warp  yarn  is  spun  on  a  ring  frame, 
though  this  is  not  always  the  case. 
The  short  staple  can  be  handled  more 
satisfactorily  on  the  mule,  and  the 
fact  that  there  is  little  tension  when 
spinning  allows  a  low  standard  of 
twist  to  be  used,  giving  a  softer  yarr 
and  a  more  delicate  and  desirable  fab 
rlc.   In  a  good  many  heavy  fabrics  ot 


192 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


this  character  a  number  of  heavy  ply 
threads  are  used  on  the  outside  of  the 
selvages,  in  order  to  make  weaving 
more  satisfactory  with  the  heavy  fill- 
ing. The  pull  of  the  filling  yarn  is  so 
great  that  it  is  likely  to  cause  sel- 
vage yarn  to  break  unless  it  is  quite 
strong.  Naturally,  a  box  loom  is  nec- 
essary in  order  to  place  in  the  fabric 
the  fillings  of  different  colors.  In  the 
large  majority  of  instances  two  picks 
of  each  color  of  yarn  are  used  in  sue 
cession. 

PROFITS. 

During  the  present  season  the  prof- 
its secured  from  the  making  of  cloth 
such  as  is  described  have  been 
brought  to  attention  about  as  prom- 
inently as  for  any  other  cotton  fabric. 
This  is  because  the  producing  capac 
ity  has  not  been  increasing  as  rapidly 
as  the  demand.  The  profits  are  also 
quite  large,  because  the  production  of 
the  looms  is  large,  due  to  the  com- 
paratively small  number  of  picks  per 
inch.  It  is  relatively  one  of  the  best 
fabrics  from  a  mill  standpoint  in  the 
domestic  market.  One  of  the  mill  men 
who  already  makes  fabrics  of  this 
character  was  overheard  to  say  a 
short  time  ago  that  if  he  were  to  build 
a  new  mill  to  produce  any  kind  of 
cotton  fabrics,  a  plant  to  make 
blanket  cloths  would  be  the  kind  of  a 
mill  he  would  build.  A  good  many 
manufacturers  of  ordinary  fancy 
cloths  plan  to  obtain  a  profit  per  yard 
which  will  allow  them  to  average 
about  $2  a  loom  per  week.  This  re- 
sults in  about  $100  a  loom  per  year, 
but  it  is  very  likely  that  comparative- 
ly few  succeed  in  obtaining  profits 
which  show  anything  like  the  amount 
named.  These  cotton  blanket  cloths 
often  show  a  rate  of  profit  quite  a 
little 

IN  EXCESS  OF  $3 

a  loom  per  week,  and  there  is  not 
nearly  so  much  difl!iculty  in  producing 
the  cloth  as  there  is  in  producing  most 
lines  of  fancy  iraterials.  Tlere  is  one 
advantage  which  a  great  many  man- 
uraciurers  overlook  but  which  is  of 
great  importance  in  obtaining  profits 
and  It  is  the  few  changes  which  are 
necessary  when  fabrics  of  this  char- 


acter  are   being   made.   An    ordinary 

fancy  mill  is  likely  to  make  changes 
in  fabrics  at  the  end  of  every  beam  or 
in  a  comparatively  short  time,  and  the 
quantities  of  yarn  of  a  certain  size  are 
relatively  small,  while  in  a  mill  mak- 
ing a  staple  line  the  yarn  sizes  for 
warp  and  filling  do  not  change,  neither 
does  the  cloth  construction  change  to 
any  great  extent,  the  only  difference 
being  noted  in  the  designs  applied  to 
the  cloth  and  the  colors  or  combina- 
tions of  color  which  arc  made.  De- 
signing is  a  much  more  simple  process 
when  the  differpnt  cloth  constructions 
do  not  vary  widely  and  the  operatives 
are  more  familiar  with  the  various 
processes  and  difficulties  which  exist. 

IN   A   FANCY   CLOTH   MILL 

where  constructions  and  yarns  are  al- 
ways changing,  diflJculties  are  contin- 
ually arising,  and  often  there  is  no 
basis  upon  which  to  consider  the  va- 
rious matters,  inas  ruch  as  the  problem 
Is  an  entirely  new  one.  When  staple 
lines  are  being  made  it  is  much  more 
possible  to  obtain  an  accurate  cost  for 
the  cloth  making,  inasmuch  as  it  is  a 
more  easy  matter  to  apply  the  various 
expense  items  exactly  where  they  be- 
long. This  is  absolutely  impossible 
to  accomplish  on  miny  fancy  construc- 
tions at  least  without  an  expenditure 
of  more  money  than  the  saving  is 
worth.  One  of  the  features  which  is  of 
importance  in  cloth  distribution  is  that 
prices  on  these  lines  may  be  varied 
accordine;  to  the  season  wititout  so 
much  difficulty  occurring  as  there  does 
on  certain  of  the  larger  selling  lines. 
A  half  cent  advance  on  certain  ging- 
hams will  cause  a  great  deal  of  dis- 
cussion among  purchasers,  while  it 
does  not  occur  so  extensively  on  fab- 
rics such  as  are  described.  This  mate- 
rial is  being  distributed  at  a  price 
which  is  not  ordinarily  noted.  Most 
staple  lines  are  made  to  sell  at  a  cer- 
tain set  price  per  yard,  but  this  mate- 
rial is  evidently  constructed  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner  to  cloths  w^hich  are  used 
in  blankets  and  is  sold  at  the  best 
price  obt-inable.  and  siicreedins:  dis- 
tributors let  it  fall  into  the  price  at 
which  they  can  sell  it.  Thus,  fabrics 
somewhat  similar  to  this  one  are  sell- 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


193 


ing  at  27  cents,  29  cents  and  In  some 
cases 

AS  HIGH  AS  35  CENTS 
per  j-ard.  They  may  or  may 
rot  le  o:"  identical  construc- 
tion, but  so  far  as  the  con- 
sii'i  er  is  concerned,  the  appearance 
is  Just  as  desirable  at  the  lower  price 
as  it  is  at  the  higher  one.  It  may  be 


Weave   Plan. 

possible  that  the  fabrics  are  the  same 
and  the  different  prices  noted  be- 
cause of  larger  purchases  or  because 
of  different  ideas  as  to  what  a  sat- 
isfactory profit  should  be.  The  value 


of  the  yarns  which  are  used  in  mak- 
ing blanket  fabrics  forms  by  far  the 
largest  portion  of  the  total  cost.  The 
weaving  price  per  yard  is  low,  due  to 
the  small  number  of  picks  per  inch, 
and  the  various  expenses  per  yard 
are  also  low  due  to  the  same  feature. 
Inasmuch  as  the  yarns  are  dyed  when 
they  reach  the  loom  there  is  very  little 
finishing  necessary,  except  the  nap- 
ping process. 

The  method  of  finding  the  weights 
of  the  yarn  and  thj  weight  of 
the  cloth  is  rather  simple,  but  it 
must  be  done  in  a  careful  manner  or 
else  any  estimate  regarding  cloth  costs 
will  not  be  correct.  The  fact  that  the 
cloth  has  lost  quite  a  little  weight  in 
the  napping  process  and  that  the  yams 
are  actually  finer  than  when  they  were 
spun  causes  a  much  lighter  material 
with  a  lower  cost  for  the  materials 
used  than  when  the  cloth  comes  from 
the  loom.  The  weights  of  the  yarn  are 
obtained  as  follows: 

1,516    ends    h-    (20/1    X    840)    =    .0902.    warp 

weight    without    take-up. 
9%    take-up   in    weaving. 
.0902    -f-    .91    =    .0991,    total    weight    of  warp 

per   woven   vard    as   it  comes   from    loom. 
54  picks  X  30"  width  in  reed  X  36" 

=     1,620 

36" 

yards  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
1,620    H-    (5/1    X    840)    =    .3857,    total    weight 

of    filling    per    woven    yard    as    It    comes 

from    loom. 
.0991     +    .3857     =     .4848,     total     weight    per 

vard    from    loom. 
l.dOOO   -i-  .4848   =   2.06  yards  per  pound  from 

loom. 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

20/1   Am.   carded  warp     —     1,484     —     =   1,516,  total  ends. 

8  8 

6/1   Am.  carded   filling;   54   picks  per  Inch. 
25  reed,   30"   width   In  reed.    27%"  finished  width. 
54    X    54   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton. 

20/1  Am.  carded;     1"  staple;   4%   hank  dou.  rov.,  13%c. 

5/1   Am.  carded;    %"  staple;    .75  hank  single  rov.,  13»4c. 

COST. 

1,516  ends  20/1   Am.  carded  warp   4    9%  take-up   

54   picks   5/1    .\m.    carded    filling 

Weaving     

Expenses     


Labor,  waste, 

dyeing,  etc. 

7%c. 

loy^c. 


.0991    @    2114c. 
.3857    @    23%c. 


Selling 


Selling   price    to   jobber    (about) . .  .  . 

Selling    price    to    retailer    (about)... 

Selling   price    to   consumer    (about). 
Jacquard  weave. 

Yards  per  pound  before  napping  2.06. 
Yards  per  pound  finished  2.40. 


21>^c. 
23%c. 


i  .0211 
.0907 
.0163 
.0178 

$  .1459 
.0058 

S  .1517 

$  .1700 
.2000 
.2900 


194 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


MERCERIZED  ETAMINE 

Etamines  have  been  used  at  various 
times  in  the  past  in  quite  large  quan- 
tities, though  tlie  amount  vi^laich  can 
be  sold  depends  a  good  deal  upon  the 
style  of  cloth  selling.  They  are  used 
for  almost  any  purpose  where  a  rather 
heavy  and  somewhat  open  material  is 
desirable,  and  when  they  are  in  de- 
mand very  satisfactory  profits  and  an 
extraordinary  distribution  takes  place. 
For  a  number  of  years  past  there  has 
been  very  little  interest  in  such  fab- 
rics, but  it  would  not  be  surprising  if  a 
greater  quantity  of  these  cloths  would 
be  soon  desirable  and  another  run 
upon  them  take  place.  Possibly  the 
only  reason  why  there  has  not  been  a 
demand  for  these  cloths  for  some 
years  has  been  because  many  voiles 
are  somewhat  similar,  and  many  con- 
sumers would  use  them  for  about  the 
same  purposes,  and,  therefore,  has 
made  any  great  production  compara- 
tively impossible. 

Due  to  the  great  change  which  mer- 
cerization  has  made  in  the  appearance 
of  various  lines  of  fabrics  the  eta- 
mines which  would  be  produced  to-day 
when  Kiercerizea  are  a  much  different 
appearing  clom  to  those  of  other 
years,  and  some  description  regarding 
their  method  of  production  would 
seem  i^esirable.  The  construction  of 
the  ckths  will 

VARY  WIDELY, 

just  as  it  will  for  any  other  fancy  cot- 
ton mill  product,  out,  as  a  general 
thing,  the  threads  and  picks  per 
inch  are  comparatively  tew  in  num- 
ber and  the  yarns  usea  ot  nuavy  size. 
Not  only  are  the  yarns  neavy,  but  a 
large  percentage  of  them  are  of  a  ply 
character,  possibly  the  majority  being 
two  or  three-ply,  though  there  is 
quite  a  quantity  of  these  fabrics  made 
in  which  a  greater  number  of  tnreads 
are  used  in  making  the  ply  yarn,  the 
cloth  under  discussion  being  of  this 
chai^'ter,  as  it  is  made  of  four-ply 
yarn,  both  warp  and  filling.  There  are 
certain  features  in  regard  to  the  pro- 
duction of  these  cloths  which  would 
not  considered  at  all  by  many  who 
are  quite  well  acquainted  with  cloth 
making  and  the  manipulation  of  yarn 


sizes,  iind  methods  of  manufacturing 
are  likely  to  create  quite  a  variation  in 
the  cost  of  production  and  the  selling 
prices.  The  fabric  analyzed  was  made 
from  Egyptian  cotton  and  its  method 
of  construction  creates  a  nigh  rela- 
tive cost,  but  somewhat  similar  lines 
can  be  produced  which,  to  ordinary 
consumers,  might  be  just  about  as  sat- 
isfactory, and  at  a  much  lower  cost. 

CONSTRUCTION  FEATURES. 

These  fabrics  are  made  from  heavy 
yarns  and  with  a  low  count,  and, 
therefore,  any  kind  of  a  fancy  weave 
is  seldom  employed  in  their  manufac- 
ture, inasmuch  as  any  weave  creates 
a  loose  fabric  and  the  effect  does  not 
show  up  in  a  very  desirable  manner. 
Patterns  placed  upon  heavy  cloth  are 
even  more  unsatisfactory  than  those 
placed  upon  very  fine  cloth,  and  ev- 
eryone knows  that  usually  it  is  noi 
worth  while  to  make  fancy  figures  up- 
on very  fine  yarn  materials.  Due  to 
the  low  count,  a  plain  weave  is  practi- 
cally always  employed,  as  this  creates 
the  firmest  fabric  and  gives  better  re- 
sults. One  feature  which  Is  well 
worth  mentioning  is  that  even  though 
plain  weave  is  employed,  there  is  a 
distinct  twill  elfect  noted  upon  the  fin- 
ished cloth,  tliis  being  caused  by  the 
heavy  character  of  the  yam  as  the 
various  threads  interweave  back  ana 
forth.  At  one  time  it  was  considered 
necessary  to  make  any  kind  of  yam 
which  was  to  be  mercerized,  either  be- 
fore or  after  weaving,  out  of  Eens^otian 
cotton,  in  order  to  get  satisfactory  re- 
sults. This  is  not  so  true  to-day,  for 
the  improvement  in  mercerization  has 
been  so  great  that  practically  as  good 
results  can  be  obtained  from  1%-lnch 
cotton  to-day,  as  could  be  oDtained  10 
years  ago  from  1%-inch  cotton.  The 
saving  in  this  one  feature  alone  is  of 
great  importance,  and  while  we  have 
given  the  cost  of  the  cloth  as  made, 
nevertheless  it  is  entirely  probable 
that  most  manufacturers  would  make 
the  cloth  analyzed  from  American 
cotton  of  a  much  shorter  staple. 
Shorter  cotton  costs  less  and  in  addi- 
tion creates  a  much 

SMALLER  LOSS  FOR  WASTE. 

not  only  because  of  lower  price,  but 
also  because  there  is  likely  to  be  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


196 


smaller  percentage  of  short  fibres  in 
cotton  of  shorter  length.  There  is  a 
very  great  difference  in  appearance 
noted  in  various  etamine  cloths  caused 
by  the  irregularity  iu  the  threads 
and  picks  per  inch,  but  there  is  also  a 
great  difference  in  appearance  which 
is  caused  by  the  number  of  threads 
used  in  the  ply  yarn,  and  in  the 
amount  of  twist  per  inch  which  is  in- 
serted. In  the  fabric  analyzed  the 
amount  of  twist  and  the  number  of 
threads  in  the  ply  yarn  have  a  distinct 
influence  upon  the  result,  because  the 
twist  in  the  yarn  seems  to  form  small 
checked  patterns  which  are  seldom 
visible  in  any  other  kind  of  a  finished 
fabric,  and  sometimes  are  very  desir- 
able. Until  the  cloth  is  examined  and 
analyzed  it    would    seem    a.i.  if  there 


mine  can  be  produced  and  these  vari- 
ous methods  have  quite  an  influence 
upon  the  cost  of  production.  First, 
the  fabric  can  be  made  from  yaruo 
which  have  been  mercerized  and  dyed 
before  they  are  woven.  In  this  case 
no  finishing  is  necessary,  as  the  term 
is  ordinarily  known  when  speaking  of 
grey  cloth.  Second,  the  fabric  can  be 
made  entirely  from  grey  yarns  and 
then  piece-dyed  and  mercerized.  This 
method  in  some  fabrics  gives  a  lower 
cost  and  just  as  desirable  results,  but 
it  is  questionable  whether  it  would 
give  as  desirable  results  in  the  cloth 
analyzed,  although  it  undoubtedly 
would  cause  a  lower  cost.  In  this  con- 
nection it  might  be  well  to  state  that 
both  the  warp  and  filling  are  mercer- 
ized  in   this   cloth,   whereas   in   many 


Mercerized  Etamine. 


was  a  very  much  higher  count  than 
actually  exists.  The  direction  of  twist 
in  the  ply  yarn  also  has  an  influence 
on  the  result,  because  when  both  warp 
and  filling  are  twisted  in  the  same 
direction  the  various  squares  seem 
more  prominent,  whereas  when  the 
warp  is  twisted  in  one  direction,  and 
the  filling  in  an  opposite  direction  the 
various  threads  in  the  ply  yarn  seem 
to  correspond  more  closely  in  the 
warp  and  filling,  and  the  small  squares 
do  not  appear  so  prominent. 

METHODS  OF  PRODUCTION. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  ways 
In  which  a  dyed  and  mercerized  eta- 


fabrics  only  the  warp  or  the  filling,  as 
the  case  may  be,  is  the  portion  which 
shows    the   mercerization    effects. 

The  improvement  in  mercerization 
during  the  past  few  years  has  made 
this  method  much  more  satisfactory 
than  it  previously  was,  and  for  many 
fabrics  of  the  character  described,  no 
other  method  could  be  adopted. 
Third,  this  method  consists  of  using 
yarn  which  has  been  mercarized  but 
not  dyed  before  the  weaving  operation. 
When  the  weaving  is  completed  the 
grey  fabric  made  from  mercerized 
yarns  is  bleached  and  then  piece-dyed 
in  whatever  color  seems  most  desir- 
able.      This     method,     while     being 


196 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


somewhat  more  expensive  than 
the  second  method  described,  is, 
nevertheless,  responsible  for  the  warp 
and  filling  having  exactly  the  same 
amount  of  luster,  a  feature  which  is 
sometimes  of  importance  where  warp 
and  filling  are  both  as  prominent  as 
in  the  cloth  considered.  In  any  of 
these  methods  of  construction  there 
is  very  little  difference  in  the  actual 
cloth  production,  for  the  yarn  is  strong 
enough  so  thv^t  practically  no  break- 
ages occur  in  weaving,  the  operation 
of  changing  shuttles  being  the  one 
which  consumes  practically  the  entire 
time  of  the  operative.  If  such  cloths 
are  to  be  produced  in  quite  large 
quantities,  and  more  or  less  continu- 
ously, it  is  a  very  good  plan  to  adopt 
methods  whereby  a  large  amount  of 
yarn  can  be  placed  upon  the  filling 
bobbins,  so  as  to  make  the  loss  from 
shuttle  changing  as  small  as  possible, 
and  also  to  make  as  large  a  number 
of  looms  per  weaver  as  possible.  Even 
though  this  be  done  the  number  of 
looms  which  can  be  operated  io  some- 
what smaller  than  for  most  other  fab- 
rics. 

PLY  YARN  MAKING. 

Many  might  consider  that  the 
making  of  ply  yarns  is  a  simple  mat- 
ter, and  this  is  often  true  for  medium 
sizes  of  such  yarns  where  only  two 
ground  threads  are  used,  but  difficul- 
ties increase  as  the  number  of  ground 
threads  are  increased  and  as  the  ne- 
cessity becomes  greater  for  all  of 
these  various  threads  to  be  present  in 
the  finished  ply  yarn.  In  a  good  many 
mills  stop  motions  are  used  where 
two-ply  yarns  are  made,  which  stop 
the  operation  of  the  rolls  when  one 
end  breaks.  In  other  plants  it  Is  the 
custom  to  make  the  twist  in  the  yam 
such  an  amount  that  if  one  thread 
breaks  down  the  untwisting  of  the  re- 
maining thread  will  be  enough  for  the 
traveler  to  break  down  the  thread 
which  lemains.  When  three  or  more 
ground  threads  are  being  twisted  the 
breaking  of  one  will  not  stop  thv3  twist- 
ing operation,  and  whenever  an  op- 
erative is  looking  after  quite  a  num- 
ber of  spindles  it  might  be  that  the 
ply  yarn  was  made  for  some  time 
with  one  of  the  ground  threads  miss- 
ing.    Whenever  this  occurs,  and  this 


yam  is  not  eliminated,  it  is  likely  to 
cause  streaks  in  the  cloth,  and  spoil 
otherwise  valuable  material. 

SECONDS  CAUSE  LOSSES. 

Any  large  amount  of  seconds  in 
fancy  cloth  may  cause  large  losses, 
which  make  the  production  of  sucu 
fabrics  much  less  desirable  than  costs 
indicate,  inasmuch  as  seconds  cannot 
be  sold  at  anything  like  the  price  for 
firsts  when  any  large  quantity  is 
made.  To  obviate  any  difficulty  when 
ply  yarns  are  being  made  certain  ma- 
chines have  been  developed  which 
place  together  the  various  ground 
threads,  but  do  not  insert  auy  twist 
whatever.  On  these  frames  there  is 
a  ftop  motion  on  every  ground 
thread,  which  makes  it  certain  that 
the  ply  yarn  which  is  produced  will 
always  contain  the  correct  number  of 
threads.  When  spools  are  tilled  with 
these  ply  threads  which  are  not  twist- 
ed, they  are  taken  to  the  twisting 
frame  and  the  correct  amount  of  twist 
inserted,  but  all  the  threads  in  the 
ply  yarn  come  off  of  a  single  spool 
upon  the  twisting  frame  instead  of 
coming  off  of  three,  four  or  more 
spools  as  the  case  may  be.  Although 
the  cost  of  placing  these  yarns  upon  a 
spool  is  relatively  high,  nevertheless 
the  results  obtained  in  a  lower  twist 
Ing  cost  and  in  a  smaller  number  oi 
seconds  more  than  warrants  the  in- 
stallation of  such  a  process,  at  least 
where  anything  but  the  cneapest  cloth 
is  being  produced. 

ANOTHER  FEATURE 

which  is  of  importance  in  yarn  pro- 
duction is  that  a  high  percentage  ol 
production  should  be  obtained,  largely 
because  a  long  staple  of  cotton  is  used 
for  a  relatively  coarse  size  of  yarn. 
There  are  very  few  fabrics  where 
anything  over  one-inch  staple  would 
be  used  for  a  yarn  which  is  as  coarse 
as  16-1.  It  is  also  possible  to  make 
yarn  with  a  lower  standard  of  twist 
than  that  normally  used,  just  because 
the  staple  is  longer  than  necessary 
for  the  size  of  yarn  being  made.  This 
lower  standard  of  twist  is  of  impor- 
tance, inasmuch  as  it  makes  a  greater 
amount  of  luster  when  the  yarn  is 
mercerized.  The  less  twist  there  Is  in 
yarn  or  the  straighter  the  various  cot- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


197 


Lou  fibres  lie  when  woven,  the  better 
is  the  result  produced  when  the  yarn 
or  cloth  is  mercerized.  This  is  why 
soft  twist  yarn  is  used  in  che  warp 
when  warp  yarn  is  mercerized  in 
clotLs  similar  to  poplins,  and  is  also 
the  reason  why  sott  twist  filling  yarn 
is  used  in  mercerized  shirting  fabrics 
of  a  wide  variety. 

BALANCE    OF    ORGANIZATION. 

There  are  a  great  many  problems 
which  come  up  when  different  kinds 
of  fancy  coiton  fabrics  are  being  pro- 
duced, but  none  of  them  have  any 
more  serious  effect  upon  profits  than 
the  correct  balance  of  the  whole  plant. 
This  subject  is  not  considered  care- 
fully ei^ough  by  a  good  many  mill  men 
and  possibly  by  a  majority  of  those 
who  sell  the  cloth,  inasmuch  as  they 
ntten  know  very  little  regarding  the 
actual  effect  which  the  accepting  of 
any  order  will  have  on  the  operation 
of  the  various  machines.  Take  a  fab- 
ric like  that  analyzed  for  an  example 
when  it  has  been  produced  from  a  cot- 
ton such  as  that  noted.  Up  to  the 
roving  machinery  the  methods  em- 
ployed will  be  somewhat  similar  to 
those  ordinarily  seen  when  medium  or 
fine  yarns  are  to  be  made.  At  the 
point  mentioned  a  great  difference 
is  noted,  for  few  fly-frame  processes 
are  necessary,  and  the  roving  instead 
of  being  of  fine  size  in  order  to  make 
fine  yarns  must  be  of  coarse  size  to 
give  the  best  results. 

On  the  spinning  frame  the  produc- 
tion instead  of  being  small,  as  would 
be  noted  for  the  length  of  cotton  be- 
ing used,  is  quite  large,  due  to  the  low 
count  of  yarn  and  also  to  the  some- 
what lower  than  normal  standard  of 
twist.  If  this  coarse  yarn  is  made  on 
a  spinning  frame  which  has  been  run- 
ning: on  coa'-se  varns,  that  is,  a  frame 
with  rings  of  nuite  eond  size,  the  spin- 
ning frame  rolls  will  have  to  be  reset 
in  order  to  handle  a  longer  staple  of 
cotton.  If  frames  with  small  rings 
only  are  available  then  there  are  diffi- 
culties because  of  the  small  amount 
which  a  bobbin  will  hold.  Due  to  the 
large  production  on  the  spinning 
frame,  a  relatively  small  number  of 
spindles  in  comparison  to  carding  and 
other  machinery  is  necessary,  and  of- 
ten the  making  of  such  yarn  will  cause 


idle  spinning  machinery.  Due  to  the 
coaise  size  of  roving  necessary  one 
and  sometimes  more  processes  of  tly- 
frames  aie  eliminated,  and  usualiy 
there  is  no  other  work  to  keep  such 
idle  machinery  in  operation.  The 
STRENGTH  OF  THE  YARN 
and  other  conditions  permit  of  large 
pioduction  on  machines  which  sue 
vcea  uie  spinning  name,  ana  tnis  caus- 
es stoppage  01  machineiy  and  other 
difticulLiea.  Ihexe  aie  many  miil  men 
who  never  consiaer  idle  machinery  in 
the  cost  of  any  cloth,  and  whne  this 
is  a  difficult  problem,  neveitheless 
there  aie  a  gooa  many  cloths  on 
which  some  provision  should  be  made 
if  anyihing  uke  coirect  results  aie  to 
be  ootamtd.  ii  oue-thiru  o:  the  spin- 
ning machinery  is  idle,  the  remainder 
must  earn  laige  enough  profits  to 
make  the  dividends  of  a  satisiactory 
chaiacter. 

Anoiher  feature  which  must  be  con- 
sideied  when  a  cloth  such  as  that  ana- 
lyzed is  being  made  is  that  the  yarn 
Will  have  to  be  spun  and  twisted  and 
then  shipped  to  some  other  plant  to 
be  mercerized  in  the  majority  of  in- 
stances. This  will  make  delivery 
dates  uncertain  and  will  increase  the 
cost  of  production  quite  radically  if 
the  yarn  does  not  happen  to  be  avail- 
able at  the  time  necessary.  This  has 
been  one  of  the  main  reasons  why 
certain  silk  sellers  have  been  able  to 
obtain  a  large  portion  of  th-^  silk  busi- 
ness of  cotton  mills,  for  they  keep  silk 
always  available,  so  that  no  machinery 
is  idle.  Of  course,  it  is  the  duty  of 
the  seller  to  see  that  ample  provision 
is  made  when  orders  are  accepted,  but 
unsatisfactory  delivery  causes  many 
troubles,  and  even  if  damage  suits  are 
instituted  they  seldom  compensate  for 
losses  which  are  incurred.  When  fab- 
rics vary  radically  from  season  to 
season,  and  from  month  to  month,  or 
when  every  order  may  be  of  a  differ- 
ent character,  it  takes  a 

GREAT  DEAL  OF  ABILITY 
on  the  part  of  a  Roller  to  keep  machin- 
ery operating  in  full.  Sometimes  it  is 
a  good  plan  to  sell  certain  fahrics  at 
cost  when  thev  are  necessary  for  eco- 
nomical oneratinn  f  the  plant  instpad 
of  accepting  orders  for  some  other 
kind  of  fabric  which  ordinarily  would 


198 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


show  a  satisfactory  profit.  Recently 
this  organization  problem  has  been  il- 
lustrated clearly  by  conditions  in 
many  fine  goods  mills.  In  these  plants 
not  over  80  per  cent  of  the  looms  and 
some  other  machinery  have  been  op- 
erating, while  cards  and  certain  other 
machines  have  been  running  full  and 
in  some  cases  overtime.  Not  only  is 
an  intimate  knowledge  of  mills  in  gen- 
eral and  the  one  sold  in  particular 
necessary,  if  the  best  profit  be  se- 
cured, but  it  is  also  necessary  to  have 
accurate  records  kept  regarding  the 
various  machines  in  the  plant.  Un- 
less this  be  done  trouble  will  surely 
result  with  delivery  dates  uncertain 
and  friction  between  buyers  and  sell- 
ers. 

THE  OBTAINING   OF  PROFITS. 

One  feature  which  has  not  been 
brought  to  attention  during  recent 
years  has  been  that  a  large  proportion 
of  the  cloths  made  have  been  of  rather 
low  constructions.  This  fact  has  al- 
lowed quite  a  large  production  to  oc- 
cur on  the  looms,  and  makes  satisfac- 
tory mill  dividends  when  a  -'ery  small 
profit  per  yard  is  secured.  Take 
voiles  for  an  example.  On  many  of 
these  fabrics  one-half  to  three-quar- 
ters of  a  cent  per  yard  would  be  re- 
sponsible for  an  excellent  mill  show- 
ing, while  on  certain  kinds  of  sateens 
and  shirtings,  the  same  amount  of 
profit  per  ya»-d  would  be  rather  unsat- 
isfactory    from     a     mill     standpoint. 

With  competition  as  keen  as  it  has 
been  and  the  demand  in  yardage  rath- 
er subnormal,  there  would  not  have 
been  as  satisfactory  a  mill  condition 
as  exists  to-day.  if  higher  constructed 
fabrics  have  been  in  demand.  It  is 
also  probable  that  the  number  of 
looms  which  have  been  operating  have 
been  able  to  produce  as  many,  if  not 
more,  yards  of  cloth  than  was  former- 
ly produced  when  operating  in  full. 
Although  the  percentage  of  produc- 
tion is  not  quite  as  high  when  some 
of  the  low  pick  materials  are  being 
madfi,  nevertheless  the  construction 
of  the  cloth  has  been  responsible  for 
a  distinct  gnin  in  yardage  per  loom 
obtainpd.  Take  the  cloth  analyzed. 
This  has  nnlv  24  picks  per  inch  when 
woven,  and  this  fact  makes  it  possible 
for    a   very    large    yardage    per    loom 


to  be  obtained  in  comparison  to  many 
of  the  fancy  fabrics  which  have  some- 
times been  in  demand.  Even  when 
compared  with  voiles  and  crepes,  the 
production  is  quite  a  little  larger  in 
yards  produced.  Due  to  the  above 
fact  the  amount  of  profit  per  yard  nec- 
essary to  pay  a  reasonable  dividend 
seems  incredibly  small,  when  com- 
pared with  the  profits  which  retailers 
and  others  often  find  to  be  necessary. 

We  have  given  the  cost  of  making 
the  fabric  analyzed  and  its  approxi- 
mate selling  prices.  It  is  entirely 
probable  that  a  construction  of  a 
similar  character  could  be  made  from 
shorter  cotton  and  sold  to  retail  at 
35  cents  per  yard,  or  even  less.  To  a 
consumer  such  a  construction  would 
be  just  as  desirable  as  that  analyzed. 
In  fact,  it  is  questionable  whether  the 
cotton  used  in  tliis  fabric  adds  any- 
thing whatever  to  the  finished  result. 
This  question  of  cotton  for  any  fabric 
is  one  which  has  never  been  con- 
sidered as  carefully   as    it    might  be. 

A  subject  which  in  some  cases 
CAUSES  DIFFICULTIES 
is  the  fact  that  ply  yarns  may 
shrink  or  stretch  according  to 
the  twist  which  is  being  inserted.  If 
a  single  yarn  sizes  20-1  and  when 
twisted  two  ply  sizes  relatively  9.5-1, 
it  makes  a  lot  of  difference  in  the  cost 
of  the  cloth  than  if  it  sized  10.5-1.  If 
either  occurs  and  provision  is  not 
made  for  it  the  proper  cost  is  not  ob- 
tained, and  if  the  cloth  is  heavy  the 
profit  figured  is  not  being  obtained, 
while  if  the  cloth  is  light  an  extra 
profit  is  being  secured.  Some  manu- 
facturers spin  their  single  yarns  so  as 
to  produce  a  certain  sue  of  yarn  when 
they  are  twisted  and  in  this  case  the 
problem  is  very  simple.  When  this 
ply  yarn  variation  has  been  satisfac- 
torily settled  the  method  of  finding  the 
weights  of  yarn  and  cloth  is  very 
simple,  and  is  as  follows: 

720    ends    -h    (16/4    X    840)    =    .2143,    welpht 

of    warp   per    yard    without    take-up. 
T'^'r    take-un    In    wp^vinp:. 
.2143    H-    .93    =    .2304,    total    weight    of   warp 

vnrn    ppr    woven    vard. 
24  picks  X  29  V4"  reed  width  X  36" 

=      708 

36" 

vds.    of   filling:   per  woven    vard. 
708    -^    (16/4    X    S40)    =    .2107,    total    welffht 

r>f    fiPine-    per    woven    vard. 
.2304   +  .2107  =  .4411,  total  weight  per  yard, 
1.0"""     -=-     .4411     "=     2.27    yards    per    pound 

(«r*y). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


199 


PATTERN. 
lC/4    Eg.   mercerized   warp        12        696        12      =    720,    total  ends. 
16/4   Kg.   mercerizeil   fihlng.      24   picks. 

24   reed;    2yV4i"  width    in  reed,   28"   grey    width,    27"   finished   width. 
2t>   X    23  tinished  count. 

YARN. 

Labor,  waste, 
twisting, 
merceriz- 
Cotton.        Ing.  eic. 
lb/4  Kg.  combed  warp  and  filling;  1%"  sta. ;  3%   hank  dou.  rov.,    2Zc.  16%c.        =   38?ic. 

CLOTH  COST. 

720  ends  16/4  Eg.  combed  mercerized  warp    +   1%  take-up... =   .2]43    @    38%c.      =  $  .0831 

!4   picks   lti/4   Lg.   combed   mercerized   tilling =   .2107    ^    3!i%,c.      =  .0K17 

Weaving     .0064 

Expenses     .0052 

$  .1764 
Selling    (grey)     .0035 

$  .1799 

Mill    selling    price    (approximately) $  .1775 

Finishing,    dyeing,    etc .0150 

$  .1925 

Converter's    price    (about) $  .2750 

Jobbers    price    (about) .3250 

Retailers   price .4600 

Kards  per  pound  2.27    (grey). 

Plain  weave. 

• ♦*» 

TUMA   n  TDDfn  CDAT    rvDUCC  ^o''  *^^®  introduction  of  heavy  filling. 

LIjIiU   uLiririU   OlUl    UIvJjijij  As   previously   mentioned,   the   cloths 

are 
TAAnC  MADE  FROM  YARNS 

UUUl/0  .  which    would    be    considered    of    fine 

_,,  .  ,.         i,    ,  XT.      ,..  ,.  •  character  by  the  majority  of  manufac- 

Therr  is  one  line  of  cloth  which  is  ^^^^^^     ^l^i^  j^  necessary  bec:.use  the 

made  in  quite  wide  variety  and  which  ^^^^.^  produced  are  made  through  the 

in  a  general  way  is  of  a  -ight  charac-  contrast  of  a  fine  ground  fabric  with 

ter     haying    a    more    or    less    regular  j^^^^    „  ^^,^^  f,       ^^     Naturally,  yarns 

distribcuion.  thougn  seldom  mentioned.  ^^       jj^     ^^^  ,5^     ^^^  essential   if 

in  a  good   many  instances,  such   fab-  ^,^g    ^^^^^^   produced    le   satisfactory, 

ncs    are    known    by     special     names  ^^^  ^  amount  of  irregularity 

which  are  likely  to  change  in  different  j^^  j^^^       .^^^  i^  particularly  noticeable 

seasons,   but  to  a  manufacturer  they  ^^.^^^^   ^^^^^^   i^^^   ^j  ,,,^^   especially   if 

are   known   as   a   fine   yarn   box   loom  ^,^^j  ^,,^,^1^  ^^  j  ^^^^^  ^jtl^     i^in 

and   leno   product.     The   ground    con-  vveave 

structions  of  the  fabrics  do  not  vary  '  HEAV"'  YARN 

widely  from  season  to  season,  though  „      necessary    for    the    heavy 

the  effects  may  differ  quite  radically,  ^p^^^    ^.eLuse  this  creates  a  distinct 

uiey  are  used  tor  contrast  with  the  light  and  semitrans- 

WAISTINGS  AND  DRESSES  parent    ground.      In    some    cases    the 

,         .         ,  .   J  J       in        1      4.U  yarn  which    forms    the    spots,  or  the 

0  dIrTTre     ?or '   smalle'r     quIntiUe:      ^^^ra  filling  yarn,  is  of  a  dyed  charac- 
orders     are     tor     smaller     quantities      ^        ^  ^   .^^   ^^j^gj.  ^^g^g  ^^  jg   entirely 

than  a  good  many  manufacturers  usu-  ^^  probablv  the  greatest  por- 

ally    pioduce     never  h    ess    they    are  .              ^j^^g^    ^l„t,^g    ^^^    ^^^^   ^^d 

one  of  the  fabrics  which  should  form  .      ^  ^^^^.^^  ^^^^^      ^^^^  introduc- 

a  portion  of  the  staple  business  of  a  .         ^  ,^^^  ^^^^^^    ^^^^  t,,^„  ,,  of  ^ 

fancy  mill  usinp  fine  yarns.     They  c^o  .       ,     character,  sometimes 

not  require  machinery  of  an  especially  ^         '             /-"dtt-at'  t^tt-at 

complicated  character,  for  they  can  be  ADDS  A  GREAT  DEAL, 

made     on    an    ordinary    dobby    loom,  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  result,  in- 

which  is  equipped  with  a  box  motion  asmuch  as  it  makes   possible  an  en- 


200 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


tirely  different  effect,  and  creates  an 
impression  of  a  mucii  more  open  fab- 
ric tlian  actually  exists.  Sometimes 
cfianges  can  be  made  very  easily  in 
the  patterns  produced,  and  it  is  not 
always  necessary  to  redraw  warps  or 
to  have  a  different  cloth  construction 
in  order  to  obtain  various  effects. 
This  is  noted  because  the  warp  is 
made  entirely  from  one  kind  of  yarn, 
whereas  the 

BOX  LOOM  MOTION 

is  responsible  for  the  figure  and  can 
be  changed  much  easier  than  if  the 
pattern  were  made  in  the  warp.  Ef- 
fects in  great  variety  ars  made  by  tne 
combination  of  tlie  two  weaves  men- 
tioned, and  it  forms  the  basis  for  a 
large   sale  of  what   might   be   termed 


the  cotton  which  is  used  for  any  size 
of  yarn  must  be  longer  than  when 
grey  yarns  are  being  used  anu  often 
very  different  methods  have  to  be 
used  in  order  to  obtam  satisfactory 
results.  When  new  dyestufts  were  de 
veloped,  which  would  stand  the 
bleaclung  process,  it  made  possible 
another  method  of  production,  which 
undoubtedly  gives  a 

LOWER  COST 

of  prodjction,  and  eliminates  certain 
of  the  difhcullies  and  many  of  the 
urocesses  previously  uecess'ry.  This 
does  not  mean  that  all  manufacturers 
have  adopted  such  a  method  to-day 
but  it  means  that  an  increasmg  num 
ber  of  such  cloths  will  be  made  iron 
grey  yarns  and  with  last  color  spots 


■•lizm 


Leno  Clipped  Spot  Dress  Goods. 


one  of  the  fanciest  varieties  of  cotton 
fabric  made  with  ordinary  equipment. 
Until  a  few  years  ago  it  wa:  possi- 
ble to  make  effects  such  as  are  seen 
in  the  sample  analyzed  in  only  one 
manner,  this  being  through  the  use  of 
bleached  and  dyed  yarns.' •  Fev/  manu- 
facturers of  fabrics  realize  the  diffi- 
culties which  exist  when  fine  yarns 
are  bleaclied,  dyed,  and  then  woven 
into  fabrics.  In  the  first  place,  the 
various  processes  which  are  necessary 
make  the  cost  of  such  cloths  ex- 
cessive, and  limit  the  sale  to 
a  great  extent.      For    another   thing. 


The  reason  for  thir  is  that  the  use  oi 
grey  yarns,  whi  ^h  are  stronger  than 
when  bleached  and  handled,  gives  a 
greater  percentage  of  production  and 
a  lower  cost.  It  eliminates  many  of 
the  troubles  which  occur  when 

FINE  BLEACHED   YARNS 

are  used,  and,  in  a  good  many  in- 
stances, is  undoubtedly  responsible  for 
a  much  better  finished  fabric.  For 
practically  all  fabrics,  such  as  are  be- 
ing described,  a  plain  weave  ground  is 
used,  because  fine  yarns  ■<  ould  slip 
badly  with  a  low  construction  if  any 


A  COTTON    FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


201 


woven  figure  were  used.  Then,  woven 
figures  do  not  show  any  great  contrast 
aiiQ  are  not  especially  effective  when 
made  entirely  from  fine  yarn,  and 
with  no  heavy  yarns  useu  in  addition. 

FIRMNESS 

is  also  an  essential  characteristic  in 
any  fabric  which  is  to  be  used  for 
dress  goods,  and  to  give  this  firmness 
with  a  low  count  it  is  necessary  to  use 
plain  weave,  or  at  least  some  simple 
wtave.  Inasmuch  as  most  of  the  sim- 
ple weaves  do  not  show  any  particu- 
larly desirable  effects  on  fine  cloths, 
It  happens  that  plain  weave  practical- 
ly always  forms  the  ground.  All  of 
these  light  fabrics  are,  however,  fab- 
rics in  which 

STRONG  CONTRAST 

usually  exists,  and  these  contrasts  are 
bn.ught  about  by  the  fine  yarn  ground 
and  the  heavy  spots  o  figures  which 
are  made  by  the  box  loom  motion. 
The  introduction  of  various  small  leno 
figures  is  desirable,  inasmuch  as  they 
offer  some  coutiast  to  the  ground  cloth. 
Due  to  their  small  nature,  it  does  not 
slip  badly  and  so  is  satisfactory.  One 
of  the  noticeable  features  in  these 
cloths  is  the  way  the  elects  are  pro- 
duced. The  arrangement  of  the  leno- 
and  heavy  yarn  figures  is  often  re- 
sponsible for  the  success  or  failure  of 
any  pattern,  and  the  combination  of 
them  produces  effects  which  to  many 
seem  more  complicated  than  most  oth- 
er kinds  of  woven  cloth.  These  kinds 
of  cloths  are  being  developed  quite  ex- 
tensively in  foreign  mills  at  present, 
with  allover  figures  and  with  leno 
and  plain  weave  grounds.  Undoubted- 
ly domestic  mills  will  attemi  t  to  pro- 
duce fabrics  somewhat  similar,  but 
they  are 

NOT  EQUIPPED 

at  all  extensively  with  jacquards  In 
combination  with  the  leno  attachment, 
ana  for  this  reason  the  figures  pos- 
sible are  very  limited.  It  only  re- 
quires ten  harnesses  for  the  produc- 
tion of  the  box  loom  spot,  ana  these, 
in  addition  to  the  harnesses  which 
weave  leno  and  those  which  form  the 
plain  ground,  complete  the  number 
necessary.  In  many  of  such  fabrics  it 
is  only  essential  to  have  two  harness- 


es for  plain  weave,  inasmuch  as  the 
leno  and  box  loom  portions  of  the 
cloth 

ELIMINATE   DIFFICULTIES 

from  overcrowding  of  heddles  cm  the 
ground  fabric  harnesses.  The  warp 
yarn  would  have  to  be  placed  upon 
two  different  beams  in  order  to  be 
woven  satisfactorily,  ina.  much  as  the 
leno  portion  is  likely  to  have  a  iffer- 
cnl  pu;i\up  than  ti^a-,  portion  wuere 
ground  cJclh  is  being  made.  In  oouie 
kiiid.«:  of  leno  it  is  i-.  oessary  to  h  <\o 
two  beams  extra  for  the  leno,  but  in 
this  case  it  is  not  necessary,  as  the 
ground  and  crossing  threads  in  the 
leno  take  up  identical  amounts. 

INGENUITY  IN  DEVELOPING. 

Just  how  the  fabric  is  developed 
will  have  a  large  amount  of  influence 
upon  the  results  obtained,  and  this  is 
ore  reason  why  a  certain  portion  of 
the  foreign  fabrics  made  show  better 
results.  Domestic  makers  are  very 
liable  to  slight  fabric  details  when 
they  are  developing  ideas,  and  con- 
sider quantity  of  more  importance 
than  quality.  This,  however,  is  not  of 
advantage  when  it  comes  to  selling 
cloth,  neither  does  it  aid  very  much  m 
getting  off  the 

LARGEST  PERCENTAGE 

of  production.  In  the  fabric  consid- 
ered, it  is  necessary  to  use  a  reed 
where  four  ends  are  drawn  in  dent  be- 
cause of  the  leno  weave.  Of  course,  it 
would  be  possible  to  use  a  36-reed, 
and  wherever  the  l3no  is  made,  to  re- 
move the  wire  so  that  there  would  be 
four  ends  per  dent,  but  this  practice 
spoils  the  reed  and  is  not  especially 
desirable  where  small  quantities  of 
any  fabric  are  to  be  made.  In  addition 
to  spoiling  the  reed  other 

UNDESIRABLE   RESULTS 

would  be  produced,  which  would  not 
be  considered  of  importance  by  those 
not  experienced.  In  a  cloth  like  that 
analyzed  if  one  portion  contains  four 
ends  per  dent,  and  another  portion 
two  ends  per  dent,  the  reed  marks 
would  not  be  so  prominent  in  one  part 
as  in  another  part  of  the  cloth,  and 
buyers  would  object  to  the  streaky  ap- 


202 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


pearance  produced.  They  would  criti- 
cize the  results,  and  it  would  be 

VERY  HARD  TO  EXPLAIN 

why  the  same  effect  could  not  be  pro- 
duced throughout  the  entire  fabric. 
"Under  such  conditions  it  is  tetter  to 
have  the  whole  fabric  showing  promi- 
nent reed  marks  than  ':  is  to  have 
only  one  portion  of  the  cloth  particu- 
larly noticeable  in  this  direction.  This 
is  the  reason  why  an  18-reed  was  used 
with  four  ends  per  dent  rather  than  a 
36-reed  with  the  ground  portion  drawn 
in  two  threads  per  dent.  It  makes  a 
great  deal  of  difference  where  the 

HEAVY  SPOTS 

are  introduced  into  the  cloth,  and  it 
is  one  of  the  most  important  things 
when  developing  a  cloth  tu  introduce 
these  spots  where  they  wi  1  show  up 
well,  and,  in  addition,  where  they  will 
cause  little  difficulty  in  the  weaving 
operation.  The  operation  of  the  leno 
threads  and  the  introduction  of  heavy 
filling  in  one  portion  of  a  fabric  and 
not  in  other  portions  is  very  likely  to 
cause  very  bad  streaks;  in  fact,  in 
some  patterns  it  is 

ABSOLUTELY  IMPOSSIBLE 

tcf  eliminate  some  of  the  bad  features. 
Whenever  such  cloths  are  being  wo- 
ven, careful  weaving  and  loom  setting 
will  be  responsible  for  a  great  differ- 
ence in  the  effect  produced.  In  order 
to  aid  in  obtaining  a  regular  ground 
cloth,  it  is  the  usual  practice  to  use 
heavy  filling  with  soft  twist,  either  in 
single  yarn  or  when  2-ply  is  used.  A 
low  standard  of  twist  allows  the 
ground  picks  to  be  driven  in  closer, 
and  helps  to  eliminate  the  tendencies 
to  streakiness. 

THICK  AND  THIN  PLACES 

are  one  of  the  greatest  difficulties 
noted  when  fine  yarn  fabrics  deco- 
rated with  heavy  spots  arp  being 
made.  It  is  necessary  to  lift  the  take- 
up  paw]  so  that  the  cloth  will  not 
weave  down  and  leave  a  thin  place 
when  the  heavy  yarn  is  being  inserted. 
It  often  happens  that  the  pawl  must 
be  raired  before  the  heavy  filling  is 
inserted,  in  order  to  eliminate  diffi- 
culty, and  sometimes  the  pawl  is 
raised  many  more  times  at  the  start 


of  a  spot  than  it  is  when  the  last  por- 
tion of  the  figure  is  being  made. 

MECHANICAL  DIFFICULTIES 
and  the  variation  in  yarn  and  pattern 
are  responsible  for  this  practice,  and 
any  dilticuities  are  usually  adjusted  at 
the  loom  in  order  to  produce  the  best 
effect  possible.  Because  this  take-up 
pawl  is  raised  the  number  of  picks  per 
inch  are  greater  than  the  pick  gear 
used  would  indicate.  To  get  the  aver- 
age number  of  picks  per  inch  some- 
times causes  a  good  deal  of  difficulty, 
because  the  take-up  in  the  fabric  may 
vary  somewhat.    The 

VARIOUS  LENO  THREADS 

operate  in  a  plain  manner  when  they 
are  not  crossing  back  and  forth.  In 
each  leno  effect  there  are  four  threads, 
and  when  open  work  is  being  made 
two  of  these  threads  cross  over  the 
remaining  two  threads  and  stay  in 
their  position  while  three  picks  are 
being  inserted.  To  anyone  who  is  at 
all  familiar  with  leno  work,  the  meth- 
od of  producing  such  a  weave  is  very 
simple.  It  only  requires  that  the  two 
crossing  threads  be  drawn 

THROUGH  THE  LOOP 
of  the  doup  instead  of  the  single 
heavy  end  so  often  noted.  Instead  of 
having  these  two  crossing  threads  op- 
e-ate  with  one  or  more  ground 
threads,  they  operate  upon  two  ground 
threads  which,  when  leno  is  not  being 
made,  weave  in  a  plain  manner.  One 
feature  which  is  worth  noting  is  that 
the  cloth  is  practically  always  woven 
face  down.  This  is  done  because  it 
allows  a 

MUCH  SMALLER  PORTION 
of  the  warp  yarn  to  be  lifted  when  the 
figure  is  being  made  than  if  the  cloth 
v^ere  woven  face  up.  The  lifting  up 
of  a  smaller  portion  of  tne  face  yarn 
is  likely  to  eliminate  a  portion  of  the 
streaking  tendencies.  This  cloth 
and  many  others  of  a  similar 
character  can  be  woven  with  the 
face  UT',  but  it  is  seldom  made  in 
this  manner.  One  objection  to  weav- 
ing a  fabric  face  down  is  that  it  does 
not  peimit  the  operative  to  see  the 
portion  of  the  cloth  which  is  to  be  the 
face  when  finished,  and  as  everyone 
knows,  there  are  often  places-  which 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


203 


can  be  Improved  by  the  operative 
when  seen,  but  which  often  slip  by 
when  they  are  on  the  back  of  the 
cloth. 

PROCESSES  AFTER  WEAVING. 

A  process  which  is  seldom  noted  on 
ordinary  cotton  fabrics,  but  ^^hich  is 
necessary  in  order  to  create  attrac- 
tive results  on  fabrics  suca  as  that 
analyzed,  is  the  shearing  of  the  heavy 
yarn  from  the  fabric,  when  it  is  not 
producing  a  figure  on  the  face  of  the 
cloth.  The  heavy  filling  floats  from 
one  figure  to  the  next  repeat  across 
the  width  of  the  fabric,  and  these  long 
floats  would  be  very  undesirable  to 
consumers  when  made  into  a  garment. 
To  eliminate  this  difficulty  they  are 

CLIPPED  OFF 
by  machine.  Manufacturers  much 
prefer  to  produce  clipped  spots  by  the 
box  loom  method,  inasmuch  aii  it  is  a 
comparatively  easy  process  to  cut  off 
filling  floats  when  the  cloth  is  woven. 
As  the  cloth  passes  through  the  ma- 
chine it  is  much  easier  for  the  knives 
to  be  inserted  under  filling  floats  than 
under  warp  floats.  One  of  the  great 
difficulties  in  making  certain  kinds  of 
clipped  spot  figures  is  to  get  ihe  va- 
rious floats  long  enough  so  that  the 
knives  can  operate.  In  most  cases  it 
is  necessary  to  give  the  fabric 
A  NUMBER  OF  RUNS 
upon  the  shearing  machine,  in  order 
to  get  the  spots  properly  sheared.  In 
a  good  many  instances,  the  flrst  proc- 
ess merely  consists  in  cutting  the  va- 
rious floats,  and  succeeding  processes 
brush  up  the  clipped  ends  and  permit 
the  shears  to  cut  the  ends  down  close 
to  the  woven  figure.  The  arrangement 
of  the  pattern  has  much  to  do  with 
the  success  of  the  shearing  operation. 
When  detached  small  figures  are 
made  there  is  usually  little  difl^culty, 
but  where  laree  allover  figures  are 
woven  there  are  likely  to  be  small 
places  where  the  knives  will  not  work 
and  the  openwork  effects  are  not  pro- 
duced. 

REGULATING  PROFITS. 

All  of  these  various  fabrics  must  be 
made  carefullv  and  in  addition  sold 
carefully,  if  the  best  results  be  se- 
cured, and  if  a  satisfactory  profit  be 
made.      The    production    in    yards    Is 


comparatively  small  per  loom,  because 
it  is  box  loom  work  where  a  low  loom 
speed  is  noted,  and,  in  addition,  the 
percentage  of  production  is  likely  to 
be  radically  lower  than  for  ordinary 
fabrics,  because  of 

THE  LENO  MOTION 
with  the  use  of  fine  yarns.  These 
fabrics  are  ones  where  information 
in  regard  to  particular  fabrics  is  of 
value,  for  various  small  features  have 
a  great  influence  upon  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction. The  use  of  good  cotton  is  al- 
ways to  be  recommended,  because 
the  costs  for  material  are  relatively 
small,  and  the  costs  for  labor  relative- 
ly high.  Sometimes  the  introduction 
of  a  longer  cotton  will  save  much 
more  than  its  cost  through  greater 
percentage  of  production  at  the  loom. 
This  is  regardless  of  the  fict  that  bet- 
ter yarn  and  better  cloth  are  made, 
and  a 

BETTER  FINISHED  RESULT 
produced.  Sometimes  the  use  of  bet- 
ter yarn  will  permit  a  greater  number 
of  looms  per  operative  to  be  run.  The 
fact  that  quite  a  little  leno  is  used,  to- 
gether with  the  box  loom  motion, 
makes  it  necessary  for  many  fewer 
looms  per  operative  to  be  noted,  and 
this  increases  the  cost  of  weaving 
quite  radically.  A  good  many  manu- 
facturers do  not  like  to  make  such 
fabrics  for  this  very  reason,  inasmuch 
as  it  makes  many  more  weavers  nec- 
essary f  )r  the  number  of  looms  oper- 
ated and  these  weavers  are 

NOT  ALWAYS  AVAILABLE 
and  any  further  change  In  fabric  style 
makes  them  again  unnecessary.  This 
brings  up  the  fact  that  an  experienced 
seller  will  manipulate  the  orders  re- 
ceived 'n  such  a  manner  as  to  kiep  all 
of  the  help  employed  continually,  this 
being  of  great  importance  when  prof- 
Its  are  concerned.  When  fabrics  vary 
widely  in  character,  it  Is  absolutely 
necessary  to  have  some  reasonably 
accurate  method  of  obtaining  the  cost, 
and  where  the  number  of  picks  per 
Inch 

WILL  DIFFER  WIDELY, 
and  yarn  sizes  of  a  variable  nature  be 
used,   the  avernee  production    method 
so  often  noted  Is  certain  to  give  Inac- 
curate results     The  cloths  are  usually 


204 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


finished  in  a  crisp  manner,  but  there 
is  comparatively  little  difficulty  when 
the  clotli  is  woven  and  sheared.  Due 
to  the  fine  character  of  the  yarns  there 
is  a  very  small  take-up  in  the  weaving 
process,  and  there  is  also  a  much 
smaller  shrinkage  in  width  than  for 
other  heavier  fabrics  where  the  yarn 
shows  a  greater  amount  of  curvature. 
One  of  the  most  difficult  problems 
when 

ANALYZING  A  FABRIC 
of  this  character  is  to  estimate  the 
size  of  the  yarn  which  has  been  used 
for  making  the  clipped  spoij.  When- 
ever wide  figures  are  made,  it  is  usu- 
ally possible  to  take  from  the  fabric 
pieces  of  heavy  yarn  which  can  be 
easily  compared  with  others  ard  be  es- 
timated quite  accurately.  But  when 
the  figures  are  very  small,  this  is  not 
so  easy,  and  the  estimated  yarn  size 


may  vary  from  what  was  actually 
used.  When  this  has  been  accom- 
plished, there  is 

NO  GREAT  DIFFICULTY 
in  obtaining  the  cloth  weight  as  it 
comes  from  the  loom.  Few  care 
about  the  weight  in  a  finished  state, 
and  for  this  reason  the  weight  Is  sel- 
dom obtained  when  the  fabric  has 
been  sheared.  To  find  the  average 
yarn  size  upon  which  the  new  rates  of 
duty  are  ascertained  is  not  so  easy  a 
problem  as  many  have  considered  it  to 
be,  and  there  is  likely  to  be  a  great 
amount  of  trouble  when  average  yarn 
sizes  for  such  cloths  come  anywhere 
near  the  dividing  line.     Due  to  the 

VARIATION  IN  SHEARING 

and  other  features,  there  are  likely  to 
be  no  two  portions  of  the  cloth  simi- 
lar, and  no  average  obtained  which 
will  be  at  all  accurate.     The  method 


PATTERN. 


60/1    Am.   combed  warp 


75/1    Am.   combed   fillinff. 
40/2   Am.    combed   filling. 


2,144  — 

2  12 

70       picks  ground. 

ICVi    pick.s  figure.      Dyed. 


2,192.    total   ends. 


IS  reed;    30"   width  in   reed;   2S%"  finished   width 
76    X    S6Vi  over  all  finished  count. 


YARNS. 

Labor,  waste, 
twisting, 
„„  ,,     .  Cotton.  dyeing,  etc. 

60/1  Am.  combed:   1%     sta.;   12  hank  dou.   rov.,              22c.                       19V.C.                   =  4H4c. 

7G/1   Am.   combed;   1%"  sla. ;  17  hank  dou.    rov.,              22c.                       21c.                       =  43c 

40/2  Am.  combed;  1%"  sta.;     8  hank  dou.   rov.,              16i^c.                   2Si4c.                   =  44%c. 

COST. 

2,192  ends  00/1   Am.  combed  warp   +    5%   take-up =  .04R8    @    41%c.      =  $   .0190 

(0   picks   75/1    .\m.    combed   filling =   .0333    &    43c.           =  .0143 

16%    picks  40/2    Am.   combed   filling,    dyed =   .0295    (ii>    44%c.      =  .0132 

Weaving    "y .0522 

Expenses     ..."....'....'  !!!!.!!!..*.!!!!!  .0227 

f^eari-.g     0025 

Selhns::    (grey)     .0028 

Mill    cost    (grey^     $  .1267 

Selling     price    (about)     $.1500 

Bleaching,   finishing,    etc .0125 

-,            ,     ,  $  .1025 

Converter  s   expenses    .0200 

Cost    to    converter j   .1825 

Selling   price,    converter    (about) $     2400 

Selling    price,    jobber     (about) '    '"'  3000 

Selling   price,    retailer    .4«imi 

Yards  per  pound.    9.21    (grey)    before  shearing. 

Rpeded  4  ends  per  dent. 


1 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


205 


of  obtaining  the  weights  of  the  yam 
and  cloth  is  as  follows: 

2,192   ends   h-    (60/1    X    840)    =    .0436.   weleht 

of  warp    without   take-up. 
b'/o    average   take-up   In   warp. 
.0435    -H    .!*5    =    .0458,    total    weight   of    warp 

per    woven    yard. 
70  picks  X  30"  reed  width  X  3fi" 

— 1 =   2,100   yds. 

36" 

of    fine    filling    per    yard   of    cloth. 
2.100   -^    (75/1    X    840)    =   .0333,    total   weight 

of    fine    filling    per    yard    of    cloth. 
16.5  picks  X  30"  reed  width  X  36" 

=    495   yds. 

36" 

of   heavv    filling   per   yard    of   cloth. 
495    -^    (40/2    X    840)    =    .0295,    total    weight 

of  heavv    filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 
045S   -I-    .0333    +   .0295    =   .1086,    total  weight 

per    yard. 
1.0000    -^    .1086    =    9.21   yards   per   pound,   be- 
fore  shearing. 


FANCY  LENO  STRIPE 

Leno  fabrics  are  ones  which  are 
more  or  less  open,  and  are  used  for 
different  purposes.  They  have  been 
used  quite  extensively  in  the  past,  but 
for  five  years  or  so,  there  has  been  lit- 
tle call  for  cloths  of  this  character. 
The  past  season  has  seen  an  increas- 
ing demand  for  these  fabrics,  and 
there  have  been  produced  many  varia- 
tions of  this  weave.  At  present  the 
weave  is  used  for  narrow  stripes  on 
men's  shirtings  and  ladies'  waistings, 
in  check  effects  for  waistings,  in  plain 
all-over  leno  for  overdresses  and  many 
other  combinations  in  various  fabrics. 

The  weave  is  made  by  having  ends 
twist  around  one  or  more  other  ends, 
thus  giving  in  some  cases  a  wave  ef- 
fect, or  in  the  cloth  we  are  consider- 
ing 

AN  OPENWORK  EFFECT. 

The  twisting  of  the  ends  is  made  pos- 
sible by  an  arrangement  on  the  loom 
which  permits  the  leno  or  crossing  end 
10  pass  from  one  side  to  the  other  of 
the  ground  end  or  ends,  as  the  case 
may  be.  Because  of  this  crossing  back 
and  forth,  the  loom  is  run  at  a  speed 
son-ewhat  slower  than  on  ordinary 
work.  To  make  this  crossing  possible, 
the  crossing  end  or  leno  end  is  run 
through  a  doup  which  is  attached  to  a 
harness  on  which  there  are  no  heddles. 
These  doups,  which  are  usually  made 
of  good  hard-twisted  worsted  yarn,  are 
passed   through  the   eye  in   a   second 


harness.  By  raising  a  back  harness 
this  slips  the  doup  up  through  the  eye 
to  make  the  crossing  on  one  side  of 
the  ground  ends,  and  by  raising  the 
harness  and  doup  both,  it  makes  a 
crossing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
ground  end  or  ends.  This  is  the  sim- 
plest leno  weave  which  is  produced, 
and  it  is  called 

GAUZE. 

It  is  composed  by  having  two  ends 
which  cross  each  other  at  every  pick, 
and  from  this  foundation  idea  many 
beautiful  effects  in  weave  and  color 
are  produced,  for  there  are  leno  mo 
tions  which  are  attached  to  jacquard 
looms  also,  giving  a  leno  weave  in  a 
jacquard  pattern  all  over  the  cloth. 

Because  these  doups  wear  out,  thus 
requiring  much  care  in  some  cases, 
fewer  looms  are  given  a  weaver  to  run 
and  this,  of  course,  makes  the  weaving 
price  high  for  this  kind  of  cloth.  It 
is  to  be  noticed  that  we  have  allowed 
2  looms  to  a  weaver,  although  in  some 
mills  more  are  given  than  this  on  a 
fabric  similar  to  the  one  we  have  an- 
alyzed. In  these  fabrics  the  amount 
of  yarn  used  is  rather  small — in  the 
cloth  we  are  considering  less  than  2^/2 
cents  of  the  total  8  cents  grey  cost— so 
any  amount  saved  would  naturally  be 
taken  off  the  labor  cost,  and  in  these 
classes  of  fabrics  it  is  the  produc- 
tion and  economy  in  labor  that  make 
the  largest  reduction  in  the  fabric 
costs. 

On  our  drawing-in  draft  it  will  be 
noticed  that  we  have  marked  some 
dents  with  ciphers,  and  this  means 
that  no  ends  are  drawn  in,  or  rather 
needed,  in  these  dents,  and  the  reason 
why  the  ends  do  not  all  slip  together 
when  woven  is  because  of  the  twist 
given  by  the  leno  weave.  The  filling  on 
a  fabric  of  this  character  is  nearly 
straight,  so  that  the  finished  width 
and  grey  width  are  identical  in  many 
cases,  and  sometimes  the  finished 
width  is  wider  than  the  grey  width. 

To  obtain  the  result  wanted  some- 
times means  a  lot  of  experimenting  at 
the  mill,  because  in  many  cases  the 
cloth  is  wanted  at  a  certain  price,  and 
until  some  of  the  cloth  is  woven,  it  is 
very  hard  to  tell  just  how  the  fabric 
will  look,  as  the  size  of  the  yarn  and 


206 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


the  kind  of  reed  used  and  also  the 
numher  of  picks  affect  the  looks  of  the 
cloth  to  a  certain  extent. 

NOT  CONSIDERING  THE  PRICE. 

Some  of  these  cloths  are  being  made 
to-day  by  mills  which  have  never  be- 
fore attempted  to  make  them,  and  we 
would  say  that  if  they  did  consider 
the  cost  of  making  they  would  be  more 


der  for  this  grade  of  cloth),  they  "Will 
surely  wish  they  had  never  touched  it 
at  the  price.  This  point  should  be 
carefully  considered  by  mill  treasur- 
ers, and  before  a  new  cloth  is  sold, 
some  idea  of  the  cost  to  make  should 
be  obtained,  for,  in  many  cases,  a  mill 
treasurer  is  as  much  at  sea  regarding 
the  cost  to  make  as  a  buyer  is. 

The  take-up  on  the  leno  ends  in  this 


Leno  Overdress   Fabric. 


careful  of  the  price  at  which  they  sold. 
We  have  personally  seen  leno  cloths 
within  a  very  short  time  which  were 
sold  by  the  mills  at  5i  cents  per  yard 
which  surely  could  not  be  produced  at 
anywhere  near  this  figure.  The  mills 
which  sold  them  had  never  had  much 
experience  in  making  leno  cloths,  and 
we  should  say  that,  before  the  order 
is  completed  (it  is  a  rather  large  or- 


cloth  is  rather  small,  but  in  many 
cases  of  ordinary  leno  work  the  take- 
up  will  be  from  25  to  40  per  cent,  and 
in  a  Russian  cord  the  take-up  will  be 
about  75  to  80  per  cent,  or  in  other 
words,  for  1  inch  of  cloth  5  inches  of 
yarn  will  be  required  for  the  crossing 
or  leno  end.  These  Russian  cords 
which  are  just  ordinary  leno,  are  be 
ing  used  very  extensively  as  stripes  in 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


907 


fast  colors  In  men's  shirting  material. 


Draft  and  Chain. 
A  pattern  is  laid  out  for  a  leno  such 


as  we  are  considering,  as  if  it  were 
plain  weave  instead  of  openwork 
stripes.  By  comparison  of  the  plain 
stripes  and  leno  we  find  that  a  44  reed 
was  used,  and  by  pulling  out  some  fill- 
ing we  make  the  reed  width  29^ 
inches. 

44  reed  X  29%  inches  =  1.2S7  dents  total. 
1,2S7    —    12    selvages    =    1,275    dents    Inside 

selvages. 
1,275    -T-    42   In   a   repeat    =    30   repeats    4-    15 

dents. 

To  find  the  place  to  start  our  draw- 
ing-in  draft  so  that  the  pattern  will 
perfectly  balance,  we  will  proceed  as 
follows:  Add  the  nuirber  of  dents  in 
the  wide  stripe  and  the  nun:ber  of 
dents  left  over,  and  divide  by  two; 
this  gives  the  nun:ber  of  dents  to  start 
the  drawing-in  draft  ahead  of  the 
double  stripe. 

29    +    15   =   44. 

44    -H   2   =   22   dents  to  start   ahead  of  stripe. 

If  we  consider  the  cloth  we  will 
find  that  a  leno  is  next  the  selvage 
so  instead  of  using  22  dents  to  start 
we  will  use  21  dents,  which  will  bring 
a  leno  next  the  selvage.  This  is  done 
because  some  dents  are  skipped,  as  we 
stated  above,  in  our  reed,  and  if  we 
leave  out  one  dent  on  each  side,  we 
will  have  30  repeats  plus  13  dents, 
w^hich  is  the  w-'^^y  we  have  laid  out  our 
drawing-in  draft.     By 

EXAMINING  THE  DRAFT 

carefully  it  will  be  noticed  that  the 
two  leno  ends  are  crossed  on  the  draft, 
and  this  shows  to  the  girls  who  draw 
in  the  warps  that  one  end  is  to  be 
crossed  over  and  drawn  into  the  doup. 
In  figuring  the  yards  per  pound  we 
will  proceed  as  follows: 

1,008   ends  -^    (840    X    SO)   =   .0200.  weight  of 

60/1  In  1  vard  of  cloth  without  take-up. 
.0200    H-    .96  "=    .0208,    weight    of    60/1    in    1 

vard   of    cloth    with    take-up. 
608   ends   -4-    (840    X    30)    =   .0241,    weight   of 

60/2    without    take-up. 
.0241    -i-    .88    =    .0274.    weight    of    60/2    in    1 

yard  of  cloth  with  take-up. 

.-.fi  picks  X  29 1^"  X  36 

—  =  1.638  yard.s  of  fUling 

36  in    1    yard    of    cloth. 

1.638   -!-    (840    X    90)    =   .0217,   weight  of  90/1 

In  1  yard  of  cloth. 
.0208    +   .0274    +    .0217    =   .0699,   total   weight 

of  1  yard  of  cloth. 
1.0000   -f-   .0699  =   14.31  yards  per  pound. 

The    count    we    have    given    is    the 


208 


A   COTTON    FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


over-all  count,  because  of  the  fact  that 
so  many  dents  are  skipped  In  our 
reeding-in  plan.  The  ends  in  the 
crowded  stripes  are  drawn  in  two-pl>, 
as  may  be  seen  from  our  pattern  plan. 
It  will  also  be  noticed  that  the  picks 
are  placed  in  the  cloth  2  in  a  shed. 
This  is  probably  done  because  it 
would  be  impossible  to  weave  a  cloth 
with  54  picks  per  inch  and  have  the 
leno  change  every  pick.  In  other 
words,  there  would  be  so  many  cross- 
ing places  that  the  cloth  would  not 
hold  that  number  of  picks.  Of  course, 
more  picks  could  be  put  into  the  cloth 
if  a  finer  yarn  was  used  for  the  60-2, 
but  with  60-2  warp  the  picks  seldom 
run  higher  than  34  or  36  per  inch,  if 
the  leno  ends  change  every  pick.  The 
cloth  is  woven  with  doups,  which  are 
tied  to  the  bottom  of  the  loose  harness 
and  are,   therefore,  called 

BOTTOM  DOUPS. 
On  harness  No.  2  is  an  arrangement 
whereby  harness  No.  1  is  raised  when 
No.  2  raises.  This  is  necessary,  be- 
cause the  doup  passes  through  the 
heddle  eye  on  harness  No.  2,  and  if 
No.  1  harness  did  not  raise  at  the 
same  time  No.  2  did,  it  would  either 
break  the  doups  or  keep  No.  2  harness 


from  lifting.  In  some  places  these  two 
harnesses  are  not  hitched  together, 
and  in  this  case,  harness  No.  1  would 
have  to  be  lifted  continually  on  our 
head  chain.  In  either  case,  the  result 
is  the  same,  for  on  the  loom  our  har- 
ness No.  1  lifts  continually,  although 
the  chain  does  not  show  it. 

Over  No.  7  harness  we  have  marked 
the  word  "juirper".  This  is  an  ar- 
rangement put  on  the  loom  which 
raises  this  harness  part  way  up.  This 
is  done  to  straighten  out  the  doups  as 
it  slips  them  back  through  the  heddle 
eye  and  stops  them  snarling  up.  This 
arrangement  is  used  for  a  double  lift 
dobby,  for  on  a  single  lift  loom  where 
all  the  harnesses  co;re  to  a  bottom 
shed  the  doups  naturally  slip  b:ck  into 
place,  and  this  arrangement  is  not 
necessary.  We  have  also  marked  the 
word  "slackener"  over  some  pegs  in 
the  harness  chain.  These  pegs  are 
usually  placed  behind  the  regular  har- 
ness chain  on  a  harness  which  is  not 
being  used,  and  the  purpose  is  this: 
When  the  leno  or  crossing  threads  are 
in  a  crossed  position  they  twist 
around  the  ground  threads,  and  unless 
some  provision  is  made  to  let  off  a  lit- 
tle extra  yarn  at  this  time,  the  ground 


1.ENO  OVERDRESS. 
PATTERN. 


2 

2 

2 

1      ^ 

12 

12 

8 

4 

8 

4 

8 

1    12 

1 

60/1    American   combed. 
60/2    American   combed. 

30  X 
aO/1   American  combed   filling.     E6   picks. 

^4  reed;    29%"   width   in  reed;    28"   grey   width;    28'   finished   width, 
over  all).     57    X   54    (finished  count  over   all). 


1,008  beam  1 
608   beam  2 


1,616        total 

ends. 

j6    (grey    count 


YARNS. 


60/1  Am.  combed,  1%"  sta. ;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 
611/2  Am.  combed.  1%"  sta.;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 
90/1  Am.  combed,  1%"  sta.;  20  hank  dou.  rov., 


Cotton. 
26c. 
26c. 
26c. 


Labor, 
waste. 
ISc. 
ISc. 


Twisting. 


COST. 

1,008   ends,    60/1   American   combed +      i%  take-up   =   .0208    @    44c. 

608  ends,    60/2   American   combed -f-    12%   take-up   =  .0274    @    48c. 

56   picks,    90/1    American   combed =   .0217    @    50%c. 

Weaving,   14.=;  speed,   75%   production,   2  looms,   $11.50  wage 

Expenses,    $2.50    per    loom 


Selling    2%. 


Grey    cost 

Bleaching,    finishing,    etc. 


Finished     cost. 

Tards  per  pound  =  14.31. 
Harness  to  weave  =   8. 
■detail  price,  25c.  per  yard. 


44c. 
48c. 
SOMiC. 


$  .0092 
.0132 
.0110 
.0317 
.0137 

$  .0788 
.0016 

$  .0804 
.0100 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


209 


ends  are  liable  to  be  broken.  The  ends 
which  are  drawn  in  on  harness  No.  8 
are  the  ones  which  are  d.'awn  throug.i 
the  loop  on  harness  No.  1. 


JACQUARD  SILK  WARP 
EOLIENNE 

These  cloths  were  quite  popular 
about  ten  years  ago  and  since  then 
have  had  a  regular  sale,  but  during 
the  past  two  years  the  nunber  of 
yards  sold  has  teen  largely  increased 
and  there  are  many  new  patterns  and 
constructions  beiig  prod.iced  to-d3y. 
The  better  colors,  and  the  fact  that 
the  cotton  can  be  dyed  one  color  and 
the  silk  another  has  helped  increase 
the  sales  to  a  certain  extent. 

Sometimes  it  requires  a  little  ex- 
perimenting to  get  the  construction 
what  it  should  be  for  the  different 
counts  in  the  warp  and  filling.  The 
one  we  are  considering  is  a  reg::lar 
one,  tha:  is,  124x5?  in  the  grey  count 
with  40-2  combed  filling.  The  filling 
used  in  these  cloths  is  al  r.ost  always 
combed  yarn  and  also  hard  twisted, 
although  in  many  cases  it  is  not  so 
hard  twisted  as  it  would  be  for  a  voile 
cloth. 

The  silk  warps  used  in  the  making 
of  these  cloths  vary  in  the  different 
mills,  being  gauged  in  most  cases  by 
the  size  of  yarn  w^hich  they  can  best 
run,  but  it  is  practically  always 

ITALIAN  SILK, 
and  runs  from  20-22  to  24-26  in  size 
in  most  cases.  These  silk  warps,  one 
would  naturally  think,  would  create 
some  trouble  in  a  cotton  mill,  but 
after  the  help  becomes  used  to  the 
work  a  warp  can  be  started  up  in 
fully  as  short  a  time  as  a  whole  cot- 
ton warp.  In  the  loom.s  the  work  is 
liable  to  create  some  trouble  if  the 
heddle  eyes  have  some  shirp  places, 
as  they  cut  the  yarn  easily,  and  a'sj 
on  jacquard  work,  if  the  harness 
threads  are  worn,  they  are  likely  to 
catch  the  light  silk  threads  an  J  oreak 
or  cut  them.  These  c'oths  are  nadt. 
In  quite  large  quantities  with  hard 
twist  worsted  filling,  but,  of  course, 
cost  more  than  the  cotton  filling  va- 


rieties, although  the  v.  orsted  yan 
gives  them  a  drape  which  cotton  never 
gives.  Cotton  yarn  gi\es  possibly  a 
smootlier  cloth  and  shows  up  the  silk 
som.ewhat  better.  These  cloths  are 
being  made  with  silk  stripes  added, 
and  because  of  the  extra  silk  required, 
the  cost  is  higher. 

It  nay  be  asked  by  some  the  differ- 
ence between  these  eolienne  cloths 
and  crepe  clotlis,  as  they  both  have 
silk  warps  and  the  count  is  somew'hat 
sinilar  in  many  cases.  One  difference, 
which  does  not  always  hold  true,  is 
that  the  crepe  has  single  tiling  and 
the  eolienne  h:s  two-ply  filling,  al- 
though tney  are  both  hard  twisted.  In 
many  cases,  the  crepe  is  woven  on  a 
box  loom  and  is  called  a  crepe  de 
chine,  w-hile  in  others  it  is  not  woven 
on  a  box  loom  and  is  called  serpen 
tine   crepe,   but 

THE   :\IAIN   DIFFERENCE 

is  usually  created  by  the  finishing 
process,  because  in  a  crepe  cloth  the 
shrinkage  may  be  as  high  as  33  per 
cent,  V,  hile  in  an  eolienne  the  cloih  is 
finished  out  nearly  to  its  grey  width. 
This  can  be  easily  seen  by  looking 
at  the  two  different  cloths,  as  in  a 
crepe  the  filling  is  all  full  of  curves 
and  crinkles,  while  in  an  eolienne  the 
filling  is  as  straight  as  finishing  can 
make  it  without  spoiling  the  cloth. 

One  thing  which  helps  in  the  weav- 
ing of  these  cloths  is  that  the  silk 
used  is  practically  always  in  the  raw 
state,  and  does  not  look  at  all  like 
it  does  when  finished,  but  is  full  of 
gum,  and  this  gum  sticks  the  fibres 
together  and  keeps  them  from  rub- 
bing to  pieces  in  the  loom  and  is  re- 
moved in  the  finis'iing  process,  and 
then  the  gloss  appears  on  the  silk 
threads.  Care  has  to  be  given  to  the 
weaving  of  these  cloths,  because  there 
are  many  things  which  will  show 
when  finished  which  on  a  cotton  cloth 
would  never  appear.  Possibly,  one 
thing  shows  more  than  anything 
else  and  this  is  when  a  reed  is  a  trifle 
bent  in  some  places.  In  this  way.  a 
few  ends  are  crowded,  rnd  thsn  there 
is  a  small  space  where  they  are  light- 
er, and  in  fnishing  these  cloths  it  is 
very  hard,  almost  impossible,  to  make 
these    threads    slide    in    even     again 


210 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAKi 


This  does  not  make  much  difference 
in  a 

PIECE-DYED  FABRIC 
where  one  color  is  used,  but  where 
the  cloth  is  cross-dyed  it  shows  up 
this  condition  very  plainly,  because 
the  warp  shows  more  in  one  place  and 
the  filling  shows  plainly  next  to  it. 
The  cloth  in  hand  shows  this  condi- 
tion, while  the  solid  colors  show 
practically  no  streaks  of  any  descrip- 
tion. 

These  cloths  are  laid  out  in  the  reg- 
ular manner  used  for  cotton  jacquard 
work,  and  we  will  work  out  the  cloth 
by  successive  steps.  The  first  thing 
to  do  is  to  find  the  size  of  warp  and 
filling  which  is  used.  This  is  easy 
enough  in  the  filling,  but  the  warp  has 


which  In  this  case  is  126  times  53.  As 
these  cloths  come  in  about  |  inch  in 
weaving  and  h  inch  in  finishing,  and 
as  the  finished  width  is  25|  inches,  we 
next  find  the  reed  count  and  reed 
used. 


25.5   finished  width,    26.75   reed  width    :    :    X 

:   1:;6   =   120  reed  count. 
120    H-   2    =    60   reed  to   be  used. 

Then  we  have: 

60    X    20%    reed    width    =    1,604    total    dents. 
1.604   —  44   for  selvages   =   1,560   cloth  dents 

inside   selvages. 
1.560    X    2    =    3,120    +    176    selvages   =    3,296 

total   ends. 

The  probabilities  are  that  as  long  as 
the  pattern  finished  is  about  3  3-16 
inches  wide,  it  was  3  1-3  inches  wide 


Jacquard  Silk  Warp   Eolienne. 


lost  quite  a  little  because  of  the  gum 
being  boiled  out  of  the  silk,  and  it 
requires  not  only  fine  balances,  but 
also  a  knowledge  of  the  amount  of 
gum  in  the  silk,  and  care  in  the  sizing 
of  the  silk,  for  it  is  very  liable  to 
split  up  in  pulling  out  the  threads.  It 
also  requires 

A  GENERAL  KNOWLEDGE 

of  the  silk  sizes  used  by  cotton  mills 
in  the  making  of  these  cloths.  We 
find  the  size  of  the  warp  to  be  20-22 
vhen  used  and  the  filling  about  40-2. 
We    next   find   the    finished    count, 


in  the  reed,  as  we  can  figure  out  for 
ourselves.  From  the  whole  layout  of 
the  cloth  it  appears  to  have  been  m.ade 
on  a  400  machine  which  was  tied  up 
120  per  inch  in  the  comber  board. 
This  makes  our  machine  laid  out  as 
follows: 


400    machine    ■ 
in   1   repeat. 


120   per   inch    =    3%    inches 


It  will  then  be  seen  that  in  this 
cloth  the  entire  machine  has  been 
used,  that  is,  ends  are  drawn  into  all 
the  heddle  eyes,  and  there  is  no  cast 
out.   This  is  done  in  most  cotton  mills 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


2U 


making  these  cloths,  for  very  few 
mills  except  silk  mills  have  machines 
tied  up  to  more  than  120  per  inch, 
that  is,  in  the  ordinary  cotton  mills 
which  produce  shirting  materials.  The 

NUMBER   OF  REPEATS 
of  the  pattern  is  then  found. 


3.120    ends   -+-    400 


7   repeats    +    320   ends. 


By  referring  to  the  following  small 
sketch  it  can  be  seen  in  which  sec- 
tions of  the  tie-up  the  ends  are  used. 
We  will  consider  that  the  width  tied 
up  is  40  inches,  as  this  is  a  usual 
width  in  cotton  mills.  This  makes  12 
sections  or  12  harnesses  attached  to 
one  hook. 


and  instructions  for  drawing-ln  would 
be  given  as  follows:  Start  to  draw  on 
hook  No.  1,  row  No.  6,  section  No.  3. 
Finish  drawing  on  hook  No.  8,  row 
No.  45,  section  No.  10.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  8  hooks  are  used  in  a 
row,  as  a  400  machine  has  usually  this 
number  of  hooks  placed  in  a  row,  and 
there  are  50  rows  in  the  machine.  To 
lay  out  our  pattern  we  will  consider 
our  cloth  sketch  as  made,  and  the  first 
thing  to  do  is  to  find  the  paper  to 
use.  As  the  hooks  are  tied  8  in  a  row, 
the  paper  will  be  in  8  squares  in  the 
warp,  and  to  find  the  filling  squares 
we  will  figure  thus: 


126    :   53    : 


3%   or  8    X    3  paper. 


.40   Inches  wide    -4-3%    inches  in   1   repeat   =    12   repeats  or  sections. 

2      I        3        I        4     I        5     1        6      1        7      1        8      1        9      I        10     I        11   I        12 


It  can  thus  be  seen  that  in  sections 
4,  5,  6,  7,  8  and  9  there  are  400  ends 
or  all  the  heddles  used,  and  that  in 
sections  No.  3  and  No.  10  there  are 
only  360  ends  used.  By  laying  the  pat- 
ern  out  as  above,  it  will  be  seen  that 
it  is  exactly  in  the  center  of  the  tie- 
up  and   this  helps  in  the  running  of 


But  possibly  in  a  cloth  like  this  it 
would  be  better  to  use  an  8x4  paper, 
but  in  any  case,  with  a  count  as  high 
in  the  warp  and  as  low  in  the  filling, 
it  is  to  a  great  extent 

A   MATTER   OF   EXPERIMENT 

ind  experience  to  get  the  effects   to 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

20/22  Italian  silk  warp.         44        3,120        44        =      3,296  total  ends. 
40/2  American  combed  hard  twist  filUng.    56   picks. 

60  reed,    26%"  width   in  reed,   26"  grey  width,   25%"  finished   width.      123    X    56   grey  count. 
126    X    53  finished  count. 

TARNS. 
20/22  Italian  silk;   205,000  yards  per  pound;   on  beams   =    $4.75. 

Labor, 
Cotton.         waste.      Twisting. 
40/2  American  combed;  1%"  staple;   8  hank  dou.  rov.,      21c.  lOVic.  4c.      =      35%c. 

COST. 

3,296  ends,   20/22  Italian  silk    +   S%   take-up =   .0175    @    $4.75      =    $  .0831 

56   picks,    40/2    American   comber  hard   twist =   .0908    @    .35%      =        .0322 

Weaving     .0159 

Expenses     .013^ 

Jacquard    cards    .0005 

$  .1455 
Selling,    2% .0029 

Cost    grey $  .1484 

Dyeing   and    finishing .0250 

Cost    finished $  .1734 

Yards  per  pound,  9.23. 

Cost  at  retail,   38c.   per  yard. 

the  work.  The  pattern  to  be  used  come  out  right  in  these  cloths.  There 
w(  uld  he  balanced  up  and  placed  on  are  so  few  picks,  comparatively  speak- 
the     design     paper,     and     the    layout      Ing,    that    the    floats    cannot    be    very 


212 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


long,  in  any  case,  in  the  warp.  It  is 
to  be  noticed  that  on  the  snail  slots 
a  pick  of  filling  is  allowed  to  float  on 
the  top  and  botto.n  of  the  spot  to 
make  the  figure  rounder  and  to  hold 
down  the  warp  better.  This  is  a  gen- 
eral practice  on  these  cloths  with 
small  ground  spots,  as  it  makes  a 
more  even  looking  cloth  and  figure. 
To  get  the  number  of  squares  in  the 
height  of  the  design,  it  is  better  where 
the  picks  are  as  low  as  in  this  cloth, 
to  find  the  height  of  the  pattern  and 
multiply   by   the   picks   per    inch,   and 

THIS  RESULT 

should  be  divided  by  the  picks  in  a 
square,  and  in  this  way,  a  more  ac- 
curate result  is  obtained  in  the  num- 
ber of  squares  to  be  used,  thus: 

53   picks   finished    X    3%    Inches  =   about   200 

picks    in    a    repeat. 
200    -H    3    =    66    squares   about,    or   If   8    X    4 

paper. 

was  used  we  would  have 

200    -4-    4    =    50    squares    In    the    filling. 

In  the  warp  we  would  have 

400    -^    8    =    50   squares   in   the   warp. 

To  find  the  weight  of  the  warp  and 
filling  and  from  these  the  yards  per 
pound,  and  then  th:,  cost,  is  a  rather 
simple  proceeding.  The  yards  per 
pound  in  the  silk  warp  will  vary,  but 
we  have  taken  a  low  enough  number 
of  yards  to  be  on  the  safe  side  in 
figuring.  To  obtain  the  output  of  the 
warp,  we  figure  as  follows: 

3,296   ends   -i-    205,000   yards   =   .0160,    weight 

of  warp   without  take-up. 
.0160    -^    .92    —    .0175,    weight   of    warp    In    1 

yard    of    cloth. 

We  have  used  8  per  cent  for  take- 
up  in  weaving. 

The  weight  of  the  filling  is  obtained 
thus : 


1.498 


50  picks  X  26%"  reed  width  X  36" 

36 

yards    of    filling. 
1,498    -V-    16,500    =   .0908,    weight   of   filling   in 
1    yard    of    cloth. 

We  have  used  this  number  of  yards 
for  40-2,  because  in  twisting  it  con- 
tracts somewhat. 


.0175    +    .0908    =   .1083,    weight  of   1  yard   of 

Cloth. 
1.0000   -H   .1083   =   9.23  yards  per  pound. 

The  cloth  is  lighter  than  this  when 
sold    for 

THREE  REASONS: 
First,  because  of  finishing  and  iron- 
ing the  yarns  are  som.ewhat  finer,  al- 
though this  makes  only  a  s.nall  dif- 
ference in  weight;  second,  because 
the  silk  loses  the  largest  shire  of  the 
gum  it  contained  in  finishing;  third, 
because  in  finishing  the  cloth  is 
stretched  about  5  per  cent,  and  this 
not  only  makes  less  picks  per  inch, 
but  stretches  out  some  of  the  take-up 
of   the   warp  in  weaving. 


FAST  COLOR  SOIESETTE 
SHIRTING 

The  nam,e  soiesette  is  copyrighted 
and  is  used  by  Clarence  Whitman  & 
Con:pany  on  the  line  of  cloths  which 
is  produced  by  them.  These  cloths  are 
made  in  varied  styles  and  construc- 
tions and  have  had  a  large  sale.  It 
must  not  be  thought  that  the  cloths 
produced  by  this  concern  are  the  only 
ones  which  can  be  bought  in  thesu 
lines,  for  many  mills  n^ake  similar 
fabrics  which  have  had  a  large  sale, 
and  although  the  nam.e  soiesette  can- 
not be  used  by  others,  the  construc- 
tions and  ideas  can  and  are.  Buyers 
ask  for  a  soiesette  construction  and 
all  they  really  mean  is  that  it  is  a  soft 
twist  filing  fabric  with  a  construction 
such  that  it  will  take  mercerization 
well.  The  name  soiesette  has  lost  to 
a  certain  extent  its  connection  with 
fabrics  produced  by  any  certain  house, 
and  the  trade  in  general  uses  the 
name  when  speaking  of  a  certain 

CLOTH   CONSTRUCTION 

and  not  the  production  of  any  one  cer- 
tain house.  Thus,  the  ideas  have  been 
absorbed  for  the  good  of  the  trade. 
In  our  analysis  we  find  the  warp  which 
was  used  was  85-1  and  the  filling  was 
43-1.  We  have  used  Egyptim  cot- 
ton for  filling,  but  it  is  also  possible 
to  use  American. 

The   cloth   we  are  considering  is  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


213 


fair  example  of  the  many  lines  of 
shirtings  which  are  being  sold  at  pres- 
ent. It  is  to  be  noted  that  even  though 
the  price  of  this  cloth  is  30  cents  in 
the  stores,  many  shirts  are  being  sold 
with  cloth  of  this  quality  at  about 
$1.50,  and  these  shirts  are  better  than 
have  been  sold  previously.  The  quality 
of  men's  shirtings  and  ladies'  waist- 
ings  has  iirproved  very  much  during 
the  past  five  years,  this  i  improvement 
being  due  in  a  great  measure  to  the 
improvements  in  finishing  cloth,  and 
also  to  the  dyeing  of  yarn  and  cloth 
which  is  also  sho\\ing  large  improve- 
ment.    The    quality   of   yarn   entering 


of  the  warp  and  soft  twist  grey  or  un- 
bleached filling,  and  when  the  cloth 
is  woven  it  is  bleached  which,  of 
course,  makes  the  grey  yarn  white, 
but  does  not  affect  the  dyed  yarn,  and 
then  it  is  mercerized  which  gives  the 
filling  a  sheen  which  makes  the  cloth 
n:ore  desirable.  It  can  be  seen  that 
by  using  grey  soft  twist  filling  a  bet- 
ter mercerized  finish  will  result,  be- 
cause in  the  mercerizing  process  a 
soft  twist  yarn  mercerizes  better  and, 
of  course,  grey  yarn  which  is  not  han- 
dled can  be  used  softer  twisted  than 
bleached  yarn.  The  process  of  mer- 
cerizing  cloth    consists    of   immersion 


"ast  Color  Soiesette  Shirting. 


into  cloth  is  to-day  better  than  ever, 
and  this  may  be  due  partly  to  the 
larger  competition  in  these  lines  of 
fabrics  and  also  to  the  fact  that  even 
yarn  makes  a  large  difference  in  the 
finish  of  a  piece  of  goods  as  fnished 
to-day.  Possibly  the  fact  that  in  most 
all  colored  lines  where  dyed  and 
bleached  yarn  was  used  the  cloth  did 
not  take  a  mercerized  finish  because 
of  harder  twist  in  the  filling  to  facili- 
tate handling,  made  the  cloth  sor.e- 
what  less  desirable  than  at  present. 
The  fact  is  thit  yarn  can  be  dyed  fast 
colors  which  will  stand  bleaching. 
and  ihat  then  a  cloth  can  be  n:ade  up 
as  a  regular  colored  shirting  using 
grey  or  unbleached  yarn  for  the  rest 


in  caustic  soda  and  at  the  same  time 
keeping  the  tension  as  much  as  pos- 
sible on  the  filling  or  cloth  width.  If 
the  tension  was  not  much,  the  cloth 
when  passed  into  the  liquid  would 
shrink  and  there  would  be  no  luster, 
and  the  reason  the  tension  is  placed 
on  the  filling  in  this  particular  in- 
stance is  because  the  filling  is  made 
soft  twisted,  and  this  takes  the  finish 
better  than  the  warp.  In  some  lines  of 
fabrics  the  tension  is  placed  on  the 
warp,  especially  such  cloths  as  mer- 
cerized poplins.  The  reason  this  is 
done  is  because  the  warp  is  made  of 
two-ply  soft  twist  yarn.  Almost  all 
cloths  which  are  mercerized  are  m.er- 
cerized  in  the  filling,  because  there  are 


214 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


comparatively  few  cloths  on  which 
two-ply  soft  twist  warp  is  used,  while 
there  are  many  fabrics  which  have 
medium  or  soft  twist  filling. 
ONE  FEATURE 
which  appears  in  this  cloth  is  not  no- 
ticeable with  other  colors  of  dyed 
yarn.  With  an  ordinary  magnifying 
glass  may  be  seen  what  are  called 
black  hairs,  which  project  off  the 
black,  fast-colored  yarn.  In  many 
cases  this  black  yarn  has  n'ade  mucla 
trouble  for  the  mills  in  cloth  rejec- 
tions, for  in  some  cases  the  cloth  will 
be  full  of  these  hairs  alongside  the 
black  yarn,  although  in  this  cloth  the 
amount  of  these  hairs  is  about  as 
small  as  possible.  For  the  above  rea- 
son, mills  have  been  forced  to  use  as 
good  black  yarn  as  is  possible  in  this 
class  of  fabric,  and  in  many  cases  it 
has  been  necessary  to  use  fine  two-ply 
yarn  wherever  a  black  color  was  used. 
It  has  been  a  practice  to  use  black 
combed  yarn  for  stripes  in  carded  col- 
ored yarn  shirtings,  for  these  black 
hairs,  which,  of  course,  are  more 
prominent  in  carded  yarn,  would  in 
many  cases  spoil  the  fabric.  With  me- 
dium dark  colors  this  effect  is  not 
noticeable,  although  these  hairs  are 
present,  but  because  of  their  fineness 
and  because  they  do  not  so  strongly 
contrast  with  the  white  ground,  they 
are  not  noticeable  to  any  extent,  and 
certainly  not  enough  to  hurt  the  gen- 
eral appearance  of  the  cloth  in  most 
cases. 

One  thing  which  hurts  the  wearing 
qualities  of  most  all  shirtings  is  the 
presence  of  hard  cords  in  the  pat- 
tern. When  the  cloth  is  ironed  there 
is  a  tendency  to  cut  the  filling,  and  this 
soon  makes  the  cloth  split  on  the 
cords  and  so  renders  a  shirt  useless 
before  it  is  actually  worn  anywhere. 
We  do  not  think  the  above  will  make 
any  difference  in  the  amount  of  shirt- 
ings with  cords  which  are  made,  and 
we  hope  it  will  not,  because  it  is  a 
case  where  the  beauty  of  a  pattern  is 
much  better  with  the  addition  of  a  few 
cords  even  if  the  wearing  qualities  are 
lessened  to  a  certain  extent.  Shirtings 
In  many  cases  would  not  be  made  In 


attractive  patterns  if  It  were  not  for 
the 

TOUCH  OF  VARIETY 
which  is  added  by  the  addition  of  a 
few  cords.  Nearly  the  same  effect  is 
produced  by  very  narrow  satin  stripes 
and  the  wearing  qualities  of  a  s'.iirting 
with  satin  stripes  for  cords  is  largely 
improved. 

It  is  to  be  noticed  in  most  all 
soiesette  cloths  that  the  warp  is  usu 
ally  of  fine  yarn,  relatively  speaking, 
in  comparison  with  the  filing,  also 
that  the  count  is  somewhat  lower  in 
the  warp  than  in  the  filling.  These 
above  facts  are  brought  about  in  the 
construction  of  the  cloth  so  that  the 
finish  will  be  better  when  mercerized, 
and  another  fact  which  helps  in  this 
direction  is  soft  twist  in  the  filling, 
and  in  many  cases,  the  use  of  Egyp- 
tian cotton  which  possibly  takes  mer- 
cerization  somewhat  better  than  many 
grades   of  American    cotton. 

The  grey  counts  on  some  of  these 
cloths  are  as  follows:  64  times  72  with 
50-1  warp  and  30-1  filling,  68  times 
84  with  50-1  warp  and  35-1  filling,  72 
tin:es  96  with  60-1  or  70-1  warp  and 
40-1  filling,  and  there  are  many  vari- 
ations from  these  constructions  both 
in  yarn  and  count,  but  the  warp  is 
almost  always  m.ade  of  fine  yarn,  and 
the  filling  of  coarser 

SOFT   TWIST   FILLING. 

In  weaving  cloths  such  as  we  are 
considering  it  is  necessary  that  care 
be  exercised  by  the  fixers  or  else  the 
take-up  on  the  lighter  beams  is  liable 
to  be  large,  and  this  will  make  an  en- 
tirely different  looking  fabric,  and  in 
some  cases,  spoil  the  effect.  The 
above  is  not  so  likely  to  happen  if  sin- 
gle yarn  is  used,  but  when  two-ply  is 
used,  much  m.ore  care  is  necessary  as 
the  stiffness  of  the  yarn  is  liable  to 
help  make  loops  and  a  large  take-up. 
thereby  making  a  bad  looking  fabric 
in  many  cases.  Cloth  has  been  noticed 
in  the  stores  where  this  effect  has  ap- 
proached a  regular  seersucker  effect, 
and  then  when  more  tension  has  been 
applied,  the  defect  has  entirely  disap- 
peared in  the  cloth. 

THE   EXPENSE 
of  making  these  cloths  is  rather  high. 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


21& 


because  of  the  fact  that,  having  a  lilgh 
number  of  picks,  the  production  is 
rather  slow,  and  this  makes  the  weav- 
ing and  other  charges  greater.  The 
cost  of  finishing  this  sort  of  fabric  is 
not  large,  as  it  has  only  to  be  bleached 
when  woven  and  then  mercerized,  and 
it  is  much  easier  and  cheaper  to 
bleach  and  mercerize  cloth  than  it  is 
to  handle  yarn   in   the  same  manner. 

If  the  filling  is  made  well  on  these 
cloths,  the  result  is  likely  to  appear 
well,  as  the  filing  covers  up  to  a  cer- 
tain extent  the  warp  yarn,  although 
a  warp  as  fine  as  the  one  we  are  con- 
sidering has  to  be  good  yarn  to  stand 
the  beating  vp  of  so  many  picks. 

These  cloths  are  about  32  inches 
wide  finished,  and  as  they  shrink 
about  2  inches  in  finishing  and  Ig  to 
2  inches  in  weaving,  we  have  from 
the  finished  counts  of  72  in  the  warp 
the  following: 

32    :   35.75    :    :    X    :   72   =   about   64. 
64    -^    2    =    32    reed    to    be    used. 
32    X    35%    =   1.144    total   dents. 
1,144    —    16    selvages    =    1,128    dents    Inside 
selvages. 

By  comparison  we  find  the  cords  are 


reeded  1  In  a  dent,  while  all  the  other 
yarn  is  reeded  2  in  a  dent,  and  then 
by  laying  out  our  pattern  we  find  that 
there  are  60  dents  in  a  repeat  of  the 
pattern,  so  we  have: 

1,128    -4-    60   =    18   repeats    +    48   dents  over. 

In  balancing  up  this  pattern  we  find 
that  with  48  dents  over  we  will  have 
one  cord  next  the  selvage  on  one  side 
and  none  on  the  other,  so  to  make 
the  two  edges  exact  we  will  use  only 
47  dents  over  and  then  the  pattern 
will  balance  as  we  have  laid  out  in  our 

COST  ANALYSIS. 

The  picks  in  the  finished  cloth  av- 
erage about  92,  and  so  there  were 
probably  96  in  the  grey  cloth. 

The  yarn  is  drawn  in  on  four  har- 
nesses in  regular  order  just  as  if  it 
were  for  an  ordinary  plain  white 
warp,  but  when  the  warp  is  reeded  in 
the  cords  are  drawn  1  in  a  dent,  while 
the  other  yarn  is  reeded  2  in  a  dent. 
The  sizes  of  the  yarns  are  found  in  the 
usual  manner,  and  we  then  proceed  to 
find  the  weight  of  the  cloth. 

1,870    ends    -^    (S40    X     85)    =    .0262,    weight 

of   85/1    warp   without    take-up. 
.0262    -4-    .92    =    .0295,    weight    of   85/1    warp 


85/1    Am.    c'mb'd 
30/1    Am.    c'mb<l 

black     

16/2    Am.    c'mbd 


PATTERN. 

2 

j 

16 

31 

8 

8 

31 

6 

31 

8 

8 

311 

3 

2 

3 

3 

2 

3 

1 
1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

2 

2 

1 

21 
—I 
161  =  1,870 

I  =      152 
I  =      148 


3  X 


2,170 


18  X 
96   picks.    43/1    English   combed   soft   twist   filling.      32   reed,    35%"   width    In   reed;    34"   grey 
Width,  32"  finished  width;   68   X    96  grey  count  ground;   72    X    92  finished  count  ground. 


YARNS. 

o,.  „     .  Cotton. 

85/1   Am.    combed:  1«4"  sta. ;  17  hank  dou.  rov.,      2Sc. 

30/1   Am.   combed   b'k;    IM"  sta.;      6  hank  dou.  rov.,      21c. 
16/2    Am.    combed;    l'/,o"   .sta.;         3.25  hank  dou.  rov..      17i^c. 
43/1  Eng.   combed;   H4"  sta.;        10.5  hank  dou.  rov.,      26c. 

COST. 

1.870   ends.    S5/1    Am.    combed -f-  8%  take-up  =   .0295  @ 

152   ends.    30/1    Am.    combed +  10%  take-up  =   .0067  @ 

148   enil.s.    16/2    Am.    combed +  2%  take-up  =   .0224  @ 


Labor, 
waste. 
27c. 

9c. 

5MiC. 
13c. 


Dveing  8c. 
Twisting  2c. 


55c. 
38c. 

^^^^  ^      „*,   ^  26c 

96   picks,    43/1    Eng.    combed ..........'...".'.".  .'."."^  ."f.  =   !o950   @    39c 

Weaving    

Expenses     '.'.'.'.'.'. 


Selling    

Bleaching,    mercerizing,    etc. 


lards  per  pound,  6.61. 

Plain  weave. 

R«tall  prlc*.  lOc  p*r  rard. 


=  55c. 

=  38c. 

=  26c. 

=  39c. 


i  .0162 
.0026 
.0058 
.0371 
.0154 
.0201 

$  .0972 
.0020 

$  .0992 
.0150 

t  .1142 


216 


A   COTTON    FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


with    take-up. 
152   ends   -4-    (!S40    X    30)    =   .0060,    weight   of 

30/1    warp   without    take-up. 
0060    ^    .9    =    .0067,    weight    of    30/1    warp 

with    take-up. 
148    ends    h-    (840    X    8)    =    .0220,    weight  of 

16/2    warp    without    take-up. 
.0220    -;-    .98    =    .0224,    weight    of    16/2    warp 

with   take-up. 
96  X  35%   X36 

■ — —   =   3,432   yards  of   filling   in    1 

36  yard  of  cloth. 

3,432    -T-    (S40    X    43)    =   .0950,   weight  of  fill- 
ing   in    1    yard   of   cloth. 
.0295     -f     .0067     -I-     .0224     +     .0950     =     .1536. 

weight   of   1   yard  ot    cloth. 
1.0000   -i-   .1536    =    6.51   yards  per   pound. 

These  fabrics  look  well  as  long  as 
they  will  hold  together,  for  the  fibre 
has  undergone  a  change,  and  the  nice 
glossy  appearance  will  not  wash  out 
as   in   some  fabrics,   but 

THE    WEARING    VALUE 

of  these  cloths  does  not  compare  with 
a  well  mercerized  two-ply  warp  pop- 
lin, although,  of  course,  both  cloths 
have  individual  uses  where  the  other 
cannot  be  used.  The  weaving  cost  is 
rather  high  on  these  cloths,  becaus? 
of  the  high  number  of  picks.  This 
cloth,  as  made  in  most  cases,  has  104 
■picks  in  the  grey,  but  the  piece  Wo 
have  analyzed  has  only  92  picks  fin- 
ished, so  the  grey  count  probably  was 
not  over  96.  If  this  cloth  was  mads 
with  104  picks,  the  cost  would  be 
about  gc.  extra  from  the  price  we 
have  figured,  that  is,  the  extra  8  picks 
would  add  about  ^c.  in  yarn  and  the 
weaving  and  expenses  would  aild 
about  ic.  per  yard. 

Mercerization  makes  the  cotton  fi- 
bre, which  is  a  flat  twisted  tube,  swell 
up  and  become  rather  round,  and 
takes  out  of  the  fibre  the  crinkle  sd 
that  it  is  like  a  small  glass  rod.  This 
gives  the  fibre  its  luster.  In  merceriz- 
ing cloth  by  some  methods 

CARE  HAS  TO  BE  EXERCI3ED 
or  the  cloth  is  likely  to  split  because 
of  the  tension  caused  in  the  process; 
especially  is  this  true  of  the  lighter 
cloths  which  are  mercerized.  Cloth 
with  soft  twist  filling,  of  course,  is  not 
likely  to  wear  as  well  as  if  the  filing 
were  harder  twisted,  but  what  is  sac- 
rificed in  wearing  qualities  is  more 
than  made  up  in  the  improved  looks 
of  the  cloth  because  of  the  merceriz- 
ing process.  Large  profits  have  been 
realized  from  the  sale  of  these  cloths. 


as   there   was  a  £0od  profit  per  yara, 

and    the    yards  produced    have    been 

larger    than    in  many    other    lines    of 
fancy  cloth. 


BOX  LOOM  DOTTED  SWISS 

These  varieties*  of  fabrics  are  made 
and  sold  in  large  volume,  and  the  sale 
seems  to  be  more  regular  than  on 
many  other  lines.  Cloths  of  this  de- 
scription are  used  for  many  purposes, 
such  as  waists  and  dresses,  curtains 
and  also  for  printing  purposes.  The 
goods  are  made  in  many  qualities,  but 
as  a  usual  thing,  the  ground  cloth  is 
rather  fine,  as  cloths  go,  and  the  count 
is  not  as  close  as  in  some  other  lines 
of  fabrics,  although  the  ground  cloth 
is  hardly  ever  loose  enough  to  slip  ex- 
cept on  the  very  cheap  fabrics. 

The  spots  are  usually  in  the  shape 
of  small  polka  dots  spaced  in  a  drop 
pattern  order,  the  spaces  between  the 
spots  being  regulated  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent by  the  size  of  the  spots;  that  is, 
for  a  small  spot  a  small  space  is  al- 
lowed between,  while  with  a  larger 
spot  a  larger  space  is  allowed.  These 
spots  are  made  with  the  use  of  extra 
yarn,  and  the  box  loom  is  used  for 
weaving  the  pattern,  sometimes  a  pick 
and  pick  loom  is  used,  as  in  the  cloth 
we  are  considering,  while  at  other  in- 
stances a  box  loom  is  used  which  can 
throw  no  less  than  two  picks  of  each 
kind  of  filling.  Patterns  are  not  only 
made  with  spots  as  noted,  but  in  many 
cases 

FANCY  FIGURES 

are  made  and  jacquard  looms  are  used 
in  their  production.  Spots  are  also 
made  by  using  extra  warp  yarn,  and 
then  an  ordinary  loom  is  used  which 
has  no  box  attachment.  These  cloths 
are  not  as  good  as  the  ones  made  with 
extra  filling,  because  it  is  impossible 
to  get  as  much  yarn  into  the  spot,  and 
this  has  a  tendency  to  make  the  ex- 
tra warp  spots  look  light,  but  the  price 
of  extra  warp  spots  is  less  because 
there  are  less  picks  per  inch,  and  this 
allows  a  larger  production  and  re- 
duces the  price.  Spots  are  also  made 
with  the  lappet  motion  which  are 
sometimes  sold  in  the  same   >lass  with 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


217 


the  spots  made,  as  above  described 
but  they  are  iu  most  cases  not  as  good 
as  fillmg-made  spots,  although  the 
gi'ound  cloth  is  usually  similar  ic 
weight  and  count.  Ihe  price  ot  these 
cloths  is  usually  less  than  either  of  the 
above. 

Possibly,  the  greatest  trouble  expe- 
rienced in  the  making  of  these  cloths 
is  found  in  the  fact  that,  when  the  ex- 
tra warp  or  tillmg  is  being  placed  in 
the  cloth,  there  is  very  likely  to  be  a 
streak  in  the  cloth  where  there  are 
fewer  picks  than  there  ought  to  be. 
This  is  due  to  ihe  fact  that  the  ground 
cloth  is  ratner  light  ana  tne  neavier 
hilmg  or  warp  yarn  wneu  placed  in 
the  cloth  holds  out  the  filling  from 
beating  up,  thus  making  thin  and  thick 
places.    This  noids  true  in  all  kinds  of 


when  the  spot  is  being  made  to  lift 
about  three-quarters  of  the  total  warp 
yarn,  and  this  would  make  a  bad 
streak,  because  it  makes  a  heavier  lift 
for  the  loom  than  when  making  the 
plain  part  of  the  pattern.  With  the 
face  woven  down,  this  trouble  is  not 
present  to  any  extent.  When  the  spot 
or  extra  filling  is  being  placed  in  the 
cloth,  the  take-up  pawl  is  raised,  and 
this  makes  the  ground  cloth  have  the 
same  number  of  picks  throughout  the 
pattern. 

It  can  be  noticed  in  this  cloth  that 
the  extra  filling  is  not  woven  into  the 
selvage.  Many  mills  persist  in  mak- 
ing these  cloths  with  filling  woven  into 
the  selvage,  thereby  spoiling,  in  some 
cases,  wnat  otherwise  would  be  a  good 
looking  piece  of  cloth.     It  is  unneces- 


Bcx   Loo:n    Dotted   Swiss. 


cloth  of  this  nature,  and  many  times 
it  is  absolutely  impossible  to  eradicate 
a'.l  of  the  trouble,  especially  when  a 
very  light  ground  is  used  with  a  heavy 
spc. 

In   making  this  kind   of  cloth  with 
extra  fi.ling  it  is  necessary  to  weave 

THE  CLOTH  FACE  DOWN 

to  pet  goo',1  results.  A  reason  can  be 
seen  for  this,  which  is  as  follows:  If 
woven  face  up,  it  would  be  necessary 


sary  to  have  this  condition,  as  a  wire 
or  cord  will  obviate  the  necessity  of 
holding  the  filling  which  makes  the 
spot. 

One  large  advantage  in  the  use  of 
extra  filling  is  that  when  the  cloth 
is  to  be  sheared  the  knives  on  the 
shearer  will  pick  up  the  extra  filling 
much  easier  than  extra  warp,  thereby 
making  a  much  better  piece  of  work.. 
Because  of  this  same  reason,  it  is  pos- 
sible  to   make   spots   closer   together 


218 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


with  extra  filling,  and  it  is  hardly  ever 
necessary  to  bind  in  the  filling,  while 
in  many  cases  extra  warp  yarn  has  to 
be  bound  in  above  and  below  the  spot, 
so  as  to  hold  it  tight  enough  to  be 
sheared  without  pulling  out.  This  is 
one  thing  which  is  often  noticed  on 
cloth  made  with  extra  warp,  and 
throughout  the  patterns  or  spots,  there 
is  likely  to  be  extra  warp  threads 
•missing  which 

THE  SHEARING  PROCESS 
has  pulled  out.   Sometimes  this  cannot 
^0  h'^lped,  as  it  is  impossible  to  bind 


means  quite  a  saving  on  the  cost  of 
the  cloth  to  the  manufacturer. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  in  the 
majority  of  cases  the  cloths  made  on 
the  pick  and  pick  looms  are  much  bet- 
ter than  patterns  made  with  the  ordi- 
nary box  loom,  and  the  prices  of  these 
cloths  are  higher  than  those  made  by 
other  methods.  The  above  statement 
holds  true  possibly  in  very  few  cases, 
but  it  is  a  fact  with  the  kind  of  cloth 
we  are  considering. 

ONE  ADVANTAGE 
of  using  extra  filling  in  making  these 


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in  the  extra  yarn  satisfactorily  with- 
out spoiling  the  looks  of  the  figure. 
The  cloth  is  first  run  through  a  ma- 
chine which  cuts  the  long  floats,  but 
does  not  clip  them  close,  as  is  noticed 
in  the  cloth.  This  is  done  in  a  follow- 
ing process,  where  the  long,  loose 
threads  are  brushed  up  and  clipped 
down  close.  In  the  first  process,  care 
must  be  exercised  or  the  machine  is 
likely  to  clip  holes  in  the  cloth,  there- 
by spoiling  it  for  use.  Sometimes  only 
one  machine  is  used,  and  the  cloth  is 
given  a  number  of  runs  so  the  ends 
can  be  cut  down  close. 

On  many  of  these  fabrics  the  waste 
produced  is  ouite  an  item,  as  the 
amount  of  cloth  sold  is  large.  On  the 
cloth  we  are  considering,  about  1 
pound  of  waste  is  made  on  every  25 
yards  of  cloth.  If  this  waste  can  be 
used  In  some  cheaper  yarn,  or  if  it  can 
be    sold    to   advantage,    it    sometimes 


cloths  is  that  a  spot  will  be  softer  and 
look  better  than  if  extra  warp  were 
used.  This  is  because  warp  yarn  is 
twisted  harder  than  filling  and  does 
not  spread  out  so  well  and  make  a 
nice  full  spot. 

Many  of  the  cheaper  cloths  are 
made  from  carded  yarns  and  sell  as 
low  as  5  cents  per  yard  at  the  mills. 
The  cost  of  cloth  made  with  filling  is 
higher,  because  the  speed  of  the  looms 
is  much  lower  and  the  picks  per  inch 
total  are  higher.  This  makes  the 
yards  produced  smaller,  and,  there- 
fore, increases  the  cost. 

Spots  similar  to  the  ones  we  are 
considering  are  sometimes  made  on  an 
embroidery  loom.  This,  of  course, 
makes  a  much  better  result,  and  the 
price  is  usually  much  higher.  Cloths 
made  on  these  looms  are  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  the  results  obtained  either 
by  box  loom  or  lappet  motion.    In  fact. 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


S19 


the  ordinary  cloths  such  as  we  are 
analyzhig  are  usually  copies  of  spots 
or  effects  which  have  been  made  on 
an  embroidered  cloth. 

The  effects  usually  produced  on 
dobby  looms  are  similar  to  the  one  we 
have  analyzed,  although,  as  we  stated 
previously,  there  are  many  effects 
made  on  jacquard  and  embroidery 
looms.    In  most  all  cases  on  the  simple 


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patterns  it  is  not  a  question  of  com- 
plex designing   but  one  of 

TROUBLESOME  WEAVING 
which  makes  poor  looking  cloth.  A 
man  who  lays  out  patterns  for  cloths 
such  as  these  ought  to  study  construc- 
tions very  carefully,  for  it  is  possible 
many  times  to  run  a  sample  piece  with 
care  so  that  the  cloth  is  practically 
even  and  has  no  thick  and  thin  places, 
but  when  this  cloth  is  ordered  and 
looms  are  put  on  weaving  the  cloth. 


it  is  nearly  impossible  to  get  good  re- 
sults. Much  trouble  is  likely  to  be 
caused  in  this  manner  unless  care  is 
exercised  when  the  cloth  is  first  laid 
out.  This  is  a  very  broad  subject  and 
one  which  is  coming  more  and  more 
to  the  front,  for  it  is  beginning  to  be 
realized  by  men  in  the  trade  that  or- 
ders are  placed  in  many  cases  on  cloth 
which  should  not  be  woven,  because 
the  construction  used  was  not  what  it 
should  be  for  the  cloth  being  made. 
Sometimes  the  count  is  too  low  and 
the  goods  will  slip  and  cause  cancella- 
tions, and  in  other  cases,  a  too  close 
count  will  be  used  to  produce  the  best 
results.  This  can  be  seen  in  some 
cases  on  voile  cloths  being  sold,  for  on 
some  of  these  the  count  is  too  close, 
and  not  only  is  it  a  waste  of  material, 
but  a  poorer  effect  is  produced  than 
if  a  somewhat  lower  count  were  used. 
These  facts  show  that  there  is  a  need 
of  closer  study  of  cloth  construction 
by  buyers,  because  the  making  of 
fancy  cloths  is  broadening  out  very 
rapidly,  and  there  is  little  knowledge 
on  the  subject  which  can  be  obtained 
which  applies  in  these  particular  in- 
stances. 

WEIGHTS  OF  YARNS. 

To  get  the  weights  of  the  various 
yarns  used  and  the  yards  per  pound 
we  figure  as  follows: 

2,206    ends    -H     (840    X     55)     =    .0477,    weight 

without    take-up. 
.0477    H-    .95    =    .0502,    weight    with    take-up. 
64  .X  20i;i   X  36 

■ =    1,SSS    yards   65/1    filling   In 

36  1    yard    of   cloth. 

l.SSS    H-    (65    X    840)    =   .0346,   weight  of  65/1 

tilling. 
15.16  X  29%   X  36 


36 


=  447.17  yards  10/1  fUllng 
in    1    yard    of    cloth. 


447.17  -^  (840  X  10)  =  .0532,  weight  of  10/1 
filling. 

.0502    +   .0346   +  .0532   =  .1380,  total   weight. 

1.0000  -7-  .1380  =  7.25  yards  per  pound  be- 
fore   shearing. 

These  fabrics  are  almost  always 
made  of  grey  yarn,  and  are  bleached 
when  woven  and  sheared.  When  sold 
to  the  converter  they  are  sold  sheared, 
and  he  has  them  finished,  dyed  or 
printed,  as  the  trade  demands.  How- 
ever, in  most  cases,  they  are  finished 
white.  Fabrics  with  bunches  of  mate- 
rial printed  on  have  taken  some  of  the 


220 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


places  where  these  fabrics  have  been      ing  demand  for  cloth  of  this  descrip 
used,  but  there  is  a  large  and  increas-      tion. 

PATTERN. 
2  2. 

B5/1   ^^merican   combed   warp.  12        2,158        12        =     2,206    ends. 

65/1    American    combed    filling 64         picks. 

10/1    American    carded     filling 15.16   picks. 

79.16   picks   total. 
37  reed;   29%"  reed  width;  2T^"  finished  width;   27%"  grey  width;   finished  count.   80    X    61 
ground;    80    X    76  over  all.     Grey  count,   SO    X    64   ground;   80    X    79.16   over  all. 

YARNS. 

Cotton.  Labor  &  waste. 
55/1   American  combed;    1   5-16"  sta. ;    11  hank  dou.  rov.,          25c.  16c.  =      41c. 

65/1    American    combed;    1%"    sta.;         16  hank  dou.  rov.,  24c.  17%c.         =      41%c. 

10/1    American  carded;      1"   sta.;  2.5  hank  dou.  rov.,  14c.  4c.  =      18c. 

COST. 

2,206   ends,    55/1   American  combed    +    5%    take-up =   .0.'')02    @    41c.          =  $  .0206 

64    picks    65/1    American   combed =   .0346    @    41Vic.      =  .0144 

15.16    picks,    10/1    American   carded =   .0532    @    18c.          =  .0096 

Weaving    .0168 

Expenses .022o 

$  .0834 
Shearing    .OOl.. 

$    .OSnH 
Selling     .0017 

Cost    grey $   .ObTi. 

Bleaching,    finishing,    etc '. .0]2."i 

Cost    finished $   .lOui 

Yards  per  pound   =   7.25  before  shearing. 
Yfirds  per  pound  ^   9.75   about  finished. 
Price  at  retail,    25c. 

■»  ♦  » ■ 

ADTTUir'TJlT      CTTF    QTDTDU  have   come   to   notice   where   on   voile 

iiullrlulilL     OlLll    OlulriJ  cloths  a  lower  count  could  have  been 

used  and  not  only  a  better  price  se- 

UfjTT  V  cured,  but  a  better  looking  fabric  would 

lUliilj  have    resulted.    It    is    a    fact    that    in 
many  cases  even  the  cotton  used  in  a 

The  cloth  we  are  considering  is  one  cloth  will,  to  a  certain  amount,  reg- 

of   a   variety   which   is   being   sold   in  uiate  the  count  to  be  used,  for  a  rough 

quite  large  quantities  at  present  and  cotton     will     require     a    lower     count 

is  likely  to  sell  in  larger  quantities  the  ,han   a   sniocth   cotton   to   prodrce   as 

coming  summer.    It  is   n  ade  of  much  flrm  a  texture, 

finer  yarn  than  ic  usually  sold,  but  it  is  -rirTT^xj  tv/tamv  qttt  t  tt-rq 

a  well-made  fabric  with  even  yarn,  and  ^ITH  MAN\    SELLERS 

is  representative  of  the  finer  expensive  it  is  a  practice  to  '^^ake  cloths  of  as 

class  of  cotton  voiles.  low   count  as   possible   and   not   have 

The  construction  used  is  about  what  them   slip   badly  when   handled.   This 

it  should  be  for  the  size  of  yarn  used.  policy  is  a  good  one  for  some  grades 

This  question  of  cloth  construction  is  of  cloth,  such  as  voiles,  but  for  many 

one   which   has    been    considered   but  other  fabrics   it  is   a   bad   pracM-e   to 

lightly  by  many  buyers,  for  in  many  adopt,  for  sometimes  cloth  quahty  is 

cases,  constructions  are  ordered  which  regulated  by  its  fineness  and  firrness. 

are    not    suitable.    Many    times    con-  and  other  times  by  its  sheer  look  or 

str  ctions   are   bought  which   are   too  openness.    To    pi't   all   fabrics    on    the 

low,  and  of  course,  it  can  be  imagined  same  basis   would   be  a  foolish   step, 

that  these  were  bought  to  get  them  as  but  this   is  about  what  some   buyers 

low  in  price  as  possible,  but  in  other  or  sellers  would  like  to  do.  Of  r-ourse, 

cases,  a  too  high  count  has  been  or-  it  is  well  known  that  many  cloths  are 

dered.    Quite   a    number   of   instances  ordered  with  low   counts  through   ig- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


221 


iiorance  in  many  cases,  for  it  tias  been 
impossible  to  obtain  men  wlio  under- 
stood cloth  con&tiuction  well  enough 
to  direct  the  buying.  This  condition  is 
just  beginning  to  oe  realized,  becj.use 
of  the  large  increase  in  fancy  woven 
fabrics,  and  to  understand  conditions 
well,  it  is  all  est  necessa-y  ihat  sjiie 
technical  training  be  had  as  a  founda- 
tion, and  it  is  also  necessary  that  quite 
a  little  actual  mill  experience  be  ob- 
tained to  give  any  sort  of  reliable  es- 
timates or  information  on  the  many 
grades    of   fabrics    being    bought   and 


silk.  The  price  on  this  artificial  silk  has 
been  reduced  k  tely  and  the  quality 
improved  so  that  its  use  is  likeiy  to 
increase,  especially  in  such  cloths  as 
voiles  and  low  count  fancy  cloths.  The 
reason  why  more  of  this  silk  has  not 
been  woven,  regardless  of  the  price,  is 
because  in  any  liui  a  coarse  cl^th  the 
rubbing  of  the  reed  in  weaving  has 
split  up  the  fibres  in  the  thread,  there- 
by making  it  weak  and  causing  very 
bad  weaving  yarn.  The  yarn  is  strong 
if  no  rubbing  is  applied  which  splits 
the  threads,  although  tiie  ne>\er  >arn 


Artificial   Silk  Stripe   Voile. 


used  to-day.  It  is  to  be  noticed  that 
there  is  quite  a  little  artificial  silk 
used  in  the  pattern.  This  silk  has  been 
used  but  little  in  the  weaving  of  cloth 
in  America,  but  has  been  made  into 
braids,  ties  and  like  articles. 

THE  REASON 

for  this  has  been  its  high  cost,  com- 
paratively speaking,  for  the  cost  has 
not  been,  as  many  supposed,  very 
rrucb  lower  than  re^l  sHk  bpcanse  the 
threads  are  heavier  and  what  has  been 
in  many  cases  savtd  in  the  lower  price 
has  been  made  up  by  the  fact  that  not 
so  many  yards  of  cloth  could  be  ob- 
tained per  pourd  as  when  using  real 


is  much  better  than  that  foimerly  sold. 
Of  course,  all  buyers  have  been  fa- 
miliar with  the  fact  that  by  wetting 
the  yarn  the  strength  was  lost.  This 
fact  has  also 

RETARDED   ITS   USE, 
although  by  using  this  silk  for  stripes 
where  the  strain  comej  on  the  ground 
yarn,  there  seems  to  be  no  serious  ob- 
jection to  a  large  increase  in  I'sp. 

In  bleaching,  the  silk  is  liable  to 
lose  a  nart  of  its  hi'^h  liistr>r  unless 
especial  care  is  exercised,  although,  in 
the  case  in  hand,  whioh  is  a  Meached 
and  piece-dyed  fabric,  the  cilk  seems 
to  look  as  well  as  before  processing. 
One   thing  which    haa   helped   In    the 


'?? 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


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weaving  of  this  yam  is  the  use  of  it  in 
the  grey  state  before  bein^  bleached, 


as  this  prevents  part  of  the  bad  split- 
ting upually  noticed. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


223 


These  voile  fabrics  which  are  be- 
ing made  and  sold  to-day  in  large 
quantities  are  most  of  them  made  of 
hard  twist  two-ply  yarn.  Some  cloth 
has  been  made  and  sold  in  which  sin- 
gle hard-twist  yarn  was  used,  but  the 
quantity  made  in  fancy  cloths  has  been 
small  and  the  quality  has  not  com- 
pared with  the  two-ply  article.  The 
hard  twist  two-ply  is  made  on  a  twist- 
ing frame,  or,  in  some  cases  on  a 
spinning  frame.  The  reason  the  yarn 
is  hard  twisted  is  because  by  this 
method  a  smooth,  round  thread  is  pro- 
duced. In  making  this  yarn  sometimes 
trouble  is  caused  by  the  yarn  cutting 
the  travelers,  and  as  it  is  hard  twist- 
ed, it  will  kink  up  and  break  down 
more  ends.  If  a  spinning  frame  is 
used,  quite  a  number  of  processes  are 
saved  in  the  making  of  filling,  for  with 
the  use  of  enamelled  bobbins  the  yarn 
when  twisted  and  steamed  is  ready 
for  the  loom.  This,  of  course,  is 

QUITE  A   SAVIN Lr 

in  the  cost  to  make,  besides  a  smaller 
amount  of  machinery  is  required. 

The  standard  of  twist  used  in  this 
yarn  varies  in  different  mills  and  for 
different  qualities  of  cloth.  In  usual 
cases  the  standard  is  from  6.50  to  8, 
but  the  main  point  is  to  have  the 
yarn  as  smootn  and  round  as  possible. 
To  obt?in  this  result,  yarn  is  some- 
times run  through  a  gas  flame,  which 
burrs  off  a  large  share  of  the  fibres 
which  project. 

Clcth  such  as  we  are  considering 
is  usually  sold  by  a  converter  rather 
than  a  jobber.  These  cloths  are  in 
man"  cases  sold  direct  to  the  retailer 
and  the  prices  and  profits  obtained  are 
much  larger  than  in  rrany  coarser  fab- 
rics. It  is  to  be  noticed  that  in  the 
heavy  stripe  where  60-2  yam  is  used 
the  cloth  approaches  the  effect  produc- 
ed in  the  class  of  fabrics  known  as 
poplins,  and  on  which  the  count  is 
in  many  cases  about  100x48.  These 
fabrics  are  used  in  many  cases  for 
overdresses,  and  the  quality  produced 
f">mpares  very  favorablv  with  the  wor- 
sted cloths  made  for  the  same  pur- 
pose,  when   the 

DIFFERENCE   IN   PRICE 

is   considered.    Possibly,    each   has   a 


large  place  to  fill  In  the  production  of 
desirable  fabrics.  The  finished  count 
in  the  warp  is  about  54,  so  under  these 
conditions,  a  50-reed  was  probably 
used,  and  as  these  cloths  shrink  in 
weaving  and  finishing  from  two  to 
three  inches,  depending  on  the  yam 
size  and  construction  used,  we  will 
find  the  layout  of  the  pattern  "as 
follows: 


50   reed    X    42    Inches 
2.100    —    2S    selvages 
selvages. 


2,100   total    dents. 
2,072    dents    Inside 


By  comparing  the  different  parts  of 
the  pattern  we  find  that  the  60-2  yarn 
is  reeded  two  ends  in  a  dent,  the  100-2 
one  end  in  a  dent,  and  the  artificial 
silk  one  end  in  a  dent  drawn  two-ply. 
This  gives  the  total  number  of  dents  in 
the  pattern  as  86.  The  only  way  to  tell 
how  these  or  any  yarns  are  reeded 
when  a  cloth  is  finished  is  by  careful 
observation,  and  can  only  be  learned 
through  years  of  experience  in  the 
making  up  of  cloth,  and  actual  expe- 
rience in  a  mill,  and  even  under  these 
conditions,  it  is  rather  hard  to  tell 
because  cloth  is  pulled  a  lot  in  the 
finishing  operations. 


2.072 


56    =    24   repeats    +    8   dents. 


To  balance  up  our  patterns  so  that 
the  stripes  will  be  the  same  distance 
from  the  selvage,  we  add  the  dents 
left  over  (8)  to  the  dents  in  the  plain 
part  of  pattern  (50)  and  divide  by  2: 


50    f    8    =    58    -»-    2 


29. 


This  gives  us  29  dents  of  plain  or 
voile  weave  to  follow  when  the  selvage 
is  drawn,  and  it  car  be  seen  from  the 
layout  of  the  pattern  on  our  cost  es- 
timate that  the  cloth  exactly  balances, 
as  it  starts  and  ends  with  29  dents  of 
plain.  Patterns  should  always  be  bal- 
anced, if  possible,  for  it  makes  a  much 
better  looking  piece  of  goods  on  the 
counters  and  helps  much  in  the  selling. 

To  get 

THE  DIFFERENT  WEIGHTS 

of  yam  used  in  one  yard  of  cloth,  and 
from  these  weights  to  get  the  yards 
of  cloth  per  pound,  we  proceed  as  fol- 
lows: 


224 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


1,456  ends  -i-  38,500  =  .0378.  weight  of  100/2 

wiirp    without   take-up. 
0378    -h    .95    =    .0398,    weight    of    100/2    in    1 

yard    of    cloth. 
■576    ends    -f-    (60/2    X    840)    =    .0228.    weight 

of   60/2    warp    without    take-up. 
.0228     -7-    .93    =    .0245,     weight    of    60/2    In    1 

yard   of  cloth. 
768    ends    -i-    30,000    =    .0256.    weight    of    150 

denier     warp     without     take-up. 
.0256    H-    .96    =    .0267.    weight    of    150    denier 

in   1    yard  of  cloth. 
h2  picks  X  42"  X  36 

— =    2,1S4    yards    of    fUling 

36  m   1   yard   of  cloth. 

2. 184     -f-     38.500     =     .0567,     weight    of    100/2 

filling   in    1   yard   of   cioth.    • 
.0398     -f     .0245     -t-     .0267     -f     .0567     =     .1477. 

total    weight   of   1    yard   of   cloth. 
1.0000    -T-    .1477    =   6.77   yards  per   pound. 


It  is  to  be  noticed  that  38,500  yards 


are  used  for  figuring  weights  instead  of 
42,000  yards,  which  is  the  standard 
usually  taken  for  100-2.  The  reason 
this  is  done  is  because  in  tlie  twisting 
operation,  when  hard  twist  is  made, 
the  yarn  contracts  to  a  certain  extent, 
and  this  yardage  allows  for  this  con- 
traction. Ihe  yardage  taken  tor  the 
artificial  silk,  namely  30,000,  is  what  it 
actually  runs  when  sized,  and  not  the 
theoretical  yardasre.  for  this  will  be 
found  to  be  somewhat  over  29,500.  In 
finishing,  the  cloth  is  held  out,  be- 
cause the  hard  twist  yarn  will  make 
the  cloth  crepe  up  unless  this  is  done. 


PATTER>\ 


100/2   Sea    Island    hard    twist |14( 

60/2    American    combed I 


150  denier  artificial   silk. 


29 

4 

24 

4 

1      1 
1211 

1      1 

2 

2 

2 

2 

4 

4 

4 

41 

I  2i 
I— I 
1141 


I  = 


=      1.456 
576 


I      I 


52  picks,   100/2  Sea  Island  hard  twist. 

50   reed,    42"  width   in  reed,    40"   finished   width. 


24  X 
70    X    50   finished 


ount  over   all. 


TARNS. 

Labor. 
Cotton.  waste,  etc. 

•100/2  Sea  Island  hard   twist;   1%"  sta. ;  20  hank  dou.  rov..  30c.  48c. 

60/2   Am.   combed;    1%"  sta.;    12   hank   dou.   rov..  26c.  21c. 

150  denier   artificial    silk;    30.000  yds.  per  lb.  Price  on  spools.   $2.50   +   10c.  beaming   = 
100/2  Sea  Island  hard  twist  filling;  same  as  warp.  = 

COST. 

1,456  ends.  100/2  Sea  Island  hard  twist +    5%   take-up   = 

576   ends,    60/2    American  combed -f    7%    take-up   = 

768    envls.    150   denier   artificial   silk f    i%   take-up   = 

56  picks,   100/2   Sea  Island  hard   twist = 

Weaving     

Expenses     


.0398 
.0245 
.0267 
.0567 


.47 

2.60 

.78 


Selling 


Grey    cost    

Bleaching,    dyeing   and   finishing 


Finishe 
Yards  per  pound,   6.7  7. 
Cost  at  retail,   69  cents. 


2,800 


$  .78 

.47 

2.60 

.78 


$  .0310 
.0115 
.0694 
.0442 
.0147 
.0128 

$  .1836 
.0037 

$  .1873 
.0300 

$  .2173 


FINE  YARN  STRIPE 

The  cloth  we  have  analyzed  is 
one  of  many  which  can  be  obtained  in 
most  stores.  The  weight  varies  to 
quite  an  extent  on  these  cloths,  as  dif- 
ferent cloth  constructions  and  stripe 
spacings  are  used,  and  the  yarns  may 
be  of  many  different  sizes,  but  the 
cloths  are  all  light,  because  fir  3  yarns 
are  almost  always  used  in  -manufac- 
turire  Scire  M-es  of  fabrics  are  finish- 
ed white,  and  probably  most  of  these 
cloths  reach  the  consumer  in  this  con- 


dition, but  many  times  printed  pat- 
terns are  used,  and  sometimes  the 
cloth  is  dyed  solid  colors.  Many  cases 
have  been  noticed  where  the  cloth 
quality  was  poor  and  where  the  con- 
verter, to  cover  up  the  effect  produced 
by  uneven  yarn,  would  have  patterns 
printed  which  more  or  less  eliminated 
this   defect. 

The  beauty  of  these  fabrics  lies  in 
the  evenness  and  the  sheer  effect  pro- 
duced. Of  course,  as  it  is  realized  that 
fieures  which  pre  woven  on  sui^h  a 
cloth  do  not  appear  well,  plain  weave 
is  invariably  used  in  weaving,  and  in 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


225 


the  yams  used  Llie  result  will  largely 
depend.  This  means  that  not  only 
tuust  good  staple  cotton  be  used  to 
make  the  fine  yarn  required,  but  care 
must  be  exercised  in  the  different 
processes  of  yarn  malting.  The  cost  of 
a  yarn  will  vary  possibly  more  in 
fine  nun^bers  than  in  coarse,  because 
even  though  high-piiced  cotton  is  used, 
the  material  cost  is  small,  as  compared 
with  the  labor  cost,  whereas  in  coarse 
yarn  the  material  constitutes  the  large 
item  of  expense.  The  staple  of  cot- 
ton used  in  a  certain  eize  of  yarn  will 
vary,  and  this  affects  the  cost,  but  the 
economy  of  management  where  large 
saving  is  made  in  the  labor  expense 


than    lost   by   the    difference   in    yarn 
and  weaving  cost. 

Patterns  which  are  made  in  con- 
structions similar  to  our  sample  are 
limited  in  comparison  with  gooes  made 
on  fancy  looms,  and  the  large  produc- 
tion is  confined  to  plain  cloth,  checks 
and  stripes  in  various  counts  and  yam 
sizes.  These  fabrics  are  sold  largely 
to  converters,  who  have  them  finished 
and  then  distribute  them  in  their  reg- 
ular channels.  Printing  establishments 
have  bought  and  used  large  quan- 
tities of  cloths,  which  they  finish  and 
print  in  various  patterns.  The  amounts 
of  cloth  which  are  bought  are  larger 
than  in  other  fancy  or  fine  construe- 


Fine   Yarn    Stripe; 


will  more  largely  affect  the  yam  price. 
To  obtain  the  best  price  for  the  cloth 
produced,  or  the  highest  profit,  re- 
quires a  good  deal  of  judgment,  for  it 
is  sometimes  possible  to  make  a  poor 
quality  of  yam  ^rom  short  staple  cot- 
ton, comparatively  speaking,  and  by 
pushing  production  to  the  limit,  and 
even  if  the  cloth  quality  is  not  as  good 
as  it  might  be,  to  sometimes  obtain  a 
larger  profit  than  if  a  better  article 
were  made.  To  obtain  the  best  pro- 
duction in  yarn  and  in  weaving,  it  is 
necessary  to  use  good  cotton,  for  what 
can  be  saved  In  cotton  cost  is  more 


tion  lines.  This  does  not  mean  that 
more  total  goods  are  sold,  but  that 
where  a  buyer  takes  100  pieces  of 
fancy  cloth  he  is  likely  to  buy  1,000 
pieces  of  a  fine  construction  cloth. 
In  this  way,  the  individual  orders 
to  a  mill  are  larger  and  the  costs 
of  production  less  in  comparison.  Pos- 
sibly, fewer  converters  handle  such 
lines  than  they  do  fancy  cloth. 

It  might  be  a  good  thing  to  say  that 
to-day  the  prices  on  most  lines  of  fine 
cloths  are  much  lower  than  in  the  past, 
for  the  price  of  cotton  used  in  these 
cloths  will   not  be   much   lower,   and 


226 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


competition  has  been  keener  than  for  yard,  >'ut  this  price  varies  with  the 
some  time.  Prices  are  much  lower  in  quality  and  width.  Fabrics  are  made 
comparison  on  fine  goods  than  on  the  on  high-speed  looms  of  light  con- 
coarser  lines  to-day.  This  results  struction,  and  few  mills  have  been 
from  the  fact  that  prices  on  coarser  built  to  make  such  cloths  except  in 
lines  have  not  been  readjusted  to  the  quite  large  units.  This,  of  course, 
lower  price  of  short  staple  cotton.  They  cuts  down  many  expenses  which  would 
have  been  lowered  somewhat  but  not  make  it  hard  for  a  small  mill  to  com- 
as much  as  they  will  be  under  condi-  pete  for  business.  In  many  mills  warp 
tions  as  they  are  at  present.  It  is  a  yam  is  made  on  a  spinning  frame, 
fact  that  the  margin  of  profit  on  print  while  the  fine  filling  is  spun  on  mules, 
cloth  is  larger  to-day  than  many  be-  It  is  a  fact  that  with  the  use  of  longer 
lieve,  for  only  five  times  in  the  past  staple  cottons  not  as  large  a  standard 
twenty-five  years  has  the  margin  been  of  twist  is   necessary   to   produce   as 

PATTERN. 

jjj    1    )j»|    |_4|    Ml    I    Ml 

80/1    Sea   Island    combed |l2|     |   6|   l|   21   l|   21   l\   61      I12I      =      3,072  total  ends. 

108  X 
1C5/1  Sea  I.sland   combed;    88  picks. 

40  reed,    30"  width  In  reed,   28"  finished  width;   109    X    S8  finished  count  over   all;   86    X    88 
finished  ground  count. 

TARNS. 

Cotton.        Labor,  waste. 
80/1  Sea  Island  combed,   1%"  staple,   16  hank  dou.  rov.,  30c.  26c.  =      56c. 

165/1  Sea  Island  combed,   1%"  staple,   30  hank  dou.   rov.,  32c.  46c.  =      78c. 

COST. 

3,072   ends,    80/1   Sea  Island    +    4% =   .0475    @    56c.          =  %  .0266 

88    picks,    1G5/1    Sea   Island =   .0191    @    78c.          =  .0149 

Weaving    .0068 

Expenses     .0087 

$  .0570 
Selling     .0012 

Grey    cost     $.0582 

Finishing,    etc .0150 

Finished   cost    $  .0732 

Yards  per  pound,  15.01. 
Plain   weave. 
Retail  price,    25c. 

more  than  at  the  present  time.  Buy-  good    results   as   In    coarser   sizes   of 

ers    would    do    well    to    consider    the  yarn,   and   with   many   manufacturers 

future,  for  we  do  not  believe  there  will  too   high   a   standard   has   been   used 

be  a  much  better  time  to  obtain  fa-  on  many  yarns  to  obtain  the  highest 

vorable  prices  on   fine  goods  than  at  break.    Manufacturers   have   been   too 

present,  and  we  do  not  blame  buyers  busy  in  many  cases  to  make  enough 

for  holding  off   purchases   on    coarse  extended   experiments   to   show   them 

goods,  for  it  looks  as  if  better  prices  that  a  slightly  stronger  yarn  could  be. 

:ould    be    obtained    later.    The    only  produced    with    less    twist    than    has 

thing  which  has  kept  up  coarse  cloth  sometimes    been    used    and    so    they 

prices    has    been    the    small    quartity  would  govern  themselves  by  someone 

of  goods  on  hand,  and  it  is  likely  prices  else's  ideas  rather  than  by  facts.  We 

will   fail   as   mills   of  this   sort   begin  have    in    our   analysis   placed   all    the 

to    operate.      Buyers    usually      figure  warp  yam  on  one  beam.  This  may  or 

prices  on  a  pound  basis  on  fine  cloths,  may  not  have  been  th*..  case  in  making 

and  to  show  what  some  of  these  cost,  the  cloth,  for  sometimes  small  cords 

we  will  say  that  the  price  on  can  be  woven  from 

INDIA  LINONS,  THE  SAME  BEAM 

which  weigh  about  the  same  as  this  as  the  ground,  and  in  other  cases  they 

cloth,    is   in    the  vicinity   of  80   cents  require    an    extra    beam.    Some    mills 

per    pound,    or    over    5     cents    per  weave    satin    stripes    from    a    ground 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


287 


beam,  while  others  never  have  much 
success  in  this  method.  The  quality 
of  the  yarn  used  and  the  reeding  of 
the  yarn  sometimes  determines  how 
many  beams  to  use,  for  take-ups  have 
to  be  somewhat  similar  to  make  good 
weaving  warps. 

To  find  the  weight  of  the  warp  and 
filling  used,  and  from  these  weights  to 
obtain  the  jards  per  pound,  is  a  rath- 
er siajple  proceeding: 

3.072  ends    -h    (80    X    840)    =   .0457,    weight  of 

warp    without    take-up. 
.04i7    -i-    .96    =    .0475,    weight    of    warp    with 

tuke-up. 

The  weaving  take-up  as  used  is 
about  4  per  cent. 


picks  X  30"  X  36" 


2,640  yds.   of  filling  in 
1   yard   of   cloth. 
165)     =    .0191,    weight    of 


36" 
2.640     -H     (S40     X 

filling. 

.0475   +   .0191   =  .0666,  total  weight  per  yard. 
1.0000    -i-    .0606    =    15.01    yards    per   pound. 

Many  of  the  imported  fabrics  have 
decorations  in  embroidery,  and  for  this 
reason,  these  fabrics  cost  more  than 
the  plain  cloths.  Possibly,  the  larger 
share  of  domestic  manufactures  are 
made  so  that  they  sell  at  a  price  be- 
low 25  cents  per  yard. 

In  marked  contrast  to  some  of  the 
costs  of  manufacture,  the  price  of  ma- 
terial, including  waste  on  this  cost, 
only  amounts  to  about  43  per  cent, 
while  the  remainder,  which  constitutes 
the  larger  share,  is  made  up  of  labor, 
repairs,  insurance,  depreciation  and 
the  various  iten^s  of  cost.  Very  few  of 
the  ordinary  cloths  are  made  in  which 
the  material,  including  waste,  does 
not  exceed  the  other  items  of  expense. 
A  very  small  profit  per  yard,  in  com- 
parison with  that  which  the  retailer 
obtains,  is  suflScient  to  make  a  good 
return  upon  the  capital  invested,  and 
it  is  probable  that  1  cent  per  yard  is 
as  much  as  a  mill  would  average  to 
receive  in  profits  on  many  fabrics  sim- 
ilar to  sample. 


JACQUARD  SHIRTINGS 

The  fabric  we  have  analyzed  is  one 
on  which  very  many  pitterns  are  pro- 
duced and  which  is  sold  from  year  to 
year  in  more  or  less  regularity.  Dif- 
ferent patterns  are  made  up  to  suit 
the   various   demands   of   fashion,   but 


the  cloth  construction  and  width  do 
not  vary  to  any  large  degree.  The 
cloth  is  made  of  carded  yarn  and  on  a 
jacquard  loom  and  is  made  to  sell  in 
place  of  finer  combed  yarn  cloths, 
which  have  about  the  same  construc- 
tion. It  is  a  fact  that  some  of  these 
carded  fabrics  are  mercerized  and 
make  serviceable  and  good  materials 
in  many  ways.  In  our  cost  we  have 
allowed  good  staple  cotton  for  making 
the  yarn,  as  it  is  true  that  these  yarns 
are  more  often  made  of  shorter  cot- 
ton. In  our  different  items  of  expense, 
we  have  given  figures  which  are 
known  facts,  and  the  results  secured 
are  rather  interesting,  in  that  the 
cloth  is  being  sold  more  or  less  at 
present.  Prices  of  material  and  other 
expenses  do  not  vary  largely  in  to- 
day's basis  from  those  obtaining 
when  the  cloth  was  sold.  This  fab- 
ric was  sold  or  offered  for  sale  by  Seth 
Borden  and  was  made  in  either  the 
Hargraves  or  Parker  mills,  probably 
in   the  latter-mentioned  plant. 

The  original  price  at  the 
beginning  of  the  season  was 
121/^  cents,  but  before  the  sea- 
son was  through,  the  price  had  de- 
clined to  10y2  cents.  It  is  probable 
that  the  larger  amount  of  cloth  was 
sold  at  the  first  price.  In  considering 
the  manufacturing  price  on  our  cost, 
no  attention  need  be  paid  to  the  fin- 
ishing charges,  as  these  cloths  are 
usually  sold  to  converters  in  the  grey 
state  and  they  pay  all  finishing 
charges,  so  the  grey  cloth  cost  and 
manufacturer's  price  represent  the 
profits  secured  by  the  mill  which 
made  the  cloth. 

In  our  estimate,  the  total 

COST    OF    MAKING 

this  fabric  is  about  8  1-7  cents  per 
yard.  Allowing  that  IQi^  cents  was 
the  price  of  the  cloth  to  a  converter, 
it  is  evident  that  a  profit  of  over  2 
cents  per  yard  is  obtained,  or  exactly 
2.35  cents.  At  this  profit  per  yard  a 
loom  will  earn  about  $3.50  per  week 
or  about  $182  per  year.  In  a  mill  of 
1,000  looms,  if  this  same  rate  of  profit 
be  secured,  the  total  profit  would  be 
about  $182,000.  In  the  capitalization, 
the  amount  given  is  $800,000,  so  the 
profit    secured     would    be    somewhat 


228 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


over  22  per  cent  if  all  cloths  were 
sold  under  the  same  ratio  of  profit. 
What  the  profit  would  be  if  12%  cents, 
the  highest  price,  were  used  can  eas- 
ily be  seen,  as  it  would  give  an  earn- 
ing per  yard  per  loom  of  $286,  or  about 
a  profit  of  35  per  cent  if  $800,000  were 
used  as  the  total  amount  invested. 

This  fabric  was  evidently  made  on 
a  400-jacquard  loom  and  has  three 
repeats  of  the  pattern  in  the  width  of 
the  machine.  It  is  tied  up  100  per  inch, 
giving  a  width  in  the  comber  board 
of  four  inches  and  a  grey  cloth  width 
of  about  three  and  three-quarters 
inches  and  slightly  less  than  this 
width  when  finished.  Looms  which 
make  fabrics  similar  to  sample  have 
double  the  number  of  hooks  in  the 
jacquard  head,  but  they  are  tied  up  so 
that  two  hooks  operate  one  eye,  and  in 
this  machine,  which  could  weave  400 
ends  in  a  pattern,  there  would  be  800 
hooks  in  the  machine  head.  The  rea 
son  for  tying  up  in  this  manner  is 
that  a  much  higher  loom  speed  can 
be  obtained,  and  a  fair  estimate  would 
give  a  speed  of  about  145  to  150  picks 
per  minute.  Some  looms  are  operated 
faster  than  this,  but  it  is  questionable 
whether  results  warrant  higher  speeds 
than  this  or  not. 

In  making  patterns  like  sample  it  is 
necessary  to  have 

THE  INDIVIDUAL  FIGURES 

grouped  so  that  no  open  spaces  ap- 
pear between  figures  in  either  warp 
or  filling  direction.  If  this  is  not  done 
bad  streaks  are  likely  to  result  in  the 
woven  cloth.  It  is  always  a  good  plan 
to  make  figures  overlap  slightly,  thus 
eliminating  much  of  this  trouble.  Fig- 
ures are  practically  always  made  of 
filling  floats,  though  warp  floats  are 
sometimes  used  to  bring  up  special  ef 
fects.  The  reason  why  filling  floats 
are  used  largely  is  that  this  yarn  is 
of  softer  twist  than  the  warp,  cov- 
ering up  and  making  a  smoother  and 
better  effect,  and  when  mercerized, 
the  process  usually  gives  the  luster  to 
the  filling  yarn,  for  the  cloth  is  held  in 
tension  in  the  cloth  width  direction. 
The  usual  method  in  selling  fabrics 
similar  to  sample  is  to  quote  a  price 
for  the  cloth  construction,  and  when 
an  order  is  placed,  the  buyer  will  pick 


out  patterns  which  he  thinks  may  be 
suitable  for  his  trade.  Sometimes 
much  confusion  is  made  by  a  buyer 
deciding  to  change  his  patterns  when 
cloth  making  is  in  process,  and  many 
times  friction  is  made  between  buy- 
ers and  sellers  lor  this  reason.  Many 
methods  are  used  in  making  similar 
cloths  salable,  for  they  are  bleached 
and  mercerized  like  sample,  they  are 
piece-dyed  in  various  colors,  and 
are  bleached  and  printed  with  various 
patterns  and  colors.  A  large  outlet 
is  thus  made  possible  in  these  lines, 
but  probably  most  of  the  cloth  is  sold 
in  the  white  condition,  the  woven  pat- 
tern constituting  the  only  effect  in  the 
finished  cloth.  It  is  certain  that  most 
of  the  cloth  for  the  coming  summer 
will  be  bleached  and  mercerized  only 
and  not  dyed  or  printed  in  fabrics  of 
this  character,  so  woven  figures  will 
constitute  the  effects  produced. 
LARGE    ORDERS    OBTAINED. 

Contrary  to  the  belief  of  many,  it 
can  be  said  that  sometimes  large  or- 
ders are  obtained  on  fabrics  of  this 
kind.  It  is  true  that  the  number  of 
pieces  per  pattern  may  be  compara- 
tively small,  but  the  number  of  yards 
woven  with  a  certain  cloth  construc- 
tion may  be  large.  The  only  difference 
which  obtains  between  orders  on  some 
of  the  coarser  lines,  and  on  lines  sim- 
ilar to  sample,  is  that  designs  must  be 
changed  more  often  on  fancy  cloth. 
This  is  not  so  large  an  undertaking 
nor  so  expensive  as  many  believe,  for 
making  designs  for  simple  filling  float 
figures  is  a  comparatively  quick  oper- 
ation, as  is  the  cutting  of  cards  for  the 
loom.  The  cost  of  jacquard  cards  may 
seem  a  rather  large  item,  but  when 
figured  down  to  the  cost  per  yard 
which  is  produced,  the  amount  is  very 
small,  as  can  be  seen  from  our  analy- 
sis of  costs. 

In  making  up  the  details  for  placing 
the  design  upon  point  paper  and  in 
the  instructions  regarding  the  draw- 
ing-in  operation,  the  foundation  }i|S 
obtained  in  analyzing  the  cloth.  As 
we  have  given  in  the  cost  estimate, 
the  reed  used  was  probably  No.  40 
and  the  jacquard  head,  a  regular  400, 
which  was  tied  up,  100  per  inch  in  the 
comber  board,  giving  a  width  of  four 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


S2d 


iDcbes,  then  we  have  40  reed  times 
four  inches  equals  160  dents  in  total 
pattern  or  machine  repeat.  160  dents 
times  2  ends  per  dent  equals  320  ends 
in  total  pattern  or  machine  repeat. 

As  there  are  three  repeats  of  the 
pattern  in  the  total  pattern  or  ma- 
chine repeat,  it  can  be  seen  that  320 
will  not  be  exactly  the  number  of  ends 
to  have  the  repeats  come  right,  that 
is,  the  total  ends  must  be  either  318 
or  324.  The  facts  are  that  in  a  pattern 
similar  to  the  sample  analyzed,  320 
ends  would  probably  be  used  and  one 
of  the  figure  repeats  be  moved  over 
two  ends,  making  the  figures  take  up 
106,  106  and  108  ends,  respectively, 
giving  a  total  of  320.  This  change 
never  would  be  noted  on  a  pattern  of 
this  kind. 

Considering  that  the  jacquard  ma- 
chine is  made  to  weave  40-inch  cloth, 
we  would  have  40  inches  divided  by  4 
inches,  one  repeat,  equals  10  sections 
in  the  tie-up.  As  we  have  figured  that 
the  warp  has  2,420  ends  inside  the 
selvages  and  there  are  320  ends  used 
in  one  section,  we  can  find  the  sec- 
tions used  and  in  this  way  balance  the 
cloth  in  the  loom. 

2,420    -f-    320    =    7  sections    +    180    ends. 

If  we  refer  to  the  small  diagram  it 
will  be  seen  plainly  in  which  sections 
the  ends  are  drawn.  The  lower  half 
represents  the  total  tie-up  while  the 
upper  half  represents  the  ends  which 
are  used. 


From  the  diagram  given  it  can  be 
seen  that  the  warp  is  balanced  in  the 
loom,  thereby  making  better  work.  In- 
structions for  drawing-in  would  be  as 
follows: 

Start  drawing  warp  on  hook  No.  7, 
row  No.  9,  section  No.  2. 

Finishing  drawing  w'arp  on  hook  No. 
2,  row  No.  39,  section  No.  9. 

If  a  pattern  should  be  used  in  which 
stripes  or  cords  were  present,  the  pat- 
tern itself  would  be  balanced  in  a 
method  similar  to  regular  dobby  work, 
and  if  a  pattern  was  balanced  and 
called  for  50  ends  of  plain  to  start, 
these  50  ends  would  start  on  the 
point-paper  on  the  7th  hook  or  end  in 
row  9,  as  above  noted.  This  arrange- 
ment gives  accurate  results  and  the 
best  looking  and  running  cloth.  In 
very  many  instances,  jacquard  pat- 
terns are  never  balanced,  detracting 
much  from  the  looks  of  the  woven 
cloth  and  also  its  selling  ability.  Many 
times,  it  is  impossible  to  make  pat- 
terns balance,  for  designers  do  not  al- 
ways plan  the  layout  in  the  loom.  Pat 
terns  have  to  be  sometimes  repainted 
for  this  very  reason. 

In  making  patterns  some  buyers  du 
not  understand  why  some  cloths  with 
identical  constructions  do  not  appear 
as  firm  as  others.  They  order  pat- 
terns with  varying  sizes  of  figures  and 
others  with  ground  weaves,  and  be- 
cause  some  patterns   slip,   they  think 


1 

2   1 

3   1 

1    4    1 

5   1 

1   6   1 

1   7   1 

1    8 

'.   9   1 

10   1 

1 

90  1601 

320   1 

1   320   1 

~t/o 

1   320 

1   320   1 

1   320 

1160   901 

1 

1   400 

1   400   1 

400   1 

1   400   1 

400   1 

1   400   1 

1   400   1 

1   400 

1   400  1 

400   1 

As  400  machines  are  tied  up  8  hooks 
In  a  row,  it  can  be  seen  that  there  are 
50  rows  total.  If  only  320  ends  or 
hooks  are  used,  there  will  be  400  less 
320  equals  80  hooks  to  cast  out. 

80    -H    8    In   a   row    =    10    rows   or    5    rows   In 
each    half   section   cast    out. 

Possibly  the  best  way  to  cast  out 
these  rows  would  be  to  cast  out  rows 
11.  12,  23,  24,  25,  36,  37,  48,  49,  50. 
This  splits  up  the  total  cast  out  and 
makes  better  running  work  than  if  the 
total  amount  was  cast  out  in  one 
place. 


mills  are  cutting  down  on  cloth  con- 
struction or  yarns,  when  the  facts  are 
that  the  less  interweaving  there  is  in 
cloth,  due  to  longer  floats  on  ground 
weaves,  the  more  a  cloth  will  slip,  and 
the  more  nearly  the  weave  approaches 
the  plain  weave  the  firmer  will  be  the 
result.  More  care  on  the  part  of  some 
buyers  will  eliminate  a  part  of  the 
friction  which  sometimes  appears  be- 
tween buyers  and  sellers  regarding 
the  cloth  produced.  Two  different 
weaves  may  produce  entirely  different 
results  even  if  the  cloth  construction 
be  identical. 


230 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


PATTERN. 
2  a 

40/1    Am.    carded   warp.        20        2,240        20     ■=      2,500,    total    ends. 
28/1    American   carded   filling.      72    picks. 

40    reed,    30%"   width   In   reed,    29"   grey    width,    28"  finished    width;    85    X    72    grey   count: 
88    X    68   finished  count. 

YARN. 

Cotton.  Labor,   waste. 

40/1   Am.   carded;   1%"  staple;    8       bank  dou.   rov.,  21c.  9c.  =      30c. 

28/1   Am.   carded;   1%"  staple;   6.5  hank  dou.   rov.,  21c.  7c.  =     28c. 

COST. 

2,500  ends,    40/1    Am.   carded    +    8%    take-up   =   .0809    ®    30c =   )  .0243 

72   picks,   28/1  Am.   carded  =   .0941   @    28c =        .0264 

Weaving     .0122 

Expenses     .0166 

Jacquard   cards    .0004 

I  .0799 
Selling     .0016 

Grey,   or  mill   cost {  .0815 

Bleaching   and   finishing   .0125 

Fini.shed    cost    $.0940 

Yards  per  pound,   5.71 

Mill  selling  price,   12  %c.,  reduced  later  to  10%c.  per  yard. 

♦-•-♦ 

QTT  IT    MTYTTIDl?    Tl?Wfl  dition,  as  it  will  be  found  that  when 

ulLjl    JlllAlUlUJ    LjjnU  conditions   are   created   whereby 
QPAPUTWr  NOVELTY   COTTON 

uUnllririu  manufacturers  can  make  certain  kinds 

of   fabrics    at   a    profit,     many    newer 

Fabrics  of  various  constructions  and  combinations  and  effects  will  be  pro 

materials  have  been  used  in  the  past  duced   than    have    ever     before     been 

in  quite  large  quantities  for  scarfings  seen.    More  ingenuity  is  possibly  re- 

and  similar  purposes.    Many  of  them  quired  in  cotton  novelty  making  than 

have  been  made  of  silk  and  net,  and  is  necessary  in  any  other  line  of  en- 

as  a  general  thing,  they  are  light  in  deavor,    for     not     only     are    a    large 

weight    and    rather    expensive  to  the  amount    of    patterns    required,    but   a 

consumer,  because  of  their  method  of  large    number   of   constructions    also, 

manufacture.    There  has  been  a  large  More  ideas  have  possibly  been  produc- 

sale   of  such   fabrics   during  the   past  ed   in   scarfings    since    articles    were 

year,    and    it    is    expected    that    the  manufactured  of  cotton  and  silk  than 

amount  of  cloth  sold  will  increase  in  were  seen  before.   Another  instance  of 

the    future.     One    reason    for    the    in-  cotton  novelty  cloth  progress  is  seen 

crease  in  sales  is  the  lower  price  at  in  the  ideas  produced  in  fancy  cotton 

which  many  new  lines  are  being  sold.  voiles.    Voiles  were  made  in  worsted, 

The  reason  for  this  is  the  making  of  and  sold  before  any   were   hardly  at- 

novelties  in  silk  and  cotton  by  many  tempted   in   cotton,    but   it  is   safe   to 

northern  mills.    These  silk  and  cotton  say  that  to-day  the  ideas  produced  in 

cloths,  of  which  the  sample  we  have  cotton  are  far  more  novel  and  beauti- 

analyzed    is    one,    are    not    such    good  ful  than  the  majority  of  worsted  lines; 

fabrics   as   many   whole   silk   articles,  that   is,    as   far   as    cotton   looms   are 

but  they  look  very  well  indeed,  and,  of  able  to  produce  and  the  limit  of  price 

course,   the   appearance  is  what  sells  will  warrant  with  cotton  as  a  ground 

many    fabrics,    so    it   has    resulted   in  work.    Many  lessons  might  be  learned 

many  new  lines  being  produced.    One  from  cotton  manufacturers  to-day  by 

thing  which  is  verj-  noticeable  is  that  others,      and     from      appearances      it 

the  patterns  produced  are  more  novel  would  help  in  straightening  out  some 

and  better  than  have  ever  been  pro-  of   the   vexing    problems    which     are 

duced  in  silk  at  anywhere  near  com-  present, 
parative  prices.   This  is  a  general  con-  One  other  thing  which  many  people 


1 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tSl 


do  not  realize  Is  that  to-day  there  Is 
quite  a  little  competition  on  the  silk 
and  cotton,  and  also  on  the  other 
fancy  lines  of  cloth.  Because  the  retail 
prices  are  high  does  not  signify  that 
the  mills  have  obtained  exorbitant 
prices  in  many  cases,  for  there  are 
few  lines  which  to-day  are  being  of- 
fered by  mills  which  have  more  value, 
everything  considered,  than  many  of 
the  fancy  novelty  cloths.  The  facts 
are  that  the  prices  are  made  closer 
than  is  believed.  This  does  not  mean 
that  no  profit  is  mada,  or  that  prices 
do  not  vary,  but  it  does  mean  that 

MARGINS  ARE  CLOSE 

in  most  cases.  When  the  price  of 
silk  varies  15  per  cent,  or  more,  some- 
times, in  a  short  time,  it  is  necessary 


care  in  prices,  but  it  Is  a  fact  that, 
taken  as  a  whole,  few  cotton  manu- 
facturers are  able  to  give  accurate 
costs  on  fabrics,  except  where  only  a 
few  grades  of  cloth  are  made,  and 
then  they  cannot  give  detailed  figures. 
In  woolen  lines,  it  is  true  that  a  very 
large  improvement  could  be  made,  for 
in  many  cases,  prices  are  not  made 
which  compare  with  the  costs  of  pro- 
duction. 

The  cloth  we  are  considering  is  a 
simple  weave.  The  stripes  are  plain, 
and  on  each  edge  is  a  leno  weave 
which  holds  each  stripe  In  place,  and 
keeps  the  openwork  as  clear  as  pos- 
sible. The  leno  weave  changes  every 
second  pick,  because  with  a  change 
of  every  pick,  the  weave  would  be  too 
close,  and  would  cut  the  light  filling. 


Silk   Mixture  Leno  Scarfing. 


to  vary  prices,  but  the  mills  receive 
little  benefit  unless  gambling  is  re- 
sorted to,  and,  of  course,  this  Is  not 
the  way  to  run  a  mill,  as  some  have 
found  out.  It  is  a  fact  that  many  cot- 
ton manufacturers  are  more  accurate 
and  systematic  in  keeping  track  of 
their  costs  than  in  other  lines.  Pos- 
sibly, this  Is  beciuse  larger  plants  are 
the  rule,  in  tho  North,  at  least,  in  cot- 
ton lines,  and  necessity  compels  more 


Even  with  the  construction  used,  the 
fabric  slips  somewhat,  due  to  the  large 
amount  of  openwork  used.  The  cloth 
has  only  140  doups,  and  it  Is  probable 
a  weaver  could  run  four  looms,  for 
the  cloth  Is  narrow,  and  the  filling 
runs  well.  If  a  weaver  could  run  but 
two  looms,  the  Increase  in  weaving 
cost  would  be  somewhat  over  two 
cents,  so  the  saving  here  represents  a 
large  amount.   Weavers  have  run  four 


238 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


looms    successfully    on    much     harder 
cloth  to  weave  than  this,  so  our 

ESTIMATE   IS   REASONABLE. 

These  cloths  are  practically  always 
woven  in  the  grey,  and  then  finished 
and  dyed.  Fast  colors  to  stand  bleach- 
ing are  being  used  to  a  certain  extent 
to  produce  desired  results.  Many  fab- 
rics in  fancy  weaves,  with  the  same 
construction  as  is  used  in  this  scarf- 
ing, have  been  sold  at  less  than  11 1/^ 
cents  in  the  grey  state  for  27  inches 
wide.  These  fabrics  are  retailing  for 
25  cents  per  yard.  Considering  the 
price  at  which  mills  have  sold  these 
fabrics,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  very  few 
lines  in  woolen  cloths  are  produced  on 
so  narrow  a  margin  of  profit.  Cotton 
manufacturers  have  been  giving  bet- 
ter cloth  at  closer  prices  than  is  gen- 
erally believed,  but  it  is  a  fact  that 
consumers  have  benefited  very  little, 
even  if  makers  have  reduced  prices, 
and  are  supplying  better  cloth,  too. 
What  mills  need  to-day  is  a  large  de- 
mand, so  that  orders  can  be  procured 
to  keep  their  looms  in  operation,  for, 
with  full  production,  the  prices  re- 
ceived would,  in  the  majority  of  cases, 
be  satisfactory.  High  prices  to  the 
consumer  seem  to  restrict  a  large  sale, 
and  manufacturers  are  suffering  in  a 
large  measure  for  conditions  which 
they  have  had  nothing  to  do  with;  in 
fact,  the  prices  quoted  by  manufactur- 
ers to-day,  on  fancy  and  fine  goods, 
should  mean  a  large  demand,  but  un- 
fortunately, it  has  not. 

Fabrics  made  from  silk  and  cotton 
are  handled  in  increasing  quantity  by 
regular  silk  houses  which  convert 
them  and  sell  to  the  retailers,  and 
which,  in  many  cases,  conduct  their 
business  similar  to  converting  jobbers, 
and,  of  course,  receive  converting  job- 
bers' profits.  This  cloth  was  made 
when  silk  was  cheaper  than  at  pres- 
ent, so  the  figured  cost,  which  repre- 
sents to-day's  basis,  may  have  been 
made  lower,  because  of  a  lower  ma- 
terial charge.  The  total  warp  cost  is 
only  about  li^  cents,  so  it  shows  how 
accurate  figures  must  be  to  even  be 
fairly  reliable. 

Nearly  all  fabrics  which  have  open- 
work stripes,  and  in  which  silk  or 
any  slippery  yarn  is  used,  have  leno 


ends  woven  on  the  openwork  edges, 
to  keep  the  stripes  in  place,  for  they 
are  likely  to  slip  badly  in  use.  Heavy 
yarn,  if  used  for  leno  ends,  is  likely 
to  cut  the  fine  silk  filling.  In  many 
of  the  silk  fabrics  which  are  composed 
of  part  cotton,  it  is  a  fact  that  the 
silk  used  will  vary  surprisingly,  not 
only  in  the  yards  per  pound  in  the 
same  lot  of  silk,  but  some  manufactur- 
ers will  make  a  pattern  and  use  a  finer 
silk  to  produce  it  so  as  to  compete 
with  other  more  expensive  yam.  Of 
course,  a  good  manufacturer  makes  a 
contract  and  usually  states  the  quality 
of  yarn  to  be  used,  which 

ELIMINATES   ALL   TROUBLE 

of  such  nature,  but  it  cannot  elimi- 
nate the  variation  in  size  to  which  the 
yarn  is  subject.  Where  the  practice  is 
used  is  when  buyers  have  ordered  a 
certain  pattern  with  a  certain  silk, 
and  then  when  the  cloth  appears  to  be 
selling  well,  to  place  more  orders  with 
a  finer  silk,  and  make  no  change  in 
price,  and  many  buyers  think  they  are 
obtaining  the  same  cloth,  which  they 
are  not.  Buyers  have  insisted  that 
they  were  protecting  themselves,  lest 
others  oiTer  cloths  of  lower  count,  or 
of  finer  silk,  to  sell  at  a  lower  price, 
but  many  times,  it  was  not  done  for 
this  purpose,  and  we  do  not  believe 
buyers  have  known  the  quality  re- 
ceived, for  it  is  sometimes  hard  for  an 
expert  to  tell  what  size  silk  has  been 
used,  especially  if  the  cloth  has  been 
worked  much  to  spread  out  the  fi- 
bres. The  only  way  to  ascertain,  In 
such  cases,  is  with  a  large  magnify- 
ing glass,  which  few  have,  and  be  - 
sides  cloth  is  not  bought  by  jobbers 
or  retailers  in  this  manner.  Mills  de- 
liver the  quality  of  cloth  called  for, 
and  the  substitution  is  done  after  the 
mill  has  delivered  the  goods.  Buyers 
know  quite  a  little  in  regard  to  cloth 
construction  in  fancy  cotton  lines,  but 
knowledge  should  not  be  used  in  a 
wrong   manner. 

It  is  a  good  thing  to  have  buyers 
in  cotton  understand  something  of 
cloth  construction,  as  it  results  in  bet- 
ter cloth  from  the  mills,  and  it  would 
be  a  good  thing  for  many  woolen  buy- 
ers to  obtain  some  knowledge  of  cloth, 
for  they  are  sadly  lacking  in  this  re- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Bpect.  Large  retailers  should  also 
check  up  their  deliveries  from  con- 
verters. The  large  retailers  who  aro 
doing  converting  seem  destined  to 
solve  many  of  the  problems  which 
confront  buyers  and  consumers  to- 
day. They  are  at  least  getting  large 
returns  from  the  knowledge  of  cloth 
which  they  are  applying  to  their  sys- 
tems of  distribution,  and  they  usually 
get  the  quality  of  cloth  they  desire, 
and  are  not  likely  to  change  the  con- 
struction. The  silk  yardage  we  have 
used  in  figuring  our  weights  is  not 
the  theoretical  yardage  for  this  size 
silk  but  it  is  an  assumed  yardage  ar- 
rived at  from  actual  tests,  which  will 
protect  the  manufacturer  when  the 
silk  yardage  varies,  as  has  been  pre- 
viously stated. 

INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  DYEING. 
This  sample  is  dyed  a  solid  color 
on  both  the  cotton  and  silk.  It  is  of 
a  pale  blue  shade,  and  can  be  very 
conveniently  obtained,  with  direct  cot- 
ton colors  so  selected  that  the  dye- 
stuff  will  work  equally  well  on  both 
fibres.  The  following  formula  is  rec- 
ommended for  dyeing  this  color:  1-10 
per  cent  diamine  blue,  R.  W.  (Cassella 
Color  Company.) 


This  amount  of  color  is  to  be  taken 
on  the  weight  of  material  to  be  dyed 
and  added  to  the  dye-bath,  which 
should  also  contain  three  ounces  of 
soap,  one  ounce  of  soda  and  four 
ounces  of  Glauber's  salt  to  each  10 
gallons  of  the  dye -liquid. 

This  material  is  dyed  in  the  piece, 
and  most  conveniently  in  the  ordi- 
nary dye-  kettle,  used  for  piece-dyeing. 
The  water  employed  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  dye-bath  should  be  as  soft 
as  possible,  in  order  to  preserve  the 
brilliancy  of  the  silk,  and  to  obtain  the 
true  pure  tone  of  the  color.  When  all 
of  the  ingredients,  together  with  the 
dyestuff,  have  been  added  to  the  bath, 
the  liquor  should  be  brought  to  the 
temperature  of  140  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, and  the  goods  run  for  one  hour 
at  that  temperature.  After  the  dyeing 
has  been  completed,  the  goods  should 
be  rinsed  off  in  soft  water,  or  if  this  is 
not  available,  a  little  soda  should  be 
added  to  the  water  in  order  to  cor- 
rect its  hardness. 

In  order  to  increase  the  brilliancy 
of  the  silk  after  dyeing,  the  goods  may 
be  run  through  a  diluted  bath  of 
acetic  acid,  containing  about  two 
ounces  of  acetic  acid  to  10  gallons  of 


PATTERN. 


2 

60/1 

Am. 

cmb. 

wp. 

16 

8 

60/2 

Am. 

cmb. 

wp. 

4 

4X  53X 

14/16   2   thread  Canton  silk  filling;   76  picks. 

46  reed,    25%"   width   In   reed,    24"   grey   width,    24"   finished   width;    99    X 
53    X   76  over  all  count. 

YARNS. 


I    81161=1.000 
4|      I      1=     280 


4X  Total  1,280 
76   ground  count; 


Cotton. 
60/2  Am.   comb,   warp;   1%"  sfa.:   12  hank  dou.   rov..  26c. 

60/1   Am.   comb,   warp;   1%"  sta.;   12  hank  dou.   rov.,  26c. 

14/16  2  thread  Canton  silk;  135.000  yds.  per  lb.;   ready  on  quills 


Labor, 
waste. 

17c. 

17c. 


Twisting. 
4c. 


$  .47 

.43 

3.55 


COST. 

1,000  ends,   60/1  Am.  combed                                      4-      4%   take-up   =   .0206    @    $  .43      =  $  .0089 

280  ends,   60/2   Am.  combed                                      +    15%    take-up   =   .0131    @        .47      =  .0062 

76    picks.    14/16    2  thread   Canton   silk                                                  =   .0145    @      3.55      =  .0515 

Weaving    .0215 

Expenses     .0187 

$   .1068 

Selling     .0021 

Cost    grey     J  .1089 

Finishing,    dyeing,    etc .0300 

Cost    finished     »  .1889 

Yards  per  pound,  20.76. 
Retail    prlc«,    I7c. 


284 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


liquor,  and  dried  witliout  rinsing. 
After  the  brightening  has  been  com- 
pleted, the  goods  sliould  be  run  over 
a  spreader  for  the  purpcse  of  straight- 
ening out  the  goods  and  then  dried 
over  ordinary  drying  cans  witliout  too 
much  tension  being  put  on  the  fabric. 


SILK  MIXTURE  FAST  COLOR 
NOVELTIES 

In  our  analysis  of  these  fabrics  we 
have  given  the  patterns  of  both  cloths, 
but  the  cost  applies  only  to  the  blue 
sample.  The  yarns  are  identical  in  the 
samples,  but  the  reed  width  in  the  blue 


opportunities  in  these  lines.  Many 
m'lls  use  colors  which  are  called  fast, 
and  they  are  to  an  extent  fast,  but 
they  will  not  stand  a  bleaching  proc- 
ess, while  the  colors  used  in  these 
samples  are  practically  as  bright  as 
before  the  bleaching  process.  There 
are  samples  of  cloth  made  that  con- 
tain silk  yarn  which  when  bleached 
are  still  fast  and  bright,  but  they  have 
not  been  sold  to  as  large  an  extent  as 
they  will  be  later,  when  the  results 
can  be  seen. 

What  the  above  facts  mean  is  little 
appreciated  by  many  in  the  trade,  for 
they  have  not  felt  the  effects  as  yet, 
but  sooner  or  later  it  will  be  hard  for 
certain  mills  to  obtain  orders.  This 
will  be  brought  about  by  the  fact  that 
many  lines  of  cloth  can  be  made  cheap- 


Heliotrope    Shirting. 


striped  cloth  is  38i/4  inches,  while  the 
reed  width  of  the  heliotrope  fabric  is 
38  inches.  It  will  be  found  that  the 
cost  of  producing  different  patterns 
will  vary  little,  as  will  be  explained 
later. 

These  cloths  are  some  of  the  newest 
ideas  in  manufacturing,  for  not  only 
are  they  novelties,  inasmuch  as  they 
contain  silk,  but  they  also  contain 
yarn  which  is  dyed  before  weaving 
and  which  has  been  bleached  when 
woven.  It  is  only  within  a  short  time 
that  such  colors  have  been  used,  and 
It  is  certain  that  the  future  holds  large 


er  and  possibly  better  by  this  method. 
The  past  summer  has  seen  the  be- 
ginning, in  a  large  way,  of  certain 
changes  which  are  bound  to  follow.  It 
is  a  fact  that  men  are  not  wearing 
shirtings  with  large  amounts  of  color 
in  them  as  formerly,  and  it  is  true 
that  fabrics,  generally,  of  this  char- 
acter are  better  looking  if  quite  a  lit- 
tle white  is  used  in  their  make-up.  For 
this  reason,  it  can  be  seen  that  cloth 
can  be  produced  cheaper  by  using  a 
small  number  of  fast-colored  ends  and 
bleaching  the  cloth  when  woven,  for 
it  is  much  easier  and  cheaper  to  bleach 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


286 


cloth  than  It  is  yarn.  Not  only  is  It 
cheaper,  but  it  is  also  possible  to  use 
soft  twist  yarn  for  filling,  and  this  al- 
lows the  cloth  to  be  mercerized  in  the 
piece,  which  adds  much  to  the  appear- 
ance when  sold.  Because  more  twist 
is  needed  so  that  yarns  can  be  handled 
satisfactorily  when  they  are  used  in  a 
yarn-dyed  fabric,  mercerization  adds 
but  little  to  the  looks  of  a  fabric,  so 
this  process  is  seldom  used. 

The  use  of  yarn  of  this  character 
places  almost  any  grey  cloth  mill  in  a 
position  to  make  many  varieties  of 
cloths  which  it  otherwise  could  not 
produce,  and  makes  the  amount  of 
cloth  sold  by  purely  shirting  mills 
much  smaller.  Not  only  do  the  above 
facts  stand  out  clearly,  but  it  is  also 
true  that  grey  fabric  mills  are  able  to 
produce,  generally,  cloths  of  large  va- 


Take  the  cloth  analyzed  and  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  ground  warp  Is  60-1. 
Few  colored  shirting  mills  use  yarn 
much  finer  than  40-1,  and  most  use 
30-1  in  their  shirtings,  while  60-1  is 
only  a  medium  size  in  a  grey  mill 
which  makes  fancy  and  fine  cloths.  In 
fabrics,  color  and  cords  are  used  for 
decorative  purposes,  and  it  can  be 
seen  that,  although  the  color  is  30-1, 
the  cloth  effect  is  given  by  the  60-1 
used. 

Many  fine  shirtings  will  te  produced 
soon  which  cannot  be  approached  by 
a  regular  shirting  mill  and  which  will 
displace  more  or  less  fabrics  made  by 
the  older  type  of  mills.  Even  at  pres- 
ent the  older  mills  have  had  to  de- 
velop other  lines  of  colored  novelties 
to  keep  their  looms  in  operation,  and 
their    sales    are    continually    growing 


Blue  Shirting. 


riety  in  regard  to  sizes  of  yam  used. 
Shirting  mills  have  only  a  few  qual- 
ities of  fabrics,  that  is,  their  yarn  sizes 
do  not  vary  much,  and  their  patterns 
are  produced  by  different  colors  and 
cords  in  various  spacings  and  combi- 
nations, while  in  a  grey  mill  it  is  the 
weave  and  yarn  size,  together  with  the 
cloth  construction  used,  which  give 
the  result.     It  can  thus  be  seen  that 

MUCH  FINER  CLOTH, 
regarding  yarn  and  count,  can  be  pro- 
duced In  a  grey  yam  mill. 


smaller.  This  fact  is  seen  from  the 
statement  that  the  large  shirt  manu- 
facturers are  buying  cloth  in  increas- 
ing amounts  from  grey  mills  and  then 
having  the  cloth  finished  at  a  regular 
finishing  plant,  whereas  formerly,  in 
some  cases,  they  bought  a  larg3  share 
of  the  product  of  shirting  mills. 

Many  instances  of  the  above  are  be- 
coming known,  and  it  is  certain  that 
shirt  makers  are  obtaining  their  cloth 
cheaper  than  ever,  or  if  not  cheaper, 
then  they  are  receiving  better  quality 


^6 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


for  the  same  price,  when  cloth  selling 
conditions  are  considered. 

Some  of  these  older  mills  are  rather 
skeptical  regarding  the  cloth  selling 
prices  in  these  lines,  and  claim 
cloths  cannot  be  made  for  the  prices 
at  which  they  are  sold,  but  the  fact 
remains  that  the  cloths  are  sold,  and 
mills  making  them  declare  good  divi- 
dends. Mills  making  cloths  of  this 
nature  have  no  dyehouses  and  usually 
have  the  yarn  dyed  at  a  dyeing  plant. 
Of  course,  this  costs  somewhat  more 
than  if  done  at  one's  own  plant,  but  it 
saves  the  outlay  for  a  dyehouse,  and 
as  the  amounts  used  are  not  large,  the 
added  cost  is  small,  as  far  as  the  cost 
of  producing  goes. 

Regarding  the  two  cloths  analyzed, 
it  can  be  stated  that  they  are  made  for 
various  purposes,  and  are  a  distinct 
improvement  on  some  of  the  past  fab- 
rics. They  will  be  used  to  quite  an 
extent  for  shirtings  for  men.  Some 
may  say  that  this  will  affect  the  sale 
of  regular  cloths  but  little,  yet  it  is 
believed  that  the  wear  will  be  sat- 
isfactory, and  it  is  very  likely  that 
they  will  displace  some  of  the  all-cot- 
ton fabrics.  Cloth  will  not  cost  a 
shirt  maker  over  75  cents  per  shirt, 
and  this  should  make  the  retail  price 
reasonable  to  many  men.  It  will  be 
seen  that  the  largest  item  in  produc- 
ing is  the  cost  of  the  silk.  This  is  al- 
most 12  cents  per  yard  or  over  one- 
hilf  the  total  cost. 

In  some  fabrics  a  lighter  silk  is 
used,  which  reduces  the  cost  some- 
what, but,  naturally,  this  silk  does  not 
wear  as  well.  It  is  to  be  noted  that 
there  is  quite  a  large  number  of  picks. 
When  fabrics  were  first  made  of  cot- 
ton and  silk,  the  above  count  was  used 
in  the  make-up,  but  the  picks  were 
gradually  reduced  to  96.  and  then  low- 
er, so  that  at  present  much  of  the 
plain  warp  variety  is  made  in  a  count 
of  96  by  76.  When  these  fabrics  were 
first  produced, 

THE  RETAIL  PRICE 

was    about    50    cents    for    a    cloth    26 
inches  wide. 

The  cloths  being  considered  are  36 
inches  wide,  and  not  only  this,  but 
they  have  color  in  the  warps,  and  the 
retail  price  is  but  45  cents.  This  does 
pot  mean  that  the  retail  price  Is  what 


it  should  be,  but  it  shows  that  there 
is  much  more  value  given  than  pre- 
viously. In  finishing,  the  cloth  is 
bleached,  and  when  it  is  stretched  and 
folded,  it  is  ready  to  ship.  Few  pat- 
terns are  being  sold  as  yet,  but  many 
are  being  made,  and  they  will  appear 
the  coming  spring.  Not  only  are  there 
stripes  like  the  samples,  bat 
similar  patterns  with  dobby  figures, 
also  checks  in  various  sizes  and  col- 
ors, with  woven  figures  in  both 
dobby  and  jacquard  ideas,  and  also 
many  styles  of  jacquard  designs. 
It  is  believed  many  cloths  of  this  na- 
ture will  be  sold  and  used. 

It  is  probably  true  that  many  fabrics 
for  ladies'  wear  will  not  have  as  large 
a  number  of  picks  as  the  samples  con- 
sidered, and  the  price  will  be  some- 
what less,  but  it  is  also  true  that  for 
men's  shirtings  a  firm  texture  is  nec- 
essary, and  it  is  believed  that  if  re- 
sults be  satisfactory,  the  number  of 
picks  should  not  be  much  lower  than 
those  considered.  In  weaving,  it  is 
necessary  to  keep  an  even  tension  on 
the  colored  yarn  beams,  for  if  this  is 
not  done,  the  smooth,  even  effect  is 
lost,  and  the  colored  yarn  will  pucker 
up  in  the  cloth,  sometimes  spoiling  the 
result.  No  change  is  necessary  to 
weave  such  fabrics  on  an  ordinary 
loom  except  a  shuttle  to  hold  the 
silk  quill  as  received  from  the  throw- 
ster. Percentages  of  production  are 
usually  as  large  or  larger  than  if  cot- 
ton filling  were  employed,  and  the 
number  of  looms  per  weaver  is  as 
large  as  on  fancy  weaves  in  all-cotton 
cloths. 

There  are  two  sizes  of  cotton  silk 
which  are  largely  used  by  cotton  mills, 
one  is  the  regular  14-16  two-thread 
quality  and  the  other  is  22-26  single 
Canton.  Both  are  used  for  the  same 
purposes,  and  the  22-26  single,  which 
is  somewhat  finer  and  also  cheaper,  is 
used  to  cheapen  the  designs  produced 
in  14-16  two-thread,  although  the  dif- 
ference in  costs  is  not  so  large  as 
might  be  thought.  We  have  uspd  in 
our  figures  a  yardaee  of  135  000  for 
14-16  two-thread.  This  is  not  the  the- 
oretical yardage,  but  Is  a  practical  fig- 
ure used  to  protect  the  manufacturer 
from  variation  in  silk  sizes.  It  is  to 
be  noted  that  finished  widths  in  these 
fabrics  are  about  as  wide  as  the  grey 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


237 


widths  from  the  looms.  The  shrinkage 
in  weaving  will  be  about  two  inches  in 
ordinary    cases,    but    the    number  of 


ing  operation  is  rather  slow,  orders 
must  be  placed  soon  or  deliveries  wil' 
be  too  late  for  the  coming  season. 


PATTEKN  BLUE  SAMPLE. 


60/1    American    combed 

30/1    American   combed   blue. 
30/3    American   carded 


2 

2 

12 

32 

1 

2 

1 

4 

1 

2 

32 

1 

12 

=  2,564 
=  276 
=         276 


69  X 
14/16  2  end  Canton  silk;   120  picks. 

PATTERN   HELIOTROPE   SAMPLE. 


60/1   Am.  c'mb|12 


30/1  Am.  c'mb 

heliotrope.  . 

30/3    Am.    c'rd 


|2 

1      1 

2 

12       i 

141^     (  ^(     l'?°l', 

S 

12 

12 

8 

16 

14 

6 

14 

12 

31         3 

3 

3 

1|         1 
1 

1 

1 

1 

4 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

121  =  2,808 


=      380 
=      138 


3  X 


3  X 


3,326 


23  X 
14/16   2   end   Canton  silk;    120   picks. 

44  reed,   38%"  width  in  reed,  36"  grey  width,  3%"  finished  width;   S6    X   120  grey  count  over 
all;   87    X    116   finished  count  over  all;    93    X    120  ground  count. 


YARNS. 


60/1  Am.  comb.,  1%"  sta. ;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 
30/1  Am.  comb.,  1^4"  sta.;  6  hank  dou.  rov., 
30/3  Am.  card.,    IVw"  sta.;     6  hank  dou.  rov., 


Cotton. 
24c. 
16c. 
14c. 


Labor  & 

waste. 

16  Vic 

8c. 

5%c. 


Twist- 
ing. 


Dyeing. 


14/16   2  end  Canton  silk;   135,000  yds.  per  lb.     On  quills; 

COST       BLUE   SAMPLE. 

2,564   ends,    60/1    Am.    combed +      6%   take-up   =   .0540    @    $  .40% 

276   ends,    30/1    Am.    combed   blue -|-    10%   take-up   =   .0122    @        .40 

276   ends,    30/3   Am.   carded 4-      2%   take-up   =   .0336    @        .23% 

120  picks,   14/16   2  end  Canton  silk =   .0340    @      3.50 

Weaving    , 

Expenses     


Selling 


Mill    cost    

Bleaching,    finishing,    etc. 


Finished  cost    

Yards  per  pound   =   7.47. 
Retail  price,    45c.   per  yard. 
Mill  price,   22 %c.   per  yard. 

cords  in  the  design  is  likely  to  affect 
each  result  somewhat. 

The  heavy  cords  are  reeded  one  in 
a  dent  in  both  fabrics,  while  the  col- 
ored and  ground  yarns  are  reeded 
two  in  a  dent.  The  threads  are  all 
woven  plain  in  these  cloths,  but  the 
effects  produced  are  distinctly  novel. 
Some  of  the  future  designs  which  are 
not  on  the  market  as  yet  show  not 
only  novel  effects  produced  with  col- 
ored yarn  and  cords,  but  also  many 
ingenious  adaptations  in  the  weaves 
used,  and  there  should  be  a  ready  sale 
for  much  of  this  cloth.    As  the  weav- 


$  .40% 
.40 
.23% 
3.50 


$  .0219 
.0049 
.0079 
.1190 
.0193 
.0251 

$  .1981 
.0040 

%  .2021 
.0150 

$  .2171 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

There  is  only  one  color  to  be  con- 
sidered in  this  fabric,  and  that  is  a 
lavender  shade  dyed  on  a  cotton  stripe 
In  the  warp.  For  the  dyeing  of  this 
color  it  is  recommended  to  use  sulphur 
dyestuffs,  as  these  will  stand  the  sub- 
sequent treatm.ent  given  the  fabric  for 
the  bleaching.  The  usual  run  of  di- 
rect cotton  dyes  would  not  be  satis- 
factory, for  this  fabric  after  being 
woven  is  bleached  in  a  solution  of  hy- 
drogen peroxide  for  the  purpose  of 
whitening  both  the  cotton  and  the  silk. 


28S 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


If  direct  cotton  dyes  were  employed  in 
this  case  the  color  would  bleed  to  a 
considerable  extent  onto  both  the 
white  cotton  warp  and  the  white  silk 
filling.  By  the  use  of  suitable  sulphur 
dyes,  however,  the  color  can  be  ob- 
tained  so  that  it  will  not  bleed  when 
bleached  in  the  hydrogen  peroxide 
bath.  For  the  production  of  this  lav- 
ender shade  the  dyeing  may  be  carried 
out  as  follows:  For  100  pounds  of  yarn 
use  a  bath  containing  1  pound  of  im- 
medial  violet  C  and  one  pound  of  sodi- 
um sulphide  crystals. 

Dye  for  one  hour  at  a  temperature 
of  160  to  180  degrees  Fahrenheit. 
While  with  the  majority  of  sulphur 
dyes  it  is  customary  to  add  to  the  dye- 
bath  soda  ash  and  also  a  considerable 
quantity  of  either  Glauber's  salt  or 
common  salt,  these  conditions  are  not 
to  be  recommended  in  the  case  of  dye- 
ing with  immedial  violet  C.  It  will 
also  be  noted  that 

THE  TEMPERATURE 
of  the  dye-bath  should  not  be  greater 
than  180  degrees  Fahrenheit.  This  is 
for  the  purpose  of  maintaining  the  full 
brilliancy  of  the  color.  After  the  yarn 
has  been  dyed  it  should  be  well  wash- 
ed off  in  fresh  water  and  then  washed 
off  in  a  second  bath  with  a  solution 
containing  one  ounce  of  soap  to  10  gal- 
lons of  water.  This  scouring  bath 
should  be  employed  at  a  temperature 
of  160  degrees  Fahrenheit.  The  yarn 
is  then  hydro-extracted  and  dried. 
The  fabric  after  weaving  is  given  a 
slight  bleaching  with  hydrogen  perox- 
ide. This  is  done  by  immersing  the 
cloth  in  a  solution  containing  1  gallon 
of  hydrogen  peroxide  (3  per  cent)  to 
10  gallons  of  water.  Sufficient  silicate 
of  soda  is  then  added  to  this  solution 
to  insure  the  bath  being  slightly  alka- 
line in  reaction.  The  bleaching  bath 
is  started  at  a  temperature  of  160  de- 
grees Fahrenheit,  and  the  goods  are 
left  submerged  therein  for  8  to  10 
hours,  or  most  conveniently  over- 
night. Sufficient  heat  is  left  on  the 
bath  during  this  time  to  keep  it  at  a 
temperature  of  about  100  degrees  Fah- 
renheit. After  bleaching,  the  goods 
are  removed  and  well  washed  In  soft 
water. 

This   sample  Is  very  similar  In   Its 
general    make-up     to    the    preceding 


sample.  There  is  only  one  color  to  be 
considered  and  that  is  the  light  blue 
dyed  on  the  stripe  in  the  cotton  warp. 
This  color  should  also  be  dyed  with 
the  sulphur  dyes  so  that  it  may  stand 
the  subsequent  bleaching  process  with 
hydrogen  peroxide.  In  order  to  pro- 
duce this  color  the  following  procedure 
is  recommended:  For  100  pounds  of 
yarn  use  a  bath  prepared  as  follows: 
One  pound,  2  ounces,  of  immedial  sky- 
blue  powder,  1  pound  sodium  sulphide 
crystals  and  8  ounces  of  soda  ash. 

To  the  above  should  also  be  added 
for  each  10  gallons  of  liquor  1% 
ounces  of  Turkey  red  oil  and  li/^ 
pounds  of  desiccated  Glauber's  salt. 
These  proportions  are  to  be  taken  for 
the  first  or  starting  bath  and  if  subse- 
quent lots  are  to  be  dyed  it  will  only 
require  about  two-thirds  the  amount 
of  dyestuffs  and  the  corresponding 
quantity  of  sodium  sulph-de,  while  the 
amount  of  soda  ash  can  be  reduced  to 
4  ounces,  Turkey  red  oil  to  1  ounce, 
and  the  Glauber's  salt  to  8  ounces,  the 
amounts  of  the  last  two  Ingredients 
being  based  on  10  gallons'  volume  of 
the  dye-bath.  The  immedial  sky-blue 
should  be  well  dissolved  by  boiling  up 
with  the  sodium  sulnhide  and  soda  ash 
previous  to  the  addition  of  these  in- 
gredients to  the  dve-b'^th.  A  pro- 
longed boiling  of  the  dyestuff  solution, 
however,  should  be  avoided,  as  it  is 
liable  to 

CAUSE  A  DECOMPOSITION 

of  the  coloring  matter.  The  dyeing 
should  be  carried  out  by  entering  the 
yarn  at  a  temperature  of  85  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  then  gradually  raising  the 
temperature  to  about  100  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  and  continuing  the  dyeing 
for  three-auarters  of  an  hour.  The 
yarn  should  then  be  taken  out  of  the 
dye-bath,  soueezed  and  hung  up  in  the 
air  for  about  an  hour  to  allow  for  the 
full  development  of  the  color.  It 
should  then  be  given  an  after-treat- 
ment in  a  fresh  bath  with  2  per  cent 
of  potassium  bichromate  and  3  per 
cent  of  acetic  acid.  After  this  the 
yarn  Is  once  again  well  rinsed  off  and 
finally  brightened  in  a  soap  bath  con- 
taining 1  ounce  of  scan  per  10  gallons 
of  water  at  a  temperature  of  160  de- 
grees Fahrenheit.  This  fabric  has 
also  been  bleached  in  the  piece  with 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


239 


hydrogen  peroxide  in  a  manner  similar 
to  that  of  the  foregoing  sample,  the 
bleaching  being  conducted  as  follows: 
Prepare  a  bath  containing  1  gallon 
of  hydiogen  peroxide  (3  per  cent)  to 
10  gallons  of  water  and  add  sufficient 
sodium  silicate  to  make  the  bath  dis- 
tinctly alkaline  in  reaction.  This 
bleaching  bath  is  started  at  a  temper- 
ature of  160  degrees  Fahrenheit.  The 
goods  are  entered  and  submerged  be- 
neath the  liquor  and  left  for  from  8 
to  10  hours  or  more  conveniently  over- 
night, sufficient  heat  being  left  on  the 
bath  to  maintain  its  temperature  at 
about  100  degrees  Fahrenheit.  After 
bleaching,  the  goods  are  removed  from 
the  bath  and  well  washed  in  soft 
water. 


CHECK  FLAXON 

The  fabrics  which  are  sold  under 
this  trade  name  are  used  largely  at 
present.  Styles  are  made  in  various 
patterns  and  counts,  but,  in  general, 
they  are  all  rather  light  cloths,  al- 
though some  of  the  fabrics  would  be 
designated  as  of  medium  weight. 
Many  uses  are  found  for  the  various 
lines,  such  as  waists  and  dresses,  and 
they  are  used  for  various  styles  of  em- 
broidery by  the  sellers  of  such  cloths. 

Buyers  had  an  idea  at  one  time  that 
the  fabrics  were  partly  of  linen,  and 
that  this  was  the  reason  for  their  high 
luster,  but  this  notion  Is  no  longer 
held,  for  the  cloths  are  of  cotton  whol- 
ly, and  the  finish  is  obtained  after  the 
cloth  is  woven.  Most  of  the 
grades  retail  at  twenty-five  cents 
per  yard.  There  is  ^-.n  agree- 
ment between  the  seller  and  the  job- 
bers that  no  cloth  will  be  sold  to  re- 
tailers over  the  jobbers'  heads,  so  re- 
tailers of  necessity  must  purchase 
from  jobbers.  There  Is  also  an  under- 
standing regardmg  prices,  and  the 
usual  allowance  is  made,  in  order 
that  the  jobber  can  sell  to  the  retailer 
at  a  price,  so  the  latter  will  sell  to 
the  consumer  at  25  cents  per  yard 
the  grades  which  are  supposed  to  be 
sold  at  this  price.  Few  retailers  are 
willing  to  depart  from  the  prices 
which  are  named,  for  it  is  more  than 
likely  that  no  more  cloth  can  be  ob- 


tained if  this  is  done.  There  has  been 
and  is  more  or  less  friction  regarding 
prices,  but  as  these  cloths  are  highly 
advertised,  and  as  ihey  are  good  sell- 
ers for  this  reason,  retailers  very  sel- 
dom break  the  prices  named. 

Possibly,  it  may  not  be  well  known, 
but  it  is  a  tact  that  on  light-weight 
fabrics  if  fine  yarns  be  uaed,  any 
woven  figure  will  not  show  up  well 
when  the  cloth  is  finished  unless  a 
different  process  be  employed  than  on 
ordinary  fabrics.  This  statement  also 
holds  true  on 

STRIPES  AND  CHECKS 
to  an  extent,  for  if  any  weave  is  em- 
ployed it  is  hardly  distinguishable 
unless  carefully  examined.  There 
would  be  no  object  in  using  a  weave 
under  such  conditions,  so  almost  all 
fabrics  with  a  fancy  weave  were  form- 
erly of  medium  or  of  rather  heavy 
weight.  This  was  done  so  that  when 
sold  the  weave  would  show.  Until 
the  method  now  employed  was  adopt- 
ed, or  at  least  a  similar  process,  few 
cloths  of  fine  yarn  had  any  weave  in 
their  construction  except  plain  weave. 
To-day,  there  are  many  fabrics  being 
sold  with  fine  yarns  and  woven  figures 
on  which  the  pattern  can  be  as  dis- 
tinctly seen  as  on  some  of  the  coarser 
cloths. 

This  result  is,  of  course,  done  In  the 
process  of  finishing.  The  fabric  when 
sold  has  a  gloss  which  brings  out  the 
woven  pattern,  and  a  crisp,  harsh  feel 
which  many  heavier  cloths  do  not 
have.  The  various  finishing  plants  do 
not  supply  information  regarding  the 
processes  used  in  finishing,  but  the 
probabilities  are  that  similar  methods 
are  employed  In  all  cases.  It  must 
not  be  thought  that  the  line  of  cloths 
referred  to  is  the  only  one  which  Is 
to-day  given  this  finish,  for  it  is  not 
and  many  houses  sell  similar  fabrics. 
It  can  be  stated  here  that  the  finish 
given  is  purely  a  finish,  and  a  large 
part  of  it  will  wash  out  when  the 
cloth  is  laundered. 

The  process  given  consists  of  first 
bleaching  the  fabric,  and  when  this  Is 
done,  together  with  various  prelim- 
inary processes,  the  fabric  Is  given  a 
mercerizing  similar  to  many  of  the 
heavier  cloths.  This  gives  a  small 
gloss  to  the  fine  yarn  used,  but  It  pr«- 


240 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


pares  a  foundation  for  the  following 
treatment.  This  consists  i  i  running 
the  cloth  through  a  solution  in  which 
there  is  a  transparent  gum  and  which 
gives  the  gloss  to  the  cloth  and  makes 
the  figure  stand  out  on  the  cloth.  The 
gum  also  gives  the  crisp  feel  which 
the  cloth  has.  No  heavy  calendering  is 
used,  for  this  would  be  likely  to  spoil 
the  effect  somewhat.  From  the  above 
it  can  be  seen  that  the  individual 
threads  are  more  or  less  similar  to 
small  glass  rods  when  the  process  is 
completed. 

As  is  well  known,  the  beauty  of  any 
fine  cloth  lies  in  the 

EVENNESS  OF  THE  YARN 
of   which  the  fabric  is  woven.     This 
is    illustrated    clearly    by    the    state- 
ment that  some  makers  of  fine  cloths 


follow.  One  thing  which  it  is  always 
necessary  to  do  in  making  any  kind 
of  a  fabric  is  to  have  the  yarn  strong 
enough  to  stand  the  strain  of  weaving. 
Some  yarns  will  weave  well  on  plain 
work,  but  will  break  when  quite  a 
number  of  harnesses  are  used,  and  for 
this  reason,  the  percentage  of  produc- 
tion will  be  low.  If  a  good  production 
be  obtained  on  plain,  and  a  poor  pro- 
duction on  fancy  patterns  with  the 
same  yarn,  it  should  be  investigated 
and  corrected  if  possible.  Some  pat- 
terns will  run  badly  in  any  case  be- 
cause of  the  weave  combinations  used 
or  the  crowding  of  ends,  but  the  high- 
est production  possible  should  be  aim- 
ed for. 

A     fact     which     is     not     generally 
known    is    that   yarn    will    run    satis- 


Check  Flaxon. 


have  a  hard  time  in  obtaining  market 
prices  for  their  fabrics,  while  others 
can  obtain  somewhat  more  than  the 
ruling  price.  The  difference  in  price 
is  largely  explained  by  the  difference 
in  yarn  quality.  The  quality  of  yarn 
being  dependent  somewhat  on  the  cot- 
ton used,  it  will  probably  be  true  that 
there  is  not  always  the  difference  in 
profit  which  is  believed  when  prices 
vary,  because  in  the  better  cloth  it  is 
likely  that  better  cotton  was  used,  al- 
though tliis  conclusion  does  not  always 


factorily  in  a  jacquard  pattern  which 
cannot  be  used  on  ordinary  dobby 
figures.  This  is  caused  by  the  fact 
that  the  variation  in  lift  from  front 
to  back  harness  on  the  jacquard  is 
less  than  that  on  the  dobby  harness, 
and  there  is  little  strain  on  the  yarn. 
A  better  percentage  of  production  will 
be  obtained  at  the  same  speed  on  a 
jacquard  than  on  a  dobby  pattern  if 
yarn  and  other  conditions  are  equal. 
The  number  of  looms  to  an 
operative      would      be    identical      in 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


241 


most  cases  on  jacquard  and  dobby 
work,  if  the  cloth  woven  were  of  sim- 
ilar construction.  Much  more  care 
is  necessary  in  the  making  of  fine 
cloth  than  in  the  manufacture  of 
coarse  fabrics,  for  many  times  cloth 
which  would  pass  as  a  first  would  be 
called  a  second  in  fine  woven  fabrics. 
As  seconds  are  sold  at  a  reduction  of 
5  per  cent  and  only  5  per  cent  of  sec- 
onds are  allowed  by  contract,  it  fol- 
lows that  a  mill  which  makes  a  larger 
proportion  of  seconds  than  this 
amount  stands  to  lose  more  than  their 
profit,  because  buyers  do  not  want 
them,  except  at  a  large  sacrifice,  and  if 
they  are  sold  for  a  reduction,  it  will  be 
likely  to  hurt  the  sale  of  the  original 
seller,  for  the  cloth  will  be  offered 
at  a  lower  price.  This  makes  the 
identical  cloth  on  the  market  for  two 
prices,  and  it  is  needless  to  say  that 
some  friction  is  likely  to  result. 

A  great  variety  of  patterns  are  pro- 
duced in  fine  fabrics.  Because  of  the 
yarn  used  many  of  the  most  salable 
styles  are  made  by  combinations  of 
different  sizes  of  yarns  in  checks  and 
stripes.  Instead  of  using  two  or  more 
sizes  of  yarns  it  is  sometimes  possible 
to  produce  the  same  effects  by  crowd- 
ing yarn   together.     Many   cloths  are 


made  which  have  heavy  v/oven  figures, 
which  are  sheared  off,  and  a  fine 
ground.  In  many  instances,  the  ef- 
fects are  produced  by  contrasts  with 
heavy  and  light  places  in  the  woven 
fabric. 

Yarns  and  cloth  are 

LIGHTER  WHEN  WOVEN 

and  finished  than  would  appear  if  the 
original  yarn  be  considered.  The  yarn 
loses  weight  in  handling  and  in  weav- 
ing, and  the  cloth  is  usually  pulled 
some  in  finishing.  Few  experiments 
which  are  accurate  have  ever  been 
made  along  these  lines.  Results  will 
vary,  depending  on  the  conditions  ex- 
isting in  both  weaving  and  finishing. 
Facts  are  known  more  accurately  in 
many  of  the  newer  fine  mills  than 
they  are  in  some  of  the  older  colored 
mills.  Possibly,  this  situation  has  de- 
veloped from  conditions  existing,  for 
in  colored  mills  yarns  are  usually  of 
few  sizes,  and  the  styling  is  done  by 
color  combinations,  while  in  grey  cloth 
where  woven  figures  are  used,  weave 
combinations  and  the  use  of  various 
sizes  of  yarns  give  the  results. 

The  selling  house  which  produced 
flaxon  also  produced  soiesette.  There 
is  no  doubt  that  the  making  of  cloths 


PATTERN. 


50/1    American    combed 20 

/O/l    American   combed 


2 

3     2 

3 

2 

20 

11 

1  12 

1 

9 

20 

100/1   American   combed  filling;   96  picks. 
38   reed;    35"   widtli    in    reed;    33"   grey   width;    32%' 
over  all;   122   X    94  finished  count  over  all. 


=      2,390 
=      1,540 


finished    width; 


3,930  total  ends. 
119    X    96    grey  count 


50/1   Am.   combed;   1%' 

70/1   Am.   combed;   1%' 

100/1   Am.   combed;   1%' 


YARNS. 

sta. ;  10  hanlt  double  roving, 
sta. ;  14  hanlt  double  roving, 
.sta. ;    22  hank  double  roving, 


Cotton. 
21c. 
24c. 
27c. 


Labor  &  waste. 
14%c. 
20M!C. 
34%c. 


35%c. 
44%c. 
61V4C. 


CO.ST. 

2,390   ends,    50/1   Am.    combed +    4%    take-up   =   .0593    ®    35Vic.      =  $  .0209 

1.540   ends.    70/1    Am.    combed +    5%   take-up   =   .0276    &    44>,4c.      =  .0123 

96  picks.    100/1    Am.   combed =   .0400    ©    61^c.      =  .0246 

Weaving    .0144 

Expenses     .0189 

%   .0911 

Finishing,    etc .0150 


Yards  per  pound,   7.88. 
Retnllers  price.    25c.    per  yard. 
Jobbers  price,   16Vic.   per  yard. 
Commission  price,  14%c.  per  yard. 
Mill  price,  about  12c.  per  yard. 


$  .1061 


242 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


for  mercerlzation,  of  which  the  above 
was  possibly  the  leader,  has  added 
a  large  field  to  the  making  of  fancy 
cloth.  The  sale  of  these  constructions, 
with  the  use  of  fast  colors  and  in 
various  fancy  weaves,  is  increasing 
rapidly,  and  is  displacing  many  of  the 
other  lines  used  for  similar  purposes. 
The  method  of  manufacture  has  re- 
sulted in  reductions  in  prices  which 
a  few  years  ago  would  have  seemed 
hardly  possible.  The  large  increase 
which  is  noted  in  the  work  done  by 
purely  finishing  plants  has  been  made 
possible  through  these  new  lines,  be- 
cause better  work  at  a  cheaper  cost 
can  be  produced.  Adaptation  of  new 
ideas  on  old  cloths  is  an  art  in  itself, 
and  almost  every  new  idea  evolves 
others,  so  that  the  industry  is  bound 
together  as  a  whole.  The  makers  who 
first  adopt  such  ideas  are  likely  to 
receive  large  rewards  in  the  way  of 
increased  business  and  profits,  and 
not  only  this,  but  there  is  much  good 
which  always  results  to  the  trade  in 
general  through  improved  cloths  or 
methods  of  making  and  finishing. 


SILK  MIXTURE  CROSS-DYED 
NOVELTY 

The  fabric  of  which  we  have  given 
the  analysis  is  one  which  many  of 
the  newer  cotton  mills  are  to-day 
making  in  quite  large  quantity.  These 
fabrics  are  finished  in  various  ways, 
but  the  larger  portion  are  dyed  solid 
shades.  Some  lines  of  these  cloths 
are  dyed  so  that  one  kind  of  yarn  will 
be  one  color,  while  the  other  yarn 
will  be  a  different  color.  This  gives 
what  is  called  a  cross-dyed  effect,  and 
the  sample  considered  is  one  of  these 
results,  though  in  the  cloth  in  ques- 
tion, the  warp  is  dyed  black,  while 
the  filling  remains  white.  It  is  a  fact 
that  raw  silk  will  in  most  cases  give 
better  results  than  if  spun  silk  be 
used.  The  new  combinations  which  are 
being  made  and  the  use  of  fast  colors 
to  stand  bleaching  on  cotton  and  silk 
have  added  much  variety  to  cloth 
production  in  grey  cloth  mills,  for  it 
is  now  possible  to  use  fast  colors  on 
yarn  In   weaving  grey  cloth,  and  to 


produce  some  lines  of  three-color  ef- 
fects. These  have  not  been  used 
largely  as  yet,  but  the  amount  pro- 
duced is  likely  to  increase.  Until  re- 
cently, it  was  necessary  to  use  dyed 
yarns  for  various  grades  of  cloth 
which  are  to-day  being  made  of  grey 
yarns  and  at  a  reduction  in  the  mill 
cost. 

SIZES  OF  YARN  USED. 

In  the  making  of  this  fabric,  a  num- 
ber of  sizes  of  yarns  were  used  for 
the  warp.  These  various  yarns  are 
run  on  one  beam  at  the  slasher. 
There  is  no  pattern  attempted,  and 
they  are  placed  in  a  hit  or  miss  ar- 
rangement. Some  have  never  been 
able  to  get  satisfactory  results  by 
using  various  sizes  of  yarn  from  the 
same  beam,  but  it  is  a  fact  that  many 
adopt  this  method  with  good  results 
and  a  decided  saving  in  trouble. 
Some  mills  are  in  the  habit  of  run- 
ning different  sizes  of  yarn  in  colors 
on  the  same  beam,  but  this  process 
requires  care,  especially  on  some  pat- 
terns. The  majority  of  cloths  made 
in  plain  warps  have  40-1  yarn,  in  fa  t, 
this  cloth  is  more  or  less  standard, 
but  each  mill  makes  a  different  com- 
bination when  a  novelty  warp  is  used. 
Some  use  three  sizes  of  yarn,  with 
60-1,  30-1  and  30-2  mixed,  while  others 
use  four  grades  of  yarn  in  various 
sizes.  Most  combinations  have  two- 
ply  yarn  to  an  extent,  but  some  like 
sample  are  made  entirely  of  single 
yarn.  This  method  makes  the  cost  of 
production  somewhat  less.  One  thing 
which  is  noticed  is  that  when  novelty 
warps  are  used,  the  picks  per  inch  are 
usually  less.  This  is  possible,  because 
the  larger  siz^s  of  yarn  used  tend  to 
make  the  cloth  firmer.  Sometimes, 
there  is  a  ground  weave  used  in  mak- 
ing up  p-atterns  for  this  class  of  cloths. 
What  are  called  slash-lines  are  placed 
Indiscriminately  over  the  ground,  and 
this  process  adds  to  the  novelty  of 
the  cloth  produced.  To-day,  there  Is 
an  enormous  amount  of  these  fabrics 
produced,  and  few  realize  the  extent 
to  which  they  are  used. 

THE  RETAIL  PRICE 
Is    at    present    less    than    half    what 
it     formerly     was.       It     is     well     to 
make  note  of  the  fact  that  the  cost 
price  given  is  based  on  to-day's  basis. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


243 


Not  only  has  the  Tussah  silk  decliaed 
much  in  price,  but  cotton  is  also 
lower,  so  cloth  which  sold  last  year 
for  14  to  141/^  cents  per  yard  is  at  a 
lower  price  to-day.  Many  buyers 
have  cloth  of  this  nature  on  hand,  and 
they  should  dispose  of  it  to  retailers 
so  that  losses  will  not  be  sustained,  for 
the  new  product  can  be  sold  at  a  re- 
duction on  former  prices.  It  is  cer- 
tain that  there  will  be  a  regular  de- 
mand for  fabrics  of  this  general  na- 
ture. Orders  are  for  quite  large 
quantities  of  cloth  in  comparison  with 
some  other  fancy  lines,  but  there  are 
various  patterns  applied  to  the  same 


livered  by  silk  throwsters,  and  at 
other  times  an  ordinary  shuttle  is 
used,  and  the  filling  quilled  onto  or- 
dinary cize  cotton  bobbins.  In  either 
case,  the  production  should  be  as  large 
or  larger  than  for  ordinary  cotton 
shirtings. 

IN  ANALYZING  ANY  FABRIC 

with  various  sizes  of  yarn  it  is  a  hard 
operation  to  obtain  the  number  of  ends 
and  the  sizes  of  the  yarns  employed 
in  the  warps.  If  yarn  is  used  in 
stripes  or  in  a  regular  pattern,  the 
process  is  much  simplified,  but  where 
the  hit  or  miss  system  is  used,  exact 


Silk    Mixture   Cross-Dyed    Novelty. 


construction.  I*  is  on  such  a  cloth  as 
this  that  buyers  are  apt  to  make 
changes  in  patterns,  and  cause  trouble 
at  the  mills  when  cloth  is  in  the 
looms.  In  nearly  all  cases,  a  buyer 
will  want  sample  pieces,  and  the  mak- 
ing of  these  will  eat  up  sometimes 
much  of  the  apparent  profit  which  a 
mill  makes  on  the  sale.  Profits  form- 
erly were  large  on  these  cloths,  but 
to-day  a  mill  obtains  no  larger  amount 
than  for  other  regular  lines,  the  mar- 
gin of  profit  being  close  and  the  total 
made  varying  with  the  eflRciency  of 
operation.  No  difficulty  is  experi- 
enced in  making  cloths  of  this  char- 
acter on  ordinary  Jacnuard  shirting 
looms.  Sometimes  a  shuttle  is  used 
which  will    hold    small    quills  as  de- 


results  cannot  be  obtained.  For  this 
reason,  manufacturers  use  their  own 
combinations  of  yarn  in  duplicating 
other  cloths. 

Fabrics  are  usually  made  on  either 
400  or  600  jacquard  looms,  on  which 
the  tie-up  is  about  100  to  120  per  inch. 
The  width  of  pattern  and  ends  per 
inch  will  vary  somewhat,  but  the 
above  will  be  true  in  most  cases.  In 
the  cloth  analyzed  it  was  probable 
that  the  pattern  was  made  on  a  600- 
machine,  which  was  tied-up  120  per 
inch,  giving  a  pattern  width  of  5 
Inches.  600  divided  by  120  equals 
5  inches.  The  width  of  pattern  In 
the  finished  cloth  will  depend  on  the 
amount  which  the  cloth  shrinks  In 
weaving   and   also   In    finishing.      In 


244 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


many  instances,  this  shrinkage  will  be 
from  7  to  10  per  cent,  although  various 
fabrics  will  shrink  less,  and  some 
even  more,  than  the  above  amounts.  It 
is  a  fact  that  many  designers  have 
tried  to  convince  buyers  that  stripes 
and  other  variations  in  patterns  could 
not  be  produced  on  regular  jacquards, 
claiming  a  special  tie-up  was  neces- 
sary, but  it  will  be  found  on  investi- 
gation that  a  very  large  percentage  of 
such  patterns  are  produced  on  reg- 
ular tie-ups.  It  would  give  many  of 
such  men  a  cold  shock  if  they  knew 
that  in  some  mills  to-day  there 
are  many  bordered  patterns  being  pro- 
duced on  regular  machines,  and  with 
no  extra  dobby  harnesses  used  either. 
Of  course,  there  is  a  limit  to  the  pat- 
tern which  can  be  produced,  but  it  is 
done,  and  to  the  buyer's  satisfaction 
too.  It  requires  a  thorough  knowledge 
of  patterns  and  methods  employed 
to  produce  them,  also  a  keen  insight 
for  adapting  cloths  to  conditions  ex- 
isting, but  fabrics  have  been  and  are 
being  produced  along  these  lines,  and 
they  are  practical  running  jobs  too. 
This  shows  how  narrow  some  will  be- 
come when  their  product  is  confined  to 
a  few  lines  of  staple  cloths.  To  have 
a  knowledge  of  manufacturing  and 
adaptability,  it  is  necessary  for  a  de- 
signer to  be  acquainted  with  the  de- 
signing and  making  of  many  various 
cloth  constructions,  for  it  is  only  by 
this  method  that  a  general  and  accu- 
rate knowledge  can  be  obtained. 
Men  become  narrow  and  fall  into  a 
rut  when  new  and  trying  problems 
are  not  continually  met  and  solved. 
The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  CLOTH 
Is  found  in  the  usual  manner.  If  this 
weight  be  compared  with  the  original 
grey  weight,  it  will  be  found  that  the 
cloth  is  much  lighter  when  finished. 
This  ip  due  to  a  number  of  reasons, 
among  which  are  the  facts  that  the 
silk  is  lighter  bf^cause  of  the 
bleaching  and  boiling  out,  the 
cotton  is  lighter  due  to  handling, 
and  there  is  a  certain  stretch 
in  finishing  whifh  gives  more  vfirds 
of  cloth  than  when  the  cloth  is  first 
woven.  In  dyed  varn  manv  mpn  have 
been  in  the  habit  of  assuming  that 
the  weight  added  by  dyeing  just  about 


balanced  with  the  weight  lost  in 
handling;  that  is,  dyed  yarn  in  a  fin- 
ished fabric  was  about  the  same  size 
as  it  was  previous  to  dyeing,  warp- 
ing, spooling,  slashing  and  weaving, 
but  this  is  not  true  in  the  majority 
of  cases,  for  the  dyed  yarn  will  be 
finer  than  it  was  when  made.  In 
cloth  analysis,  there  have  been  many 
facts  assumed  which  do  not  hold  true. 
It  is  only  within  a  short  time  that 
any  accurate  tests  have  been  made 
regarding  manufactured  and  finished 
cloth,  and  few  men  have  ever  been 
in  positions  to  make  tests  on  both 
fabrics  which  would  be  accurate,  be- 
cause it  requires  a  whole  series  of 
experiments  on  identical  cloths  to  es- 
tablish facts,  and  even  then,  results 
may  vary  in  the  different  finishing 
plants.  To  treat  all  cloths  in  the 
same  class  and  assume  the  figures  are 
correct  as  has  been  done  in  the  past 
is  entirely  wrong.  Not  only  has  the 
above  been  done,  but  many  have  also 
assumed  that  the  weights  given  in  any 
finished  cloth  should  be  practically 
identical  with  the  grey  or  mill 
weights.  A  few  experiments  on 
identical  cloths  would  show  how  falla- 
cious this  theory  is,  especially  in  the 
fabrics  made  by  the  newer  mills.  To 
get  any  figures  which  a^e  reliable, 
experiments  should  be  made  freely  at 
various  stages  until  cloth  is  finished. 
This  is  not  done  to  any  extent  by 
manufacturers,  and.  of  course,  buyers 
care  but  little  for  such  details, 
and  it  is  known  that  many  of  the  re- 
sults which  are  assumed  are  given 
by  analysts,  who  compare  similar  fab- 
rics, but  as  sta^^ed  above,  such  re- 
sults are  unreliable.  To  have  facts 
correct,  a  man  must  know  much  prac- 
tical manufartiiring  detail,  and  then 
bv  rorrect  theory  establish  results 
whifh  will  prove  useful.  Accurate 
statements  cannot  be  obtained  unless 
theoretical  and  practical  knowledge 
be  combined. 

INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  DYEING. 
The  onlv  color  to  b^^  considered  in 
this  samnle  is  the  black  dyed  on  the 
cotton  warp.  In  the  nrenaration  of 
this  fabric  it  is  not  dpsired  to  have 
a  vprv  full  shnde  of  black,  as  this 
would  take  away  from  the  general 
color  value  of  the  woven  fabric.    This 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


245 


warp  is   dyed   In   the  sizing  and  the  neous  solution  is  obtained.     The  cot- 
following  procedure  is  recommended:  ton  warp  is  dyed  in  this  size  by  pass- 
Use  three  pounds    of    oxy    diamine  *^f,  ^^""T^.^v.  ^    -'^^  box  and    squeeze 
F""  uo    vyi.    w  J.  j.pjjg  ^^^  ^j^gjj  jg  carried  directly  on 

black  AW,  one-quarter  pound  diamine  to  the  dryer,  which  may  be  either  the 

fast  yellow  A,  and  10  gallons  of  boil-  ordinary    slasher    warp    machine    or 

ing  water.  through  the  more  recent  form  of  hot 

When  the  dyestuffs  have  been  thor-  air  warp  dryer.    This  method  of  dye- 

oughly  dissolved,  cool  the  solution  to  ing  is  very  cheap  and  economical,  and 

140  degrees  Fahrenheit  and  then  mix  though  it  does    not    yield    very  high- 

with  10  gallons  of  size.     This  size  is  class  colors  with  respect  to  penetra- 

prepared  by  using  120  gallons  of  wat-  tion,   beauty  of  shade,  or  fastness  to 

er,  80  pounds  of  starch,  20  pounds  of  the  various  agencies,  nevertheless,  for 

dextrine  and  20  pounds  of  Turkey  red  the    fabric    under    consideration,    this 

oil.     These  ingredients  are  boiled  up  process  gives  a  color  amply  sufficient 

together  until  a  thoroughly   homoge-  for  its  needs. 

PATTERN. 

40/1    American  carded           12                               2  1'=  1,106 

30/1   American  carded           >          —                            - —  <           =  590 

10/1   American  carded           J           16          1,840          16  [           =  208 

1,904   total  ends. 
32/38  2  end  tuss.-ih  tram  filling;   64  picks. 

33    reed.    28%"   width    in   reed,    26"    grey    width,    26"    finished    width;    72    X     64    grey    count; 
72    X    60  finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton.  Labor,  waste, 

40/1    Am.    carded,    1%"   staple,    8  hank  double  roving,  16c.  7%c.  =    $   .23% 

30/1    Am.    carded,    IVio"   staple.    6  hank  double  roving,  14c.  S^c.  =        .19Vi 

10/1    Am.    carded,    1"        staple.   2  hank  double  roving,  lie.  214c.  =        .13  Vi 

32/38   2  end  tussah  silk,   55,000  yards  per  pound.     On   quills  =      1.75 

COST. 

1,106    ends,    40/1    American    carded +    6%   take-up   =   .0350   @    %  .23%      =   $   .0083 

590    ends,    30/1    American    carded -f    6%   take-up   =  .0249    @        .19%      =  .0048 

208    ends,    10/1    American    carded -|-    6%   take-up   =   .0264    @        .13i^      =  .0036 

64   picks,    32/38    2   end  tussah   silk =   .0330    @      1.75  =  .0578 

Weaving     .0135 

Expenses     .0176 

Jacquard   cards    .0004 

$   .1060 
Selling     .0021 

Mill  cost   S   .1081 

Finishing,    dyeing,    etc .0250 

Finished   cost    $  .1331 

Yards  per   pound.   8.38. 

Retail   price,   30c. 

Mill  selling  price,   14   to  14V2C.   when  this  cloth  was  bought. 


COTTON  SUEDE 

This  fabric  is  the  one  which  is 
creating  a  large  amount  of  interest 
at  present  in  the  market.  Many  ex- 
pressions have  been  heard  regarding 
the  cloth  and  the  finish  applied.  Most 
of  the  cloth  seen  up  to  the  present 
time  has  been  imported,  and  is  sell- 
ing for  about  $1.50  per  yard.  There 
are  many  sellers  in  the  market,  who, 
from  appearances,  seem  to  try  to 
create  the  Impression  that  no  cloth  of 


any  value  can  be  made  or  finished  in 
America  satisfactorily.  If  there  is 
anything  which  they  can  say  against 
cloth  of  domestic  production,  it  is 
stated  as  strongly  as  possible.  This 
has  been  done  on  the  cloth  in  ques- 
tion, and  has  also  been  done  on  the 
new  toweling  fabrics,  when  the  facts 
are  that  the  fabrics  can  be  made  sat- 
isfactorily, and  much  cheaper  here 
than  they  can  be  imported.  From  in- 
stances which  come  to  light  some- 
times, it  is  wondered  whether  some  of 
the  domestic  product  is  not  used  as 


246 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


imported  by  these  same  sellers. 

This  cloth  is  a  domestic  article.  It 
is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  few 
mills  care  to  make  the  cloth,  for  it  is 
exceptional  in  a  number  of  ways. 
First,  the  yarns  are  much  finer  than 
many  mills  care  to  make,  as  they 
are  about  90-2.  Second,  the  count  is 
high,  both  in  warp  and  filling,  name- 
ly 132  by  188.  Third,  the  weave  is 
one  seldom  seen  on  cotton  cloth,  as 
it  is  a  sort  of  double  cloth,  the  face 
and  back  weave  being  a  four- 
harness  broken  twill.  There  are  no 
extra  threads  used  in  making  the 
weave,  but  the  effect  is  similar  to  a 
double  cloth,  although  it  is  not  one 
strictly  speaking. 

The  price  quoted  for  this  cloth  is 
32  cents  per  yard.  Under  the  circum- 
stances, this  price  seems  to  reflect 

VERY  POOR  MERCHANDISING, 
for  a  larger  amount  should  be  ob- 
tained for  a  number  of  reasons.  One 
is  that  this  fabric  is  distinctly  a  nov- 
elty of  the  highest  order,  another  is 
that  the  profit  secured  is  not  large,  as 
will  be  explained  later,  while  most  im- 
portant is  the  fact  that  this  cloth  will 
probably  be  sold  as  imported  and  is 
now  retailing  at  about  $1.50  per  yard. 
There  will  be  little  competition  on 
this  fabric  as  made,  and  it  is  thought 
a  higher  price  should  be  obtained  than 
has  been  asked.  Cheap  imitations  of 
this  cloth  cannot  be  produced  for  the 
fine  yarns  used,  and  the  high  count, 
together  with  the  finish,  do  net  admit 
large  possibilities  in  this  direction. 
From  our  analysis,  it  will  be  seen  that 
the  cost  of  production  is  about  28 
cents  per  yard,  while  the  selling  price 
is  32  cents  per  yard,  or  a  nrofit  of 
About  four  cents  per  yard.  This  cloth 
has  188  picks  per  inch,  and  the  pro- 
duction is  very  low,  and  under  the 
conditions,  the  profit  would  not  be 
over  $2.50  per  loom  per  week,  or  a 
profit  of  about  $125  per  loom  per  year. 
This  might  give  a  profit  of  somewhat 
over  10  per  cent  on  capital  invested, 

but   this    is    not   prmno-h    for   thP    r^^r'1r.- 

ter  of  fabric.  There  is  more  ability 
required  to  makp  this  cloth  than  the 
toweling  fabric  beii?  sold,  and  It  is 
known  that  cloth  of  this  nature  has 
been  sold  recently  at  less  than  15 
cents  per  yard,  and  a  profit  of  over 


$10  per  loom  per  week  obtained,  or  a 
rate  of  profit  of  over  $500  per  loom 
ptr  year.  'Ihe  prices  of  the  cotton 
suede  and  toweling  cloths  are  identi- 
cal at  retail,  and  without  question,  the 
cost  of  producing  the  suede  is  twice 
lli..t  01  the  tcwfcllng,  sj  we  are  iree 
to  admit  a  mistake  was  made  when 
no  more  was  charged  than  32  cents 
for  the  quality  o.  su  do  offered;  in 
fact,  it  is  doubted  whether  the  ma- 
jority of  fine  mills  which  could  make 
this  cloth  could  do  it  as  low  as  we 
have  figured,  that  is,  and  produce  a 
good  result,  and  a  low  percentage  of 
seconds. 

There  is  no  need  of  showing  a  draw- 
ing-in  draft,  as  the  warp  would  prob- 
ably be  drawn  in  straight  on  eight 
harnesses,  although  the  weave  ac- 
tually takes  but  four.  The  selvages 
would  be  made  on  two  extra  har- 
nesses.    We  give  the  weave  so  that 

The  Weave. 

DDBCDDBn 
DaaBDvBB 

Dnn?.  DDDB 
BBOBBBGa 

□■nnnBon 

R->Ba!>sBBn 

BDoaBnnn 

the  arrangement  can  be  noted.  The 
second,  fourth,  sixth  and  eighth  picks 
represent  the  filling  which  shows  on 
the  back  of  the  cloth,  while  the  re- 
maining picks  show  on  the  face.  We 
have  no  doubt  that  claims  made  that 
the  unsatisfactory  finish  produced  is 
due  to  poor  manufacture  or  cloth  con- 
struction is  true  in  some  instances,  for 
the  cloth  weave  and  yarns  have  much 
to  do  with  good  finished  results. 

Cloths  of  this  character  are  prac- 
tically always 

WOVEN  IN  THE  GREY 

state  and  then  bleached  and  dyed,  for 
bleached  yarns  are  seldom  used,  and 
if  they  are  the  cost  of  manufacture  is 
too  high  to  be  practical. 

As  yet,  we  have  seen  none  of  this 
kind  of  cloth  which  has  been  woven 
on  a  jacouard  loom  with  a  fancy  pat- 
tern. There  is  a  possibility  of  this 
development  being  a  good  thing,  for 
the  ground  cloth  could  be  made  like 
gT-f-TiV.  Rv-^  h^cvpe  of  the  lii^-h  count 
used,  beautiful  patterns  could  be  made 
in  a  subdued  effect.  This  would  ap- 
peal to  many  consumers.     Regarding 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Ut 


the  cloth  as  sold  at  present,  we  are 
free  to  say  that  it  is  one  of  the  best 
appearing,  and  has  more  quality  than 
very  many  of  the  various  fabrics  of- 
fered in  recent  years.  Of  course, 
whether  a  large  sale  will  result  or 
not  is  largely  a  matter  of  conjecture, 
but  one  thing  is  certain,  and  this 
Is  that  the  price  will  never  be  as 
low  as  on  ordinary  lines,  and  it  is 
doubted  greatly  whether  it  will  sell 
later  at  less  than  $1  per  yard  at  re- 
tail, even  of  domestic  make.  There 
never  will  be  a  large  supply,  no  mat- 
ter how  large  the  demand  gets,  for  to 
have  the  result  satisfactory  quality 
must  be  put  into  the  cloth,  and  there 
are  comparatively  few  mills  which 
can  produce  this  quality.  Possibly 
one  dozen  mills  would  complete  the 
list  which  could  make  this  cloth  in 
quantity  to  sell  at  32  cents  per  yard 
and  realize  a  profit.  Because  of  slow 
production,  the  cloth  will  tie  up  a 
loom  for  quite  a  time.  It  may  be  that 
this  seller  was  willing  to  quote  this 
low  price  because  of  the  lack  of  or- 
ders for  fine  cloth,  and  desired  to  get 
work  to  keep  looms  in  operation, 
which  this  cloth  would  do  to  anyone's 
satisfaction,  but  the  fact  remains  that 
probably  a  price  could  have  been  ob- 
tained which  would  approach  40  cents 
per  yard  just  as  easily  as  32  cents 
could. 

Regarding  the  imported  prices  and 
those  of  domestic  make  it  is  a  known 
fact  that  en  certain  fine  cloths,  quota- 
tions have  been  asked  for  on  cloth 
made  in  this  country  of  foreign  mills, 
and  the  prices  quoted  in  many  in- 
stances are  but  from  3  to  10  per  cent 
lower  than  that  at  which  mills  have 
sold  the  cloth  here,  and  carrying 
charges  will  range  about  4  or  5  per 
cent,  so  it  can  readily  be  seen  what 
economies  the  domestic  manufac- 
turer adopts. 

From  observation,  it  seems  as  if 
merchandising  was  the  large  item 
which  needed  to  be  watched  care- 
fully by  many  mills  selling  fine  and 
fancy  cloth.  It  is  known  that  many 
of  the  newer  fine  and  fancy  mills  are 
operated  about  as  closely  ai  is  pos- 


sible, so  far  as  actual  manufacturing 
is  concerned.  The  Interchange  of 
ideas  and  prices  among  the  cloth 
brokers  and  the  system  of  selling  In 
many  cases  operate  against  the  mill 
obtaining  the  legitimate  recompense 
for  initiative  and  ability.  Many 
times  buyers  would  have  willingly 
paid  higher  prices  excepting  for 
the  fact  that  they  were  posted 
regarding  prices  by  intermediates. 
This  only  added  to  the  buyer's  profits 
what  should  have  gone  to  the  maker, 
for  prices  to  the  retailer  or  jobber 
are  never  changed  by  such  a  lower- 
ing of  prices.  We  have  seen  In- 
stances where  makers  have  been  de- 
prived of  a  fair  profit  when  there 
should  have  been  a  fair  profit  for  all 
concerned.  Manufacturing  has  been 
reduced  to  a  very  scientific  process, 
and  costs  of  making  are  known  pretty 
accurately,  yet  while  manufacturing 
has  been  getting  on  a  closer  basis, 
merchandising  has  been  getting  more 
expensive.  A  little  of  the  accuracy 
which  is  employed  by  mills  injected 
into  some  of  the  methods  of  selling 
would  work  wonders  in  the  trade. 
There  is  no  question  but  that  selling 
has  run  into  a  very  bad  nit,  and  It 
will  require  time  and  almost  a  revolu- 
tion to  put  it  on  a  better  or  different 
basis.  We  believe  the  men  who  have 
shown  such  ability  in  the  economies 
of  manufacture  are  fully  capable  of 
showing  new  ideas  in  selling,  and 
that  to  obtain  a  more  regular  profit 
anr]  to  be  dictated  to  less  by  buyers, 
mills  must  eventually  have  more  pow- 
er than  they  at  present  have.  Con- 
solidation of  interests  must  be  effected 
in  some  manner  to  put  manufacturing 
on  more  stable  basis.  The  method 
of  obtaining  the  weights  and  yards 
per  pound  is  as  follows: 

3.060    ends    h-    (90/2    X     840)    =   .1048.    warp 

veierht    without    tfike-up    In    weaving. 
AVo-iving   take-up   12%. 
.1048    -h   .88   =   .1191,   total   warp  weight   In    1 

v.T'l   of  r'oth. 
1S8  picks  X  33"  loom  width  X  36" 

=■        6.204 

36" 

vnrds    of   filling   per   yard. 
6.204    -!-    (90/2    X    840)    =    .1641.   total    filling 

weight   In    1   yard   of  cloth. 
.1191   4-  .1641  —  .2832.  total  weight  per  yard. 
1.0000   -4-   .3813   ••   8.63   yards   p*r   pound. 


A.   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

90/2   Sea  Island  24        3,864        24  =     3,960   total   ends. 

90/2  Sea  Island  filling;   1S8  picks. 

60  reed,  33"  width  in  reed,   31"  grey  width,   30"   finished  width;   132    X    188   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton,  waste.      Twisting. 

90/2  Sea  Island;   1%"  staple;   18  hank  double  roving,        28c.  32c.  7c.        =     67c. 

90/2  Sea  Island  filling.     Same  as  warp.  =      67c. 

COST. 

3,960  ends,  90/2  Sea  Island   +    12%   take-up =   .1191   @    67c.      =   $  .0798 

188  picks,   90/2   Sea  Island =   .1641    @    67c.      =       .1104 

Weaving    .0452 

Expenses    .0394 

$   .2748 
Selling     .0055 

Grey  cost    $  .2803 

Dyeing,    finishing,     etc .0200 

Finished   cost    %  .3003 

Yards  per  pound,   3.53. 

Mill  price,  32c.  per  yard. 

Retail  price  for  similar  fabrics,    $1.50   per  yard    (Imported). 


RUSSIAN  CORD  VOILE 

We  have  in  the  past  analyzed  va- 
rious patterns  on  voile  cloths.  Inas- 
much as  these  fabrics  will  be  used 
more  largely  than  any  other  the  com- 
ing summer,  it  may  be  well  to  add 
another  novel  combination  to  the 
ones  already  given.  This  cloth  is 
made  with  a  voile  ground  which  is 
exceptional  for  the  reason  that  the 
yarns  used  are  of  fine  character, 
namely,  120s-2,  and  few  mills  in 
America  could  make  them  in  any 
quantity.  Cloths  of  this  character  are 
used  for  various  purposes,  and  all 
have  a  rather  low  count.  The  ma- 
jority use  yarn  up  to  60s-2  and  a 
count  of  about  50  square,  although 
some  mills  make  finer  yarn  with  a 
somewhat  closer  count.  Many  of  the 
patterns  being  offered  at  present  have 
silk  for  decorative  purposes,  and  this 
gives  an  added  attractiveness  for  a 
comparatively  small  added  expense. 
In  some  instances,  artificial  silk  is  be- 
ing used  for  this  purpose  instead  of 
the  real  article,  and  results  are  very 
satisfactory,  although  for  other  pur- 
poses it  does  not  have  such  a  large 
success.     In 

THE   CONSTRUCTION 
of  a  voile   cloth   much   ability   is   re- 
quired to  get  the  best  appearance.     It 
is   necessary   to  have  the   cloth  open 
and  still  not  slip  badly.    There  is  one 


thing  which  helps  largely  in  producing 
a  good  voile,  and  this  is  good  yarn. 
If  yarn  is  poor,  no  weaving  or  finish- 
ing will  give  the  result  wanted.  The 
yarn  is  not  ordinary  two-ply,  but  it  is 
two-ply  with  a  much  harder  twist  than 
is  usually  given.  This  makes  a 
smooth,  round  thread  and  gives  a  clear 
looking  cloth.  Some  makers  use  gass- 
ed yarn,  which  ensures  an  added 
smoothness  to  the  result.  The  yarn 
made  determines  to  an  extent  the 
count  necessary  to  secure  satisfactory 
woven  cloth.  The  standard  of  twist 
given  the  two-ply  yarn  will  vary  from 
about  6  to  8.  In  twisting,  the  hard 
yarn  is  likely  to  cut  the  travelers  and 
cause  trouble.  Some  mills  have  twist- 
ed their  ply  yarns  on  regular  spinning 
frames  and  secured  better  results,  for 
the  rings  are  smaller,  and  not  only 
this,  but  the  ply  yarn  used  for  filling  is 
ready  for  the  loom  when  twisted,  with 
no  additional  processes,  which  are  nec- 
essary if  twisted  on  a  regular  twister. 

ENAMELED  BOBBINS 
can  be  used,  the  yarn  being  steamed 
and  a   saving   made   in  time  and   ex- 
pense. 

These  fabrics,  contrary  to  the  be- 
lief of  many,  are  not  so  expensive  to 
make  as  would  appear,  for  the  count 
is  usually  low,  the  cloth  weight  light 
and  the  production  comparatively 
large  per  loom.  For  this  last  reason, 
a  smaller  profit  per  yard  will  yield  a 
better  return  than  on  many  other  lines 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


249 


of  lancy  fabrics.  Most  of  the  various 
lines  of  voile  cloths  are  made  from 
grey  yarns,  and  the  fabrics  are  finished 
when  woven.  There  are  a  few  voiles 
made  of  bleached  and  dyed  yarns,  but 
they  have  been  constructed  this  way 
to  produce  certain  results.  If  two 
fabrics  could  be  made  so  that  the  re- 
sults would  be  the  same  when  finish- 
ed it  would  be  found  that  the  use 
of  grey  yams  would  produce  the  low- 
est cost  of  manufacturing.  There  is 
no  doubt  but  that  this  method  of  mak- 


have  thought  there  was  little  compe- 
tition in  the  making  of  fancy  fabrics, 
but  they  were  never  more  mistaken, 
for  competition  is  sharper  on 
some  of  these  cloths  than  on  some 
of   the   coarser    better-known   lines. 

Many  of  the  fabrics  being  sold  have 
silk  stripes  of  varying  widths  in  their 
make-up,  and  they  are  woven  on  jac- 
quard  looms.  Few  of  the  patterns  are 
made  on  dobby  looms,  for  it  requires 
quite  a  few  harnesses  to  produce  any 
satisfactory  figure  on  a  closely  woven 


Russian    Cord    Voile. 


Ing  cloth  Is  driving  orders  from  many 
of  the  older  mills. 

The  cloths  we  are  considering  could 
be  made  in 

THREE   METHODS: 

First,  by  using  bleached  and  dyed 
yams.  Second,  by  using  grey  cotton 
yams  and  fast  colored  silk  to  stand 
the  bleaching  process.  Third,  by  using 
grrey  cotton  yarns  and  raw  silk  and 
then  bleaching  and  cross-dyeing  the 
result.  Possibly,  the  last  mentioned 
n^ethod  is  the  more  common  one  on 
this  identical  cloth,  and  it  would  prob 
ably  give  the  cheapest  cost  price.  In 
these  days  of  competition,  the  one 
who  produces  a  certain  effect  for  the 
lowest  price  gets  the  business.    Many 


silk  stripe.  This  brings  us  to  the  item 
of  interest  in  the  cloth  we  are  con- 
sidering. This  fabric  is  made  on  an 
ordinary  dobby  loom,  and  requires  few 
harnesses  to  weave.     It  is 

A  COMBINATION 
of  the  weave  which  was  popular  fot 
men's  shirtings  last  season  and  which 
is  being  used  extensively  at  present 
with  the  voile  ground.  This  is  what  is 
called  a  Russian  cord.  It  consists  of 
a  cord  of  a  more  or  less  heavy  nature 
and  a  leno  end  which  crosses  back 
and  forth  every  pick,  effectually  cov- 
ering the  cord  underneath.  Some- 
times this  crossing  end  is  of  grey 
yarn,  while  other  times  it  is  of  silk 
similar  to  sample,  and  in  still  other  In- 


260 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAPl 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


251 


stances.  It  Is  of  fast  color  cotton  yarn 
to  stand  bleaching  like  the  large  num- 
ber   or'    men  s    sairtiiigs    produced. 

Some  time  ago  there  were  certain 
weavers  who  believed  that  no  leno 
similar  to  a  Russian  cord  could  be 
produced  by  the  use  of  top  doups. 
They  thought  that  before  a  crossing 
could  be  satisfactorily  made  witli  a 
top  doup  one  pick  would  have  to  in- 
tervene. For  this  reason,  many  of 
these  fabrics  are  woven  on  bottom 
doups.  As  is  well  known,  top  doups 
are  more  satisfactory  if  they  can  be 
run,  and  it  is  brought  to  tlie  atten  • 
tion  of  those  who  still  use  bottom 
doups  that  many  manufacturers  are 
to-day  using  top  doups  for  cloths  of 
this  character.  We  have  given 
THE  CHAIN  AND  DRAFT 
for  the  use  of  bottom  doups,  for  it  is 
prooable  that  the  majority  still  use 
them,  and  it  makes  Ihings  somewhat 
clearer  by  this  method.  The  combina- 
tion as  produced  is  very  pleasing,  and 
it  is  such  ideas  as  these  which  some- 
times bring  large  profits  to  the  origi 
nators.  There  are  few  new  ideas  in 
ground   cloth   construction,   but   there 


are  unlimited  possibilities  In  combi- 
nations, for  new  ideas  in  designs  and 
dyeing  and  finishing  admit  of  new 
results.  This  is  illustrated  clearly  by 
the  large  use  made  of  ideas  when 
cloth  began  to  be  mercerized  in  the 
piece,  also  when  yarns  began  to  be 
dyed  colors  which  would  stand  the 
bleaching  process.  It  is  not  believed 
that  either  of  these  ideas  have  yet 
been  developed  as  fully  as  possible. 
The  use  of  fast  colors  on  silk  yarn 
has  hardly  been  brought  before  the 
public,  so  there  may  be  pos- 
sibilities in  this  direction.  The  mak- 
ing of  cotton  suede  opens  a  field  which 
has  been  tested  but  little  in  cloth 
making.  Because  of  the  low  number 
of  picks  in  a  voile  cloth,  the  Russian 
cord  effect  is  not  as  good  as  on  many 
shirting  fabrics  which  have  a  higher 
count   in   the   filling,  but 

THE  RESULT 
is  good  enough  to  be  noted  in  this  con- 
nection. 

Good  yarn  for  the  doups  is  of  hard- 
twist  worsted,  and  it  may  be  well 
to  bring  out  the  fact  that  care  in 
weaving  such  fabrics  will  save  quite  a 


PATTERN. 


120/2  Sea  Island  combed,  hard  twist. 
60/2    Am.    combed 


60/2    Spun    silk. 


40 

26 

5 

1 

4 
1 

17 

8 

40 

i 
1 

1,636  ground 
180  cord 

144  leno. 


36  X 


=   1,960  total    ends. 


120/2  Sea  Island  combed,  hard  twist  filling.     58  picks. 
58   reed,    28%"    width   in   reed,    27"   grey    width,    26%"    finished   width,    72    X     58   grey   count 
over  all,   74    X    56   finished  count  over  all,    63    X    56   finished  count   ground  cloth. 

YARNS. 

Cotton. 
120/2  Sea  Island  hard  twist;  1%"  sta. ;  24  hank  dou.  rov.,      30c. 

60/2   Am.   combed;   1%"  sta.;   12  hank  dou.    rov.,  24c. 

60/2  Spun  silk;   50.400  yds.   per  lb.     Ready  for  loom 
120/2  Sea  Island  hard  twist  filling.     Same  as   warp 

COST. 

1.636  ends,  120/2   Sea  Island   hard   twist +      8%   take-up   =   .0353    @    $1.06 

180  ends,    60/2    Am.    combed +      2%   take-up   =   .0073    @        .44% 

144  ends,   60/2  spun  silk +    70%   take-up   =   .0097    @      3.50 

B8  picks,   120/2  Sea  Island  hard  twist =   .0331    ©      1.06 

Weaving    

Expenses     


liabor, 

waste, 

etc. 

58c. 
I6MiC. 


Twist- 
ing. 
18c. 
4c. 


$1.06 
.44>^ 
3.50 
1.06 


Selling 


Grey    cost 
Finishing,    etc. 


$  .0374 
.0033 
.0339 
.0351 
.0109 
.0143 


_  Finished   cost 

Yards  per  lb.,  11.71. 

Retail  prlcft,   46c.  per  yard. 


t  .1626 


262 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


little  in  the  cost  of  production.  Unless 
there  are  a  large  number  of  leno  ends 
a  weaver  can  operate  nearly  the  same 
number  of  looms  as  on  ordinary  work. 
The  loom  speed  will  be  somewhat 
slower,  due  to  the  fact  that  the  doup 
yarn  takes  some  time  to  straighten 
out.  Through  wrong  designing  or 
planning  we  have  seen  patterns  which 
might  have  been  profit  producers  be- 
come bad  running  jobs  and  continual 
trouble  makers.  It  is  necessary  to 
bind  the  leno  on  the  correct  picks  in 
making  fabrics  of  this  nature.  We 
have  seen  cloths  woven  in  large  quan- 
tities which  when  finished  showed  but 
a  straight  line  and  no  crossing  end. 
It  is  needless  to  say  that  such  a  weave 
should  never  be  used,  as  it  will  re-, 
suit  in  cancellation  of  orders   and 

LOSS    OF   PROFITS. 

Some  manufacturers  make  their 
voile  yarns  to  size  a  specified  amount 
while  others  use  certain  size  single 
yarns,  and  let  the  two-ply  result  be 
what  it  may.  Because  of  the  hard 
twisting  used  the  yarn  will  in  most 
cases  be  heavier  than  the  sample  yarn 
would  indicate,  that  is,  50s-2  will  ac- 
tually size  about  48s-2.  The  take  up 
on  the  leno  or  crossing  end  is  about 
70  per  cent  on  the  cloth  in  question, 
that  is,  3  1-3  inches  will  weave  1  inch 
of  cloth. 

The  weights  and  yards  per  pound 
are  obtained  as  follows: 


1,636   ends    h-    (120/2    X    840)    =    .0325,    warp 
weight    without    take-up    in    weaving. 

.0325   -i-  .92  =  .0353,  warp  weight  with  take- 
up. 

180    ends    -f-    (60/2     X     840)     =    .0071.    warp 
weight  witliout   take-up   in  weaving. 

.0071     -H     .98     =     .0073,     warp     weight     with 
take-up. 

144    ends    -^     (50,400    =    60/2    spun    silk)     = 
.0029    silk    weight    without    take-up. 

.0029    H-    .3    =   .0097,    total   silk  weight. 

58  picks  X  28%"  X  36" 

=     1,667.5    yards    of 

36" 
filling   per  yard  of  cloth. 

1,667.5    -i-    (120/2    X    840)    =  .0331,   weight  of 
filling   yarn. 

.0353     -I-     .0073     -f-    .0097     +     .0331     =     .0854, 
total    weight    per   yard. 

1.0000    -;-   .0854    =    11.71   yards  per  lb. 


SILK  MIXTURE  EPONGE 

The  cloth  considered  here  is  inter- 
esting in  that  it  is  a  development  of 
eponge,   which    many  have   purchased 


and  of  which  many  qualities  have 
been  produced  at  as  many  different 
prices.  Possibly,  eponge  cloth  for  a 
novelty  fabric  has  allowed  of  more 
and  greater  variations  than  any  other 
recently  produced.  It  is  made  in  nov- 
elty yarn  warp  and  filling,  in  novelty 
warp  and  plain  filling,  in  plain  warp 
and  novelty  filling,  in  silk  and  cotton 
mixtures  similar  to  the  sample 
we  are  now  considering,  in  dyed 
yarn  fabrics,  mercerized  yarn  fabrics 
and  various  combinations  of  colors  in 
various  kinds  of  yarns.  Possibly, 
mills  have  had  about  all  the  orders 
they  will  have  for  the  present  on 
these  cloths,  but  retailers  are  becom- 
ing interested,  and  a  lair  distribution 
is  likely  for  such  a  high-class  novelty. 
It  is  true  that  of  late  the  interest  is 
being  largely  seen  on  similar  ideas  of 
this  nature  worked  up  into  trim- 
mings and  the  like,  and  the  demand 
should  be  extensive  in  this  direction, 
for  these  effects  are  more  desirable 
for  trimmings  than  they  are  for  whole 
dresses.  Many  of  the  cloths  are  stil) 
imported,   although   cloths   of 

AMERICAN  PRODUCT 

have  largely  replaced  them,  at  least 
in   the   cheaper   grades. 

Misstatements  by  men  supposed  to 
be  familiar  with  cloth  making  have 
been  made  about  these  fabrics,  possi- 
bly to  a  larger  extent  than  on  many 
novelty  cloths.  Because  they  never 
have  had  any  experience  in  making 
novelty  yarns,  they  consider  that  they 
are  impossible  to  produce.  For  this 
reason,  it  is  likely  that  more  people 
have  paid  high  prices  for  these  cloths 
than  for  the  majority  of  fancy  fabrics. 
One  thing  is  very  evident,  and  this  is 
that  no  cloth  of  a  radical  nature  can 
be  sold  in  comparatively  large 
amounts  until  consumers  are  interest- 
ed in  the  idea,  or  a  fashion  is  worked 
up  for  the  cloth.  Contrary  to  the  gen- 
eral opinion,  any  large  sale  of  a  dif- 
ferent cloth  is  a  growth  and  should 
be  treated  as  such  by  buyers. 

NOT  A  NEW  IDEA. 

The  idea  used  in  these  cloths  Is  not 
new.  for  it  has  been  used  at  various 
times,  but  no  demand  was  created 
and  therefore  no  sale  made.    We  have 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


263 


seen  good  and  practical  ideas  thrown 
aside  by  buyers  simply  because  tliey 
did  not  care  to  attempt  to  develop 
their  use.  The  yarns  used  in  these 
cloths  are  called,  in  mill  language, 
under  the  general  heading  of  cork- 
screw yarns.  To  produce  the  effects, 
two  twisting  operations  are  neces- 
sary, one  in  the  opposite  direction  to 
the  other.  In  the  yarn  in  this  cloth, 
instead  of  all  single  yarns  being  used, 
we  have  two  sizes  of  two-ply.  This 
makes  a  better  effect,  although  it  in- 
creases the  cost  of  the  yarn  some- 
what. If  the  yarn  be  made  on  the 
twister,  it  is  necessary  to  have  two 
sets  of  rolls,  for  the  yarns  are  not 
delivered  at  the  same  rate  of  speed, 
as  can  be  seen  from  the  yarn  analy- 
sis.    If 

NOVELTY   TWISTERS 

are  not  available,  it  is  possible  to 
make  the  sane  effects  on  an  ordinary 
spinning  frame,  using  two  sets  of 
rolls  and  a  wire  across  the  front  of 
the  frame  to  hold  up  tiie  ends  off 
the  other  rolls  and  guide  them  into 
the  pig-tails  on  the  Irame.  This 
policy  is  sometimes  advantageous,  for 
yarn  in  the  last  twisting  process  can 
be  wound  directly  onto  quills,  there- 
by saving  some  operations  which  are 
necessary  when  yarn  is  twisted  on  a 
regular  twister.  Yarns  of  this  charac- 
ter usually  are  coarse  in  size  when 
completed,  possibly  few  being  over 
lyz  and  many  less  than  5,  although  at 
various  times  samples  have  been  seen 
with  yarn  which  sized  when  finished 
as  fine  as  20.  Because  of  the  coarse 
size  of  the  yarn,  the  cloth  count  is 
necessarily  low  in  the  direction  which 
the  novelty  yarn  was  used. 

To  find  the  resulting  yarn  size  when 
completed,  it  is  only  necessary  to  pull 
threads  from  the  cloth  and  size  in 
the  ordinary  manner,  this  process 
giving  5.4.5  as  the  yarn  size;  but  to 
obtain  the  various  yarns  which  enter 
the  construction  is  another  thing. 
The  first  step  is  to  unravel  some  of 
the  ends  composing  the  novelty,  be- 
ing careful  to  measure  their  lengths. 
In  this  manner  it  will  be  found  that 
the  40s-l  yarn  takes  up  9%  per  cent, 
while  the  30s-2  takes  up  30  per  cent. 
When   the  yarns  are  unraveled,   it  is 


an  easy  matter  to  obtain  the  various 
sizes.  Care  should  also  be  observed 
in  the  amount  of  twist  per  inch  in 
each  operation  of  twisting,  for  this 
has  much  to  do  with  the  final  effect. 
When  the  above  has  been  completed, 
the  size  which  the  yarn  should  be  is 
obtained. 


60/2  1  end  = 
40/1  2  ends  = 
30/2  1  end  = 
30/1  -=-  30/1  = 
30/1  -4-  18.1/1  = 
30/1  -^  10.5/1  = 


30/1  =  30/1 

20/1   9^%   shrink.  =  18.1/1 

15/1      30%   shrink.  =  10.5/1 

1.00 

1.65 

2.85 


5.50 

30/1    -^   5.50   =   5.45  figured  size. 

PRICES  DO  NOT  CORRESPOND. 

To  show  that  prices  on  various 
quantities  of  fabiics  do  not  corre- 
spond when  retailed,  we  can  state  that 
an  all-cotton  fabric  was  being  re- 
tailed at  a  higher  price  than  the  silk 
one  analyzed  in  the  same  store. 
Some  may  think  that  the  construction 
warranted  the  difference,  but  we  can 
state  that  there  was  practically  the 
same  number  of  picks  of  novelty 
yarn  of  the  same  size  as  filling  in 
each  cloth,  so  little  difference  could 
be  found  here.  The  warps  bear  no 
comparison,  for  the  cotton  warp  was 
plain  yarn  of  a  count  of  about  29 
threads  per  inch  of  30s-l  yarn,  while 
the  silk  warp  counts  over  all  nearly 
150  per  inch.  An  absolute  difference 
in  cost  of  warp  material  of  over  10 
cents  per  yard  is  noted,  making  the 
cost  of  the  grey  cotton  cloth  less  than 
12  cents  per  yard.  Another  item  ol 
expense  which  the  white  cotton  cloth 
did  not  bear  was  the  extra  cost  of 
dyeing  and  finishing  a  novelty  silk 
and  cotton  fabric.  Altogether,  the  net 
cost  finished  of  the  silk  and  cotton 
fabric  was  nearly,  if  not  quite,  twice 
the  cost  of  the  all-cotton  one,  and  the 
retail  price  of  the  all-cotton  fabric 
is  higher  than  the  mixture  cloth.  This 
shows  how  the  retailer,  many  times, 
purchases  fabrics  which  show  no 
relation  of  manufacturing  costs  to 
selling  prices. 

There  is  as  much  demand  for  one 
of  these  fabrics  as  there  is  for  the 
other,  and  no  excuse  can  be  offered 
that  one  is  sold  at  a  lower  price  be- 
cause of  small  demand.  If  the  novelty 
mixture   sells  for  96   cents  per  yard. 


264 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


the  all-cotton  fabric  should  not  bring  times  it  would  be  possible  for  a 
over  50  cents  per  yard.  These  cloths  weaver  to  operate  more  looms,  there- 
were  purchased  through  the  same  by  reducing  the  producing  costs,  ex- 
channels,  and  it  is  very  evident  that  cepting  for  the  fact  that  the  filling 
some  one  made  runs  out  very  fast.  If  more  than 
EXCESSIVE  PROFITS  "^^^  loom  was  operated,  it  is  likely 
^,  ,,  ^^  ,  ^1-  Tx  •  i.  ^1.  ^  that  the  percentage  of  production 
on  the  all  cotton  cloth.  It  is  true  that  ^^^j^  ^^  j^^  ^^^  ^^^  ultimate  result 
cloths  of  all  cotton  and  very  similar  ^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^  if  but  one  loom  per 
to  the  one  referred  to,  have  been  sold  ^^^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^ 
for  less  than  13    cents    per   yard,  and  j        ^^.        ^^^    ^j^j^     -j^ 

Z7e  letups  'Sr  'the''mnrm!Sng  ^  -^"  "--">^  ^'''  "««  '^^  ^""^  ^^'^"^ 

\lil     Th  ™  is   due  to   tSe   faS   tha't  ^'^^^  ^^^  ^^^^  '-'^'^  ^°  t^^i''  '^'^'  °^ 

a  loom   will   produce   a  large   number  METHOD    OF    WEAVING, 

of   yards    per   day,    due    to    the   small  Italian  silk  is  probably  used  in  large 

number  of  picks.     Because  of  the  fact  quantities,  and  the  sizes  are  almost  al- 

that  the  filling  is  so  heavy,  a  weaver  ways  heavier  than  20s-22,  so  as  to  ob- 

can    operate   but   one    loom   in    many  tain   a  sufficient  amount  of   strength, 

cases.    As  a  large  part  of  the  weaver's  We   have    used    190,000   yards   as   the 

work   is   the   changing   of   filling,   the  size  of  the  yarn,  although  this  is  not 

cloth   is   called   a   filling  job.       Many  the    theoretical    yardage.    A     certain 

PATTERN. 
4  4 

22/24    Italian    silk    warp     —       4,892       —     =      5,084   total    ends. 

24  24 

6.45   cotton    novelty    filling,    20    picks. 

65    reed,    38"    width    in    reed,    36"    grey    width,    35"    finished    width,    141     X     20    grey    count: 
145    X    20  finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Labor,       Twist- 
■'"Uon.  waste,  etc.       ing. 

40/1  Am.  combed,  IVs"  sta. ;     8  hank  dou.  rov.,  17V4c.  10c.  =   $  .27% 

30/2  Am.  combed,   1%"  sta.;     6  hank  dou.  rov.,  17%c.  8%c.  2c.  =       .28 

60/2  Am.  combed,   l%"sta.;   12  hank  dou.  rov.,  24c.  16Vic.  4c.  =       .44% 

22/24  Italian  silk,   190,000  yards  per  lb.      On  beams,  =     4.45 

NOVELTY  YARN. 

40/1    2   ends   ground    9%%   take-up  in  finished  yarn  J    .    ^  t„,i<!tlne  rcrulRr 
30/2   1  end  30%   take-up  in  finished  yarn  5  ^^'  twisting  regular. 

v^'^3„^f^^t   i„»    „,,o^on„„l    2nd  twisting  reverse. 
Yarn   from   1st   operation  J 

Note. — 60/2  In  2nd  operation   is  the  yarn  on  which  all  the  weaving  strain  comes.     The  first 
twisted  yarn   is  really  retwisted  around  the   60/2. 

NOVELTY  YARN   COST. 

40/1   2   ends   @    27%c.        =        8.28c for  part  to  make  1  lb.   of  novelty. 

30/2   1   end      ®    2Sc.  =      14.53c for  part  to  make  1  lb.   of  novelty. 

60/2  1  end     @   44  %c.       =       8.52c for  part  to  make  1  lb.  of  novelty. 

31.33c.  yarn  cost. 
3.00c.   1st  twisting  operation. 
2.00c.    2nd  twisting  operation. 

36.33c.   novelty   yarn   cost   at   loom. 

CLOTH  COST. 

6,084  ends  22/24  Italian  silk   +    8%    take-up    =   .0291    @    $4.45         =  $  .1295 

20   picks   5.45   noveltv   cotton =   .1660    @    36.33c.      =  .0603 

W^eavlng    .0242 

Expenses    .0053 

)  .2193 
Selling     .0044 

Grey   cost    J  .2237 

Dyeing,    finishing,    etc .0300 

Finished   cost    $  .2537 

Yards  per  pound,   5.02   (grey). 

Plain  weave. 

Retail  price,  96c.  per  yard. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


266 


amount  of  leeway  is  usually  allowed 
by  cotton  mills  using  silk  for  any 
variation  which  may  be  noted  in  the 
actual  size.  Naturally  the  n^aker  errs 
on  his  own  side  and  possibly  it  should 
be  considered  j  'stifiable.  inas"*  nch  as 
silk  sizes  purchased  from  different 
sellers  vary  widely. 

Regarding  the  use  of  silk  in  cotton 
mills,  it  can  be  said  that  it  has 
largely  increased  in  the  past  few 
years.  Possibly  the  use  may  be  ap- 
plied to  new  cloths  as  they  are  de- 
manded by  fashion,  but  there  is  no 
question  but  that  its  use  has  come 
to  stay  In  this  direction.  A  fancy 
goods  mill  which  has  not  or  cannot 
use  it  Is  rather  badly  handicapped 
in  the  production  of  high-class  novel- 
ties. It  is  true  that  many  times  the 
addition  of  a  comparatively  small 
amount  of  silk  will  add  very  much 
more  to  the  value  of  the  cloth  than 
the  extra  charge  w-ould  indicate.  In 
other  cases,  a  cloth  is  changed  from 
a  rather  ordinary  fabric  to  a  beauti- 
ful production.  Numerous  examples 
might  be  cited  where  the  use  of  silk 
was  a  distinct  advance  in  the  making 
of  cloths,  and  not  only  this,  but  many 
times  it  has  added  to  the  profits  of 
all  concerned  in  the  selling,  from  the 
manufacturer  to  the  retailer.  When 
the  actual  size  of  the  filling  is  ob- 
tained, the 

YARDS  PER  POUND 
are  figured  as  follows.  It  must  not 
be  assumed  that  the  weight  of  the 
cloth  is  the  same  when  finished  as 
when  delivered  by  the  mill,  for  silk 
will  lose  much  weight  when  bleached 
and  boiled  out.  and  cotton  is  also 
lighter,  due  to  processing. 

5,084   ends  silk  -+-   190.000  yards  =  .0267.   sUk 

weight   per  yard   without   take-up. 
8%    take-up    In    weaving. 

.0267  -+■  .92  «=  .0291.  silk  weight  per  yard. 
38"  width  In  reed  X  20  pks.  per  In.  X  36' 

36" 

760  yards  fllUn^  per  yard  of  cloth. 
760   ■+■    (5.45    X    840)    =    .1660,    filling  weight 

per    yard. 
.0291   4-  .1660  =  .1951.  total  weight  per  yard. 
1.0000   ■*-  .1951   =   5.02  yards  per  pound. 

The  finished  yards  per  pound 
would  be,  probably,  about  5.35  to  5.40, 
although  this  would  depend  much  on 
the  amount  the  cloth  was  boiled  out 
In  the  finishing  process. 


SILK  MIXTURE  FAST  COLOR 
SHIRTING 

The  fabric  analyzed  is  one  of  the 
newer  productions  in  shirting  mate- 
rials. As  is  well  known,  there  is  a 
wide  distribution  for  various  fabrics 
in  these  lines,  and  many  and  varied 
constructions  are  made  and  sold. 
While  it  has  been  noted  but  little,  it 
is  a  fact  that  the  materials  used  have 
been  getting  finer  and  finer,  and  much 
more  silk  is  being  used  than  ever  be- 
fore. Of  course,  the  price  of  shirts 
has  advanced,  but  this  does  not  of 
necessity  mean  that  the  price  of  ma- 
terial has  gone  up  in  proportion.  In 
many  cases,  it  is  known  for  a  fact  that 
cloth  in  some  of  the  high-priced  shirts 
has  been  bought  at  a  lower  price  than 
cloth  which  has  been  used  in  some  of 
the  lower-priced  articles. 

This  shows  that  some  of  the  shirt 
makers,  because  of  their  progressive- 
ness,  have  looked  after  their  own  con- 
verting on  these  cloths  and  have  sav- 
ed the  large  profits  which  may  be 
made  in  this  manner.  Few  of  the  old- 
style  madras  shirts  had  material 
which  cost  less  than  15  cents  per  yard 
in  their  construction,  and  many  had 
material  which  cost  more  than  the 
above.  It  is  known  that  much  of  the 
material  which  shirt  makers  have  con- 
verted has  been  bought  at  10  cents 
per  yard  or  less.  Much  of  the  mate- 
rial which  is  used  in  $3.50  to  $5  shirts 
costs  less  than  25  cents  per  yard. 
This  is  for 

A  NOVELTY  CONSTRUCTION 
containing  spun  silk  filling  and  with 
enough  picks  per  inch  to  produce  a 
firm  and  satisfactory  cloth,  with  silk 
warp  stripes  and  figured  patterns. 
Very  few  cloths  ever  used  cost  a 
maker  over  75  cents  per  shirt,  and 
the  large  majority  of  fabrics  cost  less 
than  50  cents  per  shirt. 

One  other  advantage  which  is  not- 
ed in  many  of  the  newer  materials  is 
that  the  cloths  are  made  of  all  combed 
yarns.  This  should  produce  a  more 
even  and  better  looking  cloth,  and  it 
usually  does.  Few  of  the  old-style 
shirtings   were  or   are   made   of   any- 


tee 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


thing  but  carded  yarns.  Another  thing 
which  is  noted  is  that  the  whites  are 
not  so  clean  in  the  older  shirtings. 
This  results  from  the  fact  that  the 
yarns  used  in  their  construction  are 
handled  much  after  bleaching.  Of 
course,  the  cloth  woven  is  washed  be- 
fore shipping  out,  but  this  process 
many  times  cannot  eradicate  the  shade 
obtained  when  processing.  The  above 
is  shown  very  clearly  by  comparing 
the  whites  in  many  lines  of  the  best 
ginghams  with  the  whites  in  some  of 
the  checked  patterns  produced  with 
yarn  to  stand  bleaching,  and  which 
are  bleached  when  the  doth  is  woven. 


and  combed  yarns  and  also  to 
many  novelty  fabrics  composed  of 
silk  and  cotton,  both  for  ladies'  and 
men's  wear.  The  sample  considered 
is  one  of  these  novelty  cloths.  It  has 
40s-l  yarn  for  warp  in  both  the  white 
and  color.  Probably,  these  were  run 
in  the  weave  room  on  separate  beams, 
although  they  could  just  as  well  have 
been  placed  on  a  single  beam  if  fa- 
cilities for  doing  this  were  obtainable. 
The  fulling  is  of  Tussah  silk.  Tne 
yards  per  pound  are  assumed  at  55,000, 
yet  this  is  not  the  theoretical  yard- 
age, but  is  one  which  protects  the 
manufacturer   from   variations   in   the 


Silk   Mixture   Fast  Color  Shirting. 


Many  of  the  older  shirting  mills  use 
colors  which  are  fast  to  light  and 
washing,  although  there  are  still  many 
of  these  fabrics  which  do  not  have 
satisfactory  colors,  but  it  is  manifest 
that  a  color  which  has  been  through  a 
bleaching  process  is  better  than  one 
which  can  stand  only  light  and  wash 
ing. 

Possibly,  one  of  the  first  and  largest 
uses  made  of  these  colors  has  been  in 
mills  which  do  not  dye  their  own  yarn, 
and  which  are  usually  known  as  grey 
cloth  mills.  They  have  been  applied 
to    shirting   fabrics,    in     both     carded 


silk  size.  The  cloth  construction  is 
not  an  especially  good  one,  as  it  counts 
but  74  by  64,  and  would  not  make  a 
highly  serviceable  shirting  for  men. 
What  the  difference  is  between  the 
cost  and  retail  price  is  easily  seen. 
These  cloths  sold  last  year  in  quite 
large  quantities  for  about  14  cents 
per  yard,  and  it  is  very  evident  that 
a  large  percentage  has  been  taken  in 
the  distribution.  Of  course,  the  price 
of  the  silk,  which  constitutes  the  larg- 
est single  item  in  the  cloth  cost,  is 
now  lower  than  last  year,  but  the 
difference  in  price  accounts  for  a  very 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


117 


small  portion  of  the  extra  cost.  The 
retail  price  is  48  cents  per  yard,  and 
probably  was  purchased  by  the  retail- 
er for  321^  cents  per  yard.  The  differ- 
ence between  14  cents,  the  purchase 
price,  and  321^  cents,  the  selling  price, 
represents 

THE  GROSS  PROFIT 
to  the  converter  after  the  finishing 
charges  are  deducted,  and  these 
should  not  be  large,  for  the  cloth  has 
only  to  be  bleached  and  finished.  The 
fabric  was  probably  sold  by  a  con- 
verting jobber,  for  they  handle  these 
lines  in  large  amounts. 

The  figure  on  the  cloth  is  made  ou 
an  ordinary  dobby  loom,  and  it  takes 
15  harnesses  to  produce  it  satisfac- 
torily. In  our  drawing-in  draft  the 
numbers  at  the  bottom  represent  the 
number  of  ends  placed  in  each  dent 
of  the  reed.  The  numbers  in  the 
draft  represent  the  harnesses  upon 
which  draft  is  drawn,  while  the  num- 
bers to  the  right  are  the  heddles  re- 
quired on  each  harness.  These  are 
for  the  harness  builder,  so  that  satis- 
factory harnesses  with  the  correct 
number  of  heddles  are  available  for 
the  drawing-in  operation.  The  head 
chain  represents  the  operation  of  the 
various  harnesses  to  produce  the  pat- 


tern. A  somewhat  more  even  repeat 
might  have  been  produced  if  two  plain 
picks  were  inserted  in  the  chain,  or 
if  two  were  taken  out.  This 
would  have  obviated  one  defect  in  the 
pattern.  It  will  be  noted  that  in  the 
pattern  as  woven  there  is  a  harness 
skip  over  the  large  spot. 

Care  should  be  taken  by  the  loom- 
fixer  to  see  that  such  occurrences  are 
rare,  although  it  is  hard  to  see  them 
in  grey  cloth.  This  defect  can  be  de- 
tected much  easier,  however,  with 
Tussah,  which  is  yellow,  than  with 
many  other  silks,  such  as  14-16  two- 
thread  Canton  which  is  used  largely 
in  these  varieties  of  fabrics. 

In  laying  out 

THE  PATTERN 
another  criticism  might  be  made,  and 
that  is  that  the  pattern  would  have 
looked  better  if  it  had  been  balanced. 
It  is  noted  that  the  cloth  has  a  heavy 
colored  stripe  on  one  edge,  while  the 
light  stripe  is  on  the  other  edge.  We 
have  laid  out  the  cloth  as  it  is  woven, 
although  in  the  large  majority  of 
cases,  it  is  better  to  exactly  balance 
the  repeats  next  to  each  selvage.  Of 
course,  this  is  sometimes  impossible 
when  making  a  number  of  different 
patterns  with  the  same  number  of  col- 


PATTERN. 


40/1    Am.    combed,    white.. 
40/1  Am.  combed,  colored. 


2 
12 

38 

14 

48 

2 

2 

2 

10  34 

1 

2 
12 

4  X 


18  X 
3J/38   2  end   tussah  filling.      64   picks. 

.■?4    reed.    34%"    width    in   reed,    32"    grey    width,    32"    finished    width. 
74    X    63  finished  count. 

TARNS. 


1,954 
432 
2.386   total   ends. 


74     X    64    grey    count. 


Labor  & 
waste.      Dyeing. 
10c. 
10c.  16c. 


Cotton. 
40/1  Am.   combed,   grey,        1%"   sta.;    8  hank  dou.  rov..      17V4c. 
40/1  Am.  combed,   colored,   l^i"  sta.;   8  hank  dou.  rov.,      17  %c. 
32/38   2  end  tussah  tram,   55,000  yds.  per  lb.,  on  quills. 

COST. 

1.954   ends   40/1    Am.    combed,   grey -1-    5%   take-up   —   .0612    ®    27V4c. 

432  ends  40/1  Am.   combed,   colored +    5%   take-up   =     0136    ®    43%c. 

64   picks   32/38   2  end   tussah   tram =   .0404    @      $1.80 

Weaving    

Expenses     


=  27%c. 
=  43%c. 
=      $1.80 


Selling 


Mill    cost 
Finishing    .  .  . 


Finished  cost 
Yards  per  pound,   8.68. 
Retail   price,   48e. 


=   $  .0168 

=        .0059 

=        .0727 

.0110 

.0142 

$  .1206 
.0024 

$  .1230 
.0150 

$  .1880 


258 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARV 


ored  ends,  although  this  situation 
hardly  ever  comes  up.  Many  mills 
have  been  afraid  of  handling  silk  and 
cotton  mixtures,  although  this  condi- 
tion should  have  been  eliminated  long 
ago. 

The  production  is  as  high,  if  not 
higher,  than  with  the  same  class  of 
cotton  fabric,  and  when  workers  be- 
come used  to  handling  the  material 
little  trouble    is   experienced.      Profits 


xWxIN 


■  ■■■ 

!■!■!■!> 


■  ■■■'■'  "fi" 


BBBBSO 


Harness  Chain. 

have  been  large  m  maKiug  mese 
cloths,  but  competition  and  the  ex- 
cessive prices  charged  by  converting 
jobbers  have  stifled  the  demand  some- 
what. There  is  no  reason  why  the 
cloth  analyzed  should  not  sell  for  less 
than  35  cents  per  yard  and  still  allow 
all  sellers  a  large  and  satisfactory 
profit.     The  silk  used  in  these  fabrics 


liitt 


-Ht- 


m-i 


itr 


M 


■^ 


¥= 


■^^= 


tu 


''J^ 


^ipitrii- 


tfe 


m 


\nn. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


269 


is  rather  uneven  in  size,  but  answers 
tlie  purpose  for  wliicli  it  was  used  sat 
isfactorily.  Large  advances  tiave  been 
made  in  tlie  finishing  of  these  cloths, 
and  to-day  the  finish  is  admitted  to  be 
as  good  if  not  much  better  than  can 
be  obtained  from  any  of  the  foreign 
plants.  In  the  finishing  it  is  custo- 
mary to  bring  the  cloth  out  to  its 
grey  width,  as  the  silk  will  admit  of 
much  greater  stretching  than  the  cot- 
ton filling.  As  yet  no  large  number 
of  patterns  have  been  produced  on 
jacquard  looms,  but  without  doubt,  a 
large  increase  in  various  colors  and 
combinations  of  material  will  be  seen, 
while  competition  and  a  larger  pro- 
duction will  give  more  re-tsonable 
prices  to  consumers.  To  find  the 
yards  per  pound  the  process  is  as 
follows: 

1,954    ends    -4-    (40/1    X    S40j    =    .05S2,   weight 

o£  grey  yarn   without  take-up. 
5%    take-up   on   all    40/1. 
.0582    H-    .95    =    .0612,    weight   of    grey    warp 

in    1    yard    of   cloth. 
432    ends    -;-    (40/1     X    840)    =    .0129,    weight 

of    colored    yarn    without    take-up. 
.0129    -H   .95   =   .0136,   weight  of  colored  yarn 

in    1    yard    of   cloth. 
64  pks.    X    34%"  reed  width    X    36" 

=     2.224 

36" 

yards  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
2,224     -h      (55,000     silk     yardage)      =     .0404. 

weight   ot  silk  per  yard   of  cloth. 
.0612    +    .0136    +    .0404    =   .1152,   total    weight 

per    yard. 
1.0000    -;-   .1152    =    8.68   yards  per   pound. 


^  »  » 

MERCERIZED  RUSSIAN  CORD 
SHIRTING 

At  various  times  we  have  mentioned 
the  fact  that  the  process  of  merceriza- 
tion  and  the  use  of  fast  colors  Lad 
developed  many  new  lines  of  shirtings 
and  similar  fabrics  which  fill  a  variety 
of  uses.  Not  only  have  these  proc- 
esses made  it  possible  to  produce  fine 
fabrics  of  combed  yarn  and  with 
beautiful  effects  which  could  not  be 
produced  at  any  price  until  compara- 
tively recently,  but  it  has  also  made 
it  possible  to  produce  such  cloths  at 
low  prices.  That  this  has  been  of  ben- 
efit to  consumers  thus  early  is  easily 
proven  by  the  cloth  now  under  consid- 
eration. The  price  at  retail  is  35  cents 
per  yard,  and    it   is  not  too  much   to 


state  that  five  years  ago  such  a  fabric 
could  not  have  been  purchased  at  any 
price. 

Many  of  the  ordinary  madras  shirt- 
ings bring  45  cents  or  more  at  retail 
to-day,  and  do  not  compare  with  th» 
present  cloth  in  either  quality  or  con- 
struction. The  facts  are  that  many 
people  purchase  this  cloth  with  the 
impression  that  it  has  a  large  amount 
of  silk  in  its  construction,  and  this  idea 
is  certainly  justified  by  the  appearance 
when  sold.  The  gloss  will  not  wash 
out,  and  the  color  will  remain  as 
bright  when  the  cloth  is  completely 
worn  out  as  it  was  when  sold.  Of 
course,  there  is  not  the  wear  to  this 
fabric  which  there  is  in  many  madras 
shirtings,  but  no  one  should  expect 
such  a  condition,  for  the  cloth  is  light- 
er per  yard  and  the  yarns  are  much 
finer  than  most  madras  shirtings,  but 
the  fabric  is  a  beautiful  and  service- 
able one.  To  show  that  the  cloth  is 
comparatively 

REASONABLE  IN  PRICE 

when  so  new  is  shown  by  the  retail 
price  of  35  cents  per  yard,  and  also 
by  the  fact  that  made-up  shirts  have 
been  offered  and  sold  at  retail  in  this 
cloth  and  pattern  at  95  cents  each. 
As  it  takes  somewhat  over  3  yards 
of  cloth  to  produce  a  shirt,  the  dis- 
crepancy between  the  price  of  cloth 
and  shirts  at  retail  is  probably  due 
to  the  fact  that  the  shirt  make  pur- 
chased the  cloth  very  cheaply  and 
from  first  hands,  thereby  saving  quite 
a  little.  Never  in  the  sale  of  such 
articles  has  the  writer  seen  so  much 
value  and  cheapness,  especially  in 
the  cost  of  a  new  idea. 

There  are  a  number  of  interesting 
features  which  can  be  noted  in  the 
construction  of  this  variety  of  fabrics. 
It  has  been  found  from  experience  that 
certain  constructions  are  more  suit- 
able than  others  for  this  style  of 
cloth.  The  warp  is  usually  made  of 
finer  yam  and  with  a  coarser  count 
than  the  filling,  and  for  this  reason, 
the  latter  usually  forms  a  larger  part 
of  the  cloth,  and  the  warp  yarn  is 
more  or  less  covered  up.  One  con- 
struction largely  used  for  ground 
cloth  is  64  by  72.  with  50s-l  warp  and 
30s-l  filling;  another  is  64  to  72  by 
92  to  104,  with    70s-l    or    80s-l  warp 


260 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


and  40S-1  or  45s-l  filling.     Of  course, 
many  constructions  are  used,  but 

THE  GENERAL  IDEA 
given  above  is  nearly  always  present. 
Many  buyers  ask  for  a  soiesette  con- 
struction, while  others  ask  for  a  suit- 
able cloth  for  mercerization,  although 
at  present  the  yams  and  counts  are 
well  enough  known  among  buyers  to 
be  usually  asked  for.  Many  other 
yarns  and  counts  are  used,  and  cloth 
weights  are  heavier,  in  many  in- 
stances, than  on  the  cloth  considered, 
being  many  times  heavier  than  ordi- 
nary  madras   shirtings.     Filling  yarn 


to  the  cloth  but  also  ensures  a  much 
larger  production  when  the  yarn  is 
being  made.    In  many 

MERCERIZED  FABRICS 
various  qualities  of  Egyptian  cotton 
are  sometimes  used,  as  the  results 
when  finished  are  more  satisfactory. 
Possibly,  more  of  the  cotton  imported 
is  used  in  cloths  which  are  mercer- 
ized than  for  any  other  one  product 
excepting  hosiery  and  underwear.  The 
large  reason  why  ordinary  madras 
shirtings  do  not  possess  the  luster  and 
appearance  which  many  of  these  new 
cloths  have  is  because  they  are  not 


I   t 

li 

I  I 


^jF^r^^^T' 


Mercerized  Russian  Cord  Shirting. 


is  almost  always  made  of  combed 
material,  and  because  results  are  bet- 
ter, the  yarn  usually  has  a  compara- 
tively small  amount  of  twist  per  inch. 
The  standard  in  many  yarns  made  on 
ring  frames  possibly  would  be  in  the 
vicinity  of  3.25,  although  standards  of 
as  low  as  2.75  have  been  used  on 
frames.  Sometimes  mule-spun  yarn  is 
used  with  less  twist  than  that  of 
ring  yarn,  but  too  small  an  amount 
makes  a  weak  cloth.  Because  of  the 
small  amount  of  twist  it  is  necessary, 
in  many  cases,  to  use  longer  staple 
cotton  than  on  ordinary  yarn.  This 
method  not  only  gives  more  strength 


mercerized,  and  they  are  not  process- 
ed in  this  manner,  because  the  yarn 
used  is  twisted  so  hard  that  no  sat- 
isfactory results  are  obtained.  A 
comparatively  large  amount  of  twist 
is  necvssary  in  yarns  for  madras 
shirtings,  so  that  the  yarns  can  be 
handled,  bleached  and  dyed  in  a  sat- 
isfactory and  economical  manner. 
Many  processes  are  eliminated  when 
cloth  is  woven  from  grey  yarns  which 
are  necessary  and  expensive  when 
cloth  is  made  from  bleached  and  dyed 
material.  The  cloth  is  mercerized  in 
the  piece,  and  the  filling,  which,  as 
above  noted,  is  soft  twist,  takes  prac- 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


261 


tlcally  all  the  mercerizatlon  noticed. 
This  makes  it  necessary  that  some 
method  be  used  whereby  the  cloth  is 
held  out  iu  the  filling  direction  when 
the  mercerization  is  taking  place,  for 
unless  this  is  done,  no  luster  will  be 
imparted.  This  is  done  in  various 
methods  which  are  of  little  impor- 
tance in  the  discussion  excepting  for 
the  fact  that  this  result  must  be  pro- 
duced by 

HEAVY  TENSION 
on  the  filling  in  the  cloth. 

For  a  number  of  years  grey  cloth 
was  mercerized  in  the  piece,  but,  natu- 
rally, the  resulting  fabric  did  not  com- 
pete with  cloth  in  which  color  was 
used,  excepting  in  an  indirect  man- 
ner, by  eliminating  some  purchases, 
and  rather  new  uses  were  found  for 
the  product.  Then  when  this  field 
was  fairly  well  established,  a  new 
development  ensued  which  as  yet  is 
only  in  its  infancy.  This  is  the  use 
of  fast  colors  which  will  stand  the 
bleaching  process.  As  will  be  read- 
ily seen,  this  process  places  the  grey 
cloth  mills  which  had  previously  pro- 
duced cloths  for  mercerization  in  the 
white  state  into  more  or  less  direct 
competition  with  many  of  the  older 
mills  and  fabrics,  and  without  doubt, 
has  opened  new  fields  which  as  yet 
have  hardly  been  touched.  To  show 
what  this  development  has  meant  it 
can  be  stated  that  southern  mills  are 
to-day  making  colored  lines  in  which 
the  colored  yarn  is  sent  North  to  be 
dyed,  and  then  reshipped  to  the  mill 
to  be  woven  into  cloth  which  is  to- 
day being  sold  at  lower  prices  for  the 
same  construction  than  many  of  the 
older  mills  can  possibly  sell  at.  Few 
of  the  older  mills  could  produce 

FANCY  JACQUARD  PATTERNS 
with  colors  in  their  construction,  but 
now  the  supply  can  be  made  large 
with  any  demand.  Another  thing 
which  will  mean  better  cloth  to  the 
consumer  is  the  fact  that  most  of 
these  newer  fabrics  are  composed  of 
combed  yarns,  and  the  finished  re- 
sults are  much  more  even  than  many 
of  the  older  cloths.  Not  only  do  the 
yarns  make  more  even  cloth  but  the 
finishing  processes  used  on  grey 
cloth  eliminate  to  a  large  extent,  or 
entirely,   the    reed    marks   which    are 


more  or  less  visible  in  cloth  woven 
from  bleached  yarns,  and  which  spoil 
somewhat  the  cloth's  appearance. 
While  the  reduction  in  the  cost  of 
making  is  not  so  great  on  some  fab- 
rics as  it  is  on  others  there  is  no 
doubt  but  that  in  a  general  way  rad- 
ical reductions  are  and  can  be  made. 
Possibly,  one  of  the  large  results 
aside  from  the  costs  is  the  fact  that 
the  making  of  so  many  new  cloths 
with  absolutely  fast  colors  will  force 
buyers  and  makers  into  demanding 
much  better  colors  than  many  have 
been  accustomed  to  use.  This  does 
not  apply  to  some  of  the  mills  which 
make  older  lines,  for  they  have  been 
quick  enough  to  see  the  possibilities 
in  the  use  of  these  colors  and  what  it 
means  to  their  future  business,  but 
there  is  very  large 

CHANCE  FOR  IMPROVEMENT 

in  the  colors  which  some  mills  are 
accustomed  to  produce. 

We  have  not  gone  into  detail  re- 
garding the  individual  cloth  under 
consideration.  It  is  what  is  known 
as  a  Russian  cord,  and  this  portion 
is  composed  of  the  fast-colored  yarn. 
Some  mills  make  these  results  on  an 
ordinary  dobby  loom  with  leno  attach- 
ment find  use  either  top  or  bottom 
doups,  but  possibly  a  large  portion  is 
made  with  a  reed,  which  allows  the 
ground  of  the  cord  to  operate  practi- 
cally not  at  all,  while  it  allows  the 
crossing  end  free  access  to  both  sides 
of  the  ground  yarn.  The  main  fact 
is  that  the  crossing  thread  is  bound 
into  the  cloth  first  on  one  side  of  the 
ground  yarn  and  on  the  next  pick  on 
the  other  side.  This  continual  chang- 
ing entirely  covers  up  the  ground 
threads,  and  because  of  the  large 
number  of  picks  makes  a  very  smooth 
round  cord  which  cannot  be  produced 
in  any  other  way,  for  it  appears  when 
woven  like  a  braid  sewed  onto  the 
cloth.    Due  to 

THE  CROSSING  PROCESS, 

there  is  a  large  take-up  on  this  leno 
or  crossing  yarn,  and  so  great  is  this 
take-up  that  It  requires  almost  six 
inches  of  yarn  to  weave  one  inch  of 
cloth.  Care  must  be  used  when  cloth 
Is  made  of  this  character,  for  any  va- 
riation in  the  tension  will  produce  a 


262 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


different  effect.  This  care  should  also 
be  used  when  plain  stripes  of  color 
are  in  the  pattern,  for  most  always 
the  colored  yarn  is  on  a  separate 
beam,  and  if  the  tension  is  not  right 
a  poorly-woven  result  is  likely.  This 
care  is  not  so  necessary  when  weav- 
ing in  mills  which  use  bleached  yarn, 
for  it  is  customary  to  place  the  dif- 
ferent colors  along  with  the  white 
yarn  on  the  same  beam,  and  of  ne- 
cessity, the  yarn  would  have  the  same 
take-up,  although  care  is  necessary 
when    the    colors    are    placed    on   the 


when  made,  and  the  filling  sized  about 
45s-l  and  was  probably  40s-l.  These 
sizes  can  only  be  assumed,  for  mill 
yarn  sizes  vary  even  when  care  is 
taken,  and  under  the  best  of  operat- 
ing conditions.  The  reason  the  per- 
centage of  loss  was  greater  on  the 
filling  may  be  due  to  the  fact  that  the 
yarn  was  soft  twist  and  to  the  process 
of  finishing.  No  accurate  tests  have 
been  made  regarding  yarn  losses  in 
finishing  grey  cloths,  but  from  7  to  10 
per  cent  would  be  a  fair  average  tak- 
en   from    a   variety    of   fabrics.      The 


70/1    Am.    combed     24         68  6              36130        24       =      2,168 

6  G 

30/1    Am.    combed,    colored —  —                                  =         228 

1  1 

60/2   Am.    combed,    colored 1            |   1                       !      =           38 

19~X  2.434   total. 

40/1    Am.    combed    filling.      100   picks. 
31   reed;   35%"  width  in   reed,   34"   grey  width,   32"   finished  width. 

66    X    100   (grey  count  ground);  76    X    100   (finished  count  over  all). 

YARNS. 

Labor,    Twist-   Dye- 
Cotton,  waste,      ing.  ing. 
70/1    Am.    coiTibed,    grey;        1  %"  .sta. ;  14  hank  dou.  rov.,      24c.  20%c.  =   44V4c. 
30/1   Am.    combed,   colored;    lJ,8"sta.;     6  hank  dou.  rov.,      16c.  Sc.                            16c.    =    40c. 
60/2   Am.   combed,   colored;    1%"  sta. ;  12  hank  dou.  rov.,     24c.  16%c.        4c.          16c.    =   60%c. 
40/1    Am.    combed,    grey;        l%"sta.;     9  hank  dou.  rov..      21c.  lie.  =   32c. 

COST. 

2,168   ends  70/1   Am.   combed -|-      5^r   take-up   =   .0388    ®    44%c.      =    $   .0173 

228   ends   30/1   Am.   combed -f-      2%   take-up   =   .0092    @    40c.  =  .0037 

38   ends  60/2   Am.    combed +    83%   take-up   =    .0088    @    CO%c.      =  .0053 

100  picks   40/1    Am.    combed =   .1064    &    32c.  =  .0341 

Weaving    .0188 

Expenses     .0221 

$  .1013 
Selling    .0020 

Cost    grey     $   .1033 

Bleaching,    mercerizing,    etc .0175 

Cost   finished    $   .1208 

Yards  per  pound,  6.13  grey. 
Retail  price,  35c.  per  yard. 
Retail    purchasing    price,    about    22i,2C.    per    yard. 


beam  in  the  first  place  to  see  that 
none  build  up  more  than  others.  In 
the  large  majority  of  instances  cloths 
such  as  the  one  considered  lose  in 
weight  from 

THE  FINISHING  PROCESSES. 

Of  necessity,  the  yams  are  finer 
than  in  the  grey  cloth  or  when  spun, 
although  this  loss  may  vary  to  a 
large  extent.  In  the  cloth  analyzed 
the  warp  yarn  in  the  ground  cloth 
actually  sized  74V2,  and  was  probably 
70s-l,  or  supposed  to  have  been  70s-l 


twist  in  the  yam,  the  amount  of 
stretch  given  the  cloth,  the  kind  and 
quality  of  cotton  used,  the  process  of 
finishing  and  other  factors  all  affect 
the  result  somewhat.  Possibly,  any 
one  mill  could  tell  within  reasonable 
liTtiits  what  losses  its  own  cloth  would 
have,  but  they  would  apply  only  in  a 
general  way  to  cloths  which  others 
produced  and  which  were  completed 
by  a  different  finishing  works.  Some- 
times cloths  which  are  mercerized  lose 
in  length  and  at  other  times  they  do 
not.       The     cloth     construction     has 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


263 


something  to  do  with  the  results,  hut 
on  most  of  the  grey  goods  which  are 
finished  but  not  mercerized,  there  is 
an  appreciable  stretch  of  greater  o? 
less  degree,  depending  upon  the  cloth 
and  conditions. 

Inasmuch  as  some  x^m  has  a  large 
take-up  in  this  cloth,  it  may  be  well 
to  give  the  method  pursued  in  ob- 
taining the  various  weights  of  yarn: 

2,16S    ends    -r-     (70/1     X     S40)    =    .0369,    warp 

weight    of    70/1    without    weaving    take-up. 
5%    talie-up   in   weaving   on   70/1. 
.0369    -h    .95    =    .03SS,    warp    weight    of    70/1 

(total). 
rl&    ends    -f-    (30/1    X    S40)    ==    .0090,    weight 

of    30/1    colored    without    weaving    ♦ake-up. 
2%    take-up    in    weaving    30/1    colored. 
.0090    -H    .9S    =    .0092,    warp    weight    of    30/1 

colored    (total). 
3S   ends   -^    (GO/2    X    840)    =   .0015,   weight  of 

60/2    colored    without    we<aving    take-up. 
S3',v)    take-up    in    weaving   60/2    colored. 
.0015    H-    .17    =    .OOSS,    warp    weight    of    60/2 

colored    (total). 
100  picks  X  35»4"  width  in  reed  X  36" 

=   3,575 

36" 

yards    of    filling    per   yard   of   cloth. 
3,575    -h     (40/1     X     840)     =    .1064,    weight    of 

liliing    (total). 
.03S,S  -I-   .0092    +   .0088   +   .1064   =   .1632.   total 

weight  per  vard. 
LOOOO     -f-     .1632     =     6.13     yards     per     pound 

(grey). 


MERCERIZED  SEERSUCKER 
STRIPE 

This  cloth  represents  one  of  a  class 
of  fabrics  which  are  having  quite  a 
sale  at  present,  and  one  which  is  like- 
ly to  be  used  extensively  another  sea- 
son, for  converters  are  getting  out  va- 
rious styles  along  these  lines.  In  a 
general  way,  these  seersucker  fabrics 
are  of  two  kinds.  In  the  first,  the 
crinkle  is  woven  in  the  cloth  by  a 
weaving  process,  while  in  the  second, 
the  effect  is  made  by  a  printing  proc- 
ess through  the  application  of  the 
principle  of  mercerization.  Some  time 
ago  we  gave  the  analysis  of  a  woven 
crinkle,  and  the  one  now  considered 
is  of  the  second  or  printed  variety.  Of 
course,  there  are  pressed  fabrics 
which  bear  some  resemblance  to  the 
printed  fabric  now  considered,  but 
they  are  not  so  satisfactory  and  are 


much  less  used,  especially  for  dress 
purposes. 

The  patterns  used  in  the  past  have 
been  more  or  less 

SIMPLE  IN  CHARACTER, 
because  of  the  method  of  producing, 
but  some  deviations  from  the  older  ef 
fects  are  now  being  seen,  and  it  Is 
very  likely  that  a  greater  variety  will 
be  shown,  especially  in  the  offerings 
for  another  season.  Most  of  the  pat- 
terns shown  are  somewhat  similar  to 
the  sample  considered,  having  stripes 
of  various  widths  and  spacing,  and 
with  no  delicate  effects,  which  are 
possible  through  the  weaving  opera- 
tions on  other  lines  of  fancy  cloths. 

The  fabric  considered  shows  one 
method  of  finishing,  which  produces 
a  novelty  effect  from  an  ordinary 
plain  fabric.  Unquestionably,  the 
large  quantity  of  all  kinds  of  cloth 
which  is  used  is  of  the  plain  variety, 
and  many  times  when  finished  shows 
little  resemblance  to  the  original  fab- 
ric. Because  of  the  numerous  inter- 
lacings  in  plain  weave  cloths,  there 
is  usually  much  better  service  noted, 
and  because  of  the  simpleness  of  the 
processes  employed  in  production  the 
cost  of  most  plain  lines  is  low,  and 
the  distribution  is  larger  and  stead- 
ier than  on  other  more  expensive 
fabrics,  which  are  in  good  demand 
when  stylish,  but  which  can  hardly  be 
sold  when  the  season  for  wear  is  past. 

Wide  uses  are  found  for  this  cloth, 
and  from  the  appearances  when  fin- 
ished, few  people  would  imagine  the 
results  to  be  of 

IDENTICAL  CONSTRUCTION 
when  woven.  To  give  the  names 
which  are  ap'^Mei  to  the  various 
lines  and  the  uses  to  which  they  are 
put  would  fill  a  small  volume,  but 
generally,  they  find  a  wide  applica- 
tion, largely  depending  on  their  serv- 
iceability. It  used  to  be  thought  by 
many  mill  men  of  the  older  school 
that  the  looms  which  could  make 
nothing  but  plain  weave  were  unfit 
to  produce  any  novelties  whatever. 
That  this  is  a  mistake  is  clearly  prov- 
en bv  the  results  which  some  mills 
a^-p  obtaining,  for  thev  are  making 
rather  hieh-errade  novelties  for  their 
class  of  goods,  and  are  using  cords  in 
various   patternc,   together  with    fast 


264 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


colors,    producing   goods   on   a   print 

cloth  basis  which  yield  them  a  higher 
profit  than  their  ordinary  work. 

As  yet  the  manufacturing  end  of  the 
business  does  not 

SEE  THE  POSSIBILITIES 
in  the  making  of  various  tabrics  whic  i 
the  finishing  end  has  realized.  It  is 
probably  true  that  many  more  im- 
provements have  been  made  in  the  fin- 
ishing of  cloth  in  the  past  ten  years 
than  there  have  been  in  the  manufac- 
turing. Due  to  the  finishing  processes, 
many  fabrics  could  not  be  recoguizt^a 
by  their  maker,  and  this  applies  to 
plain  and  fancy  cloths  alike.  The 
cloth  in  most  cases  shows  a  largely 
different  appearance,  and,  except  in 
few  instances,  the  results  are  an  im- 
provement, and  are  better  adapted  for 
the  uses  to  which  the  material  is  to 
be  put. 

The  past  year  manufacturers  have 

REALIZED  THE  POSSIBILITY 
of  slight  changes  more  than  ever  be- 
fore, and  it  is  very  likely  that  one  of 
the  large  advantages  from  the  lack 
of  business  will  be  the  teaching  of 
manufacturers  to  adapt  ideas  to  the 
weaving  possibilities.  This  does  not 
mean  that  a  plain  mill  need  be  turned 
into  a  novelty  one,  but  that  througt 
adaptability  increased  profits  can  b( 
made  with  the  machinery  in  use 
This  has  been  one  part  of  the  man 
ufacturing  trade  which  has  been 
largely  overlooked  in  recent  years 
and  one  which  will  be  given  mucL 
more  attention  in  the  future. 

As  this  fabric  shows  such  a  widf 
variation  from  that  noticed  on  the 
same  construction  finished  in  other 
ways,  it  may  be  well  to  state  some- 
thing regarding  the 

PROCESS  OF  MERCERIZATION, 
for  this  is  the  means  whereby  the  re- 
sults are  produced.  It  may  not  be 
generally  known,  but  the  process  of 
mercerization  does  not  always  pro- 
duce the  luster  which  usually  desig- 
nates the  process.  The  change  in  the 
cotton  fibre  when  mercerized  under 
tension  is  to  make  it  more  or  less 
like  a  small  glass  rod,  which  reflects 
light  to  a  greater  or  less  degree,  de- 
pending on  the  twist  in  the  yam  and 
the  method  of  handling.    Cotton  fibre 


in  the  ordinary  cloth  or  in  the  raw 
state  is  a  rather  flat  twisted  tube,  with 
somewhat  corrugated  edges. 

That  there  is  a  widely  different  re- 
sult in  mercerization  when  yarn  or 
cloth  is  under  tension  is  shown  by  the 
fact  that  the  process  was  originally 
used  to  a  great  extent  for  shrinking 
cloth,  thereby  giving  a  much  closer 
count  than  when  woven,  but  under 
uiis  n  e.hod.  when  allowed  to  shrink, 
no  luster  is  imparted  to  the  fibre.  The 
above  is  the  principle  which  is  em- 
p  oyed  in  the  cloth  considered,  but  the 
application  is  somewhat  different  than 
when  first  used.  It  will  be  noted  that 
the  threads  in  the  cloth  appear 
straight  in  some  stripes,  and  have  a 
crinkled  effect  in  others.  The  threads 
in  the  straight  stripes  are  the  ones 
where  mercerization  has  taken  place, 
and  the  cloth  has  been  allowed  to 
shrink  in  these  spaces,  and  this  forces 
the  rest  of  the  fabric  to  crinkle,  giving 
the  effect  noted. 

ine 

PROCESS  IS  ACCOMPLISHED 

through  the  use  of  the  printing  ma- 
chine, but  as  the  pattern  is  simple, 
no  description  is  required,  excepting 
that  the  change  takes  place  in  stripes 
of  various  widths  in  the  cloth.  There 
are  other  problems  which  are  of 
much  interest  in  the  finishing  of  this 
cloth,  and  while  they  are  of  benefit 
to  the  finisher,  they  are  of  much  more 
value  to  the  firm  having  the  goods  fin- 
ished. It  will  be  noted  that  there  are 
56  picks  per  inch  in  the  grey  cloth, 
and  66  picks  per  inch  in  the  finished 
cloth,  a  net  loss  in  yardage  by  shrink- 
ing of  18  per  cent.  This  is  the  loss  as 
shown  by  the  picks  in  the  cloth,  but 
does  not  include  the  losses  in  finish- 
ing, which  naturally  take  place.  As  a 
general  thing,  the  finisher  charges 
two  cents  per  yard  for  this  class  of 
work,  with  a  working  loss  of  25  per 
cent  in  the  yardage  delivered.  In  ac- 
tual practice,  the  total  loss  to  some 
converters  has  been  21  per  cent,  al- 
though, naturally,  the  patterns  em- 
ployed will  vary  the  loss  somewhat,  as 
the  heavier  the  mercerization  the 
larger  the  loss  in  shrinkage. 

It  is  very  evident  that  a  much  dif- 
ferent situation  exists  regarding 
these    fabrics    than    there    does    on 


I 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


W6 


many  other  lines,  for  a  converter  will 
receive  100  per  cent  or  more  than 
this  amount  of  the  yardage  shipped, 
so  on  very  many  cloths  there  is  no 
actual  loss  in  yardage,  and  there  is 
many  times  a  slight  gain  received,  and 
this  helps  to  partially  cover  the  finish- 
ing charges. 
On  some  fabrics,  the 

ACTUAL  DELIVERIES 

are  from  103  to  105  per  cent  of  the 
yardage  delivered  to  the  finisher, 
the  amount  varying  according  to  the 
cloth  construction  and  other  de- 
tails.    It  will    be    noted    that  the  in- 


yarn,  as  can  be  noted  from  the  cloth 

width  in  the  grey  and  finished  states 
or  from  the  cloth  counts.  Most  of  the 
fabrics  are  sold  in  the  white  or 
bleached  state,  although  a  certain  por- 
tion of  the  lines  are  dyed  various  col- 
ors.    The 

FABRIC  ANALYZED 

is  lighter  in  weight,  and  has  a  some- 
what lower  count  than  many  of  the 
cloths  now  being  sold.  Sometimes  a 
retail  price  of  25  cents  per  yard  is 
charged  for  the  cloth  which  has  only 
a  very  little  different  construction 
than  that  considered,  and  the  jobbing 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

50/1  Am.   combed  warp       —       2,796       —     =      2,876   total   ends. 

20  20 

60/1   Am.  combed  filling.     56   picks. 

35  reed,   40%"  width  in  reed.  38"  grey  width,   30%"  finished  width. 
74    X   56  grey  count;  93   X    66  finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton,  Labor,  waste,  etc. 

50/1  Am.  combed,  1%"  sta. ;   10   hank  dou.  rov.,                   24c.  14%c.          =     38%c. 

60/1  Am    combed,   1%"  .sta.;   14  hank  dou.   ro^'.,                   24c.  15%c.          =     39%c. 

COST. 

2,876   ends  50/1   Am.   combed   +    5%   take-up    =   .0721    @    38%c.      =  $  .0278 

56  picks   60/1    Am.    combed =   .0450    @    39?ic.      =  .0179 

Weaving    .0030 

Expenses     .0063 

$  .0550 
Selling     .0011 

Mill    cost     $  .0561 

Converters    purchasing    price    (about) $  .0600 

Converters  net  cost   of  cloth   allowing   21%   shrinkage .0759 

Finishing    and    mercerizing .0200 

Converters   cost    $   .0959 

Converters    selling   price    (about) $  .1100 

Jobbers   selling   price    (about) .1250 

Retailers    selling    price    .1900 

Yards  pet   pound,   8.53  grey. 

Plain   weave. 


creased  cost  to  the  converter,  because 
of  the  method  of  finishing,  is  about 
IVz  cents  per  yard.  This  is  in  addi- 
tion to  the  regular  finishing  charges 
of  2  cents  per  yard. 

There  is  one  reason  why  this  proc- 
ess is  not  used  to  a  larger  extent,  and 
this  is  because  the  cloth  will  stretch 
somewhat,  although  it  does  not  do  this 
enough  to  render  the  process  of  no 
value,  but  it  would  be  better  if  this 
stretch  could  be  eliminated,  although, 
of  course,  there  is  the  added  objection 
of  the  higher  price  because  of  the  loss 
in  finishing.  The  process  as  employed 
affects  the  flUInB  as  well  as  the  warp 


price  is  then  about  16  cents  a  yard, 
with  a  converter's  price  of  about  14 
cents.  Certain  of  the  warv  threads 
are  made  heavier  in  siz^  because  of 
the  process  employed,  and  the  threads 
tested  in  size  should  be  the  ones 
which  crinkle,  rather  than  the  ones 
which  lie  straight  in  the  cloth. 

That  the  various  methods  of  mer- 
cerization  are  largely  on  the  increase 
can  be  confirmed  by  almost  any  fin- 
isher of  the  better  kinds  of  cloth.  Re- 
cently, the  use  has  been  increased  by 
being  applied  to  voile  fabrics,  al- 
though this  is  not  generally  known 
outside  of  a  comparatively  few  sell- 


286 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


era.  This  process  applied  to  voiles 
gives  a  rounder  yarn,  and  a  much 
clearer  looking  cloth,  which  is  highly 
desirable  on  these  fabrics.  Crepes 
are  also  sometimes  treated  in  this 
manner,  and  it  gives  an  added  appear- 
ance and  an 

INCREASED  VALUE 

to  the  materials.  It  gives  a  much  dif- 
ferent appearance  than  when  a  crepe 
is  made  by  hot  water  shrinking.  Even 
fabrics  made  of  ordinary  print  cloth 
carded  yarn  are  being  treated  in  this 
manner,  and  the  results  produced 
many  times  warrant  the  extra  expen- 
ditures. Only  a  few  years  ago  it  was 
believed  that  the  proc-ess  was  of  little 
value,  except  on  the  better  yarns  and 
on  the  more  expensive  cloths,  but  due 
to  large  use  and  reduction  in  the  cost 
of  finishing,  many  of  the  cheaper  fab- 
rics are  now  being  treated  in  this 
manner,  and  it  ir3  probable  that  much 
more  use  will  be  noted  in  the  future. 

The  finished  yards  per  pound  are 
likely  to  be  about  T>A  to  7%.  It  will 
be  noticed  that  this  is  heavier  than 
the  grey  yardage.  Many  fabrics  are 
lighter  when  finished  than  when  wo- 
ven, and  sometimes  sizing  material  is 
added  to  bring  the  weight  to  about 
that  which  the  grey  cloth  had  pre- 
viously been.  To  obtain  the  weights 
of  yarn  and  the  grey  yards  per  pound 
before  finishing  the  process  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

2,876    ends    h-    (50/1     X    840)    =    .0685,    warp 

weight    without    take-up. 
5%    take-up   in   weaving-. 
.0685    -¥-    .95    =    .0721,    total   warp  weight   per 

yjirrl    of    cloth. 
56  picks  X  40%"  width  In  reed  X  36" 

■ ■    =    2,268 

36" 

yards   of  filling   per  yard   of   cloth. 
2,268    -^    (60/1    X    840)    =   .0450,    total    filling 

weight   per   yard    of   cloth. 
.0721     -f     .0450     =     .1171,     total     weight    per 

yard. 
1.0000     -^     .1171     =     8.54     yards     per    pound 

(grey). 

<»  «  » 


JACQUARD  WAISTING 

The  class  of  fabrics  under  consider- 
ation has  a  large  sale  and  are  used 
not  only  for  waists,  but  also  for  many 
other  purposes.  The  ideas  used  in 
constructing   these    lines    vary    from 


year  to  year  as  fashion  changes,  but 
the  yarns  used  do  not  differ  widely  in 
size  nor  does  the  cloth  weight  change 
n  uch.  Most  of  the  various  grades 
weigh  between  five  and  six  yards  per 
pound,  but  the  warp  and  filling  count 
may  be  widely  different.  The  idea 
used  in  this  cloth  is  a  good  one,  and 
is  adopted  at  various  times  for  bring- 
ing out  effects  on  other  fabrics  be- 
side waistings.  No  large  use  has  been 
n  ade  of  it  tor  some  years,  and  it  is 
very  likely  to  be  in  demand  within  a 
comparatively  short  time.  The  whole 
ground  effect  is  produced  by  having 
cne  light  thread  and  then  one  heavy 
thread  throughout  the  warp.  While 
this  cloth  is  made  with  two  ends  of 
yarn  in  place  of  a  heavy  one,  the  re- 
sult is  the  same  as  if  a  single  heavy 
end  were  used. 

By  this  process  of  drawing-in  ends, 
the  woven  result  is  given  a  sort  of 
ribbed  appearance,  this  effect  being 
made  because  the  heavy  ends  are  all 
raised  together,  m.aking  a  high  place 
in  the  cloth,  whereas  when  the  light 
ends  are  raised  practically  no  rib  is 
made. 

THE   PATTERN 

is  produced  on  a  jacquard  machine, 
and  is  made  wholly  by  raising  t'le  va- 
rious heavy  ends  where  desired.  To 
make  the  cloth  as  firm  as  possible,  the 
weave  of  the  light  ends  is  changed 
where  the  pattern  is  woven  to  a  plain 
weave  on  the  back  of  the  cloth. 
This  is  purely  a  practical  idett 
applied  to  a  cloth  to  produce  a 
better  result.  If  this  was  not  done, 
the  ends  where  the  pattern  is  woven 
would  slip  together,  leaving  a  rath- 
er loose  place  in  the  fabric  and  spoil- 
ing the  effect.  Such  practical  ap- 
plications show  that  experience  has 
taught  the  maker  of  such  fabrics  some 
lessons  which  might  be  well  absorbed 
by  others,  for  we  have  seen  similar 
cloths  which  would  allow  of  much  im- 
provem.ent   along  this   line. 

In  making  patterns  for  fabrics  of 
this  char:icter,  it  is  well  to  bear  in 
mind  that  bad  streaks  are  easily  pro- 
duced either  in  the  warp  or  filling, 
which  are  likely  to  spoil  the  sale.  If 
drop  wires  are  used  In  weaving,  any 


1 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


267 


very  unequal  spacing  of  figures  Is 
liable  to  make  some  threads  with  a 
small  take-up,  and  for  this  reason, 
create  endless  trouble,  unless  the  pat- 
tern is  changed. 

The  yarn  which  forms  the  figure  is 

MERCERIZED    BEFORE    WEAVING, 

because  tension  enough  to  give  satis- 
factory results  would  break  the  light- 
er yarn  in  the  warp.  The  yarns  are 
used  in  the  grey  state,  and  the  fabric 
is  bleached  and  finished,  when  woven, 
practically  the  same  as  any  ordinary 
grey  fabric.  As  a  usual  thing,  this 
class  of  cloths  is  not  a  very  good 
weaving  proposition,  for  the  warp  is 
reeded  two  heddles  or  mail-eyes  to  a 
dent,  and  this  gives  three  ends  per 
dent,  one  a  heavy  end  and  one  a  coai- 
paratively  light  end  and  the  heavy  end 
will  rub  the  light  end,  causing 
trouble  in  some  instances.  The  con- 
struction and  yarns  used  have  a 
great  deal  to  do  with  the 
amount  of  trouble  caused,  although 
no  unusual  weaving  condition  should 
be  noted  in  the  cloth  we  have 
analyzed,  for  the  count  is  low  and 
the  yarns  should  be  able  to  stand  any 
chafing  which  would  occur.  It  is  when 
a  two-ply  end,  which  sizes  from  10-2 
to  20-2,  is  woven  in  the  same  dent 
with  rather  fine  single  yarn  and  a 
rather  fine  reed  that  the  n^^rcentage 
of  production  falls  down  and  deliver- 
ies are  not  made  on  time.  A  large 
amount  of  seconds  are  also  likely,  and 
this  eliminates  a  certain  portion  of 
the  possible  profits.  This  identical 
pattern  could  be  made  on  various  jac- 
quard  m.achines,  but  it  is  probable 
that  it  was  made  on  a  6T0-machine, 
which  was  tied  up  in  the  comber 
board  five  inches  wide,  giving  a  possi- 
ble count  in  the  reed  of  about  120  per 
inch.  We  have  assumed  that  the  mer- 
cerized yarn  was  drawn  in  two-ply, 
and  this  makes  a  smaller  number  of 
harnesses  used.  As  there  are  28G 
ends  used  in  each  repeat,  it  gives  314 
hooks  or  harnesses  to  cast  out; 


600   —  286 


314   cast  out. 


As  a  600-machine  is  built  in  rows  of 
12,  this  makes  26  rows,  and  2  hooks 
cast    out.   or   about   13    rows   in    each 


half-machine.  A  good  method  to  use 
in  casting  out  is  as  follows: 

CAST    OUT    ROW^S. 
3,   4,   7,   8.   11,   12,   15,   16,   19.   20.   23,   24.   25.  28, 
29,    32,   33,   36,    37,    40,    41,    44,    45,    48,    49,  50, 
and   last   two   hooks  in   row    47. 

In  this  cloth  a  rather 

UNUSUAL    CONDITION 
exists,  for  there  are  exactly  6  repeats 
01  the  pattern: 

29  reed    X   30"  reed  width  =   870   total  dents. 
870  — -   12   selvages   =    !i58   cloth   dents. 
858    H-    143   dents  in  a  repeat   =    6   repeats. 

Assuming  that  the  loom  is  tied  up  for 
a  40 -inch  reed  space,  which  many  of 
them  are,  this  would  give  8  repeats 
in  the  harness: 

coo  H-  120  per  Inch  =  5"  repeat. 
40"  -f-  5  =  S  repeats  of  tie-up. 

Under  the  above  conditions  there 
would  be  exactly  two  sections  of  har- 
nesses with  no  ends  weaving,  one  sec- 
tion on  each  side  of  the  loom.  The 
warp  would  then  be  drawn,  starting 
on  the  first  hook  in  room  No.  1  and 
section  No.  2,  and  would  finish  on 
hook  No.  10  in  row  No.  47  and  section 
No.  7.  To  make  the  reed  width  and 
the  harness  width  the  same,  a  dif- 
ferent number  of  ends  should  have 
been   used: 

29   reed   -i-    5"   tie-up   =   145   dents. 

As  143  dents  were  used,  a  stretch  of 
two  dents  in  5  inches,  is  noted,  or 
in  the  whole  cloth  width  a  stretch  of 
12  dents,  or  about  2-5  of  an  inch. 
This  will  cause  no  trouble  in  this 
cloth,  for  it  is  a  comparatively  small 
amount,  and  the  harness  width  is 
wider  than 

THE  REED  WIDTH, 
which  helps  in  the  matter,  but  the 
policy  is  a  bad  one  to  adopt  unless 
care  is  used.  To  obtain  the  correct 
count  in  the  cloth  and  use  a  certain 
ground  weave  sometim.es  makes  a 
stretch  between  harness  and  reed 
necessary,  but  the  amount  should  be 
as  small  as  possible,  as  it  causes  hard 
wear  through  rubbing  on  the  edges  of 
the  cloth,  sometimes  making  a  cloth 
a  poor  running  one  when  it  should 
be  a  good  one.  As  all  the  heavy 
yarn  is  raised  on  one  pick  and  all  the 


Mt 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAET 


light  yam  on  the  next,  a  certain  strain 
on  the  loom  results,  which  should  be 
eliminated  as  much  as  possible  so  as 
not  to  produce  streaky  cloth. 

Because  of  the  low  count,  somewhat 
over  30  per  inch  on  the  ends  which 
produce  the  figure,  the  effects  ob- 
tained are  rather  crude  in  comparison 
with  many  of  the  finer  woven  fabrics. 
A  small  change  where  the  count  is 
low  sometimes  results  in  a  much  bet- 
ter looking  pattern.  The  take-up  in 
weaving  on  the  60-2  is  quite  large,  for 
no  high  tension  is  used,  so  as  to 
accentuate  the  effect  desired.  In  many 
of   these    kinds    of    fabrics,    Egyptian 


production  per  loom  Is  comparatively 
large,  due  to  the  small  number  of 
picks    per    inch. 

In    finishing,    the    fabric    does    not 
shrink  much  in  width  and 

IS    PULLED    SLIGHTLY 

in  length.  The  amount  of  stretch  al- 
ways depends  on  the  construction  of 
the  cloth,  and  the  amount  gained 
might  be  a  different  one  from  two 
mills  producing  the  identical  clotti 
through  operating  warps  at  different 
tensions.  The  cotton  stock  soaietiaies 
makes  a  difference,  because  if  a  yarn 
is  weak  it  will  not  run  satisfactorily 


30/1    Am.    combed    grey. 


80/2   Eg.    combed   mercerized. 


PATTERN. 

2 

2 

12 

1 

2 
1 

12 

2,622  total  ends. 


30/1    Am.    combed   filling;    60   picks. 
29    reed;    30"  width   in   reed,    28"   grey    width,    27%" 
94    X    58  finished  count. 

YARNS. 


85iiX 


finished   width;    93    X    60   grey  count; 


30/1  Am.  combed,  114"  sta.;  6  hank  dou.  rov., 
60/2  Eg.  combed,  l%"sta.;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 
30/1  Am.   combed,  IH"  sta. ;    7  hank  dou.  rov.. 


Cotton. 

loc. 
26  c. 
ICc. 


Labor, 

waste, 

etc. 

Sc, 

17c. 

814  c. 


Twisting, 
merceriz- 
ing, etc. 


COST. 

906  ends  30/1   Am.  combed +     5%   take-up  =  .0379   ®   24c. 

1,716  ends   60/2   Eg.     combed -f    17%   take-up   =  .0820    @    55c. 

60   picks   30/1    Am.    combed =   .0714    @    24 %c. 

Weaving    

Expenses     

Selling     


Mill  or  grey  cost. 


Price  to  converter  (about) . 
Finishing,  bleaching,  etc.  .  . 
Price   to   retailer    (about)... 

Price   to   consumer    

Yards  per  pound,    5.23    (grey). 


24c. 
55c. 
24V4C. 


$  .0091 
.0451 
.0173 
.0127 
.0165 
.0021 

$  .1028 

$  .1200 
.0125 
.1650 
.2500 


cotton  is  used  for  the  yarn  which  is 
mercerized,  a  better  gloss  being  ob- 
tained in  this  manner.  Another  thing 
which  helps  in  giving  added  sheen  is  to 
make  the  two-ply  yarn  of  soft  twist, 
which  is  most  always  done.  Because 
yarn  is  made  soft  twist,  it  is  almost 
always  used  in  the  two-ply  form  to 
give  satisfactory  strength  to  handle 
when  mercerized  in  the  yarn  state, 
although  much  soft  twist  single  yarn 
is  used  when  cloth  is  mercerized  in 
the  piece.  Jacquard  looms  are  not 
operated  so  fast  as  dobby  looms  which 
make  the  same  kind  of  cloth,  but  the 


under  high  tension,  and  the  use  of 
drop-wires  will  also  affect  the  result. 
No  large  amount  of  knowledge  is 
necessary  in  making  up  designs  for 
a  cloth  of  this  nature.  To  obtain  the 
best  effects,  a  little  care  is  necessary, 
but  the  amount  of  sketching  and 
painting  is  small,  and  little  more  time 
would  be  required  to  lay  out  this  de- 
sign than  that  on  many  complicated 
dobby  patterns.  To  get  a  good  cloth 
construction,  which  can  be  made  and 
sold  at  a  price  to  return  a  good  profit, 
requires  much  more  ability,  and  to 
produce  and  sell  a  satisfactory  cloth 


I 


jl  cotton  fabrics  glossary 


269 


construction,  similar  to  the  one  an- 
alyzed, largely  overshadows  the  small 
ability  required  in  fitting  the  design 
to  cloth. 

It  is  becoming  a  matter  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  buyers  to  have 
men  who  can  produce  fabrics  at  a 
price,  and  a  large  share  of  responsi- 
bility has  been  taken  from  mills,  es- 
pecially those  making  what  might  be 
called  the  newer  fabrics.  At  the  mills 
the  idea  is  simply  worked  out  on  the 
construction  ordered.  The  cloth  con- 
struction and  price  are  of  far  more 
importance  in  the  sale  than  the  de- 
signs in  the  majority  of  instances,  al- 
though naturally  a  satisfactory  effect 
helps  the  sale  on  any  cloth,  and  a 
poor  design  will  sometimes  kill  a  good 
idea.  The  aim  should  always  be  to 
obtain  the  best  results.  The  weights 
are  obtained  as  follows: 

906    ends    -*-    (840    X    30/1)     =    .0360,    weight 

of   30/1    without    take-up. 
5%    take-up   In   wenving-. 
.0360    -T-    .95    =    .0379,    weight    of    30/1    with 

take-up. 
1.716   ends   -4-    (840    X    60/2)    =   .0681,   weight 

of   60/2   without   take-up. 
17%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0681    -H    .83    =    .0820,    weight    of    60/2    with 

take-up. 
60  picks  X  30"  reed  width  X  36" 

=    1,800  yds. 

36" 

of   filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 

1,800    -i-     (840     X     30/1)    =    .0714,    weight   of 

filling. 
.0379   -f-    .0820    +   .0714   =   .1913.   total  weight 

per   yard. 
1.0000    ~    .1913     =     5.23    yards    per    pound. 

(grey). 


■♦  *  » 


FANCY  ALlrOVER  LENO 

In  the  selling  of  various  fabrics 
there  appears,  with  more  or  less  fre- 
quency, a  cloth  on  which  the  price  is 
excessive.  Possibly  such  occurrences 
are  more  numerous  in  the  sale  of  silk 
fabrics  than  they  are  with  those  of 
other  materials,  but,  nevertheless, 
they  do  occur  in  all  lines.  That  such 
prices  are  justified  may  be  the  conten- 
tion of  many  sellers,  and  their  argu- 
ment is  well  taken,  if  novelty  and 
newness  be  considered,  but  consumers 
must  expect  to  obtain  but  little  actual 
relative  value  when  comparison  is 
made  with  other  fabrics.  Instead  of 
paying  for  value,  they  pay  largely  for 


style,  and  many  purchasers  are  will- 
ing that  such  should  be  the  case. 

There  is  one  glaring  injustice  in  the 
method  as  at  present  in  force,  and 
this  is  regarding  the  prices  received 
by  the  various  sellers.  It  is  a  fact 
that  many  mills,  and  some  converters, 
are  continually  attempting  to  produce 
something  different,  either  in  regard 
to  patterns  or  constructions,  and  that 
they  bring  successful  results  is  amply 
proven  by  an  examination  of  some  of 
the  lines  shown  to-day,  but  inasmuch 
as  most  mills  are  not  in  touch  with 
selling  to  the  retailer  or  consumer 
and  have  no  way  in  which  to  gauge 
the  possibilities  of  any  cloth,  they  in- 
variably lose  all  or  a  large  part  of 
the  benefits  which  should  come  to 
them   for   their   ability   in   originality. 

On 

THE    OTHER    EXTREME, 

the  retailer  stands  between  consumer 
and  seller,  and  acts  as  a  bear  to 
sellers'  prices  and  a  bull  to  the  prices 
which  the  consumer  must  pay.  In 
this  manner  it  is  possible  for  him  to 
obtain  excessively  high  prices  on  a 
fabric  which  shows  novelty  and  style, 
and  on  which  the  other  sellers  have 
obtained  but  comparatively  small  re- 
turns. This  exerts  a  double  ef- 
fect, for  it  causes  a  small  distri- 
bution with  a  high  cost  of  production 
and  effectually  blocks  the  way  for 
a  mill  to  obtain  the  returns  which 
should  be  received  from  a  large  sale 
and  a  lowering  of  production  cost,  and 
the  other  effect  is  that  which  con- 
sumers obtain  regarding  excessive 
mill  profits.  In  other  words,  it  makes 
a  fabric  which  might  be  a  compara- 
tively large  seller  with  generous 
profits  to  all,  a  very  small  seller  with 
the  retailer  obtaining  the  large 
profits,  and  profits  which  are  not  de- 
served through  any  excess  of  ability 
on  his  part. 

Of  course,  this  statement  does  not 
mean  that  the  retailer  should  not  ob- 
tain more  than  his  ordinary  profit  on 
a  cloth  which  shows  a  novelty  char- 
acter, for  this  is  not  true,  as  he  is 
taking  a  larger  chance  on  such  ma- 
terials, but  it  does  mean  that  where 
a  few  cents  added  to  the  maker's 
price  will  give  him  highly  satisfactory 


270 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


returns,  such  an  addition  will  make  an 
insignificant  appearance  on  the  price 
to  the  consumers.  Take  the  cloth  we 
are  considering  as  an  illustration 
of  this  statement.  One  cent  per  yard 
to  a  maker  will  yield  a  profit  per  loom 
per  week  of  about  $3,  because  pro- 
duction is  high,  due  to  the  small 
number  of  picks  per  inch,  even  with 
a  slow  loom  speed  and  a  low  per- 
centage of  production.  Thus  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  profit  per  year  at 
a  net  profit  of  one  cent  per  yard  will 
be  about  $150,  and  with  a  total  valu- 
ation   of    $1,000    per    loom,    which    is 


order     will     sometimes    be     novelties 
which  never  should  have  been  includ- 
ed,  and  which  mills   should  have  re 
fused  to  make. 

"We  have  seen  leno  stripes  sold  in 
the  above  manner  at  514  cents  per 
yard  which  no  mill  could  make  for 
less  than  9  cents,  and  which  some  of 
the  successive  sellers  would  place  in 
a  higher  classification,  thereby  de- 
liberately deceiving  the  mill  regarding 
the  retail  prices  and  on  which  the 
mill  should  have  received  a  higher 
price.  Some  sellers  think  such  prac- 
tices  are  justified  and   that   mills  are 


Fancy  All-Over  Leno. 


high,  the  net  profit  would  be  about 
15  per  cent,  an  entirely 

SATISFACTORY  RETURN. 

We  ask  in  all  fairness  to  a  mill 
whether  or  not  such  a  return 
should  be  realized,  especially  when 
the  price  of  this  cloth  at  retail  is 
$1.25  per  j^ard.  It  can  be  stated  as 
a  fact  that  many  times  fabrics  of  high 
novelty  character  are  sold  by  mills 
at  lower  comparative  prices  than 
some  of  the  plainer  lines.  This  may 
seem  strange,  but  it  is  done  through 
the  method  of  selling,  for  many  times 
a  blanket  order  is  placed,  and  in  this 


at  fault  when  it  is  done,  but  this  does 
not  appear  entirely  true,  for  sellers 
often  say  the  good  patterns  carry 
along  the  others,  while  the  facts  are 
that  higher  prices  are  charged  for  the 
better  ideas. 

The  cloth  we  have  analyzed  is  one 
of  such  cases.  Whether  the  retailer 
is  obtaining  an  enormous  profit  or 
whether  some  previous  seller  is  ob- 
taining large  returns  is  not  known, 
but  it  is  practically  certain  that  no 
mill  could  receive  a  high  enough  price 
to  justify  such  a  retail  price,  namely, 
$1.25  a  yard.  Of  course,  the  material 
is  an  all-over  leno,  but  there  is  noth- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


271 


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272 


A   COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ing  about  the  manufacturing  of  it 
which  any  fancy  mill  with  wide 
enough  looms  could  not  accomplish. 
If  the  leno  yarn  were  of  fine  char- 
acter and  liable  to  cause  trouble,  it 
would  be  a  different  matter,  but  the 
yarn  used  is  strong  and  little  break- 
age should  occur. 

The  cloth  count  is  also  low  and  aids 
in  the  weaving  operation,  while  there 
are  few  picks  per  inch,  giving  a  large 
yardage  per  loom  with  a  correspond- 
ing decrease  in  production  cost.  We 
have  seen  large  quantities  of  all-over 
lenos  produced  during  the  past  few 
years,  and  sold  at  about  17  cents  a 
yard,  when  the  actual  cost  of  produc- 
tion was  as  high  or  higher  than  this 
cloth,  and  the  cloth  was  also  a  bad 
weaver  with  a  large  number  of  sec- 
onds, and  what  is  more,  the  mills 
were  very  glad  to  obtain  the  orders, 
even  under  such  conditions,  for,  as 
previously  stated,  the  large  production 
returned    satisfactory   profits. 

Inasmuch  as  this  fabric  is  some- 
what different  from  those  usually  seen, 
it  may  be  well  to  give  more  informa- 
tion regarding  the  making.  To  pro- 
duce a  leno 

A  DIFFERENT  HARNESS 
is  used.  This  consists  of  a  standard 
harness  with  heddles  placed  on  it, 
similar  to  those  ordinarily  used,  but 
with  extra  heddle  eyes.  In  addition 
to  this  harness  is  another  wiaich  con- 
tains no  heddles,  but  which  has  what 
are  called  doups,  or  loose  yarn,  which 
are  attached  to  the  base  of  this  extra 
harness  and  which  pass  through  the 
eyes  of  the  standard  harness.  This 
arrangement  allows  free  play  to  the 
doup  harness,  but  another  arrange- 
ment is  made  whereby,  when  the 
standard  harness  is  raised,  the  doup 
is  also  raised.  The  crossing  or  doup- 
ing  end  is  not  drawn  through  the 
heddle  eye,  but  through  the  doup  loop. 
An  examination  of  draft  and  chain 
will  show  the  process  and  the  method 
in  which  the  various  harnesses  oper- 
ate. Instead  of  one  doup,  there 
are  two  necessary  in  this  cloth  to 
produce  the  pattern,  because  while 
some  threads  are  changing,  others  are 
remaining  either  up  or  down.  It  will 
be  noted  that  on  the   chain -draft  we 


have  used  two  harnesses  alike.  No. 
7  and  No.  9.  This  is  more  for  con- 
venience than  for  any  other  reason, 
and  it  may  also  help  in  operation.  Be- 
cause of  the  different  weave  it  is  nec- 
essarj'  to  have  two  beams  for  the 
crossing   yarns. 

It  ^vill  be  noticed  that  the  crossing 
yarn  is  raised  continually,  while  the 
ground  yarn,  which  is  drawn  in  two- 
ply,  is  continually  depressed,  a  con- 
dition which  in  any  other  material 
would  not  produce  a  fabric  at  all,  but 
which  in  this  and  similar  lines  makes 
a  satisfactory  cloth.  In  the  weaving 
operation,  the  crossing  ends  have  a 
much  larger  take-up  than  do  the 
ground  ends.  This  is  shown  in  the 
analysis,  for  the  crossing  threads 
take  up  38  per  cent,  while  the  ground 
yarn  takes  up  but  11  per  cent.  In 
making  fabrics  of  this  nature  it  is 
customary  to  leave  empty  dents  in 
the  reed  in  planning  the  cloth.  This 
gives  a  chance  for  the  leno  to  spread 
and  gives  better  results  in  certain  in- 
stances. We  have  done  this  in  our 
layout  and  the  empty  dents  are  clear- 
ly designated.  When  a  fine  count 
ground  is  used  with  leno  stripes  it 
is  sometimes  necessary  to  skip  not 
one  but  a  number  of  dents  to  make 
the  right  effect,  and  it  is  also  some- 
times necessary  to  take  out  dents  in 
the  reed  to  allow  room  for  the  vari- 
ous ends  to  operate,  for  they 

ARE  OFTENTIMES  CROWDED, 
and  the  heavy  crossing  end,  which  is 
many  times  used,  will  break  the  fine 
ground  threads,  causing  a  large 
amount  of  trouble.  Much  care  has 
to  be  exercised  in  making  any  kind 
of  leno  cloth,  for  the  breaking  of  a 
doup  through  wear,  or  the  breaking  of 
one  of  the  ends  in  weaving,  will  pro- 
duce a  bad  place  in  the  fabric,  much 
worse  than  would  occur  in  the  ordi- 
nary cloths.  When  the  crossing  ends 
are  in  a  crossed  position,  or  in  other 
words,  when  both  doup  and  standard 
harnesses  are  raised,  it  is  necessary 
to  have  an  arrangement  whereby  ex- 
tra crossing  yarn  is  let  off.  This  is 
necessary  to  ensure  satisfactory  weav- 
ing conditions,  for  the  crossing  end 
passes  under  the  ground  threads  and 
more    yam    length    is    needed    if    no 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


273 


breakages  occur.  When  the  crossing 
end  returns,  the  yarn  is  pulled  back. 
Where  the  slackener  is  marked  in  the 
chain  shows  the  pick  when  each  oper- 
ates. Usually  the  head  is  adapted  so 
it  can  operate  a  whip  roll  arrange- 
ment to  give  the  extra  yarn  when  the 
threads  cross.  The  jumper  lifts  the 
harnesses  No.  7  and  No.  9  half  way 
and  is  of  much  service  in  straighten- 
ing out  the  doups  on  the  ordinary 
double  lift  dobby  loom.  The  weights 
of  the  yarns  used  and  the  yards  per 
pound  are  obtained  as  follows: 


1.148   ends    -►-    (40/3    X    840;    —    .1025,   ground 

warp    weight    without    take-up. 
11%    take-up    In    weaving. 
.1025     -^     .89     =     .1152,     total     ground    warp 

weight     per    yard. 
2.8    ends    -i-    (40/3    X    840)    =    .0248,    crossing 

warp    weight    without    take-up. 
38%    take-up   in    weaving. 
.0248     -^     .62     =     .0400,    total    crossing     warp 

weight  both   on   beam   2   and  beam   3. 
47"  width  in  reed  X  30  picks  per  inch  X  36" 

36" 

1,110   yards  of   filling   per   yard. 
1,410   -H    (40/3    X    840)    =    .1259,   total  weight 

of    filling    per    yard. 
.1152     -I-     .0400     -f     .0400     +     .1259     =     .3211, 

total    weight   per   yard. 
1.0000  -7-  .3211   =   3.11  yards  per  pound. 


PATTERN. 


40/3    Am.    combed. 


40/3  Am.  combed. 
40/3  Am.  combed. 


1      2 

.> 

2 

1 

18 

1 

1 

2 

2 

2 

1 

18 

=      1,148  beam  1. 


=         278  beam  2. 
=         278  beam  3. 


139X 
40/3    Am.   combed   filling.      30   picks. 

24  reed,   47"  width  in  reed,   42"  grey  width,   42"  finished  width. 
40    X    30  allover  finlslied  count. 

YARN. 


1,704  total   ends. 


Cotton. 
20c. 


Labor, 

waste,   etc. 

10%c. 


Twisting. 
3c. 


33 1,2  c. 


40/3  Am.  combed,  1%"  sta. ;  8  hank  dou.  rov 
Warp  and  filling  of  same  yarn. 

COST. 

1,148   ends     40/3   Am.   combed +    11%   take  up   =   .1152 

278    ends     40/3    Am.    combed -f-    38%   take-up   =   .0400    @    33%c. 

278   ends     40/3    Am.    combed +   38%,   take-up   =   .0400    @    33Vi>c. 

30  picks   40/3   Am.   combed =   .1259    @    33  Vic. 

Weaving    .' 

Expenses     


33 '^c. 


Selling     

Mill    cost    . 
Finishing,    etc. 
Yards  per  pound.   3.11   grey. 
Retail  price,   $1.25  per  yard. 


=  $  .0386 
=  .0134 
=  .0134 
=  .0422 
.0389 
.0088 

$   .1553 
.0031 


$   .1584 


COTTON  SURF  SERGE 

This  fabric  is  one  of  a  variety 
which  we  have  not  considered  to  any 
great  extent  previously  and  inasmuch 
as  there  are  rather  interesting  fea- 
tures regarding  the  cloth  and  its  fin- 
ishing, it  may  be  well  to  give  an 
analysis  of  a  typical  construction.  As 
a  general  thing,  these  cloths  are  used 
for  linings  and  similar  uses,  although 
they  are  also  used  for  dresses  and 
many  other  i)urposfs.  and  the  fa'iric 
In  question  was  sold  for  the  making 
of  bathing  suits,  although  v/e  should 
Imagine  the  utility  would  be  limited  in 
this  direction  for  various  reasons. 

While    this    identical    cloth    has    a 


twill  weave,  the  construction  is  very 
similar  to  that  of  many  fine  satins, 
that  is,  the  same  yarns  are  used  and 
the  cloth  count  is  similar,  the  weaves 
alone  making  the  different  appearance 
when  woven.  Twill  and  satin  weaves 
woven  on  the  same  number  of  har- 
nessts  are  practically  Identic  il,  be- 
cause a  satin  weave  is  nothing  more 
or  less  than  a  twill  weave  rearranged. 
The  first  difference  noted  between 
such  a  fabric  as  the  one  analyzed  and 
most  of  the  ordinary  cloths  is  one  of 
construction.    In  a  plain  cloth 

IT  IS  NOT  NECESSARY 
to  have  nearly  as  high  a  count  as  it 
is    with    a    weave    such    as    has    been 
used.     When   a   cloth   is   woven,   the 


2U 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


number  of  threads  and  picks  per  inch 
and  also  the  weave,  together  with  the 
yarn  size,  regulate  the  cloth  firm- 
ness, that  is,  a  plain  weave  contains 
two  warp  threads  in  a  repeat,  but  the 
filling  yarn  crosses  between  each 
thread,  making  it  necessary  to  Iiave  a 
certain  amount  of  space  between  each 
thread  to  allow  for  this  crossing,  while 
in  a  cloth  where  the  weave  does  not 
change  on  every  thread,  fewer  spaces 
for  crossings  are  necessary  and,  there- 
fore, to  make  the  cloth  as  firm  as  with 
plain  weave,  a  larger  number  of 
threads  or  picks  are  necessary,  if  yarn 
sizes  be  identical  in  each  fabric.  Be- 
cause of  the  fine  yarn  sizes  and  the 
weave  used  this  cloth  has  a  high 
count,  namely,  100  x  172  finished.  In 
the  first  place  it  may  be  stated  that 
a  good  deal  of  cloth  such  as  that  con- 
sidered is  made  on  cam  looms  and  the 
problem  of  manufacture  is  somewhat 
similar  to  that  noted  when  plain  cloths 
are  made. 

This  material  is  a  quality  product, 
for  the  yarns  are  well  made,  the  weav- 
ing is  even,  and  the  result  when  fin- 
ished is  very  satisfactory.  The  yarn 
sizes  are  no  finer  than  many  of  the 
up-to-date  mills  make  continually  and 
in  large  quantities,  but  sometimes  in 
such  a  cloth  as  this  better  cotton 
would  be  used  than  if  the  yarn  were 
to  be  used  in  so  r.e  other  kind  of 
cloth.  This  is  done  because  there  is 
an  excessive  amount  of  friction  on 
the  yarn  due  to  the  high  number  of 
picks  per  inch  and  resulting  slow 
weaving,  and  unless  good  yarn  is  used 
loom  production  will  be  unsatisfac- 
tory. The  large  amount  of  filling  on 
the  surface  makes  it  necessary  for 
that  yarn  to  be  even,  and  to  obtain  a 
soft  fabric  the  twist  in  the  filling  is 
likely  to  be  less  than  if  used  in  other 
cloths.  Comparatively  few  cloths  are 
produced  with  as  high  a  count  as  this 
fabric.  The  take-up  in  weaving 
is  very  small  and  in  most  cases  the 
filling  yarn  shows  a  greater  shrinkage 
than  the  warp. 

There  is  one  item  regarding  this 
sort  of  cloth 

WHICH   AFFECTS   ITS   COST 

greatly,  and  this  is  the  high  number 
of  picks  per  inch.  When  a  mill  is 
making   voiles,    poplins,    shirtings,    or 


some  other  classes  of  goods  the  large 
production  in  yards  per  loom  or  per 
weaver  makes  the  weaving  and  ex- 
pense costs  comparati.  ely  low,  and 
while  vr  uch  economy  is  possible,  it  will 
affect  the  ultimate  cost  but  little,  yet 
on  such  a  fabric  as  that  considered  the 
labor  cost  is  high,  due  to  the  small 
production,  and  there  is  a  great  chance 
for  economy  in  producing,  with  a  cor- 
responding reduction  in  cloth  cost. 
Another  thing  which  has  to  be  con- 
sidered in  this  same  direction  is  the 
obtaining  of  profits. 

With  a  loom  weaving  voiles  or  sim- 
ilar low  pick  cloth,  a  profit  of  one- 
half  cent  a  yard  might  return  satis- 
factory dividends  because  of  large 
loom  production,  but  when  the  picks 
per  inch  are  as  high  as  in  this  cloth 
with  the  resulting  small  yardage,  a 
much  greater  return  a  yard  is  neces- 
sary if  the  same  ultimate  profit  be 
secured  from  operation.  It  is  entirely 
possible  that  a  part  of  the  recent  par- 
tial operation  in  fine  and  fancy  mills 
has  been  due  to  the  kinds  of  cloth 
made,  that  is,  the  cloths  sold  have 
been  largely  voiles  and  poplins,  both 
made  with  a  small  number  of  picks 
per  inch,  and  while  the  yardage  pro- 
duced may  not  be  much  smaller  than 
usual  it  has  been  insufficient  to  give 
mills  all  they  desired  in  the  way  of 
orders.  A  return  to  fabrics  with  a 
larger  number  of  picks  would,  without 
doubt,  aid  much  in  making  a  better 
condition  in  fine  and  fancy  goods  man- 
ufacture. 

What  the  above 

REFERENCE   TO   PROFITS    MEANS 

will  perhaps  be  clearer  by  stating  that 
a  net  profit  of  2  cents  a  yard  on  such 
a  fabric  as  this  will  only  return  a  prof- 
it of  about  $1..55  per  week,  or  about 
$80  per  year  per  loom.  Assuming  that 
a  loom  valuation,  or  cost  of  a  mill  per 
loom,  be  about  $600,  and  this  is  con- 
servative, the  profits  per  year  would 
only  amount  to  about  13  per  cent, 
surely  not  an  excessive  amount  in 
comparison  to  what  other  sellers  of 
cloth  many  times  receive. 

As  stated  previously,  there  are  in- 
teresting features  regarding  the  finish- 
ing of  this  cloth.  Probably  most  of 
such  material  i  dyed  a  black  shade, 
though  this  is  not  necessary,  except- 


I 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


275 


ing  when  used  for  certain  purposes. 
In  many  lines  a  full  range  of  colors  is 
sold. 

There  is,  however,  one  thing  which 
is  noted  as  soon  as  the  cloth  is  seen, 
and  this  is  the  luster,  the  face  of  the 
cloth  having  a  sheen  which  the  back 
does  not.  In  finishing  such  fabrics  it 
is  customary  to  singe  off  all  the  cotton 
fibres  which  project  and  this  gives  a 
rather  smooth  surface.  Of  course  siz- 
ing 11  ateriais  are  used,  the  Ingredients 
depending  on  the  results  desired  when 
finished,  but  in  addition  a  calendering 
process  is  employed. 

Sometimes  a  fabric  is  finished  dou- 
ble fold,  thus  giving  the  face  a  gloss 
which  the  back  does  not  have,  and 
sometimes  an  extra  fabric  is  used  as 
a  back  cloth  and  the  material  is  run 
full  width.  In  this  case  the  top  roll 
does  the  pressing.  There  is  in  this 
fabric  a  novel  feature  which  is  not 
oftentimes  used  and  this  can  be  seen 
by  examining  carefully  with  a  magni- 
fying glass.  On  the  fabric  there  ap- 
pears innumerable  fine  lines  which 
run  in  opposite  direction  to  the  twill 
weave  of  the  cloth.  This  is  done  by 
having  the  pressing  roll  milled  in  a 
manner  to  produce  the  effect. 

Though  it  may  not  be  generally 
known, 

IT  IS  A  FACT 

that  the  reflection  of  light  produces 
a  gloss  and  this  reflection  is  made 
possible  by  pressing  lines  into  the  fin- 
ished fabric.  Some  have  been  in- 
clined to  believe  in  the  past  that  the 
excessive  luster  which  some  cloths 
had  was  either  made  through  the  use 
of  n^ohair  or  th^-ou?]!  s^'zin?  and 
pressing,  but  in  many  instances  it  is 
the  method  of  pressing  rather  than 
the  pressing  alone  which  has  pro- 
dncprt  results  such  as  tb'^s'^  Keen  on  t  e 
cloth  analyzed.  Naturally  any  press- 
ing or  Tnilling  on  a  cotton  fabric  will 
disappear  when  the  material  is 
washed,  and  will  also  decline  in  luster 
through  use  without  washing,  so  such 
a  finish  is  not  permanent,  although 
the  result  noted  wh^n  s""''!  nniroa'^'ipy 
very  many  all-silk  fabrics.  One  other 
reason  which  tends  to  make  prices 
closer  on  various  lines  of  satins  Is 
that  orders  are  for  quite  large 
amounts,  possibly  not  so  large  as  for 


plain  constructions,  but  much  larger 
than  for  fancies.  Fewer  colors  are 
usually  required  when  finished  and 
this  tends  to  keep  finishing  costs 
rather  low. 

The  cost  of  production  places  this 
cloth  in  a  much  higher  retail  price 
than  is  noted  on  other  cotton  fabrics 
which  do  not  have  a  fancy  weave  or 
a  novelty  construction.  The  material 
used  in  this  fabric  costs  about  47  per 
cent  of  the  total  amount,  leaving  53 
per  cent  for  labor  and  expenses,  while 
in  very  many  other  fine  cloths  the 
material  constitutes  about  60  per  cent 
of  the  cost,  with  labor  forming  about 
40  per  cent.  Some  kinds  of  coarse 
fabrics  have  labor  costs  as  low  as  15 
per  cent  of  the  total,  and  the  above 
statement  shows  how  important  care- 
fulness in  management  is  in  the  pro- 
ducing of  such  cloths.  To  have  the 
pressing  or  milling  give  as  good  re- 
sults r.s  pof^sible,  the  rloth  should  not 
have  a  great  amount  of  tension  in  the 
width  when  being  processed.  This 
accounts  for  the  larger  amount  of 
shrirkaee  in  cloth  width,  when  com- 
pared with  other  cloths  in  finishing. 

Very  many  fabrics  of  this  nature 
HAVE  A  WARP  COUNT 
of  96,  and  the  number  of  picks  are 
varied  according  to  the  yarn  sizes 
and  the  weave  used.  Sometimes  the 
number  of  picks  is  regulated  to  an 
extent  by  the  price,  and  if  a  buyer 
needs  to  get  inside  of  a  certain  limit, 
the  reduction  is  usually  made  through 
a  lowering  of  the  picks  per  inch. 
There  is  a  certain  amount  of  stretch 
when  the  cloth  is  finished,  but  it  is 
not  so  large  as  on  some  varieties  of 
fine  plain  material.  To  obtain  the 
yavds  per  pound  and  the  weights  of 
the  yarns  used  the  process  is  as  fol- 
lows : 

3.640  ends   H-    (fiO/1    X    840)    =   .0722,    weight 

of   v^rp  without   t^ke-up. 
3%    t;ike-un    in    wpavlnp. 
.0722    ->    .97    =    ,0744.    total    weiKht    of    warp 

nor    v.irrl. 
176  picks  X  40"  width  In  reed  X  36" 

=      7.040 

36" 
vnrds    of    filling    per    yard    of    cloth. 
7.040    -4-    <60/l     X     840)     =»    ,1397.    weight    of 

filling    nor   yard. 
0744     +     ,1397     =     .2141,     total     weight     per 

vrrl. 

1.0000    -i-    .2141    =    4.67    yards   per   lb.    (grey). 

Some  mills  would  not  make  two 
sizes   of  roving  If  they  were  produc- 


27« 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ing  60-1  warp  and  60-1  filling,  but  Ing  for  filling  than  for  warp,  although 
would  make  both  yarns  from  one  size  there  are  cloths  where  the  making  of 
of  roving.  This  method  makes  a  the  same  size  yarns  would  give  en- 
shorter  draft  possible  lor  th  ^  warp,  tirely  satisfactory  results  and  might 
and  increases  the  cost  for  warp  while  aid  in  reducing  the  cost  beside  mak- 
reducing  it  for  filling.  If  12  hank  be  ing  a  smaller  number  of  roving  sizes 
used  for  both  yarns,  it  is  all  right  for  in  process.  Results  desired  will  gov- 
warp  but  makes  too  large  a  draft  for  ern  the  methods  employed  to  a  great- 
filling  if  the  best  results  be  desired.  er  or  less  extent,  and  the  other  cloths 
Where  quality  filling  is  necessary  being  made  may  also  have  more  or 
it  probably  is  better  to  use  a  finer  rov-  less  influence   on  the  policy  adopted. 

PATTERN. 
4  4 

60/1    Am.    combed    warp        —       3,560       —     =      3,640    ends. 

10  10 

60/1    Am.   combed    filling.      176    picks. 

45    reed;    4  0"   width   in   reed.   38%"   grey   width,    36"    finished   width. 
100    X    172   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton.     Labor,  waste,  etc. 
60/1  Am.  combed  warp,     1%"  sta.;  12  hank  dou.  rov.,  24c.  16%c.  =      40M!C. 

60/1  Am.  combed  filling,  1%"  sta.;  14  hank  dou.  rov..  24c.  15%c.  =      39%c. 

COST. 

3,640   ends    60/1    Am.    combed +    3%    take-up   =   .0744    @    40%c.      =   $   .0301 

176  picks  60/1  Am.   combed =   .1397    @    39?ic.      =        .0555 

Weaving    .0226 

Expenses     .0258 

$  .1340 
Selling .0027 

Mill    cost    $.1367 

Mill   selling   price    (about) $  .1550 

Finishing,    dyeing,    etc .0150 

Converter's    cost    $   .1700 

Converter's    selling    price    (about) $  .2000 

Jobber's   sel'ing  price    (about) .2400 

Retail    price     .3500 

Yards  per  pound,   4.67  grey. 
1 

Weave  twill. 

4 

♦-•-♦ 


SILK  MIXTURE  WAVE  CREPE 

There  are  a  number  of  interesting 
features  in  the  fabric  which  is  being 
considered.  These  cloths  are  used 
for  a  number  of  purposes,  but  the 
largest  distribution  is  made  for  dress 
materials.  Usually  such  materials 
are  produced  in  cotton  mills  and  are 
sold  at  comparatively  low  prices  when 
the  detail  necessary  in  making  is  con- 
sidered; also,  the  fact  that  the  warp 
is  made  entirely  of  silk  yarn  which 
creates  more  or  less  trouble  until 
operatives  become  used  to  handling 
the  silk  yarn.  There  is  a  more  or 
less  regular  demand  for  fabrics  of 
this  character,  but  it  will  be  noted 
that  the  retailer  was  disposing  of  quite 
a  stock  of  goods  at  22  cents  per  yard, 


a  price  which  is  unusually  low  and 
which  indicates  that  some  previous 
seller  offered  the  cloth  at  a  decided 
loss.  Such  material  is  often  sold 
through  a  jobber,  and  sometimes 
from  the  converting  jobber  direct  to 
the  retailer,  and  naturally  prices  will 
vary  somewhat,  but  this  fabric  can- 
not be  sold  at  22  cents  per  yard  and 
offer  any  chance  of  profits  to  the 
various  sellers. 

Manufacturers    seldom    make    such 
fabrics  unless  at 

A  GREATER  OR  LESS  PROFIT, 
for  the  goods  are  made  on  contract 
and  competition  is  not  very  kbcn,  so 
it  is  unlikely  that  the  Tuill  selling 
price  was  much  below  15i^  cents,  and 
it  probably  was  higher  than  this. 
Then  added  to  this  price  is  the  charge 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


277 


for  finishing  and  the  profits  which  us- 
ually go  to  the  sellers  of  a  high-class 
novelty  fabric.  Under  the  circum- 
stances it  is  evident  that  some  con- 
verter held  a  surplus  stock  which  was 
disposed  of  at  a  sacrifice,  making  a 
low  retail  price  possible.  It  is  prob- 
ably true  that  silk  and  cottons  such 
as  these  have  been  affected  more  or 
less  by  the  lack  of  interest  in  other 
silk  and  cotton  fabrics  which  were 
killed  by  certain  converters  and  con- 
verting jobbers  a  year  ago  by  cutting 
the  cloth  construction  to  a  point  where 
little  actual  value  remained. 


probably  most  mills  using  about  22-24. 
We  have  used  180,000  yards 

AS    THE    STANDARD 

in  obtaining  the  weights,  but  this  is 
not  the  theoretical  yardage,  and  is 
used  in  this  size  to  allow  a  certain 
amount  of  protection  to  cloth  maker 
for  variation  in  silk  size.  This  cloth 
is  called  a  serpentine  crepe.  Con- 
sumers would  hardly  recognize  the 
similarity  to  many  ordinary  crepe  de 
chines,  but  the  fact  is  they  are  very 
similar,  sometimes  being  made  of 
identical    yarns    and    with    the    same 


Silk   Mixture  Wave  Crepe. 


The  sales  of  such  lines  at  low  prices 
Indicate  how  hard  some  sellers  were 
pinched,  for  retailers  are  to-day  offer- 
ing certain  cloths  for  8i^  cents  in  a 
finished  and  dyed  state  which  cost 
the  mill  from  13  to  14  cents  to  pro- 
duce in  the  grey  state,  and  very  many 
others  sold  at  retail  the  same  cloths 
at  121^  cents  per  yard.  It  is  believed 
that  the  development  in  silk  and  cot- 
ton has  made  certain  converters  much 
more  conservative  than  they  have  pre- 
viously been.  Italian  silk  is  ordinarily 
used  In  making  cloth  of  this  charac- 
ter, and  It  Is  seldom  finer  than  18-20 
and  usually  coarser  than  this  number, 


cloth  construction.  The  main  differ- 
ence can  be  stated  as  being  one  of 
weaving  and  twists  in  the  yarn,  a  ser- 
pentine crepe  is  made  from  filling 
yarn  of  one  direction  of  twist,  and 
is  woven  on  a  regular  loom,  while  a 
crepe  de  chine  is  made  with  yarn  of 
two  twists  and  is  woven  on  a  box 
loom.  Sometimes  two  picks  of  one 
twist  are  placed  in  the  cloth  and  then 
two  picks  of  the  reverse  twist  are 
woven,  and  sometimes  other  arrange- 
ments are  made. 

THE  DIFFERENCE 

In  the  finished  cloths  is  expressed  by 


278 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


saying  that  the  crepe  de  chine  has 
a  more  or  less  regular  crepy  look, 
while  the  serpentine  crepe  has  quite 
a  heavy  wavy  appearance.  This  crepy 
or  wavy  appearance  is  obtained 
through  the  use  of  hard  twist  filling 
in  both  instances.  Sometimes  single 
yarns  are  used  and  in  other  cases 
yarn  of  two-ply  character  is  employed. 

The  actual  filling  count  is  rather 
low,  but  is  high  enough  to  prevent 
bad  slipping.  Two  methods  are  em- 
ployed in  making  hard  twist  two-ply 
yarn  for  use  in  these  cloths.  In  one 
process  the  twisting  is  done  on  a 
spinning  frame  onto  enameled  bob- 
bins, and  all  that  is  necessary  to  in- 
sure satisfactory  weaving  is  to  steam 
the  bobbins.  This  is  naturally  the 
cheapest  method,  but  when  yarn  is 
twisted  on  a  regular  twister,  the  bob- 
bins are  not  usable  in  a  shuttle,  so 
the  yarn  much  be  spooled,  ball  warped, 
sized,  and  quilled  before  it  can  be 
used  in  weaving.  When  the  yarn  is 
sized  in  the  second  process,  and  this 
must  be  done  to  stop  kinks  in  the 
yarn,  it  is  not  necessary  to  steam  to 
set  the  twist. 

The  single  hard  twist  yarn  is,  of 
course,  handled  by  the  first  method. 
The  standard  of  twist  used  in  making 
these  yarns  will  vary  greatly,  due  to 
different  conditions  of  making  and 
somewhat  to  the  cotton  used.  A 
smooth  long  cotton 

WILL  REQUIRE  LESS  TWIST 

than  shorter  fibres,  and  the  standard 
will  usually  vary  from  6  to  8,  but  in- 
stances have  been  noted  where  as 
high  a  standard  as  10  was  used. 
Most  yarns  have  standards  of  from 
7  to  714.  What  this  hard  twist  does 
can  be  readily  noted  when  the  grey 
cloth  width  and  the  finished  width 
are  compared.  The  original  width  is 
about  32  inches,  while  the  fabric  fin- 
ished is  24  inches.  The  hard  twisted 
yarn  v.'ill  shrink  readily  when  im- 
mersed in  hot  water,  and  this  accounts 
for  the  appearance  when  sold  and  in- 
dicates how  important  the  factor  of 
yarn  twist  is  in  such  cloths. 

If  a  standard  f  6  acts  satisfactorily, 
it  is  a  deliberate  waptp  to  ns'^  a  hip'h- 
er  standard,  for  It  increases  the  cost 
of  production  quite  rapidly,  because 
the  la'-ppr  the    amount    of    twist  the 


smaller  the  production.  Ordinarily, 
the  labor  cost  of  such  yarn  is  about 
twice  as  high  as  it  is  on  regular  warp 
yarn.  Some  mills  merely  make  the 
crepe  through  hot  water  or  steam, 
but  there  are  certain  other  finishers 
v>'ho  use  a  mercerizing  process  to  ob- 
tain the  same  results.  There  is  an 
added  attractiveness  through  mercer- 
izing, but  it  is  sometimes  a  question 
of  getting  the  cloth  as  cheaply  as 
possible,  so  this  is  not  done,  and  It 
has  also  been  true  that  some  finishers 
or  converters  did  not  know  the  proc- 
ess was  possible  and  never  asked  to 
have  it  applied. 

Thes  fabrics  are  made  with  jac- 
quard  patterns  and  also  with  dobby 
figures,  but  by  far  the 

LARGEST  PORTION  IS  MADE 
with  plain  weaves.  Of  late,  there  has 
been  a  tendency  to  use  heavy  silk 
stripes  for  decorations,  but  it  adds  to 
the  cost,  and  for  this  reason,  is  objec- 
tionable. Similar  lines  of  fabrics  have 
been  sold  for  scarfings  and  have  had 
a  satisfactory  distribution.  There  Is 
one  thing  which  has  been  true  until 
recently  regarding  the  making  and 
selling  of  novelty  silk  and  cotton  fab- 
rics, and  this  is  that  profits  have  in- 
variably been  large. 

Up  to  a  few  yea'-s  ago  there  were 
onlv  a  few  mills  which  cared  to  use 
such  material,  net  alone  because  they 
thouE'ht  its  use  would  create  more  or 
less  trouble,  but  f>lso  because  the  mak- 
ing of  such  cloths  upsets  the  mill 
organizaMon.  For  a  fancy  mill  to 
weave  such  fabrics  It  is  necessary  to 
keen  sninnirg  frames  idle  which  have 
prPviou<5lv  made  wa^n  yarn,  and  if 
s'lk  filMne  be  used,  filllner  frames  are 
idle.  NatuT-aHv,  the  carrving  charges 
are  as  la''ee  as  If  they  were  In  oner- 
atlon.  and  this  mak^s  a  high  profit 
Impera.tive.  if  the  making  be  success- 
ful      fIori-'Pt,i'^"'^R    o    mill    c'^n    nno»-qtP    Us 

excess  of  sn Inning  on  yarn  for  sale 
purnoses.  hut  inasmuch  as  no  reerular 
cu«;tom  is  h^ld.  prices  for  yarn  under 
such  conrlitions  are  not  so  high  as 
th<=v  mi°'ht  he. 

Cor^^ain  instances  a^p  known  where 
a  min  sold  va^n  at  a  hierh  price  for  a 
year  nr  niorp,  and  to  keen 

THE  WEAVING  IN  OPERATION, 
accepted  orders  for  silk  novelties  ftt 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


279 


a  price  slightly  above  cost.     Without  Naturally,  when  orders  are  not  in 

doubt,  the  accepting  of  orders   which  large  volume,  a  seller  must  needs  ac- 

continualiy   keeps   a  novelty    mill    in  c-pt  the  ones  which  are  offered,  but 

balance  is  one  of  the  most  important,  much  might  be  done 

!L°ls"iresr''T.ie\°S  TZefs  TO  IMPROVE  THE  SITUATION 

which  upsets  the  organization  is  one  when  selling  conditions  are  normal, 
of  the  fruitful  sources  of  lack  of  It  will  be  noted  that  this  fabric  is 
profits  and  more  money  can  be  lost  rather  light  in  weight,  as  most  of 
in  this  manner  than  can  be  made  up  such  lines  are,  and  also  that  the  cot- 
L-.rough  economical  operation.  The  ton  forms  over  75  per  cent  of  the  total 
art  of  selling  cloth  has  been  responsi-  cloth  weight.  The  silk  is  woven  in  the 
ble  for  some  of  the  large  successes  in  gum  and  very  little  luster  is  seen  on 
fancy  cloth  making,  and  the  lack  of  it  the  cloth  until  it  is  finished.  In  finish- 
for  some  of  the  failures.  It  is  be-  ing,  some  of  the  silk  gum  is  removed, 
lieved  that  the  importance  of  this  the  amount  depending  on  various  con- 
ability  is  being  forgotten  by  certain  ditions.  To  obtain  the  weights  of  the 
mills  who  are  not  considering  the  silk  and  cotton  composing  the  cloth 
long  future.  and  the  yards  per  pound,  the  process 

The   sentiment  has   been   expressed  is  as  follows: 
many  times  of  late  that  anyone   can 

dispose  of  cloth    if  the   quality  is  right,         3.156   ends    -h     ISO.OOO    yard.s    =    .0175.      warp 

and  while  this  may  appear  true  to  an      ..J^^^/j^Vup  ^m'  ^^^^  operation. 

extent,     it    is     also     a    fact      that    some        .0175    -h    .93    =    .OISS,    warp   weight   per   yard 

sellers  know  nothing  regarding  manu-       ..°^.  J^°Y?"oow°'^.^*v,  .        ^  v^  ,<, 

,      .       .  .,         J    J.    -1       i-u  £  J        50  piclis  X  3314"  width  in  reed  X  36 

facturing  or  the   details   thereof,   and . — 2 . .  =  1.662.5 

through  this  reason  sell  fabrics  which  ,      ,  ^,,,    36"  ,    ^    ,    . 

,«;„r,t   !,„, T ^„    !,„+<.„-  ,,„„-^u     „„    «„_  yards   of   filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 

might  have  been  better  unsold,  as  far      1,662.5    -^    23,000     yards    =    .0723,     fining 

as    the    mill    was    concerned.      A    seller  weight   per  yard   of   woven   cloth. 

should  know  what  is  best  for  his  or-  "4^,^."^    '"^^^    ^    ■°"^'   ^°^^^   "^^'^^^   ''^'" 

ganization  to  make  and  strive  to  hold  1.0000  -h  .0911  =  10. 98  yards  per  pound, 
to  such  fabrics.     If  selling  conditions 

make  it  imperative  to  sell  other  Note  that  the  yards  per  pound  of  the 
cloths,  or  if  fashion  takes  a  different  60-2  hard  twist  is  not  25,200,  the  yard- 
trend,  other  orders  should  be  taken  age  ordinarily  seen,  but  23,000  yards 
to  continue  a  proper  balance  in  manu-  per  pound,  due  to  the  contraction  in 
facturing.  hard-twisting. 

PATTERN. 
4  4 

23/25   Italian  silk       —       3.02S       —     =      3.156   total    ends. 

16  16 

60/2    Am.   combed  hard   twist,    50  picks. 

46  reed;    3314"  width   in   reed,    32"  grev   width.    24"   finished   width. 
98    X    50   grey   count,    131    X    49   finished   count. 

YARN.S. 

Ijabor,         Twist- 
Cotton,     waste,  etc.        ing. 
60/2   Am.  combed   H.   T..   1%"  sta. ;    12  hank  dou.  rov.,      24c.  16  Vic.  8c.  =   $  .48% 

23/25  Italian  silk,   180,000  yards  per  lb.     Ready  on  beams,  r=      4.35 

COST. 

3.156  ends   23/25   Italian   silk +   7%   take-up   =   .0188    ®    $4.35      =    $  .0818 

50   nicks   60/2    Am.    combed   hard  twist =   .0723    ©   .48 'A      =        .0351 

Weaving     .0142 

Expenses     .0124 

$   .1435 
Selling     .0029 

Mill    cost    (about) $  .1464 

Price    to    converter    (about) $  .1550 

Finishing,    dyeing,    etc .0250 

Converter's    selling    price .2000 

Jobber's  selling  price .2500 

Retail    selling   price    (usual) .SBOO 

Retail   sale  price   (actual) .MOO 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  QL088AHT 


ARTIFICIAL  SILK  STRIPE 
OVERDRESS 

This  fabric  is  one  which  illustrates 
a  number  of  ideas  which  are  of  inter- 
est to-day,  not  only  in  regard  to  the 
cloth  construction  used,  but  also  in 
connection  with  its  being  an  imported 
material.  In  the  first  place,  it  can 
be  said  that  there  should  be  more  of 
the  smaller  mills  producing  fabrics  of 


There  Is  a  great  opportunity  for 
small,  well-fitted  mills  to  produce  just 
such  cloths  as  we  are  considering,  a 
field  where  competition  is  not  so  keen 
and  where  profits  are  comparatively 
large.  A  large  mill  cannot  produce 
such  fabrics  in  small  enough  quan- 
tity and  if  they  could,  the  detail  of 
so  many  orders  would  probably  tie  up 
a  mill.  A  man  of  ability  in  a  small 
plant  can  develop  more  or  less  origi- 
nality in  cloths,  building  up  a  trade 
which  want  quality  fabrics,  and  are 
willing  to  pay  for  them.  There  is  a 
legitimate  place  in  manufacturing  for 


Artificial  Silk  Stripe  Overdress. 


this  character,  or  similar  ones  which 
are  in  style,  and  which  show  a  good 
profit,  although  the  orders  are  small. 
A  good  many  mills,  probably  most  of 
the  small  domestic  ones,  trail  the 
large  operatives,  making  similar  pat- 
terns and  competing,  or  attempting  to, 
on  prices.  Of  course,  many  times  small 
mills  sell  their  product  in  different 
channels  and  in  smaller  amounts, 
thereby  receiving  a 

SOMEWHAT   HIGHER  PRICE, 

and  this  is  the  only  reason  that  they 
can  continue  in  operation  and  make 
any  money. 


a  small  mill,  but  it  is  not  in  attempt- 
ing to  produce  styles  which  large 
plants  are  running,  but  rather  in  the 
making  of  exclusive  fabrics  and  for 
an  exclusive  trade. 

Comparatively  few  of  such  fabrics 
are  produced  in  domestic  mills,  but  if 
the  right  methods  were  pursued,  it  is 
very  likely  that  the  3  per  cent  of 
fabrics  which  are  imported  of  the 
total  domestic  consumption  would 
then  be  produced  in  domestic  plants 
A  large  proportion  of  the  cloth  which 
is  imported  is  not  cloth  which  enters 
actively  into  domestic  competition; 
that   Is,    It   fills    a   need    which   mills 


▲  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


281 


here  either  can*ot  or  do  not  supply. 
If  mills  were  inclined  to  develop  this 
trade,  there  would  be  practically  none 
imported,  for  duties  are  so  greatly  in 
excess  of  necessity  that  foreign  fab- 
rics absolutely  could  not  be  sold  iu 
competition. 

Probably  the  duty  assessed  on  this 
cloth  is  as  great  or  greater  than  the 
entire  labor  cost  of  producing,  at 
least,  in  any  sized  quantities  in  do- 
mestic mills,  and  because  of  the  yarns 
used  and  cloth  construction,  labo)- 
cnarges  form  a  large  portion  of 

THE  TOTAL  COST 
of  production.  Naturally,  a  man  oper- 
ating a  small  mill  and  making  ex- 
clusive fabrics  needs  to  be  familiar 
with  the  various  mill  processes  and 
know  how  to  obtain  results  in  the 
best  and  most  economical  manner, 
and  not  only  this,  but  he  must  be 
familiar  with  the  selling  end  of  the 
business  and  the  styles  which  are 
likely  to  be  used  by  an  exclusive 
trade.  It  is  admitted  that  men  who 
could  operate  such  a  business  are 
rather  scarce,  and  the  ones  who  are 
able  are  about  all  employed  in  larger 
business.  In  other  words,  there  are  not 
enough  capable  men  for  the  good  of 
the  textile  trade  to-day,  but  the  num- 
bers of  trained  men  are  increasing, 
and  sooner  or  later,  more  of  the  cloths 
which  are  now  imported  will  be  pro- 
duced. The  need  for  trained  oper- 
atives is  great,  but  the  need  for  cap- 
able, trained  and  original  managers 
is  greater,  and  until  experience  and 
training  produce  a  supply  of  such 
men,  foreign  cloths  will  continue  to 
be  imported,  even  with  a  duty  twice 
as  high   as  it  is  at  present. 

Take  the  cloth  we  are  considering 
and  note  the  ideas  used.  It  has,  in 
the  first  place,  the  general  appearance 
of  voile  cloths,  which  are  compara- 
tively good  sellers  to-day,  thereby 
bringing  the  highest  rate  of  profit.  It 
is  made  in  such  a  manner  that  very 
little  of  the  high-priced  material 
which  it  contains  is  needed  in  pro- 
ducing, and  it  comprises  a  small 
amount  of  artificial  silk,  which  gives 
It   an   exclusive  appearance. 

Many  similar  fabrics,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Bilk  stripes,  are  made 


in  domestic  mills,  but  It  is  doubted 
whether  they  return  the  profits  which 
this   cloth  would.     Possibly, 

DOMESTIC    FABRICS 

are  not  made  of  quite  so  fine  yarn, 
but  for  consumers  little  difference 
could  be  noted.  It  is  the  right  intro- 
duction of  silk,  the  right  spacing  of 
stripes,  the  difference  from  other  fab 
rics  which  makes  ai  e.xclusive  ma- 
terial or  style,  and  contrary  to  the 
idea  of  most  people,  both  buyers  and 
sellers,  such  difference  consists  more 
of  small  details  than  it  does  of  any 
great  radical  difference.  We  have 
seen  designs  produced  for  a  certain 
construction  which  were  absolutely 
worthless,  and  we  have  seen  the  same 
designs  produced  on  the  same  cloth 
construction  which  compelled  admira- 
tion and  produced  sales. 

Another  illustration  of  the  same  re- 
sults follows:  On  a  certain  shirting 
fabric  much  trouble  resulted  because 
of  cloth  quality  and  strength.  Instead 
of  using  better  and  longer  cotton,  cir- 
cumstances compelled  the  attempt  to 

USE  SHORTER  STOCK, 

but  along  with  this  shorter  stock  was 
the  use  of  a  better  arrangement  of 
stripes  in  the  pattern.  Entirely  dif- 
ferent results  were  produced,  and  the 
improvement  in  cloth  appearance  was 
noticeable,  the  buyers  being  much 
pleased,  although  they  did  not  know 
that  the  cloth  was  actually  costing 
one-fourth  of  a  cent  less  per  yard  to 
make  and  would  not  break  so  high  as 
before.  Probably  the  poor  original  ap- 
pearance made  buyers  critical  of  all 
the  items  of  interest  in  the  cloth, 
while  the  better  arrangement  over- 
balanced any  minor  defects. 

In  a  cloth  such  as  the  one  consid- 
ered it  is  necessary  to  have 

A  LENO  EDGE 

along  each  stripe,  so  as  to  keep  the 
stripes  in  their  correct  positions,  and 
to  give  a  clear  open  space  between. 
Because  of  the  crossing  which  takes 
place  on  every  pick,  it  is  impossible  to 
introduce  but  a  comparatively  few 
picks  into  the  cloth.  Just  the  right 
number  of  picks  to  use  for  such  a  fab- 


282 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ric  as  this  can  only  be  determined  by 
experimentation.  Too  many  picks 
will  cause  trouble  in  weaving,  and  the 
use  of  too  few  will  allow  much  slip- 
ping, spoiling  the  general  effect. 
When  more  picks  are  desired,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  the  leno  ends  work 
so  that  two  picks  are  in  a  shed  to- 
gether, but  this  makes  an  uneven 
cloth,  and  while  this  method  can  be 
used  on  some  fabrics,  it  would  not  be 
satisfactory  on  a  cloth  similar  to  sam- 


ordinary    dobby    pattern    were    being 
made,  and  usually  a  weaver  will  oper 
ate  only  one  loom. 

This  naturally  makes  the 

•   COST    OF    WEAVING 

excessive,  nearly  one-third  of  the  cost 
of  production,  and  any  economies 
which  can  be  made  so  that  a  larger 
percentage  of  production  is  obtained 
are  well  worth  while.  When  a  net 
profit  of  one  cent  per  yard  on  a  fab- 


PATTERN. 


70/2  Sea  Island  combed  mercerized.., 
120/2  Sea  Island  combed  mercerized.., 
100  denier  artificial   silk 


2  2 

—  4  4  4  4        — 

1  li 

1  4  114  1 

2 

2 


16X 
100/2  Sea  Island  combed   mercerized.      44    picks. 
50  reed;   42"   width   in   reed,    39 M:"   finished   width. 
49    X    44   over  all   finished   count. 


102X 


16X 


896 
636 
40S 


1,940 


70/2  Sea  Island  combed,  1%"  sta. ;  14  hank  dou.  rov., 
100/2  Sea  Island  combed,  1%"  sta. ;  20  hank  dou.  rov., 
120/2  Sea  Island  combed,  1%"  sta. ;  24  hank  dou.  rov., 
100  denier  artificial  silk,    40,000  yards  per  lb., 


Cotton. 
2Sc. 
30c. 
32c. 


Labor,  waste, 

twisting, 

mercerizing,  etc. 

44  Vic 

65c. 

80c. 


$   .72% 

.95 

1.12 

2.75 


COST. 

824    ends   70/2   combed +    15%   take-up   =   .0329    @    ?  .72%      =   $  .0239 

72    ends    70/2    combed +      4%    take-up   =   .0026    iv        .72%      =  .0019 

636  ends  120/2    combed +      i%   take-up   =   .0131    @      1.12  =  .0147 

408   ends   100   denier  artificial   silk -f-      2%   take-up   =   .0104    @      2.75  =  .0286 

44    picks   100/2   combed ==   .0440    @        .95  =  .0418 

W^eaving    .0BZ5 

Expenses     .0156 

$  .1890 

Finishing,    etc .0200 

$  .2090 

Selling    .0075 


Retail   price,   79c.   per  yard. 

Retail  purchasing  price  about  50c.   per  yard. 

English   mill  price  probably  less  than  30c.   per  yard. 

Import  duty  about  13c. 

Yards    per    pound,    9.71. 


$  .2165 


pie.  In  making  a  fabric  such  as  this 
one,  it  is  likely  that  a  50-reed  was 
used,  with  four  ends  for  each  stripe 
and  six  dents  for  each  open  space. 
If  a  50-reed  was  too  fine  to  allow 
satisfactory  weaving,  a  25-reed  could 
be  used  with  two  dents  for  each  stripo 
and  three  dents  for  each  open  space, 
but  probably  this  is  not  necessary. 
Because  of  the  nature  of  the  cloth,  the 
loom  speed  is  not  so  high  as   if  an 


ric  of  this  nature  will  return  a  net 
profit  of  about  $100  per  loom  per  year 
with  a  comparatively  low  weaving 
production,  it  can  be  seen  that  care 
should  result  in  a  good  profit,  espe- 
cially when  such  large  opportunities 
are  offered.  It  is  a  very  good  plan 
when  such  fabrics  as  thesa  are  being 
made  to  take  the  very  best  and  most 
reliable  weavers  obtainable  and  put 
on  looms  producing  this  cloth,  paying 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SM 


them    a    good    salary    rather    than    a 
price    per    piece. 

SMALL  NUMBER  OF  SECONDS. 

Under  such  an  arrangement  the  best 
quality  of  cloth  will  be  made,  and 
production  will  be  at  the  highest 
point,  a  small  loss  through  seconds 
being  noted.  The  leno  weave  used  is 
the  ordinary  gauge  one,  with  the 
crossing  thread  changing  every  pick, 
and  as  this  has  been  taken  up  in  de- 
tail at  other  times  no  lurther  ex- 
planation is  needed.  One  other  fea- 
ture of  this  cloth  is  the  size  and  kind 
of  yarn  used.  Few  mills  in  the  do- 
mestic market  would  make  thre' 
kinds  of  two-ply  yarn  when  making 
such  a  fabric.  In  the  cotton  staple 
used  for  the  various  sizes  we  have 
used  a  staple  longer  than  the  yarn 
sizes  require,  unless  they  are  to  be 
mercerized;  that  is,  70-1  or  70-2  ordi- 
narily would  be  made  of  li-inch  cot- 
ton, or  even  less.  Only  for  special 
purposes  would  cotton  longer  than 
this  be  used  for  the  above  yarn  size. 
Good  yarn  is  very  essential  for  the 
making  of  a  fabric  in  which  the  yarn 
shows  so  clearly,  and  yarns  of  this 
character  are  usually  gassed.  This 
singes  off  the  f.bres  which  protrude 
giving   a   round,    rod-like   appearance. 

Through  the  use  of 

LONGER   STAPLE   COTTON 

the  twist  per  inch  can  be  reduced 
somewhat  over  the  ordinary  amount, 
thus  giving  better  results  when  the 
yarn  is  mercerized.  Yarn  improve 
ment  has  been  steady  for  the  past 
five  years  in  domestic  mills,  this  be- 
ing brought  about  through  necessity 
We  have  seen  single-yarn  fabricr 
made  in  doxestic  mills  somewhat 
similar  to  sam.ple,  and  which  com- 
pared very  favorably  indeed  wher 
price  was  considered.  Then  this  cloth 
has  used  artificial  silk  for  the  stripes, 
which  largely  give  it  its  char- 
acter. No  objection  of  any  magnitude 
can  be  offered  when  this  material  ir 
used  in  such  a  manner.  The  cotton 
yarn  gives  all  the  strength  necessary 
and  will  hold  the  artificial  silk  even 
when    soaked    continually     in     water 


The  luster  is  one  of  the  large  reasona 
why  the  cloth  is  attractive. 

WEAVING  MORE  DIFFICULT. 

Possibly  one  reason  why  mills  here 
have  not  used  it  is  because  of  its  rub- 
bing and  breaking  in  weaving.  Of 
course,  it  is  more  satisfactory  when 
used  in  coarse  count  cloth,  but  futur' 
use  will  surely  be  large.  Anything 
which  causes  a  lot  of  trouble  or  which 
makes  loom  production  small  is  avoid- 
ed by  domestic  mills.  The  large  uso 
which  is  taking  place  in  foreign  mills 
is  clearly  illustrated  in  the  importa- 
tion of  voile  cloths. 

S24    ends    -^    (70/2    X    840)    =    .0280,    weight 

of    70/2    leno    yarn    without    take-up. 
15%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0280    -f-    .85    =    .032a,    total    weight    of   70/2 

leno   yarn. 
72  ends   --    (70/2    X    840)    =  .0024,   weight  of 

70/2    selvage    yarn    without    take-up. 
4  7o    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0024   -=-   .96    =   .0026,   weight  of  70/2   selvage 

yarn. 
636    ends    -f-    (120/2    X    840)    =    .0126,    weight 

of  120/2   yarn   without  take-up. 
4%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0126    -r-   .96    =    .0131,    total    weight   of    120/2 

yarn. 
40S  ends  ^   40,000  yards  silk  =  .0102,  weight 

of    artificial    silk    without    take-up. 
2%    take-up    in    weaving. 

.0102    H-    .98    =    .0104,    total    weight    of    arti- 
ficial   silk. 
44  picks  X  42"  reed  width  X  36" 

— =       1.848 

36" 

yards   of  filling  yarn   per  yard   of   cloth. 
1,848    H-    (100/2    X    840)    =    .0440,    weight   of 

100/2     filling. 
.0329    4-    .0026    -f-    .0131    -f    .0140   +    .0440    = 

.1030,    total    weight   per  yard. 
1.0000    -i-   .1030    =    9.71   yards   per   pound. 


♦  »  » 


FAST  COLOR,  MERCERIZED 
JACQUARD  SHIRTING 

During  the  past  few  years  there  has 
appeared  on  the  market  various  new 
fabrics  which  have  been  made  pos- 
sible through  some  improvement  of 
manufacturing  or  finishing.  This  cloth 
is  one  of  an  imported  line,  and  the 
reason  we  have  presented  it  is  as  much 
because  of  the  price  as  because  of  its 
novel  features.  It  would  seem  as  if 
there  was  a  large  enough  demand  for 
exclusive  styles  to  make  it  possible 
for  dom.estic  mills  to  produce  and  sell 
them    and    still   have   no    friction    be- 


281 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tween  the  various  buyers  through  hav- 
ing the   same   styles. 

It  is  possible  to  purchase  as  small 
an  amount 

AS  250  PIECES 
of  such  a  style  as  the  one  considered 
and  if  a  trip  through  some  of  the  ex- 
clusive stores  shows  anything  it  is 
that  many  lines  might  be  purchased 
with  less  chance  of  overlapping  on 
styles  than  is  now  noted  from  domes- 
tic mills.  In  our  cost  we  have  given 
high  ranges  of  profit,  and  it  is  very 


the  slack  times  which  are  customary 
every  few  years?  The  old  idea  which 
was  held  in  past  years  that  domestic 
cloth   was 

NOT  SO  GOOD  AS  IMPORTED 
material  has  been  proven  time  and 
again  to  be  false  when  the  actual  facts 
have  been  obtained,  and  in  this  indi- 
vidual instance  it  can  be  said  that 
any  one  of  a  dozen  mills  in  the  do 
mestic  market  could  and  would  pro- 
duce a  cloth  as  good  as  that  analyzed, 
and  various   finishing  plants  are   em- 


Fast      Color,       Mercerized      Jacquara     Shirting. 


likely  that  this  cloth  could  be  made 
in  the  exact  construction  so  as  to  be 
sold  at  retail  for  35  or  39  cents  in- 
stead of  the  45  cents  which  we  havf 
given.  The  retail  price  actually  is  55 
cents,  and  shows  how  much  the  con- 
sumer pays  extra  just  because  the 
pattern  is  exclusive.  Leaving  out  the 
question  of  price  to  consumer  entire- 
ly, is  it  not  worth  while  to  make  it 
possible  for  domestic  mills  to  producr 
the  material  which  is  purchased 
abroad? 

If  a  large  portion  of  the  cloth  now 
purchased  of  foreign  countries  was 
made  in  domestic  mills,  would  not  the 
added  orders  make  a  better  balance  in 
th«  operation  and  eliminate  some  of 


inently  able  to   finish  such   materials 
of  domestic  manufacture. 

The  facts  are  that  there  are  many 
retail  buyers  who  go  abroad  and  pur- 
chase cloth  which  could  be  obtained 
in  the  domestic  market,  let  alone  men- 
tioning the  savings  which  might  be 
effected  in  price.  Of  course,  there  are 
some  buyers  who  are  capable  men  and 
understand  cloth  and  something  re- 
garding its  manufacture  and  construc- 
tion, but  many  of  them  invariably  get 
stuck  and  the  only  thing  which  saves 
the  situation  is  the  fact  that  excessive 
profits  are  possible.  Probably  the  one 
large  reason  why  some  of  the  big  re- 
tailers, who  do  converting  for  them- 
selves, started  into  the  business  was 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


28B 


because  they  could  produce  styles 
whicli  equalled  or  surpassed  many  im- 
ported lines  and  at  a  large  saving  in 
price.  Many  of  such  styles  were  sold 
as  imported  lines,  but  nevertheless 
they  helped  domestic  mills,  for  it 
acted  as  an  incentive  toward  the  mak- 
ing of  newer  and  better  cloths. 
Without  any  question  probably  75  per 
cent  of  the  fancy  cotton  cloth  now 
imported  could  be  made  so  as  to  be 
sold  at  a  lower  price  to  consumers  in 
the  domestic  mills. 

MORE    CO-OPERATION. 

A  little  more  co-operation  between 
buyers  and  sellers  in  the  domestic 
market  and  more  confidence  in  do- 
mestic styles  would  work  wonders  in 
this  direction.  Altogether  too  much 
dependence  has  been  placed  on  foreign 
styling,  as  contrasted  with  that  in  do- 
mestic mills,  and  while  each  country 
has  much  to  learn  from  the  otiiers, 
conditions  are  developing  which  make 
it  rather  impracticable  to  follow  styles 
too  closely.  Large  buyers  are  hurting 
manuiacturers  when  they  purchase 
fabrics  which  could  have  been  made 
in  domestic  mills.  If  there  were  but 
lew  instances  where  cloth  purchased 
in  foreign  markets  could  be  made  in 
domestic  mills,  little  attention  would 
be  necessary,  but  this  is  not  true,  and 
much  of  the  cloth  purchased  does  not 
need  to  be.  There  is,  of  course,  a 
certain  amount  of  blame  to  be  at- 
tached to  domestic  mills  or  converters 
for  not  going  more  strongly  after  this 
exclusive  trade,  but  in  grey  goods 
mills,  in  which  the  sample  and  sim- 
ilar cloths  are  produced,  the  patterns 
and  constructions  are  developed  by 
buyers,  and  mills  merely  produce  what 
buyers  ask  for.  The  same  amount 
of  zeal  used  among  domestic  sellers, 
which  some  buyers  are  accustomed 
to  use  in  foreign  markets,  would  iiake 
much  more  possible  in  the  making  of 
novelty   fabrics. 

Various  interesting  details  are  nec- 
essary in  the  production  of  a  labric  of 
this  character.  In  the  first  place, 
three  beams  are  necessary  to  produce 
the  cloth  satisfactorily.  One  of  these 
beams  contains  the  ground  yarn,  a 
second  the  colored  yarn,  which  takes 


up  less  in  weaving,  while  the  third 
carries  the  yarn  which  composes  the 
cords.  The  fabric  is  woven  in  the  grey 
state  excepting  the  yam  which  com- 
poses the  colored  stripes,  which  are 
of  color  fast  to  the  bleaching  process. 
In  the  analysis,  we  noted  the  fact  that 
the  cloth  was  woven  on  a  600-jac- 
quard  loom,  and  with  three  repeats 
of  the  pattern  to  every  repeat  of  the 
machine  tie-up.  Usually,  in  making  up 
patterns  of  this  character,  the  mill 

HAS   TO   VARY   THE   DESIGN 

to  suit  the  tie-up  of  its  looms;  that 
is,  if  a  pattern  was  drawn  by  a  buy- 
er to  be,  say,  2  1-3  inches  wide,  and 
a  mill  contained  looms  with  a  5-inch 
tie-up,  it  would  be  necessary  to  use 
two  repeats  in  the  machine,  giving  a 
width  in  the  reed  of  about  2i/^  inches, 
or  if  the  pattern  was  drawn  l^/^  Inches 
wide,  it  would  be  necessary  to  use 
three  repeats,  giving  a  reed  width  of 
1  2-3  inches,  instead  of  l^/^  inches; 
also,  if  a  pattern  was  drawn  4  inches 
wide  it  would  be  necessary  to  readjust 
it,  making  5  inches  the  reed  width. 
Many  600-jacquard  looms  are  tied  up 
120  hooks  per  inch,  giving  a  reed 
width  of  5  inches,  and  unquestionably 
this  pattern  is  made  on  such  a  ma- 
chine. 

600    machine    -f-    120    hooks    or    threads    per 
inch   =   5  reed  width. 

There  are  exactly  600  threads  used 
in  the  machine  or  total  pattern  repeat 
and,  therefore,  no  hooks  are  cast  out. 
A  fault  which  is  present  in  the  pattern 
as  woven,  although  one  which  few 
consun:ers  would  detect,  is  the  fact 
that  there  are  silk  threads  of  ground 
yarn 

BETWEEN    COLOR   AND   CORD 

on  one  side  of  the  stripe,  while  there 
are  8  ground  threads  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stripe.  This  gives  a  slight- 
ly unbalanced  pattern,  but  it  was  evi- 
dently a  mistake  of  the  designer  rath- 
er than  the  weaver,  for  it  appears  reg- 
ularly throughout  the  cloth  width. 
This  fabric  is  a  much  higher  count 
cloth  than  is  ordinarily  seen  in  shirt- 
ing lines,  and  the  yarns  are  finer  than 
many   use,   but  similar    fabrics    with 


28« 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


even  finer  yarns  are  made  in  quanti- 
ties  in   domestic  mills. 

One  feature  of  the  cloth  is  that  it 
has  filling  of  soft  twist  yarn,  so  as  to 
give  a  better  result  when  finished.  The 
use  of  soft  twist  yarn  aids,  because 
the  cotton  fibres  lie  more  nearly  par- 
allel, and  when  the  fabric  is  mercer- 
ized, these  fibres  reflect  the  light  bet- 
ter, giving  a  higher  luster.  In  making 
soft  twist  filling  it  is  customary  to  use 
a  longer  staple  than  if  ordinary  yarn 


is  usually  about  3  for  ring  frames, 
but  cases  have  been  known  where  the 
standard  was  as  low  as  214  on  rather 
coarse  yarn  and  with  especially  long 
cotton,  although  this  is  seldom  seen 
The  standards  for  mule  twist  ar< 
somewhat  less  than  for  ring  frames, 
but  probably  2%  to  3  represents  the 
majority.  The  amount  of  twist  will 
depend  a  whole  lot  on  the  cotton  be- 
ing used  and  the  kind  of  cloth  being 
made. 


60/1    Am.    combed    grey J48| 

60/1    Am.    combed    colored 

40/2    Am.    combed    grey 1     | 


60/1  Am.  combed  filUng,   soft  twist,   116   picks. 

60  reed,    351/3"  width   in   reed,    32%"   grey   width,    32"   fmi.shed   width. 
128    X    116  grey  count,   134    X    113  finished  count. 


I      I      = 


3,742 
336 
210 


KO/1  Am.  comb,  warp,  1%"  sta. ;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 

60/1   Am.   comb,   col.,  1%"  sta. ;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 

40/2  Am.  comb,   warp,  l%"sta. ;     8  hank  dou.  rov., 

60/1   Am.  comb,   filling,  l%"sta.;  14  hank  dou.  rov.. 


Cot-  Labor,     Twist- 
ton,  waste,  etc.     ing.     Dyeing. 
24c.  leVzC                                    =  40%c. 
24c.  16y2C.                        16c.      =  56%c. 
20c.  10%c.           2c.                       =  32%c. 
24c.  15%c.                                      =  39%c. 


COST. 

3.742  ends    60/1   Am.  combed -|-    107o    take-up   =   .0824    @    40%c.      =  $  .0334 

336  ends    60/1  Am.  combed +      8%    take-up   =    .0073    @    56i/4c.      =  .0041 

210  ends    40/2  Am.   combed -f      2%    take-up   =   .0128    @    32%c.      =  .0041 

116  picks  60/1   Am.  combed =   .0813    @    39%c.      =  .0323 

Weaving .0392 

]i;xpenses     .0376 

$  .1507 
Selling      .0030 

Mill    cost $.1537 

Mill   selling   price    (abouti $  .1750 

Finishing,    mercerizing,    etc .0150 

$  .1900 

Converter's    selling   price    $   .2500 

Jobber's    selling    price    .3000 

Retailer's   selling   price    .4500 

Yards   per  pound,    5.44   grey. 

Made  on  a  600-jacquard  loom,   3  repeats  per  section. 


were  being  made,  for  inasmuch  as 
there  is  a  smaller  amount  of  twist  a 
longer  length  of  fibre  is  necessary  to 
give  sufficient  strength  to  weave  or 
to  mercerize.  Take  the  cloth  we  ar' 
considering  and 

IT   WILL    BE    NOTED 

that  li-inch  staple  was  used  for  warp 
and  filling.  If  this  filling  were  no-f 
made  soft  twist  it  is  very  likely  that 
cotton  not  over  IV^  inches  would  havr 
been  used.  The  standard  of  twist  used 


Very  often  designs  are  planned  so 
that  the  cloth  must  be  made  to  one 
side  of  the  jacquard  tie-up,  or,  in  other 
words, 

THERE    IS    A    WIDER    SPACE 

between  the  shuttle  box  and  cloth  on 
one  side  than  there  is  on  the  other. 
Where  there  are  a  number  of  pattern 
repeats  in  each  600  hooks  little  trouble 
will  result,  because  a  wide  variation 
cannot  occur,  but  with  only  one  stripe 
to  a   pattern,    or    rather    to   the    600 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


287 


hooks,  sometimes  bad  weaving  will 
result  and  olten  the  design  has  to  bs 
repainted  To  give  the  best  place  in 
the  tie-up  to  weave  this  fabric  the 
problem  would  be  as  follows:  There 
are  4,192  ends  in  the  warp,  exclud- 
ing the  selvages,  which  are  worked 
separately,  and  as  most  jacquards  of 
this  kind  are  tied  up  40  inches  wide, 
we  will  assume  that  such  was  the 
case    with    this    cloth. 

120  ends  per  inch    X    40"   =   4,800,   total  har- 
ness   in    tie-up. 
4,800  —  4,192   =   60S,   total  harness  not  used. 
608    -^    2    =    304,   each   side  not   used. 

As  600  machines  have  12  hooks  in  a 
row,  we  have 

304    -T-    12   =    25    rows    +    4   hooks. 

In  other  words,  to  make  the  cloth 
in  the  center  of  the  tie-up  we  would 
not  start  to  draw  in  warp  yarn  until 
the  5th  hook  on  row  26  in  the  ma- 
chine in  section  No.  1  of  the  jacquard 
tie-up,  and  when  we  had  drawn  in  all 
the  ends  we  would  find  that  the  last 
thread  would  be  drawn  on  the  8th 
hook  in  row  25  in  section  No.  8.  As 
one  section  takes  5  inches,  the  total 
width,  or  40  inches,  would  give  8  sec- 
tions. 

Of  course,  this  layout  is  rather  sim- 
ple,   but    when    patterns    are 

MORE   COMPLICATED 

and  there  is  a  large  and  varying  cast 
out  the  problem  is  not  so  easy,  but  if 
made  out  correctly  at  first  no  subse- 
quent changes,  are  necessary.  It 
should  be  as  common  a  practice  to 
balance  jacquard  patterns  as  it  is 
dobbies,  but,  unfortunately,  it  is  not, 
and  much  improvement  might  be 
made  even  in  many  of  the  dobby  pat- 
terns which  are  sold. 

Mills  making  fabrics  of  this  char- 
acter seldom  dye  their  yarn,  for  one 
reason  that  they  could  not  do  it  as 
successfully  as  those  now  doing  it,  for 
another  reason  each  contains  rather 
small  quantities,  making  a  small 
amount  necessary,  and  as  the  mills 
n.ake  a  large  proportion  of  grey  cloth, 
the  expense  would  be  high,  probably 
higher  than  the  present  cost,  and  with 
no  outlay  for  a  dyehouse  to  increase 
the  capita]   necessary.     There    is    no 


question,  however,  but  that  many  new 
lines  will  be  produced. 
One  year  ago  was 

PROBABLY    THE    EARLIEST 

any  of  these  lines  were  sold  by  re- 
tailers in  quantities,  and  most  of  the 
fabrics  offered  were  lots  left  from  va- 
rious shirt  makers,  and  patterns  were 
not  entirely  suitable,  but  there  is  a 
future  in  this  direction.  The  weights 
of  the  yarns  and  cloth  are  obtained 
as  follows: 

3,742   ends    -i-    (60/1    X    840)    =   .0742,    weight 

of    60/1    grey    without    take-up. 
10%     take-up    in    weaving. 
.0742    ^    9    =    .0824,    total    weight    per    yard 

of    60/1    grey    warp. 
336    ends    -h    (60/1    X    840)    =    .0067.    weight 

of    60/1    colored    without    take-up. 
8%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0067    -^    .92    =    .0073,    total   weight   per   yard 

of    6  0/1    colored    warp. 
210  ends   -^    (40/2    X    840)    =  .0125,   weight  of 

40/2    grey    without    take-up. 
2%    take-up   in    weaving. 
.0125    -^    .92    =    .0128,    total    weight  per   yard 

of    40/2    grey    warp. 
116  picks  X  35  Vs"  reed  width  X  36" 

- — ■ — —     =     4,099 

36" 

yards  of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
4,099    H-    (60/1    X    840)    =   .0813,    total   weight 

per    yard    of    60/1    filling. 
.0824     -I-     .0073     -1-     .0128     +     .0813     =    .1838. 

total    weight   per   yard. 
1.0000    -H    .1838    =    5.44   yards   per   lb.   grey. 


FLANNELETTE  NOVELTY 

One  of  the  most  interesting  and 
also  one  of  the  largest  used  fabrics 
is  that  class  ordinarily  known  as 
flannelette.  In  general  this  class 
could  be  said  to  contain  any  kind  of 
cloth  made  of  cotton  which  is  napped 
on  both  sides,  and  used  for  ordinary 
purposes,  such  as  kimonos,  night- 
gowns, coverings,  and  very  many  oth- 
er purposes.  The  present  season  has 
seen  a  large  demand  for  all  kinds 
of  cloth  of  this  character,  and  prices 
might  be  called  high,  and  profits 
should  be  exceedingly  satisfactory  to 
mills  producing  them.  Cloth  of  this 
character  is  made  in  white  and 
solid  colors,  in  woven  stripes,  in 
checks  and  in  a  great  variety  of 
printed  patterns.  Usually  such  fab- 
rics would  be  considered  rather  heavy 
in  weight,  for  the  yarns  used  are  sel- 
dom finer  than  30s  in  the  warp  and 
16s  in  the  filling.    The  reason  the  fill- 


288 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ing  is   heavier  than   the  warp   is   be- 
cause of  the  napping  operation. 

In  napping  such  fabrics  as  the  ones 
considered,  the  machinery  which  ac- 
complishes tlie  purpose  does  it  as  the 
cloth  is  moving  quite  rapidly  through 
tJie  machine,  and  naturally  it  would 
Hffect  the  filling  yarn.  To  give  suf- 
ficient strength  to  make  the  cloth  a 
satisfactory  article  it  is,  therefore, 
necessary  to  make  the  filling  heavy 
■enough  to  stand  the  napping  operation 
and  give  satisfactory  service  after- 
ward. One  reason,  in  addition,  why 
this  is  necessary  is  that  warp  yarn 
has  to  have  a  larger  amount  of  twist 


fabrics  in  recent  years.  They  used 
to  be  made  of  yarn  dyed  after  it  was 
spun,  and  this  process  is  employed 
to-day  to  an  extent,  but  many  mills 
now  make  their  fabrics  of  yarn  made 
from  dyed  cotton.  This  has  been  done 
without  question  in  the  fabric  being 
considered.  The  white  cotton  in  such 
fabrics  is  bleached  before  being  spun, 
and  while  this  is  objectionable,  inas- 
much as  the  whites  are  not  so  clear 
as  if  the  cloth  was  bleached  after  be- 
ing woven,  the  results  are  satisfactory 
in  practically  all  instances 

In  the  cloth  being  considered  there 
are   a    number   of   features   not   com- 


Flannelette  Novelty. 


in  proportion  than  does  filling  yarn, 
because  it  has  to  stand  the  strain  of 
weaving,  and  filling  can  be  soft  twist- 
ed with  n^uch  less  difficulty  in 
weaving.  It  is  also  customary  in  mak- 
ing this  kind  of  cloth  to  use  plain 
weave.  This  is  done  for  these  two 
reasons:  The  first  because  the  nap- 
ping operations  largely  cover  up  any 
weave  in  the  cloth,  ana  secona,  be- 
cause plain  weave  binds  in  the  tnreads 
better  and  makes  stronger  cloth. 

YARNS  USED. 
'-■■'-  There  has   been   quite  a  good   deal 
of  improvement  in  the  making  of  such 


mon  In  cloth  of  this  character.  In  the 
first  place  it  is  woven  on  a  box  loom, 
and  while  quite  a  few  patterns  are 
made  in  this  manner,  the  large  ma- 
jority of  them  are  not  made  on  this 
kind  of  a  loom.  In  the  second  place 
the  fabric  contains  novelty  yarn,  m 
addition  to  being  woven  on  the  box 
loom,  and  because  this  yarn  is  sel- 
dom seen  in  cloth  of  this  character 
it  may  be  well  to  explain  the  method 
of  making. 

NOVELTY  YARN. 
To   produce   such   a  yarn   compara- 
tively few   changes  are  necessary  In 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


289 


ordinary  machines,  although  there  are 
special  machines  sold  tor  accom- 
plishing such  results.  The  yarn  is 
compobed  oi  two  cnas  of  2us  yarn  for 
ground,  and  so  far  as  this  part  of  the 
result  is  concerned,  it  is  no  different 
than  the  making  of  ordinary  20-2  ply, 
but  in  addition  there  is  introduced 
into  the  yarn,  about  every  four  and 
one-half  inches,  a  bunch  of  another 
color  of  cotton,  lo  produce  this, 
there  must  be  an  extra  set  of  rolls, 
either  on  the  twister,  if  it  be  made 
on  a  novelty  twister,  or  on  the  frame 
which  produces  the  yarn.  This  extra 
set  of  rolls  has  an  intermittent  mo- 
tion forwarding  the  amount  of  dyed 
roving  necessary  and  spacing  it  at 
the  desired  lengths.  This  roving  is 
introduced  between  the  two  ends  of 
20-1  yarn,  when  the  twisting  operation 
is  taking  place,  and  20-1  yarn  twists 
around  the  roving,  making  the  bunch 
firm  and  capable  of  being  woven. 
Such  yarn  does  not  always  weave 
well,  and  in  this  identical  cloth  the 
yarn  in  the  warp  is  drawn  in  a  single 
end  in  a  dent,  instead  of  two  ends, 
as  is  the  case  in  the  rest  of  the  cloth. 
This  process  allows  a  larger  amount 
of  space,  and  is  not  liable  to  create 
a  great  amount  of  rubbing  to  spoil  the 
nub. 

AUTOMATIC  LOOMS. 

A  few  years  ago  practically  all  of 
such  fabrics  were  woven  on  ordinary 
plain  looms,  with  no  stop  motions  at- 
tached and  nonauton^atic  in  any  way. 
To-day,  many  of  such  fabrics  are 
made  on  automatic  looms,  that  is, 
the  ones  which  are  made  of  solid  col- 
or and  with  striped  patterns,  al- 
though only  few  checked  paterns  are 
made  In  this  manner.  A  good  many 
looms,  if  they  do  not  have  the  auto- 
matic changing  arrangement,  have 
some  kind  of  a  stop  motion  for  the 
warp  yarn  which  makes  it  possible 
for  a  weaver  to  produce  more  first 
quality  material.  Practically  all  of 
such  cloths  are  made  in  the  older 
style  of  mills,  and  are  finished  when 
they  are  delivered  by  the  mill.  The 
cloth  constructions  all  vary,  and 
probably  no  two  mills  produce  iden- 
tical fabrics,  although  cloth  weights 
mav  be  somewhat  similar. 

The  yarns  used  and  the  cloth  con- 


struction are  ones  which  each  mill 
has  developed,  and  which  is  probably 
more  economical  for  them  than  any 
other.  The  large  amount  ot  orders 
allows  mills  to  make  these  construc- 
tions continuously,  with  very  few 
changes  taking  place,  the  yarns  being 
the  same  size  from  year  to  year,  and 
the  cloth  remaining  practically  the 
same.  It  is  also  even  true  that  cloth 
prices  vary  ia  comparatively  small 
amounts.  This  is  done  so  that  the 
various  sellers  may  retail  the  cloth 
at  a  certain  price.  This  method 
makes  it  necessary  to  have  a  com- 
paratively high  price  some  years,  in 
comparison  to  the  cost  of  producing, 
while  at  other  times  the  selling  price 
shows  a  rather  small  profit. 

PROFITS  AND  COSTS. 

In  most  instances  tne  cost  of  pro- 
ducing a  fabric  of  this  character 
would  be  somewhere  about  25  to  26 
cents  a  pound.  If  a  plain  cloth  be 
considered  the  cost  would  be  less, 
while  if  a  novelty  cloth  be  wanted  it 
would  be  more.  The  cloth  considered 
has  a  higher  price  than  most  of  such 
materials,  because  it  has  such  a  nov- 
elty construction.  One  fact  in  this 
connection  is  that  all  styles  are  sold 
at  practically  the  same  price,  and  while 
the  average  sale  may  show  a  good 
profit,  there  will  be  certain  cloths  in 
the  lot  which  are  sold  that  will  show 
a  very  high  profit,  while  others  will 
show  a  smaller  one,  the  amount  de- 
pending on  the  cloth  construction.  A 
comparatively  easy  method  of  obtain- 
ing the  cost  per  yard  is  to  find  the 
weight  of  the  fabrics  as  woven,  and 
dividing  by  the  amount  previously 
stated  as  the  cost  per  pound.  This  is 
not  only  approximate,  but  is  some- 
times of  value. 

Another  thing  which  few  buyers 
consider  regarding  various  cloths  Is 
the  fair  mill  profits.  Such  a  cloth  as 
we  are  considering  has  a  rather  small 
number  of  picks  per  inch.  If  another 
cloth  be  considered  with  twice  the 
number  of  picks  per  inch,  the  profit 
per  yard  should  be  twice  as  high  as 
for  the  cloth  considered,  or  approxi- 
mately so,  and  a  cent  a  yard  profit  on 
the  cloth  being  considered  would  mean 
a  profit  each  week  per  loom  of  from 
$2.25  to  $2.50,  or  a  profit  per  year  of 


290 


A   COTTON   FABKICS   GLOSSARY 


about  $125  a  loom.  This  is  evidently 
a  very  good  return  on  the  capital  nec- 
essary in  building  a  mill  to  produce 
cloth  of  this  character. 

CLOTH  WEIGHT. 

One  other  feature  in  these  cloths  is 
the  different  appearance  of  the  fabric 
when  woven  and  when  sold,  which  is 
due  to  the  napping  operation.  It  is, 
however,  true  that  the  fuzz,  which 
appears  on  the  face  of  the  cloth, 
wears  off  rather  easily,  and  in  this 
way,  the  material  does  not  give  the 
best  of  satisfaction,  although  it  an- 
swers the  purpose  fairly  well.  It  will 
be  evident  from  an  examination  of 
the  cloth  that  there  must  be  a  loss  in 
weight  when  the  cloth  is  napped.  The 
amount  lost  will  depend  a  good  deal 
on  the  fabric  ami  on  the  a  r.ov.nt  of 
the  napping  operation,  but  it  is  likely 
that  in  a  cloth  of  this  character  the 
filling  yarn  will  lose  as  much  as  15 
per  cent,  or  even  more,  in  weight.  By 
pulling  out  a  few  threads  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  warp  has  been  affected 
very  little,  the  yarn  appearing  prac- 
tically the  same  as  it  would  have  if 
no  napping  had  been  employed.  Or- 
dinarily, fabrics  of  this  nature  are 
heavier  than  five  yards  per  pound, 
and  on  the  finer  weights  the  napping 
operation  might  make  the  cloth  from 
one-half  to  three-quarters  of  a  yard 
lighter  than  it  was  when  woven. 

PRINTED  FABRICS. 

In  general  it  can  be  said  that  pat- 
terns made  by  printing  are  not  nearly 
as  satisfactory  as  if  they  were  woven, 
for  the  colors  do  not  penetrate 
through  the  cloth,  and  when  the  nap 
wears  off,  which  it  partially  does,  at 
least,  its  color  appears  lighter  than 
it  otherwise  would.  The  patterns  are 
engraved  upon  copper  printing  rolls 
the  same  as  they  are  for  the  patterns 
used  on  dimities,  lawns  and  other 
printed  cloths,  but  it  is  customary, 
after  the  fabric  has  been  printed,  to 
give  it  a  very  light  run  on  the  napping 
machine  to  raise  the  fibre,  which  has 
been  laid  down  in  the  printing  oper- 
ation, and  to  give  the  cloth  a  smooth- 
er appearance.  Of  course,  when  fab- 
rics are  made  in  printed  patterns  it 


is  seldom  that  anything  but  white 
flannelette  is  used,  although  the 
ground  of  the  cloth  may  be  given  a 
solid  color  by  the  printing  operation, 

COTTON  USED. 

In  making  cloth  of  this  character,  it 
is  customary  to  use  cotton  of  rather 
short  staple,  in  most  cases  being 
one  inch  or  about  that  amount  in 
length.  This  is  done  because  coarse 
yarns  are  used,  and  the  napping  oper- 
ation breaks  the  fibres  a  good  deal, 
and  it  would  be  an  uneconomical 
method  to  use  high-priced  cotton  for 
such  a  purpose.  It  is  also  possible 
to  use  waste  of  various  kinds  in  mak- 
ing yarn  of  this  character,  and  it  is 
usually  done.  One  great  necessity  in 
making  even  yarn  for  the  production 
of  such  cloths  is  to  have  the  cotton 
mixed  as  well  as  possible  before  using 
in  the  pickers.  This  is  usually  done 
by  running  quite  a  large  amount  of 
cotton  through  the  bale  breaker  and 
allowing  it  to  stand,  and  when  placed 
in  the  picker,  instead  of  taking  the 
cotton  from  the  top  of  the  pile  and 
working  down,  it  is  taken  from  the 
edge  and  in  this  manner  a  more  aver- 
age quality  is  obtained,  which  neces- 
sarily results  in  more  even  yarn. 

Southern  mills  have  not  gone  into 
making  fabrics  of  this  nature  as 
largely  as  they  have  into  ginghams, 
possibly  because  the  market  is  more 
concentrated  on  such  fabrics,  and 
because  Northern  mills  have  special- 
ized in  this  direction  and  have  kept 
fairly  well  up-to-date.  It  is  also  true 
that  the  large  number  of  printed 
cloths  used  has  kept  Northern  mills 
working  on  these  fabrics  because 
there  are  no  plants  in  the  South  which 
make  printed  patterns  of  any  kind, 
and  the  base  of  supply  is  so  far  from 
the  finishing  plant  that  the  cost  of 
shipping  introduces  an  obstacle  to 
their  expense  of  making,  althougn 
there  are  a  good  many  woven  fabrics 
of  this  nature  now  being  produced  in 
that  locality.  Most  of  the  cloth  sold 
is  of  rather  narrow  width,  in  few 
cases  being  more  than  30  Inches,  and 
in  the  large  majority  of  Instances  it 
is  about  27  inches  wide  finished.  Be- 
cause of  the  napping  operation  the 
shrinkage  of  the  cloth  width  is  more 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


291 


than  It  would  be  on  similar  cloths,  but 
not  napped. 

YARN  AND  CLOTH  WEIGHTS. 

In  analyzing  a  fabric  of  this  char- 
acter, 1  o  general  rules  can  be  given. 
It  is  likely  that  in  the  majority  of 
cases  the  warp  yarn  would  be  about 
10  per  cent  finer  than  when  spun 
either  from  the  stretching,  washing 
or  the  other  operations  employed, 
that  is,  if  a  yarn  was  spun  20s  it 
might  be  about  22s  in  the  clo;h  when 
sold.  For  the  filling  the  amount  of 
loss  will  vary,  but  in  this  individual 
case  the  loss  was  about  20  per  cent. 
Naturally  the  cloth  weight  when  sold 
would  he  lighter  than  when  woven, 
but  inasmuch  as  mills  have  to  use  the 
material  to  produce  the  cloth,  and  be- 
cause little  return  is  obtained  for  the 
loss  made  in  napping,  it  can  be  said 
that  the  best  method  to  consider  such 
cloth  is  as  it  comes  from  the  loom. 

To  illustrate  the  cloth  in  question 
we  present  the  weights  of  the  various 
yarns  and  the  method  of  obtaining 
them.     In    very    many   instances    the 


yarns  are  not  separated  as  we  have 
done,  and  they  are  all  used  together 
at  an  average  price; 

1,34C  ends    -r-    (20/1    X    S40)    =    .0801,    weight 

of   white   yarn    without    take-up. 
.0801    -^    .96    =    .0852,    total    weight   of    white 

warp. 
114    ends   h-    (20/1    X    840)    =    .0067,    weight 

of   pinli   yarn    without   take-up. 
.0067    -V-    .96    =    .0072,    total    weight    of    pink 

warp. 
34  ends  -h   (6  novelty  X   840)   =  .0067,  weight 

of  novelty   yarn   without   take-up. 
.0067   -=-   .96    =   .0072,   total   weight  of  novelty 

warp. 
41. S  picks  X  30%"  reed  width  X  36" 

— =    1,264.45 

36" 

yards   of   white   filling   per  yard. 
3.9    picks  X  30%"  reed  width  X  36" 


yards   of   pink   filling   per   yard. 
.3    picks  X  30%"  reed  width  X  36" 

36" 


=      69.57 


20/1    Am.   carded    white. 


20/1   Am.   carded  colored. 
6    novelty    twist 


yards  of  novelty   filling  per  yard. 
1.264.45     -^     (9%/l     X     840)     =    .1585.     total 

weight    white    filling    per   yard. 
117.95       -^       (91^/1     X     840)     =    .0148.       total 

weight    pink    filling    per    yard. 
G9.57    H-     (6    novelty     X     840)     =    .0138,    total 

weight   novelty    filling   per   yard. 
.0852    +    .0072    4-    .0072    +    .1585    4-    .0148     -|- 

.0138    =    .2867,    total    weight   per   yard. 
1.0000    -f-    .2867    =    3.49    yards   per   pound,    as 

woven. 


281 —    =   1,346 


WARP   PATTERN. 

2 

—  30 

S 

12 
2 

1 
12 

1 

2 

1 
44 

1 

1 
61       14 

1 

1                  1 

30       il2        121 

1                 1 

1   21                 12 

1 

9   '   ^' 
1   81 

=       114 
=         34 


IIX 
FILLING  PATTERN. 

9»4    Am.   carded   white I   42   I  I   12   I  I    12 

9^4    Am.    carded    colored 2 

6   novelty   twist I  |  |  I     2   | 


=     108 

=         10 

2   1=  6 


25   reed;    30%"  width   In   reed,    26^4' 
56    X     46    finished   count. 


finished   width. 
YARNS. 


20/1    Am.   carded  white, 
20/1   Am.   carded  colored, 
9%/l   Am.   carded   white. 


Cotton. 
12i>4c. 
12%c. 
12%c. 
12V6C. 
121/4C. 


1"  sta. ;  4       hank  dou.  rov., 
1"  sta.;  4       hank  dou.  rov., 
1"  sta.;  2%  hank  dou.  rov., 
9V4/1  Am.  carded  colored,   1"  sta. ;  2^4  hank  dou.  rov., 
6    novelty    twist,    made    of    20/1    and    dyed    roving, 

COST. 

1,346   ends   20/1    Am.    carded +    6%   take-up 

114    ends    20/1    Am.    carded 4-    6%   take-up 

34    ends    novelty    twist -|-    6%   take-up 

41.8   picks   9V4/1    Am.    carded 

3.9    picks  9  >^ /I    Am.    carded 

2.3   picks    novelty   twist 

Weaving     

Expenses    


Labor,  waste,  etc. 
7%c.  = 

8%c.  = 

6c.  = 

7%c.  = 

llMiC.  = 


.0852 
.0072 
.0072 
.1585 
.0148 
.0138 


19%c. 

21c. 

24c. 

18%c. 

19%c. 

24c. 


Napping,    finishing,    etc. 
Selling     


Loom  yards  per  pound.    3.49.       Cost  per  pound,    27.29c. 
Finished  yards  about  4.25  per  pound. 
Retail  price  16c.   per  yard. 


19%c. 

21c. 

18%c. 

19%c. 

24c. 

$  .0168 
.0015 
.0017 
.0293 
.0029 
.0033 
.0065 
.0087 

$  .0707 
.0040 

$  .0747 
.0035 

t  .0781 


292 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


PLAIN  WARP  COTTON  EPONGE 

During  the  past  year  or  so,  there 
has  been  quite  a  number  of  new  fab- 
rics produced  for  sale.  Of  these  mate- 
rials, ratine  has  probably  been  the 
one  which  has  created  the  largest 
amount  of  interest.  One  year  ago 
many  styles  were  produced,  and  there 
was  a  moderate  amount  of  buying,  but 
then  there  appeared  to  be  a  partial 
slump  in  the  demand,  with  sellers  ex- 


in  quantities  until  consumers  have 
been  educated  up  to  the  cloth,  and 
this  is  a  rather  slow  process.  The 
making  of  styles  in  various  materials 
also  helps  a  great  deal,  and  it  is  very 
likely  that  the  sale  in  cotton  would 
have  continued  smaller  except  for  the 
increased  interest  in  wool  and  silk. 
The  idea  expressed  in  the  cloth  con- 
struction is  not  new,  for  styles  have 
been  produced  at  various  times  in  re- 
cent years  which  are  practically 
identical   with   the    styles   now    offer- 


Plain  Warp  Cotton   Eponge. 


pecting  that  no  large  future  opera- 
tions would  take  place.  During  this 
same  time,  however,  fabrics  of  this 
nature  have  been  produced  in  quite 
large  quantities  in  wool  and  combi- 
nations of  wool  and  cotton,  and  also 
in  silk,  and  it  is  freely  admitted  that 
the  sale  now  is  larger  than  it  ever 
has  been  in  the  past.  There  Is  this 
to  be  said  of  any  cloth  which  has  as 
great  a  novelty  character  as  ratine 
regarding  the  sale.  Interest  in  such 
fabrics  does  not  develop  all  at  once, 
but  it  is  the  continual  presentation 
of  styles  and  interest  among  the  trade 
which  makes  a  large  sale  possible. 
Buyers  will  not  purchase  such  cloths 


ed,  but  at  that  time  there  was  no 
demand  for  such  cloth,  and  the  sales 
were  of  comparatively  small  propor- 
tions. 

FACTS  REGARDING  CLOTH. 

In  the  past  we  have  analyzed  a 
number  of  the  more  expensive  cotton 
fabrics  of  ratine  construction,  but  in 
the  fabric  now  presented  we  give  an 
analysis  of  one  of  the  cheaper  grades 
which  is  a  development  from  such 
cloths.  This  cloth  is  without  doubt 
the  largest  selling  cotton  rating  in 
the  cotton  goods  market,  and  in  con- 
nection with  this  fact,  there  are  a 
number    of    Interesting    Items    which 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


391 


we  will  take  up  in  the  analysis  of 
it.  It  is  produced  by  the  Manville 
Company  and  is  sold  by  George  B. 
Duren  &  Sons,  New  York  City.  The 
cost  at  retail  is  25  cents  a  yard 
and  it  is  sold  by  jobbers  at  a  price 
to  allow  the  regular  retail  profits  and 
at  a  price  to  the  jobbers  to  allow  them 
their  profits  also.  The  profits  of  the 
makers  of  this  cloth  will  be  taken  up 
in  detail  later.  Fabrics  of  this  char- 
acter are  used  for  very  many  purposes, 
such  as  dresses,  waists,  trimmings, 
hats,  coverings,  men's  vests,  and  very 
many  other  purposes,  which  do  not 
have  such  great  importance. 

YARNS. 

Quite  a  good  deal  of  ingenuity  has 
been  used  in  the  making  of  this  fab- 
ric, the  ratine  effect  not  being  produc- 
ed by  both  warp  and  filling,  as  in 
many  of  the  previous  samples  sold, 
but  by  the  filling  alone.  Tne  warp  is 
made  of  plain  dyed  yarn,  no  different 
in  character  from  that  used  for  many 
of  the  ordinary  dyed  fabrics  which 
have  a  wide  sale.  In  this  individual 
fabric  the  effect  produced  is  made  by 
the  difference  in  color  between  warp 
and  filling  and  by  the  novelty  charac- 
ter of  the  filling  yarn.  This  novelty  fill- 
ing is  not  made  like  many  of  the 
yarns  composing  ratine  cloth,  but  it  is 
what  might  be  called  a  nub  yarn. 
Many  of  the  earlier  fabrics  of  ratine 
constructions  were  made  of  loop 
yarns.  The  cloth  count  is  very  low, 
although,  because  of  the  heavy  char- 
acter of  the  filling  and  because  of  the 
\arn  roughness,  the  cloth  has  a  com- 
paratively firm  texture.  The  count 
is  66  in  the  warp  and  24  in  the  fill- 
ing in  the  finished  cloth.  In  regard 
to  the  novelty  yarn,  it  can  be  said 
that  two  twisting  operations  are  nec- 
essary, the  second  one  being  for  the 
purpose  of  binding  the  previously 
produced  yarn  so  that  it  can  be  wo- 
ven. Fabrics  of  this  character  have 
been  made  in  quite  large  quantities  in 
the  past,  but  the  larger  share  of  them 
have  been  composed  wholly  of  grey 
yarn,  and  naturally,  they  do  not  show 
the  novelty  character  which  this 
cloth  does.  The  warp  take-up  is 
somewhat  greater  than  would  be  not- 


ed In  an  ordinary  fabric,  this  being 
brought  about  throigh  the  heavy 
size  of  the  filling,  which  lies  practi- 
cally straight  in  the  cloth.  Thils  heavy 
filling  also  makes  it  unnecessary 
when  weaving  to  have  the  cloth  so 
wide  in  the  reed  as  if  a  gingham 
were  being  made. 

METHOD  OF  FINDING  YARN  SIZES. 

Of  course,  the  problem  of  finding 
the  warp  size  is  a  rather  simple  one, 
because  the  yarn  is  only  ordinary 
yarn,  and  if  a  few  ends  be  taken  from 
the  cloth  and  sized  in  the  ordinary 
manner,  the  yarn  size  anl  weights 
can  be  obtained.  This  process  can 
also  be  adopted  regarding  the  filling 
yarn,  and  it  will  give  the  ultimate 
size  when  the  yarn  is  made  up.  It 
does  not,  however,  give  the  sizes  of 
tlie  yarns  which  compose  the  thread 
when  woven.  There  are  a  number  of 
methods  by  which  such  yarn  size  can 
be  figured,  so  as  to  check  up  the 
yarns  used,  and  the  ultimate  size. 
Possibly,  the  clearest  method  is  to 
find  the  take-ups  on  the  three  yarns 
which  compose  the  finished  novelty. 
The  take-ups  are  found  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  If  the  threads  which 
compose  the  yarns  be  pulled  apart, 
their  lengths  being  measured  careful- 
ly, the  take-ups  will  be  as  follows: 
Figuring  that  the  novelty  yarn  is 
3  15-16  inches,  as  taken  froiu  the 
cloth,  the  last  binder  thread  which  is 
twisted  to  hold  the  nubs  in  place 
would  be  four  inches  in  length,  the 
ground  thread  on  which  the  nub  is 
made  is  45  inches  in  length,  and  th« 
yarn  which  composes  the  nub  would 
be  8%  inches  in  length.  The  take-ups 
would  be  2  per  cent  for  the  binder,  15 
per  cent  for  the  ground  yarn  and  55 
per  cent  for  the  nub  yarn. 


3  ns-f) 
3.9375 
3.9375 


4.00  =  about  .98  or  2%  take-up. 
4.625  =  about  .85  or  15%  take-up 
8.75      =  about  .45  or   55%    take-up 


When  this  has  been  accomplished, 
the  yarn  can  be  sized  in  the  ordinary 
manner  and  the  yarn  sizes  obtained. 
To  secure  the  size  of  the  three-ply 
thread  the  process  is  similar  to  that 
used  with  an  ord'nary  three-ply 
thread  made  of  different  numbers  of 
yarn,  the  various  sizes  being  the  ones 


294 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  QLOSSART 


obtained   plus  the  take-ups  obtained 
previously: 

25  yarh  size  X  .98  —  24.50  binder  yarn  size 
or  ratio. 

25  yarn  size  X  .S5  =  21.25  ground  yarn  size 
or  ratio. 

25  yarn  size  X  .45  =  11.25  nub  yarn  size 
or  ratio. 

25    -!-    24.50    =    1.020 

25    -h    ii.lio    =    1.176 

25    -7-    11.25    =    2.222 


25    -!-    4.418 
size. 


4.41g 
5.6tt    iigured   size,    also   actual 


It  will  be  noted  that  the  resulting 
yarn  size  is  5.tit),  which  is  the  size 
actually  obtained  when  the  yarn  is 
weighed  betore  being  dissected.  It 
can  be  said  that  the  cost  of  making 
such  yarns  is  higher  than  for  ordi- 
nary work,  but  is  not  so  large  an 
amount  as  many  believe  who  have  not 
had  experience  in  manufacturing. 

In  many  instances,  yarnj  of  this 
character  can  be  made  on  ordinary 
spirauiig  fra^:es  whicli  are  adjusted 
for  the  purpose.  At  other  times  they 
are  made  on  twisting  frames  which 
are  rearranged,  and  it  is  also  pos- 
sible to  purchase  machines  for  mak- 
ing such  yarns.  The  ultimate  cost  is 
determined  largely  by  the  amount  of 
experimentation  necessary  before  the 
correct  results  are  obtained,  it  is 
easy  to  make  novelty  yarns  of 
this  character,  but  it  is  not  always 
so  easy  to  obtain  the  combination 
which  produces  good  results  when 
woven.  If  orders  be  of  quite  good 
size,  the  cost  of  producing  is  rela- 
tively small.  The  second  twisting  op- 
eration is  of  minor  importance  and 
the  cost  of  doing  it  is  ratuer  small, 
mainly  for  the  reason  that  compara- 
tively small  twist  is  necessary  when 
placing  the  binder  on  the  cloth,  and 
the  production  is  large. 

NOVELTY  YARN  MAKING. 

It  is  very  likely  that  the  larger 
share  of  such  yarns  are  made  on 
spinning  frames  wliich  are  rearrang- 
ed for  svch  rurposo.  In  making  varns 
of  this  character,  the  two  threads  in 
the  first  twisting  operation  are  usual- 
ly delivered  at  about  the  same  speed, 
but  the  ground  thread  moves  forward 
only  at  interval.^.  In  this  individual 
ease,  the  nubs  are  spaced  at  intervals 
of  about  five-eighths  of  an  inch  each. 


Sometimes  such  yarns  are  made  by  a 
slide  which  moves  up  and  down,  spac- 
ing the  extra  yarn  delivered  at  the 
points  where  desired.  Ona  of  the 
points  to  receive  careful  consideration 
in  any  such  kind  of  yarn  production 
is  that  relating  to  strength.  When 
the  yarns  being  used  are  oi  tine  sizes, 
as  many  are,  it  is  usually  necessary 
to  use  two  ends  for  ground  instead 
of  one,  but  in  this  instance,  the  yarn 
is  of  such  coarse  character  that  com- 
paratively Utile  attention  need  be  giv- 
en to  this  item,  and  another  reason 
why  less  care  is  necessary  is  because 
the  yarn  is  used  for  filling  instead  of 
warp.  If  the  novelty  yarn  was  used 
for  warp,  greater  strength  is  neces- 
sary, and,  in  general,  the  nubs  and 
loops  have  to  be  bound  in  more  firmly 
because  of  the  rubbing  action  exerted 
by  the  reed.  The  combinations  in 
such  yarns  are  practically  number- 
less, for  they  are  made  in  combina- 
tions of  various  materials,  in  combina- 
tions of  various  colors,  with  nubs 
spaced  at  regular  and  also  at  irregular 
distances,  and  then  there  is  the  wide 
variety  caused  by  the  combination  of 
different  sizes  of  yarn.  It  is  probable 
that  no  two  mills  use  exactly  the 
same  sizes  of  yarn,  the  same  amount 
of  twist  or  produce  the  same  effect, 
although,  in  general,  the  results  may 
be  somewhat  similar. 

WEAVING. 

There  are  certain  features  regard- 
ing the  yarn  which  we  have  brought 
to  notice  as  being  different  from  those 
in  ordinary  cloth,  but  there  are  also 
items  which  are  of  interest  relating 
to  the  production  of  the  cloth.  In  the 
first  place,  the  filling  which  sizes 
about  51^  is  so  heavy  that  it  lasts  only 
a  short  time  when  the  loom  is  in  op- 
eration. This  makes  the  chief  occu- 
pation of  the  weaver  that  of  changing 
the  filling  when  it  runs  out,  and 
at  the  mill,  such  cloths  are  usu- 
ally called  filling  jobs.  This  continual 
changing  of  the  filling  bobbins  also 
makes  the  percentage  of  production 
rather  low  in  comparison  with  many 
fancy  fabrics.  It  is  also  true  that  a 
weaver  cannot  operate  so  many  looms 
as  on  ordinary  goods  largely  because 
of  this  above-mentioned  continual 
changing    of    shuttles.      Because   the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


296 


weaver  does  not  operate  a  great  num- 
ber of  looms  does  not  mean  that  the 
yardage  production  per  loom  or  per 
weaver  is  not  large,  for  it  is.  This  is 
occasioned  because  of  the  small  num- 
ber of  picks  per  inch,  namely,  24.  This 
will  be  clear  to  anyone  who  has  ever 
been  connected  with  cloth  making. 
The  small  number  of  picks  also  ex- 
plains other  important  features  re- 
garding the  cloth.  It  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  operate  looms  at  a  some- 
what lower  speed  than  for  other  plain 
fabrics,  although  not  much  slower 
than  would  be  noted  on  ordinary 
dobby  cloth, 

PROFITS. 
As  previously  stated,  this  fabric  Is 
without  doubt  the  largest  seller  of 
any  similar  domestic  cloth,  and  also 
has  as  low  a  retail  price  as  any  yet 
brought  to  light.  This  low  price  does 
not  indicate  that  the  makers  are  not 
reaping  a  harvest  from  such  cloth 
manufacturing.  It  will  be  noted  from 
the  pnalvsis  given  that  the  cost  of 
manufacturing  and  selling  is  practical- 
ly 9  cents  per  yard.  This  includes  all 
the  expenses  which  should  be  incur- 
red up  to  the  jobber.  The  selling 
house,  it  is  understood,  acts  only  as  a 
distributing  agency  for  the  mill,  and 
the  costs  for  selling  this  cloth  are 
given  at  a  conservative  levjl  and  one 
which  many  houses  could  equal.  Un- 
der such  circumstances,  practically  all 
the  profits  made  would  accrue  to  the 
mill.  The  net  profit,  as  figured, 
amounts  to  about  4  cents  a  yard.  This 
does  nc  fc  seem  great  for  a  novelty  fab- 
ric, but  it  is  large  when  the  actual 
profits  are  considered.  Due  to  the 
very  material  production  per  loom, 
a  profit  on  a  fabric  of  this  character 
would  be  much  larger  than  on  one 
where  the  number  of  picks  was  high- 
er, therefore  4  cents  per  yard  on  this 
24-pick  cloth  means  a  profit  per  loom 
per  week  of  at  least  $17.50.  This  gives 
a  rate  of  profit  per  loom  per  year  of 
approximately  $900.  At  a  loom  valua- 
tion of  $800,  and  this  is  conservative 
for  a  mill  producing  a  fabric  of  this 
kind,  a  net  profit  should  be  obtained 
of  over  110  Per  cent  a  year.  It  is 
very  likely  that,  with  the  economies 
which  this  corporation  Is  known  to 
adont.  possibly  more  than  this  amount 
Is  being  secured,  and  the  figures  are 


approximately  correct  for  other  mills 
which  might  be  inclined  to  produce 
this  cloth. 

JUSTIFICATION  FOR  PRICE. 

It  can  be  said  that  very  few  cases 
indeed  are  ever  noted  in  th*"  domestic 
markets  where  profits  are  so  exces- 
sive as  they  are  on  this  fabric,  but 
there  is  something  to  be  said  regard- 
ing these  facts  concerning  the  cloth 
and  the  profits  being  obtained.  On 
plain  materials  which  are  now  being 
made,  and  which  have  been  manufac- 
tured continuously  in  large  quanti- 
ties, such  as  sheetings,  duck,  denims, 
flannelette  and  other  similar  cloth, 
a  small  profit  a  yard  is  all  that  any 
mill  expects  to  make,  because  they 
are  regular  fabrics  and  require  com- 
paratively little  ability  to  produce. 
Operations  are  very  regular  on  such 
fabrics,  and  changes  in  style  seldom 
take  place.  Under  such  conditions, 
when  it  is  considered  that  present 
cloth  prices  actually  do  represent  a 
net  profit  of  25  per  cent  on  many 
kinds  of  these  cloths,  even  though 
some  are  inclined  to  dispute  the  fact, 
the  comparison  of  profits  shown  on 
this  cloth  does  not  appear  so  exces- 
sive. 

It  takps  ability  and  foresight  to  work 
out  a  fabric  which  is  adaptable  to  a 
certain  style  and  which  can  be  made 
at  a  price  cheap  enough  to  have  a 
large  sale.  Even  in  comparison  with 
many  of  the  imported  fabrics  which 
have  sold  at  $1  a  yard,  it  can  be  said 
that  this  cloth  shows  as  good  value 
as  many  of  them,  and  at  25  cents  a 
■"•prd  ret?il.  In  so  far  as  the  value  to 
the  consumer  is  much  greater  than  it 
was  a  while  ago,  it  can  be  said  that 
the  mill  profit  on  such  a  cloth  is  jus- 
tifiable. There  is  a  greater  chance 
taken  in  making  such  cloth,  and  it  is 
seldom  that  one  is  developed  which 
shows  the  high  rate  of  profit  named. 
Comnetltion  is  also  very  keeu  in  the 
making  of  such  lines,  and  only  by 
getting  In  ahead  of  others  Cjin  high 
profits  be  obtained,  and  in  a  short 
time  others  are  likely  to  force  com- 
petition to  a  point  whe^-e  profits  are 
not  so  larpre.  Cloths  of  this  charac- 
ter lave  onlv  a  short  run  at  best,  and 
then  combinations  and  adaptations  are 
necessary   with   the   materials   which 


296 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


happen   to  be   in  style,   so   that  high  mercerization   process.      Many    other 

profits    of    this   nature   are    compara-  items  might  be  given  along  the  same 

lively  short  lived.  line,  and  so  far  as  the  styling  is  con- 

IMPROVEMENT  IN  FABRICS.  cerned,     imported     fabrics     show     no 

.,,    ^,            ,     .       .  greater,  if  as  great,  adaptability  or  ef- 

In  connection  with  the  analysis  of  a  fectiveness 

novelty  fabric  of  this  character  it  may  piiMmMP   varm  wftpwtc: 

be  of  advantage  to  again  bring  to  no-  FINDING  YARN  WEIGHTS, 

tice  the  fact  that  the  domestic  Indus-  In    connection   with   what   we   have 

try  Las  improved  a  great  deal  in  the  previously    presented    regarding    the 

past  five  years.     This  cloth  is  a  good  finding  of   yarn   sizes,   the   finding  of 

illustration   of   the  development   of   a  the  yarn   weights   and   from  this   the 

fabric  to  suit  a  demand,  and  that  it  is  cost   of  the  cloth  is   a  rather   simple 

an   improvement   in    price,    so   far   as  proceeding.     The  cotton  used  in  this 

the  cjnsumer  is  concerned,  is  worthy  fabric  is  no  different  than  that  used 

PATTERN. 
28/1  Am.  carded   warp,   colored.      1.824   total  ends. 
£.66  novelty,  3-pIy   filling.     24  picks  tinished. 
32  reed.   28"  width   in  reed,   27"  wide  finished. 
67    X    24   cloth  count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton.  Labor,  waste,  etc. 

28/1  Am.   carded,   IMa"  sta. ;   5%   hank  dou.   rov.,  ].i»'2C.  16V4c.  =      28%c. 

5.66     novelty,      IVie"     sta.;      5     hank     dou.      rov..  12>/ic.  20%c.  =      33c. 

COST. 

1,524  ends  28/1   Am.   carded   +    10%   take-up   =  .0857    @    2S%c =  $  .0246 

84   picks   5.66    novelty                                                     =.1414    @    33c =  .0467 

Weaving    .0056 

Expenses     .004S 

$  .0817 
Washing,    etc .0040 

Mill    cost    $.0857 

Selling     0034 

$   .0891 
Selling  house  price  about  13c.   net  per  yard. 
Jobbing   price   about   16 %c.   per  yard. 
Retail   price    25c.   per  yard. 
Yards  per  pound.   4.40. 
Cost  of  producing  at  mill   =  37. Tic.  per  lb. 

of   notice,    even   though   large    profits  in  many  of  the  ordinary  fabrics,  the 

are   being   secured.     An    examination  whole  result  being  obtained  from  the 

of  the  various  lines  of  cloth  which  are  combination  of  yarn  and   the  method 

l}eing  shown   by  converters  and   con-  of  making.     TL  >  weights  are  obtained 

verting    jobbers    will    emphasize    the  as  follows: 

fact   that   probably   greater    improve-  i,s24  ends  -=-  (28/i  x  840)  =  .0771.  weight 

ment  has  been  made  in  the  past  five  ,„»/  ^^■'"p  without  tr^ke-up. 

years   in   cloth   manufacturing  in   do-  .Y#i  'l^^.g^^L'^osTTflofai  weight  of  waro 

mestic  mills  than  has  ever  taken  place  per  yard  of  cioth. 

before    in    the    same   length    of   time.  24  picks  x  28"  reed  width  x  36"  ^  ^^^  ^^^^^ 

Mercerized  shirtings  and  dress  goods,  36" 

fast    colors    in    combinations,    decora-  ,,f  T'li^riJ^ll^y  x   840)   =  .i4i4.  total 

tions    or    real    and    artificial    silk,  the  weight  of  fining  per  yard  of  cioth. 

deveiop-ment   of  fabrics  for  a  certain  "^^f'^  ,+     ^^i*    =   •227i.    total   weight   per 

demand,   and   various   other   items   of  i.oYoo  -^  .2271  =  4.40  yards  per  pound. 

interest   are   very   evident.     The   new  4  .  » 

combinations  have  made  another  field 

which   has  almost  established   a   new  nOTTON    MIIPFRY 

industry  in   certain   directions.      This  v^V  1  i  Uil    Lf lini  lill  1  . 

is  shown  in  one  way  by  the  large  use  This  fabric  is  one  of  the  very  many 

of  mercerized  cloths  for  men's  shirt-  which    have   a  rather    wide    distrlbu- 

ings.    Without  doubt,  the  present  style  tion,    the   prices   varying  greatly,   de- 

in  men's  shirts  would  never  have  been  pending  on  the  quality  and  weight  of 

used  to  a  great  extent  except  for  the  the  goods,  the    material    from   which 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


297 


they  are  made  and  various  other  de- 
tails of  Taanufacturing.  In  a  general 
way,  such  fabrics  are  not  only  made 
in  rather  small  quantities  at  the  mills, 
but  they  are  sold  in  very  restricted 
amounts  by  the  retailers.  The  vari- 
ous avenues  of  distribution  are  rath- 
er small,  and  do  not  compare  with 
those  noted  on  the  ordinary  kinds  of 
cotton  fabrics,  such  as  dimities,  lawns, 
flannelettes,  etc.  All  the  above  items 
affect  the  price  of  the  goods,  and, 
naturally,  most  of  them  are  rather  ex- 
pensive.    The  fabric  which  we  are  to 


be  said  that  the  yams  in  this  cloth  are 
much  finer  than  those  ordinarily  noted 
in  hammocks. 

WOVEN  ON  JACQUARD  LOOMS. 

Many  of  the  cloths  such  as  that 
analyzed,  and,  in  fact,  most  of  the 
ones  sold  in  any  large  quantities,  are 
produced  on  jatquard  looms.  These 
looms  are  tied  up  in  a  coarser  count 
than  that  noted  in  most  cotton  and 
silk  fabrics,  few  of  them  being  as 
high  a  count  as  100  per  inch,  and  most 
of  them  much  lower  than  this  amount. 


Cotton  Drapery. 


consider  is  one  of  the  very  cheap 
cloths  which  are  made  and  sold  for 
the  use  as  noted.  Such  cloths  are 
sometimes  used  for  other  purposes 
than  draperies,  but  this  purpose  forms 
the  largest  portion  of  the  sales.  It 
can  be  said  that  the  profits  from  mak- 
ing and  selling  these  cloths  are  larger 
than  for  other  cloths,  mainly  because 
the  distribution  is  small,  and  the 
amount  of  yardage  sold  is  a  rather 
small  amount.  These  cloths  are  very 
similar  to  many  which  are  used  for 
hammocks,  and  other  purposes  where 
the  cloth  count  is  low,  although  it  can 


The  cloth  we  have  analyzed  was  prob- 
ably made  on  an  ordinary  400  jac- 
quard  head,  with  a  tie-up  of  some- 
where in  the  vicinity  of  50  threads  per 
inch.  This  makes  the  total  pattern 
repeat  about  8  inches  in  width.  It 
may  be  possible  that  this  cloth  instead 
of  being  made  as  noted  was  tied  up 
100  per  inch  with  a  pattern  of  about 
4  inches  instead  of  8  inches.  The 
repeat  of  the  pattern  is  about 
4  inches  wide,  there  being  two  repeats 
to  the  jacquard  machine.  Of  course, 
if  the  machine  was  tied  up  100  per 
inch   there   would    have  to   be   about 


29t 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


one-half  of  the  machine"  cast 
out  in  the  weaving  of  this  cloth.  In  a 
great  many  fancy  drapery  labrics  the 
jacquard  machines  are  tied  up  so  as 
to  produce  a  border.  This  is  done  by 
having  a  certain  number  of  hoolis  in 
the  jacquard  machine  set  aside  and 
tied  up  so  that  they  operate  only  on 
one  side  of  the  cloth.  In  other  cases, 
fabrics  are  woven  double  width  with 
an  open  space  down  the  center  of  the 
cloth,  and  when  the  fabric  is  woven, 
this  open  space  is  cut  and  made  into  a 
sort  of  fringe.  At  other  times  the 
fringe,  if  there  is  any,  is  added  after 
the  fabric  is  woven. 

YARNS  USED. 

In  the  cloth  considered  the  yarns 
which  have  been  used  in  manufactur- 
ing are  not  different  from  those  noted 
in  very  many  fabrics,  but  the  combina- 
tion is  not  customary.  The  warp  yarn 
is  composed  entirely  of  black,  and  the 
yarn  is  such  as  might  be  noted  in 
many  medium  cr  rather  fine  dyed  yarn 
fabrics,  although  the  cloth  count  is 
rather  low,  being  only  50  threads  per 
inch.  In  a  great  many  of  these  fab- 
rics the  cloth  count  is  low,  not  only 
in  order  to  aid  in  producing  a  fabric 
at  a  low  cost,  but  also  to  give  a  certain 
amount  of  softness  not  customary 
when  fabrics  are  woven  with  a  high 
':ount  and  heavy  yarns.  In  some  kinds 
\JL  cloths  carded  yarns  are  used,  and 
in  other  cases,  the  yarns  are  of 
combed  construction.  The  figure 
which  is  woven  on  the  cloth  is  made 
entirely  by  the  filling,  and  although 
there  are  two  kinds  of  fili'ng  used  only 
one  of  them  brings  out  the  effect.  In 
the  first  place,  there  is  a  fine  black 
filling  used,  somewhat  similar  to  the 
warp  yarn.  This  is  much  finer  in  size 
than  is  ordinarily  noted  in  dyed  yarn 
fabrics.  Both  black  warp  and  filling 
are  probably  y^rn  dyed,  because,  in 
the  large  majority  of  instances,  this 
is  the  method  adopted  in  dyeing  yarns 
for  such  kinds  of  cloth.  The  filling 
which  produces  the  pa. tern  is  also 
dyed,  but  Instead  of  being  black  it  has 
a  golden  color,  and  besides  being  dyed, 
it  is  also  mercerized.  As  is  usual,  this 
mercerized  yam  is  much  heavier  in 
size  than  the  yarns  used  in  the  ground 
clo*h,   for  thig   mercerized   yarn   pro- 


duces the  effect,  and,  therefore,  needs 
to  be  more  prominent. 

MBRCERIZATION. 
A  few  ideas  regarding  the  process 
of  mercerization  may  be  of  interest 
when  this  cloth  is  being  considered, 
a-U,  tufcieioie,  a  lew  lucts  are  given, 
although  there  has  been  no  intention 
Oi  fex.iug  a  mmutd  Uedcnption.  Wnen 
ordinary  cotton  is  examined,  it  pre- 
sents an  appearance  somewhat  like  a 
rather  flat  twisted  tube  with  curled 
edges.  This  is  when  ripe  cotton  hbres 
are  considered.  When  this  same  cot- 
ton is  mercerized,  it  seems  to  swell 
out  and  appear  more  like  a  small 
glass  rod  with  many  of  the  rough 
edges  eliminated,  and  this  smoothness 
imparts  the  luster  which  mercerized 
yarn  contains.  It  must  be  remember- 
ed that  when  cotton  is  allowed  to 
shrink  practically  no  luster  results, 
Lut  when  either  cotton  fibres,  yarns 
or  cloths  are  held  out  tightly  when  im- 
iiersed,  the  result  is  a  smooth  and 
giossy  appearance,  which  is  perma- 
nent. There  are  various  chemicals 
which  will  produce  these  effects  on 
cotton  fibres,  but,  due  to  reasons  of 
economy,  practically  only  one  solution 
is  used  to  any  great  extent.  The 
strength  of  this  solution  will  vary,  de- 
pending on  the  temperature  at  which 
the  process  is  accomplished,  and  no 
great  difference  in  result  is  apparent 
even  if  a  stronger  solution  than  is 
necessary  be  used.  As  a  usual  thing, 
the  shrinkage,  when  it  is  allowed,  will 
amount  to  about  20  per  cent,  although 
this  amount  will  vary  somewhat. 
When  this  process  is  done  commer- 
cially, the  excess  of  chemical  in  the 
solution  is  separated  after  the  process 
is  accomplished,  and  is  then  used 
again.  It  can  be  said  that  the  large 
use  which  has  been  made  of  this  proc- 
ess of  late  has  been  instrumental  in 
reducing  the  costs  of  operation  and 
making  it  possible  of  application  to  a 
great  many  fabrics  where  the  cost  of 
doing  it  made  it  formerly  imprac- 
ticable. Of  course,  a  large  majority  of 
products  can  be  either  mercerized  in 
the  yarn  or  in  the  cloth.  Yarns  are 
mercerized  in  two  methods,  the  first 
being  in  a  skein  form  where  the 
skeins  are  placed  on  a  sort  of  drum 
which   is   immersed   in    the    solution 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


2»t 


and  wherein  the  drum  prevents 
shrinking.  The  second  method  is  to 
mercerize  the  yarn  in  a  chain  form, 
the  machine  employed  making  it  pos- 
sible to  keep  the  yarn  under  tension 
while  it  IS  in  the  solution.  Both  of 
these  processes  were  used  quite  ex- 
teasively  before  the  final  decision  was 
reached  that  the  patents  which  had 
formerly  been  granted  did  not  hold,  al- 
though, naturally,  few  outside  of  the 
various  plants  knew  they  were  being 
used.  Recently,  there  has  been  a 
large  increase  in  the  sale  of  fabrics 
which  are  mercerized.  These  are  of 
two  kinds.  The  first  is  that  class 
wherein  soft  or  rather  soft  twist  yarn 
is  used  as  filling,  and  which  is  held 
tightly  in  the  filling  direction  when  it 
is  mercerized;  in  other  words,  the 

SOFT    TWIST   FILLING 

is  the  portion  of  the  cloth  which  re- 
ceives the  mercerization.  The  second 
class  of  fabrics  is  that  which  is  com- 
posed of  soft  twist  two-ply  warp,  and 
which  is  held  tightly  lengthwise  of 
the  fabric,  and  in  which  the  warp 
yarn  receives  the  luster.  In  the  first 
class  of  cloths  is  the  long  list  of  shirt- 
ings, waistings  and  other  rather  fine 
fabrics,  while  in  the  second  division 
are  the  mercerized  poplins  and  sim- 
ilar fabrics,  and  in  which  list  is  in- 
cluded some  kinds  of  draperies.  A 
while  ago  it  was  believed  that  the 
process  was  of  small  value  to  any 
fabric  which  was  produced  from  short 
staple  cotton  or  from  carded  yarns, 
but  recent  events,  notably  the  lower- 
ing of  costs  of  operation  and  improve- 
ment in  handling  has  made  it  of 
value  in  certain  cheap  cloths;  that  is, 
the  cost  of  applying  makes  it  pos- 
sible to  obtain  a  high  enough  price  to 
warrant  the  process.  The  reason  why 
longer  staple  cotton  is  used  in  many 
cases  is  because  less  twist  can  be  ap- 
plitd  to  the  yarn  and  still  have  enough 
strength  to  make  the  yarn  usable. 
Longer  staple  cotton  produces  strong- 
er yarn,  because  of  the  greater  num- 
ber of  contact  or  friction  points  when 
it  is  spun.  The  small  amount  of  twist 
is  desirable  in  mercerization  because 
it  allows  the  fibres  to  lie  more  nearly 
parallel  with  a  consequently  higher 
luster.    The  increase  of  twist  crinkles 


the  fibre,  and  because  the  fibres  ar« 
not  straight,  decreases  the  luster. 

METHOD  OF  MAKING  PATTERN. 

In  this  identical  cloth,  the  pattern 
is  produced  in  the  following  manner: 
The  black  warp  and  black  filling  yarn 
weave  plain  throughout  the  whole  fab- 
ric. Of  course,  this  cloth  has  to  be 
woven  on  a  jacquard  box  loom,  for 
two  kinds  of  filling  are  used.  This 
box-loom  motion  introduces  two  picks 
of  black  yarn  and  then  two  picks  of 
mercerized  yarn.  When  the  figure  is 
to  be  produced,  the  mercerized  yarn 
is  allowed  to  float  and  does  not  weave 
in  with  the  black  warp  yarn.  There 
is  one  point  which  is  worthy  of  note, 
and  which  is  probably  done  to  allow 
the  mercerized  <illing  to  spread  ?.s 
much  as  possible,  and  this  is  that  one 
pick  of  black  is  placed  in  the  same 
shade  with  the  mercerized  yarn,  ex- 
cepting where  the  figure  is  being 
woven.  The  mercerized  yarn  is  wo- 
ven two  picks  in  a  shade,  and  this 
process  makes  two  picks  of  mercer- 
ized yarn  and  one  pick  of  black  yarn 
in  a  shade  together,  excepting  where 
the  figure  is  formed.  It  is  also  prob- 
ably true  that  this  cloth  was  woven 
face  down  in  the  loom,  as  by  means 
of  this  process  fewer  hooks  in  the  jac- 
quard head  are  raised,  and  a  better 
weaving  job  results.  To  produce  the 
effect  noted  in  the  finished  cloth  there 
is  employed  a  shearing  process  which 
clips  off  the  floats  of  mercerized  yam 
which  have  been  woven  for  the  fig- 
iirp-  ti^rt  is,  instepcl  of  having  the 
cloth  effect  formed  by  the  floats  of 
mercerized  yarn,  it  is  formed  by  the 
black  warp  and  filling  which  remain, 
and  which  have  been  woven  plainly 
underneath  the  mercerized  filling  fig- 
ure. It  will  be  seen  that  this  shearing 
process  has  not  clipped  off  all  of  the 
filling  floats.  It  is  always  a  problem 
to  make  figures  of  this  nature  in  this 
kind  of  fabric  which  can  be  sheared 
successfully,  although  the  problem  is 
much  easier  w'th  filling  floats  than  it 
Is  with  waT-n  floats.  Tn  very  fpw  clothr 
are  the  results  entirelv  satisfactory 
unlPSR  the  iPTierth  of  floats  is  from  one- 
nuarter  to  three-eiphths  of  an  inch  In 
length,  and  even  then.  It  often  hap- 
pens that  threads  are  left  on  the  cloth. 


300 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Of  course,  the  result  obtained  Is  many 
times  a  question  of  price,  for  cloths 
can  be  sheared  very  closely  Indeed 
when  the  cloth  price  is  of  little  conse- 
quence, but  when  a  cheap  fabric  is  be- 
ing considered,  an  excessive  price  for 
the  shearing  operation  would  not  be 
warranted  by  the  selling  prices  ob- 
tained. 

COST  OF  MAKING. 

It  is  a  quite  well-known  fact  that 
the  cost  of  making  any  kind  of  nov- 
elty fabric  will  vary  greatly.  In  the 
first  place,  many  makers  have  to  pur- 
chase their  entire  supply  of  yarn  when 
a  special  cloth  is  to  be  made.  Then, 
too,  certain  mills  can  make  ordinary 


Its  to  the  cloth  maker.  Retailers  do 
surely  obtain  a  much  larger  percent- 
age of  profit  on  all  kinds  of  drapery 
fabrics  than  they  do  on  many  kinds  of 
dress  fabrics.  This  is  claimed  to  be 
necessary  because  of  the  small  turn- 
over in  the  sale  of  such  materials,  but 
both  cloth  makers  and  cloth  users  of- 
ten comment  on  the  prices  for  fabrics 
of  this  character.  One  interesting 
item  is  that  it  is  sometimes  possible 
to  purchase  cloth  of  practically  identi- 
cal construction  but  sold  in  two  differ- 
ent departments  of  the  same  store  and 
at  radically  different  prices,  and  this 
will  tend  to  prove  that  selling  methods 
do  have  a  great  deal  of  influence  on 
the    prices    to    consumers,    and    they 


PATTERN. 
2  2 

40/1  Am.   combed  black       —       1,748       —     =  1.748    ends. 

10  10 

70/1    Am.   combed   black    ] 

>     Filling,   60   picks   total   per  inch. 
20/2    Eg.    combed   gold        J 

24  reed.    36"  width  In  reed,    34%"  wide,  finished. 
50    X    60   finished   count. 

YARNS. 

Labor,  waste. 
Cotton.  dyeing,  etc, 

40/1  Am.  combed  black,       l%"sta. ;      8  hank  dou.  rov.,  ISc.  24v4c.  =      42  ^c 

70/1  Am.  combed  black,       l%"sta. ;   14  hank  dou.  rov.,  24c.  33  Vic  =      57  Vie 

20/2  Eg.    combed  gold,         l%"sta.;      4  hank  dou.  rov.,  26c.  24V4c.  =      50^4c. 

COST. 

1.748  ends  40/1   Am.   combed   +    5%    take-up   =   .0547    (a)    42i^c =    $  .0233 

30  picks  70/1    Am.   combed                                           =    .01S3    @    O7V2C =  .0105 

30  picks  20/2   Eg.   combed                                         =   .1286    @    SO'Ac =  .0646 

Weaving    .0190 

Expenses     .0198 

Shearing,    etc .0025 


Yards   per   pound,    4.96. 
Retail  price,   39c.  per  yard. 

dyed  yarn  but  have  no  apparatus  for 
mercerizing.  Due  to  such  conditions, 
it  is  very  likely  that  the  cost  of  ma- 
terials makes  the  profit  obtained  by 
various  manufacturers  of  widely  dif- 
ferent amounts,  even  if  a  good  price 
be  obtained  for  the  cloth.  One  other 
reason  why  the  cost  of  making  such 
cloths  will  vary  is  because  of  the  com- 
paratively small  size  of  orders  re- 
ceived, when  compared  with  many 
other  cotton  fabrics,  and  because  most 
of  the  above  lines  are  not  regular 
ones,  they  are  likely  to  be  made  in 
small  mills  where  the  costs  of  pro- 
duction are  naturally  high.  Prices 
are,  for  the  foregoing  reasons,  natu- 
rally steep  for  such  fabrics  when  first 
sold,  but  this  is  a  natural  condition, 
and  may  not  allow  any  excessive  prof- 


$  .1397 


have  to  be  considered  In  the  distribu- 
tion of  merchandise. 

JACQUARD  PATTERNS. 

That  every  kind  of  cloth  can  be 
treated  in  a  method  which  might  be 
called  different  is  not  often  realized 
in  the  cloth  trade.  Take  this  individ- 
ual cloth,  for  example,  and  it  can  be 
seen  that  the  painting  of  the  jacquard 
design  can  be  made  much  simpler 
than  it  would  appear  at  first  glance. 
It  will  be  noted  that  the  ground  or 
black  yarn  weaves  plain  continually, 
so  that  for  all  the  black  filling  only 
two  different  jacquard  cards  are  nec- 
essary, as  each  two  following  black 
picks  are  duplicates  of  the  preceding 
two.  Because  of  the  above  reason, 
the  cards  for  all  the  black  picks  can 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


801 


be  cut  on  a  repeater  and  in  a  much 
shorter  time  than  if  done  on  the  or- 
dinary card  cutter.  Not  only  can  the 
above  process  be  adopted  and  these 
cards  be  introduced  into  their  correct 
positions  before  the  card  set  is  laced 
up,  but,  in  addition,  the  design  can  be 
laid  out  and  painted,  taking  account 
only  of  the  mercerized  filling  yarn. 
The  design  paper  should  be  planned 
to  apply  correctly  when  this  is  done, 
but  it  is  one  of  the  means  of  reducing 
the  cost.  With  the  correct  method, 
it  is  not  even  necessary  to  have  the 
weave  painted  on  the  mercerized  yarn 
ground,  but  the  result  can  be  produced 
by  merely  painting  in  the  places 
where  the  filling  floats  or  figure  are 
produced.  Methods  of  saving  time  in 
the  painting  of  jacquard  designs  are 
in  use  in  many  forms,  and  these  meth- 
ods will  vary  according  to  the  work 
being  done.  The  adaptability  of  the 
man  producing  the  work  is  of  much 
influence  in  the  easiest  method  being 
obtained,  but  unquestionably  all  the 
processes  used  do  greatly  help  in  low- 
ering the  cost. 

To  find  the  weights  of  the  yarn  and 
the  yards  per  pound  the  process  is  as 
follows : 

1.748   ends   -i-    (840    X    40/1)    =  .0520.    weight 

of    warp    wltbout    take-up. 
5%   take-un   In  weaving. 
.0520    -4-    .95    =    .0547,    total   weight    of    warp 

per   yard   of   woven   cloth. 
30  picks  X  36"  width  in  reed  X  36" 

;; =■■      1.080 

yards    of   filling    (both    70/1    and    20/2). 
1,080    -=-     (840    X     70/1)     =    .0183.    weight    of 

70/1    filling    per   vard    of    cloth. 
1,080    H-     (840     X     20/2)     =    .1286.    weight    of 

20/2   filling    per   yard    of   cloth. 
.0547    +    .0183    -f     1286    =   .2016,   total  weight 

per    yard. 
1.0000    -T-   .2016    =    4.96   yards  per  pound. 

•-»-♦ 


SILK  MIXTURE  MARQUISETTE 

This  class  of  fabric  has  quite  a  gen- 
eral use  and  although  not  so  large  as 
many  of  the  ordinary  cloths,  still  it  is 
of  importance  in  clotn  sales.  Espe- 
cially has  this  been  true  during  the 
past  few  years,  when  light  materials 
have  been  iis^d  as  ovprdr'^'sses  find 
for  other  purposes,  which  add  to  the 
attractiveness  in  the  finished  garment. 
It  is  probable  that  most  of  this  cloth 
is   made  wholly  from   siik  yarn,   but 


it  is  also  manufactured  from  silk  and 
cotton  and  entirely  from  cotton.  To 
make  the  open  work  desirable  it  is 
necessary  to  use  yarns  of  small  diam- 
eter, this  being  one  of  the  reasons  why 
silk  is  used  and  why  most  of  the  cot- 
ton cloths  are  of  fine  or  comparatively 
fine  yarns.  In  few  cases  is  there  any 
great  attempt  to  finish  the  fabric  so 
that  there  will  be  a  large  amount  of 
luster,  the 

MAIN  PURPOSE 

being  to  obtain  an  open  effect  with 
a  comparatively  firm  texture,  that  is, 
one  which  does  not  slip  badly.  Be- 
cause the  yarns  are  so  fine  and  the 
count  of  the  cloth  so  low,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  a  weave  much  different 
than  that  employed  on  most  of  the 
ordinary  fabrics  sold.  This  weaye  is 
generally  called  gauze  and  is  the  sim- 
plest form  of  leno  weave  used. 

Inasmuch  as  the  cloth  analyzed 
takes  the  place  of  some  of  the  more 
expensive  articles,  and  because  it  has 
developed  a  field  which  neither  all  silk 
nor  all  cotton  fills,  it  may  be  well  to 
consider  it  in  some  detail.  A  few 
years  ago  quite  large  quantities  of 
similar  fabrics  were  made  and  sold, 
but  they  were  generallv  dyed  solid 
colors,  while  to-day  fabrics  are  ap- 
pearing which  have  printed  patterns 
and  which  undoubtedly  will  have  a 
large  use  because  of  their  attractive 
appearance.  Of  course,  it  is  admitted 
that  the  cloth  as  a  fabric  is  not  of 
much  value,  excepting  when  used  with 
othpr  niaterials,  and  thus  the  sale  de- 
pends a  great  deal  on  style,  much 
more  so  than  when  other  fabrics  are 
considered,  but  style  to-day  is  of  large 
influence  in  the  use  of  any  cloth,  in 
fart,  many  believe  it  has  more  to  do 
with  successful  operation  and  satis- 
factory proflts  than  any  other  one 
item. 

CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 

As  previously  stated,  the  weave  is 
what  is  called  plain  erauze.  or,  where 
one  thread  crosses  first  to  one  side 
and  then  to  the  other  side  of  another 
thread,  usually  called  the  ground 
thread.  This  process  of  weaving  does 
not  result  in  the  threads  lying  parallel 
as  in  most  cloths,  but  the  threads 
twist  around  each  other  and  through 


302 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


this  twisting  the  filling  is  held  tightly  of  different  sizes,  but,  inasmuch  as 
and  the  warp  does  not  slip  even  both  threads  are  che  same  size  and 
though  there  are  no  threads  along-  twist  around  each  other,  their  take- 
side  to  hold  them  in.  ups  and  weaving  are  similar.  It  is, 
Cloth  of  this  character  is  produced  however,  necessary  to  place  the  sel- 
in  different  ways,  sometimes  the  or-  vage  ends  on  a  separate  beam  or 
dinary  leno  motion  with  doups  is  em-  spool,  because  these  ends  do  not  take 


Silk   Mixture   IVlarquisette. 


ployed  with  operation  from  the  bot- 
tom, while  at  other  times  special 
reeds  are  used,  and  it  is  also  possible 
to  use  patented  heddles  which  oper- 
ate in  a  manner  similar  to  the  doups 
ordinarily  seen.  It  is  not  necessary  to 
place  the  crossing  and  ground  threads 
on  different  beams,  as  is  done  in  most 
kinds  of  leno  wcrk  where  changes  are 
not  regular  and  where  the  yarns  are 


up  in  as  great  amounts  as  the  ground 
part  of  the  fabric. 

The  weaving  take-up  is  generally 
small,  because  the  yarns  are  fine  and 
they  do  not  have  to  bend  very  much 
through  the  introduction  of  the  filling. 

ANOTHER  FEATURE 

which  has  to   be  considered   in   plan- 
ning  any   kind    of   an    all-over   leno 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


303 


Cloth  is  that  comparatively  few  picks 
can  be  placed  in  the  fabric.  This  is 
not  because  the  filling  yarn  fills  the 
spaces  available,  but  because  the  warp 
threads  take  up  a  great  deal  of  room 
in  crossing  back  and  forth,  and  for  a 
certain  size  of  yarn  only  a  certain 
number  of  crossings  can  be  made. 
For  the  above  reason  the  actual  cloth 
construction  should  be  worked  out  at 
the  mill,  a  few  picks  too  low  will  pro- 
duce a  cloth  which  will  slip,  while  a 
few  picks  too  many  will  cause  a  bad 
weaving  job  and  a  large  number  of 
seconds.  Much  of  the  cloth  made 
some  time  ago  was  woven  with  60-2 
warp  and  two-thread  32-38  Tussah 
filling.  Because  of  the  rubbing  and 
strain  on  the  yarn,  it  is  customary  to 
use  two-ply  warp  of  rather  fine  char- 
acter. Too  many  picks  of  light  silk 
filling  are  objectionable  in  that  the 
fabric  will  not  hold  them,  and  the 
beating  up  of  the  reed  is  likely  to  cut 
them,  making  small  places  in  the 
cloth,  which  appear  as  if  the  leno  mo- 
tion does  not  operate,  and  naturally 
very  many  of  such  places  will  create 
a  second. 

WEAVING. 

Even  to  anyone  not  f^mTiar  with 
cloths  or  the  making  of  them,  the 
weaving  of  such  a  fabric  would  be  ex- 
pected to  be  the  item  of  greatest  in- 
terest not  only  because  the  fabric  is 
different  but  because  of  a  different 
method  of  producing.  In  the  first 
place,  it  is  easy  enough  to  note  that 
the  two  threads  cross  every  pick  to 
form  the  effect  produced  and  that  the 
whole  fabric  is  nothing  more  nor  less 
than  the  repetition  of  weave  noted  on 
these  two  threads.  This  can  be  seen 
from  the  illustration  which  we  pre- 
sent. The  leno  or  crossing  threads 
are  in  solid  color,  while  the  ground 
threads  are  made  of  vertical  lines  and 
the  filling  is  represented  by  the  twill 
lines. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  fabric 
ground  does  not  weave  together  at 
all,  for  the  ground  threads  are  always 
depressed  and  the  filling  threads  al- 
ways pass  over  the  top,  the  only  way 
the  threads  are  held  together  being 
through  the  crossing  back  and  forth 
of  the  leno  threads.  Of  course,  the 
leno  and   ground  threads   cross   each 


other  and,  inasmuch  as  the  take-up 
on  both  of  them  is  the  same,  they 
twist  around  each  other  in  a  similar 
manner,  although  for  purposes  of 
clearness  we  have  not  indicated  them 
in  this  manner.  The  crossing  thread 
is  always  on  the  top  shed  when  the 
filling  is  introduced,  while  the  ground 
thread  is  always  depressed.  To  show 
how  this  above  result  is  accomplished 
on  the  loom  may  not  be  so  easy,  al- 
though by  referring  to  the  illustra- 
tion the  process  may  be  observed. 
The  threads  are  first  drawn  through 
heddles  on  harnesses  just  as  if  ordi- 
nary plain  cloth  were  to  be  made,  the 
first  thread  on  the  first  harness  and 
the  second  thread  on  the  second  har- 
ness, this  operation  being  repeated 
until  the  whole  warp  is  drawn  in. 

There  is,  however,  in  front  of  these 
two  harnesses  a 

REGULAR  HARNESS 

containing  heddles,  and  also  another 
slip  harness  containing  no  heddles. 
From  the  base  of  the  first  or  slip  har- 
ness are  cords  which  pass  up  and 
through  the  eyes  of  the  second  harness 
heddles.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  when 
the  first  harness  or  slip  is  raised,  the 
cords  are  free  to  slide  through  the 
heddle  eyes  of  the  second,  while, 
when  the  second  is  raised,  the  first 
is  raised  with  it,  because  of  the  doups 
being  through  the  eyes.  Of  course, 
if  operated  in  this  manner,  there  will 
be  quite  a  strain  on  the  cords,  so  an 
arrangement  is  usually  made  where- 
by the  first  harness  is  always  raised 
when  the  second  is,  though  the  first 
can  be  raised  when  the  second  is  not. 
One  of  the  threads  which  has  already 
been  drawn  on  the  back  harness  is 
again  drawn  through  the  cord  loop 
which  goes  through  the  heddle  eye, 
and  when  this  has  been  done  the 
other  or  ground  thread  is  crossed, 
over.  The  whole  warp  is  then  reeded 
and  is  now  ready  for  the  loom, 
although  it  must  be  recognized  that 
crossing  and  ground  threads  must  be 
drawn  in  the  same  dent  in  the  reed  or 
they  will  not  operate. 

OPERATION   SIMPLE. 

The  operation  of  the  loom  is  simple 
and   is    as   follows:    When     the   back 


304 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


harness  is  raised  the  front  harness,  or 
the  one  containing  the  cords,  is  also 
raised,  and  the  threads  pull  the  cords 
through  the  heddle  eyes,  thus  lifting 
the  crossing  thread  on  one  side  of  the 
ground  thread.  At  the  same  time  the 
harness  containing  the  ground  thread 
is  left  down  and  the  filling  passes 
over  this  portion  of  the  warp.  On  the 
next  pick  the  back  harness,  which  was 
raised  on  the  first  pick,  is  left  down, 
together  with  the  harness  containing 
the  ground  warp;  in  other  words,  the 
whole  warp  is  down  as  far  as  the  plain 
back  harnesses  are  concerned,  but  the 
first  and  second  harnesses  are  raised, 
and,  because  the  loop  is  held  tightly 
in  the  heddle  eye,  the  crossing  thread 
is  pulled  around  to  the  other  side  of 
the  ground  thread,  thus  bringing  the 
opposite  position  from  that  noted  on 
the  previous  pick.  These  two  opera- 
tions are  continued  throughout  the 
cloth.  To  make  the  weaving  easier 
and  to  relieve  the  strain  on  the  yarn,  a 
motion  is  applied  to  the  back  of  the 
loom  which  lets  off  a  certain  amount 
of  yam  when  the  crossing  is  taking 
place,  but  which  pulls  back  the  extra 
yarn  when  it  is  unnecessary. 

A  great  deal  of  the  success  obtained 
when  making  a  leno  or  gauze  fabric 
depends  upon  the  care  with  which  the 
loom  is  set.  Not  only  will  the  percent- 
age of  production  be  higher,  together 
with  a  smaller  number  of  seconds  if 
care  be  exercised,  but  the  cords  or 
doups  in  the  crossing  motion  will 
wear  much  longer  and  will  make  the 
cost  of  production  less.  Even  at  best, 
these  cords  wear  out  quite  rapidly 
Another  item  which  needs  attention 
is  to  see  that  all  the  reeds  used  are 
in  perfect  condition,  for  if  there  be  a 
few  crooked  dents,  this  will  cause  an 
open  place  in  the  cloth  with  the  warp 
thread  spaced  irregularly,  and  which 
effect  cannot  be  eradicated  when  the 
cloth  is  finished. 

LOOMS  OPERATED. 

The  question  of  operatives  and  pro- 
duction is  one  which  requires  much 
consideration  when  such  a  cloth  is  to 
be  woven.  As  will  be  seen  from  the 
analysis,  the  weaving  cost  is  high,  and 
it  forms  a  much  larger  share  of  the 
total  cost  than    is    the    case  on  most 


fabrics.  Anything  which  will  permit 
an  increased  production  should  be 
tried,  or  it  might  be  well  to  increase 
the  looms  per  weaver,  even  if  the 
percentage  or  production  decreases 
somewhat,  but  this  is  not  a  good  plan 
if  the  number  of  seconds  increases 
radically.  As  style  is  responsible  for 
a  great  portion  of  the  use  of  such 
cloth,  the  quality  made  is  largely  in- 
strumental in  bringing  good  prices, 
and,  therefore,  this  should  be  kept  as 
high  as  possible.  To  show  how  much 
the  cost  is  affected  by  the  production, 
it  can  be  said  that  a  5  per  cent  in- 
crease in  loom  production  will  mean 
a  saving  of  45  cents  a  yard  in  the 
cost,  or  a  saving  of  9  1-3  cents  a 
pound  in  the  cloth.  Of  this  saving 
35  cents  a  yard  will  be  on  the  weaving 
alone,  and,  besides,  with  a  greater 
production,  a  smaller  amount  per  yard 
is  needed  for  dividends.  In  other 
words,  a  5  per  cent  increase  will  mean 
a  saving  of  over  $1  a  loom  per  week 
and,  with  100  looms  operating,  would 
be  the  same  as  saving  the  wages  of 
more  than  10  men  at  $10  a  week.  Just 
how  far  some  of  the  cost  systems  in 
use  are  fundamentally  wrong  is  illus- 
trated well  by  the  cloth  being  con- 
sidered. 

It  often  happens  that  to  obtain  the 
total  cost  a  certain  percentage  is  add- 
ed to  the  weaving  cost  to  obtain  the 
expense  cost.  This  method  may  give 
fairly  satisfactory  results  where  con- 
structions do  not  change  much  and 
where  looms  per  operative  do  not 
vary  widely,  but  where  constructions, 
yarns  and  methods  of  making  are  rad- 
ically different  for  each  fabric,  the 
cost  of  making  obtained  in  such  a 
manner  is  obviously  incorrect.  The 
expenses  per  loom  in  most  mills  do 
not  vary  so  widely  as  the  cost  of 
weaving,  mainly  because  the  expense 
items  per  loom  are  many  of  them 
fixed,  while  the  percentage  of  produc- 
tion per  loom  and  the  looms  per  op- 
erative may  be  radically  different  on 
the  various  styles.  The  loom  speed 
for  leno  cloth  is  not  so  high  as  it  is 
for  many  other  fancy  woven  fabrics; 
for  it  is  necessary  to  have  more  time 
for  the  threads  to  cross  satisfactorily. 
Even  with  this  slower  speed  the  per- 
centage of  loom  production  will  be 
lower  than  it  is  on  most  fancy  woven 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


806 


fabrics  and  radically  lower  than  it  Is 
on  plain  cloths. 

PLANNING  PRODUCTION. 

Inasmuch  as  this  kind  of  cloth  is 
most  always  produced  in  cotton  mills, 
and  as  long  as  the  yardage  produced 
from  a  pound  of  cotton  is  large,  cer- 
tain problems  have  to  be  considered 
when  orders  are  taken.  If  a  mill  is 
planned  to  make  the  yarns  used  in 
weaving,  and  most  of  them  are,  it  will 


losing  money  when  standing  idle. 
If  cloth  prices  are  to  be  made  with 
this  machinery  standing  idle  therp 
should  be  sufficient  leeway  to  permit 
of  a  satisfactory  profit  on  all  of  the 
machines  in  the  plant.  Of  course, 
quite  a  few  mills  sell  yarn  when  their 
looms  are  operating  on  novelty  fab- 
rics for  which  yarn  must  be  pur- 
chased, or  in  which  little  material  is 
required.  This  can  be  done  success- 
fully if  the  styles  do  not  change  rap- 


i 


:ii 


aR 


^  y>zoy:<^  ^^^x^  ^(XMy^  6^^a^j:^a^a 


■llll^  ^^■■lilln.  1 


i^   %5ji««  5^^%%  yA^A^/:fy.   ryyAoyjyj 

"^k^^iiiiBBi^^iin —   


^A^Af/:&:fA  v/yjyjyA  '^yjyA^A  YjVjy/yA   ^ 


■iir 


■lilir  ilHllir 


r  Mmw  ^iiiHHr  ^iiimr  ^iiii 
^.   ^AC^^yyA  v/yjy/yA   'oyj:yAC^.   y/yAoy/y/. 

~k  ^IIUHl  ^IIIHHl  ^IIIIHIk   ^llll 


fl 


Flhhm 


Weave. 


be  evident  that  when  such  cloths  are 
being  produced  the  spinning  and  ac- 
cessory machinery,  or  a  large  portion 
of  it,  will  be  standing  idle.  Some  do 
not  consider  this  yarn  making  machin- 
ery when  they  are  considering  profits, 
but  it  is  very  evident  that  profits  will 
ni:t  be  so  large  as  they  have  been  fig- 
ured, because  the  preparatory  machin- 
ery expense  will  have  to  be  carried  Ijy 
the  looms,  for  instead  of  the  spinning 
and  other  machinery  making  a  profit, 
or  even  operating  at  cost,  it  wiU  be 


idly,  for  prices  on  sale  yarn  can  be 
made  as  low  as  cost,  and  even 
then  a  mill  is  at  some  advantage  be- 
cause tfte  organization  is  being  held 
together.  The  selling  of  cloths  which 
ke.^p  all  or  nearly  all  of  a  mill's  ma- 
chinery in  operation  requires  a  great 
deal  of  judgment  and  is  on^  of  the 
items  which,  up  to  the  present  time, 
has  been  neglected,  but  better  train- 
ing and  more  accurate  records  are 
making  the  problem  much  simpler 
than  it  was,  and  without  doubt  this 


306 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


policy  is  saving  money  for  some  mills  many  printed  warp  fabrics  which 
making  novelty  cloths.  are  often  produced  In  silk  and  at  cer- 

METHOD  OP  FINISHING.  '-,■;  r^sValirfrpurpose  when  fia- 
There  is  nothing  in  the  finishing  of  ishing  such  fabrics  to  have  a  large 
such  a  fabric  as  tiiat  aaaiyzeJ  winch  share  of  the  ground  c  ot[i  v.  ith  plj.iQ 
is  particularly  troublesome,  excepting  effects,  so  that  the  underdress  may  be 
that  the  cloth  is  of  rather  light  weight  partially  visible,  the  patterns  being 
and  not  very  strong,  and,  therefora,  added  more  for  attractiveness  in  gen- 
must  be  handled  carefully.  As  the  eral  effects  than  for  any  otuer  pur- 
cloth  is  composed  of  silk  and  cotton,  pose.  Few  realize  the  number  of 
it  must  be  bleached  in  the  usual  meth-  high  quality  fabrics  now  being  pro- 
od  employed  for  the  combinations  of  duced  in  domestic  mills  and  the 
these  materials.  Wlien  the  fabric  has  adaptability  which  is  being  used  in 
been  bleached  it  is  sometimes  dyed  a  making   them   desirable   from   a   con- 

PATTERN. 
100/2   Sea   Island  combed  1,408  =     1,408 

2  2 

100/2   Sea   Island   combed       —  ■ —     =128 

32  32  

1,536  total  ends. 
14/16   2  thread  Canton  silk  filling,   44   picks. 

60  reed,    29"   width   in   reed,    26"   grey   width.    25%"   finished   width. 
58    X    44    ground  count  linished. 

YARNS. 

Labor.  Twist- 

Cotton,   waste,  etc.  ing. 

100/2  Sea  Island  combed.  1%"  sta.;  20  hank  dou.  rov.,  32c.  42c.  8c.      =   $  .82 

14/16  2  thread  silk,   140,000   yards  per  lb.,   on  quills,  ==     3.75 

COST. 

1,408    ends   100/2    Sea   Island   combed +    7%   take-up   =   .0360    @    $  .82     =    $  .0295 

128    ends   100/2   Sea    Island    combed -f-    2%    take-up   =   .0031    @        .82      =       .0026 

44    picks   14/16    2    thread    Canton ==   .0091    (g)      3.75      =        .0341 

Weaving    .0534 

Expenses    .0140 

$  .1336 
Selling    .0027 

$  .1363 

Mill    selling    price,    (about) .1525 

Finishing,    printing,    etc .0300 

Converter's   cost    (without  expenses) $  .1825 

Price  to  retailer   (about) $  .2600 

Price   to   consumer    .3800 

AH  over  leno   weave,   changing  every   pick. 

Yards  per  pound,    20.75    (grey). 

solid  color  with  a  dyestuff  which  re-  sumers'  standpoint.  It  is  such  im- 
quires  only  one  bath,  while  at  other  provement  and  adaptability  which  is 
times  it  is  dyed  in  two  colors,  and  going  to  make  the  future  of  the  do- 
through  the  means  of  two  processes,  mestic  industry  certain,  and  when 
the  silk  being  dyed  with  one  kind  of  consideration  is  given  to  the  amount 
color  while  the  cotton  remains  white,  of  progress  made  during  tlie  past  five 
and  a  subsequent  process  makes  the  years  the  situation  is  truly  one  in 
cotton  the  desired  color.  The  fabric  which  domestic  sellers  may  well  take 
we  have  considered  has  been  bleached,  pride. 

but  instead  of  being  dyed,  it  is  printed,  p.  p.T,„  .j^„  „       _ 

the   patterns  being  no   different  than  ^..i^uiH  WJiiiLrHlb. 

those  applied  ordinarily  to  lieht   cot-  Fabrics  such  as  that  considered  are 

tons,  or  silk  and  cottons  used  for  dress  usually  sold  by  the  mill  in  a  grey  or 

purposes.    The  colors  are  usually  light  unfinished    state,    that    is,    they    are 

shades,  and  because  of  the  open  work  made     f  grey    or    unbleached    cotton, 

of  the  fabric  the  effect  is  rather  sub-  and   the   cloth   appearance    is,    many 

dued,  appearing  somewhat  similar  to  times,  nothing  like  that  which  it  Is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


307 


when  sold  over  the  counter.  For  this 
reason  the  weights  and  yarns  are  giv- 
en in  their  grey  state.  Take  the  warp 
in  this  cloth,  and  without  doubt  the 
size  when  used  was  100-2,  but  as  it 
stands  in  the  finished  cloth,  the  size 
is  nearer  110-2.  This  finer  size  comes 
Irom  the  handling  and  fulling  of  tho 
cloth  and  from  washing  and  bleach- 
ing. The  silk  filling  used  was  prob- 
ably two-thread  14-16  Canton  silk. 
We  havo  used  in  our  analysis  a  yard- 
age of  140,000  for  this  silk,  although 
this  is  not  the  theorptic  '1  yardage, 
but  is  one  which  is  somewhat  lower, 
and  is  a  sort  of  protection  to  the  cloth 
maker  for  variation  in  size.  It  must 
be  remembered  that  when  the  cloth 
is  bleached  and  boiled  out  this 
silk  will  lose  a  varying  amount 
through  Tops  of  gum.  the  loss  differ- 
ing according  to  conditions  of  finish- 
ing, though  it  is  probable  the  per- 
cent? ge  wouH  be  from  15  to 
20  per  cent.  Wlien  the  yarn  sizes 
have  been  obtained  and  the  take-up  in 
weaving  noted,  the  problem  of  finding 
the  weights  of  the  yarn,  and  from 
these  weights  the  yards  per  pound,  is 
easily  accomplished,  and  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

1,408  ends  -h    (100/2   X    840)    =   .0335,   weight 

of  ground   warp   without  take-up. 
7  9r    talce-up  in   weaving. 
.0335     -T-     .93     =     .0360,     total     ground    warp 

weight    per    vnrd    of    c'oth. 
128   ends   -4-    (100/2    X    840)    =    .0030,    weight 

of    selvage    yarn    without    take-up. 
2%    tnke-up    in    weaving. 
.0030    -i-    .98    =    .0031.    total    selvage    weight 

per   vfird    of   c!oth 
44  picks  X  29"  reed  width  X  36" 

— =   1.276  yds. 

36" 

of    firing   per   yard   of   cloth. 
1,276     -V-     140.000     yards    silk     =     .0091.     total 

weight    of    filling    per    yard    of    cloth. 
.0360    -I-   .0031    -f    .0091    =  .0482.   total    weight 

per    vard. 
1.0000    -t-   .0482   =    20.75   yards  per  pound. 


SILK  MIXTURE  BROCADE 

There  has  been  a  great  deal  of  in- 
terest during  the  past  year  or  more 
regarding  the  sale  of  fabrics  compos- 
ed of  silk  and  cotton.  Various  causes 
contributed  to  a  large  slumn  In  the 
purchasing  of  these  cloths  during  the 
past  year,  and  while  many  believed 
there  was  to  be  only  a  small  demand 
for  them  some  time,  a  great  many 
others     were     convinced     that     such 


cloths  when  made  In  good  quality 
would  have  a  good  sale.  It  can  be 
said  that  fabrics  of  this  character  are 
available  for  certain  uses,  and  that 
they  fill  a  place  which  neither  all  cot- 
ton nor  all  silk  can.  This  results  from 
the  fact  that  material  wholly  made  of 
silk  is  rather  expensive  and  when  fab- 
rics are  made  entirely  of  cotton  they 
do  not  have  the  effect  desired  by  a 
great  many  consumers,  therefore  the 
combination  of  materials  makes  a 
cloth  which  offers  quite  a  good  deal  of 
value  and  an  effect  which  many  times 
would  be  considered  as  being  produced 
from  silk  entirely.  Naturally,  the 
large  majority  of  such  materials  are 
rather  light  in  weight  and  they  are 
I' sad  for  dresses,  waists  and  almost 
any  other  purpose  where  a  light  cloth 
is  suitable  and  where  a  great  deal  of 
hard  wear  is  not  encountered. 

REGARDING  DEVELOPMENT. 

Fabrics  made  of  these  materials  are 
liable  to  be  very  ragged  looking  if  the 
construction  is  poor,  and  this  is  the 
main  reason  why  there  was  a  slack- 
ening in  demand.  There  is  no  reason 
wh  thpre  should  not  he  a  continued 
and  satisfactory  demand  for  fabrics  of 
this  natvre,  ?nd  without  douht  the  next 
few  years  will  see  a  good  many  of 
them  used. 

Inasmuch  as  these  cloths  Lave  not 
been  made  and  sold  in  large  quanti- 
ties for  any  length  of  time,  it  may 
be  well  to  state  a  few  facts  regarding 
their  making.  In  a  general  way  it  can 
be  said  that  the  large  use  of  fabrics 
of  this  character  has  grown  during  the 
past  tpn  ypnrs.  plthm'eh  th"v  were 
manufactured  nuite  a  while  before  this 
time.  When  first  produced  the  combi- 
nations were  of  rather  unknown  quan- 
tity and  the  results  not  always  satis- 
fai-tory,  hut  in  time  beautiful  results 
were  produced.  It  is  only  within  the 
past  five  years  that  the  cloth  finishing 
process  has  improved  to  such  a  great 
ex*^ent  as  it  has.  Of  course,  before 
this  time  the  cloth  was  finished  in  a 
satisfactory  manner,  but  the  anpear- 
f,-nr>Q  ha^  been  greatly  improved  since 
that  time. 

PRICES  WERE  HIGH. 

When  these  fabrics  were  first  pro- 
duced the  prices  were  very  high   at 


308 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


retail,  probably  because  of  their  simi- 
larity to  sillc  fabrics.  At  that  time  it 
was  possible  to  see  fabrics  of  this 
character  selling  at  anywhere  from 
75  cents  to  one  dollar  or  even  more 
per  yard,  and  which  can  now  be  pur- 
chased at  from  25  to  35  cents  per  yard. 
This  has  come  about  largely  because 
of  the  greater  amount  of  competition 
in  the  making  of  such  cloths,  for 
there  has  been  a  big  increase  in  com- 
petition in  the  domestic  market  during 
the  past  ten  years  on  fine  and  fancy 
fabrics.  In  some  clasi:?  of  these  ma- 
terials silk  is  uced  for  the  v.arp  yam 


ordinarily  either  14-16  two-thread 
Canton  or  else  22-26  single  Canton. 
'liie  latter  size  silk  is  somewhat  finer 
than  the  former  and  is  used  in  the 
cheaper  grade  of  material.  The  fore- 
going stateirents  do  not  mean  that 
other  silks  are  not  used  in  making 
silk  and  cotton  mixtures,  but  by  far 
the  largest  quantities  are  the  silks 
named. 

PERCENTAGE  OF  PRODUCTION. 

Fabrics  of  this  character  are  made 
in  well-equipped  mills,  as  a  usual 
thing.     That  is,  they  have  looms  that 


Silk  Mixture  Brocade. 


and  cotton  for  the  filling  yarn,  while 
In  other  instances  cotton  warp  is  used 
together  with  siik  filling.  In  the  first 
class  of  fabrics  are  silk  and  cotton  eo- 
liennes,  poplins,  crepes  and  some 
other  materials,  while  in  the  second 
class  are  the  so-called  Canton  silks 
of  various  kinds. 

When  silk  warp  is  used  it  is  the  cus- 
tom to  use  Italian  silk  for  the  warp. 
The  size  of  yarn  used  will  vary  some- 
what, dppendinsr  I'nnn  the  conH'tin^R  in 
the  different  mills,  some  mills"  being 
able  to  use  finer  yarns  than  others,  al- 
though the  variation  is  comparatively 
small.    When  silk  filling  is  used  it  is 


can  handle  silk  and  fine  cotton  yarns, 
for  it  is  generally  necessary  to  use  fine 
cotton  in  combination  with  silk  to  give 
a  fabric  which  is  suitable.  A  great 
many  manufacturers  were  afraid  to  go 
into  the  use  of  silk,  because  they 
thought  it  would  create  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  in  weaving.  Continued  at- 
tempts have  proved  that  such  was  not 
the  case,  because  in  a  majority  of  the 
instances  a  greater  percentage  of  pro- 
duction is  obtained  than  if  a  whole 
cotton  ("lo+h  were  heinar  madp  In  fab- 
rics which  are  of  good  quality  and 
made  by  combinations  of  these  mate- 
rials  it  is  usually  the  case  that  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


30$ 


silk  costs  win  about  equal  one-half 
the  total  cost  of  the  cloth,  including 
the  labor  and  cotton  yarn  charges  and 
expenses.  The  effects  which  can  be 
produced  are  many  times  very  beauti- 
ful, and  the  silk  tends  to  bring  out  the 
weave  to  a  greater  extent  than  if  cot- 
ton alone  were  used. 

The  percentage  of  production  will 
depend  a  great  deal  on  circumstances, 
but  under  the  right  conditions  no 
trouble  should  be  experienced.  If  the 
reel's  -'re  poor  and  silk  warp  is  being 
used  the  roughness  will  rub  the  yarn 
and  cause  many  breakages,  besides 
making  an  uneven  cloth.  It  is  also 
true  that  rough  heddles  or  cracked 
heddle  eyes  will  cause  breakages  in 
the  warp  if  silk  be  used.  Because 
of  the  fineness  of  the  silk  filling  it  is 
not  so  necessary  to  change  bobbins 
as  if  cotton  yarn  were  being  used  for 
rough  filling.  In  most  instances  the 
filling  Is  purchased  on  quills  and 
ready  to  use  in  the  shuttle,  although 
there  are  mills  which  purchase  the 
silk  on  spools  and  quill  it  themselves. 

THE  ORGANIZATION. 

One  of  the  most  important,  if  not 
the  most  important,  item  in  connec- 
tion with  making  cloth  cf  this  charac- 
ter is  the  relation  which  t'le  produc- 
tion bears  to  the  machinery  equip- 
ment in  the  mill.  It  would  be  a 
rather  foolish  process  to  have  a  mill 
entirely  equipped  for  producing  cot- 
ton cloth  and  then  to  start  in  making 
fabrics  of  this  nature  and  have  quite 
a  large  share  of  the  machinery  idle 
as  a  result.  Some  mills  when  mak- 
ing cloth  of  this  nature  sell  yam, 
and  this  keeps  their  extra  machinery 
In  operation,  and  while  sometimes  not 
returning  a  profit  it  keeps  the  organ- 
ization at  the  mill  intact,  or  until 
cotton  cloths  are  more  desirable. 
Cases  have  been  known  where  yam 
production  was  sold  and  where  mix- 
ture novelties  were  woven  to  take 
care  of  the  looms  and  keep  the  weav- 
ers. Prices  were  made  in  this  in- 
stance at  low  levels  to  obtain  a  suf- 
ficient nuantity  of  orders. 

Silk  mills  object  to  selling  silk  on 
spools  in  some  cases,  largely  because 
<f  t»ie  pi'k  is  soli  in  this  manner  It 
ke^T>s  their  filling  machinery  idle 
and  their  organization  is  planned  to 


produce  the  silk  on  quills.  Of 
course,  if  the  profit  in  making  cloth 
of  this  character  is  high  enough  to 
warrant  the  carrying  of  the  overhead 
charges  when  the  rest  of  the  plant  is 
idle  it  is  a  different  proposition,  but 
there  is  always  the  item  of  keeping 
in  touch  with  customers  and  keeping 
operatives  employed,  and  that  these 
are  of  great  importance  is  being 
shown  very  clearly  in  to-day's  manu- 
facturing. 

LOOMS  USED. 

Inasmuch  as  these  cloths  represent 
some  of  the  finest  productions  in  the 
domestic  market,  it  can  be  said  that 
they  are  made  in  the  newer  and  bet- 
ter equipped  plants.  In  a  general  way 
these  fabrics  are  made  on  dobby  and 
jacquard  looms,  although  there  are 
quite  a  good  many  which  are  pro- 
duced on  plain  looms.  Many  of  the 
dobby  patterns  are  made  on  looms 
which  operate  up  to  24  harnesses,  and 
probably  most  of  the  jacquard  pat- 
terns are  made  on  either  400  or  600 
head  machines.  This  does  not  signify 
that  the  count  of  these  machines  is 
the  same  in  very  many  instances, 
because  the  tie-up  will  vary.  ]\Tost 
of  these  jacquard  looms  were  install- 
ed to  make  shirting  materials  and 
in  few  cases  is  the  tie-up  per  inch 
over  120,  while  in  many  instances, 
it  is  lower  than  this  amount. 

Probably  the  largest  amount  of 
cloth  produced  with  any  one  warp 
count  is  that  made  with  a  count  of  96 
threads,  and  the  number  of  picks  will 
vary,  depending  on  the  price  paid  and 
other  conditions.  As  a  usual  thing 
when  the  warp  count  is  the  above 
amount,  the  size  of  yarn  used  is  60-1. 
Fabrics  wherein  silk  is  ueed  for  warp 
or  filling  arp  gpnerally  of  narrow  width, 
although  during  the  past  year  or  so 
there  has  been  an  increase  in  the 
amount  of  wider  cloths  made.  It  may 
be  well  to  make  mention  of  the  fact 
that  most  of  the  ground  weaves 
where  patterns  are  made  are  plain 
weaves.  This  is  done  beoanse  it  makes 
a  firmer  ground  and  makes  it  less 
necessary  to  have  a  high  count.  As 
there  is  a  large  sale  at  present  for 
silk  brocades  there  has  been  a  line  of 
fabrics  brought  out  to  imitate  them, 
which     are     called     silk      and      cot- 


810 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ton  brocades.  These  have  a  satin 
ground  in  which  the  filling  floats,  giv- 
ing an  appearance  very  similar  to 
many  all-silk  fabrics.  Because  the 
ground  weave  is  satin  it  is  necessary 
to  have  the  cloth  count  higher  than 
if  the  cloth  weave  is  plain.  This  will 
be  noted  when  it  is  pointed  out  that 
the  count  on  this  fabric  is  112  x  116 
in  the  grey  state.  The  weaves  used 
are  very  simple,  although  the  effect  is 
quite  striking,  due  to  the  contrasting 
colors. 

CLOTHS  DETAILS. 

The  fabric  we  have  analyzed  is  of 
course  made  on  a  jacquard  machine, 
and  it  may  be  well  to  give  a  few  facts 
regarding  its  construction.  The  loom 
on  which  this  cloth  was  made  is  call- 
ed a  400-jacou?rd.  In  this  machine 
there  are  eight  hooks  in  a  row  and 
50  rows  in  the  head.  Without  doubt 
It  was  made  on  a  double  lift  machine 
which  contains  actually  800  hooks,  but 
there  are  two  hooks  which  operate 
on  each  neck  cord  and  which  allow 
the  loom  to  be  operated  at  a  faster 
speed  than  wonid  othp^^iso  b""  pos- 
sible. Even  though  there  are  800 
hooks  in  the  machine  it  actually 
worVp  as  a  400-heTl.  T'h"  r.-f>i-h'nM 
is  tied  up  In  the  comber  board  120 
threads  per  Inch,  giving  3  1-3  inches, 
the  width  of  the  tie-up  in  the  comber 
board : 


400 


120   =   3%".    width   of   tie-up. 


In  making  this  cloth  a  .54-reed  was 
undoubtedly  used.  This  P'ives  the  num- 
ber of  dents  in  the  reed  as  180: 

64   reed    X    3%"   =    ISO   dents. 

180   dents    X    2    ends    In    a    dent    =    SfiO    ends 

In    the   repeat,    or   360   hooks    to    use. 
400  hooks  —  360  hooks  =  40  hooks  cast  out. 
40    hooks    -4-    8    hooks    In    a    row    =    5    rows 

cast   out. 

There  are  various  methods  of  cast- 
ing out  hooks  not  used  in  making  a 
cloth,  but  where  there  are  so  few 
cast  out  as  in  the  present,  instance  it 
does  not  make  very  much  difference 
where  they  are  cast  out,  although 
it  can  be  s^M  th^t  it  is  h-^^ter  to  c  s"^ 
out  more  than  two  or  three  rows  in 
any  one  place,  and  to  make  it  more 
convenient  in  cutting  the  cards  it  is 
better  to  cast  them  out  at  the  end 
of  each  half  machine,  that  is,  to  cast 


out  the  24th  and  25th  row  in  the  first 
half  of  the  machine,  and  the  48th, 
49th  and  50th  rows  in  the  last  half, 
of  the  machine. 

There  is  another  item  which  some- 
times is  of  importance,  but  which  in 
this  cloth  makes  li'tle  difference.  This 
relates  to  the  spacing  of  the  warp  in 
the  comber  board.  To  make  a  warp 
run  as  well  as  possible  it  is  always 
best  to  balance  the  cloth  in  the  ma- 
chine. Inasmuch  as  there  are  2,876 
ends  in  the  v.arp,  not  inc^i  img  the 
selvage,  as  these  are  operated  sepa- 
rately from  the  main  warp,  the  proc- 
ess is  as  follows: 

2.876   -^    rco  ends  in   the  repeat   =   7   sections 
+    3.^6    ends. 

Assuming  that  the  jacquard  is  tied 
up  40  inches  wide  this  gives  12  sec- 
tions at  3  1-3  inches  each.  Then  we 
have 

12   sections  —    (7   sections    4-    356   ends)    =   4 
sections    4-    4    ends. 

Therefore,  to  space  the  warp  in  the 
proper  position  two  sections  and  two 
ends  could  be  left  out  on  each  side  of 
the  warp,  or,  in  other  words,  if  the 
warp  be  started  on  the  second  hook 
in  the  third  section  the  spacing 
would  be  as  nearly  correct  as  pos- 
sible. NaturaHy,  the  warp  would  end 
up  two  hooks  before  the  last  hook  to 
be  used  on  the  tenth  section.  As 
stated  previously,  this  does  not  make 
very  much  difference  when  the  pat- 
terno  pre  al!-ovpr  nnps.  bnt  where 
stripes  are  used,  either  in  color  or  in 
the  white  state,  patterns  should  be 
balanced  as  carefully  as  thev  are  when 
making  dobby   patterns.     This  is  not 

sometimes  an  aid  in  selling  the  cloth, 
as  it  gives  a  better  balanced  appear- 
ance. 

DESIGN  MAKING. 

For  all  patterns  similar  to  that  used 
on  the  sample  analyzed  it  is  neces- 
sTv  to  make  up  a  .iacuard  design. 
This  is  done  in  a  number  of  methods 
to  su't  the  ne'^ds  of  the  situation,  but 
the  usual  m'-thod  is  as  foPows:  In 
the  fi'-st  Place  a  cloth  sketch  is  made 
UP  with  the  fieures  pain'ed  so  as  to 
show  the  effect  desired  when  finished. 
This  cloth  sketch  represents  the  de- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


811 


sign  in  the  finished  cloth  rnd  is  usu- 
ally made  the  width  of  the  finished 
pattern.  From  this  cloth  sketch  the 
design  is  enlarged  and  placed  on  de- 
sign or  point  paper.  This  is  done  by 
enlargement.  In  the  first  place  the  de- 
sign for  this  floth  would  be  ru'ed  up 
iuro  45  squpre  inches  in  the  warp  di- 
rection, eacn  small  square  represeiit- 
ing  one  large  square  in  the  design 
paper,  and  when  this  has  been  done 
the  outlines  of  the  patterns  are 
transferred.  The  design  paper  is  usu- 
ally made  to  correspond  with  the 
cloth  count,  but  each  square  in  the 
warp  must  be  ruled  off  in  eighths  to 
correspond  with  the  eight  hooks  in  a 
row  wliich  the  machine  contains. 

When  the  outline  hss  i:ee:i  trans- 
ferred the  weave  is  painted  in  either 
by  the  one  who  transfers  the  pat- 
tern or  by  another  party.  This  is 
not  a  very  intricate  process  on  such 
a  cloth  as  the  one  analyzed,  although 
the  effect  depends  somewhat  on  the 
carefulness  employed  in  making  the 
various  weaves  join.  It  is,  however, 
a  tedious  undertaking  and  consumes 
quite  a  little  time.  Sometimes  where 
satin  weave  grounds  are  employed 
the  design  paper  already  has  a  satin 
weave  dotted  in,  and  this  makes  it 
unnecessary  to  paint  in  the  ground 
weave.  When  the  design  has  beei. 
paiKted  in,  it  Is  ei "en  to  th"  carl  rut- 
ter.  This  operative  cuts  the  weave 
upon  a  card,  which  operates  the 
hooks  of  the  jacquard  head.  Each 
card  represents  one  pick,  and  ea?h 
square  in  the  design  paper  represents 
one  hook  in  the  machine,  and  each 
large  square  in  the  design  paper  rep- 
resents one  row  in 

THE  JACQUARD  HEAD. 
When  the  cards  are  all  cut  the 
number  is  equal  to  the  number  of 
picks  of  the  pattern  as  painted.  These 
cards  are  taken  to  a  r^rrl  la^^in?^  ma- 
chine. This  machine  laces  them  to- 
gether in  a  continuous  manner,  so 
that  they  follow  one  another  on  the 
cylinder  of  tho  jacquard  head  when 
in  operation.  This  completes  the  proc- 
ess and  the  operation  of  the  hooks 
in  the  machine  by  the  cards  as  punch- 
ed will  produce  the  pattern.  This 
sample  set  of  cards  is  usually  oper- 
ated in  producing  a  sample  piece  of 


cloth.  When  an  order  Is  obtained  It 
is  customary  to  use  quite  a  number 
of  looms  in  making  and  this  necessi- 
tates a  number  of  sets  of  cards,  one  for 
each  loom.  These  are  produced  on 
what  is  called  a  card  repeater.  This 
machine  is  no  more  nor  less  than  a 
card  cutting  machine  on  wliicli  the 
sample  set  of  cards  are  placed  and 
wherein  a  whole  duplicate  card  is 
cut  at  once  instead  of  cutting  a  row 
at  once,  as  is  done  on  the  original 
card  cutter,  and  this  saves  quite  a 
little  time  and  lowers  the  cost.  These 
machines  are  practically  always  used 
when  mills  are  of  any  size. 

METHODS  OF  FINISHING. 

It  may  be  well  to  mention  the  fact 
that  the  finishing  of  these  silk  and 
cotton  cloths  has  improved  quite  a 
good  deal  in  the  last  few  years,  and 
this  mj.kes  them  all  the  more  desir- 
able in  their  field.  Of  late  it  has  be- 
come a  general  practice  to  use  fast 
colored  cotton  yarn  for  making 
stripes,  cords,  and  checks,  and  these 
additions  improve  the  cloth  appear- 
ance a  great  deal  and  make  a  larger 
sale  possible.  Before  fast  colors  were 
in  use  colors  could  not  be  used  to  any 
extent,  because  practically  all  these 
cloths  are  woven  In  the  grey  and 
bleached  after  the  cloth  Is  woven. 
There  are  very  many  methods  of  fin- 
ishing these  fabrics.  Probably  most 
of  them  are  dyed  In  solid  colors, 
these  colors  changing  from  season  to 
season,  depending  on  the  demand. 
They  are  also  finished  In  a  white  state, 
and  some  seasons  they  are  sold  with 
various  printed  patterns  upon  them, 
which  in  many  cases  add  to 
their  attractiveness  and  aid  In  the 
sale.  These  cloths  are  also  cross 
dvofi.  This  is  possible  because  silk 
and  cotton  can  be  dyed  in  different 
methods.  Certain  colors  which  are 
attracted  to  cotton  will  not  affect  silk, 
i\v'\  ''i>e  versa. 

In  this  manner  it  is  possible  to  dye 
cotton  one  color  and  silk  another,  or 
it  is  possible  to  dye  cotton  one  color 
and  leave  the  silk  In  a  pure  white 
ptr>  +  p  Th's  ha«  hcpn  done  with  th° 
samnle  analyzed.  The  cotton  has  been 
dyed  black  while  the  silk  remains 
white,  making  the  two  yarns  show  a 
great  contrast.    This  process  Is  being 


312 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


adopted  not  only  In  silk  and  cotton 
tabrics,  where  there  is  all-silk  warp 
or  filling,  but  also  where  there  are 
stripes  or  checks  in  silk,  sucu  as  voiles 
and  poplins.  Without  doubt,  the  in- 
crease in  ingenuity  in  methods  of 
making  cloth  attractive  by  the  finish- 
ing and  dyeing  processes  has  had 
much  to  do  with  the  increase  in  sale 
of  high-class  novelty  tabrics. 

CLOTH  AND  YARN  WEIGHTS. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  know  the 
process  for  obtaining  the  weight  of 
the  yarns  and  of  the  cloth.  The 
weight  as  figured  is  for  the  cloth  as 
it  comes  from  the  loom  and  not  for 
it  in  a  finished  state.  When  finished 
the  cloth  is  quite  a  good  deal  lighter 
than  when  woven.  This  occurs  be- 
cause the  warp  yarn  loses  in  the  fin- 
ishing process,  and  the  silk  filling 
loses  a  certain  percentage  of  gum 
which  it  contained  when  it  is  used  in 
the  loom.  The  yardage  of  the  silk 
as  used  is  not  that  which  might  be 


called  theoretical,  but  it  Is  one  which 
is  used  as  a  protection  against  varia- 
tion in  size  by  the  manufacturer,  and 
is  most  always  somewhat  heavier 
than  the  yarn  is  likely  to  be.  Inas- 
much as  the  silk  filling  yarn  cost  is 
such  a  large  percentage  of  the  total 
cloth  cost,  any  great  variation  in  the 
price  of  this  material  will  affect 
that  of  the  cloth  quite  a  little.  The 
price  we  have  given  was  the  market 
price  at  one  time,  but  it  has  been  in- 
creasing quite  rapidly.  The  method 
of  finding  the  various  weights  is  as 
follows: 


2.956    ends    -f-    (60/1    X    840)     =    .0586.    warn 

weight   without   take-up. 
4%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0586    -^-     .96     =    .0610.    total    weight    of    60/1 

in    1    vard    of   woven    cloth. 
116  picks  X  27"  reed  width  X  36" 

=       3.132 

36" 

vards   of  filling  per   yard   of  cloth. 
3.132     -^     140.000    yards    =    .0224.    weight    of 

silk   filling   per  yard   of  cloth. 
.0610     +     .0224     =     .0834,     total     weight     per 

vard. 
1.0000    -j-    .0834    =    11.99    yards   per    pound. 


PATTERN. 
60/1   Am.   combed  warp.    2,956  ends. 
14/16   2-thread  Canton  silk  filling.   116  picks. 

54    reed,    27"   width  In   reed,    26"   grev   width,    25%"    finished   width. 
112    X    116,  grey   count.    113    X    112.   finished  count. 

YARNS. 

Cotton. 
60/1  Am.  combed.  1%"  sta.;  12  hank  dou.  rov.,  24c. 

14/16   2-thread  Canton  silk,    140,000  yards  per  lb.,    on   quills 


Labor,  waste,  etc. 

levic.  =   40i^c. 

=      $3.65 


COST. 

2.956    ends    60/1    Am.  combed  +  4%  take-up  =   .0610    @    40y.c =  J   .0247 

116  picks  14/16   2-thread  Canton  silk            =   .0224    @     $3.65 =  .0818 

Weaving    .0204 

Expenses     .0278 

Jacquard   cards    .0021 

$   .1568 
Selling   .0031 

$   .1599 

Price   to   converter    (about) .1700 

Finishing,    etc .0250 

Cost  to  converter   $  .1950 

Price  to  retailer    (about) $  .2750 

Price  to  consumer,   40c. 

Yards   per   pound,    11.99    (grey). 

«»  «  » 

nTArnUllT    WUAVT?    TITDDV  growth  and    has    taken    quite  a  time 

UlAuUlliiL    HMVIj    llilllll  to  become  as  large  as  it  is.  for  it  has 

ni  Amn  affected  all  materials  to  a  greater  or 

CLOTH  ^®^^  extent.     Few  have  realized  until 

v*^  recently  just  how  large  this  use  has 

During  the  past    year    or    so    there  been,  but  the  recent  showings  of  new 

has  been  a  great  increase  in  the  num-  fabrics  for  next  summer's  use  by  the 

ber  of  novelty  fabrics  of  various  de-  laree  retailers  have  only  s'^rved  to  ac- 

scriptions   which  have  been  used  for  centuate  the    situation.     Most   of   the 

dress   goods.     This   use  has   been   a  fabrics  which  have  a  run  as  large  as 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


313 


eponge,  and  this  Includes  all  the 
cloths  of  a  similar  nature,  have  to  be 
made  better  or  different  continually 
until  there  Is  no  longer  a  sale  for 
them. 

When  these  cloths  wore  first  pro- 
duced, anything  which  had  a  sem- 
blance of  novelty  yarn  in  its  construc- 
tion was  sold  and  at  a  high  profit, 
but  as  time  went  on,  more  of  such 
cloths  were  sold  and  the  prices  were 
less  reasonable,  and  to  make  the  fab- 
rics attractive  they  had  to  be  made 
in    patterns    or   in    combination    with 


the  other  one.  It  can  be  said  that 
the  cloth  analyzed  shows  as  great  a 
difference  between  the  cost  of  mak- 
ing and  the  retail  selling  price  as 
any  fabric  which  has  been  seen  in 
years.  That  retailers  expect  quite  a 
large  sale  is  shown  by  the  large  quan- 
tity and  the  varied  colorings  which 
they  are  offering  on  this  fabric.  The 
cloth  has  a  very  attractive  appear- 
ance and  is  well  made,  and  the  col- 
ors are  the  ones  which  should  have 
a  sale,  but  the  price  of  the  cloth 
shows  as  high  a  profit  from  its  style 


Diagonal   Weave  Terry   Cloth. 


other  good  selling  materials.  Most 
of  the  cloths  which  are  now  being 
shown  contain  novelty  yarns,  but  they 
are  used  in  some  kind  of  a  pattern 
with  other  cloths,  such  as  crepes  and 
voiles,  or  dyed  In  such  a  manner  that 
they  show  quite  a  radical  difference 
over  those  formerly  sola. 

One  fabric  which  shows  a  combina- 
tion of  ideas  is  the  one  which  we 
have  illustrated.  This  fabric  contains 
the  terry  cloth  idea  and  is  made  in  a 
better  constructed  fabric  than  Is 
usually  seen,  and  inas^  "ch  as  diae:- 
onals  in  the  cut  form  have  been  in 
large  demand  in  woolen  fabrics,  this 
cloth  contains  this  idea  together  with 


exclusiveness,  and  as  little  profit  from 
its  actual  cloth  value,  as  an/  which 
have  appeared  recently. 

CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 

In  many  respects  this  fabric  is  no 
different  from  the  ones  used  for  ordi- 
nary Turkish  towels.  The  yarns  are 
of  somewhat  different  sizes  and  the 
cloth  construction  is  changed  so  as 
to  be  more  suitable  for  dress  goods, 
l^ut  the  general  e^ect  is  that  seen  in 
the  above-named  fabrics.  Combed 
varns  have  been  used  in  the  cloth,  and 
the  ripht  combinations  of  yarns  and 
the  correct  amount  of  tw'st  have  been 


314 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


given  to  produc*^  a  cloth  which  has 
the  soft  feel  noted  in  the  fabric  an- 
alyzed. 

Terry  cloths  are,  ordinarily,  pro- 
duceu  on  special  looms,  which  can 
make  them  easily  and  cheaply,  but 
this  cloth  was  not  made  in  this  man- 
ner. In  making  an  ordinary  towel, 
the  weave  is  such  that  a  loose  warp 
is  bound  into  the  threads,  and  by  an 
arrangement  of  the  reed  or  warp  an 
open  space  is  left  in  the  fabric,  and 
then  the  few  picks,  together  with  ex- 
tra yarn,  are  pushed  on  into  the  cloth, 
making  the  loops  ordinarily  noted. 
The  same  general  idea  i.as  been  used 
in  making  this  cloth,  excepting  that 
a  different  loom  is  used  in  weaving, 
one  which  weaves  a  wire  into  the 
cloth  over  which  the  loops  pass  and 
then  the  wire  is  drawn  out,  leaving 
the  loops  fast  in  the  fabric.  This 
method  of  weaving  makes  a  some- 
what tetter  fabric  and  can  be  distin- 
guished easily  by  examining  the 
cloth  carefully. 

On  an  ordinary  terry  cloth  the  loop 
will  be  forced  to  that  side  of  the  clotn 
necessary  through  the  uiUcg  under- 
neath it,  that  is,  a  loop  will  not  go 
down  through  the  fabric  if  the  filling 
underneath  forces  it  to  the  face.  In 
this  cloth  the  picks,  which  are  wires, 
are  designated  on  the  right  hand  side 
of  the  design,  and  wh°re  the  loons 
are  on  the  face  are  indicated  by  the 
squares  being  filled  in.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  the  loop  yarn  is  on  the 
back  of  the  cloth,  both  before  and 
after  the  loop  is  formed,  and  unless 
held  up  by  the  weaving  of  wire,  or 
In  some  other  similar  method,  the 
loop  would  go,  if  made  in  the  ordi- 
nary terry  manner,  to  the  back  of  the 
fabric.  The  twill  or  diagonal  is 
formed  by  having  one  thread  out  of 
four  in  the  loop  yarn  remain  down 
in  successive  stens  across  the  fabric. 
The  take-up  on  this  loop  ycrn  varies 
a  great  deal  when  fancy  figures  are 
being  woven,  and,  therefore,  each 
thread  often  has  to  have  a  different 
spool  or  holder.  This  policy  is  taken 
when  Tnaking  carnets,  and  this  fabric 
Is  no  different  from  many  carpet  fab- 
rics, pxcenting  th^t  the  wpave  is  very 
simnle  in  comnarison,  and  because 
the  weave  is  simple  the  loon  yarn  can 
be  placed  on  a  single  beam,  or,  if  a 


single  beam    causes  trouble,    at  most 
only  four  loop  beams  are  necessary. 

WEAVE. 

It  will  be  noted  that  the  ground 
yarn,  that  is,  the  warp  which  forms 
the  base  of  the  fabric,  and  the  filling 
which  weaves  in  with  it  are  of  com- 
paratively fine  sizes  in  comparison 
with  the  loop  yarn.  This  is  done  so 
as  to  give  a  rather  heavy  appearing 
face  with  rather  stiff  loops  and  the 
full  effect  which  is  so  desirable.  As 
we  have  previously  stated,  the  lines 
to  t  he  right  of  the  design  indicate 
where  wires  are  placed  in  the  cloth, 
which  are  afterward  removed,  while 
the  lines  at  the  top  of  the  design  in- 
dicate which  threads  are  the  loop 
yarn.  This  yari.  is  drawn  in  two-ply 
and  is  equal  to  ordinary  6-1.  It  will 
be  noticed  that  the  ground  threads 
and  picks  all  weave  plain.  There  are 
three  threads  be'ween  each  thread  of 
loop  yarn,  and  if  the  loop  yarn  is  re- 
moved from  the  fabric  it  will  be  found 
that  absolutely  nothing  remains  but 
plain  cloth  composed  of  35-1  warp  and 
40-1  filling,  although,  of  course,  there 
will  be  open  spaces  where  the  loop 
yarn  was  removed.  The  weave,  how- 
ever, will  join  and  be  the  ordinary 
plain  fabric. 

So  far  as  the  actual  we^ve  in  the 
cloth  is  concerned,  if  it  be  picked 
out,  it  will  be  that  with  the  fourth, 
eighth,  12th  and  16th  nicks  in  our 
weave  removed,  for  in  the  cloth  as  It 
stands  there  is  no  pick  underneath 
this  loop  and,  therefore,  it  would  not 
appear.  To  produce  this  fabric  the 
number  of  harnesses  needed  will  be 
comparatively  few,  because  the 
ground  is  nothing  but  plain  weave  and 
would  take  onlv  four  harnesses,  while 
the  loop  threads  repeat  on  four  har- 
nesses, thus  the  fabric  could  be  pro- 
duced on  an  ordinary  dobby  attach- 
ment. 

An  effect  very  similar  to  this  idea 
might  be  produced  on  an  ordinary 
towel  loom  if  the  same  construction 
we^e  nsp'l.  a^thon^'h  *'^°  w^ave  wni^ld 
have  to  be  slightly  different  t*^  throw 
the  loons  onto  the  surface  in  the  same 
positions  as  thosf»  noted  on  the  cloth 
analyzed.  Possibly,  the  resulting  ef- 
fect might  not  be  quite   so  satisfac- 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


816 


tory,  but  It  would  be  so  near  the  one 
analyzed  that  the  ordinary  consumer 
could  hardly  det  ct  the  difference,  es- 
pecially if  intelligence  were  used  in 
getting  up  the  cloth  construction. 
CLOTH  PRICU:. 

We  have  already  made  mention  of 
the  cost  of  production  and  the  pres- 
ent selling  price,  and  have  stated 
that  the  difference  between  the  cost 
and  the  selling  price  is  about  as  wide 
as  ever  noted.  As  any  fabric  cost  is 
based  fundamentally  on  the  yarn 
prices,  an  ordinary  mill  would  not 
have  a  cost  for  yarn  differing  very 
much  from  that  which  we  have  given. 
In  our  weaving  cost  and  expenses  we 
huve  used  coutervative  amounts  and 
ones  \\:hich  should  be  noted  on  mak- 
ing a  cloth  of  this  character.  The 
looms  per  weaver  are  fewer,  the  loom 
speed  in  picks  per  minute  is  less, 
while  the  percentage  of  production  is 
somewhat  smaller  than  for  ordinary 
fabrics,  although  it  should  be  higher 
than  for  most,  if  not  practically  all 
of  the  fabrics  made  in  which  wires 
are  used.  Then,  in  addition  to  the 
above  facts,  is  the  one  that  the  picks 
per  inch  are  actually  quite  a  little 
higher  than  the  number  given  in  our 
analysis  would  indicate,  due  to  the 
placing  of  wires  in  the  cloth. 

All  these  facts  have  been  consid- 
ered in  arriving  at  the  price  for  weav- 
ing and  expenses.  In  no  case  sliould 
the  total  cost  of  making  in  the  grey 
state  be  over  21  or  22  cents,  even  if 
made  in  very  small  quantities  and  in 
an  extravagant  manner.  The  cost  of 
finishing  should  also  be  comparatively 
small,  because  many  ordinary  towel- 
ing fabrics  which  have  been  blef.ched, 
dyed  and  sold  recently  in  thi  domestic 
market  have  been  finished  for  less 
than  2  cents  per  yard,  and  it  is  un- 
likely that  this  fabric  costs  much  more 
than  this  amount,  although  we  have 
been  conservative  in  the  amount  add- 
ed for  fnishine. 

Even  if  a  tnill  sold  this  fabric  in 
the  grey  state  for  25  cents  per  yard, 
a  very  large  profit  would  be  secured, 
because  the  total  number  of  picks  is 
comparatively  smTll  and  the  loom  pro- 
duction in  yards  must  be  quite  large. 
The  fabric  was  probably  sold  in  the 
grey  state  and  finislied  by  a  converter, 
because   it   is   a  piece-dyed  fabric. 


Without    any    question,    the    retail 

selling  price  un  this  fabric  is  at  least 
from  10  to  12  times  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction, including  the  dyeing  and  fin- 
ishing and  cloth  makers'  profits. 
Such  a  fabric  as  this,  and  one  show- 
ing as  great  a  difference  between  cost 
of  making  and  selling  price,  can  be 
produced  in  other  methods  than  by  the 
use  of  wires  or  on  the  terry  cloth 
principals. 

This  fabric  can  easily  be  woven  on 
an  ordinary  dobby  loom.  Whenever  a 
loop  is  desired,  a  heavy  silk  cord  can 
be  introduced  into  the  cloth,  and 
then,  before  the  cloth  is  finished  and 
dyed,  it  can  be  run  into  a  bath  of 
caustic,  and  this  silk  yarn  will  be 
eaten  out,  leaving  the  loops  in  a  sim- 
ilar manner  to  those  noted  in  the 
cloth  analyzed.  Silk  for  this  purpose, 
if  used  in  a  labric  constructed  as  that 
analyzed,  would  not  cost  over  20 
cents  per  yard,  and,  what  is  more,  the 
weaving  price  per  yard,  if  silk  were 
used  in  this  manner  on  an  ordinary 
dobby  loom,  would  be  likely  to  be  less 
than  the  amount  we  have  allowed  for 
the  weaving  price  for  this  cloth.  Of 
course,  silk  could  not  be  used  if  the 
retail  price  and  other  selling  prices 
were  not  so  high,  but  without  doubt 
for  50  cents  per  yard  this  fabric  could 
be  made  in  just  as  satisfactory  a  man- 
ner as  the  one  considered  and  show 
quite  a  little  profit  to  the  manufactur- 
er. Another  method  would  be  to  use 
a  smooth  cotton  yarn  and  a  rather 
loose  tension  on  the  loop  yarn  warp, 
and  when  the  cloth  was  woven  to  have 
operatives  pull  out  the  cotton  threads 
which  held  up  the  loops. 

Even  this  extra  cost  would  not 
nearly  equal  the  20  cents  per  yard, 
if  silk  were  used  to  make  the  loops. 
This  is  one  subject  which  the 

AMERICAN  MANUFACTURER 

has  entirely  neglected  in  the  march  of 
progress.  He  does  not  feel  Inclined  to 
go  into  the  making  of  novelty  cloth  to 
as  great  an  extent  as  the  European 
manufacturers  and  confines  himself  to 
the  fabrics  which  can  be  produced  In 
large  quantities,  making  his  profits 
through  Vr.e  small  profits  per  yard  on 
large  quantities  rather  than  on  the 
large  profits  per  yard  on  small 
quantities. 


316 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


The  xYinerican  cotton  cloth  industry 
has  progressed  so  rapidly  that  there 
has  been  a  decided  shortage  of  men 
capable  of  using  their  brains  in  de- 
veloping new  fabrics  which  show  a 
decided  difference  from  those  ordi- 
narily produced,  and  the  men  who 
have  this  ability  are  in  such  demand 
with  the  large  cloth  makers  that  they 
have  been  better  off  financially  to  ap- 
ply their  energy  in  this  direction, 
rather  than  in  working  for  themselves 
in  a  small  way.  The  time  is  coming, 
however,  when  much  of  this  work  will 
be  done  in  American  mills  by  Ameri- 
can manufacturers,  and  if  their  im- 
provement in  lowering  cost  on  ordi- 
nary plain  and  fancy  fabrics  is  to  be 
taken  as  any  indication  of  the  future, 
it  is  very  likely  that  they  will  soon  be 
beating  the  world  not  only  in  style  but 
also  in  price. 

CLOTH  WIDTHS. 

One  matter  which  deserves  notice 
is  that  concerning  the  cloth  widths  on 
imported  fancy  fabrics.  It  is  seldom 
that  the  width  of  any  imported  fancy 
cloth  is  less  than  40  inches,  and  most 
of  them  are  from  45  to  50  inches  in  the 
finished  state.  American  fancy  cloths 
are  more  often  from  25  to  28  inches 
wide  in  the  finished  state.  Of  course, 
shirtings  and  some  other  lines  are 
from  31  to  36  inches  wide  finished, 
but  they  are  not  the  so-called  fancy 
fabrics  in  many  instances.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  American  buyers  have 
been  largely  responsible  for  the  tend- 
ency which  has  developed  fancy 
cloths  in  narrow  widths,  and  set 
prices  have  probably  been  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  custom.  If  the  price  of 
making  advances  for  any  reason  in 
fancy  fabrics  is  considered  too  high, 
the  buyer  is  likely  to  ask  for  a  cloth 
of  an  inch  or  so  narrower  width,  and 
this  may  bring  it  within  his  range  of 
prices. 

We  have  often  seen  a  new  fabric 
offered  to  buyers  at  a  certain  price 
for  a  certain  width,  and  because  it 
did  not  come  within  his  price  range 
and  still  was  a  desirable  fabric,  he 
would  have  it  made  up  an  Inch  or  so 
narrower,  and  then  purchase.  All  the 
time  the  buyer  does  not  re'^lizp  tbat 
he  is  losing  money,  and  as  consumers 
have  to   purchase  the   fabrics   which 


are  offered  to  them,  they  also  do  not 
realize  that  there  is  a  large  waste  in 
economy.  This  occurs  because  most 
fancy  mills  can  make  fabrics  in  the 
grey  state  at  least  36  inches  wide,  and 
many  of  them  will  finish  about  the 
same  width.  As  a  usual  thing  the 
price  paid  for  weaving  and  the  ex- 
penses per  loom  are  no  different  per 
yard  for  a  36-inch  cloth  than  they  are 
for  a  27  or  28  inch  one. 
In  certain  mills  where 

COLORED  FABRICS 
are  woven,  there  is  a  different  scale 
of  prices  for  weaving  different 
widths  of  cloth,  but  this  generally  is 
not  true  for  grey  cloths.  Often  a 
slight  difference  in  percentage  of  pro- 
duction is  allowed  in  figuring  a  weav- 


Weave  Plan. 

er's  wages  when  a  wide  cloth  is  to  be 
woven,  but  a  buyer  will  obtain  a  36- 
inch  fabric  at  fully  25  per  cent  less 
cost  for  weaving  and  expenses  than  on 
the  narrower  fabrir^s  In  other 
words,  the  extra  cost  of  the  wider  fab- 
ric will  include  practically  nothing  but 
the  extra  cost  due  to  the  extra  ma- 
terial for  producing  the  wider  width. 
European  manufacturers  found  this 
out  quite  a  while  ago,  and  it  is  sur- 
prising that  more  American  manufac- 
turers have  not  brought  it  to  the  buy- 
ers' attention,  with  a  consequent  sav- 
ins- in  nrofits  to  themselves  and  to  con- 
sumers. 

CLOTH  WEIGHT. 
It  will  be    readily    recognized    that 
the   analysis   of   the   fabric   such    as 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


817 


the  one  considered  must  be  some- 
what different  than  that  of  ordinary 
fabrics.  In  the  first  place,  the  obtain- 
ing of  the  yarn  sizes  is  accomplished 
in  exactly  the  same  manner  as  that 
of  an  ordinary  plain  fabric.  Where 
the  difference  occurs  is  in  the  take- 
ups  on  the  various  yarns.  Of  course, 
the  loop  yarn  will  have  a  large  take- 
up,  and  the  correct  basis  for  estimat- 
ing these  take-ups  must  be  used. 
Some  sellers  are  accustomed  to  use 
a  take-up  by  adding  a  certain  per- 
centage over  100  per  cent  to  the  yarn, 
but  when  the  take-ups  are  as  large 
as  they  are  in  a  fabric  of  this  charac- 
ter, the  results  are  absolutely  incor- 
rect. The  original  length  of  the  yarn 
should  be  considered  100  per  cent, 
and  the  take-up  should  be  the  differ- 
ence between  the  original  length  and 
the    resulting    length     of    cloth    into 


35/1    Am.    combed    warp. 
24/2    Am.    combed    warp. 

50/2    Am.    combed   warp. 


which  it  is  woven.  On  such  a  basis, 
results  cannot  be  very  inaccurate,  and 
under  such  a  basis,  we  have  obtained 
the  following  results: 


2,115   ends  h-    (35/1    X    840)    =   .0719, 

of    35/1    warp   without   take-up. 
16%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0719    -H    .84    =    .0856,    total    weight 

warp    per    yard    of    cloth. 
1,408    ends   -^    (24/2    X    840)    =    .1397, 

of    24/2    warp    without    take-up. 
60%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.1397    -^    .40    =    .3492,    total    weight 

warp   per    yard    of    cloth. 
128    ends    -f-    (50/2     X     840)    =    .0061. 

of   5  0/2   warp    without   take-up. 
6%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.0061    -^    .94    =    .0065,    total    weight 

warp   per   yard    of   cloth. 
44  picks  X  48"  reed  width  X  36" 


36" 

yards  of   filling  per  yard   of  cloth. 
2,112    H-    (40/1    X    840)    =   .0629,    total 

of   40/1    filling  per   yard   of   cloth. 
.0856     -f     .3492     -f     .0065     -f     .0629     = 

total    weight    per   yard. 
1.0000     -:-     .5042     =     1.98     yards     per 

(grey). 


weight 

of    35/1 
weight 

of    24/2 
weight 

of    50/2 

2.112 

weight 

.5042, 

pound. 


2 

3 

2 

3 

2 

1 

32 

32 

40/1   Am.    combed  filling.   44   picks  per  inch. 
30  reed,   48"  width  In   reed,  •l:jV2"    finished    width. 
85    X    46    all    over   finished    count. 

TARNS 


704X 


35/1    Am.    combed   warp,    1%' 
24/2    Am.   combed   warp,    I14' 


50/2   Am.    combed   warp,    1   3-16"   sta. ;   10 
40/1   Am.    combed   warp,    lYn" 


Cotton. 

16c. 

16c. 

18c. 

sta.;      914  hank  dou.  rov.,      16c. 


sta. ; 
sta. ; 


hank  dou.  rov., 
hank  dou.  rov., 
hank  dou.  rov., 


Labor, 
waste, 

etc. 
lie. 

8%c. 
15%c. 
101^  c. 


Twist- 
ing. 


IV4C. 
2%c. 


=  27c. 

=  25%c. 

=  3614c. 

=  26V4C. 


COST. 

1,408   ends  24/2   Am.   combed- -}-    60%   take-up   =   .0856 

2,115   ends  35/1   Am.   combed -f    16%    take-up   =   .3492 

128  ends   50/2   Am.   combed -^      6%   take-up   =   .0065 

44  picks  40/1   Am.   combed =   .0629 

Weavi  ng 

Expenses 


27c. 
25%c. 

26%c. 


=  $  .0231 
=  .0899 
=  .0024 
=  .0167 
.0411 
.0214 


$  .1946 
.0040 


Selling     

Net   mill    cost    (grey) j     1986 

Bleaching,    dyeing,    etc !o300 


Finished    cost    (not    including   any    profits) 1     228fi 

Retail    price,    $3    per    yard.  ♦  .'io« 

Yards  per  pound,   1.98    (grey). 


NOVELTY  COTTON  EPONGE 

For  the  past  two  years  there  has 
been  a  large  and  increasing  demand 
for  eponge  or  fabrics  of  a  similar 
nature  not  only  those  which  are  made 
from  cotton,  but  also  those  produced 


from  wool  and  silk.  The  spring  offer- 
ings of  high-class  cotton  fabrics  con- 
tain more  variations  of  the  above 
named  cloth  than  they  do  of  any  other 
single  idea,  although  in  many  in- 
stances the  novelty  construction  is 
used  in  combination  with  other  fabrics 
to  give  style  to  them.    Because  cotton 


318 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


yarns  are  comparatively  cheap  and 
variation  in  size  can  be  obtained 
easily  so  as  to  give  good  effects,  it 
can  be  said  that  the  range  of  ideas 
being  offered  in  cotton  cloths  is  far 
wider  than  it  is  in  any  other  material. 
Yarns  made  from  wool  are  rather  ex- 
pensive and  are  usually  of  heavy  size 
and,  in  many  cases,  the  yarn  resulting 
from    the    twisting    operation    is    so 


it  may  be  well  to  present  an  analysis 
of  a  cloth  which  shows  decided  dif- 
ferences from  any  which  we  have 
formerly  treated  and  which  is  of 
quite  a  little  interest  at  the  present 
time.  The  cloth  we  have  analyzed 
is  the  cheapest,  the  best  and  one 
of  the  largest  selling,  if  not  the 
largest  selling,  of  any  shown  in 
the     whole     list     of     new     Imported 


P/.^-''. 


./J0g*-;^i^.;  :;,!^' 


V  <^i 


.  ■'! 


**.*.;l._„^ 


,.;:    -  :^j^:.. 


Novelty   Cotton    Eponge. 


heavy  that  cloth  woven  from  it  is  not 
entirely  satisfactory,  although  there 
are  a  goodly  number  of  wool  eponges 
being  sold  to-day, 

SILK  YARNS. 

Silk  yarns  have  the  fine  size  which 
is  desirable,  but  they  are  smooth  and 
slippery  and  novelty  twists  in  them 
do  not  weave  well.  Besides,  an 
eponge  fabric  is  necessarily  rather 
heavy,  so  as  to  help  in  the  general 
effect,  and  the  large  use  of  silk  in  any 
fabric  makes  the  product  rather  pro- 
hibited in  price.  It  is,  therefore, 
plain  that  in  cotton,  or  cotton  in 
combination  with  other  materials,  the 
large  sale  will  take  place  and  the 
best  effects  be  produced.  Inasmuch 
as  this  fabric  is  being  so  widely  used 


styles  for  next  spring  and  sum- 
mer wear.  When  we  say  the  cheap- 
est we  do  not  necessarily  mean  at  a 
low  price,  but  when  the  cost  of  pro- 
duction is  compared  with  the  retail 
selling  price,  and  by  the  best  we  mean 
that  the  cloth  contains  certain  novel 
features  which  place  it  in  the  van  in 
its  individual  field.  In  other  words, 
the  value  of  an  eponge  cannot  be  com- 
pared with  that  of  a  voile,  crepe,  silk 
or  other  kind  of  fabric  either  in  style 
or  selling  price. 

Different  cloth  constructions  make 
such  a  comparison  of  little  value,  al- 
though the  ratio  between  cost  of 
manufacture  and  selling  price  is 
often  interesting,  but  even  this  will 
vary,  depending  upon  market  condi- 
tions and  demand.     It  can  bo  stated 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


319 


as  a  fact  that  the  cloth  analyzed, 
which  sells  at  $1.50  a  yard,  is 
selling  at  a  very  much  lower  compara- 
tive price  to  the  cost  of  manufacture 
than  many  others  which  are  selling  at 
$3  and  over  a  yaid,  and,  without  doubt, 
this  cloth  could  be  sold  in  just  as  large 
quantity  as  is  now  noted  at  $1  cr  more 
a  yard  than  is  being  asked;  that  is,  it 
would  show  better  value  at  $2.50  a 
yaid  than  many  of  them  which  are 
now  s-elling  at  this  price.  It  contains 
certain  novel  features  which  plrce  it 
in  a  different  c'ass  from  many  others, 
it  costs  more  than  others  to  produce 
and  besides  it  is  in  style.  These  fea- 
tures should  warrant  a  higher  price 
than  is  now  being  obtained  for  it. 

EPONGE  CONSTRUCTIONS. 

In  a  general  way,  most  fabrics  of 
this  class  contain  a  very  small  num- 
ber of  threads  and  picks  per  inch, 
much  fewer  than  most  ordinary  fab- 
rics. This  is  a,  natural  condition,  be- 
cause the  novelty  yarns  which  are 
used  are  rather  coarse  in  size,  and 
the  low  count  of  the  cloth  aids  in 
giving  the  effects  desired.  It  is  often 
possible  to  use  a  much  lower  count 
in  such  fabrics  than  It  is  in  other 
classes  of  materials,  simply  because 
the  irregularity  of  the  yarn  decreases 
the  possibilities  of  slipping  and 
makes  quite  a  firm  construction.  A 
novelty  yarn  fabric  with  a  certain 
size  of  yarn  would  be  a  much  firmer 
fabric  than  a  voile  containing  the 
same  size  of  yarn  for  very  evident 
reasons.  Eponges  are  made  of  grey 
yarns,  which  are  woven,  and  then  the 
cloth  is  bleached  or  dyed.  They  are 
made  from  bleached  and  dyed  yarns, 
and  it  is  from  these  materials  that 
possibly  the  widest  variety  and  the 
best  cloth  effects  appear.  In  some 
instances,  the  cloths  are  made  from 
yarns  which  contain  stock-dyed  cot- 
ton, but  this  is  not  nearly  as  common 
a  process  as  that  wherein  the  yarns 
are  bleached  or  dyed. 

YARNS  OF  GREAT  VARIETY. 

The  yarns  which  compose  the  fab- 
rirs  prp  of  gr^pt  vpriPtv.  for  they 
are  made  from  the  diff°rpnt  materials 
In  combination,  from  different  colors 
of    the    same    or    different    sizes    of 


yarn,  and  besides,  the  yarns  are  made 
in  radically  different  methods,  such 
as  are  noted  in  corkscrew,  nub,  loop 
and  slub  in  endless  variety.  To  de- 
velop a  yarn  which  looks  well  in  the 
cloth  and  still  creates  no  great 
amount  of  trouble  in  weaving  is  by 
far  the  most  important  problem  in 
the  production  of  eponge  cloths.  It 
often  happens  that  a  yarn  can  be 
made  which  looks  well  before  it  Is 
handled  or  woven  but  which  will  not 
give  a  satisfactory  cloth.  As  a  good 
many  of  such  novelty  yarns  are  made 
by  two  twisting  operations,  the  last 
being  for  the  purpose  of  binding,  it 
is  necessary  to  have  the  right 
amount  of  twist,  or  the  effect  produc- 
ed is  not  the  best  which  it  is  possible 
to  obtain   with  the  yarns  used. 

Sometimes  special  machinery  Is 
necessary  in  the  production  of  yams 
of  this  character,  and  at  other  times 
they  can  be  successfully  made  on  an 
ordinary  spinning  frame,  although 
sometimes  this  is  impossible,  simply 
because  spinning  frames  are  not 
available,  inasmuch  as  they  are  pro- 
ducing single  yarns  and  cannot  be 
spared  even  if  the  novelty  yarns  are 
responsible  for  a  higher  profit. 

Of  course,  the  most  interesting  fea- 
ture regarding  the  fabric  analyzed  is 
that  which  relates  to  the  yarns  which 
are  used,  and  the  method  by  which 
they  are  made,  but,  in  addition  to  this 
feature,  is  the  one  that  the  cloth  con- 
tains a  pattern  which  is  made  by  the 
use  of  yarns  in  which  different  colors 
have  been  used  for  the  nubs.  The 
warp  contains  novelty  yarn  in  pat- 
terns, as  v/ill  be  noted  from  the  warp- 
ing plan  given  in  the  analysis,  and  Is 
made  from  yellow  and  black  yam  for 
nubs,  while  the  filling  contains  novelty 
yarn  on  which  all  the  nubs  Kre  blue. 
This  in  Itself  makes  a  novelty  fabric 
and  much  different  from  the  majority 
of  such  cloths. 

In  the  consideration  of  the  ndvelty 
yarn  we  will  assume  that  the  single 
y?rns  are  all  normal,  or  that 
they  are  in  no  case  different  from 
those  noted  in  ordinary  cloths. 
Through  the  spinning  operation  this 
causes  no  changes  from  those  noted 
in  an  ordinary  mill.  In  the  first  twist- 
ing operation  two  ends  of  50s-l  are 
used   as  a  ground   thread,   while    the 


320 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ll^s-1,  which  Is  delivered  by  a  sep- 
arate set  of  rolls  and  is  about  100 
per  cent  faster  than  the  50s- 1,  twists 
around  the  outside  of  the  two  ground 
threads.  Twisters  making  novelty 
yarns  always  contain  two  or  more 
sets  of  delivery  rolls,  so  as  to  feed 
the  yarns  at  the  correct  speeds. 

It  will  easily  be  seen  that  the  yarn 
produced  from  the  above  process  can- 
not be  used  in  weaving,  lor  the  heavy 
yarn  which  twists  around  the  ground 
threads  will  slip  and  be  generally  un- 
satisfactory, and,  besides,  it  will  not 
contain  the  loop  effect  so  desirable  at 
present.  To  make  this  loop  effect 
more  prominent,  this  loose  corkscrew 
yarn  is  usually  taken  and  twisted 
again  with  another  fine  yarn  but  in  the 
opposite  direction  to  that  of  the  first 
twisting  process,  and  while  this  sec- 
ond twisting  operation  binds  the  yarn 
firmly  so  that  it  can  be  woven  it  also 
makes  the  loops  quite  prominent  for 
the  untwisting  operation  and  loosens 
up  the  heavy  yarn  which  makes  the 
corkscrew.  This  is  the  process  which 
is  employed  on  many  of  the  yarns  used 
in  the  ordinary  cotton  eponges.  In  the 
yarn  which  is  used  in 

THE   CLOTH   ANALYZED 

the  second  twisting  process  shows  a 
decided  difference  from  that  noted 
in  most  cotton  eponge  yarns  and  such 
as  that  described  above.  Instead  of 
the  binding  thread  in  the  second 
twisting  operation  being  for  binding 
purposes  alone  it  is  also  used  to  form 
the  colored  nub.  This  binding  yarn 
is  of  colored  two-ply  spun  silk. 

One  advantage  noted  is  that  the 
roughness  of  the  yarn  produced  in 
the  first  twisting  operation  partially 
covers  up  the  silk  yarn  between  the 
nubs,  although  the  silk  binds  the 
loops  and  permits  satisfactory  weav- 
ing. Yam  nubs,  such  as  are  noted  in 
the  fabric  considered,  are  made  in  two 
methods,  which  might  be  called  iden- 
tical. In  one  method  both  yarns  are 
fed  by  rolls  regularly  but  at  different 
speeds,  and  a  slide  or  guide  follows 
the  ground  yarn  down  a  certain  dis- 
tance, placing  the  extra  yarn,  which, 
of  course,  forms  the  bunch,  in  one 
spot.  Often  when  such  a  machine  as 
the  one  described  is  used,  more  than 
one  color  of  yarn  is  utilized,  which  Is 


delivered  extra,  and  this  results  in  a 
number  of  nubs  of  different  colors. 

'ihe  other  method  of  production  is 
to  have  the  nub  yarn  delivered  reg- 
ularly, while  the  ground  yarn  is  de- 
livered irregularly;  that  is,  the  latter 
will  move  forward  a  short  distance 
and  then  stop,  while  a  nub  is  formed 
by  the  extra  yarn  which  runs  stead- 
ily and  then  the  ground  yarn  will 
iiiUvc;  lurunid  again,  and  the  process 
is  repeated.  In  the  yarn  used,  the 
silk  which  forms  the  nubs  has  been 
delivered  about  50  per  cent  faster 
than  the  corkscrew  yarn  which  forms 
the  base  or  ground  yarn  in  the  sec- 
ond twisting  operation.  Mercerized 
yarns  are  used  extensively  in  the 
production  of  cotton  yarns  for  use  in 
eponge,  and,  of  late,  colored  silk  is 
being  used  to  a  certain  extent.  In  a 
general  way,  carded  yarns  are  more 
widely  used  than  combed  yams,  be- 
cause their  irregularity  in  many  cases 
adds  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  fab- 
ric when  woven, 

YARN  COST. 

There  are  a  good  many  items  which 
are  likely  to  affect  the  cost  of  making 
novelty  yarns  of  any  kind.  In  the  first 
place,  the  production  is  usually  limited 
in  volume,  and  this  naturally  affects 
the  price.  In  addition  to  the  small 
quantity  made  there  is  the  cost  of  ex- 
perimentation, which  will  vary  widely 
for  different  yarns  and  which  is  not 
necessary  on  ordinary  ones.  It  Is  also 
true  that  operatives  run  fewer  spin- 
dles than  they  do  on  ordinary  work, 
and  for  this  reason,  the  actual  labor 
cost  a  pound  is  high.  While  the  op- 
eratives run  fewer  spindles  than  is 
usually  the  case,  the  production  per 
spindle  is  likely  to  be  quite  large,  for 
the  yarns  are  rather  heavy  in  size 
with  comparatively  few  turns  per  inch 
twist,  and  this  fact  makes  the  cost 
per  pound  lower  than  if  a  spindle  did 
not  produce  so  much  yam. 

Even  though  the  twisting  cost  per 
pound  and  the  price  of  the  yarns  used 
be  accurately  known,  it  is  quite  a 
problem  to  obtain  the  cost  of  the 
novelty  yarn,  because  not  only  is  there 
the  combination  of  three  or  more 
yarns  at  different  prices,  but  each 
yarn  has  a  varying  take-up  which  af- 
fects the  results  radically.    Inasmuch 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


321 


as  the  finished  yarn  sizes  3.87,  or  con-  material  cost  is  easily  obtained.    The 

tains  3,251  yards  per  pound,  this  yard-  twisting   chargcj   should   be  added   to 

age  will  form  the  basis  fcr  the  total  the  cost  of  the  material  as  found  so  as 

yarn  cost     The  to  give  a  total   novelty  yarn   cost. 

YARN  TAKE-UPS  "^^^^  weaving  of  most  kinds  of  cot- 
ton eponge  fabrics  is  a  rather  simple 

In   the   finished   novelty   yarn   are   as  proceeding.     Inasmuch    as    the    yarn 

follows:      50s-l     equals    4    per    cent,  contains  practically  all  of  tne  novelty 

ll^s-1  equals  48  per  cent  and   30s-2  features,   it  is  usually   the   custom   to 

silk  equals  32  per  cent.     These  take-  weave  the  cloth  on  a  plain  loom  and 

ups   can   be  added   to  the  yarn   sizes,  with  a  plain  weave,  for  a  fancy  weave 

thus  making  them  relatively  heavier  would  not  be  likely  to  show  at  all.    In 

PATTERN. 

Yellow  nub  novelty I   8)     )10|      I   31      I   31      1121      I  31      I   31      |10|      I   SI      =      384 

Black     nub   novelty (     I     |      I   41      |lO|      |   4|      |   4|  |lOi      |   4|      |      |      |      =      360 

V ^ I  

19 X  744  ends. 

Blue  nub  roveltv   filling.   17   picks. 
15  reed,   49"  wlrltli    In   reed.   45  ^i"  width  finished. 
16    X    17  finished  «ount. 

TARNS. 

Labor,   waste, 
Cotton.  bleaching,   etc. 

EO/1    Am.   combed.   IH'sta.:   10  hank  dou.   rev.,  20c.  22'4c.  =      42^0. 

11V4/1   Am.  carded.    l\\e"  sta. ;  2Vi    hank  dou.  rov.,  14c.  7V&C.  =      21M!C. 

30/2   spun   silk,    dyed   and   on    spools  $3.50 

NOVELTY   YARN   COST. 
;  Finished  yarn  size   =    3.87,  or  3.251   yards  per  pound. 

f    50/1  =      48/1 

Tarn  sizes  with   take-up     =      i    30/2  =     20.4 

[    ll'/4/l      =      5.98 
3.251   yards    X    4  2\4c. 

=   .0341    (2   ends  used) =   $  .0682 

48    X    840 

3,251   yards    X    21  ^ic. 

=        .1391 

6.98    X    .S40 
S.251   y.Trdu     X     $3.50 

=        .6640 

20.4    X    .';40  

Material     $.8713 

Material,    $.8713    +   $.08   twisting   =    95c.    per  pound,   total   cost. 

CLOTH   COST. 

744   ends   3.S7   novelty    +    9%  take-up   =   .2514    @    95c =   $  .2388 

17   picks   3. ST    novelty  =   .2562    @    95c =        .2434 

.Weaving    • .0242 

Kxpeiises     .0064 

Net   mill    cost    $   .5128 

Selling    expenses    .0350 

$  .5478 
Yards  per  pound.    1.97. 
Rptall   price,   $l.r,0   per   yard    (Imported). 
There  are  no  profits  at  all  considered  on  this  cloth  for  either  makers  or  sellers. 


SO  as  to  obtain  their  correct  weight, 
or  they  can  be  added  to  the  3,251  yards 
per  pound,  thus  giving  the  actual 
yards  of  each  yarn  used  in  producing 
one  pound,  or  3,251  yards  of  the  nov- 
el* v  \pTn.  We  have  uspd  the  first 
method,  which  gives  relative  yarn 
sizes  of  48.  5.98  and  20.4.  as  will  be 
seen  from  the  cloth  analysis.  Either 
method  will  give  the  weight  of  each 
yarn  which  forms  the  novelty,  and 
with  tLe  single  yarn  prices,  the  total 


the  fabric  analyzed  a  warp  pattern 
has  been  introduced  so  as  to  add  va- 
riety to  the  effect,  but  the  weave  em- 
ployed is  plain.  One  item  of  interest 
which  has  a  good  deal  to  do  with  the 
cloth  price  is  the  cloth  construction, 
or  small  number  of  picks  used  in 
weaving  the  clcth.  This  results  in  a 
large  production  in  yards  anJ  conse- 
quent lowering  of  weaving  cost,  be- 
cause it  is  divided  by  a  greater  num- 
ber of  yards.    Loom  speeds  are  slower 


322 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


on  fabrics  of  this  character  not  only 
because  of  the  yarn  used  but  also  be- 
cause the  cloth  is  made  in  a  rather 
wide  width. 

Imported  cloths  are  usually  made 
in  this  manner,  and  actually  result  in 
a  lower  producing  cost  than  would 
otherwise  be  obtained.  Domestic 
manufacturers,  or  rather  converters, 
have  been  inclined  to  cut  off  the 
width  of  the  cloth  when  the  price  be- 
came prohibitive,  and  in  this  man- 
ner, getting  it  within  their  price 
range,  but  this  is  a  mistaken  policy, 
so  far  as  value  is  concerned,  because 
the  costs  of  making  are  practically 
no  lower  for  a  27-inch  cloth  than  tbey 
are  for  a  36  or  38  inch  one.  A  com 
paratively  small  profit  per  yard  will 
return  good  dividends;  that  is,  on 
many  of  the  fabrics  being  sold  at 
about  10  cents  a  yard,  a  net  profit  to 
the  mill  has  to  be  obtained  of  any- 
where from  a  Lalf  to  a  cent  a  yard, 
if  dividends  be  satisfactory,  or,  say, 
about  10  per  cent  of  the  total  cost  of 
making,  while  the  same  ratio  or  profit 
on  this  kind  of  material  would  be 
likely  t">  return  dividends  of  over  100 
per  cent  on  the  investment,  due  to 
the  large  yardage  which  each  loom  can 
produce.  This  cloth  is  practically 
ready  for  use  when  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  a  fact  which  results  from  the 
use  of  bleached  and  dyed  yarns.  Care 
should  be  used  in  adjusting  the  loom 
so  that  the  yarn  breakages  will  be  as 
few  i*s  possible,  for  every  time  a 
thread  breaks  the  novelty  twist  effect 
disappears. 

Often  in  using  novelty  yarns,  the 
ground  yarn  will  break,  allowing  the 
effect  to  disappear,  but  the  thr-'ad  will 
still  weave  and  produce  a  bad  place 
in  the  fabric.  This  shows  the  impor- 
tance of  using  yarns  of  sufiicient 
strength  in  comprising  the  novelty 
twist  thread,  for  the  strain  comes  en- 
tirely on  one  or  two  threads,  thus 
making  the  novelty  yarn  no  stronger 
than  some  rather  fine  two-ply  yarns. 

YARN  AND  CLOTH  WEIGHTS. 

Th'^  method  of  obtaining  the  yarn 
and  clcth  weights  is  exactly  the  same 
as  for  any  ordinary  fabrics.  It  is  a 
good  p!an,  if  the  cloth  is  fn  be  dupli- 
cated exactly,  to  size  the  fini-hed  yarn 
and   then   to   analyze   it,   finding   the 


component  parts  and  their  take-ups, 
in  other  words,  to  check  up  the  actual 
yarn  size  with  the  figured  size,  just 
the  same  as  the  actual  yards  of  cloth 
per  pound  are  checked  up  by  the  fig- 
ured weights  of  the  yarns  which  com- 
pose it.  The  figured  yarn  size  is  ob- 
tained as  follows,  and  it  corresponds 
exactly  with  the  actual  size  obtained 
from  weighings: 


48/1,    the    relative    size. 
24/1,   ground  yarn,   rel- 


=    20.4/1,    relative    size    in 
5.98/1,    relative    size    for 


50/1    size     X    .96    = 
2   ends  of  48   used 

atlve    size. 
30/2    silk    X    .68    = 

silk. 
11%/1      X     .52     = 

lieavy    yarn. 

Then  applying  the  rule  for  obtaining 
the  average  size  of  yarn  when  three 
yarns  of  different  sizes  are  used,  we 
have 

24    -T-    24  =1 

24    -i-    20.4      =    1.176 

24   -+-      5.98   =   4.013 


6.189 
24    -f-    6.189    =    3.87.    completed    yarn    size. 

When  the  size  of  the  novelty  yarn 
has  been  obtained,  the  weight  of  the 
warp  and  filling  and  the  yards  per 
pound  can,  be  obtained  in  the  follow- 
ing manner: 

744   ends    -i-    (3.87/1    X    840)    =   .2288,   weight 

of    warp    without    take-up. 
9%    ttke-up   in    we-^vlnB:. 
.2288    -h    .91    =    .2514.    total    weight    of   warp 

yarn    per    vard    of   cloth. 
17  picks  X  49"  reed  width  X  36" 

«=    833  yards 

36" 

of   filling   per   vard    of   cloth. 
833    -H    (3.87/1    X    840)    =    .2562.    total  weight 

of    filling    yarn    per    vard    of    cloth. 
.2514     +     .2562     =    .5076.    total     weight    per 

vard. 
1.0000  ■+-  .5076  «=  1.97  yards  per  pound   (fln- 

Ished). 


♦  »  » 


JACQOARD  EPONGE 

One  general  class  of  fabrics  which 
has  previously  never  been  considered 
of  any  great  importance  In  cloth  sales 
Is  that  class  which  is  co-^posed  of 
yarns  of  novelty  construction,  or  at 
least  contain  a  certain  proportion  of 
such  yirn.  That  this  is  a  very  broad 
classification  will  be  readily  recog- 
nized by  anyone  familiar  with  the  de- 
tails of  cloth  making,  but  inasmuch 
as  there  are  no  definite  constructions 
used,  and  almost  every  fabric  has 
certain  individual  features,  it  may  be 
well  to  present  only  general  Ideas  re- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


garding  the  cloths  and  their  methods 
of  making.  Within  the  past  year, 
large  quantities  of  such  materials 
have  been  produced,  and  it  is  needless 
to  state  that  the  quality  is  better  and 
the  variety  of  patterns  produced  enor- 
mously wider  than  they  ever  have 
been  in  the  past. 

The  increased  demand  has  been  a 
gradual  process,  and  in  this  way  has 
been  more  interesting  than  some  of 
the  other  recent  styles  that  have  sold 
well.  Sellers  expected  that  the  idea 
would   be   short-lived    when   first    of- 


fabrics  to  composing  entirely  some  of 
the  medium  and  high-grade  cloths  and 
selling  at  prices  which  show  a  won- 
derful variation,  even  for  somewhat 
similar  materials. 

One  feature  which  has  been  very 
evident  in  sales  and  prices  is  that 
very  few  sellers  have  had  cuy  accu- 
rate idea  regarding  values  or  cost  of 
making,  for  they  had  absolutely  no 
previous  details  on  which  to  base  their 
estimates,  and,  naturally,  by  the 
time  these  cloths  have  reached  the 
consumer,    exorbitant     and    unreason- 


Jacquard    Eponge. 


fered,  but  the  production  of  it  in  wool 
and  in  silk,  and  also  the  necessity  for 

A   RADICAL    CHANGE 

In  style,  all  had  an  influence  In  the 
situation,  so  that  to-day  the  novelty 
yarn  idea  stands  preeminently  first 
when  the  sales  of  high-class  novelty 
cotton  fabrics  are  considered.  The 
materials  are,  of  course,  finding  their 
largest  distribution  as  a  dress  fabric, 
but  there  are  many  other  opportuni- 
ties for  advantageous  use,  such  as  the 
trimming  of  other  sorts  of  materials, 
for  ties,  h:its,  coats,  vests,  numerous 
forms  of  coverings,  pillows,  draperies, 
in  fact,  the  influence  of  the  idea  is 
found  on  all  grades  and  prices  of  ma- 
terial, from  decorations  in  the  lightest 


able  prices  are  many  times  noted. 
That  is,  a  fabric  costing  perhaps  25 
cents  per  yard  to  make  may  be  of- 
fered to  retail  at  $1.50  a  yard,  while 
another  costing  more  than  twice  as 
m.uch  may  be  sold  at  the  same  price, 
and  all  because  someone  in  the  line 
of  sellers  could  not  realize  the  value 
of  the  different  fabrics. 

MATERIALS  USED. 

In  a  general  way  it  can  be  said 
that  the  combinations  used  in  making 
such  yarns  are  numberless.  They 
can  be  made  out  of  cotton,  wool,  silk, 
or  even  other  materials,  but  the  first 
three  named  form  by  far  the  largest 
portion,  or  practically  all,  of  the  prod- 
ucts, with  the  fabric  composed  of  cot- 


324 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ton  easily  leading.  Then  there  are 
the  various  results  which  can  be  pro- 
duced by  a  corcbinalion  of  two 
of  the  above-mentioned  materials, 
and  which  combinations  are  of  value 
in  lowering  the  cost,  or  in  giving  ef- 
fects not  otherwise  possible.  Thus,  it 
will  be  seen  that  there  is  a  very 
good  foundation  for  the  production 
of  varying  results  at  the  mill. 

In  addition  to  the  variation  possible 
through  the  use  of  different  materials, 
there  is  the  vastly  greater  opportunity 
which  is  afforded  by  mill  processes. 
Different  sizes  of  yarns  will  produce 
radically  different  effects,  and  even 
the  amount  of  twist  inserted  in  the 
yarn  has  a  decided  influence  on  the 
result  obtained.  Most  of  the  yarns 
used  are  the  result  of  one  or  m.ore 
twisting  processes,  but  there  are  also 
other  n:ethods  by  which  quantities  of 
cloth  are  made.  One  process  uses 
waste  cotton  or  silk  fibres  and  makes 
an  irregular  yarn  and  cloth.  Another 
has  a  device  which  feeds  in  bunches 
of  cotton  stock  to  a  twisting  yarn, 
which  twists  in  the  cotton  and  holds 
it  tightly,  the  bunches  of  cotton  be- 
ing of  any  desired  color.  Then  there 
are  the  various  kinds  of  twis'ed  yarns, 
those  which  contain  loops,  those 
which  contain  nubs  and  those  in 
which  there  is  a  regular  corkscrew 
effect.  Not  only  are  all  the  above 
made  in  the  grey  state,  but  they  are 
also  made  with  different  colors  and 
combinations  of  color,  som.etimes  in  a 
number  of  different  m.ethods  on  the 
same  yarn.  Mercerized  yarns  are  also 
used  extensively,  and,  recently,  fast 
colors  have  been  used,  and  these 
methods  offer  great  opportunities  in 
the  production  of  certain  effects  at 
radical  reductions  in  price. 

CLOTH  CONSTRUCTIONS. 

Inasmuch  as  these  novelty  yams 
are  a  combination  of  a  number  of 
other  yarns,  they  are  usually  rather 
heavy  in  size,  and  because  the  yarns 
are  coarse  the  cloth  count  is  compara- 
tively low.  It  is  also  a  fact  that  the 
count  is  low  because  the  yarn  irregu- 
larities give  an  additional  firmness  not 
noted  when  ordinary  yarns  are  used, 
and  through  the  lower  count  the  de- 
sired effects  show  up  to  much  better 


advantage.  Because  the  ultimate  yarn 
size  is  heavy,  a  good  many  have  been 
inclined  to  treat  the  making  and 
the  yarn  combinations  in  too  trivial 
a  manner,  that  is,  they  do  not  consid- 
er that  practically  all  the  strain  comes 
on  one  or  two  ground  threads  when 
the  cloth  is  being  woven,  and  that 
unless  due  care  is  exercised  these 
threads  may  break  in  the  weaving 
process,  thus  allowing  the  loops,  nubs, 
or  yarn  effects  to  disappear,  although 
the  thread  as  a  whole  does  not  break 
apart.  This  causes  bad  places  in  the 
clo:h,  which,  in  high-priced  materi- 
als, create  a  second. 

In  most  cases,  a  fabric  composed 
entirely  of  novelty  yarn  is  made  with 
plain,  or  at  least  one  of  the  most  siai  ■ 
pie  of  ordinary  weaves.  This  is  done 
because  the  yarn  constitutes  largely 
the  cloth  effects,  rather  than  the 
weave  employed.  Recently,  in  novelty 
yarn  decorated  fabrics,  there  has  been 
quite  a  number  of  offerings  of  fancy 
woven  figures,  in  addition  to  the  ef- 
fects n:ade  by  the  yarn,  and  which 
show  a  great  deal  of  adaptability  on 
the  part  of  the  makers.  The  weaving 
of  the  cloth  is,  therefore,  a  compara- 
tively simple  process,  although  the 
weaver  operates  a  sm.aller  number 
Oi  looms,  and  the  filling  has  to  be 
changed  more  often,  because  the 
amount  of  yarn  on  a  bobbin  is  so 
small.  The  yardage  produced  per  loom, 
however,  is  quite  large,  even  if  the 
percentage  of  production  be  lower 
than  for  most  cloUis,  because  the 
picks  per  inch  are  few,  and  this  m.akes 
a  large  yardage  production  and  natu- 
rally aids  in  lowering  the  costs  of 
making. 

YARN    CONSTRUCTION. 

We  have  already  given  a  general 
idea  regarding  the  yarns  used  and 
their  wide  variety,  but  it  may  be  well 
to  describe  in  a  little  more  detail  the 
method  of  making  one  of  the  gen- 
eral classes  noted.  This  is  the  so- 
called  loop  yarn,  which  is  now  used 
so  extensively,  although  it  is  not 
m.ade  generally  by  the  method  em- 
ployed son:e  time  ago.  In  the  first 
place,  the  yarns  used  in  making  this 
loop  yarn  are  in  most  cases  identical 
in  construction   to   the   warp   yarn  of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


the  sizes  used,  so  that  up  to  the  twist- 
ing operation  general  yarn  detiils  ap- 
ply. 

A  good  many  have  not  attempted  to 
make  novelty  yarns,  because  they 
have  no  special  twisters,  but  such 
equipment  is  not  always  necessary  in 
a  good  many  cases,  for  the  same  or 
simi.ar  results  can  olten  be  obtained 
on  an  ordinary  spinning  frame,  if  such 
nachine  be  available.  In  the  trst 
twisting  operation  two  kinds  of  yarn 
are  used,  one  which  is  coarser  than 
the  other,  and  which  is  delivered  by 
one  set  of  roKs  at  about  twice  the 
speed  of  the  roils  delivering  the  finer 
yarn. 

It  will  readily  be  noted  that  this 
coarse  yarn,  which  is  delivered  faster, 
will  coil  around  the  finer  ground 
threads,  but  unless  a  lot  of  twist  be 
inserted  the  two  yarns  will  slip  bidly 
and  be  impracticable  of  weaving  or 
handling.  It  will  also  be  noted  that 
no  loops  are  formed,  but  only  a  com- 
bination of  two  yarns,  which  slip  on 
one  another  when  rubbed.  In  order 
to  m.ake  the  loops  or  irregularities 
and  render  the  yarn  weavable,  this 
loose-twisted  product  is  taken  and 
again  twisted  with  one  or  more  ends, 
but  in  the  opposite  direction  to  that 
of   the   first  twisting  operation.    This 

RETWISTING  PROCESS 
loosens  up  the  extra  yarn  delivered 
in  the  first  process  and  makes  ir 
regular  loops  appear,  and  the  binding 
down  by  the  ends  delivered  in  this 
second  process  holds  the  whole  re- 
sult, so  as  to  m- ke  it  a  practical 
yarn.  The  obtaining  of  the  yarn  size, 
when  combinations  are  made  in  this 
manner,  is  sometimes  rather  difficult, 
but  the  following  illustration  will 
serve  to  show  how  the  yarn  size  is  ob- 
tained on  one  of  the  twisted  yarn» 
which  has  been  described: 


2    ends    60/1    ground    threads 

==   30/1 

com- 

parative   size. 

2  ends   SO/1    loose  yarn 

=-   15/1 

com- 

parative   size. 

2   ends   60/1    letwlst 

—   30/1 

com- 

p;ir;itive    size. 

30/1    ground 

^ 

30/1 

30/1    -H    30/1 

=s 

1.000 

15/1    +    50%    take-up 

^ 

7.5/1 

30/1    -=-    7.5/1 

la 

4.000 

30/1    +    12%    take-up 

^ 

26.4/1 

30/1    -i-    26.4/1 

= 

1.136 

Of  course,  the  yarn  size  Is  often 
obtained  by  sizing  the  finished  result 
just  the  same  as  is  ordinarily  noted 
lor  cotton  yarn,  but  while  this  is  sat- 
isfactory in  obtaining  the  weight  of 
the  woven  fabric,  it  does  not  permit 
the  manufacturer  to  estimate  the 
amount  of  the  various  yarns  which  he 
must  spin  so  as  to  complete  an  order, 
neither  does  it  give  him  even  a  gen- 
eral idea  regarding  the  average  cost 
of  the  yarn  produced.  As  a  general 
statem.ent,  the  cost  of  making  novelty 
yarns  is  not  so  high  as  many  believe, 
especially  on  those  kinds  which  have 
a  regular  production,  because  the 
twist  per  inch  is  comparatively  low 
and  a  large  poundage  per  spindle  is 
produced. 

Naturally,  two  twisting  processes 
for  the  same  yarn  are  more  expensive 
than  where  only  one  is  used,  but  the 
price  is  not  prohibitive,  and  allows  a 
large  profit  when  to-day's  cloth  sell- 
ing prices  are  considered.  The  largest 
cost  in  addition  to  the  yarn  cost  is 
often  noted,  because  of  the  experi- 
mentation required  to  produce  satis- 
factory results,  and  this  should  be 
considered  in  the  cost,  because  it  is 
usually  a  special  feature.  The 
COST  OF  THE  YARN 
m.aterial  previously  considered  is  ob- 
tained as  follows: 

Finished  yarn  size  4.89/1,  or  4,108   yards  per 

pound. 

Yarn    sizes         f      60/1   two  ends   =       30/1 

Including  i       30/1   two  ends   =      7.5/1 

take-up.  L      60/1   two  ends   =   26.4/1 

With  grey  yarn  of  the  above  sizes, 
costing  to  produce  at  the  mill  44^/4 
cents  for  60-1  and  26  cents  for  30-1, 
the  average  price  of  the  yarn  material 
would  be  obtained  as  follows: 


4,108    X    44>4c. 

30/1    X    840 
4,108      X      26c. 

7.5/1    X    840 
4,108    X    44V4C. 

26.4/1    X    840 


$   .0721 


$  .1696 


i  .0819 

$  .3235. 

totai     cost     of 
yarns  used 

per   pound. 


30/1 


6.136 


6.136 
4.89/1,   resultlnff  yarn  size. 


The  above  amount  is  for  the  yams 
alone  which  compose  the  novelty  ef- 
fect,   and    there    must    be    added    the 


326 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


amounts  of  labor,  expenses,  insurance, 
etc.,  noted  in  twisting  operations,  and 
also,  as  previously  stated,  a  certain 
amount  as  the  cost  of  experimenta- 
tion, and  which  will  vary  widely,  in 
some  cases  being  practically  nothing 
per  pound,  and  in  other  cases  very 
large.  It  is  believed  that  a  large  pro- 
portion of  mills  which  are  making 
novelty  yarns  have  been  somewhat 
lax  in  obtaining  their  correct  costs, 
and  that  if  they  had  been  more  ac- 
curate in  the  matter  a  greater 
amount  of  cloth  would  have  been 
made,  for  some  of  the  profits  received 
would  have  been  more  readily  ascer- 
tainable. Only  by  treating  each  yarn 
cost  separately  can  the  correct  result 
be  obtained,  and  when  the  yarn  costs 
are  not  correct,  the  cloth  costs  natu- 
rally cannot  be. 

WEAVING    FACTS. 

It  has  been  previously  explained 
just  why  most  of  these  cloths  are 
made  with  plain  weaves,  but  there 
are  certain  other  features  which  are 
of  interest.  Because  of  the  nature  of 
the  cloth,  the  loom  speed  's  likely  to 
be  somewhat  less  than  it  is  on  ordi- 
nary fancy  cloths,  but  the  production 
per  loom  is  large,  because  there  are 
so  few  picks  per  inch.  The  looms 
per  weaver  are  comparatively  few, 
in  many  fancy  fabrics  there  being 
but  one  loom  to  a  weaver.  Condi- 
tions of  weaving  differ  widely,  be- 
cause of  the  widely  varying  styles  of 
fabrics,  and  results  which  can  be  ob- 
tained on  one  construction  in  a  cer- 
tain  way  are  not  always  possible  on 
another  fabric.  The  more  complicated 
effects  are  produced  by  the  use  of 
dyed   and   bleached  yarns. 

At  present  retailers  are  selling  a 
wide  variety  of  these  fabrics  in  the 
plainer  constructions,  but  in  order  to 
continue  the  idea  cloth  makers  are 
producing  crepes,  voiles  and  other 
fabrics,  which  contain  decorations  of 
novelty  yarns,  they  are  adding  checks 
and  fancy  effects  to  other  cloths,  for 
which  there  is  a  wide  sale,  and  they 
are  using  stripes  which  contain  dif- 
ferent colors,  so  as  to  give  a  wider 
range  of  production.  The  idea  is  also 
being  applied  to  stripes  in  curtain 
fabrics,  and  in  many  other  ways  not 


generally  recognized.  In  fact,  there 
never  has  been  a  time  in  the  past 
when  any  one  idea  was  applied  to  so 
many  different  cloths  and  in  such 
widely  varying  effects  as  at  present. 
One  feature  not  to  be  lost  sight  of 
when  novelty  cloth  is  being  sold  ex- 
tensively is  its  effect  on  the  future 
of  cloths  and  the  cloth-making  indus- 
try. 

Without  doubt  the  large  production 
of  novelty  yarn  fabrics  will  develop 
a  more  or  less  steady  use  -of  such  ma- 
terials, thus  creating  a  broader  indus- 
try and 

A  GREATER  CHOICE 
of  fabrics  among  consumers.  It  is 
being  admitted  to-day  that  voile  fab- 
rics have  proved  such  desirable  ma- 
terials that  there  will  be  a  continual 
demand,  although  the  present  large 
use  will  not  be  noted,  and  the  same 
results  are  likely  to  be  seen  regarding 
certain  of  the  novelty  yarn  goods. 
Their  making  also  has  a  great  amount 
of  influence  at  the  mills,  for  it  de- 
velops ability  through  experience,  and 
makes  a  better  class  of  operatives  or 
overseers,  and  ones  who  are  able  to 
handle    somewhat    difiicult    situations. 

There  are  many  mills  to-day 
producing  novelty  yarn  cloths 
which  previously  considered  them  en- 
tirely out  of  their  field.  Even  many 
of  the  ordinary  print  cloth  mills  have 
made  and  sold  fabrics  which  contain 
stripes  or  variations  from  the  ordi- 
nary run  of  cloths,  and  which  often, 
result  in  a  better  profit  to  the  mak- 
ers, and  such  methods  tend  to  develop 
a  broader  industry,  and  one  able  to 
take  advantage  of  all  the  opportuni- 
ties which  are  presented  by  the 
changes  in  cloth  styles. 

FABRICS    AND    WEIGHT. 

To  show  the  wide  variety  of  cloths 
produced  we  present  a  few  of  the 
many  now  selling.  One  is  made  en- 
tirely from  white  yarn,  but  it  has  a 
novelty  effect  produced  by  loops  and 
also  by  bunches  of  cotton  inserted  In 
the  yarn.  The  weave  used  is  plain. 
Another  fabric  has  a  novelty  yarn 
warp,  with  a  plain  yarn  filling,  and, 
because  of  the  fine  and  coarse  nature 
of  the  warp;  an  effect  Is  produced  not 
much  different  from  that  of  the  ordl- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


327 


nary  ondule  cloth.  The  weave  on  this 
fabric  is  also  plain.  Another  fabric 
is  made  with  a  combination  novelty 
yarn,  which  has  a  loop  effect  for 
ground  and  a  binder  in  the  retwisting 
operation,  which  works  as  a  nub  and 
produces  a  contrasting  effect  in  col- 
ors. 

Stripes  of  different  colored  nubs 
are  used,  and  the  effect  is  very  attrac- 
tive when  this  kind  of  cloth  is  being 
considered.  Plain  weave  also  forms 
the  basis  for  this  fabric.  One  fabric 
which  has  recently  appeared,  and 
which  shows  quite  radical  changes 
from  the  ordinary  fabric,  has  a  mer- 
cerized yarn  ground  very  similar  to 
an  ordinary  poplin  but  with  a  five- 
harness  weave  used  instead  of  plain, 
and,  in  addition,  has  a  jacquard  figure 
introduced  by  a  portion  of  the  filling, 
which  has  a  combination  novelty  yarn 
effect   with   loops  and   nubs. 

PRICES  VARY  MUCH. 

The  prices  of  these  cloths  vary 
quite  a  little  and  range  from  $1.50  to 
$3  per  yard  for  cloths  which  are 
most  of  them  over  40  inches  in  width. 
One  item  of  interest  is  that  novelty 
yarn  fabrics  have  been  partly  respon- 
sible for  the  largely  increased  price 
of  cotton  goods,  which  is  partially  jus 
tified  by  the  cost  of  production  and 
the  prices  which  are  noted  when  any 
idea  is  in  demand.  Without  doubt 
the  era  of  fancy  cloth  making  in  do- 
mestic mills  has  just  commenced,  and 
if  the  future  shows  as  much  increase 
in  adaptability  and  in  styling  as  has 
been  noted  during  the  past  year,  there 
will  be  very  little  opportunity  for 
criticism  regarding  the  progress  of 
the  domestic  industry.  The  weight  of 
the  yarns  and  the  weight  of  the  re- 
sulting fabric  which  contains  novelty 
yarns  is  obtained  in  a  similar  manner 
to  that  employed  on  ordinary  fabrics 
that  is,  after  the  yarn  size  has  been 
obtained.  The  weight  on  one  of  the 
fabrics,  which  is  illustrated,  is  as  fol- 
lows: 

Yarn    size   3.87/1    (relative   size). 

Threads   per   Inch   16. 

Picks    per    Inch    17. 

Width    of    cloth    finished    45%". 

744   ends   -j-    (3.87/1    X    840)    =   .2288.   weight 

of    warp    without    take-up. 
>%  take-up  in   weaving. 


.2288    -•-   .91    —    .2514,    total   weight  of   warp 

per  yard   of  cloth. 
17  picks  X  49"  reed  width  X  36" 

— —  =   833  yards 

36" 

Of  nillng  per  yard  of  cloth. 
833  -t-    (3.87/1    X    840)    =  .Z562,   total  weight 

of    filling    per   yard    of    cloth. 
.2514     +     .2562     =     .5076.     total     weight    per 

yard. 
1.0000    -*-   .5076    =   1.97    yards    per   pound. 


STRIPED  BEDFORD  CORD 

Bedford  cords  have  been  in  saaall 
demand  for  a  number  of  years  past, 
partly  because  styles  did  not  use 
them  largely,  and  partly  because  cot- 
ton was  high  in  price,  Thu3e  fabrics, 
though  many  times  made  of  fine  yarn 
and  having  a  high  count,  are  usually 
quite  heavy,  and  use  quite  a  little  ma- 
terial. As  is  well  known,  the  demand 
has  lately  increased  and  many  varie- 
ties and  constructions  are  being  of- 
fered and  sold.  Most  of  the^e  fabrics 
are  sold  in  the  white  state,  but  many 
new  patterns  are  seen  in  colors.  Be- 
cause of  manufacturing  conditions, 
wherein  expenees  were  high  from  the 
use  of  comparatively  fine  bleached 
yarn,  most  of  the  cloths  were  made  in 
the  grey  state  and  bleached  when 
woven.  With  the  making  rf  fast  col- 
ored yarn  to  stand  bleaching,  it  is 
expected  that  more  colors  will  be  used 
in  stripes  in  grey  woven  cloth,  not 
only  in  fabrics  similar  to  saiLple,  but 
also  in  various  other  lines  in  which 
colors  can  be  used  to  an  extent  for 
varying  the  patterns. 

The  fabric  considered  is  an  import- 
ed one,  and  there  are  a  number  of  in- 
teresting features  regarding  the  cloth. 
It  is  made  in  the  usual  method  in  con- 
structing such  patterns,  that  is,  the 
weave  appearing  on  the  face  of  the 
cloth  is  plain,  and  the  filling  weaves 
alternately  in  every  second  cord,  two 
picks  being  woven  into  the  face  and 
then  reversing  to  the  back  on  the  fol- 
lowing cord,  where  they  hold  In 
threads  used  for  the  purpose  oi  round- 
ing out  the  rords  on  the  face.  These 
threads  held  in  to  make  the  cords 
round  are  railed  stufer  ends.  The 
cord  which  is  composed  of  black  yarn 
is  one  dent  smaller  than  those  made 
of  white  ya^n.  In  our  drawing-ln 
draft  we  have  placed  the  selvages 
on  separate  harnesses,  although  they 


828 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


weave  similar  to  the  stuffer,  and  In 

ruaking  up  ihe  w-irps,  tney  uould 
probably  be  placed  on  these  stuffer 
harnesses.  We  have  separated  them 
from  the  main  warp  to  make  the  draft 
somewhat  clearer.  It  is  to  be  noted 
that  an  end  of  plain  weave  must  be 
used  on  the  outside  of  each  selvage  to 
keep  the  filling  iroji  slipping  bacK.  as 
the  selvages  have  two  picks  in  a  shed. 

DETERMINED  BY  STYLE. 

One  of  the  interesting  facts  in  con- 
nection with  this  cloth  is  that  the 
warp  is  all  two-ply  yam,  while  the 
filling  is   single,   and  another   is   the 


tailers  import  fabrics,  and  this  is  one 
of  the  fabrics  purchased. 

The  other  interesting  features  in 
this  connection  are  the  facis  regard- 
ing prices.  Ihis  labric  is  to-day  re- 
tailing for  75  cents  per  yard,  and  it  is 
not  believed  its  selling  price  finished 
in  Em  ope  was  over  25  cen:s  per  yard, 
which,  with  the  added  price  for  duty, 
would  allow  a  large  prortt  to  anyone 
handling  such  a  cloth.  A  a  manu- 
facturer's proKt  on  a  cioth  of  this  kind 
would  not  be  over  two  cents  per  yard, 
and  in  the  majority  of  cases,  not 
much  over  half  this  amount,  it  can  be 
seen  how  cheaply  these  cloths  can  be 


1 

I 


rii 


1 

I 

; 

I 

;, 


Striped  Bedford  Cord. 


low  number  of  picks  in  the  cloth, 
namely  64.  From  large  experience  in 
making  and  selling  this  variety  of 
cloths,  it  is  not  believed  that  a  fabric 
constructed  in  this  way  could  be  sold 
by  an  American  manufacturer.  The 
fabric  has  so  few  picks  and  the  fill- 
ing yarn  is  so  fine  in  comparison  with 
the  warp  that  there  is  little  strength 
fllling-ways  of  the  cloth,  a.  J  a.  buyer 
would  not  accept  any  such  fabric. 
A  slight  strain  will  result  in  destroy- 
ing the  cloth.  The  reason  why  such 
a  construction  was  purchased  was  be- 
cause a  retail  buyer  bought  tht  goods 
and  few  of  them  are  influencei  by  any 
cloth  quality  a  fabric  has.  but  the  style 
determined  the  purchase.     Lcrge  re- 


made. It  can  be  stated  as  a  fact  that 
domestic  mills  would  not  be  guilty  of 
making  many  cloths  with  construc- 
tions like  sample,  and  what  is  more 
to  the  point,  they  could  not  get  away 
with  any  such  fabrics  if  they  did  offer 
them.  There  are  many  cloths  sold  in 
An^erici  to-day,  similar  to  sample, 
"Which  are  far  better  value  than  the 
on'^  an^lvzpd. 

Few  Bedford  cords  are  being  sold 
by  domestic  mills  or  converters  to-day 
at  over  25  cents  per  yard,  unless  they 
can  show  a  much  belter  construction 
or  more  value  than  the  one  consid- 
ered. 

This  Instance  is  one  which  only  Il- 
lustrates   the    hold    which    retailers 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


an 


II     III 

^  M  1  ■■  1 

■Hl^^jH 

■H^^^aH^^n                                                          i" 

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have   on    distribution   and    the   prices 
which  are   charged.     Many 

AMERICANS  ARE  FOOLED 

by  the  imported  label.     This  is  uae4 


by  many  to  get  higher  prices  for  their 
wares,  notably  different  classes  of 
textiles.  Because  so  many  Americans 
were  at  some  time  or  other  natives 
of  Europe,  they  have  the  feeling  that 


330 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


any  imported  fabric  is  better  than 
those  made  in  America.  "While  this 
may  be  true  in  some  instances,  there 
is  an  increasing  knowledge  that  this 
coudition  is  not  w^ixauted  uy 
facts,  and  many  are  beginning  to  see 
that  a  large  part  of  this  feeling  is 
mere  hearsay,  for  a  large  percentage 
of  mill  employes  are  of  foreign  birth 
and  education,  and  very  few  real 
Americans  are  found  in  the  factories 
to-day.  It  is  becoming  known  that 
many  of  the  beautiful  fabrics  pro- 
duced in  America  are  sold  as  of  for- 
eign product,  so  that  while  the  man- 
ufacturer does  not  reap  any  rewards 
of  this  practice,  either  converter,  job- 
ber or  retailer  does. 

The  process  keeps  educating  con- 
sumers into  the  belief  tnat  Americans 
are  far  behind  in  manufacturing  good 
cloths,  and  does  stimulate  importa- 
tions of  fabrics  which  might  be  made 
by  domestic  manufacturers  otherwise. 
This  is  possibly  one  reason  why  some 
jobbers  and  many  retailers  object  to 
selling  trade-marked  textiles.  If  all 
textiles  were  trade-marked  in  some 
manner  so  that  consumers  would 
know  they  were  of  domestic  make, 
there  would  be  a  surprising  condition 
of  affairs  revealed,  and  many  of 
the  large  profits  secured  by  some 
sellers  would  be  reduced,  or  possibly 
the  manufacturers  would  obtain  some- 
what larger  profits. 

Bedford  cords  require  but 

FEW  HARNESSES 

to  weave,  usually  not  over  eight,  and 
although  most  mills  with  dobby  looms 
make  them,  the  price  is  high,  because 
they  are  a  heavy  cloth.  The  count 
is  high  in  most  cases,  being  many 
times  over  120  times  120.  For  this 
reason  the  yards  produced  are  small 
In  comparison  to  many  other  lines  of 
fabrics.  Because  of  the  high  number 
of  picks  the  warps  must  be  well  sized 
or  the  friction  will  break  the  ends. 
It  is  necessary  to  use  a  rather  coarse 
reed  to  obtain  satisfactory  results  In 
weaving.  Quite  a  few  ends  must  be 
reeded  together,  and  sometimes  the 
best  running  result  can  only  be  de- 
termined by  experimentation.  The 
take-up  in  weaving  of  the  stuffer  ends 
Is    very    small,    as    they    lie    nearly 


straight  in  the  cloth.  If  dyed  yarn 
be  used  for  the  stripe  in  weaving  and 
grey  yarn  for  ihe  re  ^  aniaef 
of  the  warp,  the  take-up  on  the  color 
is  likely  to  be  more  than  on  the  rest 
of  the  warp,  unless  care  is  used  in 
weaving.  If  the  take-ups  are  not 
nearly  the  same,  a  different  appear- 
ance is  sometimes  seen  on  tue  various 
stripes  in  the  cloth. 
This  fabric,  although  it  has  a 

HIGH  WARP  COUNT, 

has  the  same  appearance  which  all 
these  lines  do  when  few  picks  are 
used  in  weaving.  The  nice  smooth 
surface  is  missing,  as  in  reality  only 
32  picks  per  inch  are  used  for  the 
face  of  the  cloth.  We  have  never 
seen  a  satisfactory  Bedford  cord  made 
with  a  very  small  number  of  picks, 
and  domestic  makers  seldom  make 
cloths  with  less  than  80  picks  per 
inch,  and  whenever  fewer  picks  are 
used,  it  is  to  get  a  cloth  made  which 
will  sell  at  a  certain  price.  About 
ten  years  ago,  quite  a  few  Bedford 
cords  were  sold  with  fancy  weaves, 
and  various  constructions  in  combina- 
tions, and  it  is  likely  many  of  the 
Ideas  then  used  will  be  repro'!uced 
with  the  r.ddition  of  color  which  was 
not  available  at  that  time. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  the 
advent  of  fast  colo:s  to  stand  bleach- 
ing has  opened  large  fields  which  have 
never  before  been  utilized,  as  can  be 
noted  In  the  making  of  stripes  and 
checks  in  silk  and  cotton  novelties, 
in  the  making  of  stripes  in  Bedford 
cords,  in  the  making  of  stripes  in  mer- 
cerized piece  goods,  and  it  can  be  util- 
ized in  the  manufacture  of  novelty 
yarns  in  making  the  cloth  called 
eponge  or  Turkish  toweling,  which 
buyers  are  at  present  interested  in 
largely. 

While  Bedford  cords  and  piques  are 
used  for  a  variety  of  purposes,  it  is 
believed  by  some  that  unless  business 
increases  largely  there  will  be  a  sur- 
plus of  these  cloths  the  latter  part  of 
the  coming  season.  As  a  rule,  the  to- 
tal amount  sold  of  novelties  of  this 
character  is  small,  and  sellers  have 
m^ny  linps  in  h^nd,  r<-ri(\  nni*^p  a  fow 
of  the  orders  at  the  mills  are  for  these 
cloths,  BO  some  doubt  is  expressed  re- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


831 


garding  prices  later  In  the  season. 
The  interest  expressed  in  other  newer 
fabrics  is  likely  to  detract  somewhat 


from  the  sale  which  was  anticipated 
earlier  in  the  season  on  various  styles 
of  Bedford  cords. 


PATTERN. 


50/2   Am.   combed    white 
37V4/2   Am.   carded   white 
bu/Z    Am.    combed   black. 


1  > 

12 

3 

1 

2 

2 

1 

1 

4 

1 

1 

4 

2 
1 

1 

1 

2,778  beam  No.  1. 

1,183  beam  No.  2. 

910  beam  No.  3. 


5  X 


2  X 


5  X 


4,871  total    ends. 


91  X 

50/1   American  combed  filling;   64   picks. 

30   reed,    33%"   width   in   reed,    32"   grey   width,    31%"   finished   width;    152    X    64   grey   count 
over  ail;    154    X    63    finished   count  over  all. 


Cotton. 
21c. 
17^0. 

17%c. 


Labor, 
waste,  etc.  Twisting. 
1414  c.  3c. 

7%c.  2c. 

I2V2C. 


YARNS. 

50/2  Am.  combed,  IM"  sta.;  10  hank  dou.  rov., 
37V4/2  Am.  carded.  1V6"  sta.;  T)^  hank  dou.  rov., 
50/1  Am.  combed,  l^^i"  sta.;  12  hank  dou.  rov., 
60/2  biack,  same  as  above,  with  addition  of  16c.  for  dyeing,  beaming,  etc. 

COST. 

2,778   ends.    50/2    Am.   combed +    8%   take-up   =   .1438    @    38Vic. 

1,183   ends.    37^/2   Am.   carded +    2%   take-up   =   .0767    @    27%c. 

910   ends,    50/:;    Am.    combed   black -f    8%   take-up   =   .0470    @    5414c. 

64   picks,    50/1    Am.   combed =  .0514    (g)    30c. 

Weaving    

Expenses     


Selling     

Bleaching,    etc. 


Yards  per  pound,   3.14. 
Retail  price,   75c.   per  yard. 


38%c. 

27Vic. 

30c. 

54%c. 


$  .0550 
.0209 
.0:^55 
.0154 
.0147 
.0133 

$  .1448 
.0029 

$  .1477 
.0150 

$  .1627 


SWISS  APPLIQUE  (PRINTED) 

We  have  at  various  times  described 
different  classes  of  fabrics  wLich  are 
decorated  in  some  manner  other  than 
by  the  weave,  that  is,  either  through 
the  use  of  a  swivel  or  lappet  motion, 
or  through  the  use  of  the  box  loom  or 
the  embroidery  machine.  There  Is  an- 
other class  of  fabrics  which  is  not  sold 
very  extensively,  but  which  shows  a 
much  different  appearance  and  is  pro- 
duced in  a  radically  different  manner 
than  any  of  those  which  we  have  pre- 
viously described.  In  a  general  way, 
it  Is  a  fabric  in  which  there  are  de- 
cided contrasts,  that  Is,  with  portions 
of  the  cloth  rather  thin  and  transpar- 
ent, and  with  other  portions  opaque 
even  when  they  are  of  the  sarae  color 
as  the  ground  cloth.    Probably  in  the 


majority  of  Instances  these  cloths 
have  a  white  ground  and  are  deco- 
rated with  colored  figures  In  what 
might  be  called 

GEOMETRICAL  PATTERNS. 

An  ordfnary  examination  of  ihe  fin- 
ished material  will  show  that  the 
small  spots  are  stuck  onto  the  cloth  in 
some  manner.  These  will  stand  the 
ordinary  washing  process  In  8  satis- 
factory manner,  and  whenever  such 
fabrics  are  desirable  this  method  of 
production  can  be  used.  Some  of  such 
fabrics  are  continually  sold,  but  at 
certain  times  when  very  light  ground 
fabrics  of  a  rather  crisp  nature  are 
desirable  a  much  larger  quantity  can 
be  sold.  The  fabrics  are  used  for 
dresses,  waists,  collars,  cuffs,  trim- 
mings and  various  other  small  made- 
up  articles  for  women's  wear.  The 
fabrics  are  not  especially  durable  be- 
cause they  are  so  light,  but  they  are 


332 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


practically   as   durable   as   any   other 
fabric  of  a  similar  construction. 

DIFFER  FROM  ORDINARY  PRINTS. 

The  results  are  produced  by  a  proc- 
ess much  similar  to  printing  and  which 
will  be  subsequently  described,  but  it 
may  be  well  to  enumerate  certain  of 
the  differences  which  exist  between  a 
fabric  such  as  analyzed  and  an  ordi- 
nary printed  fabric  wherein  the  same 
or  similar  ground  cloth  is  used.  The 
first  thing  which  will  be  observed  is 
that  the  figure  is  raised  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  cloth  whereas  this  does  not 
occur  in  an  ordinary  printed  material. 
For  another  thing  it  will  be  noted  that 


figures  being  made  up  of  small  spots 
or  dots  of  various  sizes.  The  ordinary 
printed  pattern  often  contains  scroll 
patterns,  and  except  in  the  cheaper 
grades  does  not  often  consist  of  spots, 
at  least  not  arranged  as  they  are  in 
the  fabrics  under  discussior.  The 
feature  that  would  be  noted  by  a  con- 
sumer before  anything  else  would 
probably  be  the  fact  that  the  ordinary 
printed  pattern  contains  a  number  of 
colors  prranged  in  harmony  to  produce 
the  flower  or  effect  desired,  whereas 
in  these  printed  Swisses  there  is  sel- 
dom more  than  a  single  color  used. 
Wherever  the  printed  pattern  appears 
on  an  ordinary  fabric  it  is  very  easy 


M 


& 


Swiss  Applique  (Printed). 


the  printed  pattern  appears  on  both 
sides  of  the  cloth  and  in  a  similar 
manner,  that  is,  the  figure  is  raised  on 
both  surfaces.  On  an  ordinary  print- 
ed cloth  the  pattern  seldom  is  as 
prominent  on  the  back  as  it  is  on  the 
face,  and  in  a  good  many  Instances  It 
is  hardly  visible  at  all  on  the  back  of 
the  cloth. 

One  of  the  most  prominent  features 
In  such  fabrics  is  that  there  is  a  wide 
divergence  of  the  patterns  from  those 
ordinarily  noted,  at  least  In  a  large 
majority  of  instances.     Continuous  or 

SCROLL  PATTERNS 

cannot  be  produced  and  geometrical 
figures  are  more    often    noted,  tliese 


to  move  the  threads  and  picks  back 
and  forth  if  the  fabric  construction  is 
not  very  firm,  and,  in  addition,  the 
threads  and  picks  composing  the  cloth 
are  always  visible,  whereas  in  the  fab- 
ric analyzed  the  figure  entirely  covers 
up  the  yarn  and  does  not  permit  any 
movement  of  the  threads  whatever. 
Any  large  pattern  on  this  sort  of 
printing  will 

MAKE  A  FABRIC  STIFF 

and  somewhat  undesirable,  and  for 
this  reason  quite  a  little  judgment  has 
to  be  used  in  the  amount  of  figure 
which  is  applied.  It  may  be  well  to 
note  here  that  it  is  desirable  to  have 
the  ground  cloth  of  good  quality  just 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


333 


the  same  as  when  printed  patterns  are 
being  applied  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances. Any  great  amount  of  irregu- 
larity in  the  yarns  used  will  make  a 
very  uneven  finished  result,  because 
a  light-weight  fabric  with  fine  yarns 
and  plain  weave  shows  up  the  quality 
of  yarn  about  as  prominently  as  is 
ever  noted.  The  range  of  patterns 
■which  can  be  obtained  from  this  meth- 
od of  printing  is  somewhat  limited, 
though  it  undoubtedly  gives  an  effect 
which  is  otherwise  not  possible. 
Smooth,  round  spots  cannot  be  ob- 
tained by  embroidery,  swivel  weaving 
or  by  any  other  method,  so  as  to  be  as 
regular  as  those  printed  by  this 
method. 

GROUND  FABRIC  REGULAR. 
There  is  little  to  interest  consumers 
or  manufacturers  in  the  ground  fabric 
upon  which  the  printed  pattern  is 
placed.  This  fabric  can  be  made  in  a 
good  many  plants  and  contains  quite 
fine  yams  and  is  woven  with  plain 
weave.  An  ordinary  fine  goods  mill 
usually  produces  large  quantities  of 
similar  fabrics  when  they  are  in  de- 
mand, though  recently  the  sale  has 
been  rather  small.  The  cloth  is  pur- 
chased in  the  grey  state  and  then 
bleached,  afterward  being  placed 
upon  it  the  printed  pattern  which  is 
desired.  Generally  sneaking,  the 
ground  fabric  is  no  different  from 
many  of  those  similar  cloths  of  a 
lipht  rhfracter  which  have  a  rather 
stiff  finish   and  are 

SOLD  IN  THE  WHITE  STATE. 
The  production  of  such  cloths  is  quite 
high  at  the  loom  because  the  loom 
speed  is  somewhat  higher  than  for 
fancy  materials  and  the  percentage  of 
production  is  a'so  large,  due  to  man- 
ufacturing conditions.  Relatively,  a 
large  number  of  looms  per  weaver  are 
operated  because  the  filling  will  last 
for  quite  a  long  time  and  because  the 
yam  is  not  subject  to  some  of  the 
strains  which  are  noted  in  other  styles 
of  goods.  Undoubtedly  such  cloths 
can  be  produced  about  as  cheaply  as 
any  fabric  in  the  market,  all  things 
•  considered,  and  many  think  that 
there  is  more  economy  practiced  in 
the  making  of  such  goods  than  is  not- 
ed for  any  other  style  of  cotton  fabric 
produced,  not  excepting  the  ordinary 


well-known  print  This  fact  makes 
it  possible  for  the  converter  or  finish- 
er to  purchase  the  ground  fabric  upon 
which  he  is  to  place  the  printed  pat- 
em,  for  a  rather  low  price. 

FEATURES  OF  FINISHING. 
There  are  a  number  of  interesting 
features  in  regard  to  the  production 
of  these  printed  Swisses,  the  first  be- 
ing the  process  through  which  the 
material  that  is  to  be  applied  to  the 
cloth  is  produced.  The  fibre  which  is 
used  is  often  cotton,  in  the  unspun 
condition,  but  due  to  the  method  of 
handling  it  has  often  been  thought  to 
be  various  kinds  of  wood  pulp.  Cotton 
or  cotton  waste  is  obtained,  and  this 
Is  ground  very  fine  or  into  a  powder 
by  machinery  made  for  the  purpose. 
More  than  one  process  is  used  cr  un- 
til tlie  cotton  fibre  has  very  little 
staple  left,  being  more  in  the  form  of 
ordinary  light  dust  than  anything  else. 
Naturally,  whenever  colored  patterns 
are  to  be  produced,  the  fibre  is  dyed, 
but  thi=!  is  immaterial  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  the 

PRINTING  OR  PRODUCING 
process.  The  dyestuffs  necessary 
would  be  those  ordinarily  used  for  dye- 
ing cotton  cloth  or  yarn.  The  next 
feature  of  interest  is  in  regard  to  the 
design  making.  The  pattern  sketches, 
of  course,  would  be  made  up  just  the 
same  as  when  other  styles  of  printed 
patterns  are  to  be  made.  This  radical 
difference,  however,  is  noted.  The  or- 
dinary pattern,  as  applied  to  a  cotton 
fabric  is  engraved  upon  copper  rcllera, 
one  roller  for  each  color  in  the  pat- 
tern. Tn  this  sort  of  ]  rinting  no  roll- 
ers are  used,  but  rather  an  endless 
band  of  nuite  thin  copner.  The  pat- 
tern is  laid  out  upon  this  endless  cop- 
per band,  and  instead  of  being  eaten 
partway  into  the  copper  as  is  noted 
when  rolls  are  used  it  is  cut  clean 
through  the  endless  copper  band. 
There  's  very  little  to  explain  regard- 
ing t.iis  feature.  Most  of  the  patterns 
on  the  bands  are  cut  through  with  a 
dye  or  in  some  other  manner,  whereas 
the  pattern  upon  the  roller  is  eaten 
out  with  acid.  The  shellac  which  cov- 
ers the  copper  roH  almnsL  entirely 
when  immersed  in  the  arid  would  not 
be  suitable  for  the  endless  copper 
band.  Inasmuch  as  the  band  is  not  stiff, 


334 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


but  rather  flexible.  It  is  just  as  neces- 
sary to  liave  the  patterns  repeat  in 
the  length  of  copper  band,  as  it  is  in 
the  circumference  of  the  copper  roll, 
and  the 

METHOD  OF  LAYING  OUT 
is  just  as  accurately  done.  The  cir- 
cumference of  the  copper  band  is, 
however,  usually  very  much  greater 
than  the  circumference  of  the  copper 
roll.  The  foregoing  facts  show  clear- 
ly why  continuous  or  scroll  patterns 
are  not  used.  In  order  to  obtain  a 
scroll  or  continuous  pattern,  it  would 
be  necessary  to  have  a  continuous  cut 
lengthwise  of  the  copper  band  and 
this  would  cut  the  band  into  various 
strips  and  they  would  not  stay  in 
their  proper  positions,  thus  causing 
insurm^  intable  difficulties.  The  next 
interesting  feature  in  regard  to  this 
process  is  that  the  fibre  which  is 
ground  up  is  not  stuck  immediately 
onto  the  cloth.  To  obtain  such  a  re- 
sult a 

PREPARATION  OF  GLUE 
is  brought  into  contact  with  the  fabric 
through  the  holes  in  the  endless  cop- 
per band.  This  permits  a  pattern  to 
be  made  or  printed  upon  the  cloth 
somewhat  similar  to  an  ordinary  print- 
ed pattern  though  made  of  glue.  Im- 
mediately after  this  printed  pattern 
has  been  applied,  the  cotton  cloth  is 
sprinkled  with  the  ground  cotton 
fibre.  This  cotton  fibre  is  agitated  in 
the  machine  and  is  applied  both  to 
the  back  and  face  of  the  fabric  and 
explains  why  the  printed  figure  is 
raised  on  both  sides  of  the  cloth.  The 
fibre  sticks  only  to  that  portion  of  the 
fabric  where  the  pattern  of  glue  has 
been  applied.  Naturally,  a  certain 
amount  of  ground  fibre  is  left  upon 
the  fabric,  even  though  the  glue  pat- 
tern does  not  hold  it,  but  this  can  be 
very  easily  removed  by  a  blowing 
process  or  by  brushing  after  the  fabric 
becomes  dried.  The  amount  of  fibre 
which  is  taken  up  depends  a  good 
deal  on  the  amount  of  glue  which  is 
applied  and  the  size  of  the  spot  print- 
ed. It  Is  necessary  that  the  glue  does 
not  spread  or  run,  for  if  this  occurs 
the  design  will  not  be  what  was  in- 
tended and  correct  results  will  not  be 
obtained.  In  order  to  eliminate  this 
spreading  tendency  the  fibre  is  applied 


to  the  printed  cloth  immediately  after 
it  has  been  printed  and  beiore  ihe  glue 
dries  or  spreads.  'Ihere  is  a  large 
amount  of  ground  fibre  in  the  air 
when  such  a  printing  process  is  being 
accomplished  because  tlie  fibre  is 
ground  very  fine  and  the  material 
must  be  agitated  quite  extensively  if 
it  is  to  be  applied  regularly  throughout 
the  entire  fabric  width.  It  is  always 
impossible  to  handle  any  fine  mate- 
rial, similar  to  that  described,  without 
having  a  great  deal  of  it  in  the  atmos- 
phere, especially  when  there  is  an  ex- 
cess of  the  fibre  upon  the  fabric  as  it 
comes  from  the  machine.  It  will  be 
readily  realized  that  the  spots  which 
are  stuck  on  will  not  dry  very  quickly 
and  for  this  reason  a  drying  process  is 
necessary.  The  cloth  is  hung  up  in 
large  rooms  in  folds  which  run  up  and 
down  much  the  same  as  is  noted  in 
certam  of  the  piece-dyeing  machines 
which  are  now  being  sold.  This 
method  of  handling  allows  the  air  to 
circulate  through  every  layer  of  cloth 
and  keeps  the  damp  spots  from  stick- 
ing to  the  folds  which  come  next  to 
them.  If  the  cloth  was  folded  at  all 
tightly,  or  rolled  up  before  it  was  dry 
the  printed  effect  desired  would  be  en- 
tirely spoiled,  because  one  fold  would 
have  a  tendency  to  stick  to  the  fold 
next  to  it.    The 

MOST  IMPORTANT  FEATURE 

in  the  whole  process  is  the  kind  of 
glue  or  composition  which  is  used  in 
o*^taining  the  spot.  It  must  be  a  ma- 
terial which  is  affected  very  little  by 
moisture  or  ordinary  atmosphere  con- 
ditions. It  is  also  necessary  for  such 
fabrics  to  be  washed  at  certain  times 
and  if  an  ordinary  glue  were  used 
there  would  be  no  pattern  or  spots  re- 
maining after  th  washing  process  was 
completed.  The  method  of  obtaining 
the  result  Is,  however,  very  interest- 
ing, and  at  certain  times  is  more  or 
less  desirable.  The  speed  with  which 
the  printing  can  be  accomplished  is 
not  so  fast  as  is  noted  for  an  ordinary 
printed  material  for  reasons  which  are 
obvious  to  most  peonle,  but  it  might 
be  said  a  fast  speed  in  printing  would 
make  it  Impossible  to  e-et  the  ground 
fibre  stuck  onto  the  cloth  in  a  satis- 
factory "manner,  and  would  probably 
result  in  many  seconds  being  produced 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


338: 


through  one  cloth  coming  in  contact  thing  which  can  be  produced  in  the 
with  a  portion  which  had  immediately  domestic  market.  They  surely  pro- 
preceded,  duce  a  raised  spot  and  the  variety  of 

VARiu"rv  TTsi  T?ARRTP  p ATTPRMQ         pattems  is  quite  extensive,  though  not 
VARI11.TY  IN  FABRIC  PATTI1.RNS.        ^^  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^  .^  ^^  ordinary  printed 

Among  consumers  there  has  been  a  material.     The  prices  for  the  various 

prejudice  iu  regard  10  the  use  ci.  goods  fabrics  depend  upon  their  appearance, 

sucli  as  ttiat  auaiyzed,  mamly  because  and    inasmuch    as     special    processes 

tliey  have  aiways  beeu  accusiumed  to  often  bring  large  profits  this  is  noted 

having  spots    or    figures    01  a  woven  in    the    present    instance,  although  it 

character  aud  are  uot  willing   to   be-  might  be  said  that  such  fabrics  offered 

lieve  that  the  spots  or  figures  will  re-  when  the  demand  is  not  large  are  of- 

main     permanent     wben     a     washing  ten  sold  quite  low  and  lower  than  the 

process  is  employed.    One  of  the  ob-  cost  of  production.    The  style  of  the 

VATTKKN. 
2  2 

80/1  Sea  Island  combed  —     2,236     —     "=   2,300.   total  ends. 

16  16 

110/1   Sea  Island  combed   rilling,      tiu   picks  per   inch. 
3t>   leeu;    aiVa"    widili    in   reeU,    au"    vviam    giey,   iiii'A"   width    finished. 
76    X    6U   ^vcy   couut,    i&    X    t>u   nuisiiied   cuuiit. 

YAKNS. 

Labor, 
Cotton,         waste,  etc. 
SO/1  S.  1.  combed;   17-16"  staple;    16  hank  dou.  rov.,  Zi^/^c.  iSViC  =      61?ic. 

llU/1  S.  1.  cuiubed;      1^"  siapie;    Zo   liaaK  Uuu.    luv.,  2oc.  32  %c.  •=      57^0. 

COST. 

2.300  ends  80/1  S.  I.  combed  warp   +   4%  take-up =   .0357    @    51%c.      =  $  .0185 

«U  picks   llU/1   S.   1.    coiubeU   rilling =   .0;i05®57%c.      =  .0119 

Weaving    .0059 

litxpeuscs     .0051 

I  .0414 
Selling    (grey)    .0007 

Ground    fabric    cost    (grey) I  .0421 

Yards  per  pound  17. J»    (grey>. 
PicLtii    weave. 

Ueici.il  price  12  ^4c.   per  yard. 
Piliueu   wltli  a   bordered   pattern. 

jections    which    has    been    advanced  result  has  much  to  do  with  the  profit 

against  the  use  of  this  process  is  that  secured. 

aithcgh  the  spots  remain  hrm  when  THE  MAKING  OF  YARNS, 

the  fabric  is  washed  there  has  been  a  t,       -v^i              *  *i  „  ^^„*  ;^^. ,..!.„♦!«- 

tendency  for  the  figures  to  turn  to  a  ,  Possibly  one  of  the  most   nteresting- 

vellow     color     when    the    coods    are  features  relative  to  the  ground  fabric 

fronea.     TMs  is  m'ore  espefX  t?ue  ^^^'-^  '^'^  ^'^^XT  \'rf  n'X'  Tn^n? 

of    the    goods    which    have    ^    white  ,^°'''^°'^  "'^,  °'^T^^/  c°±.t°Jn; 

foundation  and  also  white  spots.     It  ^am  a  regulY  e     «         is  practically 

seems  that  the  heat  turns  the  glue  or  ^'    ^7^  necessary  lor  ine  cotton  to  oe 

composition  used  into  a  yellow  color  ^^^f^'^'    ^his  combing  process  eliml- 

and  this  makes  a  different-appearing  °f  ^^    ^  J^'^^P^'hT    °ln    e^on^Ir 

spot.    Of  the  developments  In  printini  ^^^/^   ^^^   ""n^^  n  ii«/nlr  Jtlwr 

noted  in  recent  years  one  of  the  most  tr^^T^beTade  than  a?e  otherw^L 

prominent  is  the  various  kinds  of  bor-  sizes  to  be  made  tlian  are  otnerwise 

dered  goods  somewhat  similar  to  the  T^'J^^t^^VllJ^'^rZ^^  ^^^nu 

embroidered  and  other  styles  of  goods  ^^^   ^^^"^  analyzed   can   be  made  on 

which  have  been  in  greater  or  less  de-  either  the  spinning  frame  or  the  mule 

mand     These  though    sizes    much    finer   than    those 

„^   ■   „„„ noted  are  usually  made  upon  the  mule. 

BORDERED  PRINTED  PATTERNS  a  much  greater  amount  of  care  must 

show  up  very  strongly  and   it   would  be  used   in   selecting   the   cotton   and 

seem  as  If  they  would  be  the  nearest  in  the  various  processes  employed  if 

approach   to   certain   of  the   embroid-  correct  results  are  secured.     The  cot- 

ered  crepes  and  similar  fabrics  of  any-  ton  fibre  is  seldom  beaten  as  much  in 


336 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


the  picking  processes  and  the  card 
draft  is  often  much  greater  than  for 
ordinary  work.     The 

CARD  PRODUCTION 
together  with  the  production  of  other 
machines  is  often  quite  a  little  small- 
er. At  the  spinning  frame  the  produc- 
tion is  radically  smaller  in  pounds  per 
week  than  for  the  yarns  which  com- 
pose most  ordinary  fabrics.  Due  to 
the  fineness  of  yarns  the  variation  in 
sizes  is  somewhat  greater  than  is 
usually  noted.  For  ordinary  40-1  a 
reasonable  variation  would  to  from 
38-1  to  42-1,  whereas  for  80-1  the  va- 
riation would  be  from  76-1  to  84-1, 
with  other  numbers  in  about  the  same 
proportion.  There  is  no  great  difficul- 
ty noted  in  obtaining  the  weights  of 
the  yarns  used  or  in  the  weight  of  the 
cloth  as  produced  at  the  loom.  The 
method  is  as  follows: 

2,300    ^     (S4.)    X     80/1)    =    .0343,    weight    of 

warp    yarn    without    take-up. 
4%   take-up   in   wenving. 
.0343    -;-    .96    =    .0357,    total    weight   of   warp 

yarn    per   yard    of    woven    cloth. 
60  picks  X  31 1/2"  reed  width  X  36" 

. =    1,890 

36" 

yards    of    filling-    per    woven    yard. 
1,890   -T-    (840    X   110/1)    =   .0205,    total  weight 

of  filling  yarn   per  woven   yard. 
.0357     +    .0205    =    .0562,    total    cloth    weight 

per  yard. 
1.0000   -¥-  .0562   =   17.79  yards  per  lb.    (grey). 


"PIQUE"  OR  "MARSEILLES." 

The  quilted  weave,  as  applied  to 
cotton  fabrics,  is  known  among  weav- 
ers as  the  "Marseilles"  weave.  It  is  a 
double  cloth,  the  face  being  a  moder- 
ately close,  pliin  weave.  The  back  is 
a  very  open,  plain  weave.  Between  the 
back  and  face  a  soft  twisted  heavy 
filling,  called  "stuffing,"  is  woven.  The 
two  cloths  are  stitched  together  at 
frequent  intervals  in  weaving,  the 
stitches  being  arranged  so  as  to  suffi- 
ciently bind  the  two  cloths  together, 
and  at  the  same  time  form  an  orna- 
mental design  or  pattern.  The  "stuf- 
fing" between  the  cloths  gives  the 
fabric    the   embossed    effect. 

THE    FACE 
being  plain  woven  is  drawn  into  hed- 
dles  as  for  sheeting.    The  back  is  also 
a  plain   weave,   but  the  back  warp  is 
also  the  quilting  warp,  and  has  to  be 


mounted  in  a  "jacquard"  harness,  un- 
less the  pattern  is  small  enough  to  be 
produced  on  a  "dobby."  Two  face 
threads  and  one  back  (or  quilting) 
thread  are  drawn  into  each  dent  ot 
reed.  The  construction  is  shown  in 
diagram,   Fig.   1. 


Two  threads  of  face  and  ..^a^^^  t'^'^i^ivZ"'' 
one      of      back      warp      are  3niiaOBF--'':r8 
drawn       Into       each       dent  mSyy^y  Back  niinj 
of    reed.      Back    warp    Is    on  □■■::■■  ^•"'*°'!  ^'I'og 
a   separate   beam,    and    con- OgBnoj '-'^  ^"'"'e 
tains    one-hulf    the    number  gJaffiBS  u»<:k  f"iing« 
of   threads    that    are   In    the  _.         ., 
face.  Fig.    1. 

nlnlicitcfl  thit  the  thread  ia  riiaed  by  the  J  icqu.rd  onljr  wli«n  used  for 
building  ^•:3hoii6  e  um-  ihread  when  r.*idtd  bjf  the  vomber  Lo^rd  regularly  to 
lorm  lue  buck.     *Uu«k  tihmg  eame  lu  tikix. 

THIS    CONSTRUCTION 

calls  for  a  loom  with  two  shuttle  boxes 
at  each  end  of  lathe.  Large  pat- 
terns require  a  "jacquard"  attachment, 
while  the  small  designs  may  be  made 
on  a  dobby  head;  also  two  warp  beams 
are  necessary.  In  operation  the  loom 
throws  in  one  back,  two  face  and  one 
stuffing  pick  in  regular  order.  To 
make  the  embossed  effect  show  up 
well  the  back  warp  is  woven  with  con- 
siderably more  tension  than  the  face. 

AS    AN    ARITHMETICAL    BASIS 

for  the  construction  of  this  fabric, 
about  11  times  the  square  root  of  the 
average  hank  number  on  face  and 
back  may  be  used.  The  "stuffing" 
should  be  four  times  as  heavy  as  the 
average  number  used  for  face  and 
back.  On  this  basis  a  Marseilles  quilt 
or  counterpane,  if  woven  with  average 
No.  35  on  face  and  back,  and  No.  8% 
stuffing  would  have: 

64  threads  per  Inch  of  No.  30  warp    on  i"ace. 

32         •■             30  ••       back. 

64  picks          42  filling  on  face. 

32       "               "     42  ■■       back. 

32       "              8%  ••  as  starting. 

and  if  woven  12  quarters  square,  would 
weigh  about  3  9-10  pounds  per  quilt; 
or  take  a  30-inch  vesting  fabric,  made 
of  average  No.  80  yarn  on  tace  and 
back  and  40  stuffing.  The  stuffing  yarn 
in  this  case  is  only  twice  the  weight 
of  the  face,  but  there  are  twice  as 
many  picks  relatively  thrown  in. 
There  is  no  back  filling  used  in  vest- 


A  COTTON  FABUICS  GLOSSARY 


d37 


Ings.  The  back,  when  not  used  In 
quilting,  is  floated.  The  organization 
would  be: 

98  threads  per  Inch  on  face, 

98  pickii        Average  No.  80. 

98       ■'  "        "       BtuHlne  No.  40. 

The  picks  are  thrown  In  two  face 
and  two  stuffing  regularly.  At  30 
Inches  wide  the  goods  would  weigh 
4  65-100  yards  per  pound. 

IN  THIS  EXAMPLE 
the  average  number  of  the  face  yarn 
is  given.  The  fabric  looks  and 
wears  better  if  warp  and  filling  on 
face  are  alike,  but  it  helps  the  weav- 
ing out  wonderfully  to  have  a  consid- 
erable difference  between  the  two,  the 
warp  being  from  10  to  20  per  cent 
heavier  than  the  filling. 

It  is  beyond  the  scope  of  an  elemen- 
tary article  like  this  to  attempt  any 
description  of  the  means  used  to  pro- 
duce the  ornate  designs  of  the  fabric. 
The  artist  who  originates  textile  de- 
signs must  draw  each  design  to  fit  the 
fabric  he  is  dealing  with.  Each  fabric 
has  its  special  characteristics  as  to  de- 
sign, and  each  also  has  its  limitations. 
The  characteristics  and  limits  of  the 
fabric  under  consideration  may  be 
here  stated. 

COLOR    EFFECTS. 

1.  Color  effects  are  hardly  admis- 
sible. Tlie  fabric  is  essenially  a  white 
one.  The  quilting  warp  is  sometimes 
colored,  so  as  to  show  a  pattern  com- 
posed of  colored  lines  and  dots  on  a 
white  ground.  The  design  Is  not 
thereby  altered,  for  the  pattern  woven 
with  colored  stitching  may  also  be 
woven   entirely   white. 

2.  The  fabric  admits  only  of  a  de- 
sign of  •"dots"  arranged  to  produce 
large  designs. 

3.  In  the  vestinps  and  fabrics  with 
small  i)atterns,  the  quilting  warp 
thieads.  wuen  noi  raised  to  make  a 
stitch,  are  floated.  The  dots  then 
should  be  arranged  so  as  to  a.  old 
very    long   flo  ts. 

4.  On  counterpanes  the  design  has 
to  be  very  large,  and  lias  to  be  pro- 
duced on  a  "jacquard"  machine  of  com- 
paratively small  capacity.  This  calls 
for  a  design  that  can  be  enlarged  In 


the  tie-up  of  the  harness  and  to  this 
end  certain  parts  of  the  design  are  ar- 
ranged so  as  to  admit  of  several  repe- 
titions. 

THE  NAME  "PIQUE" 
is  now  generally  applied  to  this  fabric 
when  woven  in  small  patterns  within 
the  capacity  of  the  "dobby."  This 
name  pirticularly  applies  when  the 
goods  are  to  be  used  for  ladies'  and 
children's  dresses,  men's  shirt  fronts, 
etc.  However,  the  fabric  that  is  called 
"pique"  when  used  for  dresses  or 
shirt  fronts  would  be  a  "[Marseilles" 
if  made  up  into  a  rran's  vest.  The 
name  "pique"  is  probably  from  the 
French  "piquer,"  to  quilt  or  prick  with 
a  needle.  Possibly  the  name  "Mar- 
seilles" is  also  a  corruption  of  the 
French  "matelas,"  a  quilt  or  mattress. 

A  CORDED  "MARSEILLES," 
or  "pique"  is  essentially  the  same  fab- 
ric as  the  figured  article,  but  is  woven 
rather  differently.  The  warp  is  drawn 
into  a  three-shed  harness  like  a  com- 
rr.on  three-shed  twill.  To  produce  the 
corded  effect  the  harnesses  are  op- 
erated by  a  dobby.  Two  warps  are 
used  as  in  the  preceding  cases,  one 
warp  having  twice  as  many  threads  as 
the  other;  the  quilting  warp  is  drawn 
into  the  back  harness,  the  face  warp 
in  the  middle  and  front.  The  pegging 
plan  of  dobby  chain  is  shown  at  Fig.  2. 

lit 


DIB  Slufling 

OBI 

□  >□  face  flilm 

DGB 


I  fucc  fl1Iio| 


As  this  weave  calls  for  four  picks  of 
face  filling  and  two  picks  of  stuffing  in 
succession,  the  lathe  need  only  hav© 
drop  bo.xes  on  one  end. 

QUILT  WEAVE  GOODS 
should  be  fnished  so  as  to  preserve, 
as  far  as  possible,  the  convexity  or 
puff  of  the  quilting.  To  this  end,  after 
bleaching  and  sizing,  they  should  be 
dried    on    tenter-hooks.       The     piect» 


Ui 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


goods  can  be  dried  on  the  tenterlng 
machine,  through  which  they  should 
run  lace  down.  The  quilts  or  coun- 
terpanes are  handled  singly,  and  are 
stretched  on  square  tentering  frames 
and  dried  in  a  hot  room.  There  is  a 
fabric  on  the  market  called  "P  K," 
which  is  often  confounded  with 
"pique,"  the  names  having  the  same 
sound.  "P  K"  is  a  float  weave  and 
the  fabric  bears  no  relation  to  "pique" 
or  "Marseilles." 


Cotton  Wash  Fabric. 

A  tuck  fabric  is  a  single  cloth  and 
is  made  by  using  two  or  more  warps, 
is   generally   composed   of   all   cotton. 


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cotton  and  silk,  and  all  silk,  and  can 

be  made  on  any  loom  having  either  a 

dobby  or  a  jacquard  attachment,  and 

single    or    double    box,     double     box 

looms,   of  course,   giving  great   scope 

for  filling  patterns. 


A  tuck  effect  in  a  cloth  is  a  perfect 
pleat  running  across  the  cloth  from 
one  selvage  to  the  other  and  was  used 
extensively  a  lew  years  ago  in  making 
fancv  boForrs  for  n'en'<5  outi">g  or 
neglige  shirts  and  ladies'  waisting, 
very  elaborate  ehects  being  proauced 
by  wea\ing  ground  cloth  in  colors 
either  harmonizing  with  or  contrast- 
ing to  that  of  the  tuck. 

Two  different  numbers  of  filling  are 
used  in  this  labric,  namely,  a  fine  one 
for  the  plain  ground  or  flat  part  of  the 
cloth,  and  a  coarse  nun:ber  for  the 
tuck,  as  the  tuck  is  a  filling  effect,  and 
the  coarse  filling  causing  it  to  stand 
out  aore  prominently  fro  n  the  ground 
fabric  than  would  be  the  case  if  fine 
numbers  of  filling  were  used  to  form 
the  whole  fabric. 

In  making  a  common  tuck  effect  two 
beams  are  necessary,  also  10  harness 
or  heddle  shafts.  The  top  beam  con- 
taining the  tuck  warp  is  drawn  in  on 
the  2,  4,  6,  8th  harnesses,  and  the  bot- 
tom beam,  containing  ground  warp,  is 
drawn  on  1,  3,  5,  7th  harnesses,  the 
other  two  harnesses  to  work  inde- 
pendently for  selvage,  plain  weave  be- 
ing used  all  the  time. 

The  harness  or  head  chain  is  pegged 
to  work  all  the  harnesses  plain  weave 
at  the  sam.e  time  for  whate-er  length 
of  plain  ground  is  desired  in  the  cloth 
being  woven.  "For  example,  if  you 
want  40  picks  plain  ground  cloth  be- 
fore weaving"  the  tuck,  sinply  peg 
the  chain  plain  weave  on  all  harnesses 
for  40  picks.  Then  to  form  the  tuck 
peg  the  chain  so  as  to  work  only  tuck 
harnesses  for  plain  weave  for  num- 
ber picks  necessary  to  give  lengih  of 
tuck  desired,  the  ground  harnesses  be- 
ing at  rest. 

While  the  tuck  harnesses  are  work- 
ing, the  take-up  motion  is  temporarily 
dispensed  with  by  coupling  the  take- 
up  finger  to  a  jack  in  the  head  motion 
by  running  a  strap  over  the  top  of  the 
loom  and  down  the  side.  After  having 
woven  the  desired  number  of  picks 
to  form  the  tuck,  as  the  loom  turns 
over,  all  the  harnesses  are  set  work- 
ing plain  weave,  and  as  the  first  pick 
of  the  chiin  operates  the  head  motion, 
the  take-up  finger  drops,  the  take-up 
motion  is  again  in  gear,  and  the  reed 
beats  in,  the  pick  binding  the  turn  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


339 


throwing  it  out  from  the  ground  fab- 
ric. 

This  fabric  is  generally  made  to  fin- 
ish from  21/^  to  314  ounces  and  27 
inches   wide. 

CONSTRUCTION  COMMON  TUCK. 

1,300  reed,  2  ends  per  split,  1  end  per 
heddle,  29  inches  width  in  reed,  in- 
cluding selvage;  1,036  plus  16  splits, 
2,072  plus  64  ends.  Ground  warp  and 
tuck  warp,  l-40s  cotton;  70  picks  per 
inch  l-40s  cotton  filling.  7  per  cent 
shrinkage  in  width  in  weaving  and 
fnishing;  10  per  cent  shrinkage 
length  finishing  and  weaving. 

Tuck  pattern :  46  picks  l-40s  cotton 
for  plain  ground;  32  picks  2-20s  cot- 
ton for  tuck.  Selvage,  4  in  a  heddle 
and  split.    Finish  about  3i^  ounces. 


SCRIM 


Scrim.  A  loose  woven,  flimsy-look- 
ing cloth,  con^posed  entirely  of  two- 
ply  cotton  yarn,  both  warp  and  filling, 
and  resen.bles  a  fine  meshed  fish  net. 

Scrim  is  usually  made  in  bright  col- 
ored stiipe  and  plaid  effects.  It  is  pe- 
culiarly adapted  to  the  draper's  art,  as 
it  is  a  light-weight  creation,  there- 
lore  soft  and  pliable;  it  is  also  used  as 
a  fly  net  for  horses  in  the  summev 
time. 

Scrim  Is  made  of  2-20s  cotton,  dry 
color,  in  both  warp  and  filling,  and  as 
a  fabric  requires  nothing  in  the  na- 
ture of  a  finish  except  being  run 
throrgh  a  hot  p'-ess,  simply  to  smooth 
the  wrinkles  which  n^ay  occur  during 
the  process  of  weaving. 

By  using  3-lis  and  4-lOs  cotton 
warp  and  filling,  and,  of  course,  in 
proper  proportions,  we  produce  ham- 
mocks and  material  for  laundry  bags 
with  this  same  scrim  weave,  or,  to  be 
correct,  gauze  weave.  Scrim  can  be 
woven  in  any  power  loom,  but  best 
results  are  obtained  by  using  a  light 
running  loom.    The 

FCR1M  WEAVE  OR  LACY  EFFECT 
can  be  produced  by  using  a  regular 
doupe  set  oi  harness,  but  the  best, 
quickest  and  cheapest  method  is  by 
using   an    attachment   known    as   the 


Ashoff  motion,  which  Is  an  Improved 
set  of  harness  or  heddle  and  heddle 
shafts  built  especially  for  this  kind  of 
effects  in  cloth.    This  motion  consists 


1 

1     I 

<u        s 

5    a 


4tb 
Orel 

1st  pick 


■^     1 


0 

0 

0    . 

J 

T 

i 

-- 

i 

/ 

I 

s 

: 

1 

y 

1 

1 

IP 

/ 

1 

~  Tl 

1 

j\ 

- 

f 

■  - 

1 

I 

■ 

^ 

-^M 

\ 

■ 

1 

B 

im 

*■¥: 

L 

±: 

Ground  haroess 

of  Doupe  tet 
(iruuiid  harness 

Standard 
Skeleton  harness 

Reed  plan 


■oa  \ 

■■a  f  Harness 

DDO 


chain. 


This  weave  applies  to  a,  fabric  (scrim)  In 
which  the  Doupe  set  Is  working  every  pick. 
and  each  Warp  thread  working  with  a  mate 
thread,    and    producing    perfect    Leno    effect. 

NOTE. — In  drawing  in  the  Ground  thread 
crosses   over    the    Doupe    thread. 

of  two  heavy  wooden  frames  built 
similar  to  heddle  frames  and  suspend- 
ed in  the  loom  from  the  top  roller,  in 
the  manner  in  which  old  roller  looms 
were  equipped  for  weaving  gingham. 
In  place  of  heddles  these  frames 
are  filled  with  a  coarse  reed,  in  ac- 
cordance with  number  of  splits  per 
inch  required  for  fabric;  these  reed 
dents  are  plugged  with  lead,  alter- 
nately top  and  bottom,  and  two  ends 
are  drawn  straight  through  both  har- 
nesses. 

THE    ASHOFF    MOTION 
makes    a    shed    in    the    regular    roller 
loom  style  or  by  treddle  or  cam,  and 
has    likewise    a    sideway     movement. 


340 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


which  is  obtained  by  placing  a  small 
eccentric  on  the  bottom   loom   shaft. 

Near  the  side  oi  loom  this  eccentric 
is  connected  by  a  one  hall'  inch  iron 
red  with  a  pair  of  bevel  gears  which 
are  fastened  on  the  loom  traaie  at  a 
point  equal  to  the  center  of  the  shed. 
These  ^ears  are  in  turn  coupled  by 
smaller  reds  to  the  heddle  frames,  and 
create  the  side  motion,  which  allows 
the  threads  to  operate  in  a  sort  of 
rolling  motion  or,  in  other  words,  each 
thread  rolls  half-way  round  its  mate 
thread  and  the  filling  pick,  binding  it 
in,  and  on  tlie  next  pick  the  roll  is  re- 
versed, and  this  creates  tlie  lacy  ef- 
fect. In  addition  to  the  motion  men- 
tioned, there  are  various  sLyles  of 
patented  heddles  now  used  for  weav- 
ing wliat  is  known  as  ordinary  gauze, 
or  where  the  two  leno  threads  chaugw 
every  pick.  In  some  cases  these  pa- 
tented heddles  are  constructed  upon  a 
sliding  sleeve  idea,  where  the  center 
of  the  heddle  slides  up  and  down,  and 
inasmuch  as  it  holds  tlie  leno  thread, 
it  makes  a  crossing  when  this  occurs. 
In  other  instances,  the  heddles  are 
somewhat  similar  to  the  ones  ordi- 
narily used,  tut  the  doup  is  also  made 
from  steel,  and  in  certain  cases  thcse 
have  given  better  results  than  older 
methods.  Possibly  there  are  a  half- 
dozen  or  n:ore  of  these  patented  hed- 
dles, which  are  sometimes  used  in 
making  leno  fabrics.  Use  regular  2-20s 
cotton  yarns  and  set  the  warp  about 
44  inches  in  the  reed,  20  ends  and  20 
picks  per  inch;  will  weigh  about  l^ 
ounces  and  measure  about  36  inches 
wide  from  loom. 

FOR  LAUNDRY    BAGS 
use  4-lOs  cotton  in   the  gray;    set  30 
inches  in  reed,  three  ends  and  three 
picks    per    inch;    will    run    25    inches 
from  Ico.ii;  no  finish. 

In  hammocks  very  elaborate  effects 
are  made  up  with  the  scrim  weave  as 
applied  to  the  harness  loom.  Diamond 
twill  and  fancy  colors  are  a  favorite 
con:bination  and  make  a  good  selling 
line. 

4-lOs  cotton  yarn  (warp  filling);  42 
inches  in  reed;  14  ends  per  inch;  one 
end  per  dent;  14  picks;  stripe  pat- 
terns. No  finish,  as  cloth  is  made  Into 
hammocks  straight  from  loom. 


HAMMOCK  CRASH 

This  cloth,  as  the  name  implies,  is 
used  in  the  making  of  hammocks.  It 
is  made  strong  snd  durable  to  stand 
the  strain  and  wear  that  it  is  subject- 
ed to  and  can  be  woven  on  almost  any 
ordinary  loom.  It  is  generally  made  in 
three  grades,  viz.,  best,  m.edium  and 
low. 

The  best  grades  are  generally  made 
on  the  jacquard  loom,  so  that  very 
elaborate  patterns  may  be  introduced. 

A  400  tie-up  is  generally  used,  but 
any  tie  may  be  used  according  to  the 
requirements  of  the  design  and  quaKty 
of  the  cloth. 

The  warp  is  generally  composed  of 
three  or  four  or  more  colors  of  yarn, 
the  colors  being  very  bright  and  con- 
trasting, such  colors  as  green,  red, 
gold  and  black  taking  a  prominent 
part. 

The  design  is  generally  an  extensive 
and  elaborate  one  and  in  stripe  form, 
but  designs  of  the  following  character 
are  sometirres  employed,  with  partic- 
ulars as  follows: 


Warp:  |  cotton,  as  sample,  20  ends 
per  1  in.,  10  x  2  reed,  46  in.  wide  in 
reed. 

Filling:  g  cotton,  as  sam.ple,  18  picks 
per  1  in. 

The  warp  is  woven  with  an  e^en 
tension  and  where  a  gau'^e  or  leno 
weave  is  used,  two  or  more  bea-^s  are 
necessary  and  the  necessary  slackners, 
etc. 

When  the  warn  is  composed  of  sev- 
eral colors  of  yarn,  the  filling  is  gen- 
erally used  undyed  or  in  one  solid 
color. 

Semifancies  (generaMy  of  medium 
qrality)  and  plain  or  lower  erade 
cloths  may  be  woven  on  v>arnes^  Hot's 
(16  to  24  harnesses  being  -employed). 
Plain  or  lower  grade  cloths  are  so-re- 
times  woven  in  looms  having  a  cross- 
weaving    or     gauze-reed    attachment 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


841 


when  the  weave  is  a  gauze  or  leno, 
which  is  generally  the  case. 

These  cloths  (medium  grade)  are 
not  made  as  strong  and  compact  a.A 
the  first  quality,  the  particulars  being 
as  follows: 

Warp:  14  ends  per  1  in.,  i  cotton,  7 
X  2  dent  reed. 

Filling:  12  picks  per  1  in.,  §  cot- 
ton. 

The  weave  is  generally  a  semifancy 
one,  that  is,  plain  weave  for  2  or  3  in., 
and  then  a  gauze  stripe  or  gauz« 
stripes  at  irregular  intervals  across 
the  warps.  The  colorings  in  warp  are 
similar  to  the  first  grade  colorings, 
and  the  design  is  less  elaborate,  some- 
times on  the  following  order: 


)/l 


I 


Repeat    several    times. 

The  cheapest  qualities  are  much 
lighter  in  weight  and  more  open  in 
texture,  the  particulars  being  as  fol- 
lows: 

Warp:  8  ends  per  1  in.,  |  cotton,  8 
dent  reed  x  2;  mess  every  other  dent. 

Filling:   7  picks  per  1  in.,  §  cotton. 

The  weave  is  generally  a  gauze  one, 
one  that  is  largely  used,  being  3  picks 
plain  and  1   pick  gauze. 

This  quality  is  often  made  with  un- 
dyed  cotton  warp  and  filling  and  ia 
dyed  in  the  piece  a  solid  color.  It 
may  also  be  made  with  colored  warp 
threads,  but  on  account  of  the  scarcity 
of  warp  threads  less  effective  results 
are  obtained  than  in  the  first  two 
grades. 

A  typical  sample  is  herewith  en- 
closed, but  is  a  little  better  quality 
than  the  particulars  given  refer  to. 

These  cloths  are  generally  made  by 
manufacturers  who  make  up  their  own 
cloths  into  hammocks  and  sell  in  this 
toTxa, 


They  require  no  finishing,  as  they 
are  made  up  into  hammocks  in  the 
condition  as  taken  from  the  looms,  ex- 
cept in  cases  where  the  goods  are  to 
be  dyed. 

In  making  hammocks,  hangings  or 
draperies  are  employed  and  these 
cloths  are  closely  related  to  the  ham- 
mock cloth.  They  are  made  on  the 
same  looms  as  hammock  cloths  and 
are  of  the  same  texture. 


■■OBDaaMaoaaaDD 

DaaaaaaaaoaDBDaa 
aDaaaaaooaDBDaar 
BQaaaaDnaDBDr 
agaaaoaaaaaci 


gaaaaaaDBaaaiBaa 
BaaaBaaGGaBaaaa 
aaaaaaaQoiioaoaa 

SaaaQaaaalQaDiaa 
oaDaDaaaoaoaQaa 
□■aaaDaaaaaaaaaa 
gaaoaaaaaaaGaaaa 
OBoaiaaaDaoaaaoa 


jBaDgaoBDaaDaaa 

BGBOC 

DQaaac 

^jonaai. 

QBiQaaaanaDaGGBB 


SOfaaaaDaaoaaGa 
BGBDQBiar 

JDDaaaaaapc 
faonaGaaaui 


jaBGOBGBQaaaGB 

BnaGaaGaaaaaaaaa 
BGaGaaDoaGanaaa 
BoaoaaaaaaaoaoaB 

Fig.    1. 

The  yarn  used  is  the  same  general- 
ly, but  the  cloth  need  not  be  as  strong 
as  the  body  cloth.  The  ends  and  pickt. 
per  1  in.  may  be  a  little  lower.  The 
drapery  cloths  are  made  two  in  a 
width,  there  being  12  in.  or  14  in.  of 
the  reed  empty  between  the  two 
cloths.   The  filling  is  thrown  across  in 


Fig.  2. 

the  regular  manner,  and  when  the 
cloth  is  woven,  the  filling  is  cut  in  the 
center  of  space  between  the  cloths, 
and  the  ends  thus  formed  constitute 
the  fringe  of  the  hangings,  which 
fringe  is  knotted  in  various  ways  to 
make  the  hanging  more  effective. 

In  order  to  secure  the  warp  threads 
ftt  the   Inside  edge  of  drapery  wUHq 


342 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


weaving,  the  two  ends  nearest  the 
fringe  side  are  made  to  cross  each 
other  in  weaving  and  make  a  firm  sel- 
vage for  the  actual  cloth. 

The  warp  yarn  may  be  either  in  col- 
ored stripe  form  or  solid  color,  and 
the  filling  solid  color,  or  both  warp 
and  filling,  may  be  in  undyed  state 
and  dyed  in  the  piece  when  woven. 

The  draperies  are  made  to  match 
the  body,  similar  colorings  and  de- 
signs  being   employed. 

WEAVES    TO    EMPLOY. 

The  best  qualities  have  generally 
jacquard  effects,  and  as  the  texture  is 
not  so  compact,  the  pliin  weave  must 
be  used  extensively  in  ground,  the 
figure  being  either  5  harness  satin  or 
3—1  twill. 

The  medium  qualities  as  made  on 
harness  looms  have  weaves  as  shown 
in  Figure  1,  the  plain  weave  being 
conspicuous  in  order  to  make  a  firm 
cloth. 

Low  grade  cloths  are  made  almost 
exclusively  with  the  gauze  weave,  Fig- 
ure 2  being  a  typical  one. 


MADRAS 


Madras  is  a  light-weight  cotton 
cloth,  composed  of  all  cotton  or  cotton 
and  silk,  and  is  a  single  cloth  fabric, 
having   excellent   wearing   qualities. 

It  has  been  on  the  market  for  many 
years  and  is  considered  a  staple  in  the 
cotton  goods  line.  It  is  a  narrow  fabric 
sold  at  27  inches  wide,  and  is  made  of 
varying  grades,  weighing  from  two 
to  three  ounces  per  yard,  and  Is  used 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  Is  used 
by  the  ladles  for  summer  skirts,  shirt- 
waist suits,  etc.;  by  men  for  shirts, 
shirt  bosoms,  and  four-in-hand  and 
bow  neckties.  It  is  also  used  as  a 
drapery  in  workmen's  homes  for  win- 
dows, etc. 

It  Is  known  by  the  plain  white 
ground  and  fancy  colored,  narrow 
stripe  warp  effects,  and  Is  made  of  cot- 
ton yarns  ranging  from  l-26s  to  l-80s 
warp  and  filling,  and  from  50  to  100 
or  more  ends  per  Inch.  The  knowl- 
edge of  the  utility  of  madras  being 
common  among  most  all  classes  of 
people,  permits  of  the  greatest  scope 


in  creating  both  harmonious  and  con- 
trasting colors  and  weave  combina- 
tions, simplicity  in  color  arrangement 
being  generally  the  keynote  to  suc- 
cess in  producing  an  elegant,  good- 
selling  line. 

COLORS. 

Those     colors     most     in     demand, 
which  have  been  adapted  to  this  fab- 
ric,  are  rich   and   delicate    shades   of 
blue,    rose,    green,    linen,    tan,    laven 
der,  ecru  and   bright  red. 

For  prominent  hair  line  effects  use 
black,  navy  blue,  dark  green,  royal 
blue  and  cherry  red.  Good  fast  color 
is  necessary  in  making  madras,  as  it 
is  a  wash  fabric,  the  feature  of  which 
is  the  fine  colored  stripe  effect  run- 
ning warp  ways. 

If  inferior  colors  are  used,  they  will 
surely  spread  during  the  finishing 
process,  and  will  cause  a  clouded 
stripe  where  a  distinct  one  was  in- 
tended, thereby  causing  a  pile  of  sec- 
onds. Madras  used  in  making  men's 
stiff  bosom  shirts,  which  retail  at 
$1.50  and  upward,  in  most  cases  is 
made  entirely  with  a  plain  weave. 

Sometimes  the  colored  stripe  is  de- 
veloped by  doubling  up  In  the  heddle 
and  reed  (by  drawing  In  two  or  more 
ends  In  one  heddle,  and  the  threads 
of  several  heddles  in  one  split  in  the 
reed). 

ANOTHER  METHOD. 

Another  method  Is  to  weave  the 
colored  warp  threads  on  other  har- 
nesses than  those  of  the  body  of  the 
cloth,  using  a  twill  weave  on  these 
harnesses,  and  by  doing  so  create  a 
perfect  cord  in  the  cloth. 

High-grade  patterns  are  usually 
formed  by  making  a  plain  white  stripe 
from  y2  Inch  to  1^^  Inches  in  width, 
and  the  colored  stripe  of  2,  4,  6,  8 
ends.  In  using  any  of  these  numbers 
of  ends,  the  width  of  the  colored 
stripe  Is  governed  by  the  fineness  of 
reed,  and  method  of  drawing  through 
the  reed,  consistent  with  the  weave 
effect  desired. 

Fancy  madras  Is  made  more  suc- 
cessfully on  the  dobby  loom,  20-har- 
ness  capacity  covering  most  all  com- 
binations used  In  this  line. 

A  good  grade  of  madras  is  made  by 
using  l-30s  cotton  warp  and  filling. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


343 


1,200  reed,  two  ends  per  dent;  31  ^^ 
inches  in  reed;  56  piclss,  l-SOs  fill- 
ing; finish,  27  inches;  weight,  2% 
ounces. 

WARP    PATTERN. 
14   White     1-308 1 

1  White     2-408  y  Plain  weave. 
14  White     1-308  J 

4   Rose  1-308. ..  .Basket  weave. 
10   White   1-30S..  .Plain  weave. 

4  Ureen  1-30b...  .Bavket  weave. 

47 

Finish  for  madras:  Run  through 
washer,  cylinder  (to  dry  cloth),  ten- 
tering  machine,  calender  or  press. 


Finishing  Particulars. 

Starch,    6    ounces      cornstarch,      2 
ounces  white  cocoanut  oil  softening,  1 


1  per  cent  new  methylene  blue  G  G, 
%  per  cent  thioflavine  T.  Wash  well. 
PINK. 
Mordant  yarn  with  2  per  cent  tannic 
acid.  Give  5  turns  and  fix  with  2  per 
cent  tartar  enietic.  Wash  well.  Dye 
9  ounces  acridine  red  6  B.,  3  ounces 
rhodamine  3  G.  C.  BischofE  &  Com- 
pany.   Wash  well. 


GINGHAM  (Common) 

Gingham  (common)  is  a  single  cloth 
composed  entirely  of  cotton  and 
always  woven  with  a  plain  weave; 
it  is  the  most  universally  known  fab- 
ric on  the  market  and  is  made  in  va- 
rious grades,  having  from  50  to  76 
ends  rer  inch  in  the  reed  and  of 
l-26s   to    l-40s   cotton   yarns   in   both 


? 


One 


^  Design. 

aBaBoaaaoaaaaaaaaaaBDanaaBDaDaGBaaaDaDaaHoaoDBB 
BaaaBDBaBaBoaDix'aBOBaBQaaaaaaBDDBMBDBDBaBaBOGGBa 
DBDaaBDBDBnBDaGBnBDBaaDBDaaBDBaGcaaaBGBDBCBBagD 
BDBDaaaDBDBaaafflDaDaaanaDaDaaaBBaaaDaDBDBDaDBBDg 

[DBaaDBnBDBDBGBDBDBDBaBDBnBnBDnDBBCBnanBDBDBaDBa 

iy"y-y-_„-„_^,pgmmr^pmQ,Q,o,gc,B,n,cBDaoBCDDBB 
jBcaoBCBaBaaoaGBDaaaacBcanBGBnBBBaD 
iGSDBaaGaDaDaaaDaaaaaaaacBGBGBaBaaa 


Harness  Chain. 


BUBUWJBUBUBUBL 

SoaDBGaaaGBGagi 
BGBGBaaaBGBaac 
DBGBGBOBGBGBGI 
aDaaaDBGBGaaac 


ziBaana 
inBDca 
:iBnBBn 
■GBoaa 


Drawing-in  Draft. 


DDDOCDaaDOODDDDDnaDDCnnanOOanDCBBnDDDCDDDGDCrBB 

DDaDaoaDaDannaDCGOGaGaoGDDOGCBBaGGDCDDccGccaBDn 
□DaaDGaBQGDaDaaaDaaaaaGBGGGBaDaaoQBnDDBCCDBDDng 
□aaaGaaaacaaoQaaaaaDaaaaGCBooGGCcBaGGBCocBDGgpg 
DaGDaaaoGBGacaQGGaaauaDGcaPGGGGQCCCcaQDGBGnCLgg 
BDoaaDacBDoaaDDaBaDaaDGDacacacDcaaDBDCCBCOGCccD 

Reed  Plan. 

DDBBGaBBGGBBGaBaGBBGaBBDDBBaDBBGaBBaaBBDGBBnCBB 

■aLOBBoaBBaDBaaBBaaBBaaBBaaBBaaBBGGBBGaBBaDBaain 

Note — Design  Is  two  repeats  In  filling,   and   Is   Intended   to   show   connec- 
tion between  first  and  second  repeat. 


gallon    water.     Calender    with     light 
calender  machine. 


Dyeing   Particulars  for   Madras. 

Following  are  dyeing  particulars  for 
good  madras  shades: 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

Mordant  yarn  with  2  per  cent  tannic 
acid.  Give  5  turns  and  fix  with  2  per 
cent  tartar-emetic.     Wash  well.     Dye 


warp  and  filling.  It  is  a  wash  fabric, 
made  in  both  check  and  plaid  pat- 
terns, into  which  an  almost  unlimited 
variety  of  color  combinations  are  in- 
troduced. It  is  most  comrronly  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  and  chil- 
dren's aprons  and  summer  outing 
dresses. 

It  can  be  woven  in  any  power  loom 
having  a  box  motion  attached,  using 
four-harness  or  heddle  s'lafts,  and 
having  as  a  selvage  eight  double  ends 
on  each  side. 


844 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


There  are  many  mills  which  are 
now  using  automatic  looms  for  the 
production  of  ordinary  ginghams.  Of 
course,  the  advantage  gained  is  not 
quite  as  large  as  when  ordinary  grey 
fabrics  are  being  produced,  but,  rela- 
tively, it  places  a  manufacturer  in  an 
advantageous  position,  as  far  as  com- 
petition is  concerned.  Undoubtedly, 
a  great  rcany  more  of  these  looms  will 
be  used  in  the  future,  the  only  great 
reason  why  more  of  them  have  not 
been  installed  being  because  of  the 
limited  finances  of  various  concerns 
and  the  fact  that  many  manufacturers 
are  opposed  to  throwing  out  any  ma- 
chines which  seem  to  be  giving  sat- 
isfactory service,  even  though  the 
cost  of  production  is  rather  high. 

Gingham  warps  are  made  in  two 
lengths,  720  and  1,080  yards,  and 
these  lengths  are  subdivided  into 
shorter  lengths  or  cuts,  usually  14  and 
21,  respectively. 

When  a  gingham  warp  is  woven  out 
the  set  of  harnesses  or  heddles  are 
taken  out  of  the  loom  and  placed 
in  a  twisting  frame  and  twisted,  an 
operation  which  means  the  fastening 
together,  by  m.eans  of  the  fingers,  of 
those  ends  remaining  in  the  set  of 
harness,  and  those  of  the  new  warp. 
A  practiced  operator  can  accomplish 
this  work  at  the  rate  of  50  to  60  ends 
per  minute,  and  he  is  generally  a  boy 
of  perhaps  16  years  of  age. 

Loom  fixers  each  have  a  section  of 
looms,  numbering  about  60,  to  care  for 
and  keep  in  good  running  order, 

FINISHING   GINGHAMS. 

The  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom 
and  conveyed  to  the  wareroom,  and 
the  ends  of  several  pieces  or  cuts  are 
sewn  (chain  stitch)  together  on  a 
sewing  machine,  thus  making  a  con- 
tinuous length  of  cloth  of  sever3l  hun- 
dred yards,  about  300  yards.  (This  is 
done  to  facilitate  handling.) 

It  is  now  run  through  the  sprinkler, 
the  object  of  which  is  to  dampen  the 
cloth  in  such  a  manner  as  to  improve 
its  receptive  qualities  in  the  sizing  op- 
eration. 

The  sprinkler  is  a  machine  having  a 
box  arranged  on  its  top.  Through  this 
box  is  passed  a  roller  having  bristles 
set  on  end  at  regular  Intervals,  similar 


to  the  brush  In  a  carpet  sweeper;  the 
box  is  fed  with  water  by  means  of  a 
small  pipe,  and  the  cloth  on  entering 
the  machine  passes  over  the  roller 
brush,  which  in  revolving  comes  in 
contact  with  the  water,  and  spreads  it 
over  the  cloth,  which  is  drawn 
through  the  machine  by  means  of  de- 
livery rollers  at  the  opposite  end. 

From  the  sprinkler,  it  goes  to  the 
size  tubs,  where  it  is  given  a  good 
amount  of  starch  sizing.  It  is  next  run 
through  the  cylinders  to  dry  it,  and 
then  run  through  the  tentering  ma- 
chine, which  operation  is  a  continu- 
ing of  the  drying  process,  also  stretch- 


Gingham. 


ing  the  cloth  in  width.  It  Is  then  pass- 
ed through  the  calender,  which  is  a 
sort  of  hot  press,  and  in  which  opera- 
tion it  is  smoothed,  and  receives  the 
desired  glaze  on  the  face  of  the  cloth. 
From  the  calender  the  cloth  goes  to 
the  lapping  machine,  where  it  is  roll- 
ed around  a  small  wooden  board, 
known  as  a  lapboard,  the  operator 
making  a  bolt  of  each  cut  of  cloth, 
the  length  of  which  is  governed  by 
the  subdivision  of  warp. 

After  the  lapping  operation,  the 
cloth,  which  is  now  in  the  shape  of  a 
bolt  (commercial  term),  is  taken  by 
the  folder,  who  unravels  a  couple  of 
yards  and  doubles  it  up,  and  neatly 


A  COTTON  FABRIC3  GLOSSARY 


346 


rolls  It  back  in  place,  while  he  tucks 
in  the  ends.  The  bolt  is  then  stitched 
with  a  strong  cord,  twice  througli 
each  end;  the  ends  are  then  singed 
with  a  gas  flan.e  to  remove  odd  scraps 
of  filling  threads.  The  bolts  of  cloth 
are  then  placed  in  a  plate  press  in 
the  following  order:  three  or  four 
bolts  are  laid  flat  side  by  side  in  the 
press,  and  a  zinc  or  other  metal  plate 
placed  upon  them.  This  Is  repeated 
until  the  press  is  filled  with  desired 
number  of  pieces  or  bolts,  the  top  of 
the  press  is  then  run  down  by  means 
of  a  belt  connecting  with  a  driving 
shaft,  and  the  goods  allowed  to  re- 
main in  this  condition  several  hours, 
after  which  the  paper  bands  are  plac- 
ed around  them  and  they  are  ready  for 
shipment.  The  following  is  a  list  of 
standard  gingham  patterns,  known  as 
two  shuttle  checks  and  usually  made 
in  blue,  brown,  green,  black  and  red. 
Warp  and  filling:  2-2.  4-4.  6-6,  8-8. 
10-10,  12-12.  14-14.  16-16,  18-18,  20- 
20.  24-24.  the  pattern  reading: 


2  Blue  ^ 
2  White 


-   24  Btue 
24  White 


Warp 

and 

fllUne. 


For  side  pattern   effects   use  same 
colors: 

4—2,   8—4,    6—4,  10—6.   20— XO. 


10—6 — 2 — 6 


6—4—2 — I 


Read    In    this    manner 
10  B'ue 
6   White 
2  Blue 
6  White 


Warp  and  fllllnff. 


Staple  ginghams  are  known  to  the 
mill  man  as  90O,  1,200,  1,400,  meaning 
900  reed,  1,200  reed,  1.400  reed.  Those 
made  with  a  1,400  reed  are  usually  In- 
tended as  an  imitation  of  zephyr  ging- 
hams. 

A  good  grade  of  ginghams  can  be 
made -thus:  reed.  i900 — two  ends  per 
dent;. 29  inches  in  width;  44  picks  fill- 
ing. Finish,  27  Inches.  Check  pattern. 
Weight  about  2.1  ounces;  1-268  cotton 
warp  and  filling.    Plain  weave. 

A  better  grade  thus:  reed.  1,200 — 
two  ends  per  dent;  29  Inches  In 
width;    52   picks    filling.     Finish,    27 


Inches;  weight  2%  ounces;  l-SOs  cot- 
ton warp  and  filling;  generally  stripe 
patterns;   plain  weave. 

A  fine  grade  thus:  reed,  1,400 — 
two  ends  per  dent;  29  inches  in 
width;  60  picks  filling.  Finish,  27 
inches;  weight  two  ounces;  l-40s  cot- 
ton warp  and  filling.  Check  or  plaid 
pattern,  plain  weave. 


Is 


Design. 

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aaanDDBDBDBnDDCDDDBOBDBa 

DDQDDaDBOBaanDuaaaDHDBCB 

DDaDaDBDBaaQonuOQDBDBDBD 

oaDDaaaBuBDBDaGDauGBDBay 
aaQaDCBn«aBQjnDLjaDBc«D«a 
□■GaaBaaaaaaaaaaoaBaBBBa 
BaaGBaBBABaaBGaaBDBBBBBa 
aanaGBBtiiii5fijBauiaaoaaBaaBB 
aaaDau>-::iB£5d5t^aacBDaDaBaaBa 
oaaBDaa<£a>:iBauarjBGaaBaBBa 
■aaDaaaafjaaBauaaaaaBaaaB 
nannDnaanaaBDaDDanDBaaaB 
DaaaDaaaaDBDUDDacDanaQaa 
oDaaaaaBDaaaaGCDDaDBDBDB 
nDDnDDBQaQannaDUDDBDaaaa 
naDGDaaBDaDBaDDnDanaaaDB 
DDDoaaaDBDBaaDGaaaBDBaBa 
oaaaaBaBaaBananBGaBBBBBB 
BQBGBaaBaBBaaGaGaGaaaaaB 
aBGBGaaaaBBanaGaDBas3E:<aB 
BaaaaGBBBBBaaGBGaaEassasa 

GaDBaaBBBBBBGaGBGaaas^BB 

BGaGaaaBaaBaaaaaaaBasEaB 


SIX 

white 


SIX 

black 


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■oaaaaaaaoaaaDD  <^  5 


oonnDnoBGDaaanDODaaaGaDB  -r 
QnaGGDanaaaGaGaDaaaGDaaa  A 

GBODGBGaGBGDaaaQaBGDaBaG  i?  . 

aaGaaaaaaDDaaaaaGaDcaGGD  .5  •" 
DaGGaQGDaGaDGGBaaaGGDDGa  >  ■-; 
QGCGGaoaaaQQDaaaaannGGGG  5  g 
aQBGBDDaDDDaDQDaDaDGaDaa  P  k 
DDCBDaDaaGaDDDDaaaaaDDDa  k  Q 


nBOBaaaaaBGaaBoaGBOBBBBB  »  . 
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aaGaGBGaBBaBGBGBCBnBDBGB  o  ~ 

BaaaaDBaBaBGBaBGBDBGBaaG  c  c^ 

BGBGBaaaBGanBaBDaGBGBOBG   l~  -c 

DaGanaDaGBGaaaGBaaGBGBGB  ^  o 
aaBnBDaaBaaaaDBDBnaGaaaD  h- 
aaaBaaaagBaBDaDaaaGBGaaa 


_  S 
«  be 


Q£ 


Ginghams  are  made  with  from  two 
colors,  warp  and  filling,  to  eight  col- 
ors in  warp  and  six  in  filling. 

The  1,200  grade  Is  occasionally 
made  up  in  spotted  check  effect  or  say 
six  black,  six  white,  having  a  small 
diamond-shaped  figure  at  regular  in- 
tervals, produced  in  dobby  looms. 

Another  style  having  great  vogue 
some  10  years  ago  is  known  as  apron 
ginghams,  made  In  900  grade,  and  hav- 


846 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ing  about  three-quarters  of  the  width 
of  the  cloth  woven  in  a  small  check, 
4x4,  and  the  remainder  having  a  large 
pattern,  with  a  woven  check  in  the 
filling.  It  is  usually  made  in  two  col- 
ors, and  made  36  inches  in  reed. 

Reed  900 — two  ends  per  dent;  36 
inches  in  reed;  44  picks  filling.  Fin- 
ish 34  inches;  l-26s  warp  and  filling. 
Plain   weave. 

Warp  pattern.  Fining  pattern. 

t  White  !  1«8M,  times  =  1.348  ends.      *   ^hlte 


Read  from  top  to  bottom  th«n 
reverse. 


=  222  ends  X  2  =  444  ends  In  border 
1,348  In  ground 


l,792  +  8end8blu« 


8  Blue 
2   White 
6    Blue 
10  White 
10   Blue 
22  White 
10   Blue 
10  White 
6    Blue 
2   White 
52   Blue 
2  White 
4    Blue 
10  White 

2    Blue 
16   White 

2    Blue 

10  White 

4   Blue 

2  White 

40   Blue 


Blue   for   Ginghams. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particu- 
lars of  a  good  blue  for  a  gingham 
(common). 

For  100  pounds  yarn,  1st  bath:  6 
pounds  immedial  indone  3B  cone;  12 
pounds  sodium  sulphide  crystals;  4 
pounds  grape  sugar  (glucose) ;  3 
pounds  soda  ash;  4  pounds  common 
salt. 

For  standing  bath:  3  pounds  imme- 
dial indone  3B  con  \;  6  pounds  sodium 
sulphide  crystals;  l^  pounds  glucose, 

pound  soda  ash. 

Immedial  indone  3B  cone  is  one  of 
the  Cassella  Color  Company's  colors. 
Should  a  bluer  shade  be  required,  a 
little  Immedial  indone  B  cone  can  be 
added.  If  a  greener  shade  is  needed, 
a  little  immedial  yellow  D  can  be 
added. 

Dye  for  one  hour,  turning  the  goods 
several  times,  then  squeeze  off  well  by 
means  of  the  squeezing  rollers  at- 
tached to  one  end  of  the  vat,  and  level 
by  wringing  off  rapidly  at  the  wring- 
Vng  post. 


Then  age  the  yarn  three-quarters 
of  an  hour,  rinse  well  and  soap  if  re- 
quired. Uniform  and  careful  squeez- 
ing and  wringing  off  are  essential  to 
ensure  good  levelness  of  the  dyeings. 

Immedial  indone  3B  cone  and  B  cone 
are  excellently  suited  for  the  produc- 
tion of  every  shade  of  indigo,  both  for 
light  shades  when  dyed  by  themselves, 
and  for  medium  and  darker  shades 
when  dyed  In  combination  with  im 
medial  direct  blue,  or  the  other  brands 
of  Immedial  Indone.  By  reason  of 
their  simple  method  of  application 
they  deserve  the  special  attention  of 
all  branches  of  cotton  dyeing. 

FINISHING   FOR   GINGHAMS. 

Starch:  2-8  ounces  cornstarch;  4-8 
ounces  white  softening;  1  gallon 
water;  mix  cold,  boil  half  an  hour. 

White  softening  is  from  cocoanut 
oil.  Pieces  are  run  through  a  starch 
mangle  and  onto  a  cylinder  drying 
machine.  They  are  then  damped  on  a 
sprinkler  machine  and  given  a  light 
calendering. 


CRASH 


Crash  is  a  single  cloth  fabric,  com- 
posed of  all-cotton  yarns,  or  of  cottou 
and  jute.  It  is  used  principally  for 
toweling  and  as  a  covering  for  fine 
carpets.  In  some  of  the  southern 
states  It  is  made  with  a  plain  weave, 
and  worn  as  a  summer  men's  wear 
fabric,  as  It  is  cheaper  than  linen. 

It  is  usually  made  of  1-148,  l-16s,  1- 
208  cotton  warp  and  filling,  and  some- 
times of  1-lOs  and  l-12s  cotton.  As  a 
carpet  covering,  it  is  woven  in  a  nar- 
row loom,  and  has  either  broad  or 
narrow  stripes  In  the  warp,  of  fancy 
colored  dyed  yarns,  dark  red  and  dark 
blue  being  common  colors.  The  ground 
of  the  cloth  Is  made  of  cotton  yarns  In 
the  gray,  or  unbleached  state.  This 
fabric  has  the 

APPEARANCE  OF  LINEN, 
due  to  the  heavy  sizing,  and  calender- 
ing In  finishing.  Small  warp  effect 
twill  weaves  are  used,  such  as  2 — 1, 
either  right  or  left  hand,  and  running 
at  45  degrees,  1-1 6s  cotton  warp  and 
filling  crash  toweling  is  made  of 
yarns  both  in  the  grey  and  bleached 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


847 


state,  generally  about  1-148  cotton 
warp  and  filling,  in  widtlis  varying 
from  15  to  24  inches  finished,  either 
all  bleached  or  with  side  and  cross 
borders,  or  in  what  is  known  as 

HAIR-LINE  PLAIDS. 

Rarely  any  colors,  excepting  red  or 
navy  blue,  are  used  in  tow- 
eling. The  same  weaves  are 
used  in  this  line  as  in  ordinary  lin- 
ens, namely,  the  plain  weave  or  1  up 
and  1  down,  in  the  commoner  grades. 
But  for  bathing  purposes,  where  a 
rough  toweling  is  sometimes  requir- 
ed, there  is  the  bird's-eye  or  hucka- 
back _   weave — also      the       eight-end 


HUCKABACK  DESIGN. 


lai 


□■Dl 


JD    □□CCGBGBDn  

jfi-BCjaoBCB  nnn.iBDBCBn  acBBOOBann  amcm 

i..BnBa«a»n  □■aHOnaac*  ■■aaaaDoaa  acaa 

laaanaraGa  mamziDouaca  mmam 

i^aaaDBi^aa  acaa 

Design                    Drawkig-in  Draft  Ke«l  H»a        Umums  Chlltt 


HONEYCOMB  DESIGN. 


ncaaa 

Daaaa    nnoanaaa 

acaaa    GnacaoDD 

oaaaa    cmnaamaa 

azaaa    aoaoaGao 

oaaaa    aaoaoaoa 

aamam 

aDoan 

UarDes£  Cbiin  Dnwiag-io  Draft 

ooaaaDaa 
aaoaaaDQ 

lUed  Plan 


honeycomb  weave.  Toweling,  having 
as  a  design  fioral  or  scroll  figures,  is 
made  on  narrow  looms,  having  a  jac- 
quard  machine  attached;  this  sort  is 
used  for  bureau  scarfs. 
Crash  can  be 
WOVEN  ON  ANY  POWER  LOOM. 
The  kind  of  loom  necessary  to  pro- 
duce any  certain  grade  of  crash  is 
governed  by  the  construction  of  weave 
effect  desired,  as,  for  instance,  either 
the  plain  or  twill  weave  effects  are 
best  adapted  to  the  roller  or  cam 
loom;  the  more  complicated  fancy 
weaves,  such  as  huckabacks  and 
honeycomb,  necessitate  the  use  of  a 
dobby  loom. 

TO  FINISH  CRASH, 
it  Is  first  run  through  a  sprinkler,  to 
dampen  it;  then  it  is  put  through  the 
size  tub  and  rather  heavily  sized, 
after  which  it  is  run  through  a  dryer. 
From  the  dryer  It  goes  to  the  calen- 


ders, in  which  machine  the  gas-heated 
top  roller  acts  upon  the  sizing  and 
produces  the  rather  glazed  effect  on 
the  face  of  the  cloth. 

Crash  toweling  using  huckaback 
weave:  reed  850,  2  ends  per  dent;  18 
inches  wide;  l-16s  cotton  warp  and 
filling  (bleach);  46  picks  of  filling; 
finish  161^  inches;  weight,  1.85 
ounces. 

To  make  a  softer  feel,  use  one-half 
number  of  picks  and  wind  l-16s  and  1- 
20s  (1  end  of  each)  on  same  bobbin, 
and  weave  it  in;  this  also  increases 
the  mottled  effect. 

Crash  toweling  using  honeycomb 
weave;  reed  850,  2  ends  per  dent;  20 
inches  wide;  2-20s  cotton  warp  and 
filling  (bleach);  44  picks  of  filling; 
loom  width,  16  ounces;  no  finish; 
weight,  3^/4  ounces.  Use  dobby  loom 
for  each  of  these  fabrics. 

In  making  honeycomb  toweling,  if 
using  a  cross  border,  the  Crompton 
double  cylinder  or  two-weave  dobby 
is  the  most  convenient,  as  the  border 
weave  and  the  body  weave  each  has 
its  separate  harness  chain,  and  is 
worked  from  the  box  chain. 


THE    FINISHING. 

Detailed  Description  of  the  Process  of 

Crash    Finishing. 

To  finish  a  piece  of  crash  ready  for 
the  market:  If  the  piece  is  clean 
enough  and  a  cheap,  rough  finish  is 
required,  the  first  process  is  starching. 
A  very  light  starch  liquor  is  neces- 
sary, to  one  gallon  of  water,  two  to  six 
ounces  of  cornstarch,  one-half  to  one 
pound  cocoanut  oil  softening.  Mix  in 
cold  water  and  boil  together  for  30 
minutes.  The  pieces  are  passed 
through  a  starch  mangle  at  full  width, 
over  a  drying  machine  of  steam  cyl- 
inders. They  are  then  passed  throug'i 
a  light  calender  to  straighten  the 
goods  out,  and  smoothed  down  a  little. 
They  are  then  folded  up,  packed  in 
cases   and   shipped   away. 

The  goods  can  be  bleached,"  each 
piece  being  placed  separately  in  a 
kier,  or  the  ends  sewed  together  and 
the  goods  run  Into  a  kier,  with  a  4  de- 
gree Tw.  solution  of  caustic  soda,  and 
boiled  six  to  eight  hours. 


m 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  goods  are  then  run  through 
A  WASHING  MACHINE 
and  returned  to  the  kier,  and  the  soda 
boil  repeated  for  eight  hours.  The 
goods  are  run  through  a  washing  ma- 
chine, and  through  a  solution  of  oil  of 
vitriol  Vz  degree  Tw.,  washed  again, 
and  run  through  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  lime  at  %  degree  Tw.,  piled  in  a 
bin  for  eight  hours,  run  through  an 
acid  solution  of  oil  of  vitriol  ^>  degree 
Tw.,  and  well  washed  until  all  trace  of 
acid  is  eliminated.  If  any  acid  is  left 
in  the  goods,  the  goods,  being  very 
heavy,  will  be  tender,  as  they  will  re- 
tain so  much  acid  when  dried  on  the 
drying  machine  that  they  will  have  the 
fibre  of  the  cloth  injured.  The  goods 
are  then  starched  with  four  to  six 
ounces  to  a  gallon  of  cornstarch,  one- 
half  pound  cocoanut  oil,  white  soften- 
ing. This  is  to  add  a  little  fullness  to 
the  cloth  without  making  it  too  stiff 
and  starchy.  The  goods  are  then  dried 
on  a  tenter  frame  at  full  width,  to 
keep  them  straight  and  have  the  weft 
perfectly  straight  across  the  piece. 

If  required,  they  are  then  given  a 
light  calendering.  If  a  light  buff  or 
ecru  is  required,  a  little  color  is  add- 
ed to  the  starch  liquor,  or  the  goods 
are  dyed  on  a  jigger  machine,  or  on  a 
padding  machine. 

These  goods  will  stand  a  great 
amount  of  wearing,  and  look  dressy 
and  chic,  without  being  too  expensive. 


by  running  the  cloth  through  a  nap- 
ping machine. 

The  napper  is  a  machine  consisting 
of  a  series  of  woolen  rollers,  through 
which   the   cloth   passes,    as   the   ma- 


DOMET  OR  OUTING  CLOTH 

Domet,  or  outing  cloth,  is  a  single 
cloth,  composed  of  single  cotton  yarns, 
generally  1-20  to  1-26  warp  yam,  and 
l-14s  or  1-I6s  cotton  or  cotton  and 
cotton  shoddy  mixed  filling  yams.  It 
is  made  in  bright  colored  stripe  and 
plaid  patterns,  and  is  used  in  the  man- 
ufacture of  shirts,  pajamas,  etc.,  and 
is  always  woven  with  a  plain  weave, 
or  1  up,  1   down. 

In-  effect  it  Is  a  fabric  having 
A   SOFT,   REGULAR   NAP 
on  both  sides  of  the  goods  and  in  ap- 
pearance is  very  similar  to  a  flannel. 

The  nap  is  produced  by  carding  or 
brushing  up  the  loose  outside  fibres 
on  a  rather  slack  twisted  filling  yarn. 


Domet. 


chine  is  working  automatically.  The 
brush  roller,  that  part  of  the  machine 
which  raises  the  nap,  is  a  wooden  cyl- 
inder covered  with  wire  card  clothing, 
and  is  in  fact  the  same  as  a  fancy  on  a 
woolen  card.  This  brush  roller  is  set 
on  the  top  of  the  machine  near  the 
center,  and  is  so  arranged  that  the 
cloth  passes,  between  it  and  a  wooden 
or  other  solid  roller  or  cylinder,  and 
as  the  brush  roller  revolves,  the  wire 
teeth  in  the  card  clothing  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  surface  of  the  cloth  and 
as  they  are  running  in  opposite  diiac 
tions,  the  filling  being  the  softest,  the 
natural  result  is  a  nap  being  raised. 
A  domet  fabric  may  have  either  a 
high  or  long  nap,  or  a  short  or  close 
nap, 

THE  DEGREE  OF  NAP 

to  be  produced  is  governed  first  by 
the  experienced  judgment  of  the  man- 
ufacturer in  buying  a  filling  yarn 
which  will  produce  the  best  results, 
namely,  a  fine  nap.  with  m-inimum  loss 
of  strength  as  a  thread,  as  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  amount  of  filling  twist  and 
in  a  given  count,  less  the  percentage 
of  twist,  to  create  proper  degree  of 
slackness  in  the  yarn,  is  found  con- 
venient when  buying  this  kind  of  yarn. 


A  COTTON  J*ABRICS  GLOSSARY 


34d 


Domet  is  generally  made  on  a  roll- 
er or  cam  loom,  as  a  cloth  receives 
NO  FINISH,  EXCEPTING  THE  NAP. 
The  selling  width  of  the  cloth  is  about 
29 1^  inches.  During  the  process  of 
napping,  a  domet  loses  a  small  per- 
centage of  the  filling  weight.  This 
waste   Is   called   fly,  as   it  is   used   by 


the  cotton  Is  followed  of  having  the 
mixings  as  large  as  possible,  but  no 
other  special  attention  need  be  given 


Domet. 

shoddy  n:anufacturers  in  the  produc- 
tion of  heavy  backing  yarns. 

Warp  colors  used  in  domet  stripes, 
dark  blue,  light  blue,  light  brown,  pink 
and   light  green. 

Filling:  all  white  for  stripes,  and  In 
som.e  grades,  cotton  and  cotton  shoddy 
mixed  yarns  give  the  fabric  a  dark 
tone,  after  the  napping.  The  last- 
named  grade  is  used  extensively  as  a 
w'orking  shirt  for  machinists,  as  it 
doesn't  show  the  soiled  places  very 
readily,  and  will  tear  easily  if  caught 
in  the  machinery. 

Warp  stripe  domet:  reed  800;  2 
ends  per  dent,  31%  inches,  l-22s  cot- 
ton warp  yarns,  36  picks. 

l-16s  cotton  filling,  11  turns  twist 
(will  produce   good,   close   nap). 

Selling    width    29i/^    inches. 

Plain  weave  on  four  harness; 
drawD-in  1,  2,  3,  4. 

Weight,   2.3   ounces,   about. 

Amount  of  filling  twist,  less  about 
15  per  cent,  will  give  good  results  in 
napping. 

Filling  loses  about  V^  per  cent  of  its 
weight  during  napping  process. 

Carding    Particulars. 
The  raw  stock  used  for  these  goods 
should   be  American   of  about   1   1-16 
inch  staple.   The  usual  plan  of  mixing 


Dananana 
aDaaaaaa 
oaaaaaaa 
aoaaaoaa 
Daaaaaaa 
aoaaaoaa 
oaoBoaaa 
aaaoaoaa 


DDnaaoDB 
aoaaaoaa 
oaoooaoo 
aoDoaaaa 


DDaaooaa 
aaoaaaaa 


Design.    Drawlng-ln  Draft.   Reed    Plan. 

to  it.  At  the  pickers  the  only  special 
feature  to  look  out  for  is 

THE  SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER. 

This  should  be  run  at  above  the  aver- 
age speed,  because  the  cotton  used 
generally  contains  more  than  the  av- 
erage amount  of  dirt,  etc.,  found  in 
cotton.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  of  the  finisher  picker  should  be 
heavy.  At  the  card  the  only  special 
features  to  be  careful  of  are  the  set- 
tings. These  should  be  open  because 
of  the  weight  of  the  lap  put  in  at  the 
card  and  also  because  the  production 
of  this  machine  with  this  class  of 
goods  is  large.  The  most  special  at- 
tention given  to  this  class  of  goods  is 
at 

THE  DRAWING  FRAME, 

throe  processes  being  the  usual  num- 
ber run.  The  most  important  points 
to  look  out  for  are  as  follows:  that 
the  settings  are  all  right,  the  top 
leather  rolls  are  properly  covered, 
and  that  they  have  no  channels  or 
are  not  hollowed  out  along  their  en- 
lire  length,  that  the  top  rolls  are  kept 
properly  varnished,  that  the  stop  mo- 
tions are  properly  adjusted,  and  last- 
ly that  the  condensing  or  large  front 
calender  rolls  are  set  so  that  the 
proper  pressure  is  brought  to  bear  on 
the  cotton  sliver  being  passed  be- 
tween them.  It  may  be  just  as  well  to 
say 

A  FEW  THINGS 

here  about  the  drawing  frame  which 
apply  not  only  to  the  class  of  cloth 
under  description,  but  also  to  all  cot- 
ton yarns  for  all  classes  of  work.  Too 
little  attention  is  given  to  the  draw- 
ing frame.  Just  because  it  is  one  of 
the  most  simply  constructed  machines 
used   in  the   card   room,  it  generally 


350 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


receives  the  least  attention.  This 
should  not  be  the  case,  however,  be- 
cause the  drawing  frame,  unless 
properly  looked  after,  will  make  a 
great  deal  of  difference  to  the  appear- 
ance of  the  yarn  made.  If  the  draw- 
ing frame  is  properly  looked  after  it 
will  be  found  that  the  roving  being 
made  wuU  be  a  great  deal  evener  than 
if  the  drawing  frames  are  left  to  look 
after  themselves.  Particular  atten- 
tion   should    always   be   given   to   the 

DIFFERENT  STOP  MOTIONS 
to  see  that  they  are  doing  what  is  re- 
quired of  them.  It  will  be  seen  that  if 
only  one  stop  motion  in  a  head  does 
not  work  properly  and  allows  an  end 
to  pass  through  the  machine  without 
stopping  it,  the  resulting  finished 
yarn  is  going  to  be  lighter  at  that  cer- 
tain part  and  in  this  w'y  make  an 
uneven  yarn.  I  know  that  it  will  be 
said  that  the  drafts  and  doublings  at 
the  future  machines 

WILL  HELP  TO  OVERCOME 
this  defect,  but  if  the  adjustment 
were  made  at  the  drawing  frame  this 
particular  defect  would  not  exist.  Per- 
haps a  good  thing  for  card  room  over- 
seers to  paste  in  their  hats  would  be, 
"Watch  your  drawing  frames,  first, 
last  and  always."  We  have  wandered 
somewhat  from  the  subject  under  de- 
scription and  will  conclude  the  card- 
ing end  of  it  by  saying  that  no  special 
points,  outside  of  the  ones  generally 
followed,  need  be  given  to  the  making 
of  the  roving.  A  great  deal  of  the  un- 
evenness  of  the  yarn,  if  any  exists,  is 
covered  up  because  the  cloth  is 
napped. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

The  colors  in  the  fabric  illustrated 
can  be  dyed  in  the  yarn  or  raw  stock. 
The  dyeing  particulars  are  as  fol- 
lows: 

GRAY. 

For  100  pounds  of  raw  stock  for 
dark    gray,   Cassella    Color    Company. 

1st  bath:  15  pounds  immeliil  black 
N.  G.;  4  ounces  immedial  yellow  D.; 
10  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  7  pounds 
soda  ash;  12  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's 
salt. 


2d  and  standing  bath:  7  pounds  im- 
medial black  N.  G.;  1  ounce  immedial 
yellow  D.;  5  pounds  sodium  sulphide; 
3  pounds  soda  ash;  4  pounds  cryst. 
Glauber's  salt. 

Enter  stock,  raw  cotton,  at  the  boil, 
and  keep  at  200  degrees  F.  for  one 
hour. 

Wash  well  with  water  and  squeeze 
through  rollers,  and  repeat  operation 
of  washing  several  times,  until  cotton 
is  perfectly  clean. 

FOR   LIGHT   GRAY. 

1st  bath:  8  pounds  imn^ed:al  black 
N.  G.,  Cassella  Color  Company;  3 
ounces  immedial  yellow  D.,  Cassella 
Color  Company;  8  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide; 6  pounds  soda  ash;  10  pounds 
cryst.    Glauber's  salt. 

2d  and  standing  bath:  5  pounds  im- 
medial black  N.  G.;  2  ounces  imme- 
dial yellow  D. ;  5  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide; 4  pounds  soda  ash;  5  pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt. 

Enter  stock  at  boil,  and  keep  at  200 
degrees  F.  for  one  hour. 
Wash  well,  as  with  darker  shade. 
The  immedial  colors  of  the  Cassella 
Color  Company  are  absolutely  fast  to 
w'ashing  and  sunlight,  and  are  free 
from  sulphur,  so  that  there  is  not  the 
danger  of  tendering  the  fibre  as  with 
so  many  of  the  sulphur  colors. 

The  immedial  colors  are  gradually 
replacing  the  direct  one-dip  colors 
which  have  had  so  long  a  run,  and 
which  were  used  so  extensively  for 
the  last  10  years  or  more. 

The  immedial  colors  are  now  made 
into  blacks,  blues,  browns,  yellows, 
greens,  wines  and  very  soon  there 
will  be  a  full  range  of  shades  made, 
to  match  all  colors  required  in  cotton 
goods.  The  immedial  blues  are  as 
fast  as  the  indigo  shades  so  long  used 
for  all  fast  colors. 

PINK. 

For  100  pounds  raw  stock,  cotton: 
20  pounds  Glauber's  salt;  2  pounds  sal 
soda;   5  ounces  diamine  rose  G.  D. 

Enter    at    boil    and    boil    one    hour. 
Wash  well  in  water. 
BLUE. 

For  103  pounds  raw  stock,  cotton: 
20  pounds  Glauber's  salt;  2  pounds  sal 
soda;   1^  pounds  diamine  blue  B.  X. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


361 


Enter  at  boil  and  boil  one  hour. 
Wash  well  in  water.  The  diamine  rose 
G.  D.  and  the  diamine  blue  B.  X.  are 
from  the  Cassella  Color  Company  and 
are  very  level  dyeing  colors  and  very 
fast  to  light  and  washing. 

A  variety  of  colors,  of  course,  can 
be  used  in  the  dyeing  of  this  fabric. 

ZEPHYR*  GINGHAM 

Zephyr  gingham  is  the  finest  grade 
of  gingham  nade,  and  is  a  light- 
weight cotton  fabric,  composed  of  1- 
40s  to  l-60s  cotton  warp  and  filling 
yarns. 

It  is  woven  with  either  the  plain 
weave  or  a  small  all-over  dobby  ef- 
fect. It  is  made  in  very  attractive 
patterns  by  using  good  fast  colors  in 
warp  and  filling,  and,  as  a  cloth,  has 
splendid  wearing  qualities. 

From 

TWQ  TO  TEN  COLORS 
can  be  used  in  both  warp  and  filling, 
the  filling  colors  being  governed  by 
the  number  of  shuttles  the  loom  will 
run,  and  this  number  is  increased  by 
the  introduction  of  fancy  colored, 
printed   yarns. 

Zephyr   gingham    is    made    up    into 


Zephyr  Gngham. 
such  patterns  as  light  and  dark  tone, 
shaded  plaids,  corded  and  ribbed 
stripes,  small  checks  and  broad,  deli- 
cately colored  plaids,  having  a  ran- 
dom printed  yarn  coloring,  and  this 
last  combination  is  woven  on  a  dobby 
loom,  using  as  a  design  a  small 
broken  twill  arrangement.  The  effect 
produced  is  something  on  the  order 
of  a  jacquard  pattern. 

MIXED   COLOR   EFFECTS 
are  made  by   dressing  the   warp,  one 
end  white,  one  end  fancy  print,  for. 


say,  100  ends,  and  then  making  a  rib 
by  using  a  satin  weave  for  eight  or 
ten  ends  of  a  dirk  color,  such  as 
black,  blue  or  red  brown.  This  style 
is  made  in  stripes,  as  stated  above, 
also  in  plaids  by  using  all  white  fill- 
ing to  cross  the  one  and  one  dressing 


Zephyr  Gingham. 

in  the  warp  and  a  correspondingly 
dark  colored  filling  squared  with  the 
satin  rib  in  the  warp. 

CORDED  EFFECTS 
are  produced  by  drawing  in  2,  3,  4 
ends  in  one  heddle  and  split,  and  this 
is  squared  in  the  filling  by  using  a 
correspondingly  heavy  thread,  as,  for 
instance,  3  ends  l-4Us  warp  in  one 
heddle  and  1  pick  of  3-40s  in  filling. 
This  would  require  such  a  loom  as 
the  Knowles  4x4  box  dobby  loom. 

For  a  roller  loom,  using  plain  weave, 
and  making  a  cord,  draw  warp  in,  as 
stated  above,  or  make  two  cords  side 
by  side  by  drawing  in  two  ends  per 
heddle  and  four  ends  in  split,  and 
square  this  by  two  picks,  each  of  1- 
2  s  cotton  filling. 

Zephyr  gingham  can  be  woven  on 
any  roller  loom.  Of  this  style  loom  the 
4x1  box  is  the  more  suitable.  For 
more  elaborate  filling  patterns  there 
is  the  Crompton  6x1  box  gingham 
loom,  and  for  fancy  weave  effect  take 
a  loom  having  a  spring  bottom  dobby 
motion  attached. 

Automatic  looms  are  beginning  to 
be  installed  for  the  production  of 
fancy  zepnyr  gin^han:s.  In  instances 
it  is  clain^ed  that  as  many  as  six 
colors  are  being  woven  on  an  au- 
tomatic loom,  and  giving  much  more 


352 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Cord  ConJ 

DBCB:::Hzz:rBZBrBrBrizBBH::B 

BDBZBZBBBZBZBZBZBZBJCCBO 

□  BZBZBZZ'JBZBZBZBZBDBBIZa  ^^^.„„ 

■cbzbzbbbzbzbzbzbzbdz'bd  Design. 

CBZBZBZZZBZBZBCBZBZBBBZB 
BZBZBZBBBZBZBZBZ«aBZZZB3 
CBZBZBZZZBZlZBZBnBZBBBZB 
BZBZBZBBBZBZBZBZBZBZZUB3 

□azzQZ]zzzzzazz^zzzzzzzzzi 
Dz;GGzzzana-zzazz„z,^zz:^'CZi 
Dzzzzgzzgzzzzzzz-zzz'zjjzi 

§§HS§gsii;55sKB85g5Draw!nK-in- 
DBDDDBuaanzBZczBZZGBZZGa        draft. 

BGaGBZGGGGBGZZBG~_BZGGGa 
DDOuGGGGGGGZZZZ_GGZZZZaa 
DGGZGZGGGGGZZZZZGGG3CGGa 

DDBBi'GBBBZZBBZGBBazBBBzn  Reed  plau. 

■BGGaB:3GGBBZaBBGZBB:;^GBB  •^"^^"  '■'   ""* 


Wivrp  effrct 
s^lm  ril> 

■CBnanBnBBBBBGBBBGaaBnBa 

GBaBCaZaBaGBBBBBDaGBGaGa 
aDBrBGBZaaBBaBaZBGBDBGBa 
aaGBGBGBBBSBGBBBZBaBGBGB  DesiCH 
BCBGBGBGBDBBBBBBBaBCBGBa  ■^'=^'5". 

GBGBOBGBBBBBBBCBGBGBGBGB 
BGBDflaBGaaaGBBBBBCZBGBaBa 

aaGBCBGaGBaBBaBBaaGBGBQa 
azaGDGaaDDODGcaGaaGDDDDa 
GGGGGCoaDDaDDaaaGDaDaaca 
aGGGGaaaDGDDDaaocnGDaaoG 
DDaz:nDnGnaDarjDocDccz  dgoq 

BaGzacDG-inrnGDnBcauaGDCG 
PDGDaGGGGGZGuB':  zzncGGca 
CQDDOOGDGZGGZBCGGGZlZGODg 

GaaGnaGGGGGZBzzzZ'_caGGag  ■n-.-.^.jnp-  in 
UDGGGnaaGGGBZZzcGGGDDaDa  iJraw  ing-in- 

DZCa  ^CGGGGB JbGGaGGQDaGGa     ,1  ra  ft 

DGGGGGGGGBGoaaGGcaDQaaaG   "'  '^'■'■• 
DaGuazrGDBDCGOoGaaoaoDPDa 

DDaBGaGBGCaGGDGGCGDBGQaB 
DGBDaDBGDOCGGGGCCGBaGCBa 
aBDOaBaCDGacaGGCDBGQGBGG 

maaomoi  laaQnaaaGCBGGGBaaa 

OGCnnCDGDGDDGEGDGGaGGGGa 

DGi  iGGaaDDaGGGanocGGGanaD 
CGBBGGBBGnaGBBBBGQBBGaBB  Reed  nlan. 

BBDDBBGGBBBBDCElLiBBGaBBGG  •^'"-'='"  i^iciii. 


Fancy  Dobby  Weave  Zephyr. 

BGBnBGBGBGBBBnnn 
GBGBGBGBGBBBGBGD 
BBBGBGBGBBBBBaaa 
BBBBGBBBGBBBGBOQ 

BBBGBBBGBBBGBGGG 

GBGBGBBBZBCBGBGO -np";!?!! 
BGBGBBBGBGBGBGQa  •L'et.Ign. 

aBGBBBGBrBGBDBGa 
BBBGBBBDBBBGBDCa 
□BGBBBGBBaBBGBGG 

BnBGBGBBBBBGBGCG  Harness 

□BBBGBGIBBBBGBGG  "  , 
BBBBBGBGBBBGBGGG   chain 
BBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG       ^, 
■BBBBGBGBGBGBGGG  exactly 
GBBBGBGBGBGBGBDG    ,,,  ^ 
BGBGBGBGBGBGBGCa    like 
GBCBGBGBBBGBGBGG  ,„^j„_. 
BZBGBZBBBBBZBGGG  design. 
BBZBGBBBBBBBZBGG 
BBBG«BBBBBBBZGZG 
BBBBBBBBGBBBZGGG 
BBBBBBBGBGBBBGGD 
^  '   CBBBBBGBGBGBGBDGI 
BGBBBGBGBCBGBODa 
■•  ■  □BGBGBGBGBGBQBQa 

'  ■  '  '  DBGBBGBGBGBGBBGQ 

:  '   .-  ■BBBGBGBGBGBGBGa 

nnaQGGaGGGGGDaaa 

BBGDCaGDDGGDnDDa 

■•"■  ■  DaaaaaaaaGGaDBca 

'  ■•  •■  DDDDraODDODGBDaa 
DDnDODnDDDGBGDaa 

-  ciaDnDDDDDDBGaaoa 

oancaanGGBCGGGGa 
OGcSaaGGBGcaGGaa 

□COGGGGBGDCGGGGa  T,_„^:-,p..in. 

ouGCGGBaGGGGGGca  i-Tawmg-in- 

DGQGGBGGDGDGaCGG     /^raft 

D'GGGBGGaGGGGGGGG     ardll. 

CGGBGaGGGGGOGGGa 

CGBGGGGGCCCGGCaa 

CBGGGGGGGGGDaGaa 

■CGGGGnaGGGGGGGa 

DGGGCGGCDGGGGOna 

DODDGaGGGGGGGCGQ 

DnBBGGBBGCBBaqnDR^orl    nlan 

■BauiBBDDBBaDBBQq  riecd  plan. 


satisfactory  results  than  were  previ- 
ously obtained.  In  order  to  uss  au- 
tomatic loorrs  successfully,  a  great 
deal  more  attention  must  be  given  to 
the  yarns  which  are  used  in  the  va- 
rious cloths.  Certain  mills  have  had 
to  purchase  longer  cotton  and  install 
more  up-to-date  preparatory  machin- 
ery when  they  installed  automatic 
looms  for  the  production  of  staple 
fabrics,  and  while  this  same  condition 
does  not  apply  to  so  great  an  extent 
on  ginghams,  nevertheless  it  is  one 
of  the  in^portant  item.s. 

COLORS   FOR    ZEPHYR. 

Black,  light  blue,  dark  blue,  light 
brown,  pink,  red,  tan,  ecru,  canary, 
orange,  new  blue,  old  gold.  Print 
yarns  can  be  obtained  of  almost  any 
color   desired. 

A  good  grade  of  zephyr  gingham  is 
made  as  follows: 

Reed  1500,  two  ends  per  split,  29 
inches  wide,  80  picks;  weight,  two 
ounces  about;  l-50s  cotton  warp  and 
filling;    finish    27    inches. 


COT-OR   EFFECT. 


Warp 
■Rrnwn. 
Blue. 
Rnuvn, 
Blue. 
Brown. 
Blue. 
Brown. 
B'ue. 

White  cord 
Blue. 
Wliite. 
Whit.'  cord 
While. 
Blue. 
White. 
White  cord 
White. 
Blue. 
White. 
White  cord 
White. 
BLue. 
White. 
White  cord 
White. 
B'ue. 
White. 
White  cord 
White. 
B'up. 

White  cord 
B!ue. 
Brown. 
Biuu. 


pattern. 


equals  3 
equals  3 


ends, 
ends. 


equals  3  ends, 
equals  3  ends, 
equals  3   ends. 


equals  3 
equals  3 


ends, 
ends. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


^3 


SHADED    PLAID. 
Filling  same  as  warp   pattern. 

Pattern    continued. 
6   Brown. 
6   Blue. 
8   Brown. 
4   Blue. 
4   Brown. 
2   Black. 
4   Brown. 

1  White  cord  equals  3   ends. 
4   Brown. 
4   Black. 
4    Brown. 

1  White  cord  equals  3  ends. 
4    Brown. 

2  Black. 

The  finish  consists  of  sprinkling  and 
of  running  clotli  tlirough  very  tliin  siz- 
ing, after  which  it  is  tentered  and  cal- 
endered. 


Carding  Particulars. 
Various  grades  of  cotton  as  well  as 
different  lengths  of  staple  are  used  for 
the  class  of  goods  described.  The 
length  of  staple  used  for  the  former 
goods  is  about  1  3-8  inches  and  gen- 
erally American  cotton  is  used.  The 
mixings  should  be  as  large  as  possible 
so  as  to  obtain  an  even  yarn.  It  will 
be  at  once  seen  that  if  small  mixings 
are  used  there  will  be  some  little  dif- 
ference in  each  mixing  and  just  this 
little  difference  will  show  up  in  the 
finished  yarn.  This  applies  not  only 
to  this  mixing  for  the  class  of  goods 
described  but  to  all  mixings  for  all 
goods,    and 

THE  MIXING 

of  cotton  is  one  of  the  most  particular 
points  of  carding,  because  if  different 
lengths  of  staple  are  allowed  to  be 
mixed  together,  it  is  bound  to  cause 
trouble  in  addition  to  uneven  yarn. 
Every  bale  of  cotton  should  be  sepa- 
rately stapled  before  it  is  allowed  to 
be  put  into  the  mixing,  and  if  the 
staple  is  longer  or  shorter  than  the 
cotton  already  mixed,  it  should  be  put 
one   side. 

The  cotton  should  be  run  through 
openers  and  two  processes  of  pickers, 
although  a  great  niany  mills  use  three 
processes;  but  all  the  newer  plantb 
being  built  have  only  two  processes 
of  pickers.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE   BEATER 

should  be  about  1,050  revolutions  per 
nlinute  for  the  opener  and  1,500  rev- 


olutions per  minute  for  the  breaker 
and  1,450  revolutions  per  minute  for 
the  finisher,  a  12  to  13  ounce  lap  be- 
ing made  at  the  finisher  picker. 

The  card  should  have  closer  set- 
tings than  for  the  cloth  described  pre- 
viously. Special  attention  should  be 
given  to  the  setting  of  the  back  plate 
to  the  licker-in.  If  this  plate  is  set 
too  close  the  cotton  will  be  broken 
and  if  set  too  far  away  will  cause 
bunches  to  come  through.  It  is  al- 
ways just  as  well,  when  setting  a  card 
for  new  length  of  stock  or  changing 
over,  to  sample  the  cotton,  both  be- 
fore it  enters  the  card  and  after  it 
leaves  it,  to  compare  the  two  staples 
and  to  see  if  they  are  of  the  same 
length.  A  good  weight  per  yard  for 
sliver  at  the  card  for  this  class  of 
goods  is  50  grains.  On  the  former 
grades  of  the  goods  under  description 

THE  COTTON  IS  COMBED. 

This,  of  course,  means  extra  expense 
because  of  the  extra  machines  used, 
but  it  also  makes  the  yarn  evener  be- 
cause at  the  comber  all  the  short  fi- 
bers are  taken  out,  leaving  all  the  fi- 
bres of  the  same  length.  When  comb- 
ers are  used  only  two  processes  of 
drawing  are  regarded,  but  when  the 
combers  are  not  used  for  this  class 
of  goods  then  three  processes  of 
drawing  are  used.  For  this  class  of 
goods  only  15  per  cent  waste  should 
be  taken  out  at  the  comber. 

At  the  speeders  or  fiy  frames  the 
drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the 
slubber,  1st  intermediate,  2d  inter- 
mediate and  fine  frames,  the  finished 
hank  roving  ranging  from  8  to  12 
hank.  In  the  samples  under  descrip- 
tion the  hank  used  would  be  about  12. 
Watch  the  settings  of  the  rolls  at  the 
fly  frames  and  see  that  all  your 
frames  are  set  alike.  These  settings 
should  be  looked  after  all  the  time 
and  should  lapping  or  bunching  occur 
it  is  a  pretty  good  indication  t'lat 
something  is  wrong  with  your  roll 
settings.  If  many  frames  are  being 
run  on  the  same  stock, 

IT  IS  VERY  IMPORTANT 
to  have  all  the  change  gears  the  same, 
especially    the    draft    gear.     It    some- 
times  happens   that   the   wrong   draft 


364 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


gear  will  be  put  on  one  frame  and  the 
result  is  that  the  yarn  is  delivered  to 
the  ring  spinning  room  or  mule  room 
uneven.  It  will  also  cause  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  in  sizing  the  yarns.  This 
trouble  is  greater  if  the  wrong  gear  is 
put  on  one  of  the  2d  intermediate 
frames  because  the  draft  gear  on  these 
machines  is  seldom  changed  and  you 
might  not  look  here  for  the  troublo 
for  a  long  time  and  until  considerable 
annoyance  had  been  caused. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
The  colors  in  the  fabric  illustrated 
are  dyed  in  the  yarn.   The  dyeing  par- 
ticulars are  as  follows: 

LIGHT  TAN. 
For  100  pounds  yarn:  12  ounces 
immedial  yellow  D.,  pat.;  2  ounces  im- 
medial  olive  B.,  pat.;  7  ounces  im- 
medial cutch  G.,  pat.;  5  pounds  sodium 
sulphide;  10  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's 
salt;  3  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter  yam 
at  boil  and  boil  one  hour.  Wash  well 
with   two   or  three  waters. 

ECRU. 
For  100  pounds  yarn:  6  ounces  im- 
medial yellow  D,  pat.;  1  ounce  imme- 
dial olive  B.,  pat.;  4  ounces  immedial 
cutch  G.,  pat.;  5  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide; 10  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's 
salt;  3  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter  yarn  at 
boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash  well  with 
two  or  three  clean  waters. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  8  ounces  im- 
medial brown  B.,  pat.;  1  pound,  4 
ounces  immedial  cutch  O.,  pat.;  5 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  10  pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  3  pounds  soda 
ash.  Enter  yarn  at  boil,  and  boil  one 
hour.  Wash  well  with  two  or  three 
waters. 

OLD  GOLD. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  per  cent  im- 
medial yellow  D,  pat.;  6  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  12  per  cent  cryst. 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
Enter  yarn  at  boil.  Boil  one  hour. 
Wash  well  with  two  or  three  waters. 

PINK. 
For  100  pounds  yarn:   6  ounces  dia- 
mine rose  G  D,  pat.;  2  pounds  sal  so- 


da; 25  pounds  Glauber's  salt.  Enter  at 
boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash  well  in 
water. 

NEW  BLUE. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  3  per  cent  im- 
medial sky  blue  powdered  cone;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  10  per  ceni 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash. 

After  treated  with  V2  per  cent  bich- 
rome  potash;  Vz  per  cent  bluestone. 
Wash  well  with  water. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
For  100  pounds  yarn:  IVz  per  cent 
immedial  indone  B,  pat.;  iy2  per  cent 
immedial  sky  blue  powered  cone;  5 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  10  pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  3  pounds  soda 
ash.  Enter  at  boil.  Boil  one  hour. 
Wash  well  with  water. 

DARK  BLUE. 
For  100  pounds  yarn:  5  pounds  im- 
medial indone  blue,  3  B,  pat.;  10 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  15  pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  5  pounds  soda 
ash.  Enter  at  boil.  Boil  one  hour. 
Wash  well  with  water. 

ORANGE, 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  5  pounds  im- 
medial orange  C,  pat.;  8  pounds  so- 
dium sulphide;  15  pounds  cryst.  Glau- 
ber's salt;  5  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter 
at  boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash  well  in 
two  or  three  waters. 

BLACK. 

For  100  pounds  yarn,  1st  bath;  20 
pounds  immedial  black  NN.  cone;  12 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  20  pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  5  pounds  soda 
ash. 

2d  bath:  10  pounds  immedial  black 
N  N  cone;  8  pounds  sodium  sulphide; 
15  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  4 
pounds    soda    ash. 

Enter  at  boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash 
well  in  two  or  three  clean  waters. 


The  Finishing. 
In  the  finishing  process  use:  4  to  8 
ounces  cornstarch,  4  to  8  ounces  co- 
coanut  oil,  white  softening,  1  gallon 
water.  Mix  cold,  boil  half  an  hour. 
Starch  through  mangle.  Run  over 
drying  cylinders.     Sprinkle,  and   cal- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


355 


ender  through  light  calender.  After 
starching,  the  goods  are  sometimes 
dried  over  the  tenter  frame  to  keep 
the  pattern  straight  across  the  piece. 


CRINOLINE 

Crinoline  is  a  fabric  composed  of 
cotton  warp,  horsehair  filling  or  all 
cotton  yarns.  It  is  sold  in  varying 
widths,  and  is  used  by  tailors  and 
dressmakers  in  stiffening  clothing. 

It  is  a  cheap  cloth  of  low  texture 
and  simple  construction, 
THE  DISTINGUISHING  FEATURE 
being  the  stiff  finish  with  either  a  dull 
or  highly  glazed  face  on  the  cloth. 
Crinoline,  having  a  horsehair  fill- 
ing, requires  a  loom  of  special  con- 
struction to  handle  the  hair,  as  it  is 
hung  in  a  neat  bundle  on  the  end  of 
the  loom,  the  hair  being  of  a  uniform 
length  and  color,  generally  black;  the 
mechanism  on  the  loom  drawing  a 
strand  of  hair  from  the  bunch  and 
placing  it  in  the  shed  formed  by  the 
harness.  A  herring-bone  twill  weave 
is  used  in  this  grade  of  the  cloth. 
Practically 

THE  SAME  EFFECT 
can  be  produced  by  using  a  glazed 
warp  thread  and  a  cotton  filling. 
The  glazing  process  is  to  take  the 
cotton  warp  thread,  and  after 
charging  heavily  with  a  solution  of 
sizing,  the  yarns  are  run  through  su- 
per-heated cylinders  and  rollers,  the 


Crinoline. 

effect  being  a  highly  polished  surface 
to  the  yarn. 

Crinoline  composed  of  regular  cot- 
ton  yarns    is    stiffened    by    weighting 


the  size,  in  some  cases,  equals  20  per 
cent  of  that  of  the  yarns  used  in  con- 
struction. 

Crinoline  is  made  generally  on  the 
roller  or  cam  loom  of  l-20s  to  l-26s 
cotton  warp  and  filling  yarn,  using 
25  to  40  ends  and  picks  per  inch,  the 
cloth  losing  about  10  per  cent  of  Its 
width  from  loom  to  finished  width. 
The  warps  are  sized  6  to  10  per  cent 
and  the  woven  cloth  made  to  absorb 
15  to  20  per  cent  of  its  weight,  during 
sizing  operation. 

TO  FINISH  CRINOLINE 
means  to  stiffen  it.       The     cloth     is 
therefore  taken  direct  from  the  loom 
to  the  size  tubs  and  after  this  opera- 


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No.  1. 


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Daai. 

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noaDDBDDDBna 

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DaGGQGGBGGaa 
BaGGGGBaGGDa 


Twp  Brpeat3 


aoaaonac  _ 
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No.  2. 


No.  3. 


1.  Crinoline.  Plain    weave. 

2.  Crinoline.  Herring-bone    Weave. 

3.  Haircloth;  5  harness  satin  filling  ef- 
fect. 

tion  it  is  run  through  the  cylinders 
to  dry  it,  after  which  the  glaze  finish 
is  produced  by  the  action  of  the  heat- 
ed rollers  in  the  calender  machine. 
The  cloth  is  then  rolled  or  lapped,  to 
whatever  size  bolt  desired,  the  bolt 
pressed  in  plate  press,  and  the 
crinoline  is  ready  for  the  packing 
cases. 

Crinoline  is  usually  made  in  either 
solid  black  or  cotton  in  the  gray; 
plain  weave;  reed  700;  1  end  per  split; 
2TY2  inches  reed;  l-26s  cotton  warp 
and  filling;  36  picks;  20  per  cent  size 
in  finish. 

Color,  black;  weight,  1.9  ounces; 
16  square  inches,  weight  15.1  grains, 
finished  weight;  16  square  inches, 
weight  12.1  grains  after  sizing  is  re- 
moved. 

Horsehair  is  used  in  manufactur- 
ing haircloth,  a  fabric   used   for  fur- 


the  fabric  with  sizing;  the  weight  ofniture   covering,   the    weave    being   a 


S56 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


filling  effect  satin  (generally  about 
five  harness)  to  throw  hair  on  the 
face  of  the  cloth.  These  satin 
weaves  permit  of  about  15  per  cent 
more  ends  and  picks  than  are  used  in 
an  ordinary  weave.  This  is  due  to  the 
long  floats  in  either  warp  or  filling 
effect  satins. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 
Although  the  yarns  used  to  make 
crinoline  are  what  are  called  coarse 
yarns  it  must  not  be  thought  that 
they  may  be  neglected  in  any  way  in 
the  carding  and  spinning,  because 
coarse  yarns  should  not  be  thrown  to- 
gether any  more  than  the  finer  counts 
of  yarns.  We  should  not  turn  our  at- 
tention from  the  carding  and  spinning 
of  coarse  yarns  and  let  them  be  run 
through  the  different  machines  until 
the  required  count  is  made,  but  we 
should  give  special  attention  to  the 
production  end  of  these  yarns,  as  it  is 
here  we  can  make  the  best  showing. 
In  coarse  counts  of  yarns  it  should  be 
our  aim  to  get  as  large  a  production 
from  each  machine  as  possible  and 

NOT  OVERLOAD  THE  MACHINE, 

and  at  the  same  time  produce  as  good 
a  finished  yarn  as  possible.  Another 
thing,  when  making  coarse  counts  of 
yarn  we  are  not  required  to  take  out 
as  large  a  percentage  of  waste  as 
when  we  are  making  the  firmer 
counts,  and  while  enough  waste 
should  be  taken  out  so  that  the  yarn 
will  not  be  bunchy,  still  it  will  be 
at  once  seen  that  the  settings  will 
not  be  as  "close"  as  when  the  firmer 
counts  of  yarn  are  being   made. 

A  low-grade,  short- staple  class  of 
cotton  is  generally  used  for  making 
the  class  of  goods  under  description. 
Sometimes  this  is  used  straight  but 
some  mills  use  waste  from  the  comber 
in  the  mixing  as  well  as  the  low-grade 
cotton.      Generally 

TWO   PROCESSES 

of  picking  and  opening  are  used,  the 
speed  of  the  beater  being  around  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  beats  per 
inch  being  between  42  and  45.  The 
beater   is   run    at  a   higher   speed   on 


short-staple  cotton  for  two  reasons: 
First,  because  it  is  necessary  to  run  it 
at  a  higher  rate  of  speed  in  order  to 
get  all  the  dirt  out;  and  second,  be- 
cause it  can  be  run  at  a  higher  speed 
because  there  is  not  so  much  liability 
of  making  neps,  for  the  reason  that 
the  staple  is  short  and  does  not  ball 
up  as  easily  as  the  long-staple  cot- 
tons. 

The  weight  of  the  whole  lap  at  the 
finisher  picker  is  about  40  pounds,  or 
about  14%  ounces  to  the  yard  in 
length. 

THE   CARDS 

are  set  so  that  the  tops  are  about  12- 
1,000  of  an  inch  away  from  the  cylin- 
der wire  (coarse  wire  being  used  on 
both  cylinder  and  doffer  fillets).  The 
licker-in  knives  are  set  as  close  a.B 
possible  without  touching,  so  that  they 
may  throw  out  as  much  dirt  as  pos- 
sible. The  draft  of  this  machine 
should  be  about  100,  the  production 
from  750  to  1,000  pounds  for  this  class 
of  goods  and  the  weight  of  sliver  per 
yard  at  the  front  about  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  ones  in  charge  of  the  cards 
should  see  that  the  cards  are  properly 
ground  because  when  running  large 
productions  of  low-grade  cotton  the 
wire  on  the  fillet  becomes  dull  and 
does  not  perform  its  duty. 

TWO    PROCESSES    OF    DRAWING 

are  used,  generally  6  ends  up.  As 
the  weight  per  yard  of  sliver  is  heavy 
at  the  drawing  frame  for  this  class 
of  goods,  a  point  to  look  out  for  is  to 
see  that  the  weights  attached  to  the 
top  rolls  are  sufficient  to  hold  them 
down  so  that  they  will  not  jump.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  point  of 
the  finisher  drawing  should  be  about 
75  grains  and  the  speed  of  the  front 
roll  about  400  revolutions  per  minute; 
the  hank  roving  at  the  slubbers 
about  .40;  at  the  first  intermediate 
fiy  frame  1.40  and  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate 3.75  to  4.25  hank.  From  the 
second  intermediate  frame  the  roving 
goes  to  the  spinning  frame,  where  it  is 
spun  into  the  required  yarn,  or  from 
20s  to  26s,  being  used  for  this  class  of 
goods,  i.e.,  crinolines. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


357 


Dyeing     Particulars. 

Crinoline  linings  are  generally 
dyed  with  a  cheap  logwood  black. 

Make  up  a  solution  of  logwood  ex- 
tract at  6  degrees  Tw.  Add  common 
wood  acid,  6  degrees  Tw.,  1  pint  acid, 
1  gallon  logwood,  6  degrees  Tw.  Run 
through  two-box  machine,  pieces  run- 
ning into  liquor  8  to  10  times,  and 
through  nip  of  two  rubber  rollers, 
liquor  at  the  boil.  Dry  on  cylinder 
drying  machine,  and  run  through 
chrome  bath  of  i/^  pound  bichromate 
soda  to  1  gallon  water,  and  run 
through  a  steaming  box  to  develop 
the  color.  Wash  well  in  water.  Starch, 
Vz  pound  dextrin,  1  gallon  water. 
Boil  the  starch  up  for  one  hour  before 
starching.  Dry  on  cylinders  or  on 
tenter  frames,  as  required.  Some 
crinoline  linings  are  calendered  in 
friction  calender,  and  afterwards  em- 
bossed on  embossing  machine  with  a 
slash  pattern. 

Some  crinoline  linings  are  starched 
by  hand  in  the  tub,  and  stretched  on 
a  stenter  frame  and  dried  on  the 
frame. 

♦-»-# 

DAMASK  FABRICS 

The  name  damask  is  technically 
applied  to  certain  classes  of  fabrics, 
richly  decorated  with  figures  of  fo- 
liage, fruits,  scrolls  and  other  orna- 
mental patterns,  usually  of  a  large  and 
elaborate  character. 

The  weaves  usually  employed  are 
twills  (mostly  satin)  and  the  figures 
in  the  fabric  are  made  by  alternately 
exchanging  warp  for  weft  surface  oi 
vice  versa. 

The  materials  employed  vary  ac- 
cording to  the  purpose  to  which  the 
fabrics  are  to  be  applied.  In  the  man- 
ufacture of  upholstery  cloth  for  hang- 
ings and  furniture  covering,  silk  or 
worsted  is  used,  while  for  table  cov- 
ers, towels,  napkins,  etc.,  linen  is 
generally  employed,  except  in  the 
cheapest  grades,  when  cotton  is  the 
material  used. 

The  name  was  derived  from  the  city 
of  Damascus,  when  that  city  was  a 
center  for  the  production  of  textile 
fabrics,    and    originally     was     applied 


only  to  silken  fabrics,  whose  designs 
were  very  elaborately  woven  in  colors 
and  often  with  gold  thread. 

About  the  twelfth  century  the  above- 
mentioned  city,  even  then  long  cele- 
brated for  the  production  of  its 
looms,  so  far  outstripped  all  other 
places  for  beauty  of  design,  that  her 
silken  textiles  were  in  demand  every- 
where, and  thus,  as  often  happens, 
traders  fastened  the  name  of  Damas- 
cen  or  Damask  upon  every  silken  fab- 
ric richly  wrought  and  curiously  de- 
signed, no  matter  whether  it  came  or 
not  from  Damascus. 

In  order  to  explain  the  modus  oper- 
andi for  the  production  of  damask  in 
this  country,  suppose  we  place  our- 
selves in  the  position  of  a  public  de- 
signer, whose  specialty  is  the  design- 
ing of  patterns  for  such  fabrics. 

THE   SKETCH. 

The  first  step  in  the  operation  is  to 
prepare  a  dozen  or  more  sketches, 
which  are  to  be  shown  to  manufactur- 
ers to  take  their  choice.  A  specimen 
of  such  is  illustrated  by  Fig.  1  (re- 
duced), the  original  of  which  is 
drawn  on  ordinary  tracing  paper,  the 
exact  size,  as  it  will  appear  in  the 
cloth. 

This  design  or  sketch  is  to  be  made 
into  a  damask  table  cover,  having  50 
threads  warp  and  44  picks  weft  per 
inch,  the  figure  of  which  is  to  be  a  5- 
leaf  4 — 1  sitin  twill  (warp  face)  and 
the  ground  a  5-leaf  1 — 4  satin  twill 
(weft  face). 

PROPER  DESIGN  PAPER. 

The  next  step  to  be  taken  is  to  se- 
lect the  proper  designing  paper,  the 
size  of  which,  that  is,  the  number  of 
rectangles,  warp  and  weft,  in  each 
large  square,  must  be  in  the  exact  pro- 
portion to  the  number  of  threads 
(warp)  and  picks  (weft)  in  one  inch 
of  the  finished  cloth.  The  mode  of  fig- 
i;ring  is  after  the  following  manner: 

Paper  for  warp  ruled  eight  rec- 
tangles per  large  square:  paper  for 
weft  ruled  in  the  same  ratio  to  eight 
as  44  is  tn  50. 

Operation:  x  :  8  :  :  44  :  50;  there- 
fore 44x8  equals  352  divided  by  50 
equals     7.04,     answer,     7.04     is     near 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


859 


enough  to  call  It  7;  therefore,  8x7  Is 
the  proper  size  of  design  paper  re- 
quired. 

TIE-UP. 
Then  the  tie-up  must  be  considered, 
which  in  the  present  instance  will  be 
a  600-hook,  with   the  tie-up  as  illus- 


rectangles    (warp)    of    the    designing 
paper  selected. 

That  portion  of  the  border  shown 
at  A,  in  conformity  with  the  tie-up, 
should  occupy  the  first  15  squares  or 
120  rectangles;  that  shown  at  B  the 
next   15    squares   or    120    rectangles; 


trated  by  Fig.  2  French  system — 
point  for  border,  and  straight  through 
for  body,  in  six  divisions. 

The  next  process  is  to  enlarge  the 
design  as  it  appears  in  the  sketch,  so 
that  one  repeat  will  exactly  fit  ou  600 


that  portion  shown  at  C  is  not  re- 
quired on  the  design  paper,  because  It 
is  a  repetition  of  that  part  shown  at 
A,  but  simply  reversed. 

For  the   body  of  the  design  shown 
at  D,  45  squares  or  360  rectangles  will 


360 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


be  required,  which  will  complete  the 
600  hooks  of  the  machine.  Summing 
them  up  they  will  be   as  follows: 

Portion  A=15  sq.  X 8  =  120  rectangles!   Border. 
Portion  B  =  15  sq.  XS  =  120  rectangles  5 
Portion  D  =  45  sq.X 8  =  360  rectangles] 

>  Body. 

600  rectangles  J 

In  order  to  ascertain  how  many 
squares  or  rectangles  the  design  will 
oecupv  weft- wise  the  sketch  must  be 
measured,  which  in  this  case  happens 
to    be    seven    inches.     Therefore,   44 


manner,  or  as  shown  by  a  portion  of 
the  design,  taken  from  sketch  at  E, 
and  illustrated  by  Fig.  3. 

1.  Paint  in  the  figure  in  solid  red 
(vermilion  or  scarlet  lake),  keeping 
well  within  the  lines. 

2.  Paint  in  the  1 — 4  satin  twill  in 
the  ground,  running  the  twill  toward 
the  right. 

3.  Paint  in  the  4 — 1  satin  twill  in 
the  figure  by  using  black  paint  over 
the  red.    Twill  to  the  left. 


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Fi| 

picks  per  inch  times  7  inches  equals 
308  rectangles;  but  as  5,  the  number 
of  threads  in  one  repeat  of  weave 
(satin),  will  not  divide  into  308  even- 
ly, 310  n:ust  be  taken  (310  divided  by 
5  equals  62).  Therefore,  the  design 
will  occupy  600  rectangles  (warp) 
times   310   rectangles    (weft). 

PAINTING  IN  THE  DESIGN. 

After  the  design  is  transferred  to 
the  design  paper,  the  next  process  is 
to  paint  in  the  weave,  in  the  following 


In  joining  the  ground  and  figure 
twills  great  care  must  be  exercised 
so  as  to  effect  a  clear  outline  between 
figure  and  ground,  which  is  done  by 
the   following   method: 

Where  it  is  possible  to  bring  a  riser 
(black)  of  the  ground  beside  a  sinker 
(white)  in  the  figure  weave  or  vice 
versa,  it  must  be  done  and  m  some 
cases,  where  the  risers  and  sinkers 
will  not  join,  it  is  well  to  alter  the 
weaves  slightly  so  as  to  effect  it;  and 
where  it  is  impossible  to  do  this,  then 


A  COTTON  PABRICS  GLOSSARY 


361 


the  weaves  of  each  must  not  be  ex- 
tended so  as  to  actually  join,  but  a 
certain  length  of  weft  in  the  ground 
must  join  a  certain  length  of  warp  in 
the  figure.  (See  portion  of  design,  Fig. 
3.) 

When  painting  in  the  satin  twill  of 
the  ground  in  the  border  of  the  design 
it  is  necessary  that  the  twill  should 
extend  to  the  right  for  one-half  the 
distance  and  to  the  left  for  the  re- 
mainder, therefore,  as  this  breaking 
of  the  twill  line  causes  a  slight  im- 
perfection, which  is  unavoidable,  care 
must  be  used  so  as  to  make  the  break 
in  such  portion  of  the  border  as  will 
render  it  unnoticeable. 

Again  it  is  necessary  also  to  be 
careful  so  as  to  make  the  weave  of 
the  border  join  perfectly  with  that  of 
the  body;  and  this  is  done  by  care- 
fully examining  the  tie-up  so  as  to  as- 
certain which  warp  threads  will  join 
each  other  in  the  cloth  and  take  stepa 
to    make    a   perfect   juncture. 

In  this  particular  instance,  warp 
thread  No.  1,  which  is  the  first  of  the 
border,  is  in  juxtaposition  with  wary 
thread  No.  241,  which  is  the  first  of 
the  body.  (See  Tie-up,  Fig.  2)  There- 
lore,  the  satin  twill  of  the  body,  com- 
mencing with  warp  thread  No.  241, 
should  continue,  without  a  break,  the 
satin  twill  of  the  border  finished  at 
warp  thread  No.  1. 

WEAVES   TO   USE. 

Although  in  the  majority  of  damask 
fabrics  nothing  but  satin  twill  weaves 
are  employed  (principally  5  and  8  har- 
ness), very  good  effects  are  sometimes 
obtained  by  combining  other  weaves 
with  the  satin  twills.  For  instance, 
one  side  of  a  leaf  may  be  painted  in 
with  a  satin  twill  weave,  and  the  other 
side  may  be  a  straight  twill,  thus  giv- 
ing the  leaf  a  shaded  effect,  which 
may  be  very  pleasing. 

Another  method  of  shading  and  the 
one  generally  employed  is  to  gradually 
change  from  warp-up  to  weft-up  or 
vice  versa,  as  illustrated  by  Fig.  4. 

In  damask  there  is  probably  a 
greater  field  for  the  production  of 
large  figures  than  in  any  other  class 
of  weaving.  There  are  two  methods  of 


weaving  damask.  First,  by  the  use  of 
the  ordinary  jacquard,  which  is  dis- 
cussed in  the  present  article,  and  sec- 
ond, by  the  use  of  what  is  called  the 
compound  pressure  harness. 

By  the  first  method,  although  very 
elaborate  figures  can  be  woven  and  a 
fine  cloth  produced,  yet  by  the  second 
method  a  command  is  obtained  over 
four  or  five  times  as  many  warp 
threads  as  by  the  first,  thus  allowing 
the  production  of  a  fabric  of  much 
finer  texture  and  even  more  elaborate 
ornamentation. 


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Fig.  4. 

A  description  of  damask  weaving 
by  the  use  of  the  compound  pressure 
harness  will  be  given  later. 

Where  damasks  are  made  all  of  one 
color,  which  is  generally  the  case,  as 
in  white  linen  table  covers,  the  effect 
is  given  by  the  threads  lying  at  right 
angles  to  each  other,  and  the  light 
falling  upon  them  brings  the  pattern 
in  bold  relief  and  makes  it  easily  vis- 
ible. 

FINISHING    OF   CLOTH. 

As  it  is  Impossible  in  the  scope  of 
the  present  article  to  describe  the 
bleaching,  dyeing  and  finishing  of  all 
the  various  damask  fabrics,  we  can  at 
least  say  this — that  in  the  case  of  the 
linen  table  covers,  towels,  etc.,  all  the 
finishing  required  is  bleaching,  starch- 
ing and  pressing. 


362 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAtlV 


But  as  the  beauty  of  the  fabric 
largely  depends  upon  its  whiteness,  it 
is  essential  that  the  bleaching  of  the 
cloth  must  be  very  carefully  done. 

It  is  on  account  of  the  excellence 
of  her  bleacheries  that  Ireland  has 
been  able  to  make  Irish  linen  famous 
the  world  over. 


Carding   and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Cotton  damask  is  made  in  several 
grades  and  should  be  considered  as 
being  made  in  mills  equipped  with 
machinery  for  making  medium  and 
high-class  goods.  The  grades  of  cot- 
ton used  for  this  class  of  cloth  are 
middling  to  good  middling,  the  staple 
varying  from  1  1-16  to  11  inches 
strong,  according  to  the  grade  of  dam- 
ask to  be  made. 

THE  MIXING 
should  be  as  large  as  possible  and,  if 
good  waste  is  used,  i.  e.,  sliver  waste 
from  the  front  of  the  cards,  and  draw- 
ings, also  sliver  waste  from  sliver  lap 
machines  and  combers,  and  cut  roving 
waste  from  the  slubber  and  fly  frames, 
it  should  not  be  used  in  larger  propor- 
tions than  1  to  3.  In  up-to-date  mills, 
and  in  fact  most  mills  nowadays,  it  is 
the  general  custom  to  have  a  waste 
machine  into  which  the  cut  waste 
from  the  slubber  and  fly  frames  is 
picked.     This  is  called 

A  WASTE  MACHINE. 
This  machine  is  constructed  so  as  to 
take  out  all  the  twist  in  the  roving 
and  generally  has  for  this  purpose  two 
or  three  porcupine  beaters,  and  the 
cut  roving  waste  is  delivered  in  a 
fluffy  sheet,  from  which  all  the  twist 
has  been  taken.  The  good  sliver  waste 
from  the  machines  above  mentioned 
is  mixed  with  the  raw  stock,  while 
the  cut  roving  waste,  after  being  run 
through  the  waste  machine,  is  fed  to 
a  picker  and  made  into  a  lap  of  the 
same  weight  as  the  lap  being  used  at 
the  finisher  picker,  for  this  class  of 
goods,  and  then  the  waste  lap 
is  run  through  with  the  raw  stock  lap 
at  the  finisher  picker  in  the  proportion 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  of 
cut  waste,  the  cut  waste  being  gen- 
«irally  put  so  that  it  will  come  in  the 
center  of  the  delivered  lap. 


The  cotton,  after  being  mixed.  Is 
put  through  a  hopper  opener  and 
either  two  or  three  processes  of  pick- 
ers, two  processes  being  best,  the 
speed  of  beater  being  1,050  revolutions 
per  minute  for  openers,  1,500  for 
breakers  and  1,450  for  finishers,  also 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute  for  in- 
termediate pickers,  when  used.  This 
gives  about  42  beats  per  inch  at  the 
finisher.  The  weight  of  laps  should  be 
40  pounds  at  breaker,  37  pounds  at 
intermediate  and  36  pounds  at  fin- 
isher. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  set  close,  the  speed  of  the 
flats  making  incomplete  revolutions 
every  50  minutes.  The  draft  of  the 
card  for  this  class  of  goods  is  about 
110  to  125,  doffer  24  inches,  about  13 
revolutions  per  minute,  26-inch 
doffer,  about  12,  the  production  being 
about  500  pounds  per  week.  In  the 
drawing  frames  the  rolls  should  be  set 
%  of  an  inch  longer  than  the  staple 
between  the  first  and  second  rolls, 
and  increase  Vs  of  an  inch  between 
each  set  of  rolls  toward  the  back.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  should  be  about 
403  revolutions  per   minute. 

The  general  instruction  given  in  a 
previous  lesson  on  ginghams  may  be 
followed,  except  in  the  case  of  the 
hook  roving. 

IN  THE  FINER  GRADES 
of    damask   the    comber    is   used    and 
then  only   two  processes  of  drawings 
are  used  instead  of  three,   as   is   the 
custom  when  combers  are  not  used. 

Earlier  in  tlie  lesson  we  have  stat- 
ed that  cut-roving  waste  was  used  in 
the  mixing.  Cut  roving  results  from 
badly  made  bobbins;  bobbins  not  be- 
ing marked,  it  being  better  to  cut  the 
roving  off  of  these  bobbins  rather 
than  to  run  the  risk  of  getting  them 
mixed  up  with  other  hanks  of  roving; 
bobbins  on  which  there  is  a  large 
amount  of  single  or  double,  which  is 
generally  not  allowed,  but  which  will 
be  made  in  spite  of  the  most  careful 
watching;  bad  bobbins  resulting  from 
breakdowns  to  machinery,  and  bob- 
bins which  are  too  small  to  send  to 
the  spinning  or  mule  rooms.  It  is  best 
to  have  only  one  hand  to 
cut    off  these  so-called   bad   bobbins 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


In  larger  mills  one  hand  is  employed 
to  do  this,  but  it  is  the  general  rule  to 
have  the  third  hands  on  fly  frames 
do  it.  Under  no  consideration  should 
the  help  (fly  frame  hands)  be  allowed 
to  cut  off  the  bad  work  which  they 
make. 

The  cut  roving  should  be  sorted  into 
piles  of  different  lengths  of  staple, 
also  into  different  piles,  as  to  kinds; 
for  example,  Egyptian  should  not  be 
put  -with  Allan,  even  if  of  the  same 
grade  and  length  of  staple. 

WHEN    CUTTING   OFF  ROVING 

the  hand  should  be  careful  not  to  cut 
the  bobbin,  because  this  in  time  will 
make  the  layers  nearest  to  the  bobbin 
stick  to  the  wood,  when  they  are 
again  used.  The  bobbins  containing  a 
small  amount  of  single  and  double 
should  be  pulled  off  by  the  hand  mak- 
ing them,  who  may  be  found  by  the 
marks  on  the  bobbin,  if  she  allows  the 
bobbin  to  go  to  the  spinning  or  mule 
room.  The  hand  gathering  the  roving 
waste  should  be  careful  not  to  mix 
the  different  staples  and  kinds,  and  it 
should  be  taken  to  the  picker  room 
and  placed  in  the  different  bins  pro- 
vided for  roving  waste,  which  bins 
SHOULD  BE  PLAINLY  MARKED 
as  to  staple  and  kind.  The  one  collect- 
ing the  waste  should  report  all  cut 
waste  found,  and  also  those  making  an 
excessive  amount  of  waste,  to  over- 
seer. The  overseer  should  keep  an  ac- 
count of  this  roving  waste,  as  well  as 
the  good  waste,  so  that  he  may  at  all 
times  know  just  how  much  is  made.  In 
this  way  he  is  always  in  touch  with 
the  waste  made  In  different  depart- 
ments and  always  knows  whether  too 
much  waste  is  being  made.  The  boss 
picker  is  the  best  man  to  weigh  all 
wastes,  because  it  is  to  his  depart- 
ment that  the  kick  is  made  on  account 
of  bad  laps.  Reports  are  generally 
sent  in  once  a  week  with  the  amount 
of  waste  for  each  day. 


The  kier  is  the  ordinary  bleaching 
kier.  After  second  boil,  run  through 
washing  machine.  Pass  through  solu- 
tion of  bleaching  powder  at  i/^  degree 
Tw.  and  plait  down  in  bin  for  four 
hours.  Pass  through  sulphuric  acid  14 
degree  Tw.  and  wash  well  with  wash- 
ing machine,  until  all  trace  of  acid  is 
eliminated. 

Starching:  8  to  10  ounces  corn- 
starch; two  ounces  white  cocoanut  oil 
softening;  one  gallon  water.  Pass 
through  starch  mangle  and  dry  on 
cylinder  drying  machine. 

Damp  pieces  and  give  a  calender 
finish. 


Damask  Cloth  Bleaching. 
First,  boil  with  4  degrees  Tw.  caus- 
tic potash  for  8  to  10  hours.  Run 
through  washing  machine  and  place  in 
kier  for  second  boil,  with  4  degrees 
Tw.  caustic  potash.  BoU  8  to  10  hours. 


ANOTHER  HAMMOCK  CLOTH 

Hammock  cloth  is  a  fabric  compos- 
ed of  either  jute,  cotton,  silk,  silkaline 
or  linen,  and  is  intended  for  just  such 
use  as  the  name  implies,  that  of  a 
swinging  couch  or  hammock.  The  all- 
cotton  hammock  is  the  most  popular, 
and  finds  the  readiest  market.  Ham- 
mocks composed  of  other  material 
than  all  cotton  are  the  exception,  not 
the  rule.    The 

TWO  MOST  IMPORTANT  FACTORS 

to  be  considered  in  the  construction  of 
this  fabric  are:  strength,  and  a  pleas- 
ing color  arrangement  or  combination, 
good  yarns  being  used  to  provide  the 
proper  amount  of  elasticity  of  fabric, 
therefore  strength. 

Hammock  cloth,  when  manufactur- 
ed into  that  commodity  known  as 
hammocks,  is  more  of  a  luxury  than 
an  actual  necessity,  being  used  only 
for  outdoor  purposes  in  warm  weath- 
er. Hence  the  importance  of  attrac- 
tive 

COLORING. 

Dry  colors  are  used  in  cheap  grades 
such  as  retail  at  about  75  cents.  Fast 
colors  are  used  in  expensive  grades, 
the  price  of  which  is  from  $1.50  up- 
ward. In  all  cases  bright,  rich,  lively 
shades  of  color  are  necessary.  Those 
colors  most  commonly  used  are  red, 
blue,  purple,  pearl,  black,  white, 
green,  as  well  as  others  in  both  light 
and  dark  shades. 


364 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Hammock  cloth  is  most  successfully 
woven  on  ihe  (lobby  loom,  the  very 
cheap  grades  being  made  vi'ith  a 

SCRIM  WEAVE 
and  from  6  to  8  ends  and  picks  per 
inch,  i  cotton  yarn.  By  using  the 
dobby  loom  very  rapid  changes  are 
possible,  by  altering  the  drawing-in 
drait  wherever  necessary.  This  is  im- 
portant in  sampling  anC  is  rather  ex- 
pensive when  applied  to  the  jacquard 
loom. 

In  creating  hammock  styles,  very 
elaborate  i.i-itation  jacquard  figures 
are  produced  by  taking  a  design  suit- 


To  replenish  a  warp  in  the  loom,  if 
the  same  harnesses  are  to  be  used  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  warp  just 
finisaed,  the  new  warp  is  placed  on 
the  floor  directly  behind  the  loom  to 
be  filled,  and  the  ends  of  both  warps 
tied  together  by  using  a  flat  knot,  the 
same  as  is  used  in  tying  in  carpet 
warps.     This  fabric  requires 

ABSOLUTELY  NO  FINISH 

and  is  made  up  into  hammocks  imme- 
di  tely  after  leaving  the  loom. 

Hammock  cloth  is  made  from  34  to 
4^  inches  in  width,  and  always  of 
three   or  more  ply  yarns. 


Hammock   Cloth. 


able  for  a  dobby  Icom  of  about  20  har 
ness,  generally  twill  effects;  and  by 
dissecting  the  design  and  applying  the 
parts  (straight  or  reversed)  to  a  series 
of  broad  and  narrow  colored  stripes  in 
the  warp  or  warp  pattern,  we  product; 
£n  effect  both  intricate  and  attractive. 
Care  should  be  taken,  however,  to  in- 
sert several  small  stripes  of  plain 
weave,  as  this  prevents  the  cloth  from 
pulling  out  of  shape  on  account  of  the 
loose  texture  permitted  by  the  use  of 
twill  weave. 

In  making  a  w'.grp  for  a  hammock, 
the  colored  and  plain  yarns  are  spool- 
ed upon  six-inch  spcols.  These  are  set 
up  in  the  creel  rack  by  the  w'arper,  in 
accordance  with  the  pattern  or  color 
arrangem.ent  desired. 

THE  WARP 

is  made  upon  a  section  mill,  each  sec- 
tion being  warped  and  run  upon  the 
rrill  the  desired  length:  the  number  of 
sections  in  the  completed  warp  is  fig- 
ured out  by  the  warper,  according  to 
number  of  ends  to  be  used,  an(J  the 
capacity  of  the  creel  rack. 


A  good  grade  of  hammock  cloth  can 
be  produced  by  using:  3-lOs  cotton 
warp  and  filling;  750  reed,  42  inches 
wide:  18  ends,  16  picks  per  inch; 
weight  81  ounces;  measure  about  38 
inches  from  loom. 


WARP    PATTERN: 

19   Ijlght    green 

S   White 

4  6   Navy    blue 

4    Black 

23   T  ight    green 

Read  from  top  to  bottom. 

4   White 

then  reverse. 

15   Light    blue 

4   Light    green 

29    Dark    green 

4   White 

C4   Navy  blue 

S   White 

Do  the  same  tn  drawing  Ir 

64   Navv    blue 

12   Black 

64   Light    green 

10  Black 

7S   ends. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

For  this  class  of  cloth,  either  a  low- 
grade  of  short  stapled  cotton  is  used, 
or,  as  is  more  generally  the  custom, 
waste.  When  straight  cotton  Is  used, 
quantity  is  more  to  be  looked  out  for 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


365 


than  quality.  By  this  it  is  not  meant 
that  quality  is  not  considered  at  all, 
but  that  quantity  or  production  is 

THE  MOST  IMPORTANT  POINT 
of  the  two  for  this  class  of  goods.  The 
quality  should  he  the  next  point.    Get 


while  the  production  may  be  greater 
for  a  short  length  of  time,  the  ends 
breaking  down  at  the  front  and  the 
time  lost  in  piecing  them  up  con- 
stitute only  one  of  the  items  tha-t  more 
than   makes   up   for   the  loss   in   pro- 


all  the  production  that  is  possible 
from  every  machine,  but  always  have 
one  thing  in  mind,  that  it  is  not  al- 
ways the  greatest  speed  of  the  front 
roll  together  with  the  heaviest  weight 
per  yard  of  sheet,  sliver,  roving  or 
yarn  being  delivered  that  gives  the 
most  production  at  the  end  of  the 
week. 

There  is  always  a  speed  over  which 
it  is  folly  to  drive  a  machine  because. 


duction  of  a  more  slowly  driven  ma- 
chine, which  will  run  more  steadily 
and  make  evener  yarn. 

ANOTHER  THING 

that  must  be  taken  into  consideration 
when  reading  these  articles  is  that, 
while  we  describe  the  different  proc- 
esses through  which  the  cotton  has  to 
go  to  make  the  required  finished  yarn 
for  the  cloth,  also  the  general  settings 


300 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  the  macMnes  required,  it  would  be 
almost  impossible  for  one  mill  to  make 
every  cloth  that  will  be  described,  so 
that  it  must  be  understood  by  the 
reader,  when  reading  the  details 
of  the  different  grades  and  kinds  of 
cloth,  that  one  mill  makes  only  several 
cloths  of  the  same  grade.  So, 
IN  ORDER  TO  AVOID  CONFUSION 
in  the  future,  let  us  divide  the  mills 
into  three  different  parts,  first  those 
using  waste  and  low-grade  cotton; 
second,  those  using  low  and  middling 
grades  of  cotton,  and  third,  those  using 
middling  and  high  grades  of  cotton. 
While  the  differences  are  not  so  great 
between  the  first  and  second  and  the 
second  and  third  as  between  the  first 
and  third,  still  the  differences  are 
there  in  the  number  of  processes  used 
and  the  size  of  rolls,  also  size  of  wire 
on  certain  machines.  All  that  is  asked 
of  the  reader  is  to  consider  which 
division  of  the  mills  the  cloth  under 
description  belongs  to  and  the  rest 
will  be  very  clear.  Hammock  cloth, 
of  course,  belongs  to  the  first-named 
division. 

For  this  class  of  goods  the  cotton  is 
put  through  opener  and  picker;  the 
speed  of  beater  is  one  of  the  points 
to  be  looked  after. 

AT  THE  CARD 
coarse  wire  is  used  on  both  fillets  and 
the  speed  and  setting  of  the  doffer 
comb  should  be  looked  after  to  see 
that  it  is  properly  stripping  the  dof- 
fer. At  the  drawing  frame  a  smaller 
second  roll  should  be  used,  so  that  the 
rolls  may  be  set  close  enough  to- 
gether, as  the  staple  of  the  cotton 
being  used  is  very  short.  At  the 
slubber  and  fly  frame  this  is  also 
true.  The  one  watchword  with  this 
class  of  goods  is  production. 

Particulars  for  Dyeing  Yarn. 
LIGHT    OLIVE. 

One-half  per  cent  benzo  dark  green 
GG;  %  per  cent  chrysophenine;  20  per 
cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  enter 
at  120  degrees  F.,  and  raise  to  180 
degrees  F.,  give  six  turns. 

Benzo  dark  green  GG,  and  chryso- 
phenine are  colors  from  Elberfeld  Far- 
benfabriken. 


VIOLET. 

1%  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R;  20 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda; 
enter  at  120  degrees  F.;  give  six 
turns  to  180  degrees;  color  from 
Elberfeld   Farbenfabriken. 

YELLOW. 

21^  per  cent  fast  cotton  yellow  C, 
extra;  20  per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per 
cent  soda;  enter  at  120  degrees  F.; 
give  six  turns  to  180  degrees  F.;  color 
from  C.   Bischoff  and  Company. 

ORANGE. 

2  per  cent  fast  cotton  orange  6R, 
Ex.;  20  per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent 
soda;  enter  at  120  degrees  F. ;  give 
six  turns  to  180  degrees  F. ;  color 
from  C.  Bischoff  and  Company. 

RED. 

3%  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  GL;  ^ 
per  cent  chrysophenine;  20  per  cent 
Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  enter  at 
120  degrees  F;  give  six  turns  to  180 
degrees  F.;  color  from  Elberfeld  Far- 
benfabriken. 

BLACK. 

5  per  cent  direct  deep  black  E,  ex- 
tra 30  per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent 
soda;  enter  at  180  degrees  F. ;  get  up 
to  boil,  give  eight  turns;  Farbenfab- 
riken of  Elberfeld. 

PURPLE. 

3^^  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R. ;  30 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda; 
enter  at  150  degrees  F.;  and  give  eight 
turns;   Elberfeld  Farbenfabriken. 

BLUE. 

3%  per  cent  fast  direct  blue  R.;  30 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda; 
enter  at  150  degrees  F.;  give  eight 
turns  at  boil.   C.  Bischoff  &  Company. 

BROWN. 

3  per  cent  direct  brown  NX;  30  per 
cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  enter 
at  150  degrees  F.;  give  eight  turns  at 
boil;  C.  Bischoff  and  Company.  A 
great  variety  of  colors  are  used  in 
hammock  cloths. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


867 


TERRY  CLOTH  OR  TURKISH 
TOWELING. 

Terry  cloth  or  turkish  toweling  is 
a  fabric  composed  entirely  of  cotton 
yarns.  In  effect  it  is  a  single  cloth, 
having  rows  of  loops,  formed  by  warp 
yarn,  in  regular  order,  on  each  side  of 
the  cloth. 

In  making  this  fabric,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  two  beams.  No.  1,  or  the 
bottom  beam,  contains  the  warp  for 
making  the  body  or  ground  of  the 
cloth.  No  2,  the  top  or  terry  beam, 
contains  the  warp  for  making  the 
loops  in  the  cloth  or  terry  effect. 
Terry  cloth  is  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  towels  and  Turkish  bath  robes, 
and,  as  to  color,  there  are  solid 
bleached  towels,  towels  having  side 
and  cross  border  color  effects,  also 
stripe  patterns  for  the  bath  robes,  fa- 
vorite colors  being  navy  blue,  old 
gold,  cherry  red,  light  green,  etc.  The 
warps  are  of  2-20s  to  2-30s  cotton  and 
the  filling  l-20s  to  l-30s  cotton. 

Terry  cloth  is  a  narrow  fabric 
measuring  about  25  inches  from  loom 
and  can  be  made  on  the  roller  or 
cam  loom  or  the  dobby  or  jacquard 
loom,  either  style  of  loom,  of  course, 
having  the  terry  motion  attached;; 
the  jacquard  machine  being  only 
necessary  in  making  fancy  border 
effects  in  conjunction  with  the  filling 
box  motion.  Very  good  cross  border 
patterns  are  produced  on  a  mutual 
loom,  having  terry  motion  and  dobby 
attached. 

The  terry  weave  is  the  three  har- 
ness twill  weave  dissected,  and  the 
different  parts  of  this  weave  placed 
together  again  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
permit  the  forming  of  a  series  of  loops 
on  each  side  of  the  cloth  in  regular 
order,  by  the  top  or  terry  warp  weav- 
ing slack,  using  only  sufficient  weight 
to  permit  of  correct  shedding. 

In  making  terry  on  a  roller  or  cam 
loom,  four  harnesses  and  four  cams 
are  necessary,  two  cams  being  warp 
effect  and  two  cams  filling  effect.  The 
top  beam  containing  terry  warp  is 
drawn  in  on  first  and  third  harnesses 
and  the  bottom  or  ground  warp  on  sec- 


ond and  fourth  harness,  reeded  two 
ends  per  split  and  placed  in  the  loom, 
the  first  and  third  harnesses  being 
strapped  up  to  the  first  roller,  the 
second  and  fourth  harnesses  being 
strapped  up  to  the  second  roller.  The 
harnesses  are  then  connected  with  the 
treadles  at  the  bottom  of  loom  by 
means  of  jack  straps,  these  treadles 
being  in  turn  operated  by  the  cams, 
which  are  set  on  a  cam  shaft. 

The  cams  for  this  weave  are  thosw 

of  a      -- ^—5-   45  degrees  twill,  and 

are  so  arranged  on  the  cam  shaft  as  to 
produce  the  terry  effect.  The  warps 
are  drawn  in  1,  2,  3,  4,  weaving  one 
terry,  one  ground  end. 

The  cams  are  arranged  as  follows: 


One 


Warp  effect  cam. 


One  Filling  effect  cam. 

2 
2 

One  Warp  effect  cam. 

1 
1 

One  Filllns  effect  cam. 

2 

WEAVE. 

First  pick,  first,  fourth  harness  up; 
2,  3,  harness  down.  Second  pick,  first, 
second  harness  up;  3,  4,  harness  down. 
Third  pick,  first,  second,  harness 
down;  3,  4  harness  up. 

The  terry  motion  is  arranged  thus: 

At  the  bottom  of  the  loom,  near  the 
side,  there  is  a  treadle,  suspended  In 
much  the  same  manner  as  the  cam 
treadles.  To  the  treadle  there  is  an 
iron  (1^  inch)  rod  attached  and  run- 
ning up  the  inside  of  the  loom  and 
connected  with  an  iron  lever,  which 
works  upon  a  fulcrum,  bolted  to  the 
loom  side,  the  loom  driving  shaft  rests 
in  box  or  bearing  on  the  side  of  the 
loom.  This  box  is  so  shaped  that  it 
allows  the  shaft  an  eccentric  motion, 
when  the  terry  treadle  is  forced  down 
by  a  cam,  placed  on  the  lower  loom 
shaft  for  the  purpose. 

When  the  terry  cam,  revolving  on 
the  lower  loom  shaft,  strikes  the  ter- 
ry treadle,  the  rod  connected  thereto 
pulls  down  on  the  lever  connected 
with  the  box  in  which  is  resting  the 
driving  shaft,  the  whole  action  throws 
the  loom  shaft  and  loom  sley  forward 


368 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAUY 


out  of  line,  and  the  top  warp  working 
slack  the  reed  draws  the  yarn 
through;  then  the  terry  treadle  re- 
gaining its  original  position,  the  loom 
shaft  settles  back  to  its  correct  posi- 

1  2  •;  4 

DDfeU  r>esie-n 

■GDB 
DDDQ 
PDDa 
DDDD 

Dana 

DDDD 

aaam 

gg"°Drawins-;n  Draft. 

■  DDD 
DDGD 

oaoa 

uamm        Rpcd  Plan 

1st  Terry.     2d    Ground.     31   Terry.     4th  Gro'jnrt. 

tion  and  the  next  pick  of  the  loom 
binds  in  the  slack  warp,  thus  forming 
the  loop  in  the  cloth — the  terry  mo- 
tion in  this  case  working  for  two  picks 
and   stopping   for   one. 

In  weaving  toweling  on  a  roHqr 
loom,  it  being  of  short  lengths  of 
terry,  the  weaver  allows  the  cloth  to 
weave  terry  for  any  desired  length, 
and  to  weave  solid  cloth  without  the 
loop,  he  throws  the  terry  motion  out 
of  gear  by  dropping  an  iron  finger 
down  on  the  treadle.  This  holds  the 
terry  treadle  out  of  the  way  of  the 
revolving  terry  cam.  This  iron  finger 
is  usually  either  raised  or  lowered  by 
means  of  a  cord,  fastened  to  the  inner 
side  of  the  breast  beam  and  near  the 
end  of  the  loom. 

This  finger  can  be  worked  automati- 
cally by  the  use  of  a  dobby  motion  or 
jacquard  machine. 

The  terry  warp,  by  weaving  slack 
and  forming  the  loops,  will  weave  out 
at  the  rate  of  about  100  or  more  per 
cent  faster  than  the  ground  warp.  It 
is  then  replaced  by  twisting  another 
warp  to  it,  this  operation  taking  place 
at  the  loom  and  without  removing  the 
harnesses. 

A  good  grade  of  terry  cloth  can  be 
made    as    follows: 

Reed — 900,  two  ends  per  dent,  27 
inches  in  reed;  2-30s  cotton  ground 
warp;  2-30s  cotton  terry  warp;  l-30s 
cotton  filling;  36  picks.  Width  from 
loom,  25  inches. 

To  be  drawn  and  woven  as  stated 
above  for  a  roller  loom. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Yarn  to  make  terry  cloth  or  Turkish 
toweling  belongs  to  the  second  divi- 
sion of  mills,  i.  e.,  the  nulls  mak- 
ing cloth  from  low  and  middlin;^ 
grades  of  cotton  (raw  stock).  The 
yarn  is  generally  made  from  cot- 
ton of  about  1-inch  staple.  The  mix- 
ings should  be  as  large  as  possible  and 
good  waste  is  generally  thrown  into 
the  mixing  bin  at  such  times  as  it  is 
usual  to  collect  it  from  the  different 
machines.  It  is  usual  in  all  mills  to 
gather  this  good  waste,  which  is  real- 
ly no  more  than  the  tail  ends  of  laps, 
from  the  pickers,  sliver  which  has  not 
been  properly  coiled  in  the  cans  at  the 
cards,  combers  and  drawing  frames, 
also  any  waste  that  contains  the  prop- 
er length  of  staple,  which  has  been 
made  at  the  different  processes,  which 
from  improper  care  or  handling  or 
some  defect  in  machinery  cannot  be 
used  at  the  succeeding  machine.  This 
waste  is  generally  placed  in  cans  and 
collected  at  regular  intervals  and  car- 
ried to  the  picker  room  and  thrown 
back  into  the  mixing  bins  to  be  used 
over  again  and  is  considered  as  raw 
stock.  Of  course,  it  is  understood  that 
the  different  kinds  of  grades  of  cotton 
are  kept  separate.  This  method  in- 
cludes all  machines  up  to  the  slubber 
and  the  procedure  is  the  same  as  de- 
scribed in  a  previous  article. 

OPENING   AND   PICKING. 

The  cotton  is  passed  through  an 
opener  and  two  processes  of  picking, 
the  weight  of  lap  being  about  40 
pounds  at  the  breaker  and  39  pounds 
at  the  finisher,  the  speed  of  the  beat- 
er being  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  is  a  little  faster  speed  than  is 
used  for  higher  class  of  yarns,  be- 
cause there  is  apt  to  be  more  dirt  and 
foreign  matter  in  the  lower  grades  of 
cotton  and  the  more  beats  per  inch 
you  have  the  more  it  tends  to  clean 
your  cotton. 

There  is  a  limit,  however,  to  the 
speed  at  which  to  run  the  beater,  be- 
cause, if  run  at  too  great  a  speed,  it 
will  tend  to  put  nips  into  the  cotton 
which  are  impossible  to  comb  or  card 
out  unless  you  take  out  the  whole 
bunch  of  fibres  contained  in  the  nip, 
which  is  a  needless  waste  of  good  cot- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


369 


ton  when  a  little  care  at  the  beginning 
would  have  saved  the  nip.  Nips  make 
bunches  in  tlie  yarn  and  show  up 
clearly  in  the  finished  cloth,  and 
while  it  is  impossible  to  make  yarn 
without  nips,  ix.  is  always  the  object 
of  all  good  carders  to  make  as  few  as 
possible. 

CARD  SETTINGS. 

The  settings  at  the  cards  should  be 
as  follows:  Flats  from  cylinder  10- 
lOOOths  to  12-lOOOths  inch;  doffer  to 
cylinder  7-lOOOths  inch;  licker-in 
from  cylinder  10-lOOOths;  feed  plate 
to  licker-in  12-lOOOths  to  2.)-]000ths 
inch,  according  to  what  style  of  nose 
you  are  using;  licker-in  knives  to 
licker-in  about  12-lOOOths  inch;  back 
and  front  knife  plates  12  to  17-1000th« 
inch,  from  cylinder  wire  at  the  lower 
edge,  although  the  setting  distance  of 
the  front  knife  plate  varies  because 
this  helps  to  regulate  the  amount  of 
flat-top  waste  taken  from  the  cotton 
on  the  cylinder;  cylinder  screen  from 
cylinder  wire  20-lOOOths  to  24-lOOOths 
inch  at  its  nearest  point  to  wire, 
which  is  the  center  or  directly  under 
neath  the  center  shaft  of  cylinder. 
The  outer  edges  of  the  screen  are 
generally  set  about  V^  of  an  inch 
away  from  the  wire.  The  sliver  should 
weigh  about  65  grains  to  the  yard  at 
the  front  of  the  card,  the  production 
being  about  800  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours. 
THREE  PROCESSES   OP  DRAWING. 

The  work  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  the  revolutions 
per  minute  of  front  roll  being  400,  the 
production  per  week  1,650  pounds  per 
delivery,  the  sliver  weighing  about  70 
grains  per  yarn.  The  settings  for  fin- 
isher drawing  frame  are  as  follows: 
front  roll  to  second,  11  inches;  second 
roll  to  third  roll,  li/^  inches;  third  roll 
to  back  roll,  1§  inches.  The  slubber 
hank  should  be  about  .40  hank;  first 
intermediate  1.50  hank;  second  inter- 
mediate five  hank.  The  spinning  frame 
makes  the  required  l-20s  yarns  from 
five  hank  roving.  Some  overseers  use 
one  less  process  of  drawing  and  add 
one  process  of  fly  frames,  in  which 
case  the  hank  roving  at  the  different 
processes  of  fly  frames  would  be  as 
follows:    slubber  .40;    first  intermedi- 


ate   1.10;     second    intermediate    2.70; 
fine  frame,  five  hank. 

To  make  the  yarn  2-20s,  it  is 
doubled  at  the  twister,  two  ends  of 
20s  yarn  being  fed  and  being  twisted 
into  one  thread  of  yarn  at  the  front, 
but  being  called  2-20s  yarn. 


Bleaching    and    Finishing. 

If  bleached  in  the  ordinary  way,  run- 
ning through  machine  rollers  in  a 
bleaching  works,  the  pieces  will  be 
drawn  and  sometimes  damaged.  Each 
piece  is  laid  separately  in  a  kier  until 
the  full  amount  of  cloth  has  been 
placed  therein,  a  solution  of  caustic 
potash  at  5  degrees  Tw.  is  run  in,  and 
boiled  for  10  hours.  Wash  well  and 
boil  again  with  a  4  degrees  Tw.  of 
caustic  potash.  Wash  well,  and  give 
a  solution  of  sulphuric  acid  14  degree 
Tw.  Wash  well,  and  chemic  with  V^ 
degree  Tw.  chloride  liaie,  for  about 
luur  hovirs.  Give  an  acid  bath  of  i/^ 
degree  Tw.  sulphuric  acid.  Wash  well 
until  all  trace  of  acid  has  been  elim- 
inated. 

The  goods  should  be  dried  on  a  ten- 
ter frame.  A  light  starching  to  give 
more  weight  can  be  given  of  4-6  oz. 
cornstarch  per  gallon,  starch  to  be 
boiled  for  one  hour.  Run  through  a 
rubber  rolled  mangle  and  dry  on  a 
tenter  frame.  If  a  half  bleach  is  re- 
quired, a  boil  of  caustic  potash  and  an 
acid  bath  are  all  that  are  required. 

CRINKLE  OR  SEERSUCKER 

This  weave  can  be  produced  on  less 
harnesses,  but  this  number  allow 
more  freedom  for  heddles. 

Crinkle  or  seersucker  is  a  wash  fab- 
ric composed  of  cotton,  cotton  and 
silk  or  all  silk,  and  can  be  easily  wo- 
ven in  any  power  loom  adapted  to 
light  and  medium  weight  cotton 
goods,  such  as  the  old  style  roller 
loom,  or  the  more  modern  dobby  or 
jacquard.    To   make   this  fabric 

TWO  BEAMS  ARE   NECESSARY 

as  the  crinkle  or  shrunken  stripe  is  its 
peculiarity,  hence  the  name.  The  part 
of  the  warp  (which  forms  the  crinkle 
in  the  cloth)  is  dressed  on  a  separate 


370 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


beam  and  has  only  sufficient  weight 
placed  upon  it  to  allow  it  (crinkle 
warp)  to  form  a  shed  properly  during 
weaving. 

The  ground  or  body  of  the  cloth 
may  be  dressed  upon  one  or  more 
beams  according  to  the  difference  in 


DcnacjCicDaaannooaciQonaoenaaBaBDB 
oaonDQDaoaaaazaoaaacBascimaBDua 

DoaoziamDDamGCDmuaaiiGa'jODoanaDa 
omaJDmaaamcacmoaamaaDjaaoaDCjaa 
mc2aamaacacDam\JooaDnaazDZiDDna!ja 

Draiting.in  Dni:t. 


anBaaoaaGaaacaaaGnasaciaHaDaacx; 
mmDQmmaaamaammaDmaaamaszGaacaBa 

Reel  Plan. 

amnwamzim 
■canaGaa 
DBzaoca 
■nacaDHa 
Dauacaoa 
acacacaa 
caaaGaaa 
aGacBCan 

Plain  Wea^e  tor  vjrinil*- 


take-up,  created  by  using  combina- 
tion weaves  to  form  fancy  corded  or 
ribbed  stripes  in  the  body  of  the  cloth. 
In  a  good  many  crinkle  or  seer- 
sucker fabrics  plain  weave  is  used 
entirely,  with  the  cloth  construction 
exactly  the  same  in  all  portions  of 
material,  except  wherein  the  extra 
take-up  of  the  yarn  creates  the  crin- 
kle effect.  To-day,  it  is  not  a  general 
practice  to  make  the  crinkle  stripe 
identical  in  construction  with  the 
ground  of  the  fabric.  This  is  due  to 
several  causes:  First,  the  use  of  a 
greater  amount  of  yarn  where  the 
crinkle  is  made  develops  a  much 
better  crinkle  and  in  addition  causes 
somewhat  better  weaving.  Second,  it 
makes  it  possible  for  a  greater  amount 
of  variety  in  cloth  pattern  to  be  used. 
A  good  many  would  consider  the 
weave  used  on  these  crinkle  stripes 
to  be  plain,  and,  generally  speaking, 
this  is  a  correct  designation,  but  there 
is  a  difference  noted  from  the  ordi- 
nary plain  weave  in  that  instead  of 
having  a  single  thread  in  each  heddle 
eye  there  are  two  threads  drawn  as 
one.  Naturally,  a  cloth  of  this  char- 
acter can  be  made  just  as  easy  as  an 
ordinary  plain  fabric,  so  far  as  the 
weaving  operation  is  concerned.  When 
the  yam  is  drawn  in  two  threads  per 
heddle,  the  crinkle  portion  of  the 
warp   Is  reeded   four  instead   of  two 


ends  per  dent,  which  is  noted  in  the 
body  of  the  fabric. 

If  we  desired  to  make  a  cloth  hav- 
ing a  plain  stripe  for  20  threads  and  a 
crinkle  stripe  for  10  threads,  draw  the 
plain  or  ground  threads  on  four  har- 
nesses, straight  draft,  1,  2,  3,  4  and 
the  crinkle  threads  on  two  harnesses 
1,  2  and  reed  the  whole  warp  two 
ends  per  dent  straight  across  from 
selvage  to  selvage. 

The  crinkle  effect  is  produced  by 
allowing  this  part  of  the  warp  to 
weave  in  slack,  while  the  ground  warp 
has  the  regular  weight  or  tension 
placed  upon  it.  In  this  way  the  slack 
warp  very  naturally  forms  a  puckered 
or  shrunken  stripe  in  the  fabric. 

This  fabric  has  been  in  large  de- 
mand at  various  times,  and  is  used 
extensively  for  ladies'  wear  in  the  line 
of  summer  outing  dresses,  petticoats, 
etc.,  and  while  the  sale  of  such  fabrics 
has  been  affected  by  fashion  in  the 
past  and  will  be  affected  by  fashion 
in  the  future,  nevertheless,  there  are 
a  large  number  of  such  styles  which 
are  sold  just  as  regularly  as  ginghams 
or  sheetings,  although  in  somewhat 
smaller  quantities.  The  reason  why 
crinkle  fabrics  are  sold  regularly  is 
because  there  are  certain  purposes  for 
which  they  seem  more  desirable  than 
about  any  other  fabric,  and  inasmuch 
as  the  demand  for  articles  composed 
of  crinkle  cloth  is  quite  steady,  it  is 
certain  that  the  production  and  sale 
will  also  be  quite  steady.  Advertising 
has  had  quite  a  little  influence  in 
teaching  consumers  the  cloth  value 
of  some  of  these  fabrics,  and  is  hav- 
ing an  influence  in  the  regular  dis- 
tribution. 

A  very  good  grade  of  crinkle  cloth 
can  be  produced  from  the  following: 

STRIPE  EFFECT    (WARP   PAT.) 

Reed,  1150 — 30  inches  width  in 
reed;  l-30s  cotton  warp  and  filling. 
(Regular  yarns),  56  picks  filling. 

Of  course,  each  manufacturer  usual- 
ly follows  his  own  ideas  of  economy 
in  constructing  a  fabric,  consistent 
with  the  conditions  and  suggestions 
submitted  to  him  by  the  trade  through 
his  selling  agents  concerning  the  na- 
ture and  style  of  a  sample  fabric  to  be 
produced. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


371 


Following  is  the  finish  fon 
goods  constructed  as  per  stripe  ef- 
fect: Goods  are  run  through  the 
washer,  then  through  the  cylinders  or 
dryer,  and  from  dryer  to  tentering 
machine.  This  operation  stretches  the 
goods  to  the  original  loom  width  if  de- 
sired, also  acting  as  an  auxiliary  dry- 
er, after  which  they  are  run  through 
the  calender,  which  machine  gives  the 
cloth  the  appearance  of  having  been 
newly  ironed. 

Carding    and    Spinning     Particulars. 

The  mills  making  the  style  of  cloth 
described  above  belong  to  the  second 
division  of  mills  given   in   a  previous 


waste.  As  in  previous  mixings,  make 
them  as  large  as  possible,  and  when 
possible  put  them  through  a  bale 
breaker,  and  it  would  be  a  good  idea 
to  let  the  cotton  stand  as  long  as  pos- 
sible before  using  it  (after  mixing,  of 
course).  This  allows  it  to  expand  and 
dry  out  and  it  is  then  in  a  better  form 
for  use.  Different  mills  use  different 
processes  for  the  purpose  of  dyeing 
the  cotton  out  and  making  the  cotton 
mixing 

AS   FLUFFY  AS   POSSIBLE. 
It  is  the  general  custom  in  up-to-date 
mills  to  use   a   blower   in   connection 
with  the  bale  breaker.    The  cotton  is 
fed    into   the   bale   breaker   and   junks 


Crinkle    or   Sesrsucker. 


paper,  i.  e.,  those  using  low  and  medi- 
um staple  and  grade  of  cotton.  These 
mills,  of  course,  use  the  average  set- 
tings on  all  machines  with  proper  re- 
lation to  the  length  of  staple,  etc.  Of 
course,  crinkle  or  seersucker  is  made 
of  different  counts  of  yarn  in  different 
mills,  but  these  do  not  vary  enough  so 
that  any  change  is  made,  except  in  the 
spinning  room,  which  will  be  men- 
tioned later.  The  seersucker  under 
description  will  be  considered  to  be 
made  of  l-30s  cotton  yarn.  The  raw 
stock  used  for  this  yarn  should  be 
about   1-inch   staple. 

IN  THE  MIXINGS 
use  other  good  waste,  such  as  describ- 
ed in  the  last  paper,  also  cut  roving 


are  torn  apart  by  the  spikes  on  the 
rolls  of  the  bale  breaker  and  then  the 
cotton  is  delivered  on  to  an  endless 
apron,  which  carries  it  over  a  chute 
into  which  the  cotton  drops.  This 
chute  allows  the  cotton  to  slide  into  a 
fan  or  blower,  which  revolves  at  a 
high  rate  of  speed  and  the  draft  car- 
ries the  cotton  through,  trunking  eith- 
er directly  to  the  bin  in  which  it  be- 
longs or  drops  it  on  to  an  endless  lat- 
tice, which  may  be  shifted  to  allow 
the  cotton  to  drop  into  the  bin  where 
it  belongs.  It  must  be  understood  that 
cotton  or  raw  stock  is 

COMPRESSED    VERY    TIGHTLY 
into  bales,   and   if  some   means   were 
not  taken  to  help  the  cotton  regain  its 


372 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


natural  fluffy  state  the  macliines  would 
have  to  do  a  great  deal  of  heavy  work 
for  which  they  are  not  wholly  built. 
Thus  the  bale  breaker  tends  to  sep- 
arate the  matted  masses  as  tbey  are 
taken  from  the  bale  and  the  air  from 
the  blower  helps  to  air,  dry  and  re- 
store the  cotton  to  a  fluffy  state, 
which  is  so  desirable  to  obtain  among 
carders.  The  cotton  is  allowed  to 
stand  as  long  as  possible  so  that  it 
will  expand  and  dry  out  as  much  as 
possible  before  using,  as  the  cotton  in 
the  bale  collects  more  or  less  mois- 
ture from  being  in  the  cotton  store- 
houses in  general  use. 

The  cotton  used  for  30s  yarn  is  gen- 
erally passed  through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OP  PICKING, 
if  a  blower  is  used.  A  good  weight  per 
yard  of  lap  is  16  ounces  and  total 
weight  of  lap  is  40  pounds  at  the 
breaker  and  14%  ounces  per  yard  and 
39  pounds  per  lap  at  the  finisher.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  the  same  as  has 
been  given  for  mills  of  the  second 
division.  At  the  card  the  draft  should 
be  about  100  to  110,  which  will  give 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  about  65 
grains.  The  doffer  should  be  speed- 
ed so  as  to  give  about  800  pounds  pro- 
duction. The  sliver  is  then  generally 
run  through  three  processes  of  draw- 
ing frames,  a  good  draft  of  which  is  as 
follows:  breaker,  5  plus;  intermediate 
4 — ;  finisher,  6;  which  will  give  the 
following  weight  of  sliver  per  yard, 
at  the  breaker  74  grains;  intermedi- 
ate, 79  grains,  and  finisher,  75  grains. 
Be  careful  of  the  settings  of  the  rolls 
at  the  drawing.  The  hank  roving  at 
the  slubber  should  be  .45;  at  the  first 
intermediate  fly  frame  1.40;  at  the 
second  intermediate,  or,  as  it  is  some- 
times called,  the  roving  frame,  3.5 
hank  and  jack  or  fine  frames,  7  to 
7.5  hank.  The  roving  is  then  carried 
to  the  spinning  room  where  it  Is  spun 
into  30s  yarn.  If  yarn  of  a  little  high- 
er or  lower  count  is  desired  the  draft 
gear  is  generally  changed  at  •  this 
frame  to  give  the  required  count. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

LIGHT   BLUE. 
For     100     pounds     yarn,     li/^     per 
qent  immedial  indone  B  pat.;   ly^  per 


cent  immedial  sky  blue  cone;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  10  per  cent 
crystalline  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour; 
wash  well  with  water. 

DARK  BLUE. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  8  per  cent  im- 
medial indone  blue  pat;  10  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  15  per  cent  crystal- 
line Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash 
well  with  water. 

BLACK. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  20  per  cent 
immedial  indone  blue  pat;  10  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  15  per  cent  crystal- 
line Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash 
well  with  water;  second  bath,  one- 
half  above  proportions. 

OLIVE    GREEN. 

12  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  N;  6  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  wel" 
with  water. 

BROWN. 

12  per  cent  pyrogene  brown  G;  8 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well 
with   water. 

FINISHING  PROCESS. 

Starch  with  six  ounces  cornstarch; 
six  ounces  cocoanut  oil  white  soften- 
ing; one  gallon  water;  boil  starch  for 
45  minutes;  rinse  through  starch 
mangle;   dry  on  tenter  frame. 


COTTONADE 

Cottonade  is  a  heavy,  coarse,  single 
cloth,  made  of  single  yarn,  generally 
l-20s  cotton  warp  and  16-cut  wool 
spun,  weaving  woolen  principle,  all- 
cotton  shoddy  filling.  It  is  used  as  a 
trousering,  an  important  feature  of 
which  is  the  low  selling  price  of  the 
finished   garment. 

It  is  best  adapted  to  the  old-style 
roller  or  cam  loom,  and  is  made  and 
woven  on  four  harnesses,  generally 
the  ^—5  twill,  either  right  or  left 
hand,  or  herring-bone  weave  effect 
(twill  running  at  angle  of  45  degrees). 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


373 


It  is  a  narrow  fabric,  being  set  in  the 
reed  30  inches,  and  receiving  very  lit- 
tle finish,  and  is  sold  at  27  inches  in 
width. 

THE  PATTERNS 

are  usually  on  the  dark  side  with  a 
small  percentage  of  bright  color  add- 
ed to  improve  the  tone:  Black,  dark 
slate  and  dark  drab  for  ground  colors, 
and  an  occasional  red,  pearl,  light 
brown  or  an  equivalent  color  to 
brighten  the  whole  pattern. 

In  making  a  cottonade  the  object  is 
to  produce  a  cheap  single-cloth  trou- 
sering composed  of  a  rather  coarse 
but  fairly  strong  single  warp  thread 
and    a   thick   or    lofty     single     filling 

BDaBBCGiaaaa  222R22-R 

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Design 


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DDBoaDaaaDca 

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nganDDBa 

BBDOOBDa 


45« 


45"  twin  — 

2  2 

Herring-bone  effect.  Right-hand  twlU. 

thread,  which  combination  in  certain 
proportions  gives  the  fabric  a  weighty 
appearan-  '  , 

THE  FILLING 

is  usually  an  all-cotton  shoddy  filling, 
made  from  old  dark  colored  cotton 
rags.  By  willowing  and  picking,  the 
yarn  is  brought  to  the  carded  state. 
The  fibres  in  an  all-cotton  shoddy  are 
short,  due  to  the  process  of  reduction, 
as  stated  above. 

From  the  pickers  the  shoddy  is  run 
through  the  first  and  second  break- 
ers and  then  through  the  condenser 
or  finisher  card.  The  spool  drum  con- 
taining the  roving  is  then  taken  from 
the  condenser  card  and  placed  upon 
the  mule  to  be  spun  upon  tubes, 
ready  for  the  w^eaver. 

The  fibres  being  short,  the  shoddy 
will  lose  from  15  to  20  per  cent  of  its 


weight  during  the  carding  and  spin- 
ning, also  from  the  3  to  5  per  cent  of 
waste  made  by  the  weaver. 

To  find  stock  at  picker: 

Cottonade,  30  inches  in  reed;  32 
picks;  16-cut  cotton  (W'Oolen  princi- 
ple) shoddy;  32  times  30  equals  960 
jards  divided  by  30O  equals  3.2  ounces 
filling,  plus  5  per  cent  loss  equals  3.- 
18  ounces;  16-cut  times  300  equals 
4,800  divided  by  16  ounces  equals  300 
yards  per  ounce;  3.18  ounces  at  loom 
plus  20  per  cent  loss  in  carding,  spin- 
ning equals  3.82  ounces  at  picker  per 
yard  of  cloth. 

Cottonade,  reed  800-2  ends  per  split, 
3l)  inches  wide,  32  picks,  16-cut  cotton 
(woolen  principle)  shoddy,  l-20s  cot- 
ton  warp. 

Finish  about  27  inches.  To  finish 
run  through  dry  hot  press. 

Weigh  41,4   ounces  about. 

Warp    pattern: 

10  Black. 

2  Dark   slate. 

1  Red. 

1  Black. 

2  Dark    drab. 
1  Black. 

1  Red. 

2  Dark    slate. 


45  degree  right 


Design — regular 
hand  twill. 

THE  WEAVING. 

To  weave  in  roller  loom,  this  warp 
is  drawn  in  1,  2,  3,  4,  on  four  harness- 
es, these  harnesses  being  suspend- 
ed in  the  loom  from  the  rollers  by 
means  of  straps  attached  to  hooks  on 
the  top  of  the  harness  or  heddle 
shafts.  The  harnesses  are  then  fas- 
tened to  the  loon  treadles  by  means 
of  jackstraps  running  from  the  bot- 
tom of  the  harness  to  said  treadles, 
the  treadles  being  operated  by  a  se- 
ries of  ca'Ts,  consistent  with  weave 
effect  desired. 

These  cans  are  so  arranged  on  the 
cam  shaft  that  in  revolving  they 
strike  the  treadles,  and  this  action, 
pulling  the  harness  up  and  down, 
or  ens  the  shed.  (Note — in  a  roller 
loom  two  or  more  harnesses  are  al- 
ways attached  to  cne  top  roller,  and 
of  necessity  whatever  pulls  one  down 
must  pull  the  mate  harness  up,  the 
cams  always  being  arranged  to  permit 
this.) 


374 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


In  applying  this  weave  the  first  and 
third  harnesses  are  strapped  to  the 
first  top  roller  and  the  second  and 
fourth  strapped  to  second  top  roller. 
This  being  the  case,  the  action  of  the 
cams  in  opening  the  shed  causes  the 
raisers  and  sinkers  on  each  succes- 
sive warp  thread  in  the  repeat  of  the 
weave  to  start  one  pick  later  than  that 
of  the  thread  preceding  it,  thereby 
forming  a  twill  line. 

A  warp  to  be  woven  ? — -  twill, 
drawn  on  four  harnesses  1,  2,  3,  4,  and 
strapped  up  in  this  manner,  and  hav- 
ing the  cams  set  properly  should  shed 
thus:  First  pick,  first  and  fourth  up; 
second  and  third  down.  Second  pick, 
first  and  second  up;  third  and  fourth 
down.  Third  pick,  second  and  third 
up;  first  and  fourth  down.  Fourth 
pick,  third  and  fourth  up;  first  and 
second  down. 

The  herring-bone  weave  effect  is 
produced  by  drawing  in  the  warp  from 
front  to  back  and  back  to  front  in  the 
harness  and  using  the  same  set  of 
cams,  set  in  the  same  manner  and  po- 
sition, and  the  same  harness  strapping 
as  in  making  a  straight  right  hand 
twill. 

Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

For  this  class  of  goods  the  cotton 
yarn  is  generally  made  and  spun  in 
the  same  way  as  wool  and  worsted 
yarns,  and  is  generally  made  in  mills 
and  on  the  machinery  generally  used 
for  making  worsted  or  woolen  yarna. 
It  will  be  understood  that  the  meth- 
ods of  making  yam  in  a  cotton  mill 
and  a  woolen  mill  are  entirely  differ- 
ent, both  as  to  the  number  of  proc- 
esses and  th'e  kind  of  machinery 
used.  In  fact,  the  fundamental  prin- 
ciples for  spinning  yarn  are  entirely 
different  in  each  mill,  and  as  we  are 
describing  cotton  fabrics  in  these  ar- 
ticles we  will  proceed  just  as  If  the 
yam  used  for  this  class  of  goods  was 
made  in  a  cotton  mill  and  sold  to  a 
woolen  mill,  which  is  sometimes  done. 

THE   RAW   STOCK. 
The  raw  stock  used  for  this  class  of 
fabric   would  be   of  a  low  grade  and 
generally  mixed  with  comber  or  even 
card  waste;   the  percentage  of  waste 


used  would  depend  a  great  deal  on  the 
count  of  yarn  to  be  made.  In  the  fab- 
ric under  description  the  count  of  the 
cotton  yarn  is  l-20s.  The  raw  cotton 
would  be  opened  up  and  run  through 
a  bale  breaker,  or  it  may  be  opened 
at  the  bin  and  not  run  through  the 
bale  breaker,  which  will  save  the  ex- 
pense of  one  process,  but  the  cotton 
will  not  be  opened  up  as  well,  a 
more  even  yarn  being  made  when 
bale  breaker  is  used.  As  the  cotton  is 
opened  at  the  bin  it  is  mixed  with  the 
carded  or  combed  waste  in  the  pro- 
portion required,  the  cotton  layers 
being  taken  from  the  bale  and  pulled 
apart  as  much  as  possible  so  as  to  let 
the  air  get  at  them  and  also  so  as  to 
lighten  the  work  of  the  opener.  The 
cotton  is  taken  and  put  into  the  open- 
er which  is  generally  attached  to  the 
breaker  picker,  either  directly  or  in- 
directly by  having  the  cotton  carried 
through  trunking  (through  which  it  is 
blown  by  a  draft  of  air  from  a  fau 
on  the  opener)  which  connects  with 
the  back  part  of  the  breaker  picker. 
The  opener  machine  may  be  on  the 
same  fioor  or  may  be  situated  on  the 
floor  above  or  below  the  breaker  pick- 
er; but  in  mills,  as  they  are  now  con- 
structed, the  opener  is  on  the  same 
floor  and  is  considered  as  a  part  of 
the   breaker   picker. 

PARTICULARS  TO  BE  OBTAINED. 
For  this  count  of  yarn  the  speed 
of  the  beater  should  be  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  hopper 
on  the  opener  should  always  be  kept 
more  than  half  full  of  cotton  and  it 
should  be  as  large  as  possible,  the 
reason  for  this  being  that  a  more  even 
amount  of  cotton  will  always  be  pre- 
sented to  the  pin  beater  by  the  lift- 
ing apron  than  when  the  hopper  is 
less  than  half  full.  This  is  important, 
not  only  in  reference  to  "cottonade 
fabrics,"  but  also  all  classes  of  goods, 
because  if  it  is  less  than  half  full 
it  is  apt  to  cause  uneven  yarn.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  on  the  breaker 
and  finisher  pickers  should  be  about 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute,  which 
gives  the  beats  per  inch  about  42. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  breaker 
picker  should  not  be  less  than  40 
pounds  and  at  the  finisher  less  than 


A  COTTOK  F*ABtllCS  GLOSSARY 


&lt 


39  pounds.  A  39-pound  lap  gives  a 
weight  of  lap  per  yard  of  14 1^  ounces. 
The  card  is  set  so  as  not  to  take  out 
too  much  waste,  and  wider  settings  are 
used  than  those  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  draft  used  should  be  100, 
the  sliver  at  the  front  weighing  65 
grains.  Production  at  the  card  should 
be  at  least  900  pounds.  The  sliver  is 
then  run  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  weight  of  sliver  at  the 
finisher  being  about  72  grains  per 
yard.  The  production  per  delivery  of 
the  finisher  drawing  frame  should  be 
at  least  1,600  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours  and  the  percentage  of  lost 
time  at  this  machine  not  more  than 
15  per  cent.  The  slubber  is  the  next 
process  and  the  hank  roving  made  at 
this  machine  should  be  about  .40. 
Three-process  fly  frames  are  used  and 
the  hank  roving  at  the  different  proc- 
esses should  be  as  follows:  1st  inter- 
mediate 1.10  hank;  2d  intermediate 
2.75  hank;  five -frame  from  4.50  to  5.00 
hank.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
rolls  are  not  spread  too  far  apart  on 
these  machines  and  a  good  setting 
for  rolls  of  this  stock  for  slubbers 
and  fly  frames  is  as  follows:  Front 
roll  to  middle  spread  to  1%  inches; 
middle  roll  to  back  roll  2  inches.  The 
yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  where  it  is  spun  into  20s  yarn,  a 
soft  twist  being  used. 


Dyeing  Particulars  for  Raw  Stock. 
BLACK. 

For  100  pounds:  18  per  cent  pyro- 
gene  black  B.  D.;  12  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  8  per  cent  soda  ash;  70  per 
cent  salt.  Enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour, 
and  wash  well  in  water. 
PEARL. 

One  per  cent  pyrogene  gray  B;  2 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  5  per  cent  salt.  Enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Five  per  cent  pyrogene  brown  G.; 
5  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;    5  per  cent  salt.    Enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour,  wash  well. 
RED. 

Five  per  cent  rosanthrene  red  A.; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 


soda.  Enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour, 
rinse,  diazotize  for  one-quarter  hour 
with  nitrite  soda  and  muriatic  acid, 
rinse. 

Develop  with  beta  naphthol  and 
caustic  soda  for  one-quarter  hour. 
This  red  is  brighter  and  faster  than 
primuline  red. 

DIAZOTIZING  BATH. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  nitric 
soda,  5  per  cent  muriatic  acid,  20  de- 
grees Be. 

DEVELOPING  BATH. 

One  and    three-quarters    per    cent 
beta  naphthol;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
DARK  SLATE. 

Two  and  one-half  per  cent  imme- 
dial  direct  blue,  B  pat.;  |  per  cent 
immedial  olive,  B  pat.;  5  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Enter  at  boil, 
boil  one  hour. 

DARK  DRAB. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  immedial 
brown,  pat.;  %  per  cent  immedial 
olive,  B  pat.;  %  per  cent  immedial 
black,  N.  B.  pat.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  5  per  cent 
sulphide  soda.  Enter  at  boil,  boil  one 
hour. 

4 «» 

COTTON   WORSTED  — MEN'S 
WEAR 

Cotton  worsted  men's  wear  is  a  fab- 
ric composed  of  either  2-20s  or  2-30s 
cotton  warp  and  filling,  and  receives 
either  a  dry  or  wet  finish.  The  weave, 
color  arrangement  and  general  con- 
struction are  an  exact  duplicate  of  the 
finest  worsted  goods  of  the  present 
time. 

This  fabric  is  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  men's  suitings  and  trouserings, 
retailing  at  $7  to  $12  per  suit,  for  the 
middle  class  trade,  and  in  effect  has 
the  neat,  dressy  appearance  of  an  im- 
ported cloth  of  high  grade. 

It  Is  made  in  a  light-weight  grade 
at  6  to  61^  ounces  for  spring  and  fall, 
and  heavy  weight  at  8  to  8^  ounces 
for  winter  wear,  both  grades  being 
produced  in  stripe,  check  and  Indis- 
tinct plaid  pattemi. 


376 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


Cotton  worsted  men's  wear  is  usu- 
ally woven  on  any  loom,  having  either 

nouaaaan   _• 
aoaaacsaa   s 

DDCDDDDD  "S 

DDDDDDDa  " 

OiiDaDDDP  g 

SQDCOasD  a 

■aooBioa  S 

QBBDaBBD  ■" 

aaBBaaaB  » 

Saammaou   > 
maammma  ^ 


OFBDnnDQcr 

■■DDHBoa 

DDaataDaa 
■uDHaaaB 

nnDDDQDffl 

QGaBaaBB 
.Doauaajna 
■■DaaHDO 
DfflDDaaan 
□■■aDaaa 

DDDDDDfta 

oaaPQi-iBB 
BBQUBBaa 

BBaaBBDQ 

aaBaaoBB 

gaDDGOfflQ 
DBBaDBB 

BBaaBBaa 

BBDQBBDa 

oaoaDoaa 
aaBBagBB 
DGDaoOffla 

OBBaClBBD 

SnnfflDGDn 
DDBBOaB 
aoDGnaaa  ^ 

gBGGBSQS  p. 
aaBBGGBB  h 

Daaagaig  £ 

aaBBDGBB  I 
■BGOBBag  ^„ 
■BOGBBaa  V 

BgbbDgbb  ^ 
DDaOGGffla  *? 

OBBGaBBa  ■g, 
■  ■GGBBGD  1-^ 
gOBBGOBB  a 

iggbbQdi  -s 


□naaaeaoQ 

DBBOaBBa 

OQinoana 

ODBBGGBB 

DannDQDffl 

SDGBBDOB 
□anfflaaa 

BBGDBBaG 

□ianDGDD 

OBBDOBBG 
DDDDDDffla 
□GBBDOBB 
DDaSDODG 

BGDBBaaa 

BBiSaaaaD 
GDaaati'Oa 

OBBOGBBG 

OGffiDGaan 

OQBBGGBB 
DQDGQDDffl 
BDDBBGDB 

■Baofliag 

□BBDOBBG 
DDDDaGEQ 
aOBBDaBB 


DDGanQBannGGDnna 
□aaaaoGuGGDuDBGa 
DQGauBUGuaoGGGag 

aGDaGDDGuGCiuBaQQ 
DDGGBaGUGLjCJDnaGP 
DQnaaUGGGGaBDDGQ 
aDDGGBGaUCi-jGaDUG 

DaDaaoauGDQatJBGa 
DnaaogBaGGDDGODa 

GGDGGLJGDGanDaDBa 
UDDDGQDBGQOpGGaQ 
DQGGGnaaGaugGDDB 

GBaGaaQGDGGgaGDg 
DaaDGSQGGBCiaGGaa 

DBaODnGCDaODGGGG 

QGanQyGGuaDaGDGg 

DGGQGgUBGDQCJGGag 
GGaDGOnnDoQ^GGGg 
GODGGDGHQnLJaGDQD 

oaaGpaGGGGLiaGaGg 
GBGaCpGaGaQQaGGg 

DGGGODGDaaygGGGg 

DBaaaGGQDnGGaGag 
naaDDpGnDsuCaGGg 
iGaaGGQannuDDDGg 

DGQaGODGDnDBnGGg 

cnGGGaaaaaapDGQg 
■dGaDgGuGGDpagag 
□GaGggqaBGDpQaag 
DaaGqaGQGGDDaQaP 

DDQGGQGOQBaBDGag 
GGGaaGDBGGaPDGnS 
nDGGGaGDGnGpGGD"  . 

naaagugBaBGQDGna  £ 

DaDaGaDDQaGGnQag  *: 
DaaDGGGganGgGBDg  Q 
DaGDaaaaDnagGaag  q 

OnaDDGGGaDGLinBGg  •? 
■GGaGGGGGCGgnGGa  so 

npaGGDDoaaaQDuaa  a 
atiGDGGGaanaaaaag  v 
aGDOGaaGDocp.DGag  g 
HaaoQGaggGagaQaG  g 
DGGDaaaagGGDnaag  q 


^-^JGQ 

_^^ „ ^gUoGaQ 

DBangaoGGnQgaaag 
DaoGDGGgaSGDQpag 
DaBDaGGGGaagoDaa 


laDnagnDDg 

.^iGCQnDBDDa 

inaDDpDGGGa 


Gaaaaaoo □oagoGaa 
DaDDGDDBgoopDgDn 
DaGaDGGDgnapDgoi 
BaaDgaagDQQgagaa 
GDaaOGaaBBggGgDg 
qaDDDDnGGaagQana 
aaDDaGaDGBaGGGDa 

^SBSBBBBSBBSBBpa 


QaBBGDaQDaaaoSpa 
DOGBaDGQaDDapDan 
DpapQpaBanppnnGP 
DDPaDDaaDaaaaoDB 


4x1  or  4x4  filling  boxes,  and  having  a 
head  motion  attached  of  from  16  to  25 


harness  capacity.  Most  all  W6av6  ef- 
fects and  combinations  of  weaves 
known  in  the  worsted  men's  wear 
trade  can  be  applied  to  this  fabric. 
Care  should  be  taken,  however,  in  con- 
struction of  weave,  as  the  weave,  when 
used  in  a  worsted  to  produce  a  tightly 
bound  rib  effect,  may  appear  more 
open  in  cotton  worsted  men's  wear,  as 
the  worsted  fabric  shrinks  when 
scoured  in  finish  and  the  cotton  fabric 
is  finished  dry  and  is  practically  the' 
same  as  when  taken  from  loom,  of 
course,  allowing  for  percentage  of 
contraction  between  reed  and  cloth 
roll.  Cotton  worsted  men's  wear  is 
usually  made  one  face  end  and  one' 
back  end,  and  reeded  four  ends  per 
dent. 

THE  FACE  WEAVE, 

when  a  twill  or  fancy  combination,  is; 
balanced  on  the  back  of  the  cloth  by 
using  an  eight  harness  satin  (warp 
effect  on  back)  five  as  counter.  The 
face  weave  should  always  be  properly 
balanced.  In  making  this  style  of 
goods,  or  a  warp  back  fabric,  the  ex- 
tra is  placed  there  for  the  purpose  of 
adding  weight  to  the  cloth,  and  if  of 
a  tighter  nature,  the  face  of  the  cloth 
will  present  a  puckered  or  uneven  ap- 
pearance. 

To  dry  finish  cotton  worsted  men's 
wear,  the  yarns  of  which  have  been 
dyed  from  dry  or  cheap  colors,  that 
will  not  stand  washing,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  inspected, 
measured  and  sheared.  Shearing  is  a 
process  which  means  running  the  cloth 
through  a  machine,  having  a  cutter 
composed  of  a  series  of  blades  set  in 
a  frame,  which  revolves  in  similar 
manner  to  that  of  a  grass  mower,  the 
cloth  being  kept  taut  by  being  passed 
over  and  under  several  rods  and  roll- 
ers, which  also  remove  wrinkles,  and 
allow  the  cloth  to  be  presented  evenly 
to  the  cutter.  The  purpose  of  shearing 
is  to  remove  all  foreign  substances 
from  the  face  of  the  cloth,  such  as 
knots,  lumps,  etc.,  and  the  effect  is  a 
smooth,  even  cloth  that  readily  takes 
on  the  appearance  of  a  high-class  wor- 
sted, after  being  run  through  the  hot 
press. 

The  steam  gauge  on  a  hot  press 
should  register  50  pounds  and  the  dial, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


377 


135  pounds  roller  pressure  when  the 
cloth  is  run  through  this  press.  The 
effect  of  the  pressure  of  the  steam- 
heated  rollers  upon  the  cloth  is  to  re- 
move all  wrinkles,  liven  up  the  colors, 
and  to  retain  the  width  of  cloth  as 
taken  from  the  cloth  roll  at  the  loom. 
After  being  pressed,  the  cuts  of  cloth 
are  rolled  or  lapped  into  bolts,  tha 
ends  of  which  are  then  stitched,  the 
tags  sewed  on  and  the  goods  are  ready 
to  case  and  ship. 

THE   COLORS 

used  in  cotton  worsted  men's  wear 
are  black,  brown,  light  and  dark 
shades  of  blue,  slate,  drab  and  steel, 
and  to  liven  up  a  pattern  use  an  oc- 


1  end  face  2-30  cotton  warp;  1  end 
back  2-20  cotton  warp,  't,  twill  face, 
8  harness  satin  back,  5  as  count :^r. 

1  pick  1-30S  worsted;  1  pick  1-2U 
cotton;  56  picks  per  inch. 

LIGHT-WEIGHT  MEN'S  WEAR. 

Reed,  900 — four  ends  per  dent,  614 
ounces;  ZlVz  inches  in  reed,  including 
selvage  32x2;  2-30s  cotton  warp,  one 
fac3  and  one  back 
black  cotton  filling, 
shear  and  hot  press, 
binations  for  face; 
ness  satin  for  back. 

HEAVY-WEIGHT  MEN'S  WEAR. 

Reed,  800 — four  ends  per  dent,  SVz 
ounces;  31i/^  inches  in  reed,  including 


52  picks  2-30s 
Dry  finish  equals 
Weave  twill  com- 
weave   eight-har- 


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aau^maoooomcmama 
mDmacaoom-Z'mDaaaa 
maaaQDmcmaaDaoms 

DcmDmaoDOom^maaa 

■  DDDDDBISBaaGuaBa 

Design— Piece  Dye 

DOBBDDBOaaDDDDSn 

DBBCcaaaGaDDDDDn 

■  ■aaBB-DDOODDBaDD 
BaCBBOGBOOaDGDDa 
DCBBGGBBaniPCaDDG 
□BBGCflBGGGQGGiSCG 

■BaGBBG'G-:<aaDnG3a 

■DGlBGCBGaG^DGGa 
Weave  Harness  Cham 


DDDDGaaaGaDDODGB 

DDDDaanDGoaoDBan 

DDGGaGCGaaCBGCGG 

DGDaaDGQaBCGcaDa 

DDDGaaGBGGGGQGGD 
DDDDDBQDaCCaDGGa 

DDQaDGGGaaaaGGaa 
DBDDDaGnaGcnGaQG 

■ DaDDDGGGGaGGGGBa 
□DDDaaGGQGGGBGGa 
□DDGCDGGGGBGaGGG 

DGDaaaaGBGaaGGgn 
DQDGQGBaaGGOGqgg 

DaGDBaaGDDGQGgDg 

DDBooGaaGGQaQgDg 
■DupocDDaQODGaaa 

';Dra<ring-in  Draft 


DDOCGDODBBBBBBBB 
^BBQDaCDGDa 

B«J  Plao 


aOaaBCBaGDDGBSBGQDnGBCBGDDGCBDBGGGDCBESBaaDnaBnBC 
DaBt!BI3IOanBDBGaGGaB^BODGGGBaaGB5BaGGnGBCBDaGnDBS 
■BBGGDDGB-SBGGQGGBQBQGDGCB-I-BGaCGCBGBaaGGGBBBDDnGa 
BGGGaCBaBaoUGGBSiBGGnGGBnBGnDBGnGGOBaBGGanGBDBaaG 
DaGQaaBGrjGGCBGBGGaG^-BSBGCnjGBSBGGaGaBGBGGGGCBSPBa 
QaBaBaaGGDBiBGGnCDBGB-GGGGB-iiGGBQBGGDaGBBBGaCCaBa 
BSBaGGaCHQBGaDD0B.:-BGLGGGaGBL:GGCnB>HBaGGGaBGBGGDOU 
BDaaDGaaiBGGCGGBGBGGGGaB^'HDGGBCGGDGBGBaCDDaBe.'BCGG 

DcBlgn— Light  Weight— Stripe. 

DncnDaGaanonaQnBGaGacGGGonGCO'GGDDCDBCGcnnaccancn 
DDaaaGGGGGQGQBGaacaGGGG-GGaQaaDacGGGacBGDGaaGcuaa 

DGGGGGaGGQGBiGGGGDGaGaGGGGaaBGGaDGaGaGGGBCGacaGaG 
-DGOGGGGaGBGaOGGGGGCnGGGGCBDaGDCGCGGGGGGGGBQCCGca 
DGGGaaaBGGGGaCiaaGaaaGGGBGGGGaOCDOnGGQQGCGGCBCGGa 

aaGOGaGGanaGGGGDanoaGBaGaGOGaBaDGCGGGGGccccDGaoG 

DGGBGGGaGGGGGGGGOaaBnnDGGGaoaGCaGGGGGGGGGGCGGGGB 
DBaGGGGGGaGGGaGaDBGnDnaGQaGGGCGGGBanQDCCGGGGGDDa 
DGaGGGGGGGGaGaBanDDaaDaaGaaGGGCGGaGQBGGGGGQGCGGD 

aaGQGCGGGGaGBaGDaaaaaaGDGGGQGaQaGaraacBGGOGcacnG 

DGGGGGGaOaBGGGGGGaO^aGjDDaGBaGaGOCGQGGGGCBGCGCCGa 
QGaGOGGaBGGGaCQOaaaaDgCOaGDOaDDQGGaGGGQGGCBGGGGg 
DGOacaBaaaGGDGGGaGGGGaiGGGGGaaaaCGGGaCGOGGCCBGGa 

QGaaBGGGGQGGGGQaaGCGBaaGGaQaanaaGocaaGGGGGGcaaBa 
DGBaGacDGGaGaGOGaGaaGGDGGGaGGGaaaaGGGGaGaaaaGGoa 
■DaDDaaaGaaDaDDaBDGaGGGGGacGGCQGcxiBQDDDaDDGanoca 

Drawing-in   Draft. 

GGDaBBBBnGGnBBaaGnoGaBBBGaDaaBBanDDGBBBBnnoGBBBa 
aaaaGGaaBaBBaaauaaBaDGGGaaaacGacaaaaGGaGaaaacDaa 

Reed  Plan. 

nGBaCGBBuGGQCCan 

DaBDGBBua-i'GuLaQa 
BaanaBGGGGGGeGca 
BacBBGDBQQaacaoffl 
GaaaGGBiGGBGDGaa 
DaaGGBBGaGGGcacn 

BBGOBBGG5GaaGGQa 
aGDaaGGBGaC^GuGLl 

Weave  Harness  Chain. 


casional  end  of  maroon,  green,  pearl 
or  sky  blue. 

This  line  is  also  made  in  a  piece-dye 
fabric,  constructed  from  2-20  and  2-30 
cotton  warps,  and  l-30s  worsted  and 
1-20  cotton  filling.  These  yarns  are 
woven  in  the  gray  and  the  cloth 
scoured  and  dyed  in  the  piece,  black 
or  blue.  When  finished,  this  fabric  re- 
sembles a  very  heavy  serge.  Finish,  28 
inches. 

Piece  dye — worsted  men's  wear; 
reed,  500 — eight  ends  per  dent;  33 
inches  in  reed,  including  selvage, 
32x2. 


selvage  32x2;  2-20  cotton  warp  one 
face,  one  back;  52  picks,  2-26s  black 
cotton  filling.  Dry  finish  equals  shear 
and  hot  press.  Weave,  can  use  same 
as  light  weights. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Cotton  worsted  fabrics,  like  cotton- 
ade  fabrics,  are  generally  made  and 
spun  in  the  same  manner  as  wool  and 
worsted  yarns  and  made  in  woolen 
mills.  There  are  a  few  exceptions, 
however,  where  they  are  made  in  cot- 
ton mills.   The  count  of  tbe  yarn  used 


378 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


in  cotton  worsted  fabrics  varies  from 
20s  to  36s,  and  is  generally  a  doubled 
yarn.  In  the  present  article  we  will 
proceed  as  if  the  count  of  the  finished 
yarn  was  to  be  2-30s. 

A  mill  making  this  class  of  goods 
would  belong  to  the  second  division  of 
mills  (as  classified  in  a  previous  arti- 
cle) i.  e.,  a  mill  equipped  with  machin- 
ery for  making  yarns  from  low  to  me- 
dium grades  of  cotton. 

THE    MIXINGS 

would  be  made  in  the  usual  manner, 
being  run  through  a  bale  breaker  into 
the  mixing  bin  and  at  this  point  mixed 
with  the  sliver  waste  returned  from 
the  cards,  drawing  frames  and  comb- 
ers (if  there  are  any  of  these  machines 
in  the  mill)  and  then  it  is  run  through 
an  opener  and  through  three  processes 
of  pickers.  At  the  finisher  picker  laps 
of  cut  roving  waste  are  mixed  with 
raw  stock  in  the  proportion  of  three 
laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of  cut- 
roving  waste.  In  using  cut-roving 
waste  and  also  sliver  waste  it  should 
always  be  of  the  same  length  of  staple. 
It  is 

THE    GENERAL   PLAN 
to  use  cut-roving  waste  as  fast  as  it  Is 
made  and  not  allow  it  to  collect  until 
a  large  quantity  is  on  hand. 

The  method  employed  in  most  mills 
is  to  collect  the  cut  roving  over  a  day 
(generally  right  after  the  noon  hour) 
and  take  it  to  the  picker  room  and  run 
it  through  the  roving  or  waste  picker. 
From  here  it  is  run  Into  a  breaker 
picker  and  formed  Into  laps  of  suitable 
w^eight.  These  are  then  mixed  with 
the  raw  stock  in  the  proportion  above 
stated,  as  long  as  the  cut-roving  laps 
hold  out  (which  should  be  as  snort  a 
time  as  possible  for  obvious  reasons). 
By  doing  this 

A  MORE  EVEN  YARN 
Is  obtained  than  when  the  cut  roving 
is  allowed  to  collect  for  a  week  at  a 
time  before  being  put  through  the 
waste  picker,  because  by  the  first  plan 
you  are  mixing  a  small  quantity  of  cut 
roving  a  good  part  of  the  time,  where- 
as by  the  latter  plan  cut  roving  Is  only 
mixed  with  the  raw  stock  once  a  week, 
while  during  the  other  five  days  noth- 
ing but  the  raw  stock  and  sliver  waste 


Is  being  mixed.  By  the  latter  plan  a 
more  uneven  yarn  Is  bound  to  be 
made.   The 

SPEED    OF   THE   BEATERS 

on  the  different  machines  should  not 
exceed  1,050  revolutions  per  minute  at 
the  opener,  1,500  revolutions  per  min- 
ute at  the  breaker  picker,  and  on  the 
fntermediate  and  finisher  pickers  the 
speed  should  be  slowed  down  so  as  not 
to  exceed  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  will  give  42  beats  to  every  Inch 
of  cotton  fed  to  the  finisher  picker, 
which  ought  to  be  enough  to  thorough- 
ly clean  it.  In  giving  the  above  speeds 
it  is  assumed  that  the  rigid  two-bladed 
type  of  beater  is  used.  Different  kinds 
of  beaters,  together  with  their  advan- 
tages and  disadvantages,  will  be  given 
later  when  higher  count  yarns  are  de- 
scribed.   The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  breaker  picker  should  be  about 
40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard;  at 
the  intermediate  about  37  pounds  or  12 
ounces  per  yard;  at  the  finisher  39 
pounds  or  14 14  ounces  per  yard.  The 
settings  at  the  card  should  be  the  same 
as  described  in  previous  article,  per 
weight  of  sliver  being  60  grains  per 
yard  and  the  production  850  pounds 
per  week  of  60  hours.  The  work  is  run 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
revolutions  per  minute  of  front  roll  at 
each  process  being  400  and  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  70 
grains  per  yard.  In  order  to  help  pro- 
duce a  perfect  yarn.  It  Is  always  a 
good  rule  never  to  draw  more  than  you 
double  at  the  drawing  frame.  For  ex- 
ample, if  you  are  feeding  six  ends  at 
the  drawing  your  draft  should  be  six 
or  under.    The 

PRODUCTION  OF  THE  SLIVER 
at  the  drawing  frame  should  be  about 
1,600  pounds  per  delivery  for  a  week  of 
60  hours.  The  next  machine  is  the 
slubber,  the  hank  roving  at  the  front 
being  about  .40. 

The  yarn  is  run  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames  and  the  hank  rov- 
ing made  at  each  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: First  Intermediate,  1.20;  second 
intermediate,  3.00;  fine  frame,  7.25  to 
7.50.  The  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the 
spinning  room    and    made    into    SOs 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


379 


yam;  from  here  it  is  taken  to  the 
twister  and  made  into  2-30s  by 
doubling  two  yarns  of  single  30s  yarns 
together. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

BLACK  FOR  YARN. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  N.  N,; 
12  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  5  per 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash 
well. 

DARK  BROWN. 

8  per  cent  immedial  dark  brown  A,; 
1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D.;  ^  per 
cent  immedial  black  N.  B.;  10  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  5  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well. 

DARK   BLUE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.  cone; 
3  per  cent  immedial  indone  R.  cone;  3 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B.;  8 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  5  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well. 

PEARL. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  ounces  im- 
medial black  N.  R.  T. ;  8  ounces  sodium 
sulphide;  one  pound  soda  ash;  5  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter  at  boil,  boil 
one  hour. 

DRAB. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  ounces  im- 
medial black  N.  B.;  12  ounces  imme- 
dial cutch  G.;  one  pound  sodium  sul- 
phide; 5  pounds  Glauber's  salt;  enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour. 

SLATE. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  pounds  Im- 
medial direct  blue  B.;  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  immedial  olive  B.;  5  pounds 
sodium  sulphide;  10  pounds  Glauber's 
salt;  2  pounds  soda  ash;  enter  at  boil, 
boil  one  hour. 

STEEL. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  12  ounces  im- 
medial black  N.  B.;  2  ounces  Imme- 
dial yellow  D.;  2  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide; 2  pounds  soda  ash;  5  pounds 
Glauber's  salt;  enter  at  boil,  boll  one 
hour. 


GREEN. 

5  per  cent  pyrogene  yellow  M.;  5 
per  cent  pyrogene  green  B.;  10  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  5  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash 
well. 

MAROON. 

25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  6  per  cent 
Rosanthren  C.  B.;  5  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;   wash. 

Diazotize:  1^4  pounds  nitrate  soda; 
four  pounds  hydrochloric  acid;  turn 
for  15  minutes;  develop  two  pounds 
beta  naphthol;  2  pounds  soda  ash;  turn 
for  15  minutes;  wash  well. 

SKY  BLUE. 

2  pounds  Immedial  sky  blue;  two 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  5  pounds 
soda  ash;  15  pounds  Glauber's  salt; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour. 


FIGURED   SILK   (LENO) 
WAISTING 

Figured  walsting  Is  a  light-weight 
wash  fabric,  generally  composed  of 
1-40  cotton  warp  and  either  single  or 
two-ply  silk  or  spun  silk  filling,  1-60 
silk  and  2-60  mercerized  or  spun  silk 
filling  being  in  great  favor  for  the  past 
few  years. 

This  fabric  can  be  woven  on  either 
the  dobby  or  jacquard  loom  having 
single  or  double  box  motion.  Very 
elaborate  and  popular  styles  are  cre- 
ated by  using 

FANCY  GRANITE  WEAVES 

(filling  effect)  for  ground,  and 
for  figuring  use  the  filling  effect  of 
diamond,  spot,  crossed  or  curved  twill 
weaves.  These  are  so  regularly  ar- 
ranged as  to  produce  apparent  Jac- 
quard patterns.  Persian  stripes  can  be 
produced  by  using  bright  colored  ex- 
tra warp  threads  and  arranging  the 
weave  so  as  to  raise  them  on  the  face 
of  the  cloth  in  Oriental  or  floral  de- 
signs. Spots  are  sometimes  woven  into 
this  fabric  by  using  extra  warp  and 
clipping  the  long  floats  of  yarn  off  the 
back  of  the  cloth. 


380 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Very  elegant  styles  are  made  by  In- 
troducing leno  weaving  by  means  of 
white  and  colored  fancy  yarns  to  pro- 
duce open  or  lace  work  in  the  cloth. 

Figured  waisting  is  made  in  both 
chambray  and  stripe  pattern,  always 
having  white  filling.  For  chambrays 
the  following 

COLORS 

are  serviceable:  dark  blue,  light  blue, 
brown,  pink,  red,  pearl,  steel,  light 
green,  tan,  ecru,  etc. 

The  combination  of  cotton  warp  and 
silk  or  spun  silk  filling  creates  a  silky 
sheen  on  the  face  of  the  fabric  as  thg 
light  strikes  it,  and  this  in  itself  is 
its  most  important  selling  feature. 

IN  WEAVING 

this  fabric  the  take-up  roller  should  be 
covered  with  fine  sandpaper  and  this 
paper  presents  a  more  even  surface  to 
the  cloth  and  does  not  draw  the  filling, 
as  is  often  the  case  where  perforated 
tin  is  used  as  a  covering  on  the  take- 
up  roller.  The  perforations  usually 
cause  small  rough  particles  of  tin  to 
stick  out  prominently,  and  these  catch 
on  the  long  floats  of  the  filling  figure, 
and  as  the  loom  continues  to  run,  the 
yarn  clings  to  the  roller  and  draws  the 
filling,  thereby  spoiling  the  symmetry 
of  the  figure  and  causing  imperfect 
cloth. 

The  tin  covering  very  often  causes 
clouded  or  thick  and  thin  places  in  the 
cloth.  Especially  is  this  so  when  us- 
ing a  fine  silk  filling,  and  a  great  num- 
ber of  picks  per  inch. 

To  finish  figured  waisting  the  fabric 
is  washed  in  a  solution  of  soap  and 
cold  water,  then  dried  by  being  run 
through  the  hot  press.  After  the  press 
of  calender,  the  goods  are  folded  on  a 
folding  machine  (not  lapped)  in  the 
same  manner  as  sheeting,  and  after 
folding,  each  separate  piece  or  cut  is 
doubled  in  half  and  then  wrapped  in 
stiff  paper,  to  keep  out  all  dirt,  after 
which  it  is  ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

(SILK)    FIGURED  WAISTING. 

Reed,  1,300,  2  ends  per  dent;  38 
inches  in  reed,  to  finish  at  36  inches. 
1,300  means  1,300  splits  to  36  inches  of 
reed.  Warp  l-40s  cotton;  filling  l-60s 
silk  filling,  64  picks.   Take-up  of  warp 


during  weaving,  15  per  centj  1,300  reed 
by  38  inches  equals  1,372  splits;  2  ends 
to  1  split  equals  2,744  ends  plus  40 
ends  for  selvage  equals  2,784  total  ends 
in   warp. 

WARP    PATTERN. 
16   Vi^hite.  "1 

2   Light    blue.      J 
16  V^hite. 

8   Cadet    blue. 

2   Sky   blue. 

2   Cadet    blue. 

2  Sky   blue. 
12   Dark  blue. 

2   Sky   blue. 

2   Cadet   blue. 

2   Sky  blue. 

8  Cadet    blue. 

134   ends   in    pattern    =    67    splits. 

19  repeats  of  weave  and  pattern  plus 
40  splits  or  80  ends. 

FIGURED   (LENO)   WAISTING. 

Reed,  1,400— ends  per  dent,  2;  341^ 
inches  in  reed,  including  selvage;  fin- 
ish,  281/^.     Scour  and   calender. 

WARP  PATTERN. 
88   Red    1-40    cot. 

1  Black    leno    2-20   mere. 
4   White   2-40   cot. 

2  White    leno. 
4  White. 

2  White    leno. 

4  White. 

2  White    leno. 

4  White. 

1  Black    leno. 

112   ends    =    68    splits. 

Weight  one  yard,  2,286  ounces. 

1,752  ends   -f    15%   take-up   =   2,061 

yds.   1-40   cot =      .981  oz. 

40   ends    +    15%    take-up   =   47   yds. 

1-40   cot =       .002  oz. 

304    ends     +     15%     take-up    =    358 

yds.    2-40  cot =       .034  oz. 

38    ends    black    +    25%    take-up    ^ 

50   yds.    2-20    mere =       .009  oz. 

114    ends    white    -|-    25%    take-up    = 

178   yds.    2-20   mere =       .034  oz. 

56    picks    X    341/2    in.    =    1,932    yds. 

2-60    mere. =     1.221  oz. 

Tctal     ■ 2.286  oz. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Only  mills  having  up-to-date  ma- 
chinery and  also  up-to-date  ideas  cau 
hope  to  make  figured  silk  leno.  This 
class  of  goods  requires  a  great  deal 
firmer  yarns  than  the  other  cloths  that 
have  l^een  previously  described,  and 
these  yarns  are  made  in  the  third  di- 
vision of  mills  (as  classified  in  a  pre- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


381 


Vious  article),  i.  e.,  mills  making  yarn 
from  middle  to  high-grade  cotton.   The 

COUNTS  OF  YARNS 
for  this  class  of  goods  vary  from  30s 
to  60s  warp  and  from  40s  to  80s  (single 
or  double)  filling.  The  filling  yarn  is 
generally  mercerized  and  a  great 
many  times  extra  silk  ends  are  used  to 
produce  a  certain  silk  effect  in  the 
cloth.  For  the  carding  and  spinning 
particulars  we  will  consider  the  warp 
made  up  of  l-40s  cotton  yarn  and  the 
filling  of  2-60s  yarn. 

THE  COTTON  USED 
should  be  of  a  good  grade  and  a  great 
deal  of  Allan  seed  cotton  is  used.  This 
is  generally  about  1%-inch  staple  and 
should  be  as  clean  as  possible. 

In  mixing  this  class  of  cotton,  it  is 
very  important  that  all  the  bales  mix- 
ed should  be  of  the  same  length  of 
staple,  and  the  overseer,  or  in  large 
mills  both  the  overseer  of  carding  and 
the  cotton  sampler,  sample  the  cotton 
from  every  bale,  and  if  it  is  not  up  to 
the  standard  staple  and  grade,  the 
bale  is  laid  aside  either  to  be  taken 
back  by  the  cotton  broker  or  used  for 
making  yarns  which  can  be  made  out 
of  a  shorter  staple  cotton.  After  this 
the  cotton  is  put  through  a  bale  break- 
er (if  the  mill  has  one  which  it  should) 
or  the  cotton  may  be  mixed  by  hand, 
care  being  taken  when  this  latter 
method  is  used  that  the  layers  of  cot- 
ton taken  from  the  bale  are  pulled 
apart  as  much  as  possible.  The  ones 
in  charge  of 

THE  MIXING 
should  watch  the  men  while  they  are 
pulling  the  bales  of  cotton  apart  to  see 
that  they  do  not  take  too  large  layers 
from  the  bale  and  throw  them  into  the 
mixing  bin,  which  they  will  do  if  pos 
sible  so  as  to  get  through  with  the 
job  quickly,  for  it  is  dirty  work  at  the 
best.  The  bins  should  be  made  as 
large  as  possible,  so  as  to  accommo- 
date a  large  mixing  at  one  time,  as 
large  mixings  help  to  make  more  even 
yarn  than  small  ones. 

IN  SOME  MILLS 
it  is  the  custom  to  use  two  bins  for  mix- 
ing the  same  kind  of  cotton.  The  mix- 
ing is  done  as  above   described.    But 
one  bin  is  emptied  at  a  time;  the  cot- 


ton in  the  other  bin  is  allowed  to  dry 
out  while  that  from  the  first  bin  is  be- 
ing used.  Of  course,  when  one  bin  is 
empty  it  is  immediately  filled  up  again 
and  the  cotton  is  allowed  to  dry  out 
in  it  until  the  second  bin  is  emptied 
of  cotton.  When  cotton  is  put  through 
a  bale  breaker  or  any  machine  which 
opens  the  cotton  up,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  use  one  bin,  and  the  cotton 
does  not  have  to  remain  to  air  out,  but 
may  be  used  right  away.  The  good 
waste  from  machines  up  to  the  slub- 
ber are  used  in  the  mixing,  and  cut 
roving  is  run  in  at  the  finished  picker 
(it  having  first  been  run  through  the 
roving  waste  machine  and  made  into 
laps  at  a  breaker  picker).  The  raw 
cotton  is  taken  from  the  bin  and  put 
through  an  opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES   OF  PICKING. 

The  speed  of  the  opener  beater 
should  be  about  1,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  the  breaker  and  fin- 
isher beater  (two-bladed)  about  1,400 
to  1,450  revolutions  per  minute.  It  may 
seem  strange  that  the  speed  of  the 
beaters  on  the  opener  and  pickers 
should  be  about  the  same  as  when  low- 
grade  cotton  was  used,  because  the 
general  rule  followed  is  that  ii 
longer  stapled  cotton  is  used,  the 
less  will  be  the  speed  of  the  beater,  be- 
cause with  longer  stapled  cotton  a 
highly  speeded  beater  is  apt  to  and 
does  put  neps  into  the  cotton,  but  it  is 
necessary  to  run  the  beater  at  a  high- 
er rate  of  speed  for  this  class  of  cot- 
ton, because  it  is  very  dirty. 

EXPERIMENTS 
should  be  made  with  the  beater  in  or- 
der to  get  it  to  run  just  fast  enough  so 
that  it  will  take  out  the  dirt  and  for- 
eign matter  in  the  cotton,  and  the 
above  speeds  are  given  only  as  a  basi-s 
from  which  to  work.  The  weight  of 
laps  at  the  breaker  picker  should  be 
about  16  ounces  to  yard  of  laps  and  at 
the  finisher  about  11  ounces  to  yard  of 
lap,  or  for  the  finer  counts  10  ounces 
per  yard  of  lap  may  be  used.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  lap  is  35  pounds  and 
at  the  finisher  picker  receiving  about 
42  beats  of  the  beater  for  every  inch 
feed.  The  method  of  finding 
the  beats  per  minute  is  to  multi- 
ply     the      revolutions      per      minute 


382 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of     beater     to     one     revolution     per      3   if  a  three-bladed  beater  is  used). 
minute  of  feed  rolls  (this  may  be  calcu-      Divide  this  product  by  the  circumfer- 


lated  through  the  gears  on  the  pick- 
er in  the  usual  manner).  Multiply  rev- 
olutions per  minute  of  beater  by  2  (or 


ence  of  the  feed  roll.  For  example, 
suppose  that  the  beater  made  197.5 
revolutions  per  minute  and  was  a  2- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


383 


bladed    beater;    then    197.5    times    2 
equals  395  divided  by  3  (diameter  of 


feed  roll)   times  3.14  plus  equals  41.9 
beats  per  inch.  Ans. 


The  next  machine  is  the  card,  and  at 
this  machine  we  see  changes.  In  the 
first  the  wire  fillets  on  the  cylinder 
and  doffer  are  finer.  A  good  sized  wire 
to  use  is  35s  on  the  cylinder  and  36  or 
37  on  doffer  and  top  flats.  All  parts  are 
set  closer  to  each  other  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  nose  of  the  feed  plate  in 
relation  to  the  licker-in.  The  feed  plate 
should  be  set  so  that  the  licker-in  will 
not  take  the  fibres  being  delivered  be- 
fore they  are  free  from  the  bit  of  the 
feed  roll  and  feed  plate.  The  speed 
of  the  top  flats  is  sometimes  increas- 
ed by  lagging  the  top  flats  driving 
pulley.  This  is  for  the  purpose  of  hav- 
ing more  working  flats  on  the  cylin- 
der and  which  consequently  results  In 
taking  out  more  waste.   The 

SPEED  OF  THE  DOFFER 
is  a  great  deal  less  and  thus  the  pro- 
duction is  smaller,  for  it  is  quality  first 
and  quantity  second  with  this  class  of 
goods.  Of  course,  the  quantity  must  be 
looked  at  to  see  that  the  production  is 
as  large  as  possible,  but  it  must  not  be 
at  the  expense  of  quality.  Sometimes 
on  the  finer  counts  of  yarn  the  speed 
of  the  licker-in  is  reduced,  and  it  is 
found  to  be  of  great  benefit  to  the 
sliver  delivered  at  the  front,  because 
it  not  only  cleans  the  cotton  more 
thoroughly,  but  it  also  tends  to 
KEEP  THE  NEPS  OUT 
and  not  to  put  them  in.  If  carders 
have  not  tried  this  it  might  be  a  good 
plan  to  lag  the  licker-in  pulley  to  10  or 
10%  inches  diameter,  instead  of  nine 
inches  as  it  now  is  when  using  long 
staple  cotton,  especially  Sea  Island 
cotton.  The  draft  of  the  card  should 
be  about  125  to  140,  the  sliver  at  the 
front  weighing  about  45  grains  to  the 
yard  and  the  production  of  the  card 
being  not  over  500  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  Grind  cards  both  often  and 
light.  The  cotton  for  this  class  of 
goods  is  combed  and 
BEFORE  REACHING  THE  COMBER 
passes  through  the  sliver  lap  and  rib- 
bon lap  machines,  generally  14  ends 
up  at  the  sliver  lap  and  six  laps  at  the 
ribbon  laps.  The  weight  per  yard  of  lap 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  should  be 
about  260  grains.  As  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  is  at  the  drawing  frame,  nev- 


384 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


er  draw  more  than  you  double.  In 
some  mills  the  ribbon  lap  machine  is 
not  used,  but  where  it  is  used  it  saves 
about  IVz  per  cent  waste  at  the  comb- 
er. 

THE  COMBER 

should  be  properly  set  so  as  to  take 
out  about  16  per  cent  waste,  the  weiglit 
of  sliver  at  front  being  about  45  grains 
to  yard.  The  speed  of  comber  for  this 
class  of  cotton  should  be  not  over  90 
naps  per  minute.  After  the  comber 
two  processes  of  drawing  are  used,  the 
sliver  at  the  finisher  weighing  70 
grains  per  yard.  The  settings  of  the 
rolls  should  be  as  follows:  front  to 
■second  11  inches,  second  to  third  1% 
-inches,  and  third  to  back  1^  inches. 

THE   SLUBBER  ROVING 

Should  be  .55  hank  and  the  first  inter- 
mediate fly  frame  roving  1.50  hank; 
second  intermediate  4.00  hank,  and  12 
!hanks  or  packs  for  spinning  60s  and 
.55  hank  slubber  2.00  first  intermediate 
and  8.00  fine  frame  for  40s.  Care  must 
be  used  in  setting  the  rolls  as  well  as 
in  the  adjustment  of  other  parts  of  the 
fly  frames.  The  cotton  is  taken  to  the 
mule  spinning  room  and  spun  into  the 
counts  mentioned  above,  from  here  it 
is  taken  and  put  through  the  different 
processes  required  and  sent  away  to 
be  mercerized. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particu- 
lars for  figured  silk  and  leno  waist- 
ing: 

DARK  BLUE. 

10  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  blue  B.,  8 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda,  50  per  cent  common  salt. 
Enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  rinse 
quickly  in  cold  water  and  give  three 
washings  in  cold  water. 

The  tetrazo  sulphur  colors  can  be 
obtained  from  the  New  York  and  Bos- 
ton Dyewood  Company. 

BROWN. 

10  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  R., 
1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G.,  9 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda,  80  per  cent  common  salt.  En- 
ter at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  rinse  quick- 


ly in  water  and  then  thoroughly  three 
times. 

PEARL. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  black  R. 
extra,  1  per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  2 
per  cent  sal  soda,  10  per  cent  common 
salt;  rinse  well  quickly  in  water,  and 
then  thoroughly  three  times. 

STEEL. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  black  Ex., 
1  ounce  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G.,  1 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  10  per 
cent  common  salt;  rinse  well  quickly 
in  water,  and  then  thoroughly  three 
times. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

1  per  cent  new  methylene  blue  GG., 
1/^  per  cent  thioflavine  T.,  extra;  enter 
at  120  degrees  F.  and  get  up  to  160  de- 
grees F.  in  30  minutes,  and  turn  five  or 
six  times  and  wash.  To  be  dyed  or 
yarn  mordanted  with  tannic  acid  and 
tartar  emetic. 

TAN. 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  bronze,  2 
per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G.,  4 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda,  30  per  cent  common  salt;  en- 
ter at  boil,  boil  one  hour  and  wash 
well  in  three  waters. 

ECRU. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  bronze,  14 
per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G.,  1 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per 
cent  sal  soda,  20  per  cent  common 
salt;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  wash 
well  in  three  waters. 

RED. 

4  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  GL.,  20  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt,  2  per  cent  sal 
soda,  enter  at  150  degrees  F.,  give  six 
turns  to  180  degrees  F.,  wash  well  in 
water. 

PINK. 

14  per  cent  diamoad  Rose  GD.,  2  per 
cent  sal  soda,  25  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  enter  at  boil,  boi'  one  hour,  and 
wash  in  water. 

MEDIUM  BLUE. 

6  per  cent  )yrogene  Indigo  blue,  •'■ 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


385 


Boda  ash,  25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  and  wash 
well  in  water. 

SKY  BLUE. 

2y2  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  3  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well  in 
water. 

DARK  GREEN. 

10  per  cent  pyrogene  green  B.,  3  per 
cent  pyrogene  yellow  M.,  13  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  4  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well  in  four 
waters. 

Finishing   Particulars. 
Starch  with  eight  ounces  cornstarch, 
six  ounces  white  cocoanut  oil  soften- 
ing, one  gallon  water,  boil  one  hour; 
dry  over  stenter  frame  and  calender. 


CORDUROY 

Corduroy  is  a  narrow,  all-cotton  fab- 
ric, the  distinguishing  feature  of  which 
is  the  perfect  half-round  regular  ribs 
running  warp  ways  through  the  cloth. 
As  a  fabric,  it  belongs  to  the  general 
class  of  filling  pile  fabrics,  and  is 
made  of  one  system  of  warp  and  two 
of  filling.  The  warp  must  be  of  good 
cotton  staple  to  make  a  fine  strong 
end.  The  pile  filling  should  be  of  first- 
class  cotton,  soft  spun,  to  blend  more 
readily  when  the  ribs  are  rubbed  after 
being  cut  and  brushed. 

The  warp  and  ground  filling  is  wo- 
ven either  JL,  _L  or    —  twill,  the  pile 

pick  weaves  with  either  one,  two  or 
three  warp  end,  and  floats  over  from 
three  to  12  warp  ends.  The  length  of 
the  float  of  pile  filling  depends  upon 
the  wudth  of  rib  or  cord  desired  in  the 
fabric.  The  important  point  about  the 
pile  weave  is  to  cause  the  pile  filling  to 
weave  with  the  same  two  or  three 
warp  threads.  This  gives  ns  lines  of 
binding  and  lines  of  filling  floats  run- 
ning warp  ways. 

The  velvety  ribs  or  cords,  as  noted 
upon  the  face  of  a  corduroy,  are  creat- 
ed by  flrst  cutting  the  lines  of  floats 
of  the   pile   filling.    This  operation   is 


performed  by  hand  or  machine  with  a 
very  sharp  steel  knife,  after  which  the 
ends  of  the  floats  are  carefully  brush- 
ed, and  then  rubbed  together  to  the 
proper  degree  of  consistency  desired 
in  ribs. 

Corduroy  is  woven  with  from  160  to 
500  picks  of  filling  per  inch;  and  is 
afterward  dyed  in  dark  blue,  tan,  buff, 
green  and  olive  colors,  to  be  used  in 
making  clothing  for  men  or  women. 


eGQBBQaBaaaaBaoa 

DDBBDDB»DDB«aDB» 
GaaDDBBDDBBDaBBD 

BffissaBBfflaBGSiaeBa 
a(BL;ri^aB»e®BKE-aB£a 
DaDDBBQaiBaar-" 


IDQ 


Design. 


DnnnDCDDannBDnoa 

DDDDnDDDaaBODDnn 


3DDDaanBDDQQnDD| 

_ZDDnaic: ^ 

□aOBDODDDDCCDDDa 


CnaDQDBDOaDDDDl 


DaBDanDODDDDQaaa 

DBDDCBDDOBaDDBaa 
BDDDBaDDBaUaBDOD 

Drawing-in    Draft. 
□aBBDaBBaaBBaaBii 

CBODBBOOBBGOBBaa 

Reed    Plan. 

DDDBDDBD 
BOOBDaOB 
DDBDOaDB 
DDQBDDBa 
OOBBBBBB 
□QBDDDDB 
OBBOBOBG 
DDDDBDBa 
□DBCnDDO 
BBaDDDDD 

Chain    Draft. 


Ground  Weave  * 


S  Means  floats  of  Pile  Filling. 

□  Means  sinking  of  Pile  Filling  under  th«  warp  for  the  purpose  of  biadiog  im. 

It  is  also  used  for  upholstery  pur- 
poses, either  in  plain,  solid  colors  or 
the  plain  color  has  an  elaborate  floral 
design  printed  upon  it.  These  printed 
patterns  are  usually  in  bright  colors, 
such  as  red,  yellow,  light  green. 

IN  PRINTING, 

the  design  is  first  engraved  upon  a  set 
of  copper  rollers.  These  are  set  into  a 
regular  machine,  and  as  the  cloth 
passes  over  them,  the  color  being  fed 
to  the  rollers  automatically,  the  de- 
sign is  placed  upon  the  face  of  the 
cloth. 

It  is  woven  so  as  to  finish  from  27  to 
3114  inches,  the  27-inch  for  clothing 
and  31 1/^ -inch  for  upholstery. 


386 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


This  fabric  requires  a  loom  to  be  in 
good  condition,  as  tlie  beating  in  of 
such  a  high  number  of  piclis  per  inch 
of  filling  is  hard  on  the  loom,  and  also 
necessitates  slow  production. 

It  is  usually  woven  on  dobby  or  cam 
loom,  having  single  or  double  box. 

Weaves  are  usually  J_  or  -?-  or  _L 

Filling,  1  ground,  1  pile,  1  ground,  2 
pile,  or  1  ground,  2  pile,  1  ground,  1 
pile,  this  to  be  woven  in  a  pick  and 
pick  loom. 

Finish — Woven  in  the  gray  and  dyed 
in  the  piece. 

Four  square  inches  equal  21.2  grains. 
Finished  width,  31  inches,  equals  13.51 
ounces. 


equals    23.89    or    l-24s    cotton    ground 
filling. 

Weight  of  pile  filling  per  one-half 
inch  finished  cloth  two  inches  wide, 
equals  2.6  grains. 

2.6  grains  x  lo^^  equals  40.32x72 
equals  3,097.5  grains  divided  by  437.5 
equals  7.08  ounces.  Pile  filling  per 
yard,  cloth  31  inches  wide. 

Forty-eight  ends  per  inch  finished 
times  31  inches  equals  1,488  yards  plus 
10  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving  equals 
1,653  yards  of  2-28s  cotton  warp  equals 
2.249  ounces. 

160  ground  picks  times  31  equals 
4,960  yards  of  l-24s  cotton  filling 
equals  3.936  ounces. 

240    picks    tim-es    31     equals     7,440 


Corduroy. 


48  ends  per  inch  2-28s  cotton  warp. 
160  picks  per  inch  l-24s  cotton  ground 

filling. 
240   picks  per  inch    l-20s   cotton   pile 
filling. 

The  above  equals  finished  cloth. 

Twenty  pieces  warp  yarn,  two 
inches,  equals  40  inches  equals  .65 
grains;  40  x  7,000  equals  280,000  di- 
vided by  .65  equals  430,769,  equals  11,- 
965.8  divided  by  840  equals  14.24  or 
2-28s  cotton  warp  yarn. 

Eighty  pieces  ground  filling,  two 
inches  equals  160  inches  equals  1.55 
grains;  160  x  7,000  equals  1,120,000, 
divided  by  1.55  equals  722,580,  divided 
by  36  equals  20,071.66,  divided  by  840 


yards     of    l-20s     cotton     pile     filling 
equals  7.08  ounces. 

7,440  yards  times  16  equals   119,040 
yards  divided  by  840,  equals  1,417,  di- 
vided by  7.08  equals  l-20s  pile  filling. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

36  ends  per  inch  in  reed;  38% 
inches  wide,  10  per  cent  take-up;  25 
per  cent  contraction  in  width  from 
reed  to  finished  fabric;  18  per  cent  in- 
crease in  weight  in  dyeing. 

COLOR— DARK   GREEN. 
To   be   used   for   upholstery   purposes. 
-  ^^   -    twill  weave. 

Filling:  1  ground  pick,  2  pile  pick, 
1  ground  pick,  1  pile  pick. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


8S7 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Yarn  suitable  lor  making  corduroy 
is  made  in  tlie  second  division  of  mills, 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  The  raw 
stock  used  should  be  of  a  good  grade 
cotton  of  about  1  inch  staple.  The  mix- 
ings should  be  as  large  as  possible 
for  reasons  already  stated  in  previous 
lessons.  One  large  group  of  mills, 
which  make  this  class  of  goods,  use  a 
somewhat  different  machine  for  open- 
ing up  the  raw  cotton  from  that  which 
has  been  described,  and  instead  of  us- 
ing an  opener  after  the  cotton  is  put 
through  the  bale  breaker,  it  is  fed  to 
a  machine  called 

THE  WILLOW. 
The  cotton  is  fed  into  the  machine  in 
small  lots  and  the  machine  pulls  it 
apart  and  thoroughly  airs  it.  Some 
overseers  claim  that  this  machine 
treats  the  cotton  to  a  more  thorough 
airing  than  when  an  opener  is  used. 
It  is  again  claimed  that,  in  conse- 
quence of  this  fact,  the  cotton  may 
be  used  right  from  the  bale  or  mixed 
at  this  machine.  It  is  an  English  ma- 
chine, and  while  this  system  is  used  to 
some  extent  in  England,  it  is  the  gen- 
eral custom  to  use  the  opener  in  this 
country.  Good  sliver  waste  from  the 
cards  and  drawing  frames  is  used  in 
the  mixing,  as  is  also  the  sliver  and 
lap  waste  from  the  comber  room, 
when  the  mill  is  equipped  with  comb- 
ers. 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKERS 
are  used  with  either  a  willow  or  an 
opener.  Cut-roving  waste  is  used  and 
is  mixed  in  at  the  finisher  picker  in 
the  way  that  has  been  described  in  a 
previous  lesson.  If  an  opener  is  used, 
the  speed  of  the  beater  should  be 
about  1,000  to  1,100  revolutions  per 
minute,  with  a  speed  of  the  fan  about 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  at  the  breaker  picker 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  speed  of  the  fan  about 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  A  good 
weight  for  the  lap  made  at  the  breaker 
picker  is  40  pounds,  while  a  good 
weight  per  yard  of  lap  is  16  ounces. 
At  the  finisher  picker  the  speed  of  the 
beater  should  be  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute  for  a  two-bladed  beater,  or  9.50 


revolutions  per  minute  for  a  three- 
bladed  beater.  The  speed  of  the  fan 
should  be  about  1,100  revolutions  per 
minute  with  either  beater. 

A  GOOD  WEIGHT 
for  the  lap  would  be  about  38  pounds 
and  the  weight  per  yard  14  ounces.  To 
get  the  grade  of  cotton  used  for  this 
class  of  cloth  clean,  about  42  beats 
should  be  given  to  every  inch  of  cot- 
ton fed  at  the  back  of  the  finisher  pick- 
er. In  other  words,  every  inch  of  cot- 
ton should  be  struck  42  times  before 
it  is  passed  by  the  beater.  With  the 
above  speed  of  the  beater  (1,450)  this 
would  be  the  number  of  blows  that 
every  inch  of  cotton  received.  Don't 
forget  that  it  is  very  important  to  re- 
move the  fly  from  underneath  the 
pickers  at  regular  intervals  during  the 
day,  because,  if  the  fly  is  allowed  to 
accumulate  to  any  great  extent,  it 
might  be  drawn  into  the  already  clean- 
ed cotton  passing  through  the  ma- 
chine, and  it  is  sometimes  done,  as  all 
persons  working  around  cards  know, 
for  they  have  seen  at  various  tim-es 
large  patches  of  fly  on  the  lap  of  cot- 
ton.   This,  of  course,  requires  the  card 

TO  DO  EXTRA  WORK 
and  clean  and  take  out  this  dirt.  It 
very  often  results  in  bringing  up  the 
feed  roll  or  the  licker-in  of  the  card,  if 
not  noticed  in  time  to  remove  the  fly. 
It  will  be  seen  that  it  is  important 
to  keep  the  picker  room  clean  at  all 
times.  It  is  very  important  to  keep 
foreign  matter,  such  as  nails  or  pieces 
of  metal,  out  of  the  cotton  in  the  pick- 
er room,  because  of  the  liability  of 
fires  in  the  pickers,  these  being  start- 
ed by  the  foreign  substance  coming  in 
contact  with  the  quick  moving  beater 
blades  and  a  spark  being  struck  which 
ignites  the  cotton.  This  is  apt  to 
cause  a  bad  fire  if  not  promptly  at- 
tended to.    The 

SETTINGS  OF  THE  CARD 
should  be  the  same  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson  on  yarn,  made  in  the  sec- 
ond division  of  mills.  The  draft  of 
the  card  should  be  about  100  to  125 
for  this  class  of  cotton,  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  65  grains  to  the 
yard;  production,  about  800  pounds 
per  week  of  60  hours.  Three  processes 


388 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  drawing  are  used,  the  weight  at  the 
finisher  drawing  being  70  grains  per 
yard.  The  liank  roving  at  the  slubber 
should  be  about  .55.  The  two-process 
fly  frame  is  used,  the  hank  at  the  first 
intermediate  being  2,  and  at  the  sec- 
ond intermediate  6.00  hank  roving. 
The  rule  for  settings  at  these  ma- 
chines for  this  hank  of  roving  has 
been  given. 

The  spinning  frame  spins  all  the  re- 
quired counts  for  this  hank  roving, 
which,  for  the  corduroy  under  de- 
scription, is  20s,  24s  and  28s,  by 
changing  the  draft  gear.  The  28s  yarn 
is  then  taken  to  the  twister  and 
doubled,  so  as  to  make  2-28s.  A  good 
sizing  for  the  slasher  for  this  class 
of  goods  is  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  70  pounds; 
tallow,  four  pounds;  turpentine,  one 
pint. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

These  goods  are  dyed  at  the  jigger 
machine,  a  piece  of  30  pounds  being 
dyed.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  crush 
the  pile. 

One-dip  colors  are  used  for  some 
goods,  but,  as  the  sulphur  colors  are 
so  much  improved,  the  bottom  color 
is  dyed  with  sulphur  colors,  and  the 
goods  topped  with  brighter  aniline 
colors. 

COLOR   NO.    1— BLACK. 

Blacks  are  sometimes  dyed  with  a 
sulphur  black  as  a  bottom  color.  For 
30  pounds  of  cloth  (all  of  these  colors 
are  for  30  pounds  of  cloth) ;  15  gallons 
liquor,  3  pounds  immedial  black  V. 
Ex.,  2  pounds  sodium  sulphide,  3 
pounds  sal  soda,  3  pounds  common 
salt.  Dissolve  in  separate  tub,  boil 
and  strain  through  cotton  cloth.  Add 
to  jig,  in  two  portions,  at  first  two 
ends.  Run  for  30  minutes  at  boil. 
Rinse  in  jig.  After-treat  with  1  pound 
bichromate  potash,  one-half  pound 
sulphate  iron.  Rinse  well  and  dye  log- 
wood black.  Rinse  well  and  top  with 
a  paint  color  as  Prussian  blue,  or  dye 
with  a  basic  color. 

ANOTHER   BLACK. 

Dye  as  color  No.  1,  with  immedial 
black,  and  top  with  oxydiamine  black 


AM.,  and  rinse.    Top  with  basic  colot 
or  paint  with  Prussian  blue. 

DARK  BLUE. 

2-4  pounds  immedial  blue  C,  2-4 
pounds  sulphide  sodium,  3  pounds 
soda  ash,  3  pounds  common  salt  at 
175  degrees  F.  Run  30  minutes.  After- 
treat,  cold  15  gallons  liquor,  4  pounds 
peroxide  soda,  6  ounces  ammonia. 
Run  20  minutes. 

For  further  batches,  half  the 
amount  of  drugs  will  suffice.  The  color 
can  be  shaded  up  with  basic  colors. 

TAN. 

1  pound  immedial  brown  B.,  1 
pound  sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal 
soda,  3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  at 
boil  for  30  minutes.  Top  with  Bis- 
marck brown. 

BUFF. 

1  pound  immedial  bronze  A.,  2 
ounces  immedial  yellow  D.,  2  pounds 
sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda,  3 
pounds  common  salt.  Run  at  boil  30 
minutes.  Rinse  and  after-treat,  1 
pound  bichromate  of  potash. 

PEARL. 

3  ounces  immedial  black  V.  extra,  ) 
ounce  immedial  brown  B.,  1  pound  so- 
dium sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda,  2 
pounds  common  salt.  Run  at  boil  30 
minutes.  After-treat,  %  pound  bichro- 
mate potash,  %  pound  sulphate  cop- 
per. 

RED. 

2  pounds  diamine  fast  red  F.,  10 
pounds  Glauber's  salt.  Run  one  hour 
at  boil.  Rinse.  After  treat,  i/^  pound 
fluoride  chrome.  Top  with  diamine 
scarlet  or  safranine. 

GREEN. 

1  pound  immedial  black  V.  extra,  2 
pounds  sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal 
soda,  3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  30 
minutes  at  boil.  Rinse.  Top  with  solid 
green  crystals   O. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

%  pound  katigen  chrome  blue  5G.,  1 
pound  sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal 
soda,  3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  30 
minutes  at  boil.  Rinse.  Top  with 
auramine  and  green. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


389 


OLIVE. 

1  pound  pyrogene  olive  N.,  2  pounds 
sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda,  3 
pounds  common  salt.  Run  30  minutes. 
Rinse.  Top  with  auramine  and  Bis- 
marck brown. 

DARK  BROWN. 

2  pounds  sulphur  brown,  4  ounces 
sulphur  black,  3  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide, 3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  30 
minutes.  Rinse.  Top  with  auramine 
green,  Bismarck  brown  or  paint  a 
brown  on  top,  or  dye  a  catechu  and 
chrome  bottom,  and  top  with  the  above 
brown. 

■*-»-¥- 


DIMITY 


Dimity  is  a  light-weight  cotton  wash 
fabric,  the  distinguishing  feature  of 
which  is  the  cords  or  ribs  running 
warpwise  through  the  cloth,  and  pro- 
duced by  doubling  the  warp  threads 
in  either  heddle  or  reed  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  form  the  rib  desired. 

aaBGBaaaaBBGBGCig 
□BGaaaaaoGGBaaBa 
BGaGaaaaaaBGaGoa 
CBGaaaaaGGGar:  bbb 

BDBGBQBnBBBGBGaG 
DBGBGBOBaL][jBUflea 

aaBaaoBGBBacBuaG 
Design. 

DGnannnannnnnaaa 

DDBODDBnCDDDBDGr 

□aGGGBDaGGaaGGaL 
aDaDaDDaBaDaGGDc 

Drawing-ln  Draft. 

DGBBnaaaDcnBEnGa 
BaaGBBoaBaBDGBaa 

I     3     ends 
per  hediile  airl  dent. 
Keed  Plan. 

□ana 

BGBG 

cana 
aaaa 

GBOB 

BGBQ 
GBSB 

BGaa 
Chain  Draft. 

Dimity  is  a  ladies'  summer  dress 
fabric  and  is  made  of  regular  cotton 
yarn,  from  l-60s  to  the  very  finest 
counts  in  both  warp  and  filling,  and  is 
made  in  white  and  colors,  solid  white 
being  used  in  the  more  expensive 
grades  (warp  and  filling). 

Dimity  is  made  in  ribbed  stripe  ef- 
fects, and  in  such  colors  as  ecru,  pearl, 
light  blue  and  blue.  These  colors  are 
sometimes   printed   upon   the   face   of 


the  fabric,  after  it  has  been  woven  in 
the  white. 

Jacquard  scroll  and  other  figures 
are  printed  upon  the  white  dimity  to 
create  elaborate  patterns. 

Dimity  is  always  woven  with  a  plain 
weave^  ^,  and  by  printing  fancy  floral 
designs  upon  the  white  surface  of  the 
cloth,  that  compactness  of  texture  is 
retained  which  the  plain  weave  alone 
can  give.  If,  for  instance,  the  floral 
effect  were  woven  into  the  cloth,  ends 
and  picks  remaining  the  same  as  for 
the  plain  weave,  there  would  be  cre- 
ated loose  places  warpwise  of  the 
cloth,  due  to  the  warp  floats  in  form- 
ing  figures. 

Dimity,  being  a  light-weight  fabric 
composed  of  very  fine  yarns,  is  tliere- 
fore  best  adapted  to  the  lightest  run- 
ning looms.  A  plain  or  dobby  loom 
would  be  the  most  suitable  for  this 
fabric;  one  capable  of  weaving  from 
two  beams,  as  these  are  usually  wo- 
ven. 

Dimity  is  made  in  grades  having 
from  64  ends  and  picks  per  inch  to 
100  and  more  ends  and  picks  per  inch, 
the  count  of  the  yarn  varying  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  degree  of  texture 
desired. 

Dimity  as  a  dress  fabric  has  a  rath- 
er soft  feel,  and  so  receives  but  very 
slight  amount  of  starch  in  finishing, 
which  process  includes  washing, 
bleaching,  drying  and  calendering  the 
goods,  which  are  afterward  rolled  or 
lapped  into  bolts,  "each  cut  or  piece 
constituting  a  bolt."  Each  bolt  or 
piece  is  then  folded,  the  paper  bands 
put  on,  and  the  goods  are  ready  to 
pack  and   ship. 

Construction. 

One  square  inch  equals  .6  grain. 

28^/^x36  equals  1,026x6  equals 
615.6  divided  by  1  square  inch  equals 
615.6  divided  by  437.5  equals  1.407 
ounces  per  yard;  28 V^  inches  wide  fin- 
ished. 

40  pieces  white  warp  yarn  x  1^4: 
inches  equals  50  inches  equals  .16 
grains;  50x7,000  equals  350,000  divided 
by  1-6  equals  2,187,500,  divided  by  36 
equals  60,762,  divided  by  840  equals 
l-76s  cotton  warp. 


390 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


35  pieces  white  filling  yarn  x  iy2 
inches  equals  52i/^  inches  equals  1.6 
grains  521/^x7,000  equals  367,500  di- 
vided by  .16  equals  2,296,875  divided  by 
36  equals  63,691  divided  by  840  equals 
l-76s  cotton  filling. 

2Sy2  inches  wide  finished,  106  ends 
per  inch  finished,  84  picks  per  inch  fin- 
ished, equals  29  3-5  inches  in  reed, 
100  ends  per  inch,  80  picks  per  inch 
loom. 

1,800  reed — 2  ends  per  dent 
(ground),  cord — 3  ends  per  dent  and 
heddle,  5  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving. 

3,021  ends  plus  5  per  cent  equals 
3,180  yards  l-72s  cotton  warp  equals 
.841  ounces,  84  picks  times  28i/^ 
inches  equals  2,394  yards  l-76s  cotton 
filling  equals  .6  ounces,  total  1.441 
ounces;  1.441  ounces  per  yard  fin- 
ished. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Dimity,  or  rather  the  counts  of 
yarn  required  to  make  this  style  of 
cloth,  requires  first-class  machinery, 
and  it  is,  therefore,  made  in  the  third 
division  of  mills  as  given  in  a  previ- 
ous article.  The  grade  and  length  of 
staple  of  the  cotton  used  varies  with 
the  weight  per  yard  of  the  cloth  be- 
ing made  and  may  be  composed  of 
li/^-inch  Allen  cotton  to  2-inch  Sea 
Island  cotton.  For  this  lesson  we  will 
consider  the  counts  to  be  80s  and  the 
cotton  used  to  be  li/2-inch  Sea  Island. 
The  mixings  should  be  large  and  cot- 
ton allowed  to  dry  out  before  being 
worked.  As  Sea  Island  cotton  is  com- 
paratively a  clean  cotton  it 

REQUIRES  LESS  CLEANING 
than  other  cottons,  and  another  rea- 
son for  putting  it  through  less  proc- 
esses in  the  picker  room  is  because  oH 
its  length.  If  run  through  too  many 
beaters  the  cotton  is  apt  to  be  filled 
with  neps.  For  Sea  Island  cotton  of 
medium  to  long  staple,  i.  e.,  from  l^^ 
to  21/1  inches,  it  is  better  to  use  only 
opener  and  one  process  of  picking,  as 
compared  with  two  processes  of  pick- 
ing for  other  grades  of  cotton.  The 
speed  should  not  exceed  1,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  for  a  rigid  two-blad- 
ed beater.  This  gives  the  cotton  pass- 
ing through  the  finisher  picker  about 
29  blows  or  beats  per  inch.     The  laps 


should  not  be  as  heavy  as  when  lower 
grades  of  cotton  are  used  and  a  good 
weight  of  lap  at  the  finisher  picker  is 
30  pounds  or  10  ounces  to  the  yard. 
The  card  setting  points  should  be  set 
as  close  as  possible,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  feed  plate  to  the  licker-in. 
The  space  between  these  two  parts 
should  be  increased  to  the  correct 
length  of  the  staple  being  used.     The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
should  be  increased  to  125  or  even 
150,  the  speed  of  the  licker-in  made 
slower  by  lagging  the  licker-in  pulley 
to  10y2  inches,  the  speed  of  the  flats 
and  of  the  beater  should  also  be 
slower  and  at  the  finisher  picker  in- 
creased and  the  speed  of  the  doffer 
slower.  The  production  of  the  card 
for  fine  counts  of  Sea  Island  yarn 
should  not  exceed  350  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours,  the  weight  per  yard 
at  the  card  being  40  grains  per  yard. 
The  stock  is  then  passed  to  the  comb- 
er room  and  is  here  passed  througri 
the  sliver  lap  and  the  ribbon  lap  ma- 
chines and  from  here  to  the  comber. 
Generally  speaking,  14  ends  are 
doubled  at  the  sliver  lap  machine  and 
the  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is 
about  230  grains.  Six  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and  the 

WEIGHT  OF  LAP  DELIVERED 
is  about  200  grains  per  yard.  In  very 
fine  work  only  five  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  ribbon  lap  machine.  Tne  comber 
used  is  what  is  termed  a  six-headed 
comber,  and  the  draft  of  this  machine 
is  considerable.  The  amount  of  waste 
taken  out  at  the  comber  is  more  than 
that  taken  out  of  all  the  rest  of  the 
card  room  combined  and  for  the  cot- 
ton under  description  is  from  20  to 
25  per  cent.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
being  delivered  is  about  34  grains  and 
the  production  of  a  six-head  comber 
making  85  nips  per  minute  is  about 
240  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cotton  is  next  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  drawing,  the  weight  at  the 
finisher  drawing  being  55  grains  per 
yard.  The  slubber  makes  this  sliver 
into  a  .80  hank  roving. 

THE  HANK  ROVING 
at   the   first   intermediate   is   2.25;    at 
the  second  intermediate  5.00  hank  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


391 


at  the  jack  18.00  hank.  Care  should 
be  taken  with  the  settings  of  the  rolls 
at  all  the  machines,  and  also  the  cot- 
ton in  process  should  be  kept  as  free 
from  dirt  and  bunches  as  possible. 
Cleaners  should  be  frequently  picked 
so  that  the  bunches  gathered  on  them 
will  not  pass  through  into  the  clean- 
ed cotton. 

The  cotton  is  next  carried  to  the 
spinning  room,  some  mills  using  ring 
frame  yarn  for  both  warp  and  filling 
and  some  mills  using  ring  spinning 
for  warp  and  mule  spun  yarn  for  fill- 
ing. We  will  consider  that  the  warp 
yarn   is  ring   spun   and   the   filling   is 


per  minute  and  the  production  about 
.32  pounds  per  spindle  per  week. 

The  filling  is  made  on  the  mule  or 
frame,  and  all  that  need  be  said  is 
that  the  twist  is  less  only  3.25  x  the 
square  root  of  the  counts  being  put  in. 
A  good  size  to  use  for  slasher  is  as 
follows:  Water,  100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  54  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2 
pounds;  soap  (white),  172  pounds; 
paraffin  wax,  1  pound. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
PINK. 
For    100   pounds   of   cloth,    1    ounce 


.■•~C 


*# 


Samples  of  Dimity. 


ring  spun.  The  doublings  at  the  ring 
frame  are  2  into  1  and  the  draft  of 
the  machine  about  9  minus.  It  will  be 
understood  that 

ONLY  THE  LATEST  STYLES 
of  ring  frames  can  spin  80s  yarn,  and 
to  do  it,  it  is  desirable  to  have  the 
guide  rolls  rotate  so  that  the  roving 
being  drawn  over  them  will  not  be 
broken.  For  80s  yarn  a  good  gauge 
of  spindle  is  2%  inches  with  a  1^/4 
diameter  ring  and  a  4% -inch  traverse. 
The  size  traveler  to  be  used  varies 
and  the  correct  one  is  only  found  by 
experimenting,  but  a  good  foundation 
to  work  from  is  a  22-0  traveler.  The 
standard  warp  twist  is  4.50  x  square 
root  of  count.  The  speed  of  the 
spindles  should  be     9,400  revolutions 


benzo  fast  pink  2BL.,  10  per  cent  soap, 
150  degrees  F. 

LIGHT  SKY  BLUE. 
14  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  pow- 
der, 1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  1  per 
cent  soda  ash,  10  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  wash  well  and  top  with  1  ounce 
Methylene  blue  O.  O. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 
4  ounces  brilliant  benzo  green  B,  V2 
ounce  chrysophenine,  10  per  cent  soap, 
150  degrees  F. 

PEARL. 

4   ounces   immedial   black   NRT,    14 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  %  per  cent 
soda  ash,  2  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
GRAY. 

4  per  cent  immedial  black  NRT,  ^ 


392 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


ounce  immedial  olive  B,  %  per  cent 
sulphide  soda,  i^  per  cent  soda  ash,  2 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 

%  pound  immedial  direct  blue  B,  Vi 
ounce  immedial  olive  B,  i/^  pound  sul- 
phide soda,  1/^  pound  soda  ash,  2  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt. 

SLATE. 

iy2  per  cent  immedial  black  NRT, 
IVz  per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B,  3 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  1  per  cent 
soda  asn,  10  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

ECRU. 

%  per  cent  immedial  bronze  A,  % 
ounce  immedial  yellow  D,  1  pound  so- 
dium sulphide,  1  pound  soda  ash,  10 
pounds   Glauber's   salt. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

%  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G,  Vz  per 
cent  immedial  orange  C,  1  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  1  per  cent  soda  ash, 
10  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

31/^  per  cent  immedial  indone  B,  2^/^ 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B,  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash,  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

SCARLET. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  scarlet  8  BS, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt,  2  per  cent 
soda  ash. 

SALMON. 

4  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S,  1 
ounce  benzo  fast  scarlet  8  BS,  10  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt.  ^^  per  cent  soda 
ash. 

MAUVE. 

4  ounces  benzo  fast  violet  R,  2 
ounces  benzo  fast  blue  BN,  10  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt,  l^  per  cent  soda  ash. 


CHAMBRAY 


Finishing   Particulars. 

Mix  up  cold  %  pound  white  German 
dextrine,  1  gf'llon  water,  boil  one  hour, 
and  starch  through  mangle  and  dry 
over  tenter  frame. 


Chambray  is  a  light-weight,  single 
cloth  fabric,  that  is  always  woven  with 
a  plain  weave  and  always  has  a  white 
selvage.  It  is  a  staple  fabric  of 
many  years'  standing,  being  next  in 
the  line  of  cotton  goods  after  the  better 
grades  of  gingham.  In  effect  it  is  a 
cloth  having  but  one  color  in  the  warp, 
and  woven  with  a  white  filling,  this 
combination  producing  a  solid  color 
effect,  the  white  filling  having  the 
chance  of  reducing  any  harshness  of 
warp  color  in  the  cloth. 

COMPOSITION. 

Chambray  is  composed  of  one  warp 
and  one  filling,  either  all  cotton,  cot- 


OBCwaaoa 
mjmaaama 
amamDuom 
mamamaua 
odQioaca 
naBaaaaa 
Daoaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 

WeaTO 


DnnanooB 

aamaaama 
DEDPaao 
BonDanua 

Drawing-iQ  Draft 

Doaanoaa 
aaouaaoa 

Reed      Plan 


ton  and  silk,  or  all  silk.  It  is  made 
27  to  30  inches  in  width  and  of  l-30s 
cotton  warp  to  l-60s  silk,  the  count  of 
yarn  being  governed  by  the  weight 
per  yard  desired.  The  weight  per 
finished  yard  is  2  to  314  ounces. 

GOOD  COLORS 

for  the  warp  are  navy  blue,  dark 
brown,  pink,  lavender,  black,  nile 
green,  etc. 

This  fabric  is  woven  on  any  and 
all  plain  looms  that  will  weave  other 
light-weight  cloths,  the  lightest  run- 
ning looms  being  the  best  on  account 
of  being  easier  on  the  fine  warp  yarns 
employed. 

Chambray,  when  made  ,of  cotton 
warp  and  filling,  receives  a  regular 
gingham  finish,  and  the  loom  width 
can  be  restored  to  the  goods  during 
the  finishing  by  the  process  of  ten- 
tering. 

TENTERING 
means  the  running  of  the  goods  over 
a  machine,  fitted  underneath  with  a 
series  of  coils  of  steam  pipe;  the  top 
of  the  machine  is  fitted  with  an  end- 
less chain  (on  either  side).  This 
chain  has  a  row  of  steel  needles  stand- 
ing erect  upon  its  face. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


393 


These  chains  are  adjustable.  This 
permits  of  altering  the  space  between 
the  chains,  the  idea  being  to  set  the 
chain  the  width  desired,  and  as  the 
machine  runs,  pass  the  needles 
through  either  selvage,  and  the  cloth 
is  stretched  to  the  width  desired. 

To  finish  charabray,  first  run  through 
the  sprinkler,  then  through  a  solution 
of  warm  size,  to  stiffen  the  fabric. 
After  the  sizing  the  goods  are  tenter- 
ed,  to  widen  and  partly  dry  them,  then 
run  through  the  cylinder  to  complete 
drying  and  last  the  calender  to  re- 
move wrinkles,  and  to  produce  smooth, 
evenly  ironed  finish. 

1  square  inch  equals  1.23  grains. 

27x36  equals  973x1.23  equals  1,195.- 
56  divided  by  1  equals  1,195.56  divid- 
ed by  437.5  equals  2.736  ounces  pel 
yard. 

27  inches  wide  finished. 

15  pieces  light  blue  warp  yarn  x  4 
inches  equals  60  inches  equals  .58 
grains — 6  per  cent  weight  size  equals 
.5452  grains — 15  per  cent  take-up 
equals  .4635  grains. 

60x7,000  equals  420,000  divided  by 
.4635  equals  906,148  divided  by  36 
equals  25,176  divided  by  840  equals 
l-30s  warp. 

30  pieces  ■  white  filling  yarn  x  2 
inches  equals  60  inches  equals  .55 
grains. 

60x7,000  equals  420,000  divided  by 
.55  equals  763,636  divided  by  36  equals 
21,214  divided  by  840  equals  1-36^ 
filling. 

78  ends  per  inch  finished  and  60 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  72  ends 
in  reed  per  inch  and  56  picks  in  loom 
per  inch. 

6  per  cent  size  on  warp;  15  per  cent 
take-up  on  warp;  weaving. 

1,300  reed,  2  ends  per  dent. 

27  inches  wide  finished  including 
selvage. 

78  ends  x  27  inches  equals  2,106  plus 
32  ends  white  selvage  equals  2,138. 

Reed    Plan. 
2.106    blue   ends    +    15%    take-up    = 

2,477.65    yards    l-30s    warp =     1.573  oz. 

32    white    ends    -f-    15%    take-up    = 

37.65    yards   l-30s  selvage =       .023  oz. 

«0    picks    per    inch    X    27    inches    = 

1,620   yards    l-26s  white   filling.  =     1.186  oz. 


2.782  ounces  per  yard. 


2.782  oz. 


Carding  a.nd  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  required  machines,  etc.,  to  make 
chambray  belong  to  the  second  di- 
vision of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  For  this  class  of  goods  a  1 
to  I'io  inch  staple  American  cotton 
may  be  used.  Mixings  should  be  large, 
so  that  the  yarn  will  always  be  as 
uniform  as  possible.  After  being  run 
through  the  bale  breaker,  the  cotton 
should  be  passed  through  an  opener 
and  two  processes  of  picking.  The 
usual  points  that  have  already  been 
given  in  connection  with  the  picker 
room  should  be  looked  after  and  need 
not  be  repeated  here.  The  speed  of 
the  beater  on  opener  is  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  fan  350  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  be  sure  to  keep  hopper 
on  this  machine  at  least  three-fourths 
full  of  cotton  all  the  time  that  the 
machine  is  working.  The  speed  of  a 
two-bladed  rigid  beater  at  the  breaker 
is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute  and 
the  speed  of  the  fan  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  lap  at  this  machine 
weighs  16  ounces  to  the  yard  or  about 
40  pounds  for  the  total  weight  of  lap. 

The  speed  of  the  beater  at  the  finish- 
er should  be  about  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  fan  1,100  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  the  weight  of  the 
lap  14  ounces,  the  total  weight  of  the 
lap  being  39  pounds.  Cut-roving  waste 
is  mixed  in  with  the  good  waste  at 
the  finisher  picker  as  usual.  The  set- 
tings of  the  card  should  be  about  as 
given  in  a  previous  lesson  when  the 
settings  for  mills  making  medium 
counts  of  yarn  were  given  in  detail. 
The  draft  of  the  card  should  be  about 
100  and  the  speed  of  the  licker-in  300 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  wire  used 
should  be  No.  34  on  cylinder  and  35  on 
doffer  and  flats.  The  cards  should  be 
ground  at  least  once  a  month  and 
stripped  three  times  a  day,  for  this 
class  of  goods.  The  weight  per  yard 
of  sliver  should  be  about  65  grains  and 
the  production  per  week  750  pounds. 
The  cards  should  be  cleaned  thoroughly 
at  least  twice  a  day  and  the  fronts 
should  be  cleaned  at  least  twice  more; 
the  strips  should  be  connected  four 
times  a  day  at  regular  intervals,  for  if 
this  is  not  done  the  strips  are  apt  to 
get  under  the  stripping  comb  and  onto 


394 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


the  flats,  thus  bringing  up  the  comb 
and  wire  onto  the  flats.  The  flats 
should  be  ground  at  least  once  a  month 
and  a  great  deal  of  care  should  be 
taken  with  the  setting  of  the  grinding 
roll.,  because  if  this  roll  is  set  heavier 
on  one  side  than  on  the  other  the  cot- 
ton will  not  be  evenly  carded. 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING. 

Three  processes  of  drawing  are 
used  for  this  class  of  goods,  the  speed 
of  the  front  roll  being  400  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  finisher  drawing  should  be  72 
grains  per  yard.  Production  for  60 
hours,  1,620  pounds  per  head  per  week. 
A  good  setting  for  the  rolls  for  1  1-16- 
inch  staple  would  be  as  follows:  1  3-16 


machine  not  being  properly  regulated. 
The  6.00  hank  roving  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  and  spun  into  30s  yarn. 
To  do  this,  the  following  is  given  as 
the  best  equipped  frame:  For  filling 
for  30s  yarn  most  any  high-grade 
spindle  may  be  used  and  good  results 
obtained;  gauge  of  frame  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring  Ig  inches;  length  of 
traverse  6  inches  and  twist  per  inch 
19.17.  For  30s  warp  yarn,  gauge  of 
frame  21  inches;  diameter  of  ring  11 
inches;  length  of  traverse  6i^  inches; 
twist  per  inch  26.02. 

A  good  size  that  may  be  used  at 
the  slasher  for  this  class  of  goods  Is 
as  follows:  Water,  100  gallons;  corn 
starch,  50  pounds;  tallow,  3  pounds; 
turpentine,  1  gill;  boil  30  minutes. 


Chambray. 


inches  between  front  and  second  rolls, 
1  5-16  inches  between  second  and 
third  rolls  and  1  7-16  inches  between 
third  and  back  rolls.  The  slubber 
rolls  are  read  as  follows:  Front  roll 
to  middle  roll  1  3-16  inches;  middle  to 
back  roll  1  5-16  inches.  The  slubber 
makes  the  sliver  into  a  .55  hank  rov- 
ing. The  hank  roving  at  the  first  In- 
termediate is  2.00  and  fine  frame  6.00 
hank.  Keep  the  bunches  out  of  the 
roving  as  much  as  possible  and  change 
the  top  leather  rolls  frequently.  Watch 
all  your  frames  to  see  that  no  one 
frame  is  making  too  much  bad  work 
either  by  a  poor  hand  or  through  the 


Dyeing    Particulars. 
RED. 
3%  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  G  L;   1 
per  cent  chrysophenine;    30   per  cent 
Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LAVENDER. 
Vi   per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R;    2 
ounces   benzo  fast  blue  B   N;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
NILE  GREEN. 
5  per  cent  katigen  green  2  B;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
PINK. 
5  per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


395 


OLIVE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  olive  B;  y2  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  B;  1  per  cent 
immedial  brown  B;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's; 4  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2 
per  cent  soda. 

BLACK. 
15   per   cent   immedial   black   N   N; 

15  per  cent  sulphide   sodium;    30   per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  indone  B;  5 
per  cent  immedial  indone  R;  9  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;   3  per  cent  soda. 

DARK  BROWN. 
15   per  cent  tetrazo   sulphur  brown 
B;   1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  black; 

16  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;    3  per  cent  soda. 

DARK  SLATE. 

2  per  cent  immedial  black  N  B;  2 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B;  % 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda; 
5  per  cent  sulphide  soda. 

DARK  GREEN. 

8  per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B; 

1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;   10  per 

cent     sodium   sulphide;      30   per   cent 

Glauber's;   3  per  cent  soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

3  per  cent  thion  brown  G;  3  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  1  per  cent  soda; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

Finishing   Particulars. 
STARCH. 
%     pound     corn    starch;     1    gallon 
water,  mix  cold,  and  boil-  %  hour;  dry 
on  cans  and  give  a  light  calender. 


CANTON  FLANNEL 

Canton  flannel  is  a  narrow,  heavy 
all-cotton  fabric,  having  a  twill  effect 
on  one  side  of  the  cloth  and  a  long, 
soft  nap  on  the  other  side.  It  is  al- 
ways made  with  one  warp  and  one  fill- 
ing. The  weave  generally  is  a  ^  ^ 
twill  for  the  winter  weights,  and  ' 
twill  for  summer  weight.  The  warp  is 
composed  of  regular  cotton  yarns  to 


which  a  very  small  percentage  of  size 
has  been  added,  say  2  or  3  per  cent, 
just  sufficient  to  allow  the  yarn  to 
withstand  the  operation  of  weaving. 
The  filling  is  spun  from  a  good  grade 
of  cotton,  and  is  made  with  a  slack 
twist  to  enable  it  to  nap  more  readily, 
as  this  portion  of  the  cloth  is  that 
which  gives  the  fabric  its  one  dis- 
tinguishing feature. 

THE  TWILL  WEAVE 
is  used  in  the  construction  of  this  fab- 
ric, because  it  permits  of  long  regular 
floats  in  the  filling  effect  of  the  weave, 
and  these  floats  present  an  excellent 
surface  from  which  to  raise  a  nap. 
The  other  side  of  the  cloth,  being  the 
warp  effect  of  the  twill  weave,  serves 
to  create  the  diagonal  rib  or  twill 
lines. 

These  goods  are  made  to  sell  at  27 
to  30  inches  in  width,  at  about  5^/4 
ounces,  winter  weight,  composed  of 
1-lOs  to  l-6s  warp  and  filling;  also  3^/4 
ounces,  summer  weight,  composed  of 
l-20s  to  l-14s  warp  and  filling,  the 
heavy,  coarse  yarn  in  each  instance 
being  the  filling. 

Canton  fiannel  can  be  woven  on  any 
single  box-plain  loom. 

L...;iinGr    v/eig-ht     three    ounces. 


DDBana 

DBDCIiia 

■anaaa 
DDBDaa 

DBDDtia 

■DQBaa 


DncaDDDB 
Dnaaaaaa 
DKaaaaao 

HaODBaDO 
DDDHDaDB 

aamaoama 


Winter    weight    five   ounces. 


OaiDGB 

DBDQBn 

ennncn 


DDDBnnDB 

aaBDnDBD 
naannBDa 
BaDDHoaa 


The  nap  is  raised  on  the  cloth  by 
running  the  goods  through  a  machine 
built  especially  for  this  purpose.  The 
machine  consists  of  an  iron  frame 
having  a  series  of  rollers  set  within  it, 
and  over  these  rollers  the  cloth  passes 
The  napping  itself  is  done  by  a  roller 
similar  to  a  fancy  on  a  woolen  card. 
The  cloth  in  passing  over  the  wooden 
rollers  at  length  passes  between  the 
wire  toothed  roller  and  a  wooden  roll- 
er. The  cloth  is  being  drawn  through 
the  machine  automatically  in  one 
direction,  and  the  wire-toothed  roller 
revolves  in  the  opposite  direction,  and 
being  set  for  a  nap  of  desired  height 


396 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


or  loftiness,  the  wire,  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  soft  filling  yarn,  brushes 
the  fibre  in  such  a  manner  as  to  cause 
it  to  stand  out  from  the  body  of  the 
filling  thread,  hence  the  nap. 

Canton  flannel  is  taken  direct  from 
the  loom,  measured,  napped  and  fold- 
ed; then  is  ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

4  square  inches  equals  9.25  grains. 
271^  inches  selling  width.  27i4:  x  36 
equals  981  x  9.25  equals  9,074.25  di- 
vided by  4  equals  2,268.56  divided 
by  437.5  equals  5.185  ounces  per  yard. 
271^  inches  finished. 

15  pieces  warp  x  3  inches  equals  45 
inches  equals  1.14  grains. 

45  X  7,000  equals  315,000  divided  by 
1.14  equals  276,315.78  divided  by  36 
equals  7,675.44  divided  by  840  equals 
9.14  or  1-lOs  cotton  warp. 

8  pieces  filling  x  5  inches  equals  40 
inches  equals  1.18  grains. 

40  x  7,000  equals  280,000  divided  by 
1.18  equals  237,288.13  divided  by  36 
equals  6,591.33  divided  by  840  equals 
7.84  or  l-8s  cotton  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed  540 — 30  3-5  inches,  including 
selvage  of  32  ends,  4  ends  per  dent. 
5  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving". 

68  ends  per  inch  finished  and  48 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  60  ends 
per  inch  in  loom  and  44  picks  per  inch 

in   loom.  ? 45s   twill  weave.     1-lOs 

1 

cotton  warp.    l-8s  cotton  filling. 

68  ends  per  inch  x  27  equals  1,836 
plus  32  equals  1,868  ends  plus  5  per 
cent  take-up  equals  1,956  yards  of  1- 
10s   cotton  warp   equals   3.725   ounces. 

48  picks  x  271/4  equals  1,308  yards. 
l-8s  cotton  filling  equals  3.114  ounces. 

3.725   ounces    warp. 
3.114   ounces    filling. 


6.839   ounces    from    loom. 


6.839  ounces    loom. 
5.185  ounces    finished. 


1.654  ounces    loss   in    napping. 

Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Canton  fiannel,  or  rather  the  counts 
of  yarns  to  make  this  class  of  cloth, 
consists  of  a  low  grade  of  cotton  of 
about  three-fourths  to  one  inch  in  sta- 
ple, and  the  mills  making  Canton  flan- 
nel belong  to  the  first  division  of  mills. 
The  bales  of  raw  stock  are  not  sorted 


out  as  carefully  as  is  the  custom  when 
fine  yarns  are  to  be  made,  but  all  the 
bales  should  be  stamped  to  get  the 
length  of  staple  as  near  uniform  as 
possible.  Larger  mixings  are  used  for 
this  class  of  goods  than  when  fine 
goods  are  being  made,  because  more 
cotton  is  used,  due  to  a  larger  produc- 
tion being  turned  off  at  each  process. 
The  cotton-  is  sometimes  passed 
through  a  bale  breaker,  but  more  often 
is 

MIXED  BY  HAND, 

i.  e.,  taken  from  the  bale  and  broken 
into  small  bunches  and  thrown  di- 
rectly into  the  mixing  bin.  The  cotton 
is  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  possible 
to  dry  out  and  is  then  put  through  the 
opener.  In  some  mills  the  waste  from 
the  comber  and  card  is  put  into  the 
mixings  in  very  small  proportions,  but 
more  generally  only  the  good  waste 
is  put  in.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute, 
it  being  remembered  that  the  lower 
grades  of  cotton  are  dirtier  than  the 
higher  grades  and  longer  stapled  cot- 
ton. It  may  seem  strange  to  some  of 
our  readers  that  the  speed  of  the  beat- 
er of  the  opener  is  1,050  revolutions 
per  minute  for  both  low,  medium  and 
even  high  grades  of  cotton,  but  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  staples  of  the 
cottons  differ  and  the  speed  of  the 
beater  really  is  based  on  so  many 
blows  or  beats  per  minute;  so  that  cot- 
ton having  a  staple  of  three-fourths 
of  an  inch  receives  twice  as  many  beats 
per  inch  as  cotton  one  and  one-half 
inches  in  length,  all  other  conditions 
remaining  the  same.  The  above  not 
only  applies  to  the  beaters  on  the 
openers,  but  also  to  all  the  pickers. 
In  these  lessons  it  is  taken  for  grant- 
ed that  a  two-bladed  beater  of  the 
ridged  type  is  used,  and  for  a  three- 
bladed  beater,  the  speed  should  be 
less,  or  as  two  is  to  three.  Special 
speeds  should  be  used  for  other  makes 
of  beaters,  such  as  the  vertical,  por- 
cupine and  Kirschner  beaters.  Two 
processes  of  picking  are  used.  The 
weight  per  yard  of  lap  is  40  pounds 
or  16  ounces  to  the  yard.  The  speed 
of  the  finisher  beater  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  finished  lap 
weighs   39   pounds  or  liV^   ounces  to 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


397 


the  yard.  The  bars  under  the  beaters 
should  not  be  too  close  together,  so 
that  the  dirt  and  foreign  matter  in  the 
cotton  cannot  drop  through  into  the 
waste  receptacle  after  it  has  been 
separated  from  the  cotton,  and  the 
dirt,  etc.,  should  be  thus  removed  at 
regular  intervals,  so  as  not  to  choke 
these  beater  bars  and  thus  allow  the 
dirt  to  pass  through  with  the  good  cot- 
ton. This  class  of  goods  should  be 
carded  on  coarse  wire.   The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
should  not  exceed  100,  and  a  draft  of 
90  is  much  better,  as  the  stock  will  be 
handled  better.  The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er should  be  300  revolutions  per  min- 
ute and  a  26-inch  diameter  doffer 
should  be  used  when  possible.  The 
production  of  the  card  should  be  from 
900  to  1,000  pounds  of  sliver  per  week 
of  60  hours.  Two  processes  of  drawing 
are  used,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  at 
each  being  400  revolutions  per  minute, 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
being  70  grains  per  yard,  six  ends  be- 
ing put  up  at  the  back.  The  hank  rov- 
ing made  at  the  slubber  should  be 
about  .50,  or,  say,  .55.  This  is  made 
into  1.00  hank  at  the  first  intermedi- 
ate and  into  a  4.00  roving  at  the  sec- 
ond intermediate.  The  1.00  hank  rov- 
ing is  spun  into  a  soft  twisted  6-count 
cotton  yarn  in  the  spinning  room,  and 
the  4.00  is  made  into  20s  soft  twist 
yarn.  A  warp  frame  to  make  6s  should 
have  the  following  particulars:  Gauge 
of  frame  3  inches,  diameter  of  ring 
21/4  inches,  length  of  traverse  7 
inches,  or  even  more  than  this  length 
may  be  used.  For  a  filling  frame  for 
20s,  use  2% -inch  gauge  of  frame,  1%- 
inch  diameter  of  ring  and  6%  inches 
length  of  traverse.  Remember  that  this 
class   of  goods   requires  a   soft  twist. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  pieces  are  run  through  the  nap- 
ping machines  and  the  fibre  well  rais- 
ed, before  the  dyeing  operation. 

The  pieces  are  dyed  in  the  jig  ma- 
chine, or  continuous  dyeing  machine, 
where  the  pieces  are  run  over  rollers, 
6-10  times  through  the  dyeing  liquor, 
and  then  passed  through  two  squeeze 
rollers.  In  the  continuous  machine  the 
nap  is  not  laid  as  much  as  in  the  jig. 


The  colors  generally  dyed  are  one 
dip  direct  colors,  bright  shades  being 
mostly  called  for. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  tetrazo  sky  blue;    20 
per   cent   Glauber's;    1    per    cent   sal 
soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Two  per  cent  tetrazo  brown  B. ;  ^ 
per  cent  tetrazo  yellow  D. ;  25  per  cent 
Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 
PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  rose  BD.; 
15  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

RED. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  purpurine  4  B. ; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One-half  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet 
R.;  Vi  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue  BN.; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  green  G.;  % 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 

Four  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  benzo  dark  green  GG.-; 
2  per  cent  chrysophenine;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;    3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ORANGE. 
Two  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 


soda 


BLUE. 


Four  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue 
G.;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter  per  cent  immedial  yel- 
low  D.;    1/4    per   cent   immedial  cutch 
G. ;  2  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
SLATE. 

One-half  per  cent  benzo  fast  black; 
1/2  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue  BN.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 


398 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


MAROON. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.; 
1  per  cent  diamine  bordeaux  B.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

When  the  pieces  are  dyed,  well  rins- 
ed and  dryed,  they  are  run  through 
the  napping  machine  to  finish  the 
goods  and  raise  the  fibres. 


DUCK 


Duck  is  a  heavy-weight,  single 
cloth  fabric,  made  from  all-cotton 
yarns.  But  one  warp  and  one  filling 
are  necessary,  and  these  are  usually 
of  coarse,  two-ply  yarns  woven  into  a 


aBoaaBPf 

Bamomcma 
■DBcnga 


IQ 

amaaomaa 
macnmaoa 

Drtwtog-m  Draft 


mamamDma 
Dmampmgm 
mauamama 
aaoaDBDB 

BaBDBDBD 
Design 


cloth  having  a  high  texture.  Duck  has 
a  stiff,  hard  feel,  which  fact  imparts 
to  it  the  splendid  wearing  qualities  for 
which  it  is  popularly  known  as  a  sta- 
ple material.  It  is  used  principally  in 
the  manufacture  of  sails,  tents,  car 
curtains,  etc.,  or  for  any  other  pur- 
pose requiring  a  good  water-tight  fab- 
ric, which  will  withstand  rough  usage. 
Duck  is  made 

IN   A   VARIETY    OF    GRADES 

weighing  from  7  ounces  to  the  yard, 
27  inches  wide,  to  25^/4  ounces  per 
yard,  60  inches  wide.  The  lighter 
weights  in  this  fabric  are  used  exten- 
sively for  awnings.  These  goods  are 
either  stripes  or  solid  colors  and  are 
never  plaided. 

The  majority  of  these  goods  are 
made  all  white. 

Nearly  all  known  textile  colors  are 
at  times  used  in  making  color  effects 
in  this  line,  the  most  popular  being 
dark  brown  and  white,  indigo  blue  and 
white,  tan  and  white,  tan  and  white 
twist  and  tan;  all  of  which  are  fast 
colors. 

Duck,  being  a  hard,  stiff  fabric, 
caused  by  using  coarse  yarn  at  high 
texture,  calls  for  a  heavier  loom 
than  that  used  for  an  ordinary  cloth. 


The  duck  loom  was  built  for  this  very 
purpose,  and  is  entirely  satisfactory, 
as  it  is  a  plain,  single  box  cam  loom 
each  part  being  heavier  than  its  cor- 
responding part  in  an  ordinary  light 
running  plain  loom. 

Duck  is  made  also  in  light  weights 
for  use  as  an  outing  trousering  for 
men  in  solid  black;  also  in  pale  blue, 
ecru,  pink,  etc.,  for  ladies'  shirtwaist 
suits. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  it  is  taken  from 
the  loom  and  measured,  then  washed 
and  sized,  then  dried  and  pressed. 

If  a  fancy,  solid  color  is  desired,  the 
goods  are  dyed  in  the  piece  after  the 
first  washing. 

AWMXG    STRIPE    DUCK    31"    WIDE    FIN- 
ISHED, 

Threads    per    inch,    50    finished. 
Picks    per    inch,    34    finished. 

61"  X  7,000  grains 

— -    =    6.72    warp. 

2.1  grs.   X  36"  X  S40  standard 

Yarn   is   2-ply,    so   it   is   13.44/2    warp. 

S5"  X  7,000  grains 

=    10.64    filling. 

1.S5  grs.  X  36"  X  S40  standard 

Warp   siirinkage,    from   tests,    15%. 

Filling    shrinkage,    from    tests,    6%. 

Reed   width,    31"   finished   -r-    .94    =    33"   wide 

in  reed. 
151^    reed    X     33"   width    =    512    dents. 
512    dents    X    3    ends   per   dent    =    1,536   ends 

in   warp. 
1,536    ends    -h     (6.72    X     840)    =    .2721,    warp 

weiglit     without     take-up. 
15%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.2721    H-   .85    =    .3201,    total   warp   weight   per 

yard    of   woven   cloth. 
34  picks  X  33"  reed  width  X  36" 

=    1.122   yds. 

36" 

of    filling   per   yard    of   cloth. 
1,122    -=-    (10.64    X    840)    =   .1255,    total   filling 

weight     per    yard    of     cloth. 
.3201     -I-     .1255     =     .4456,     total     weight     per 

yard. 
.4456    X    16  oz.   per  lb.   =   7.13  oz.   per  yard. 

AR3IY   DUCK   SSVa"   W^DE — 10   OZ. 

Threads    per    inch,    47    finished. 
Picks   per    inch,    38    finished. 
76"  X  7,000  grains 

=    4.63    warp. 

3.S  grs.  X  36"  X  840  standard 
Yarn    is    3-ply,    so    it    is    13.89/3    warp. 
100"  X  7,000  grains 

■    =     6.81    filling. 

3.4  grs.  X  36"  X  840  standard 

Yarn   is    2-ply,    so   it   is   13.62/2   filling. 

Warp    shrinkage,    frona    tests,    18%. 

Filling   shrinkage,    from   tests.    8%. 

Reed   width,   28 Va    -:-  .92    =   31"  wide  In  reed. 

141,^    reed    X    31"   width    =    450   dents. 

450    dents    X    3    ends   per  dent    =   1,350   ends 

in    warp. 
1,350    ends    -^     (4.63    X     840)    =    .3470,    warp 

weight    without    take-up. 
18%    take-up    in    weaving. 
.3470    -^    .82    =-=   .4232,    total   warp   weight   per 

yard    of    cloth. 
38  picks  X  31"  reed  width  X  36" 

• =    1,178   yds. 

36" 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


399 


of  filling-  per  yard  of  cloth. 
1,178    -H    (6.81     X    840)    =    .2059,    tota,!    filling 

weight   per    yard    of   cloth. 
.4232   +    .2059    =   .6291,    total  weight  per  yard. 
.6291    X    16   oz.   per  lb.    =    10.06   oz.   per  yard. 

HEAVY   DUCK,   38"  WIDE. 

12  oz.  at  2  81^"  wide. 
16  oz.  at  38"  wide. 
21  oz.  at  50"  wide. 
25%  oz.  at  60"  wide. 
Threads  per  inch,  44  finished. 
Picks  per  Inch,  32  finished. 
78"  X  7,000  grains 

• =    4.69    warp. 

3.85  grs.  X  36"  X  840  standard 
Yarn  is   3-ply,   so  it   is   14.07/3   warp. 
84"  X  7,000  grains 

: =    3.53    filling. 

5.5  grs.  X  36"  X  840  standard 

Yarn    is    4-pIy,    so    it    is   14.12/4    filling. 

Warp  shrinkage,    from   tests,    25%. 

Filling   shrinkage,    from    tests.    5%. 

Reed  width  =  38"  -^  .95  =  40"  wide  in  reed. 

14   reed    X   40"  width    =   560  dents. 

560    dents    X    3   ends   per   dent    =    1,680   ends 

in   warp. 
1,680    ends    -^    (4.69     X     840)     =    .4264.    warp 

weight   without    take-up. 
25%    take-up   in    weaving. 
.4264    -4-    .75    =    .5685,    total    weight    of    warp 

per  yard   of   cloth. 
32  picks  X  40"  reed  width  X-36" 

=   1,280   yds. 

36" 

of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
1,280    H-    (3.53    X    840)    =   .4317,    total   weight 

of  filling  per  yard  of  cloth. 
.5685     -f-     .4317     =     1.0002,     total     weight    per 

yard. 
1.0002     X     16    oz.    per    lb.     =    16.003    oz.     per 

yard. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Duck  is  made  from  various  grades 
of  raw  cotton,  according  to  the  use  to 
wliicli  it  is  going  to  be  applied.  Even 
Sea  Island  cotton  of  the  longest  sta- 
ple has  been  used  to  make  duck  cloth, 
but  this  is  the  exception  rather  than 
the  rule.  When  the  longer  and  higher 
grades  of  raw  stock  are  employed,  the 
cloth  made  is  generally  used  for  sail, 
and  the  Sea  Island  cotton  was  utilized 
to  make  into  duck  for  one  of  the 
yachts  which  raced  for  the  interna- 
tional cup.  For  the  average  use,  how- 
ever, 

THE  STOCK  USED 

is  of  about  one-inch  staple  and  of  a 
m^edium  low  grade  of  cotton.  The 
class  of  mills  making  duck  belongs  to 
the  first  division  of  mills,  as  given  in 
a  previous  lesson.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  a  bale  breaker  and  from  here 
is  passed  on  to  the  mixing  bin.  At 
this  bin  good  waste  is  mixed  in,  and 
sometimes,  in  the  lower  classes  of 
ducking,   comber  and   card  waste  are 


mixed  in  in  small  quantities.  When 
waste  is  mixed  with  raw  stock,  it  is 
mingled  in  certain  fixed  proportions, 
and  should  not  be  done  in  a  haphazard 
way,  because  waste  always  makes  the 
mixture  give  more  or  less  trouble 
while  in  the  earlier  processes  of  han- 
dling than  is  the  case  when  cotton 
is  used  by  itself.  The  cotton,  after  be- 
ing mixed,  is  allowed  to  stand  as  long 
as  possible  before  using  for  reasons 
already  given  in  previous  lessons,  and 
then  is  run  through  an  opener  and  two 
processes  of  picks.  As  the  lower 
grades  of  cotton  are  generally  dirtier 
than  the  higher  grades,  a  higher 
speed  of  the  beater  is  required, 
so  that  the  speed  of  the  opener  should 
be  about  1,100  revolutions  per  minute 
while  the  speed  of  the  breaker  picker 
should  be  at  least  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  speed  of  the  beater 
of  the  finisher  picker  should  be  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  or  about  42 
beats  per  inch  of  stock. 

The  lap  at  the  breakers  should 
weigh  at  least  40  pounds  or  16  ounces 
to  the  yard,  while  at  the  finisher  pick 
er  the  lap  should  weigh  39  pounds  or 
about  15  ounces  to  the  yard.  If  waste 
is  used  in  the  mixture,  generally  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  is  found  from 
what  is  called  licking,  i.  e.,  where  the 
lap  does  not  unroll  as  it  should,  but 
layers  adhere  to  one  another.  If  the 
lap  is   not  fixed  it  will  be   seen  thai 

UNEVEN  YARN  WILL  RESULT. 

There  are  various  causes  for  laps 
licking,  two  of  the  principal  ones  be- 
ing the  presence  of  too  much  waste  in 
the  mixture,  the  remedy  for  which  is 
obvious;  and  second,  that  the  current 
of  air  in  the  picker  is  not  properly  di- 
rected so  that  the  greater  part,  if  not 
all,  of  the  cotton,  after  it  has  passed  the 
beater,  is  not  blown  as  it  should  be 
onto  the  top  cage,  but  the  air  is  so 
directed  that  the  cotton  falls  on  both 
cages  and  a  split  in  the  lap  is  bound  to 
occur  and  cause  licking  at  the  next 
process.  Licking  is  always  the  cause 
of  a  great  deal  of  trouble  and  should 
be  stopped  as  quickly  as  possible.  The 
lap  is  passed  onto  the  card,  which,  for 
this  class  of  goods,  is  provided  with  a 
heavy  wire.  The  draft  of  the  card 
should  be  about  90  to  100.    The  sliver 


400 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


should  weigh  at  least  65  grains  to  the 
yard  and  the  production  should  be  as 
large  as  possible,  a  good  average 
ran-ging  from  900  to  1,000  pounds  per 
week.  Cards  should  be  stripped  on 
this  class  of  goods  three  times  a  day, 
and  some  overseers  advocate  four 
times  a  day,  but  this  extra  stripping  is 
to  be  questioned  as  to  advisability. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  for  this  class 
of  goods  is  300  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  sliver  is  passed  through 
three  processes  of  drawing,  the  weight 
of  the  finished  slivers  being  70  grains. 
From  here  it  is  passed  to  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .5.5  hank  roving.  From 
here  it  is  passed  through  the  first  in- 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
FOR  AWNING  DUCKS. 

As  the  colors  for  this  fabric  must 
be  as  fast  as  possible  to  sunlight  and 
rain,  so  the  color  will  not  fade  or  run 
into  the  white  stripes,  only  absolutely 
fast  colors  are  dyed.  The  yarn  is  gen- 
erally dyed  in  the  warp. 

INDIGO  BLUE. 

Indigo  blue  has  been  dyed  for  these 
goods  until  recently,  but  immedial 
blues  have  been  found  to  withstand 
exposure  even  better  than  indigo. 

Four  and  one-half  per  cent  imme- 
dial indone  B.;  4i/4  per  cent  immedial 
indone  R. ;  9  per  cent  sulphide  sodium; 


m 


>^_i^i^ir'y. 


Duck. 


termediate  and  made  into  1.10  hank 
and  onto  the  second  intermediate  and 
made  into  3.00  hank.  From  here  it  is 
passed  to  the  spinning  room.  For  awn- 
ing stripes,  this  three-hank  roving  is 
made  into  12s  warp  and  20s  filling,  and 
for  coarser  ducking  into  12s  warp  and 
18s  filling.  Good  specifications  for  a 
filling  ring  frame  are  as  follows: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
61^  inches;  and  for  a  warp  ring  frame, 
gauge  of  frame,  3  inches;  diameter  of 
ring,  21  inches;  traverse,  7  inches. 
The  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  twister 
and  doubled  as  required. 


3  per  cent  soda,  and  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

TURKEY  RED  OIL. 

(Time    About    3    Days) 
First,  a  thorough  bleaching  process. 
Second,  the  material  is  worked  in  a 
bath    of   aluminum   acetate    9    degrees 
Tw.  This  is  a  mordanting  process.-  In 
place  of  the  material  named  basic  alu- 
minum sulphate  at  9  degrees  Tw.  can 
be  used.  The  material  is  wrung  out  and 
dried  at  120  degrees  F.  for  24  hours. 
Third,  material  is  worked  until  thor- 
oughly  impregnated    in   a    bath    made 
up    of    Turkey    red     oil    and    9     parts 
water.    It  is  then  wrung  out  and  dried 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


401 


at   145   degrees  F.  for  12  hours. 

Fourth,  this  process  is  the  same  as 
second. 

Fifth,  the  material  is  now  worked  in 
a  bath  made  up  with  one-half  part  cal- 
cium carbonate  and  100  parts  water. 
It  is  worked  lor  about  one-half  hour 
at  95  degrees  F.,  and  then  washed  well 
in  clean  water. 

Sixth,  the  material  is  now  dyed  in  a 
bath  containing  from  6  to  15  per  cent 
of  alizarine  (also  5  parts  of  lime,  per 
100,000  of  water).  The  material  is  en- 
t-ered  into  bath  cold,  then  worked  for 
20  minutes  and  the  temperature  is 
slowly  raised  to  145  degrees  F.  and 
the  process  continued  for  1  hour.  The 
material  is  then  washed  and  the  water 
extracted. 

Seventh,  this  operation  is  the  same 
as    third. 

Eighth,  this  process  consists  of 
steaming  the  material  for  2  hours  at 
10  degrees  pressure  and  then  washing 
thoroughly.     • 

Ninth,  the  material  is  boiled  for 
about  %  of  an  hour  in  a  soap  solution 
containing  one  part  of  soap  in  200 
parts  of  water.  It  is  afterward  dried 
and  the  process  is  completed. 

BUFF. 

Pass  through  solution  10  gallons 
water,  one  pint  nitrate  iron,  33  degrees 
Tw.,  squeeze,  pass  through  solution  10 
gallons  water,  one  pint  caustic  soda, 
and  rinse.  Repeat  operation  until 
shade  is  dark  enough;  rinse  well. 
CHROME   YELLOW. 

Pass  through  solution  10  gallons 
water,  one  pound  white  sugar  lead, 
squeeze,  pass  through  solution  10  gal- 
lons water,  one  pound  bichrome,  four 
pounds  common  salt;  rinse  well. 
CHROME  ORANGE. 

Pass  through  solution  of  sugar  lead, 
24  degrees  Tw.,  squeeze.  Pass  through 
hot  lime  water,  squeeze,  chrome,  two 
ounces  to  gallon  boiling,  squeeze;  run 
through  hot  lime  water  and  rinse. 
LIGHT  BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  immedial  cutch  C; 
4  per  cent  immedial  brown  B.;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  rinse,  after- 
treated  to  make  color  much  faster;   2 


per  cent  blue  stone;  2  per  cent 
chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid;  rinse 
and  soap. 

DARK   BROWN. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G. ;  6 
per  cent  immedial  brown  B.;  %  per 
cent  immedial  black  NR. ;  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  rinse,  after-treat: 
2  per  cent  blue  stone;  2  per  cent 
chrome;  3  per  cent  ?  ;etic  acid;  rinse 
and   soap. 

MAROON. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B.;  6 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  rinse, 
after-treat:  1  per  cent  blue  stone;  1 
per  cent  chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid;  rinse  and  soap. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.; 
2  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D.;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's;  after-treat:  3 
per  cent  blue  stone;  3  per  cent 
chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid. 
DARK  GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B. ;  4 
per  cent  katigen  chrome  brown  5  G. ;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda;  25  per  cent  Glauber's;  after- 
treat:  3  per  cent  blue  stone;  3  per  cent 
chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid;  rinse 
and  soap. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen  per  cent  immedial  black 
NN.;  13  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3 
per  cent  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's; 
rinse,  after-treat:  3  per  cent  blue 
stone;  3  per  cent  chrome;  3  per  cent 
acetic  acid;  rinse  and  soap. 
DARK  SLATE. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  black  V. 
Ex.;  3  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's; 
rinse,  after-treat:  1  per  cent  blue 
stone;  1  per  cent  chrome;  2  per  cen* 
acetic  acid;  rinse  and  soap. 
AR.MY  DUCK. 

Army  duck  has  been  always  dyed 
the  old,  reliable  cutch  and  clirome 
brown.  First,  pass  through  a  boiling 
solution  of  cutch  logwood  and  fustic  or 
cutch  alone,  and  then  through  a  sola- 


402 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tion  of  boiling  chrome  and  sometimes 
a  weak  solution  of  nitrate  of  iron  for 
after-treatment;    rinse    and    soap. 

Army  duck  can  be  dyed  with  sul- 
phur colors:  5  per  cent  immedial  cutch 
O.;  1  per  cent  immedial  brown  RR. ; 
rinse  and  treat:  l^/^  per  cent  blue 
stone;  2  per  cent  chrome;  rinse  and 
soap. 


STRIPES— HICKORY  STRIPES 

This  is  an  all-cotton,  light-weight 
fabric,  averaging  about  five  ounces  per 
yard  finished.  In  appearance  it  re- 
sembles ticking,  although  it  is  of  lower 
texture  and  has  a  softer  feel,  due  to 
the  process  of  finishing.  It  is  al- 
ways woven  with  a,— regular  45  de- 
grees right-hand  twill  (warp  effect) 
and  in  two  colors,  blue  and  white  or 
brown  and  white  In  the  warp  and  all 
white  filling,  thus  forming  warp  stripe 
patterns. 

It  is  used  in  the  rural  mountain  dis- 
tricts of  a  few  of  the  middle  and 
southern  states  as  a  material  for 
men's  pants  and  shirts,  as  these  two 
garments  constitute  about  all  the 
clothing  necessary  in  such  sections 
for  most  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is 

A    TOUGH,    PLIABLE    FABRIC, 
having  good  wearing  qualities  and  on 
the     principle     of     economy     is     well 
adapted  to  the  needs  of     the     poorer 
white  laboring  class  of  the  South. 

This  fabric  is  made  of  regular  cot- 
ton yarns,  l-14s  and  l-16s  warp  and 
filling,  and  is  woven  to  finish  about  27 
inches  in  width. 

It  can  be  woven  on  any  plain 
loom,  and  is  usually  drawn  in  on  cot- 
ton harness,  as  these  are  cheaper  in 
the  estimation  of  the  southern  cotton 
manufacturer,  ,\s  he  can  use  up  old 
stock  in  the  spanning  of  cotton  harness 
cord,  and  in  i  ais  manner,  to  a  certain 
extent,  creatj  a  by-product,  as  against 
the  cost  of  equipping  the  plant  with 
wire  heddles  and  other  necessary 
findings — harness  rods,  frames,  etc. 

To  finish  hickory  stripe,  the  cloth  is 
taken  from  the  loom  and  measured, 
then  it  is  sheared,  sized  and  pressed, 
it  is  then  rolled  or  lapped  and  is  ready 
to  pack  and  ship. 


Four  square  inches  equals  9.25 
grain.     27x36  eqi;als  972x92  equals  8,- 

DBBDCB 

mmamma 
■DiaGir 

DBBDBS 
BBDBBa 

BDBBUa 

DDBDaa 

OBDDBQ 

■DDBDD 

DrawJDg-iD 

Draft 

DODBBB 

mmmaaa 

aocd    Plaa 

991.00  divided  by  4  equals  2,247.75  di- 
vided by  437.5  equals  5.137  ounces  per 
yard. 

15  pieces  blue  warp  yarn  times  4 
inches  equals  60  inches  equals  one 
grain.  60x7,000  equals  420,000  divided 
by  .1  equals  4,200,000  divided  by  36 
equals  116.666  divided  by  840  equals 
l-14s  cotton.  15  pieces  white  warp 
yarn  times  4  inches  equals  60  inches 
equals  .1  grain.  15  pieces  white  filling 
yarn  times  4  inches  equals  60  inches 
equals  .9  grains.  60x7,000  equals  420,- 
000  divided  by  .9  equals  466,666  divid- 

10%    contraction   in    width    in    weaving. 
5%   take-up  in  length  in  weaving. 
6   2-3%   shrinkage  in   length   In   finishing. 
fi%    size   on   warp. 

"WARP    PATTERN. 
6   Blue. 
3   White. 
3   Blue. 
3   White. 

15   ends   per   repeat. 

ed  by  36  equals  12,962.96  divided  by 
840  equals  l-14s  cotton. 

Reed  800—3  ends  per  dent,  30 
inches  in  reed,  including  selvage,  27 
inches  finished.  Filling — all  white,  74 
ends  per  inch  finished  and  60  picks 
per  inch  finished  equals  66  ends 
per  inch  loom,  56  picks  per  inch  loom. 

74  ends  per  inch  times  27  inches 
equals  1,998  ends  plus  24  selvage 
equals  2,022  ends;  1,998  divided  by  15 
equals  133  repeats  plus  3  ends. 

9  blue  ends  per  pattern  times  133 
equals  1,197  plus  3  equals  1,200  blue 
ends.  6  white  ends  per  pattern  times 
133  equals  798  white  ends,  24  white 
ends  selvage. 

1,200    blue    ends    +    5%    take-up    = 

1,2G3    yards    1-14    cot =     1.718  oz. 

798    white    ends    -|-    5%    take-up    = 

840    yards    1-14    cot =     1.142  oz. 

24     white     selvage      =     25.26    yards 

1-14   cot =       .034  oz. 

56  picks  white  filling   x    30   =   1,680 

yards    1-14    cot =     2,285  oz. 

Per    yard    6.179  02. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


403 


Finish  equals  sizing  and  pressing 
weave  — i  warp  effect  45  degrees 
twill. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLUE. 
Dye  in  the  warp — l^/^  per  cent  im- 
medial  indone  3B.,  4  per  cent  imme- 
dial  indone  B.,  4  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide, 3  per  cent  soda,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  rinse  well. 

DARK  SLATE. 
4  per  cent  immedial  black  NR.,  4  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda, 
20  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well. 

BLACK. 

1  per  cent  katigen  black  SW.,  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent 
soda,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well. 
DARK  BROWN. 

15  per  cent  katigen  brown  V.,  15  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda. 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well; 
starching,  one  gallon  water,  one-half 
pound  cornstarch,  mix  cold,  boil  one 
hour,  run  through  starch  mangle  and 
dry,  give  a  light  calendering. 


TICKING 

Ticking  is  a  single  cloth,  of  either 
medium  or  heavy  weight,  and  is  com- 
posed of  single  cotton  yarns  from 
l-14s  to  l-22s  in  warp  and  filling  or 
combination  of  both,  such  as  18s  warp 
and  20  filling.  It  is  a  good,  stout  cloth, 
having  fine  wearing  qualities,  and  is 
used  principally  for  making  bed  ticks 
and  pillow  and  bolster  cases.  It  is 
generally  made  with  what  is  known  as 

a  bed-tick  weave  or  -         or  ' twill, 

either  right  or  left  handed  45s  twill 
broken  or  herring-bone.  It  can  be 
woven  in  any  power  loom,  but  is  best 
adapted  to  and  most  always  woven  in 
the 

PLAIN   SINGLE   BOX  LOOMS. 

This  fabric  is  quite  often  woven 
upon  an  automatic  loom,  and  in  the 
future  it  undoubtedly  will  be  noted 
that  more  of  these  looms  are  being 
used  for  the  making  of  ordinary  fab- 


rics of  which  ticking  is  one  of  the 
most  staple.  The  reason  automatic 
looms  have  an  advantage  on  such 
cloths  is  that  a  much  greater  number 
of  looms  per  weaver  caa  be  operated, 
and  the  cost  for  weaving  be  quite  rad- 
ically reduced.  With  simple  weaves 
and  miedium  or  heavy  yarns  the  auto- 
matic loom  usually  will  show  quite  a 
little  advantage. 

Ticking  belongs  to  the  family  of  stiff, 
hard  faced  cotton  fabrics.  This  fea- 
ture is  created  by  using  twill  weaves 
(warp  effect)  and  these  weaves  permit 
of  the  use  of  a  more  than  ordiniry 
high  warp  texture.  For  instance,  take 
1     twill :    In    the    weave    there    arc 

interlacings  of  each  warp  thread  in  ev- 
ery four  picks  of  filling,  thus  allow- 
ing ends  to  lie  closely  togeth  r — 
hence  permitting  an  increase  in  ends 
per  inch. 

These    goods    are    usually    made    in 
two  colored  warp  patterns — dark  blue 
and  white,  red  and  white. 
WHITE  FILLING  USED  WHOLLY. 

Fast  colors  should  be  used  in  warp, 
as  bed-ticks  are  sometimes  ripped 
open  and  the  cloth  washed.  In  t'lis 
case  the  light  and  air  renew  the  col- 
oring on  the  yarns. 


aaaaaaaaaaaaoBBacBaaDaaaacaaacBB 
BaaBBBaaBBBDBBB  BBBaBaacBBcaaariB 

Design  and  Weave. 

nnDBnnnBnDBnDDBDnnBnDDBanDDBnnnB 

DDBDDDBnDODBDDDBDDGBDDOBDDBCDOBa 
DBDDaBDDBDDaBDnnBDDCBDaaDBDaDBDn 
■aaaBaDDDBLJDDBDDDBaDDBanBDGDBDDa 

Drawing-in   Draft. 

DnnDBBBBananBBBBDnnnBBBBDDDDBBBa 

BBaancGGaaaazGcaaaaaaanaBBaaaDDr' 
Reed    Plan. 

One  feature  which  is  worth  men- 
tioning in  regard  to  ticking  and  other 
similar  lines  is  that  they  are  to-day 
being  stock-dyed  in  increasing  quan- 
tities. This  method  consists  of  dyeing 
the  cotton,  or  bleaching  it,  as  the  case 
m^ay  be,  in  the  raw  state  and  then 
carding,  drawing  and  spinning  j  ist  as 
if  a  grey  fabric  were  to  be  made.  This 
results  in  decided  savings  in  the  cost 
of  manufacture,  and  probably  no  new 
plant  would  be  erected  except  on  the 


404 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


above  basis.  Certain  of  the  fast  col- 
ors which  have  been  developed  in  re- 
cent years  are  most  successful  when 
the  cotton  is  dyed  in  the  raw  state, 
and  this  fact,  together  with  economy 
in  manipulation,  is  the  reason  why 
stock-dyeing  has  been  used.  There  is 
another  advantage  when  coarse  yarns 
are  being  dyed  in  the  raw  stock,  for 
by  this  method  the  yarn  is  colored  to 
the  center,  whereas  in  other  methods 
penetration  is  seldom  thorough. 

Ticking  is  w'oven  with  from  60  to 
84  ends  and  picks  per  inch  in  the 
loom,  according  to  grade  required.  The 
greater  the  number  of  warp  threads 
the  stouter  the  fabric  in  proportion  to 
counts  of  yarns  used. 

To  finish  these  goods,  they  are 
brushed  and  sheared  to  remove  all 
lumps  and  foreign  substances  from  the 
face  of  the  cloth.  Then  the  cloth  is 
sized  and  calendered,  which  acts  in 
the  same  manner  as  a  hot  press,  after 
which  the  cloth  is  lapped  or  rolled  into 
bolts,  then  stitched,  and  is  ready  to 
pack  and  ship. 

CONSTRUCTION  OF  TICKING. 
Reed    725 — 33    inches,    4     ends     per 
dent.     l-16s    warp,    l-20s     filling,     74 
picks;  121/^  per  cent  take-up  in  weav- 
ing;   10  per  cent  size  on  warp,   7   per 

cent  size  of  cloth  in  finish;  ^ her- 
ring-bone twill  weave:  finish  equals 
311/^  inches,  and  includes  brushing, 
shearing,  sizing  and  calendering. 

WARP  PATTERN. 
16   White. 
2   Blue. 
2   White. 
8   Blue. 
2   White. 
2   Blue. 
1    square    in.    ^    2.9    grains. 

3114  times  36  equals  1,134  square 
inches  times  2.9  equals  3,288.6  grains 
divided  by  437.5  equals  7.51  ounces. 

18  pieces  warp  yarn,  2  inches,  equals 
36  inches  equals  .55  grains;  36  x  7,000 
equals  252,000  divided  by  .55  equals 
45,818  divided  by  36  equals  12,727  di- 
vided by  840  equals  l-16s  warp  yarn. 

20  pieces  filling  yam,  li^  inches, 
equals  30  inches  equals  .34  grains. 

30  X  7,000  equals  210,000  divided  by 
.34  equals  617,644  divided  by  36  equals 
17,156  divided  by  840  equals  l-20s  fill- 
ing yarn. 


92  ends  per  inch  finished  equals  86 
in    reed. 

78  picks  per  inch  finished  equals  74 
in  loom. 

92  X  3114  equals  2,898  plus  24  equals 
2,922   ends. 

1,473  ends  white  equals  12^^  per  cent 
take-up  equals  1,683  yards. 

l-16s   cotton  warp   equals  2   ounces. 

1,449  ends  blue  equals  12 1/^  per  cent 
take-up    equals    1,656    yards. 

l-16s  cotton  warp  equals  1.97  ounces 
plus  22  per  cent  increase  by  dyeing 
equals  2.22  ounces. 

White  warp  yarn  equals  2  ounces 
plus  blue  warp  yarn  equals  4.22 
ounces  plus  10  per  cent  size  equals 
4.64  ounces. 

78  picks  X  Ziy2  equals  2,457  yards 
l-20s  filling  equals  2.34  ounces. 

Warp  weight  equals  4.64  ounces  plus 
filling  w'eight  equals  2.34  ounces  plus 
7  per  cent  size  in  finishing  equals  7.50. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  used  in  ticking  are  made 
in  mills  of  the  first  division,  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  The  length  of 
the  raw  stock  used  varies  in  different 
mills  according  to  the  grade  of  tick- 
ing to  be  made,  but  is  generally  %  to 
1|  inches  in  length.  This  does  not 
mean  that  raw  stock  of  from  %  to  11 
inches  is  used  in  the  same  mixing,  but 
that  the  mixing  is  made  up  of  stock  of 
uniform  length. 

THE  MIXINGS 
for  this  class  of  goods  are  generally 
made  by  hand  and  the  bins  should  be 
made  as  large  as  possible,  so  as  to 
accommodate  large  mixings.  It  would 
be  better  to  have  two  large  bins  in- 
stead of  one,  so  that  one  lot  of  raw 
stock  could  he  opened  and  dried  out 
while  feeding  the  machines  from  the 
other  bin.  On  this  class  of  goods 
comber  waste  is  used  in  some  mills, 
and  the  cut-roving  waste  is  also  mix- 
ed, as  has  been  before  stated.  An 
opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 
are  used,  and  the  lap  should  be  made 
as  heavy  as  possible  without,  of 
course,  making  it  so  heavy  that  it  will 
bring  up  the  cards  and  finisher  picker. 
Keep  the  hopper  of  the  opener  as  full 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


405 


as  possible,  and  you  will  find  that  an 
evener  lap  will  be  made.  The  speed 
of  the  fan  of  the  opener  should  be 
1,100  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  (of  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type)  should  be  at  least  15,000 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  weight 
of  lap  about  40  pounds  or  20  ounces  in 
weight  per  yard.  The  lap  is  put  up  at 
the  breaker  and  doubled  four  into  one 
and  delivered  so  as  to  weigh  liVz 
ounces  per  yard,  or  about  39  pounds 
for  the  whole  lap.    The 

SPEED   OF  THE   BEATER 

on  this  machine  should  be  1,450  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  beats  per 
inch    that    the    cotton    would    receive 


every  month,  having  the  grinding  roll- 
ers on  for  at  least  a  half  a  day.  Of 
course,  grinding  means  loss  of  pro- 
duction, but  it  has  to  be  done;  other- 
wise, bad  work  will  result,  and  if  you 
keep  your  wire  sharp  you  will  find 
that  you  will  have  less  trouble  with 
your  cards  and  a  great  deal  less  kick- 
ing on  account  of  poor  work. 

THE   SETTINGS 

that  should  be  used  for  this  class  of 
goods  have  been  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  The  card  sliver  should  be  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing,  the 
sliver  weighing  75  grains  per  yard  at 
the  finisher  drawing  frame.  Remem- 
ber  never    to    draw    more     than     you 


Ticking. 


would  be  about  42.  See  that  all  your 
drafts  on  the  picker  are  properly  reg- 
ulated, so  that  a  lap  will  be  obtained 
that  will  not  split.  Of  course,  this  is 
not  the  only  reason  that  makes  a  lap 
split,  but  it  is  one  of  the  principal 
ones.  Another  cause  for  split  laps  is 
found  in  putting  too  much  waste  in 
the  mixing.  The  lap  is  then  put  up  at 
the  card  which  should  be  provided 
with  coarse  wire  fillet.    The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
should  not  exceed  100.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be  about  65  grains 
per  yard  and  the  production  about  1,- 
000  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cards  should  be  ground  at  least  once 


double.  The  sliver  is  passed  through 
the  slubber  and  the  hank  roving 
should  be  about  .40.  Set  the  rolls  for 
%-inch  stock  on  this  machine  as  fol- 
lows: Front  to  middle,  li  inches;  mid- 
dle to  back,  2  inches.  Two  processes 
of  fly  frames  should  be  used,  the  hank 
roving  being  made  at  the  first  inter- 
mediate about  1.40,  and  at  the  second 
from    3    to    3.40. 

THE  SPINNING. 
This  roving  is  then  taken  to  the 
spinning  room,  where  it  is  spun  into 
the  required  count.  For  16s  the  fol- 
lowing would  be  a  good  equipment  fon 
a  warp  frame:  gauge  of  spindle,  three 
inches;   diameter  of  ring,  two  inches; 


406 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


length  of  traverse,  seven  inches,  and 
for  a  filling  frame:  gauge  of  spindle, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  lYz 
inches,  and  length  of  traverse,  from 
GVz  to  61  inches,  according  to  twist 
put  in;  the  more  twist  the  more  length 
of  traverse  may  be  used.  The  produc- 
tion for  a  spinning  frame  lor  16s,  with 
the  speed  of  front  roll  139  revolutions 
per  minute,  twist  19  and  revolutions 
of  spindles  8,300,  would  be  about  3.15 
pounds  per  spindle  per  week.  For  a 
filling  frame  for  16s,  with  front  roll 
speed  of  159  revolutions  per  minute, 
twist  per  inch  13,  speed  of  spindles 
6,500  revolutions  per  minute,  the  pro- 
duction would  be  about  3.34  pounds 
per  spindle  per  week. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

Formerly  ticking  had  only  blue 
stripes  dyed  indigo  blue.  For  some 
time  a  variety  of  colors  have  been 
introduced,  and  now  many  colors  are 
used,  some  with  narrow  stripes  mixed 
with  broad  stripes,  having  from  three 
to  five  or  more  different  colors  in  the 
same  pattern. 

BLUE. 

Dyed  with  indigo  or  one  of  the  sul- 
phur blues. 

Eight  per  cent  pyrogene  indigo;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  common  salt. 

This  color  can.be  after-treated  with 
iy2  per  cent  chrome;  iy2  per  cent  cop- 
per sulphate;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid, 
125  degrees  F. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo  cutch 
brown;  I  per  cent  tetrazo  black  N. ;  2 
per  cent  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  Thion  brown  G.;  2 
per  cent  soda;  3  per  cent  sulphide 
soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
Three-fourths  per  cent  Thion  black 
B.;   1%  per  cent  sal  soda;   1  per  cent 
sulphide  soda;    10  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

RED. 
Three  per  cent  tetrazo  red    4  B.;   2 
per     cent     sal     soda;     20     per     cent 
Glauber's  salt. 


DARK  BROWN. 

One  and  one-quarter  per  cent  Thion 
black  B.;  5  per  cent  Thion  brown  G.; 
3  per  cent  sal  soda;  6  per  cent  sul- 
phide soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT  BRONZE. 

One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo 
chlorine  yellow  GG.;  ^4  per  cent  tet- 
razo black  N.;  i/4  per  cent  tetrazo 
brown  R.;  1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per 
cent   Glauber's    salt. 

DRAB. 

One-eighth     per     cent     benzo     fast 
black;    V4,  per  cert  chloramine  yellow 
M.;    1-16  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  GL. 
LIGHT    OLIVE. 

One-half  per  cent  benzo  dark  green 
GG.;    1/^  per  cent  chrysophenine. 
DARK   OLIVE. 

Four  per  cent  benzo  dark  green  GG. ; 
2  per  cent  chrysophenine.  The  above 
three  colors  are  eaca  dyed  with  20 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt  and  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

DARK   SLATE. 

Two  and  one-quarter  per  cent  benzo 
fast  black;  i  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue 
BN. ;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

WINE. 

Four  per  cent  benzo  fast  scarlet  8 
BS.;  1  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  FAWN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  brown 
M.;  Vs  per  cent  diamine  brown  3  G. ;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's   salt. 

STEEL. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  steel  blue 
L. ;  y2  per  cent  diamine  black  B.  H. ; 
V4,  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's    salt. 


0SNABUR6 

Osnaburg  is  a  coarse,  single  cloth 
composed  of  all-cotton  yarns,  l-16s, 
l-18s,  l-20s,  warp  and  filling,  and  is 
made  in  warp  stripe  patterns  and  in 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


407 


checks,  the  colors  invariably  being  in- 
digo blue  and  white  or  dark  brown 
and  white. 

It  is  manufactured  into  overalls  and 
jumpers  or  mock  shirts,  and  is  used  in 
the  South  by  the  colored  farm  and 
plantation  laborers.  It  is  a  strong  fab- 
ric,  having 

EXCELLENT  WEARING  QUALITIES, 
and  is  especially  adapted  to  any  pur- 


The  check  patterns  are  made  on  any 
loom  having  a  box  motion  attached. 

In  arranging  check  or  plaid  pat- 
terns the  strong,  long  or  broad  way 
of  the  pattern  indicates  the  filling  and 
the  greatest  number  of  threads  per 
inch  indicate  the  warp,  and  to  square 
a  clieck  or  plaid  pattern  means  to 
practically  produce  the  same  color  ef- 
fect in  the  filling  as  in  the  warp. 
Hence  the  filling  pattern  (total  num- 
ber of  picks) 

MUST   BE  REDUCED 

so  as  to  create  a  check  or  plaid  pat- 
tern in  which  the  filling  arrangement 
is  just  noticeably  longer  in  effect  than 
in  the  warp  pattern,  the  supposition 
being  that  as  checks  or  plaids  are 
worn  they  are  always  observed  at  an 
angle  of  several  degrees,  thereby  in 
a  sense  overcoming  any  reasonable  ex- 
cess in  the  length  of  filling  pattern, 
as  compared  with  that  of  the  warp. 

Osnaburg  is  sometimes  sized  in  the 
finishing,  and  at  other  times  is  not, 
this  point  being  optional  with  the 
manufacturer  in  accordance  with  the 
purpose  for  which  the  cloth  is  intend- 
ed to  be  used.  Generally,  it  is  taken 
from  the  loom,  measured,  run  tnrough 
the  brusher,  and  after  being  lapped  or 
rolled  is  pressed  and  put  in  the  case 
and  shipped. 


Osnaburg. 

pose  wherein  it  must  sustain  rough 
usage.  It  is  occasionally  substituted 
for  canvas  or  duck  in  making  awnings 
for  back  porches  in  northern  cities.  In 
this  case  the  stripe  patterns  are  used. 
The  check  patterns,  "produced  by 
using  the  same  pattern  in  warp  and 
filling,"  are  usually  broad  effects,  be- 
longing, in  fact,  to  the  plaid  order  of 
patterns.  These  checks  measure  from 
one  to  two  inches  either  way. 

WOVEN  WITH  A  PLAIN  LOOM. 

Osnaburg  is  always  woven  with  a 
plain  weave  — j ,  and  in .  the  stripe 
patterns  the  stripe  is  made  with  warp, 
all  white  filling  being  used.  This  line 
can  be  woven  on  any  plain  sheeting 
loom  as  it  requires  but  one  filling  box. 


Construction — 30-inch     Finish. 

Reed,  900 — 33%  inches  in  reed,  in- 
cluding 16  ends  selvage,  two  ends  per 
dent;  l-16s  warp  and  filling;  46  picks 
per  inch  filling;  10  per  cent  take-up; 
1,696  plus  16  equals  1,712  ends  in 
warp.  1,696  divided  by  80  equals  21 
patterns  plus  16  ends  plus  selvage. 

WARP    PATTERN. 
3C   blue 


20   white 

4   blue 
20   white 


-  Filling  same. 


40  ends  blue  per  pattern  x  21  equals 
840  plus  16  equals  856  ends  blue;  40 
ends  white  per  pattern  x  21  equals  840 
plus  16  equals  856  ends  white;  46  picks 
X  331  equals  1,752  yards  filling  equal? 
876  yards  blue,  876  yards  white. 


m 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


856   ends  blue        +    10%   take-up   =  951   yards  l-16s   =   1.135   ounces i -^^^j.^ 
856   ends  white     +    10%   take-up   =  951  yards  l-16s   =   1.135  ounces  J 


76   yards  1-163   =   1.043   ounces  1  •c,i,,ino- 
-     =   1.043  ounces  J  *"""^- 


876  yards  l-16s 


4.356   ounces. 


Brush  and  press. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 
As  the  cloth  under  description  in 
this  issue  is  made  and  used  in  tlie 
South,  it  is  to  a  great  extent  made  only 
in  southern  mills,  and  the  machines 
required  to  produce  this  class  of  yarns 
belong  to  the  first  division  of  mills 
previously  given,  i.  e.,  the  mills  mak- 
ing low  and  medium  count  yarns.  The 
counts  of  the  yarn  required  to  make 
this  class  of  goods  vary  from  l-14s  to 
l-20s  warp  and  filling,  but  for  this 
article  we  will  assume  the  warp  and 
filling  yarns  to  be  l-20s.  These  yarns 
are  made  from  a  short  staple  low- 
grade  cotton  of  about   %-inch  staple. 

THE  MIXINGS 

should  be  as  large  as  possible,  and  the 
mixing  is  generally  done  by  hand  in 
southern  mills.  It  is  run  through  2 
processes  of  picking  and  an  opener 
and  waste  is  sometimes  used  in  the 
mixture,  i.  e.,  card  strips  and  comber 
waste  (when  it  is  possible  to  obtain 
It).  Too  much  waste  should  not  be 
used  because  of  the  trouble  that  it 
gives  on  the  machines  of  the  card 
room,  such  as  licking,  etc. 

THE  HOPPER 

should  be  kept  as  full  as  possible,  so 
that  the  amount  of  cotton  fed  to  the 
opener  will  be  as  uniform  as  possible. 
It  will  be  understood  that  if  the  hop- 
per is  allowed  to  get  almost  empty  be- 
fore filling  it  up  the  lifting  apron  of 
the  hopper  will  not  carry  or  lift  as 
much  cotton  on  its  spikes  and  often- 
times there  will  be  little  or  no  cotton 
presented  to  the  evener  roller.  This  is 
sure  to  produce  an  uneven  lap  at  the 
front  of  the  breaker  picker.  If  on  the 
other  hand  the  hopper  is  always  kept 
full  of  cotton  the  lifting  apron  will  al- 
ways have  a  surplus  of  cotton  on  it, 
this  surplus  being  struck  off  by  the 
evener  and  dropped  back  into  the  hop- 
per again.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that 
to      keep      the    hopper      more    than 


half  full  all  the  time  is  one 
of  the  most  important  points 
of  the  picker  room,  because,  if  you 
have  an  uneven  lap  to  start  with,  you 
will  have  to  make  the  succeeding  ma- 
chines overwork  to  obtain  an  even 
yarn.  The  speeds  of  the  various  parts 
of  the  picker  should  be  about  the  same 
as  given  in  the  last  article  and  the 
weight  of  the  finished  lap  should  be  at 
least  39  pounds  at  the  finisher  picker. 
Always  keep  laps  enough  in  the  card 
room  so  that,  if  an  accident  happens 
to  the  picking  machinery,  the  cards 
will  not  be  stopped  for  laps.  Keep  at 
least  10  per  cent  ahead. 

The  wire  fillet  used  on  the  cards 
should  be  coarse,  that  used  on  the  cyl- 
inder  being 

ONE   NUMBER   COARSER 

than  that  used  on  the  doffer  and  flats. 
A  great  many  mills  in  the  South,  use 
No.  33  wire  on  the  cylinder  and  No. 
34  or  No.  35  on  the  doffer  and  flats. 
On  this  class  of  goods  use  as  large  a 
diameter  doffer  as  possible,  either  a 
26  or  27  inch.  Grind  cards  often  and 
keep  top  flats  sharp,  because  if  the 
flats  are  dull,  good  carding  cannot  be 
obtained.  The  draft  of  the  card  for 
this  class  of  goods  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should 
be  at  least  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The 

WEIGHT  OF  SLIVER 

at  front  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  weight  of 
sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finishing  be- 
ing about  70  grains  per  yard.  The  set- 
tings of  the  drawing  frame  rolls  should 
be  as  follows:  for  yg-inch  stock,  front 
to  second  roll,  1%  inches;  second  to 
third,  1%  inches;  third  to  back,  1% 
to  2  inches.  The  slubber  roving  should 
be  .50  hank. 

Two  processes  of  fly  frames  are 
used,  the  hank  roving  at  the  first  in- 
termediate being  1.50  and  at  the  sec- 
and  4.00  hank.  Always  look  out  for 
bunches  at  the  fly  frames  and  be  sure 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


409 


that  your  steel  rolls  are  set  to  the 
best  advantage.    Keep  your 

TOP    LEATHER   ROLLS 

in  perfect  condition,  and  do  not  run 
one  that  is  cut,  bruised,  uneven  or 
channeled.  See  that  the  traverse 
guides  are  all  working  so  as  not  to 
make  channeled  rolls.  The  cotton  rov- 
ing is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room 
and  here  made  into  the  required  count 
of  yarn.  The  following  are  good  par- 
ticulars to  be  used  on  20s  warp  and 
filling  on  spinning  frames:  warp, 
gauge  of  spindle  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring  11/^  inches,  length  of  traverse 
GYz  inches;  for  filling,  gauge  of  spin- 
dle 23  inches,  diameter  of  ring  iy2 
inches;  length  of  traverse  6%  inches; 
speed  of  spindles  7,250  revolutions  per 
minute.  Use  any  of  the  best  spindles 
on  the  spinning  frame.  The  yarn  is 
taken  to  the  spooler  room,  spooled 
and  then  run  on  a  warp  beam,  thence 
to  the  slasher  where  it  is  sized  and 
then  is  ready  for  weaving  unless  the 
yarn  has  to  be  dyed  before  being  wo- 
ven as  in  the  present  article.  Then 
the  method  differs  somewhat. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

Light  blue  is  dyed  with  the  ordinary 
indigo  blue  vat,  but  as  sulphur  blues 
are  faster  to  exposure  and  washing 
they  are  mostly  dyed. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

1  per  cent  immedial  indone  3B.,  % 
per  cent  immedial  indone  B.,  2  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda, 
20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK   BROWN. 

4  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O.,  6  per 
cent  immedial  brown  A.,  i/^  per  cent 
Immedial  black  NG.,  10  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's. 

SLATE. 
11/^    per  cent  katigen  black   SW.,  2 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  2   per  cent 
soda,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  BS.,  3 
per  cent  sal  soda,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 


LIGHT  ORANGE. 

2  per  cent  immedial  orange  C,  2  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda, 
20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
DRAB. 
1  per  cent  immedial  black  NG.,  1  per 
cent  immedial  brown  A.,  2  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  soda. 

^-^^ 


SHEETING 


Sheeting  is  a  light-weight,  single 
cloth,  composed  of  all-cotton  yarns, 
from  l-18s  to  l-40s  warp  and  filling, 
standard  goods  weighing  2i/^  to  6  yards 
per  pound.  It  is  sold  in  both  the  gray 
and  bleached  state,  the  bleaching  be- 
ing done  after  the  cloth  is  woven. 

Sheeting  is  never  made  in  colors  or 
patterns,  but  always  in  solid  bleach- 
ed or  unbleached  effects,  and  is  woven 
on  any  and  all  single  box  looms,  cot- 
ton harnesses  being  used  in  most 
i  ases. 

Automatic  looms  have  been  used  in 
increasing  quantities  for  the  produc- 
tion of  all  kinds  of  sheeting  fabrics. 
Most  of  these  cloths  contain  rather 
coarse  yarns,  and  are  made  with  a 
plain  weave,  and  this  is  the  field  in 
which  automatic  looms  show  their 
greatest  savings.  In  some  cases  the 
automatic  loom  will  contain  a  hopper 
in  which  quite  a  number  of  filing  bob- 
bins are  placed  and  in  other  cases  a 
magazine  of  shuttles  will  be  noted.  In 
the  first  case  the  bobbin  changes 
whenever  the  filling  breaks,  or  runs 
out,  while  in  the  second  instance  the 
entire  shuttle  is  changed.  As  a  gen- 
eral thing,  manufacturers  in  the 
southern  states  have 
ADOPTED  THE  AUTOMATIC  LOOM 
relatively  much  faster  than  man- 
ufacturers  in  the  northern  states, 
mainly  because  mills  in  the 
South  are  newer  and  could  install 
more  up-to-date  machinery  when  be- 
ing built.  To-day's  prices  for  many 
types  of  sheetings  and  print  cloths  are 
being  made  upon  an  automatic  loom 
basis,  and  for  this  reason  some  man- 
ufacturers are  to-day  finding  it  hard  to 
regularly  obtain  a  reasonable  profit.  It 
would  not  be  surprising  if  such  man- 


410 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


ufacturers  would  ultimately  be  forced 
into  installing  such  machinery  if  they 
are  to  receive  a  profit.  The  range  of 
fabrics  possible  upon  these  looms  has 
widened  greatly  during  the  past  five 
years,  and  many  shirtings  and  what 
would  have  been  considered  quite 
fancy  materials  only  a  short  time  ago 
are  to-day  being  woven  upon  them. 
In  a  number  of  instances  the  auto- 
matic loom  base  is  being  used  togeth- 
er with  the  jacquard  head  motion,  and 
the  results  obtained  seem  highly  de- 
sirable. 

Sheeting  warps  are  all  made  on 

THE   SLASHER, 

there  being  either  four  or  six  beams 
to  a  set,  and  these  are  filled  with  yarn 
run  from  spools  set  in  the  creel  rack  of 
the  warp  mill.  Each  beam  has  a  pro- 
portionate number  of  the  total  warp 
ends,  viz.  2,000  ends,  four  beams, 
equals  500  ends  per  beam.  These  beams 
are  set  in  regular  order  at  the  further 
end  of  the  slasher  frame.  The  total 
warp  ends  are  then  run  through  a  so- 
lution of  size,  and  around  the  hot  cyl- 
inder, and  then  upon  a  beam,  thereby 
sizing  and  beaming  the  warp  at  one 
operation. 

Sheeting  requires  nothing  in  the  way 
of  finishing,  except  being  run  through 
a  plate  folder,  on  which  machine,  hav- 
ing a  brush  attached,  the  cloth  is  at 
once  brushed  and  folded  in  any  de- 
sired length  of  fold. 

36  inches  is  the  standard  width  for 
sheeting. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Always  a  I plain  weave. 

4    square   inches    equal   4.15    grains. 

36  X  36  equals  1,296  x  4.15  equals 
5,378.4  divided  by  4  equals  1,344.6  di- 
vided by  437.5  equals  3.07  ounces  per 
yard. 

30  pieces  yarn  (warp)  x  21/^  inches 
equals  70  inches  equals  .89  grains 
minus  6  per  cent  size  equals  .83  grains. 
70  X  7,000  equals  490,000  divided  by  .83 
equals  590,361  divided  by  36  equals 
16,399  divided  by  840  equals  19.5  or 
l-20s  warp. 

60  pieces  yarn  (filling)  x  li/^  inches 
equals  90  inches  equals  .89  grains.  90 
X  7,000  equals  630,000  divided  by  .89 
equals  707,864  divided  by  36  equals  19,- 


662  divided  by  840  equals  23.41  or  l-24s 
filling. 

48  ends  per  inch  plus  44  picks  per 
inch  equals  44  ends  in  reed  and  42 
picks  in  loom. 

Reed  800—2  ends  per  dent,  38 
inches,  including  16  ends  selvage,  6 
per  cent  size  on  warp  10  per  cent  take- 
up  on  warp,  5y2  per  cent  contraction 
in  width. 

1,728  plus  16  equals  1,744  ends  plus 
10  per  cent  take-up  equals  1,937  yards, 
l-20s  warp  equals  1.83  ounces;  42 
picks  X  38  equals  1,586  yards,  l-24s 
filling  equals  1.25  ounces;  total  3.08 
ounces. 

Standard  grades  equal  36  inches 
wide. 

52  ends,  52  picks,  l-20s  cotton  warp 
and  filling;  6  per  cent  size,  514  per 
cent  shrinkage  in  width  in  weaving; 
38  inches  in  reed;  4.10  yards  per 
pound. 

64  ends,  64  picks,  l-32s  warp,  l-40s 
filling;  6  per  cent  size,  5i/^  per  cent 
shrinkage  in  width  in  weaving;  38 
inches  in  reed;   5.86  yards  per  pound. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  the  yarns  used  in 
making    sheetings    vary    in    different 

■C'BDBDaa 
amamrzmam 

mouamDma 
;  ■  ■  man 
m jBDBDaa 

mamamaua 

Plain  Weave 


□■naaana 

aoBDaaaa 

Drawing-iD  Draft 

Gnaanaaa 
■a  DaaDD 

R«ed  Plan 


parts  of  the  country  in  different  mills 
and  even  in  the  same  mill  two  grades 
of  sheetings  are  sometimes  made. 
The  mills  that  make  sheetings  may 
belong  to  any  one  of  the  three  divi- 
sions as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
In  this  article  we  will  consider  the 
sheetings  in  two  grades,  the  first  be- 
ing made  up  of  18s  warp  and  the  finer 
grade  made  up  of  40s  warp  and  fill- 
ing.   The  first  or 

COARSE  GRADES  OF  SHEETINGS 
are  made  in  the  first  division  of  mills 
and  the  staple  of  cotton  used  would 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


411 


be  about  one  inch  in  diameter.  The 
mixing  would  in  most  cases  be  per- 
formed by  hand  and  should  be  as  large 
as  possible.  It  would  be  put  through 
two  processes  of  picking,  first  being 
run  through  an  opener.  The  speeds 
of  the  various  parts  on  the  machines 
in  tnis  room  would  be  as  follows: 
Speed  of  beater  on  openers,.  1,050  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  fan,  350;  speed  of 
beater  on  breaker  picker,  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  speed  of  fan  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute;  speed  of 
beater  on  finisher  picker,  1,450  revo- 
lutions per  minute;  speed  of  fan,  1,100 
revolutions  per  minute.      The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

at  the  different  machines  for  tliis 
class  of  goods  would  be  as  follows: 
At  the  front  of  the  breaker  picker,  40 
pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard;  at 
the  front  of  the  finisher  picker,  39 
pounds  or  14%  ounces  to  the  yard. 
Always  keep  the  hopper  of  the  opener 
full.  The  above  speeds  and  number 
of  processes  could  also  be  used  for 
fine  sheetings,  using  40s  yarn  with 
the  following  exceptions:  Instead  of 
being  mixed  by  hand,  a  bale  breaker 
and  conveying  trunks  would  be  used, 
and  the  staple  of  cotton  would  be 
about  li  inches.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  breaker  would  be  about  the 
same,  but  at  the  finisher  picker  would 
be  less  or  about  35  pounds  for  the  to- 
tal weight  of  lap  or  12 1/^  ounces  to  the 
yard.  Always  have  laps  of  both 
classes  uniform  in  weight,  and  if  the 
laps  vary  one-half  a  pound  in  either 
direction  from  standard  weight,  they 
should  be  set  aside  and  put  back  into 
mixing.  Use  cut  roving  in  the  mixing, 
mixing  it  as  shown  in  a  previous  arti- 
cle. Double  four  into  one  in  the  picker 
room.     The 

SETTINGS  FOR  THE  CARD 
for  the  coarse  sheetings  should  be 
wide,  because  of  the  large  weight  of 
cotton  lap  being  passed  through,  and 
coarse  wire  should  be  used,  33  on  the 
cylinder  and  34  on  tops  and  doffer. 
The  drafts  should  not  exceed  100  and 
the  production  should  be  about  900 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours,  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  being  65  grains  to 
the  yard.    The  settings   for  the   finer 


sheetings  at  the  card  should  be  closer 
and  a  fine  wire  fillet  should  be  used. 
The  draft  of  the  card  should  not  be 
less  than  100  and  the  production 
should  not  exceed  600  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hoiirs.  Grind  cards  and  tops  as 
often  as  possible  and  strip  three  times 
a  day  on  both  grades  of  sheetings.  Go 
over  the  settings  after  each  grinding 
and  keep  cards  clean. 

The    coarser    grade    of    sheeting    is 
put   through 

TWO   PROCESSES    OF   DRAWING, 

the  weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver  at  the 
front  being  70  grains  per  yard,  the 
doublings  being  six  into  one  and  the 
speed  of  the  front  roll  400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  finer  grade  of  sheet- 
ing is  put  through  three  processes 
of  drawing,  the  other  particulars  be- 
ing the  same,  excepting  the  settings, 
which  are  wider.  Good  settings  are 
as  follows:  For  one-inch  stock,  front 
to  second  roll,  1|  inches;  second  to 
third  roll,  1^^  inches;  third  to  back 
roll,  11/^  inches;  for  li-inch  stock, 
from  front  to  second,  11,4  inches;  sec- 
ond to  third,  If  inches;  third  to  back, 
11  inches.  Keep  bottom  steel  rolls 
clean,  and  top  leather  rolls  should  al- 
ways be  in  perfect  condition.  Var- 
nish those  rolls  at  regular  intervals 
and  always  keep  a  supply  of  extra 
varnished  rolls  on  hand,  so  that  im- 
perfect rolls  may  be  taken  out  at  any 
time  and  replaced  by  rolls  in  good 
condition.  The  hank  of  the  roving  at 
the  front  of  the  slubber  should  be  .55 
to  .50  in  each  case.  The  coarser 
sheeting  yarn  has  to  be  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
at  the  first  intermediate  being  1.50 
and  at  the  second   5  hank. 

THE  ROVING 
for  making  the  finer  sheeting  passes 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames, 
the  hank  roving  at  the  different  proc- 
esses being  as  follows:  First  inter- 
mediate, 1.50;  second  intermediate,  4, 
and  fly  frame,  10.  The  roving  for  both 
grades  of  sheeting  is  spun  into  yarn 
on  the  ring  spinning  frame.  The  par- 
ticulars for  a  warp  frame  for  spinning 
18s  being  No.  4  Draper,  McMullen  or 
Whitin  spindle;  gauge  of  frame,  2i 
inches;    diameter  of  ring,   27   inches; 


412 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


traverse,  7  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
9,400  revolutions  per  minute,  turning 
off  about  21^  pounds  per  spindle  per 
week  of  60  hours.  For  a  warp  frame 
making  40s  yarn,  use  No.  2  Draper, 
McMullen  or  Whitin  spindle;  gauge  of 
frame,  2^  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  traverse,  6%  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute,  producing  about  .95 
pounds  per  spindle  per  week  of  60 
hours.  The  warp  yarn  is  spooled  and 
warped  and  run  through  the  slasher. 
A   good 

SIZE   MIXTURE 

for  18s  yarn,  one  set  of  beams,  1,500  to 
2,000  pounds,  is  as  follows:  160  gallons 
of  water,  100  pounds  starch,  20  to  40 
pounds  sizing  (according  to  make),  2 
to  8  pounds  tallow,  according  to  re- 
sults. For  68  X  68  heavy  sheetings, 
with  22s  warp  yarn,  use  100  gallons 
water,  70  pounds  potato  starch,  4 
pounds  tallow  and  1  pint  of  turpentine. 


CHEVIOT  SHIRTING 

Cheviot  shirting  is  a  narrow,  all-cot- 
ton fabric,  weighing  from  four  to  five 
ounces  per  yard  of  27  inches  width 
finished  and  is  composed  of  single  or 
double  ends  in  the  warp  and  single 
filling.  The  effect  of  the  double  ends 
is  entirely  different  from  that  pro- 
duced by  a  two-ply  thread,  and  is 
really  meant  to  create  a  rib' weave  ef- 
fect. 

This  fabric  is  made  of  cotton  yarns, 
from  l-16s  to  l-22s  in  the  warp  and 
filling,  and  the  cloth  contains  from  40 
to  46  double  ends  per  inch  in  warp  and 
36  to  40  picks  per  inch  in  the  filling. 
Another  grade  is  made  by  weaving  36 
to  62  single  ends  per  inch  in  the  cloth, 
and  19  to  52  picks  per  inch  in  the  fill- 
ing finished. 

BY  THE  FIRST  METHOD 

there  is  produced  a  cloth  that  is  at 
once  stout  and  pliable,  and  having  ex- 
cellent wearing  qualities.  This  cloth 
is  used  principally  in  the  manufacture 
of  shirts  and  mock  shirts  for  the  use 
of  workmen  accustomed  to  rough,  dirty 
work,  such  as  miners  and  railroad 
men,    and    those    similarly    employed. 


It  is  made  in  stripe  pattern,  usually 
of  the  darker  tones  of  fast  colors,  such 
as  dark  blue,  dark  brown,  etc.,  in  the 
warp,  and  filling  to  match.  In  these 
warp  stripe  patterns  the  dark  colors 
form  the  body  or  ground  of  the  pattern 
and  the  v/hite  warp  forms  but  a  nar- 
row pin  stripe  in  the  cloth.  Then 
there  are  the  light  patterns,  in  which 
nearly  all  the  bright  colors  are  used, 
such  as  light  blue,  orange,  red,  light 
green,  etc.  In  this  case  the  body  or 
ground  of  the  cloth  is  formed  by  the 
white  warp,  and  the  bright  color  form? 
the  pin  stripe  in  the  cloth.  Print  yams 
are  occasionally  introduced  in  the  light 
colored  patterns  to  create  mixed  color 
effects.  The  filling  in  the  light  pat- 
terns is  always  white.  In  making 
cheviot  shirting  there  is  rather 

A  HEAVY  SIZE 
placed  upon  the  warp  yarn.  This  per- 
mits of  the  cloth  retaining  quite  a 
percentage  of  size  after  weaving,  and 
as  this  fabric  receives  nothing  but 
sprinkling  and  pressing  after  leaving 
the  loom,  the  excessive  amount  of  size 
gives  the  fabric  a  better  cover,  feel, 
and  apparent  bulk,  which  is  its  most 
distinguishing  feature  as  a  material 
for  workmen's  shirts. 

Cheviot  shirting  can  be  woven  upon 
any  plain  loom,  either  single  or  double 
box.  It  is  generally  drawn  in  and  wo- 
ven on  4  harnesses  so  as  not  to  crowd 
the  heddles  in  weaving,  as  would  be 
the  case  if  but  2  harnesses  were  used. 
Most  all  cheviot  shirting  is  woven  with 
a  plain   weave,  although  sometimes  a 

- warp  effect,  45  degree  twill  weave, 

is  used. 

CHEVIOT  SHIRTING. 

1  square  inch  equals  1.83  grains.  2Y 
x36  equals  972x1.83  equals  1,778.76  di- 
vided by  1  square  inch  equals  1,778,- 
.76  divided  by  437.5  equals  4.065  ounces 
per  yard. 

44  pieces  white  Tvarp  yarn  x  i^  inch 
long  equals  22  inches  equals  .35  grains. 
.35  grains  minus  10  per  cent  size  on 
warp  equals  .315  grains.  22x7,000 
equals  154,000  divided  by  .315  equals 
48,888  divided  by  36  equals  1,357  divid- 
ed by  840  equals  l-16s  cotton. 

110  pieces  blue  warp  yarn  x  %  inch 
long  equals  55  inches  equals  .9  grains. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


413 


.9  grains  minus  10  per  cent  size  on 
warp  equals  .81  grains.  55x7,000 
equals  385,000  divided  by  .81  equals 
475,308  divided  by  36  equals  13,203  di- 
vided by  840  equals  15.71  or  l-16s  cot- 
ton. 

15  pieces  blue  filling  yarn  x  2  inches 
long  equals  30  inches  equals  .45  grains. 
30x7,000  equals  210,000  divided  by  .45 
equals  466,666  divided  by  36  equals  12,- 
962.8  divided  by  840  equals  15.43  or  1- 
16s  cotton. 

CONSTRUCTION, 

Reed,  700,  4  ends  per  dent;  28i/^ 
inches  in  reed  including  selvage. 

532  plus  10  equals  542  splits  or  2,168 
ends;  l-16s  cotton  warp  yam. 

38  picks  per  inch;  l-16s  blue  cotton 
filling  yam. 

10  per  cent  size  on  warp;  5^4  per 
cent  contraction  in  width  in  weaving. 


Inches  equals  1,083  yards  equals  1.265 
ounces;  total  4.067  ounces. 

4.067  ounces  per  yard,  27  inches  wide 
finished. 


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WARP  PATTERN. 
8   blue. 
2  white. 
2   blue. 
2  white. 

14   ends    per   pattern. 

8  per  cent  take-up  in  length  of  warp 
in  weaving. 

Finish  equals  sprinkle  and  press 
equals  27  inches  finished  width. 

Plain  weave,  warp  drawn  in  on  4 
harnesses. 

2,128  ends  in  warp  divided  by  14 
equals  152  repeats  in  pattern.  10  blue 
ends  per  pattern  x  152  equals  l,52u 
plus  40  ends  blue  selvage  equals  1,560 
ends,  l-16s  blue  warp  yarn.  4  white 
ends  per  pattern  x  152  equals  608  ends, 
l-16s  white  warp  yarn. 

1,560  ends,  l-16s  blue  warp  yarn  plus 
8  per  cent  take-up  equals  1,695  yards 
equals  2.017  ounces.  608  ends,  l-16s 
white  warp  yarn  plus  8  per  cent  take- 
up  equals  660  yards  equals  .785  ounces. 
38  picks,  l-16s  blue  filling  yarn  x  28 ^^ 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  hich  make  the  counts  of 
yarn  required  for  cheviots  belong  to 
the  second  division,  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  This  is  one  of  the  coars- 
er yarns  made  in  this  division  and  is 
manufactured  from  stock  of  about  1 
inch  in  staple.  The  mixings  should  be 
as  large  as  possible  and  are  generally 
done  by  hand,  although  this  division 
of  mills  is  generally  equipped  with  a 
bale  breaker.  Of  course,  if  the  bale 
breaker  is  not  too  hard  pushed  or  is 
stopped  on  account  of  all  the  other 
bins  of  better  grades  of  cotton  being 
full,  then  the  raw  stock  for  this  class 
of  goods  will  be  run  through  the  bale 
breaker.  The  bale  breaker  is  capable 
of  handling  80,000  to  90,000  pounds 
per  week  and  requires  about  2  iron 
horse  power  to  drive  it. 

IF  FLOOR  SPACE  IS  AVAILABLE 
two  mixing  bins  should  be  used  instead 
of  one  for  reasons  before  stated.  The 
cotton,  after  being  dried  out,  should 
be  run  through  two  processes  of  pick- 
ing and  an  opener.  Keep  the  hopper 
of  the  opener  as  near  full  as  possible 
to  make  an  even  lap  at  the  front.  Keep 
the  pin  roller  of  the  opener  clear  of 
all  cotton,  so  that  it  may  be  able  to  do 
its  duty.  On  some  makes  this  roller 
is  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  which  is 
caused  by  the  cotton  adhering  to  it 
and  winding  around  it  until  it  does  not 
strike  the  cotton  from  the  lifting  apron 
properly.  This  is  especially  true  when 
sliver  waste  (from  all  machines  which 
make  sliver)  is  mixed  in  with  the  raw 
stock  at  the  bins  (as  is  customary). 
The  speed  of  the  opener  beater  for 
this  class  of  cotton  should  be  1,100  re- 
volutions per  minute.  The  speed  of 
the  breaker  beater  should  not  exceed 
1,500   revolutions   per  minute. 

THE  WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  should  be  about  40  pounds 
or  16  ounces  to  the  yard  of  lap.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  the  drafts  on 
both  the  breaker  and  finisher  pickers 
are  regulated  to  the  best  advantage  so 


414 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


as  to  obtain  a  smooth,  firm,  even  lap 
at  the  front.  To  do  this  the  draft  is 
directed  so  that  the  cotton,  after  being 
tcted  upon  by  tlie  beater,  is  blown  on 
the  top  cage.  The  laps  made  at  the 
breaker  are  put  up  at  the  back  of  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  finisher  picker  beater 
should  be  1,4.50  revolutions  per  minute, 
which  gives  this  grade  and  staple  of 
cotton  passing  by  it  about  42  beats  to 
the  inch.  The  weight  of  the  total  lap 
at  the  front  should  be  about  39  pounds, 
which  gives  what  is  known  as  a  HVz- 
ounce  (to  the  yard)  lap. 

OILING. 

Take  care  to  oil  all  rapidly  moving 
parts  cf  the  pickers  at  regular  and  fre- 
quent intervals  and  keep  all  fly  from 
collecting  under  these  machines.  See 
that  the  pickers  are  properly  cleaning 
the  cotton,  and  don't  nake  the  card  do 
the  picker's  work.  The  laps  from  the 
finisher  picker  are  put  up  at  the  back 
of  the  card,  the  drait  of  which  (for 
this  class  of  goods)  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  wire  fillet  used  should  also 
be  not  too  coarse.  Always  keep  an  eye 
on  the  settings  and  watch  the  flat 
waste,  because  from  the  appearance  of 
this  w:.ste  we  are  able  to  tell  whether 
the  cotton  is  being  properly  carded  or 
not. 

THE  SLIVER 

should  weigh  about  65  gram>s  per  yard 
and  the  production  should  be  around 
900  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
Keep  card  wire  sharp.  The  sliver  is 
next  run  through  3  processes  of  draw- 
ing, the  doubling  being  6  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  finisher  drawing  should 
be  about  70  grains.  The  slubber  rov- 
ing should  be  about  .50  hank  and  there 
should  be  two  processes  of  fly  frames. 
The  roving  at  the  first  intermediate 
should  be  1.50  and  at  the  second  ei- 
ther 4  or  4.50,  according  to  whether 
warp  or  filling  yarn  is  to  be  made 
from  it,  the  fine  hank  being  made  into 
22s  filling  yarn  and  the  coarser  hank 
roving  bein?  made  into  16s  warp  yarn. 
The  yarn  for  this  class  of  goods  is 
spun  on  a  ring  spinning  frame, 
the  particulars  of  which  are  as  fol- 
lows: For  warp  frame  spinning  16s 
use  McMullen,  Whitin  or  Draper  No. 


4  spindle;  gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  2  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  7  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
9,400  revolutions  per  minute;  for  fill- 
ing frame  making  22s,  spindle  as  above 
except- No.  2  Draper;  gauge  of  spindle, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  li/^  in- 
ches; length  of  traverse,  6i/^  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  7,400  revolutions  per 
Binute. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
Following  are  good  formulas  for  the 
colors   used   in    dyeing  cheviot   shirt- 
mgs: 

LIGHT  GREEN. 


per 


2  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  4 
cent  immedial  indone  3  B;  5  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 

ORANGE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  orange  C ;  4  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  indone  3  B;  3 
per  cent  immedial  indone  R;  2  per 
cent  immedial  indone  B;  11  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK   BROWN. 

2  per  cent  thion  black  B;  8  per  cent 
thion  brown  G;  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

2  per  cent  thion  black  B;  2  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  scarlet  4  BS;  3 
per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 

1  per  cent  chloramine  yellow  M;  3 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

SALMON. 

Vz  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


415 


OLIVE. 

5  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  N;   5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
BLACK. 

15  per  cent  katigen  black  S  W;  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

After  dyeing,  all  of  the  colors  men- 
tioned must  be  well  rinsed  with  three 
waters.  A  light  soaping  at  the  boil 
must  then  be  given,  followed  by  an- 
other rinsing.  The  colors  will  be  fast 
to  washing  and  will  not  bleed  into 
each  other. 


NOVELTY  DRESS  GOODS 

Novelty  dress  goods  is  a  light- 
weight single  cloth  fabric,  made  from 
single  and  two-ply  cotton  yarns  in 
both  warp  and  filling,  and  is  woven  in 
large  and  small  plaids,  also  solid 
colors.  The  distinct  feature  of  tbis 
fabric  is  the  prominence  given 
the  heavy  yarns,  which  are  always 
woven  with  a  fancy  weave  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  an  all-over  effect 
in  imitation  of  a  jacquard  pattern.  The 
ground  or  body  of  the  cloth  is  usually 
woven   with  a  plain  weave,  ^ — ^ . 

In  the  better  grades  of  novelty 
dress  goods,  merino  and  silkaline 
yarns  are  often  used.  In  making  this 
class  of  goods  it  is  sometimes  neces- 
sary to  use  two  beams  in  weaving,  as 
the  difference  of  take-up  in  the 
ground  and  fancy  yarns  will  not  per- 
mit of  one  beam  being  used. 

Novelty  dress  goods  are  made  to 
weigb  from  3  to  5  ounces  per  yard; 
generally  l-20s  to  l-30s  cotton  ground 
warp  and  filling  yarns,  and  2-20s  to 
2-40s,  and  l-8s  to  l-12s  yarns  are  used 
to  produce  overplaided  or  novelty 
weave  effects. 

This  fabric  is  made  in  all  dress 
goods  colors  and  goods  patterns  pro- 
duced by  using  dark  green,  brown 
dark  or  cherry  red,  navy  blue,  etc.,  for 
ground  color  and  crossing  these  with 
black. 

Cotton  novelty  goods  can  be  woven 
in  any  power  loom  having  a  box  mo- 
tion and  dobby  or  head  motion  at- 
tached. 


To  finish  these  goods  they  are  meas- 
ured, then  brushed  and  run  through 
a  steam  box  to  liven  the  colors,  after 
which  they  are  rolled  and  pressed, 
ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27  incbes  finished. 

4  square  inches  equals  5.7  grains.  27 
X  36  equals  972  x  5.7  equals  5,504.4  di- 
vided by  4  equals  1,385  divided  by  437.5 
equals  3.165  ounces  per  yard. 

20  pieces  black  warp  yarn  x  2  inches 
equals  40  inches  equals  1  grain.    40  x 


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7,000  equals  280,000  divided  by  1  equals 
280,000  divided  by  36  equals  7,777  di- 
vided by  840  equals  2-20  black  warp. 

38  pieces  brown  warp  yarn  x  2 
inches  equals  76  inches  equals  .92 
grains.  76  x  7,000  equals  532,000  di- 
vided by  .92  equals  578,260  divided  by 
36  equals  16,062  divided  by  840  equals 
1-20  brown  warp. 

12  pieces  white  warp  yarn  x  2  inches 
equals  24  inches  equals  .27  grains.  27 
X  7,000  equals  168,000  divided  by  .27 
equals  622,222  divided  by  36  equals  17,- 
284  divided  by  840  equals  1-20  white 
warp. 

24  pieces  black  filling  yarn  x  3 
inches  equals  72  inches  equals  1.45 
grains.  72  x  7,000  equals  504,000  di- 
vided by  1.45  equals  347,586.2  divided 
by  36  equals  9,655.17  divided  by  840 
equals  1-12  black  filling. 


416 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


17  pieces  brown  filling  yarn  x  3 
inches  equals  51  inches  equals  .5 
grains. 

51  X  7,000  equals  357,000  divided  by 
.5  equals  7,140,000  divided  by  36  equals 
198,333  divided  by  840  equals  1-24 
brown. 

12  pieces  white  filling  yarn  x  3 
inches  equals  36  inches  equals  .35 
grains.  36  x  7,000  equals  252,000  di- 
vided by  .35  equals  7,200,000  divided 
by  36  equals  200,000  divided  by  840 
equals  1-24  white  filling. 

50  ends  per  inch  finished  and  48 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  44  ends 
per  inch  in  reed  and  43  picks  per  inch 
in  loom. 

10  per  cent  take-up  on  white  and 
brown  warp,  2  per  cent  on  black  warp. 


WARP   PATTERN. 
4   Brown 
2  White 
4   Brown 
4   Black 


Filling   same. 


32  ends  white  selvage. 

Reed  800 — 2  ends  per  dent. 

30%  inches  in  reed,  including  sel- 
vage. 

95  repeats  of  pattern  plus  4  ends. 

1,334  ends  plus  32  ends  selvage.  8 
brown  per  pat.  x  95  patterns  equals 
760  plus  4  equals  764  plus  10  per  cent 
take-up  equals  848.88  yards  1-20 
equals  .8084  ounces.  4  black  per  pat.  x 
95  patterns  equals  380  plus  10  per  cent 
take-up  equals  400.00  yards  2-20  equals 
.7619  ounces.  2  white  per  pat.  x  95 
patterns  equals  190  plus  10  per  cent 
take-up  equals  211.11  yards  1-20 
equals  .2010  ounces.  32  white  selvage 
plus  15  per  cent  take-up  equals  37.64 
yards  1-20  equals  .0358  ounces.  Total 
warp  weight,  1.8071  ounces. 

8-14  of  filling  equals  brown  or  740.- 
56  yards  1-24  equals  .5877  ounces.  4-14 
of  filling  equals  black  or  370.28  yards 
1-12  equals  .5877  ounces.  2-14  of  filling 
equals  white  or  185.14  yards  1-24 
equals  .1469  ounces.    Total  3.1294. 

3.1294  ounces  finished,  27  inches 
wide. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulaps. 

The  yarns  for  novelty  dress  goods 
would  probably  be  made  in  mills  of 
the  second  division.  For  this  class  of 
goods  three  or  more  different  counts 


of  yarns  are  generally  used,  the  counts 
varying  from  4s  to  40s,  the  medium 
yarn  being  from  20s  to  30s.  For  the 
cloth  under  description  we  will  con- 
sider that  the  yarns  used  are  as  fol- 
lows: 8s,  to  produce  one  effect  and 
2-20s  another,  both  of  these  yarns  be- 
ing used  on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  and 
l-30s  for  the  ground  warp  and  filling 
yarns.  In  some  mills  it  is  the  custom 
to  make  all  these  counts  of  yarns  from 
one  staple  and  grade  of  cotton  to  save 
time  and  to  reduce  the  number  of  mix- 
ings in  order  that  the  cotton  may  pass 
up  to  a  certain  point  on  the  same  ma- 
chines, the  only  difference  being  that 
the  finer  yarns  are  run  through  one 
more  process  of  fly  frames.  While 
this  undoubtedly  saves  time  and  ma- 
chines and  may  be  done  when  the 
counts  of  yarn  used  in  the  cloth  do 
not  vary  a  great  deal,  still  it  is  gener- 
ally the  case  to  have  two  or  even 
three  different  mixtures,  one  for  the 
very  coarse,  one  for  the  medium  and 
one  for  the  fine  yarns.  In  this  lesson 
we  will  consider  that  there  are 

TWO   MIXINGS, 

or  in  other  words,  two  grades  and 
staples  of  raw  stock  used,  one  for  the 
8s  and  another  mixing  for  the  20s  to 
30s  yarn.  For  8s  yarn  the  staple  of 
the  raw  stock  should  be  from  I  to  1 
Inch  in  length  and  for  the  finer  counts, 
cotton  of  from  1  to  IVw  inch  staple 
may  be  used.  The  l-inch  stock  would 
probably  be  mixed  by  hand,  i.  e.,  taken 
from  the  bale  and  pulled  into  small 
bunches  and  spread  in  the  mixing  bin 
by  the  help.  In  this  mixture  all  good 
waste  of  the  same  length  of  staple  Is 
used,  the  roving  waste  being  treated, 
as  previously  mentioned;  sometimes, 
but  not  often,  comber  waste  is  used, 
but  a  large  percentage  should  not  be 
used. 

FOR  THE  FINER  COUNTS 

the  raw  stock  would  be  run  through 
a  bale  breaker  or,  if  no  bale  breaker 
was  in  the  mill  equipment,  then  the 
cotton  would  be  mixed  by  hand  the 
same  as  cotton  for  the  coarser  counts 
except  that  no  comber  waste  would  be 
used.  Two  processes  of  picking  and 
an  opener  would  be  used  with  both 
processes.  All  the  points  in  connection 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


417 


with  the  opener  given  in  former  ar- 
ticles should  be  carefully  observed; 
the  speed  of  the  fan  of  the  breaker 
should/  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  for  both  stocks  and  the  weight 
of  the  laps  40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to 
the  yard.  The  speed  of  the  fan  at  the 
finisher  picker  should  be  a  little  less 
than  at  the  breaker  picker  and  the 
speed  of  the  fan  about  1,100  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  gives  the  cot- 
ton passing  under  the  action  of  the 
beater  about  42  beats  or  blows  per 
inch.  The  weight  of  the  lap  of  the 
i-inch  stock  should  be  39  pounds  or 
14  ounces  to  the  yard,  and  for  the 
finer  counts  of  yarn,  35  pounds  or  12% 
ounces  to  the  yard.    The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 

for  the  coarser  count  should  not  ex- 
ceed 100  and  for  the  finer  count  should 
not  be  less  than  100.  The  same  size 
of  wire  fillet  may  be  used  for  both 
grades  or,  generally  speaking,  No.  33 
wire  fillet  for  cylinder  and  No.  34  wire 
fillet  for  doffer  and  top  fiats.  The 
main  points  of  difference  would  be  in 
the  setting  of  the  card  for  the  dif- 
ferent stocks,  the  longer  staple  of  cot- 
ton requiring  the  closer  settings,  the 
production  for  the  i-inch  stock  being 
900  pounds  and  for  the  IVm  inch 
stock  from  750  to  800  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  The  doffer  of  the  card 
should  be  as  large  as  possible  in  both 
cases,  either  26  or  27  inch  diameter. 
Keep 

THE  CARD  WIRE 

sharp  and  be  sure  that  the  wire  on  the 
fiats  is  of  uniform  length,  because,  if 
this  is  not  the  case,  bad  work  is  bound 
to  result  on  account  of  the  fact  that 
even  settings  of  the  fiats  with  the  cyl- 
inder cannot  be  obtained.  The  weight 
per  yard  of  the  sliver  would  be  the 
same  in  both  cottons,  or  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  %-inch  stock  would  be  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing 
and  the  longer  staple  three  processes, 
doubled  6  into  1  in  both  cases.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  would  be  the  same,  or  72 
grains  per  yard.  The  same  hank  rov- 
ing would  be  made  at  the  slubber,  or 
.55     hank,     although       the       settings 


of  the  rolls  of  both  of  the 
last  named  processes  would  be  differ- 
ent. Only  one  process  of  draw- 
ing would  be  used  on  the  i- 
inch  stock  and  at  the  fiy  frame  it 
would  be  made  into  1  hank  roving  and 
from  here  passed  to  the  spinning  room. 
For  the  VAa  inch  stock  two  proc- 
esses would  be  used.  At  the  first  in- 
termediate the  slubber  roving  would 
be  made  into  2  hank  roving  and  at 
the  second  the  roving  for  20s  count 
yarn  would  be  made  into  4  hank  and 
for  the  30s  count  would  be  made  into 
6  hank.  The  roving  would  then  be 
taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM, 

where  the  required  count  would  be 
spun.  The  particulars  for  a  warp 
frame  making  20s  yarn  have  been  giv- 
en in  a  previous  lesson;  for  a  warp 
frame  making  8s,  the  following  par- 
ticulars may  b.e  used;  any  high-grade 
spindle,  length  or  traverse,  7  inch, 
gauge  of  spindle,  314  inches,  diameter 
of  ring,  2%  inches,  speed  of  spindle, 
8,100  revolutions  per  minute.  For  a 
warp  frame  making  30s  use  gauge  of 
spindle,  2|  inches,  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches,  length  of  traverse,  6  inches, 
spe&d  of  spindle,  9,800  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  dyed.  For  some  of  the  ef- 
fects produced  in  this  class  of  goods 
two  yarns  of  different  colors  are  twist- 
ed together;  for  this  a  machine  known 
as  a  twister  is  used,  one  thread  of 
each  color  being  twisted  togiethey. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
DARK   GREEN. 
4  per  cent  tetrazo  brilliant  green  J; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

RED. 
4  per  cent  tetrazo  fast  red  4  B;   30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  so- 
da. 

LIGHT    SKY   BLUE. 
1  per  cent  tetrazo  blue   6  B  new;  26 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  so- 
da. 

WINE. 
3   per  cent  tetrazo  corinth;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


418 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


DARK  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  blue  B  X;  30  per 

cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK   BROWN. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo   dark  brown;    Vz 

per  cent  tetrazo  black  brown;   30  per 

cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LILAC. 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  lilac  B; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT   SLATE. 
1/4  per  cent  tetrazo  black  N;   V4,  per 
cent  tetrazo  brilliant  blue  B  B;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glauber's. 
DARK    SLATE. 
11/^  per  cent  tetrazo  black  N ;  %  per 
cent  tetrazo  blue  3  B;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
OLIVE. 
%  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 

3  per  cent  diamine  bronze  G;    2   per 
cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BLACK. 
5   per  cent  tetrazo  black  N;    3   per 
cent  sal  soda;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
NAVY  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  blue  B  X;  14  per 
cent  tetrazo  blue  4  R;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

The  above  colors  are  for  first  baths, 
for  a  standing  bath.  One-third  of  the 
color  can  be  taken  away  from  these 
amounts.  After  dyeing,  yarn  must  be 
well  rinsed  in  water. 


DRILL 


Cotton  drill  is  a  medium-weight 
single  cloth,  weighing  from  4  to  6 
ounces  and  composed  of  coarse  all-cot- 
ton yarns,  warp  and  filling.  It  is  al- 
ways made  with  a  small  uneven  sided 
twill  weave,  generally  - — ^  (warp  ef- 
fect) twill  weave. 

Drill  is  sometimes  made  from  yarns 
in  the  gray  and  afterwards  dyed  in 
the  piece,  or  in  solid  warp  color  ef- 
fects, such  as  indigo  blue  and  dark 
brown,  white  filling  being  used  in  each 
instance. 

It  can  be  woven  In  any  single  box 
loom,   and   is   usually   drawn   in    and 


woven  on  cotton  harness,  as  these  are 
light  in  weight  and  wear  better  than 
wire  heddles  for  this  style  of  cotton 
goods. 

Drills  are  often  made  upon  the  au- 
tomatic loom  because  simple  weaves 
such  as  are  used  on  drills  show  just 
about  as  good  results  as  when  plain 
weave  cloth  is  being  manufactured, 
Whenever  a  heavy  fabric  is  being 
made,  it  naturally  follows  that  the 
loom  is  af  a  heavier  character  than 
when  a  light  fabric  is  to  be  made, 
therefore,  on  drills  the  looms  are 
likely  to  be  heavier  than  where  a  light 
plain  fabric  is  being  woven. 

THE  WARP 
is  beamed  on  the  slasher,  the  warp 
proper  being  divided  into  a  certain 
number  of  sections,  in  accordance  with 
the  number  of  ends  to  be  used  in  the 
drill  warp.  These  s^ections  are  beamed 
on  the  warp  mill,  the  yarn  being  run 
on  to  the  beam  from  the  spools  in  the 
creel  rack.  The  several  section  beams, 
when  completed  in  the  warp  mill,  are 
assembled  in  the  beam  rack  at  the  end 
of  the  slasher  and  the  yarn  from  each 
beam  is  run  through  the  size  tub  and 
over  the  drying  cylinder  of  the  slash- 
er at  the  same  time,  on  to  the  slash- 
er beam,  thus  making  a  complete  warp, 
the  sizing  and  beaming  being  done  at 
one  operation. 

Slasher  warps  do  not  have  a  lease 
in  them,  the  yarn  being  kept  nearly 
straight  in  place  by  the  use  of  a  slash- 
er comb,  which  is,  in  fact,  a  shallow 
reed  having  one  open  side.  The  comb 
is  pressed  through  the  threads,  while 
they  are  spread  taut  in  the  slasher 
frame  and  a  wooden  cap  is  then  fast- 
ened upon  the  open  side  of  the  slasher 
comb,  thereby  holding  the  yarn  in 
place  for  the  operation  of  drawing  in. 

The  drawing  in  is  performed  by 
girls,  without  the  aid  of  a  hander  In, 
as  is  the  case  when  pattern  warps  are 
drawn  in  from  a  lease. 

The  drawer-in  for  drill  uses  a  three- 
bladed  hook  (a  blade  for  each  harness) 
and  the  harnesses  or  heddles  are  hung 
upon  a  rack  immediately  in  front  of 
the  beamed  warp.  The  drawer  in,  if 
experienced,  will  pick  out  three  hed- 
dles and  three  ends  at  one  time,  and 
continue  to  do  so  until  the  total  warp 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


419 


tnds   are    threaded   through   the   har- 
nesses or  heddles. 

To  finish  colored  drill,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 
the  brusher  to  remove  all  lint  and 
waste  threads,  after  which  they  are 
put  through  the  size  tubs  and  then  dry 
pressed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4  square  inches  equals  9.95  grains. 
30x36  equals  1,080x9.95  equals  10,748 
divided  by  4  equals  2,686.5  divided  by 
437.5  equals  6.14  ounees  per  yard  fia- 
ished. 

30  pieces  blue  warp  x  2i^  equals  75 
inche&  equals  1.9  grains.  75x7,000 
equals  525,000  divided  by  1.9  equals 
276,315.8  divided  by  36  equals  7,675.48 
divided  by  840  equals  1-lOa  cotton. 

30  pieces  white  filling  x  lYz  equals 
45  inches  equals  .55  grains.  45x7,000 
equals  315,000  divided  by  .55  equals 
572  727  divided  by  36  equals  15,909 
divided  by  840  equals  l-18s  cotton. 

66  ends  per  inch  finished  and  48 
picks  per  ineh  finished  equal  63  ends 
per  inch  loom  and  44  picks  per  inch 
loom.  10  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving 
minus  6*4  per  cent  contraction  in  reed. 
16  ends  selvage.  30  inches  finished 
equals  32  inches  in  ■ — ^  twill  weave. 
750  reed  minus  3  ""ends  per  dent. 
Finish  equals  size  and  dry  press. 

66x30  equals  1,980  plus  16  equals  1,- 
996  plus  10  per  cent  equals  2,218  yards 
1-lOs  cotton  warp  equals  4.224  ounces. 
48  picks  X  30  equals  1,440  yards,  l-18s 
cotton  filling  equals  1.523  ounces. 

4.224  ounces  warp. 
1.523  ounces  filling. 


5.747  ounces   loom   weight. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars, 

The  machinery  used  to  make  the 
counts  of  yarns  for  the  kind  of  cloth 
under  description  would  be  found  in 
mills  of  the  first  and  perhaps  of  the 
second  division,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  As  the  yarns  are  made  from 
a  short  staple,  low-grade  cotton,  the 
mixing  will  probably  be  done  by  hand; 
i.  e.,  the  bales  of  cotton  would  be 
opened  at  the  mixing  bin  and  the  cot- 
ton separated  into  small  parts  and 
piled  up  in  the  bin  until  it  was  full. 
The  good  waste  from  cards  and  draw- 


ing frames  would  also  be  mixed  in 
with  the  raw  stock,  and  in  the  cheaper 
grades  of  drill  comber  waste  is  some- 
times used  in  small  quantities.  The 
same  length  of  staple  may  be  used 
for  both  warp  and  filling  yarns  and 
they  may  be  run  through  the  same 
machines  up  to  the  fly  frames,  and 
here 

THE   ONLY  DIFFERENCE 

is  that  the  roving  to  make  the  filling 
yarn  is  run  through  one  more  process 
of  fly  frames  than  the  warp  yarn.  The 
mixing  is  taken  from  the  bins  and 
thrown  into  the  hopper  of  the  opener 
and  this  hopper  is  always  kept  full. 
Keep  the  pin  beater  free  from  cotton, 
so  that  an  even  sheet  of  cotton  may  be 


■DaaDBBDaHDBBG 

□■■aaanaiDBaDa 
aaoaaDBBDaaDaa 
BDaBDaaDaaDaaa 
□aaaBaDBBaaaDB 

BBDaaDBBDBBDaa 

BDaaaaaaaaaaaa 
DaaDBaaaaaaanB 
aaaBBDaaaaaDaa 
■aaaDaaaaaaaaa 
DBaoaaDaaDaaDB 
aaDaaDBBaaaaaB 
■□BBaBBOBBaBaa 

Weave 

□DannannannanDB 
DBDaBDDanDanDan 

BDCaaDBDnBDDBQa 
Drawing-in  Draft 

DDDBaannDBBanDa 
BBaaaaBBBQauaflB 

Reed  Plaa 


6.140  ounces  finished. 
5.747  ounces   loom. 

.393  ounces  =  sizing  in  finishlnK. 
Abcut  G^  per  cent  of  size. 

passed  up  to  the  beater,  the  speed  of 
which  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  In  modem  mills 
this  opener  is  built  in  connection  with 
the  breaker  picker,  and  the  cotton, 
after  passing  the  beater,  is  thrown  on 
to  a  moving  lattice  and  is  brought  to 
the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker, 
which  in  turn  condenses  it  and  passes 
the  beater  which  should  have  a  speed 
of  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  See 
that  the  draught  of  this  picker  and 
also  the  finisher  picker  is  so  directed 
that  the  cotton,  after  passing  the 
beater,  will  be  blown  upon  the  top  of 
the  pair  of  cages,  as  this  will 

HELP  TO  MAKE  AN  EVEN  LAP 
at  the  front  end.     The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  breaker 


420 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


should  be  about  40  pounds  or  about  16 
ounces  to  the  yard.  The  laps  are 
then  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  The  speed  of 
this  beater  should  be  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  "weight  of  the 
finished  lap  about  39  pounds  or  14 
ounces  to  the  yard.  The  cotton  re- 
ceives about  42  beats  to  the  inch  at 
this  machine.  The  draft  of  this  ma- 
chine is  very  small  and  very  rarely  ex- 
ceeds 3.  All  heavy  and  quickly  mov- 
ing parts  should  be  oiled  frequently 
and  keep  the  room  clean.  The  laps 
are  then  put  up  at  the  card.  The 
draft  of  this  machine  should  not  ex- 
ceed 100  for  this  class  of  goods. 

THE  SETTINGS 
should  be  wide,  because  it  is  the  ob- 
ject to  get  off  as  many  pounds  as  pos- 
sible for  this  class  of  goods.  Keep  the 
wire  sharp  by  frequent  grindings.  The 
speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be  about 
300  revolutions  per  minute.  The  speed 
of  the  top  flats  should  be  one  com- 
plete revolution  in  40  minutes  and  the 
speed  of  the  doffer  from  131/2  to  14 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  diameter 
of  the  doffer  should  be  as  large  as 
possible,  say  26  or  27  inches.  The  pro- 
duction should  be  about  800  pounds 
for  a  week  of  60  hours. 

THE  SLIVER 
should  weigh  about  65  grains  to  the 
yard.  The  sliver  is  run  through  three 
processes  of  drawings,  the  weight  at 
the  finisher  drawing  being  70  grains. 
The  doublings  at  the  different  process- 
es of  drawing  should  be  6  into  1  and 
the  drafts  should  not  exceed  6.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roller  should  be  400 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  slubber 
is  the  next  process,  and  here  the 
sliver  should  be  made  into  a  50  hank 
roving.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  put 
through  one  more  process  of  fly  frame 
and  made  into  1.25  to  1.50  hank  rov- 
ing and  from  here  passed  to  the  spin- 
ning room.  The  filling  yarn  is  put 
through  one  more  process  and  is  made 
into  2.50  hank  roving  and  then  passed 
on  to  the  spinning  room. 

THE   SPINNING  FRAME 
then   draws   the   roving   into   the    re- 
quired   hank    by    having    the    correct 
draft  gear  put  on.    Good  specifications 


for  both  the  warp  and  filling  frames 
are  as  follows:  For  warp  frame,  for 
spinning  10s  yarn,  gauge  of  spindle, 
three  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  two 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  7  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  8,600  revolutions  per 
minute;  twist  per  inch,  15.02;  for  fill- 
ing frame  spinning  18s  yarn,  gauge  of 
spindle,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
iy2  inches;  speed  of  spindle,  7,200  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  length  of  trav- 
erse, 61/^  inches;  twist  per  inch,  13.79. 
The  warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped 
and  run  through  a  slasher. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
Drills     are     yam     dyed,     blue     and 
brown,  indigo  or  sulphur  blues,  cutch 
or  sulphur  browns. 

PYROGENE   INDIGO   BLUE. 

10  per  cent  color;  20  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  8  per  cent  soda  ash; 
35  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  mineral  oil, 
1  hour  at  200  degrees  F.  After-treated 
with 

1%  per  cent  bichrome;  ly^  per  cent 
sulp]\ate  copper;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid,  9  degrees  Tw.  Well  rinsed  and 
soaped.     A  soap  made  of 

2  per  cent  parafla.n  wax;  2  per  cent 
glue;  2  per  cent  dextrine  is  consid- 
ered very  suitable.  Turn  for  15  min- 
utes at  120  degrees  F.  Squeeze  and 
dry. 

BROvVN. 

5  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O;  1  per 
cent  immedial  dark  brown  A;  -3  per 
cent  immedial  brown  B;  8  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Turn  at  200 
degrees  F.  for  one  hour,  rinse  and 
after-treat: 

1%  per  cent  bichrome;  ll^  per  cent 
sulphate  copper;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid,  9  degrees  Tw. ;  30  minutes  at  200 
degrees  F.  Rinse  and  soap  with  a 
weak  solution  at  Loil. 

A  variety  of  shades  are  piece  dyed 
on  drills  and  used  for  various  pur- 
poses, where  a  very  strong  cloth  is  re- 
quired. 

SLATE. 

3  per  cent  thion  black  B;  3  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  common  salt.  Rinse  well 
and  soap. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


421 


BLACK. 


15  per  cent  thion  black  G;  15  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  common  salt.  Rinse 
well  and  soap. 

BUFF. 

1  per  cent  thion  brown  G;  V^  per 
cent  thion  yellow  R;  2  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  common  salt.  Rinse  well 
and  soap. 

OLIVE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  olive  B;  Yz  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  G;  i^  per  cent 
immedial  yellow  D;  5  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt.  Rinse  well  and 
soap. 

SKY  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  pow- 
der; 3  per  cent  sodium  sulphate;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt.    Rinse  well  and  soap. 

GREEN. 

10  per  cent  katigen  green  2  B;  10 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
rinse  well   and   soap. 

DARK  BOTTLE  GREEN. 

10  per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B; 
2  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  i/^  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  G;  13  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Rinse  well 
and  soap. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  diamine  fast  red;  3  per 
cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt.  Rinse  and  after-treat  with  1  per 
cent  fluoride  chrome. 


FLANNELETTE 


Flannelette  is  a  narrow,  light-weight 
fabric  composed  of  all-cotton  yarns, 
from  l-30s  to  l-14s  in  the  warp  and 
filling,  the  filling  being  soft  spun  to 
permit  of  the  raising  of  a  very  slight 
nap  on  the  back  of  the  goods. 

This  fabrics  is  practically  always 
woven  from  grey  yarns  and  never 
from  bleached  yarns.     In  some  cases 


where  striped  patterns  of  a  woven 
character  are  being  made  the  yarns 
are  made  by  a  stock  dyeing  process, 
and  in  this  case  it  might  be  said  that 
the  yarns  were  of  a  bleaclied  and  dyed 
character,  but  by  far  the  largest  por- 
tion of  the  cloths  are  not  made  in  this 
manner.  When  the  material  has  been 
woven  it  is  piece  bleached  and  then 
the  various  printed  patterns  are 
placed  upon  the  face  of  the  goods  by 
the  printing  machine.  In  the  most 
successful  mills  these  fabrics  are  mad© 
in  the  grey  state  upon  automatic 
looms,  and  a  lower  cost  of  production 
obtained.  Even  when  striped  pat- 
terns are  being  made,  or  where  solid 
colors  in  piece  dyed  effects  are  being 
produced  some  manufacturers  have 
found  the  use  of  automatic  looms  of 
great  advantage. 

Flannelette  is  made  with  simple  one 
or  two  colored  stripe  patterns,  either 
black  and  white,  or  indigo  blue  and 
white,  and  in  elaborate  all-over  floral 
designs  in  imitation  of  jacquard  pat- 
terns, the  ground  colors  being  of  a 
dark  tone,  and  the  figure  of  either 
harmonious  or  contrasting  combina- 
tions of  color.  The  'finished  fabric  is 
sold  by  the  retailer  at  8  to  10  cents 
per  yard,  27  inches  wide,  and  is  used 
very  extensively  in  the  manufacture 
of  ladies'  wrappers,  kimonos,  etc.,  for 
house  wear,  and  which,  when  soiled, 
can  be  thrown  into  the  family  wash 
and  cleaned. 

THE   PRINTING    OPERATION 

is  performed  by  an  automatic  machine, 
which  consists  of  a  series  of  rollers  or 
drums,  over  which  the  cloth  is  passed 
to  hold  it  taut,  and  smooth  all  wrin- 
kles so  that  the  goods  present  an  even 
surface  to  the  printing  roll. 

Upon  this  roller  the  design  or  pat- 
tern is  engraved,  and  the  liquid  color 
being  fed  upon  it  as  it  revolves,  the 
cloth  passes  over  the  surface,  and  re  • 
tains  an  exact  impression  of  the  de- 
sign (in  colors)  that  has  been  en- 
graved upon  the  roller. 

Flannelette  can  be  woven  in  any 
single  box  loom,  and  the  finish  means 
taking  from  the  loom  and  brushing  off, 
to  remove  loose  threads,  then  run- 
ning through  the  napper  to  produce  a 


422 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


nap    on    the   goods,    after   which   the 
fabric  is  printed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27  inches  finished. 

4  square  inches  equals  4.85  grains. 
27x36  equals  972x4.85  equals  5,714.20 
divided  by  4  equals  1,428.55  divided  by 
437.5  equals  3.034  ounces  per  yard,  27 
inches  wide. 

OnaBDOBB 

Dmmaamma 
umaammaa 
■aaBHODB 

DGBBDCBB 
DBBOCrBBa 
BBDDBBDa 
BDQBBDDB 
Design 

DDDBDnDB 
DDBDnOBa 

DBonDBna 
uaaamaaa 

Drawing- in  Draft 

DDBBnOBB 

■BDOBBOa 

Reed  Plan 

DDBB 
DBBQ 
BBDO 
BDOB 
DDBB 
DBBD 
BBDD 
BDDB 
Uarnni  Cbtuim 

20  pieces  white  warp  x  2l^  equals 
50  inches  equals  .35  grains.  50x7,000 
equals  350,000  divided  by  .35  equals  1,- 
000,000  divided  by  840  equals  l-SOs 
cotton  warp. 

16  pieces  white  filling  x  2  equals  32 
inches  equals  .3  grains.  32x7,000 
equals  224,000  divided  by  .3  equals 
746,666  divided  by  840  equals  1-243 
cotton   filling. 

Reed  1,460—29  1-3  inches— 2  ends 
per  dent;  16  ends  selvage,  10  per  cent 
take-up;  2,376  ends,  l-30s  white  cot- 
ton warp  (ex.  of  selvage) ;  59  picks, 
l-24s  white  cotton  filling  (soft  spun) ; 
? — 2  45s  twill  weave  (warp  effect  on 
face) ;  finish  equals  very  light  nap  on 
the  back  of  the  fabric  or  filling  effect. 

88  ends  per  inch  finished  and  64 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  81  ends 
in  reed  and  59  picks  in  loom. 

88x27  equals  2,376  plus  16  equals 
2,392  ends  plus  10  per  cent  take-up 
equals  2,658  yards  l-30s  warp  yarn 
equals  1.687  ounces.  64  picks  x  27 
equals  1,728  yards  l-24s  filling  equals 
1.371  ounces.    Total  3.058  ounces. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 
The     processes    of    machinery    for 
making  the   required   count   of   yarns 


for  flannelette  may  be  found  in  either 
the  better  class  of  the  first  division 
or  in  the  second  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  A  medium 
to  low  grade  of  cotton  of  from  %  to 
1%  inch  staple  may  be  used,  accord- 
ing to  the  grade  or  mill  in  which  the 
flannelette  is  made.  Generally  speak- 
ing, a  cotton  of  %-inch  staple  is  used. 
In  the  first  division  of  mills  the  mix- 
ing would  be  done  by  hand,  but  in  the 
second  division  the  equipment  would 
probably  include  a  bale  breaker,  and 
unless  the  mixing  was  pressed  the 
cotton  would  be  run  through  this  ma- 
chine, and  as  this  machine  will  take 
care  of  80,000  pounds  of  cotton  there 
is  not  much  danger  of  it  being  over- 
worked. 

THE  MIXING 

should  be  as  large  as  possible  and  in 
the  lower  grades  of  flannelette  the 
mixing  would  include  a  small  percent- 
age of  comber  waste,  as  well  as  the 
good  sliver  waste  from  the  cards, 
drawing  frames  and  comber  rooms  (if 
equipment  contains  same).  The  better 
grades  of  flannelette  would  not  use 
waste.  Roving  waste  would  be  used 
in  both  mixings,  but  this  stock  would 
not  be  mixed  until  the  finisher  picker 
process,  and  here  the  waste  should  not 
be  mixed  in  a  greater  proportion  than 
1  to  4.  In  the  modern  equipments  of 
mills  generally  only  two  processes  of 
picking,  with  an  opener,  are  used;  but 
as  there  are  a  great  many  mills,  which 
use  three  processes  of  picking,  the 
particulars  will  be  given  for 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING. 

For  this  class  of  goods  the  rigid  type 
of  beater  is  used  on  all  picking  ma- 
chines. Ke^p  the  hopper  of  the  opener 
more  than  half  full  to  help  obtain  an 
even  lap.  The  speed  of  the  beater  of 
the  opener  should  be  about  1,000  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  machine  is 
generally  used  in  connection  with  the 
breaker  picker,  and  after  the  cotton 
has  passed  the  beater,  it  is  passed 
under  a  pair  of  wooden  rollers  onto  an 
endless  lattice  which  carries  it  to  the 
feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of"  this  machine 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  and  the  weight  of  the  laps  at 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


423 


the  front  about  40  pounds  or  about  16 
ounces  to  the  yard. 

THE  DOUBLINGS 
of  the  intermediate  picker  should  be 
four  into  one  and  the  speed  of  this 
beater  should  be  the  same  as  the  fin- 
isher picker,  or  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  speed  of  the  fan  at  this 
machine  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  speed  of  the 
driving  shafts  on  this  and  on  the  fin- 
isher picker  should  be  about  375  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  a  littl« 
less  than  at  the  breaker,  or  about  37 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The  same 
particulars  may  be  used  for  the  finish- 
er picker  with  the  following  excep- 
tions: Speed  of  fan,  1,100  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  weight  of  the  lap 
about  39  pounds  or  about  a  14-ounce 
lap.  These  particulars  will  answer  for 
both  warp  and  filling.  The  lap  is  put 
up  at  the  card  which  should  have  a 
draft  of  about  100.  Set  the  doffer  to 
a  5 -gauge  and  use  as  large  a  doffer  as 
possible,  either  a  26  or  27  inch.    The 

PRODUCTION  OF  A  CARD 

for  this  class  of  work  should  be  about 
800  pounds,  with  a  65-grain  sliver,  for 
a  week  of  60  hours.  On  this  class  of 
goods  no  combing  is  used,  but  a  three- 
process  drawing.  See  that  the  proper 
weights  are  attached  to  the  top  rolls. 
The  doublings  are  generally  six  into 
one,  although  eight  into  one  are  used 
in  some  mills.  Don't  draw  more  than 
you  double.  The  draft  should  be  about 
5  at  each  process;  speed  of  front  rolls 
400  revolutions  per  minute.  Watch 
your  settings  of  the  top  rolls  at  these 
machines.  The  hank  roving  made  at 
the  slubber  should  be  about  .55.  Only 
one  process  of  fly  frames  is  used  for 
warp,  the  hank  roving  being  made 
about  2.  Use  square  root  of  hank  x  1.1 
for  twist.  For  the  filling,  a  two-proc- 
ess fly  frame  is  used,  the  hank 
roving  being  2  at  the  first  interme- 
diate and  3.75  to  4.00  hank  at  the  2d 
intermediate.  Use  square  root  of  hank 
X  1.2  for  twist.  The  roving  is  now  car- 
ried to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM 
where   it   is    made    into   the   required 
count  of  yarn.    For  14s  warp  yarn  use 


the  following  particulars  for  spinning 
frame:  Size  of  spindle,  any  first  class; 
gauge  of  spindle,  3  inches;  diameter 
or  ring,  2%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
7  inches.  For  this  class  of  goods  a 
soft  twist  is  used  for  the  warp  yarn, 
as  little  as  possible  being  put  in,  but 
be  sure  and  put  in  enough  so  that 
the  yarn  will  not  break  back  in  the 
loom.  For  a  filling  frame  for  30s  yarn 
use  as  follows:  Gauge  of  spindles,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  IVz  inches, 
length  of  traverse,  GVz  inches.  The 
warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped 
and  put  through  the  slasher. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

SKY  BLUE. 
%  per  cent  eboli  blue  6  B;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
PINK. 
^  per  cent  dioxyrubine  G;    20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
YELLOW. 

^  per  cent  fast  cotton  yellow  C-  ex- 
tra; 20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 

3  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

WINE. 

4  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

RED. 
4  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
CINNAMON  BROWN. 

3  per  cent  diamine  brown  3  G;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BLACK. 
15   per   cent  pyrogene   black  B;    20 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   3  per  cent 
Boda  ash;  40  per  cent  Glauber's. 
DARK  BROWN. 

4  per  cent  chrysophenine;  2  per  cent 
benzo  fast  black;  2y2  per  cent  benzo 
fast  red  L;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
3  per  cent  benzo  green  G  G;   %  per 
cent  chrysophenine;  V2  per  cent  benzo 
fast  black;    30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3 
per  cent  sal  soda. 


424 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SLATE.  Denim  is   sometimes    dyed    in    the 

1  per  cent  benzo  fast  black;  1/2  per  piece,  in  light  shades  of  tan,  blue,  etc., 
cent  benzo  fast  blue  B  N;  Vg  per  cent  and  the  goods  made  up  into  summer 
benzo  fast  red  L;    30  per  cent  Glaub-  outmg  skirts  for  ladies'  wear. 

er's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda.  1  square  inch  equals  2.6  grains.  27  x 

TTP^T  Tm-T^nPTT  ^^  equals  972  x  2.6  equals  2,527.2  divid- 

t±ti.i^iuitiuft^.  gjj  ^^,  ^  equals  2,527.2  divided  by  437.5 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  lilac  B.;  30  per  equals  5.77  ounces  per  yard,  27  inches 
cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  soda.  wide  finished. 

NAVY    BLUE.  20  pieces  blue  warp  x  1  inch  equals 

5  per  cent  tetrazo  indigo  blue  C;  30  20  inches  equals  .5  grains.    20  x  7,000 

per    cent    Glauber's;     3    per    cent    sal  equals  140,000  divided  by  .5  equals  2,- 

so(ja.  800,000   divided   by   36   equals   7,777.77 

ORANGE.  divided  by  840  equals  l-9s  warp. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  orange  □■■qbbcbbubb  naa  DainGBDnigni 
R.;   30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  5"BBagB"BB"B        bob            BGZBz^ij^i'a 

sal     soda.  BB^iScBB'SS"               SBSs                         Dra.lni-m  Dra^ 

LEMON  Y'ELLOW.  ■iB"iB?i5''iS        cS!" 

1^  per  cent  tetrazo  lemon  yellow;  BrBBzBB^iBzS        ■"■! 

30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  gii^i!gi!g»        ij?"         on-— dgb- 

soda.  Bcaazaa^BBGa         a^a             aaaGDaaaaaaa 

♦-»-♦ Design                                                                       Keed  Plin 

DENIM  ^^   pieces   white   filling   x    3    inches 

_      .       .                                ,.              .  ,  ,  equals  45  inches  equals  .65  grains  .45 

Denim  is  a  strong,  medium-weight  ^  ^  qq^  ^  j^  3^5  ^^^q  divided  by  .65 
smgle-cloth  fabric,  weighing  from  41/2  -^^  ^g^  g^-  divided  bv  36  equals  13.- 
to  5  ounces  per  yard  and  composed  of  ^g^^g  ^^^^^^^  ^  §40  equals  l-16s  fill- 
single  cotton  yarn  in  warp  and  filling.  ^^^ 

It  is  usually  made  with  a  small,  un-  °'             CONSTRUCTION 

even-sided  twill  weave,  such  as" — ^45''  , twill  45° 

trv-ill,    and    in     solid     color    warp     ef-  68  'ends   per   inch   finished    and     42 

fects,    generally   mdigo   blue   or   dark  ^^^^          ^^^^  finished  equals  63  ends 

brown,  and  white  filling.     White  sel-  j^  ^^^^  ^^^  4^  ^-^^^  ^^  loom, 

vage  is  used  m  all  grades.  j^^^^     750—29    inches— 3    ends    per 

A  grade   known  as   covert  cloth    is  ^^^^   -^^  ^^^  ^^^^  take-up— 32  ends  sel- 

made  of  twist  yarn  m  the  warp,  and  ^          ^q  ^^^      ^_-^q^  ^.j^j^^  ^ottoj^  All. 

dark  colored  single  filling.    The  twist  .^^g 

yarns  are  usually  blue  and  white  and  ^'gog    ^Q^g   ^i^q    yarn    and    32    ends 

the  cloth  of  a  similar  texture  to  that  ^.^^j^^  ^^^.^  selvage  equals  l-9s  cotton 

of  the  regular  denim.  warp 

In   effect   denim    is   a  stout,   twilled  ^  gjg  '_^   3,   =   1,868    +   10%   take- 
fabric,  having  excellent  wearing  quali-          up  -=  2.076  yards  1-9  warp =    4.39  oz. 

ties,  and  is  made  to  sell  at  10  to  15  '\f^^l^  .^. .".".  .:^.  .'.'.\^.'.  .'y^'.  .':=    1.35  oz. 

cents  per  yard    retail.    It  is  used  prin-  

cipally  in  the  manufacture  of  overalls,  ^■^'*  °^ 

to  be  worn  by  workmen  who  operate 
machinery,  or  by  those  who  perform 
hard,  rough  labor  of  any  description. 

Denim  can  be  woven  on  any  single 
box  loom,  the  warp  being  prepared  on 
the  slasher  in  the  same  manner  as  a 
sheeting  warp.  It  is  then  drawn  in  on 
the  harness  or  heddles,  in  accordance 
with  weave  desired. 

The  finish  of  this  fabric  is  a  rather 
heavy  sizing,  after  which  the  goods  are 
dried  and  pressed. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Denim  is  constructed  of  yarns  that 
are  made  in  either  the  first  or  second 
division  of  mills  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  In  the  second  division 
of  mills  the  raw  stock  would  be  run 
through  a  bale  breaker,  as  this  class 
of  mills  would  undoubtedly  contain 
this  machine  in  their  equipment.  In 
the  first  division  of  mills  the  mixing 
would  be   done   by  hand.    When  bale 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


425 


breakers  are  used,  it  is  of  great  ad- 
vantage to  have  a  blower  in  connection 
with  them.  This  blower  is  generally 
placed  at  the  deliverj-  end  of  the  ma- 
chine and  blows  the  cotton,  after  it 
has  passed  through  the  bale  breaker, 
through  trunking  onto  an  endless  lat- 
tice which  deposits  it  in  the  mixing 
bins.  A  blower  is  of  advantage  be- 
cause it  opens  the  cotton  and  the  cur- 
rent of  air  helps  to  dry  it  and  the  cot- 
ton does  not  have  to  dry  out  in  the 
mixing  bins,  as  is  the  case  when  a 
blower  is   not  used.     Mixing  is 

A  VERY  I:\1P0RTANT  PART 

of  the  card  room,  and  too  little  atten- 
tion is  generally  given  to  it.  It  will 
be  understood  that  if  the  cotton  is  not 
properly  mixed,  this  defect  cannot  be 
remedied  at  any  subsequent  machine. 
Cotton  of  the  same  length  of  staple 
should  always  be  used,  cotton  of  the 
same  nature,  and  where  waste  is  used 
the  percentage  should  be  as  small  as 
it  is  possible  to  make  it.  The  same 
mixing  may  be  ussd  for  making  both 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns,  a  me- 
dium to  low  grade  being  used  of  a 
staple  length  of  about  one  inch  (rang- 
ing from  %  to  1  1-16  inches,  accord- 
ing to  the  quality  of  the  denim  being 
made).  A  small  percentage  of  comber 
waste  n  ay  be  used,  but  is  not  advis- 
able. The  good  sliver  waste 
from  the  cards  and  drawing 
frames  is  mixed  with  the  raw- 
stock  and  the  roving  waste  is 
mixed  in  the  manner  described  in  a 
previous  article.  The  cotton  would  be 
put  through  two  processes  of  picking 
and  an  opener.  Keep  the  hopper  of  the 
opener  well  filled  with  cotton,  so  that 
the  lifting  apron  will  always  be  carry- 
ing up  a  full  load  of  cotton  to  the  pin 
roller.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
of  the  opener  should  be  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  speed  of 
the  fan  being  about  350  revolutions 
per  minute.  If  porcupine  beater  is 
used,  the  speed  should  be  about  1,150 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  speed  of 
a  two-bladed  beater  of  a  rigid  type  of 
the  breaker  picker  should  be  about  1,- 
500  revolutions  per  minute,  the  speed 
of  the  fan  being  about  100  revolutions 


less.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  head  end  should  be  about  40 
pounds,  or  20  ounces  to  the  yard.  The 
doublings  at  the  finisher  picker  are 
4  into  1  and  the  speed  of  the  beater 
(two-bladed  rigid  type),  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  which  will  beat  the 
cotton  sheet  presented  to  it  about  42 
times  per  inch  in  length.  The  weight 
of  the  lap  in  the  front  should  be  as 
heavy  as  possible  and  at  the  same 
time  not  overwork  the  card.  A  good 
weight  would  be  39  pounds  or  a  14- 
ounce  lap   (for  a  38-inch  lap).     The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 

should  not  exceed  100  and  should  be 
not  less  than-  90.  The  sliver  should 
weigh  65  grains  per  yard  and  the  pro- 
duction about  850  pounds  for  a  week 
of  60  hours.  Keep  your  card  wire 
sharp,  and  be  sure  that  your  top  flats 
are  ground  even,  because  close  and 
accurate  settings  cannot  be  obtained 
when  the  wire  on  the  flats  is  not  of  a 
uniform  length.  Large  doffers  should 
also  be  used.  The  sliver  would  then  be 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing 
frames,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  (l^^ 
inches  diameter)  being  400  revolutions 
per  minute  on  each  set.  The  draft 
should  not  be  more  than  the  doublings 
and  the  sliver  should  weigh  about  70 
grains  per  yard, 

THE  PRODUCTION 
being  about  260  pounds  per  delivery 
per  day  of  10  hours.  When  metallic 
rolls  are  used,  the  production  would 
be  considerably  greater  or  about  350 
under  the  conditions  noted  above.  Me- 
tallic rolls  are  coming  more  and  more 
into  use,  especially  on  the  lower 
counts  of  yarns,  and  also  on  a  heavy 
sliver;  although  they  can  be  used  on 
all  grades  and  lengths  of  staple,  they 
are  not  generally  used,  but  not  through 
any  fault  of  the  rolls,  as  they  are  suit- 
able for  producing  fine  work.  The  slub- 
ber draws  the  sliver  into  .55  hank  and 
the  one-process  fly  frames  used  m.ake 
the  roving  into  a  l-"5  hank  roving. 
Sometimes  two  different  hanks  are 
made  at  the  fly  frame,  one  for  the 
warp  and  one  for  the  filling  yarns; 
where  this  is  the  case,  the  warp  is 
made  from  one  hank  roving  and  the 
filling  from  2.00  hank.     The  particu- 


426 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


lars  for  the  warp  spinning  frame  for 
No.  9s  are  as  follows:  Front  roll,  one 
inch  diameter;  gauge  of  frame,  3 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  214  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  7  inches;  for  a  fill- 
ing trame  making  16s  use  gauge  of 
frame,  21  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
11  inches;  length  of  traverse,  QV2 
inches.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  spool- 
ed, warped  and  put  through  the 
slasher. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

BLUE. 

6  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B.;  6  per 
cent  katigen  indigo  5  G.;  12  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  soda  ash, 
20  per  cent  salt;  after-treat  with  IV^ 
per  cent  bichrome,  2  per  cent  copper 
sulphate  and  4  per  cent  acetic  acid. 
Rinse  well  and  soap. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  NN. ;  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  4  per  cent  soda  ash. 
Rinse   well  and  soap. 

BROWN. 

6  per  cent  thion  brown  G.;  6  per 
cent  thion  brown  B.;  2  per  cent  thion 
yellow  R.;  14  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
dium; 4  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per 
cent  salt;  after-treat  3  per  cent  bi- 
chrome, 3  per  cent  sulphate  cop- 
per; 5  per  cent  acetic  acid.  Rinse  well 
and   soap. 

SLATE. 

5  per  cent  pyrogene  black  B.;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt.  Rinse  well  and 
soap. 

DARK  GREEN. 

10  per  cent  immedial  green  G. ;  % 
per  cent  immedial  black  NB.;  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Rinse 
well  and  soap. 

RED. 

8  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F. ;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 
soda  crystals.  Rinse  and  after-treat  2 
per  cent  fluoride  chrome  at  160  de- 
grees  F. 


BOURRETTE 


Bourrette  is  a  light-weight,  single 
cloth  fabric,  weighing  from  4V^  to  6 
ounces,  composed  of  two-ply  cotton 
warp,  and  either  wool,  merino,  or  a 
combination  of  cotton  and  wool  shod- 
dy filling.  Both  the  warp  and  the  fill- 
ing have  an  occasional  end  or  pick 
of  fancy  bourrette  or  nub  yarn  add- 
ed  for  effect;    hence  the  name. 

In  appearance  bourrette  cloth  is  a 
semi-rough-faced  woolen  fabric,  hav- 
ing small  fancy  colored  lumps  on  the 
yarn,  scattered  throughout  the  goods 
in  accordance  with  the  effect  desir- 
ed. The  cloth  when  finished  is  used 
principally  in  the  manufacture  of  la- 
dies' fall  suitings. 

THE  WEAVE 
is  usually  a  ^ plain  weave,  or  a  mix- 
ed twill  effect,  such  as  can  be  produc- 
ed from  the  regular  - —  45  degrees 
twill,  viz.:  diamond  or  entwining  twill 
weaves.  These  weaves,  in  connection 
with  certain  warp  and  filling  patterns, 
such  as  1  black,  1  fancy  twist  or  2 
black,  2  fancy  twist,  create  very  elab- 
orate styles,  as  this  color  arrangement 
serves  to  hide  the  rigid  outline  of 
the  design,  and  thus  has  a  tendency 
to  complicate  the  general  appearance 
of  the  weave  used  in  the  fabric. 

The  fancy  effects  in  twist  that  can 
be  adapted  to  this  line  are  made  by 
twisting  the  following  colors  together, 
viz.: 

Black  and  white. 
Black  and   light  blue. 
Black  and  light    green. 
Black  and  old     gold. 
Black  and  red. 
Black  and   light  brown. 

These  twist  yarns  serve  the  purpose 
of  brightening  up  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the  goods. 

Bourrette  cloth  can  be  woven  in  any 
power  loom,  excepting  those  styles 
wherein  a  single  pick  of  the  fancy 
yarn  is  introduced  in  the  filling,  in 
which  case  a  pick  and  pick  dobby 
loom  is  necessary. 

TO  FINISH  THE  FABRIC, 
the  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom  and 
measured,  after  which  they  are  brush- 
ed, scoured  in  a  solution  of  soap 
and  cold  water,  then  tentered  and 
dried  and  pressed. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


427 


The  bourrette  yarn  is  made  by  twist- 
ing two  cotton  threads  and  a  worsted 
thread  togetlier,  the  worsted  being  al- 
lowed to  deliver  more  quickly  than 
the  cotton  threads  at  regular  inter- 
vals. 

The  excess  which  is  delivered  is 
twisted  around  the  cotton  threads  in 


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Drawing-in  Draft 

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Drawing-in 

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Harness  Chain 

the  one  place,  thereby  forming  a  lump 
on  the  twisted  yarn,  as  the  worsted 
yarn  is  run  at  a  varied  speed,  and  is 
not  regularly  distributed  around  the 
cotton  threads. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4   square  inches  equals  7.61   grains. 

33  X  36  equals  1,188  times  7.61  equals 
904,068  divided  by  4  equals  2,260.17  di- 
vided by  437.5  equals  5.11  ounces,  33 
inches  wide  from  loom. 

23  pieces  black  warp  times  2  equals 
46  inches  equals  1.41  grains. 

46  X  7,000  equals  322,000  divided  by 
1.41  equals  228,368  divided  by  36 
equals  6,343.5  divided  by  840  equals  2- 
14s. 

22  pieces  tTvist  warp  times  2^4 
equals  55  inches  equals  2  grains. 

55  X  7,000  equals  385,000  divided  by 
2  equals  178,804  divided  by  36  equals 
5,216.8  divided  by  840  equals  2-12s. 

30  pieces  black  merino  filling  tim^s 


2  equals  60  inches  equals  3  grains. 
60  X  7,000  equals  420,000  divided  by 

3  equals  140,000  divided  by  36  equals 
3,888  divided  by  300  equals  l-12s  cut. 

10  per  cent  up. 

Reed,  400  minus  1  end  per  dent 
minus  36  inches  wide,  including  sel- 
vage of  16  ends  2-14s  black,  24  picks, 
1-12  cut  merino  equals  75  per  cent 
wool  and  25  per  cent  cotton. 

Warp  pattern:  1  black  equals  2-14s 
cotton;   1  twist  equals  2-12s  cotton. 

24  picks  times  36  equals  864  yards 
1-12   merino   equals   3.84   ounces. 

192  ends  black  plus  16  equals  208 
plus  10  per  cent  take-up  equals  231 
yards,  2-14s  equals  6.28  ounces;  192 
ends  twist  plus  10  per  cent  take-up 
equals  213  yards  2-12s  equals  .676 
ounces;  total,  5.144  ounces  per  yard 
loom. 

Finish — Scour,  tenter  and  steam 
press  to  loom  width. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

In  the  class  of  goods  under  descrip- 
tion it  will  be  noticed  that  there  is  a 
very  small  percentage  of  cotton  con- 
tained in  its  make-up.  If  the  cotton 
yarn  that  this  class  of  goods  contains 
was  made  in  a  cotton  mill,  the  follow- 
ing particulars  would  be  a  good  foun- 
dation on  which  to  base  the  speeds, 
weight  and  processes  through  which 
the  raw  stock  would  have  to  pass  be- 
fore being  turned  out  into  2-ply  12s 
or  2-14s  yarn,  as  the  case  may  be. 
This  class  of  yarn  may  be  made  in  the 
first  division  of  mills,  and  the  cotton 
would  be  hand  mixed  and  put  in  the 
bins.  The  mixing  should  be  allowed  to 
dry  out  as  much  as  possible  before  us- 
ing, and  a  better  plan  would  be  to 
have  two  large  mixing  bins  so  that 
when  one  was  in  use  the  other  one 
might  be  filled  and  the  cotton  dried. 
This  is  not  always  done,  because  most 
picker  rooms  are  pressed  for  floor 
space. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 

should  be  put  through  two  processes 
of  picking  and  an  opener.  The  good 
waste  from  pickers,  cards  and  draw- 
ing frames  should  be  put  into  the  mix- 
ing bin  before  running  it  through  the 
opener.     Always  keep  the  hopper  of 


428 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


the  opener  more  than  half  full  and 
gauge  your  stripping  roller  so  that 
quite  a  heavy  weight  of  cotton  is  pass- 
ed to  the  action  of  the  beater.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  for  the  opener 
should  be  about  1,000  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  speed  of  the  fan  about 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  This  ma- 
chine is  used  in  connection  with  the 
breaker  picker  and  the  speed  of  the 
beater  (2  bladed  rigid  type),  should  be 
about  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
should  be  about  40  pounds  or  a  20- 
ounce  lap  to  the  yard.  The  laps  from 
the  breaker  picker  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  at  this  ma- 
chine should  be  about  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  which  gives  about 
42  blows  per  inch  of  cotton  fed.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

should  be  about  40  pounds  or  a  1414- 
ounce  lap.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see 
that  the  variation  in  the  total  weight 
of  the  laps  delivered  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  picker  is  not  more  than 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  from  stand- 
ard weight  for  raw  stock  to  make 
goods  under  description,  and  the 
amount  of  variation  for  the  finer 
classes  of  goods  should  not  exceed 
one-half  a  pound  from  standard.  When 
laps  are  found  to  vary  more  than 
above  noted,  they  should  be  placed  at 
the  back  of  the  finisher  picker  and  run 
over.  If  a  great  degree  of  variation  is 
found,  1.  e.,  if  the  standard  is  40 
pounds,  and  laps  are  delivered  which 
weigh  391/4,  41,  39,  40%,  and  so  on,  it 
shows  that  the  picker  needs  adjust- 
ment, and  on  all  makes  of  machines 
there  are  devices  to  regulate  these 
small  variations.  The  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  card  and  the  draft  of  this  ma- 
chine should  not  exceed  100. 

THE   WIRE  FILLET 

should  be  coarser,  so  as  to  stand  the 
pressure  of  the  weight  and  amount  of 
cotton  to  be  passed  through.  This 
wire  should  be  kept  sharp  by  frequent 
grindings  with  the  grinding  rollers. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be 
about  65  grains  to  the  yard  and  the 
production  of  a  card  for  60  hours  on 


this  class  of  goods  should  be  not  less 
than  850  pounds.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roller  in  each  case 
should  be  400  revolutions  per  minute. 
On  this  grade  of  cotton  it  would  be  of 
great  advantage  if  metallic  rolls  were 
used.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
front  of  the  finisher  drawing  frame 
should  be  about  70  grains  to  the  yard. 
The  sliver  at  the  drawing  frames 
should  be  weighed  about  three  times  a 
day  to  see  that  it  is  the  proper  weight. 
The  slubber  roving  should  weigh  about 
.50  hank.  Only  one  process  of  fly 
frames  is  used  and  the  hank  at  this 
should  be  about  1.50.  The  roving  is 
then  carried  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM, 

when  it  is  spun  to  the  required  count 
yarn.  The  particulars  to  spin  12s  on 
a  warp  frame  are  as  follows:  gauge  of 
frame  three  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
2 J  inches;  length  of  traverse,  7 
inches;  twist  per  inch,  16.45;  speed  of 
spindle,  9,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  same  particulars  may  be  used  for 
making  14s  yarn  with  the  following 
exceptions,  that  somewhat  different 
particulars  are  required  for  the  spin- 
ning frame.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  taken  to  the  twister  when 
it  is  made  into  2-ply  or  2-14s,  as  the 
case  may  be,  after  which  it  is  sized 
at  the   slasher. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLACK. 

10  per  cent  immedial  brilliant  black 
B.,  10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per 
cent  soda  ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

For  the  threads  of  colored  yarn 
which  are  mixed  with  the  black  and 
white,  fast  sulphur  colors  are  dyed. 

For  union  yarn  a  one-dip  aniline 
union   black  is  generally   dyed. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
10  per  cent  pyrogene  indigo,  20  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  10  per  cent  soda 
ash,  35  per  cent  salt,  3  pints  mineral 
oiL 

LIGHT   GREEN. 
8  per  cent  pyrogene  green  G.,  16  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  6  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  salt. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


429 


OLD  GOLD. 

4  per  cent  pyrol  bronze,  2  per  cent 
pyrol  yellow,  6  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
dium, 3  per  cent  soda  ash,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
10  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
OLIVE. 
4  per  cent  immedial  olive  3G.,  1  per 
cent  Immedial  cutch  O.,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  5  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium. 


FANCY  SHIRTING 

Fancy  shirting  is  a  light-wight,  sin- 
gle cloth  wash  fabric,  weighing  from 
two  to  three  ounces  per  yard,  and 
composed  of  regular,  single,  cotton 
yarns,  l-26s  to  l-40s  in  warp  and  fill- 
ing. 

It  is  made  in  simple  stripe  patterns 
either  printed  on  the  woven,  bleached 


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Idea  for  f  ancj  iteave 

fabric,  or  of  fast  colors,  dyed  upon 
the  warp.  Combinations  of  each  are 
sometimes  formed  to  create  attractive 
styles. 

THE    WEAVE 
used  is  either  the  plain    L       or  this 

combined  with  a  fancy  rib  or  basket 
weave. 

Fancy  shirting  is  made  to  retail  at  8 
to  12%  cents  per  yard,  and  is  used 
in  men's  outing  and  working  sliirts, 
ladies'  and  children's  waists,  blouses 
and  summer  suits.  It  is  from  the  con- 
sumer's standpoint  a  practically  inex- 


pensive material,  which,  when  the  gar- 
ment becomes  soiled,  can  become  a 
part  of  the  family  wash  and  be  readily 
renovated. 

Those  grades  in  which  the  plain 
weave  alone  is  used  are  best  adapted 
to  the  plain  single  box  loom.  The 
fancy  styles,  in  which  a  more  elab- 
orate weave  effect  is  desired,  require 
a  loom  having  a  dobby. 

THE  FAST  WARP  COLORS, 

generally  used  in  connection  with  the 
bleached  or  white  yarns  to  create  a 
range  of  patterns  for -this  fabric  are: 
Dark  blue,  dark  green,  black,  red,  lav- 
ender, pink,  ecru,  tan,  light  green, 
light  blue  and  violet. 

FINISHING. 
To  finish  this  fabric  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 
the  washer,  after  which  they  are  very 
lightly  sized,  then  dried  by  the  process 
of  tentering  (this  also  prevents  undue 
shrinkage  in  width).  After  drying  run 
through  the  calender  to  press  out 
wrinkles,  also  to  bring  up  a  clear,  even 
face.  Then  the  goods  are  ready  to 
lap  and  fold  in  readiness  for  the  ship- 
per. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4  square  inches  equals  4.18  grains. 

27  X  36  equals  972  x  4.18  equals  4,- 
062.96  divided  by  4,  equals  1,015.74  di- 
vided by  437.5  equals  2.319  ounces 
per  yard,  27  inches  wide. 

12  pieces  blue  warp  times  1^^  equals 
18  inches  equals  .16  grains. 

18  X  7,000  equals  126,000  divided  by 
.16  equals  787,500  divided  by 
36  equals  21,878  divided  by 
840  equals  l-26s  blue  warp  yarn  (cot- 
ton). 

12  pieces  white  warp  times  1% 
equals  18  inches  equals  .16  grains. 

18  X  7,000  equals  126,000  divided  by 
.16  equals  787,500  divided  by  36  equals 
27,878  divided  by  840  equals  l-26s 
white   warp  yarn   (cotton). 

19  pieces  white  filling  times  2  equals 
38  inches  equals  .25  grains. 

19  X  7,000  equals  266,000  divided  by 
.25  equals  1,064,000  divided  by  36 
equals  29,833  divided  by  804  equals 
l-36s  white  filling  yarn   (cotton). 

27  inches  finished. 

Reed,  1,150  minus   29   inches  minus 


430 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


2  ends  per  dent;  54  picks  minus  l-36s 
white  cotton  filling;  l-26s  cotton 
warp;  10  per  cent  take-up;  1,858  ends 
in  warp  plus  32  white  selvage. 

WARP    PATTERN. 
3   white. 
•1   light    blue     I  „    ., 
3  white.  5  ^  tiroes. 

1  light   blue. 
3  white. 

2  white    in    1    heddle. 
8   light    blue. 

2   white   in    1    heddle. 
47    ends    per    pattern,    39    repeats    of    pat- 
tern   plus    25    ends.      Start    at    *. 

16  blue  ends  per  pattern  times  39 
repeats  equals  624  plus  7  equals  631 
blue  ends. 

31  white  ends  per  pattern  times  39 
repeats  equals  1,209  plus  18  plus  32 
ends  selvage  equals  1,250  white  ends. 

631  blue  ends  l-26s  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  701  yards  equals  .513  ounces; 
1,250  white  ends  l-26s  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  1,388  yards  equals  1.001  ounces; 
54  picks  times  29  l-36s  filling  equals 
1,566  yards  equals  .828  ounces;  total, 
2.342  ounces. 

Finish,   wash,    size,   calender. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  fabric  known  as  fancy  shirting 
is  made  up  of  yarns,  the  counts  of 
which  vary  from  20s  to  60s,  according 
to  the  mills  making  them,  and  also 
according  to  the  grade  being  made 
For  the  particulars  that  will  be  de- 
scribed below  we  will  consider  that 
the  shirtings  are  made  up  of  1-263 
warp  and  l-40s  filling.  It  is  not  cus- 
tomary for  both  yarns  to  be  made  out 
of  the  same  length  of  staple  or  grade 
of  cotton,  although  in  some  instances 
this  may  be  done.  For  the  40s  yarn  a 
good  grade  of  raw  stock  of  about  1% 
inches  staple  should  be  used  and  for 
the  20s  yarn  a  cotton  of  about  1  1-16 
inch  staple  may  be  used  with  advan- 
tage. The  raw  stock  in  both  cases 
should  be  put  through  the  bale  break- 
er and  deposited  in  their  different 
bins,  being  allowed  to  stand  as  long 
as  possible  before  using.  This  is  for 
the  purpose  of  drying  out  the  cotton, 
as  it  is  easier  to  work  when  in  this 
condition.  An  opener  and  two  proc- 
esses of  picking  are  generally  used, 
although  it  is  the  custom  in  many 
mills  to  use  three  processes.  When  the 
latter  is  the  case,  the  particulars  given 


for  the  finisher  picker  may  be  used, 
except  that  the  speed  of  the  fan  is  not 
so  great,  also  that  the  laps  are  of  a 
little  lighter  weight.  The  hopper  of 
the  opener  should  be  kept  well  filled 
so  that  an  even  amount  of  cotton  will 
be  always  fed  to  the  feed  roll  of  the 
breaker  picker.  The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er (2  bladed  rigid  type)  should  be 
about  1,000  revolutions  per  minute; 
the  fan.  about  350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  speed  of  the  beater  of  the 
breaker  should  be  about  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute  and  for  the  finisher 
picker  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  gives  the  cotton  passing  through 
about  42  beats  per  inch.  The  weight 
of  lap  at  the  breaker  picker  is  40 
pounds,  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard.  At 
the  finisher  (and  intermediate  picker  if 
used)  the  doublings  are  four  into  one. 
The  roving  cut  waste  is  mixed  at  the 
back  of  the  finisher  picker  in  the  usual 
manner.  The  weight  of  the  laps  at  the 
delivery  end  of  the  finisher  picker  is 
35  pounds  for  the  longer  stapled  cot- 
ton and  39  pounds  for  the  shorter,  or 
a  121/^ -ounce  lap  for  the  filling  yarn 
and  a  14 1/^ -ounce  lap  for  the  warp 
yarn.  The  cards  are  set  about  the 
same  in  both  cases,  except  where  they 
are  required  to  be  set  according  to  the 
length  of  staple. 

The  draft  of  the  card  should  not 
exceed  100  for  the  warp  yarn  and 
should  not  be  less  than  100  for  the 
filling  yarn.  As  large  a  doffer  as  pos- 
sible should  be  used  with  both  stocks, 
and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be 
about  65  grains.  The  production  would 
be  750  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours 
for  the  filling  cotton  and  850  pounds 
for  the  warp  yarn.  Always  keep  the 
wire  sharp^  and  never  under  any  cir- 
cumstances allow  it  to  become  dull. 
Grind  cylinder  and  doffer  wire  at  least 
once  a  month  for  half  a  day  and  grind 
top  flats  twice  a  month  with  "dead 
roller."  Strip  cards  three  times  a  day, 
both  cylinder  and  doffer.  Some  over- 
seers strip  cylinders  twice  and  doffers 
three  or  four  times.  This,  they  claim, 
saves  time,  as  the  doffer  may  be  strip- 
ped while  running  and  the  sliver  is 
not  as  uneven  as  when  both  doffer  and 
cylinder  are  stripped  at  the  same 
time.    In  the  mills  making  fine  yarns 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


431 


it  is  the  general  custom  to  strip  three 
times  a  day.  Three  processes  of  draw- 
ing are  used  for  both  warp  and  filling. 
The  only  difference  made  in  these  ma- 
chines is  that  the  rolls  are  spread  dif- 
ferently for  the  different  lengths  of 
staple.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  should 
be  about  70  grains  in  both  cases. 

The  slubber  makes  this  sliver  into 
50  hank  roving,  the  standard  twist  be- 
ing obtained  by  multiplying  the  square 
of  the  hank  roving  by  the  constant  1. 
On  the  finer  classes  and  long  stapled 
cotton  the  front  top  rolls  of  the  slub- 
ber are  varnished,  but  this  class  of 
goods  does  not  require  this  to  be  done. 
The  roving  for  the  warp  yarns  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames, 
the  hank  at  the  first  intermediate  be- 
ing 1.50  and  at  the  second  interme- 
diate 3.  The  filling  roving  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames, 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  interme- 
diate being  2,  and  at  the  second  in- 
termediate 5.  The  twist  standard  is 
obtained  by  multiplying  the  square 
root  of  the  hank  by  1.1  for  both  cot- 
tons. Take  special  care  of  your  top 
rolls  to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect 
condition  and  not  channeled,  cut,  un- 
even, oil  soaked,  dry  at  the  bearings, 
loose  or  unevenly  weighted.  Look  out 
for  the  settings  at  all  fly  frame  rolls. 
The  roving  is  carried  to  the  spinning 
room,  where  it  is  drawn  into  the  re- 
quired count.  For  26s  count  warp  yarn 
a  frame  with  the  following  particulars 
may  be  used:  Gauge  of  frame  2| 
inches,  diameter  of  ring  1|  inches, 
length  of  traverse  G^^  inches,  twist 
per  inch  24  plus,  speed  of  spindle  9,- 
700  revolutions  per  minute.  For  a  fill- 
ing making  40s  the  particulars  have 
been  given  in  a  previous  lesson.  The 
warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and 
run  through  a  slasher. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

DARK  BLUE. 
5  per  cent  immedial  blue  C,  5  per 
cent  immedial  blue  CR.,  1  per  cent 
immedial  black  NN.,  10  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

DARK  GREEN. 
15  per   cent  thiogene  green   B.,   15 


per  cent  sodium   sulphide,  3  per  cent 
soda  ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
BLACK. 
15  per  cent  melanogen  black  G,  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent 
soda  ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
RED. 
6  per  cent  primuline,  diazotized  and 
developed  with  beta  naphthol. 
LAVENDER. 
%  per  cent  diamine  blue  3  R.  pat., 
after-treated  with  Vz  per  cent  sulphate 
of  copper  at  160  degrees  F. 
PINK. 
y2  per  cent  diamine  rose  BD.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ECRU. 
2    per    cent    katigen    yellow    brown 
GG.,   2   per   cent   sodium   sulphide,   20 
per   cent   Glauber's,   2   per   cent   soda 
ash. 

TAN. 

5  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  5  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  2  per  cent  soda  ash, 
20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT    GREEN 
on   a  tannin   and   tartar   emetic  mor- 
dant.  Dye  1/^  per  cent  thioflavine  T.  % 
per  cent  new  methylene  blue  GG. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 

2  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  2  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash,  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
VIOLET. 

1  per  cent  diamine  blue  3  R.  pat, 
after-treated  with  %  per  cent  sulphate 
of   copper   at   160   degrees  F. 


TAPE 


Tape  is  a  very  narrow  fabric,  com- 
posed of  either  cotton  or  linen  yarns 
in  warp  and  filling,  and  usually  made 
with  a  point  or  broken  twill  weave, 
the  break  in  the  weave  occurring  in 
the  center  of  tne  tape,  and  the  twill 
lines  running  in  a  right  and  left  hand 
direction. 

It  is  made  of  all  bleached  yarns.  It 
is  made  of  regular  yarns  about  1-263 
to  l-30s  and  l-40s  cotton  and  is  used 
as  a  trimming,  in  the  manufacture  of 
clothing,   also   as   a   binding  in   innu- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


merable  cases,  such  as  paper  boxes, 
etc.,  and  is  sold  by  the  roll,  each  roll 
containing  a  certain  number  of  yards 

A  fair  grade  of  tape  weighs  about  20 
yards   per   pound. 

This  fabric  is  woven  in  a  broad  loom 
having  a  light  dobby  head  motion  at- 
tached, similar  to  that  which  is  used 
on  a  haircloth  loom. 

In  weaving  this  fabric,  the  loom  is 
arranged  to  produce  several  rolls  at 
the  same  operation,  it  being  very  nar- 
row. There  are  perhaps  20  rolls  all 
weaving  at  once,  as  the  warp  yarn  for 


which   it   is   wound   into   rolls   and   is 
ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Reed,   1,650    minus    %    inches   width 
in  reed,  59  ends,  46  picks,   - — ^   point 
twill,  30  ends  minus  29  ends  left. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  used  to  make 
tape  vary  from  20s  to  40s,  according 
to  the  grade  of  tape  required.  In  this 
article  we  will  consider  the  warp  yarn 
to   be    l-36s     and    the     filling      l-40s. 


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Design. 

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Drawing-in  draft. 

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Reed   plan. 


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Weave 


each  roll  is  beamed  upon  a  small 
spool,  thereby  acting  independently  of 
every  other  roll  on  the  same  loom.  The 
warps  are  all  drawn  through  the  same 
harness  or  heddles,  which  are  worked 
from  the  dobby  motion. 

The  peculiar  and  important  part  of 
a  tape  loom  is  the  filling  arrangement 
or  shuttle  motion. 

Being  a  one-shuttle  fabric,  each 
warp  has  its  separate  shuttle,  all  the 
shuttles  being  operated  at  the  same 
time,  and  by  one  motion.  The  shuttle, 
in  traveling  from  one  box  to  its  mate, 
describes  a  half  moon  movement,  and 
this  is  accomplished  by  a  sliding  rod 
beneath  the  race  board,  and  so  set  that 
at  each  pick  of  the  loom  the  rod  moves 
from  left  to  right  and  on  the  next 
pick  right  to  left,  and  for  each  piece 
of  tape  being  woven  there  must  neces- 
sarily be  a  shuttle,  and  for  each  shut- 
tle there  is  an  attachment  placed  on 
the  aforesaid  rod  in  such  a  position 
that  the  rod  in  moving  causes  the  said 
attachment  to  move  the  shuttle  from 
one  box  to  the  other  in  the  same  di- 
rection as  the  rod  is  taking. 

Tape  requires  as  a  finish,  washing 
and    drying    on    the    cylinder,    after 


These  counts  of  yarn  would  be  made 
in  the  second  division  of  mills  as  giv- 
en in  a  previous  lesson.  For  this  fab- 
ric the  yarn  would  be  made  out  of 
a  medium-grade  cotton  of  from  1  to 
1  1-16  inches  in  length.  The  bales  of 
raw  stock  would  be  brought  to  the 
mixing  room  and  stapled,  and  those 
bales  of  the  same  length  of  staple 
would  be  opened  and  run  through  a 
bale  breaker  (if  the  mill  contained 
one,  or  through  a  willow,  or  it  may  be 
mixed  by  hand)  and  passed  by  suitable 
means  to 

THE  MIXING  BIN. 

It  should  be  allowed  to  stand  here  as 
long  as  possible,  so  that  the  cotton 
may  be  opened  up  to  the  air,  which 
dries  it,  and  makes  it  easier  to  work 
than  when  it  is  not  allowed  to  stand 
in  the  bins.  At  this  point  the  good 
waste  from  the  pickers,  cards  and 
drawing  frames  should  also  be  mixed 
in  with  the  raw  stock.  The  cotton  is 
then  put  through  an  opener  and  either 
two  or  three  processes  of  picking,  gen- 
erally two.  If  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing are  used,  the  intermediate  process 
presents  almost  the  same  particulars 
as    the    finisher    picker.     In    this    in- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


433 


stance,  we  will  consider  tliat  only 
two  processes  of  picking  are 
used.  The  hopper  should  be  kept 
as  nearly  full  as  possible,  so  that  an 
even  lap  may  be  made.  The  cotton  is 
fed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker 
picker,  and  after  passing  comes  under 
the  action  of  the  beater  which,  if  it  is 
a  rigid  two-bladed  type,  should  make 
about  1,450  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
speed  of  the  fan  being  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  about 
40  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The 
doublings  at  the  finisher  picker  are  4 
into  1.  The  speed  of  the  fan  should 
be  about  1,450  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  the  fan  1,100  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. This  gives  the  cotton  sheet  about 
42  beats  per  inch  fed.  Watch  your 
drafts.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  should  be  about  39  pounds  or  a 
141/^ -ounce  lap.  When  roving  waste  is 
mixed  with  the  raw  stock,  it  should 
first  be  put  through 

A   SPECIAL   PROCESS 

to  take  out  the  twist,  and  through  a 
breaker  picker  to  make  laps,  and  these 
laps  are  put  up  behind  the  finisher 
picker.  These  laps  are  mixed  with 
the  raw  stock  in  a  proportion  of  one 
lap  roving  waste  to  three  laps  of  raw 
stock.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card,  the  draft  of  which  should  not 
be  less  than  100.  In  speaking  of  cards 
we  refer  to  the  so-called  English  card 
and  not  the  American  card.  The  wire 
fillet  of  this  card  should  be  about  No. 
34  wire  on  cylinder  and  No.  35  wire 
on  doffer  and  flats.  This  is  equivalent 
to  110s  and  120s,  English  count,  and 
gives  79,200  points  per  square  inch 
for  cylinder  and  86,400  points  per 
square  inch  for  doffer  and  top  flats. 
Grind  the  wire  so  as  to  keep  it  sharp 
and   strip  three  times  a  day. 

THE  SLIVER 
at  the  front  of  the  card  should  weigh 
about  65  grains  per  yard  and  a   pro- 
duction of  800  pounds  should  be  turn- 
ed off  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 

Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  possible, 
either  a  26  or  27  inch  one.  The  sliver 
is  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames,  doubling  six  into  one, 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  400 


revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  weight 
of  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  70 
grains  to  the  yard.  Always  keep  a 
stock  of  freshly  varnished  rolls  on 
hand,  so  that  if  those  in  the  frames 
become  worn  or  damaged  in  any  way 
they  may  be  replaced  at  once.  All  the 
rolls  should  be  varnished  and  changed 
at  least  once  every  two  weeks.  Draw- 
ing frames  should  be  cleaned  at  least 
once  a  month.     The  settings  of 

THE  DRAWING  FRAME  ROLLS 
should  be  looked  after  frequently  to 
see  that  they  have  not  slipped.  The 
sliver  is  then  passed  to  the  slubber 
which  draws  and  twists  it  into  .50 
hank  roving.  Watch  your  leather  cov- 
ered rolls  to  see  that  they  are  per- 
fect. The  roving  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  the  first  intermediate  being 
1.50,  at  the  second  3.50  hank  and  at 
the  jack,  9  to  9.50  for  both  counts  of 
yarn,  the  doublings  being  two  into  one 
in  every  case.  Use  the  standard  mul- 
tiplier for  twist  previously  given.  The 
roving  is  then  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  and  made  into  the  required 
count.  The  particulars  for  a  warp  yam 
of  36s  count  are  as  follows:  Gauge 
of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
li  inches;  length  of  traverve,  6V2 
inches;  speed  of  spindle,  10,200  revo- 
lutions  per  minute. 


MERCERIZED  VESTING 

jNIercerized  vesting  is  either  a  light 
or  heavy  weight  cotton  wash  fabric 
weighing  from  5  to  8  ounces  per  yard 
finished,  and  is  made  of  one,  two  or 
three  warps  and  one  or  two  fillings. 
When  made  of  one  warp  and  filling,  a 
light  weight  can  be  produced  in  case 
the  warp  and  filling  are  both  mercer- 
ized yarns. 

The  warp  for  the  face  of  the  cloth 
ranges  from  2-20s  to  2-60s  mercerized 
cotton,  and  the  filling  from  1-lOs  to 
l-16s  cotton. 

The  styles  range  from  granite  and 
basket  weave  effects  in  solid  white,  to 
the  more  elaborate  figured  patterns, 
such  as  are  created  by  forming  spots 
on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  from  warp 
effect  diamond,  cross  and  curved  twill 
weaves,  so  arranged  as  to  scatter  the 


«34 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


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Harness    Chain. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


435 


design  in  regular  formation,  in  imita- 
tion of  jacquard  designs. 

ADDING  WEIGHT. 

The  extra  back  warp  is  for  the  p^ir- 
pose  of  adding  weight  to  tlie  fabric, 
also  permitting  greater  scope  in  face 
weave  effects,  the  idea  being  to  so  ar- 
range the  face  weave  as  to  thoroughly 
cover  the  coarse  filling,  the  back 
warp  binding  the  filling  into  the  cloth 
under  the  figure  floats  of  the  face 
weave. 

In  making  a  vesting  having  a  back 
warp,  always  use  a  two-ply  yarn  for 
this  warp,  as  a  single  yarn  will  bead 
in  the  weaving,  which  means  a  loss  of 
time  every  few  hours  in  removing 
same,  and  the  warp  will  not  shed  prop- 
erly when  the  yarn  is  beaded,  which 
causes  the  reed  to  cut  the  yarn.  The 
quickest  way  to  remove  the  beads 
from  the  yarn  in  the  shed  is  to  loosen 
the  top  of  the  reed  cap,  and  lay  the 
reed  upon  the  cloth.  The  beads  may 
then  be  either  cut  off,  or  drawn 
through  the  reed.  If  the  latter  method 
is  used,  the  beads  form  a  line  of  small 
lumps  upon  the  face  of  the  cloth,  from 
one  selvage  to  the  other.  \Vliile  this 
in  itself  is  not  a  serious  imperfection, 
it  means  that  the  cloth  must  be  cut  at 
this  point  to  remove  the  lumps,  which 
to  a  certain  extent  destroys  t  le  utility 
of  the  piece  in  manufacturing  the  gar- 
ments. 
EITHER   A   DOBBY    OR   JACQUARD. 

This  fabric  can  be  woven  on  either 
the  dobby  or  jacquard  loom.  Most  of 
the  popular  imported  jacquard  effects 
can  be  imitated  successfully  on  the 
dobby  loom,  having  either  single  or 
double  box  filling  motion.  It  is  best 
adapted  to  the  Knowles  Gem  Harness 
loom,  or  the  Fairmount,  4x1,  box 
loom,  having  the  Ingraham  head  mo- 
tion attached. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  cloth  goes 
from  the  loom  to  the  measuring  ma- 
chine, after  which  it  is  scoured,  dur- 
ing which  operation  the  goods  are  run 
through  a  solution  of  soap  and  cold 
water  to  remove  all  stains  such  as 
mill  dirt  and  grease  spots.  After  wash- 
ing it  is  calendered  or  pressed,  and 
each  piece  is  folded  and  doubled  up  in 
heavy  paper  and  tied  with  a  cheap  tape. 
It    is   then   ready   to   pack   and   ship. 


Reed   Plan.     Drawing-in  Draft. 


436 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


A  style  having  great  vogue  in  the 
spring  of  1904  was  a  mixed  effect,  pro- 
duced bj'  using  an  all  white  mercer- 
ized warp,  and  black  mercerized  fill- 
ing, the  ground  weave  being  1  up,  1 
down,  and  the  figure,  small,  double- 
headed  triangles. 

Reed,  700  minus  30  inches  in  reed  4 
ends  per  dent  in  reed;  2-20s  white 
mercerized  warp,  2-20s  black  mercer- 
ized filling;  48  picks.  Weight  about 
7%    ounces. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

62  ends  face  finished,  31  ends  back 
finished,  equals  93. 

1  square  inch  equals  3  grains;  60 
picks  finished;  29  x  36  equals  1,044  x 
3  equals  3,132  divided  by  1  equals  3,- 
132  divided  by  437.5  equals  7.16  ounces 
per  yard. 

^ — -   face  ends,  back  ends. 
30  inches  In  reed  including  selvage; 
29  inches  finished.  Scour  and  calender. 

16  pieces  mercerized  face  yarn  times 
3  inches  equals  48x7,000  equals  336,000 
divided  by  .95  grains  equals  353,684 
divided  by  36  equals  9,824.5  divided  by 
840  equals  11.69  or  2-20s  mercerized 
yarn. 

8  pieces  back  yarn  times  2  equals  16 
x7,000  equals  112,000  divided  by  .18 
equals  62,444  divided  by  36  equals  17,- 
345.5  divided  by  840  equals  20.64  or 
2-40s  back  warp  yarn. 

17  pieces  filling  yarn  times  2  equals 
34x7,000  equals  238,000  divided  by  .7 
equals  340,000  divided  by  36  equals  9,- 
444  divided  by  840  equals  11.24  or  l-12s 
filling   yarn. 

3  pieces  fancy  color  (spot)  yarn 
times  3  equals  9x7,000  equals  63,000 
divided  by  .1  equals  630,000  divided  by 
36  equals  17,500  divided  by  840  equals 
20.8  or  2-40s  extra  warp  (for  figuring) 
yarn. 

30  inches  in  reed,  30  dents  per  inch 
in  reed,  900  minus  10  splits  equals  891 
splits,  40  ends  2-40s  cotton  selvage,  76 
ends  in  repeat  of  pattern  equals  23 
repeats  plus  32  ends. 

1,780  ends  2-20s  mercerized  face 
ends,  890  ends  2-40s  cotton  back  ends, 
40  ends  2-40s  cotton  selvage  ends, 
94  ends  2-40s  cotton  colored  ends, 
equals  900  splits  or  30  inches  in  reed. 


3  1-3  per  cent  contraction  in  width 
in  weaving,  5  per  cent  take-up,  6  2-3 
per  cent  shrinkage  in  length  in  finish- 
ing. 

1,780  ends  plus  5  per  cent  take-up 
equals  1,873.7  yards,  2-20s  mercerized 
equals  3.568  ounces,  890  ends  plus  5 
per  cent  take-up  equals  936.8  yards  2- 
40s  cotton  equals  .892  ounces,  94  ends 
equals  94  yards  2-40s  cotton 
equals  .009  dunces,  40  ends  plus 
5  per  cent  take-up  equals  421 
yards  2-40s  cotton  equals  .04 
ounces,  56  ends  l-12s  filling  times  30 
inches  equals  1,680  yards  l-12s  cotton 
equals  2.666  ounces;  total,  7.175  ounces 
finished. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  required  to 
manufacture  the  fabric  under  descrip- 
tion would  be  made  in  the  third  or 
possibly  in  the  second  division  of 
mills,  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson. 
It  will  be  understood  that  a  great 
many  grades  of  fancy  vestings  are 
made  and  that  the  range  of  the  counts 
of  the  yarns  is  also  varied.  For  this 
article  we  will  consider  that  the  warp 
yarn  count  is  2-60s  and  that  the  fill- 
ing yarn  is  16s  count.  The  grade  of 
cotton  used  for  the  finer  count  should 
be  good  and  the  length  of  the  staple 
about  11  inches.  For  the  coarser  yarn 
a  cotton  with  the  staple  of  1  inch  may 
be  used.  The  two  different  cottons 
would  be 

TREATED  ALIKE 

up  to  a  certain  point  and  unless  other- 
wise noted  wiiat  is  said  may  be  ap- 
plied to  both  cottons.  The  cotton  raw 
stock  should  be  first  brought  to  the 
bale  breaker  and  there  stapled  and 
graded  by  the  overseer  and  all  bales 
not  up  to  the  proper  standard  laid 
aside.  Several  bales  should  be  open- 
ed and  placed  around  the  bale  break- 
er and  fed  to  this  machine  alternately; 
that  is,  first  a  section  from  one  bale 
and  then  a  section  from  another,  until 
all  the  cotton  is  fed,  and  not  one  bale 
fed  until  it  is  all  gone.  By  the  first 
method  a  more  even  mixing  is  obtain- 
ed. Two  processes  of  picking  and  an 
opener  are  generally  used,  and  after 
allowiag  the   cotton   to   stand   in   the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


437 


bins  as  long  as  possible,  where  the 
good  sliver  waste  from  the  cards,  sliv- 
er lap  and  ribbon  lap  machines, 
combs,  drawing  frames  and  slubber  is 

MIXED  WITH  THE  RAW  STOCK, 

the  cotton  is  fed  to  the  hopper  of  the 
opener.  This  machine  is  really  the 
first  machine  that  evens  the  cotton  so 
that  a  certain  weight  of  cotton  will  be 
delivered  for  a  certain  length.  In  or- 
der to  accomplish  this  the  hopper 
should  be  kept  as  nearly  full  as  pos- 
sible, so  that  the  lifting  apron  will  al- 
ways be  loaded.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  of  this  machine  is  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute,  having  a  fan 
speed  of  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  is  delivered  from  this  ma- 
chine to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker 
picker.  The  speed  of  a  rigid  two-blad- 
ed type  of  beater  should  be  about  1,- 
500  revolutions  per  minute,  the  fan 
speed  being  1,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute.   The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
delivered  at  the  front  should  be  about 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  for  the 
finer  counts  and  20  ounces  for  the 
coarser  counts.  The  laps  are  then  put 
up  at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  It  is  at  this  point  that 
the  cut-roving  waste  is  mixed  in,  this 
waste  having  gone  through  a  special 
process  to  take  out  the  twist.  Mix 
one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three  of  raw 
stock  laps.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
for  this  class  of  goods  should  not  ex- 
ceed 1,450  revolutions  per  minute  with 
a  fan  speed  of  about '  1,100  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  class  of 
goods  should  not  receive  more 
than  42  beats  per  inch,  and  for 
the  longer  staple  cotton  the  beats  per 
inch  should  be  dropped  to  32  to  36.  If 
the  cotton  receives  too  many  beats  it 
is  apt  to  put  neps  in  and  if  not  beaten 
enough,  the  dirt  will  not  be  taken  out. 
The 

STANDARD  WEIGHT 

of  the  finer  yarn  lap  should  be  about 
35  pounds,  or  about  12  ounces  per 
yard.  The  coarser  yarn  lap  should 
weigh  39  pounds,  or  about  14  ounces 
per  yard.  The  variation  from  the 
standard  weight  of  laps  should  not  be 
more  than  one-half  pound  either  way, 


and  laps  which  vary  more  than  this 
should  be  run  over.  The  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  card,  and  the  draft  for  the 
finer  count  should  not  be  less  than  100 
and  the  coarser  one  not  over  100. 
Close  settings  should  be  used  for  the 
60s  yarn,  and  some  overseers  speed  up 
the  top  flats  so  that  a  greater  amount 
of  waste  will  be  taken  out.  The  same 
wire  may  be  used  for  both  counts, 
i.  e.,  34s  (American  number)  for  cyl- 
inder and  35  or  36s  for  top  fiats  and 
doffer.  LTse  as  large- a  doffer  as  pos- 
sible. In  the  longer  staples  some  over- 
seers slow  down  the 

SPEED  OF  THE  LICKER-IN. 

They  say  that  the  speed  of  this  part 
is  too  fast  for  long  staples,  and  it 
tends  to  put  neps  into  the  cotton.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  for  the  60s  yarn 
should  be  about  50  grains,  and  for  the 
16s  about  65  grains  per  yard.  The  pro- 
duction for  the  finer  yarn  is  500 
pounds  per  week  of  80  hours,  and  for 
the  coarser  yarn  65  grains  per  yard. 
Strip  cards  three  times  a  day,  al- 
though some  overseers  strip  the  dof- 
fer four  times.  The  sliver  for  the  finer 
yarn  is  combed  and  the  coarser  yarn 
goes  direct  to  the  drawing  frame.  We 
will  first  follow  the 

COURSE  OF  THE  COTTON 
for  the  60s  yarn.  It  is  first  put  through 
the  sliver  lap  machine,  the  doublings 
being  14  into  1,  the  weight  of  the  lap 
being  300  grains  per  yard.  Six  of 
these  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine,  the  weight  of  lap  at 
front  being  260  grains  per  yard.  The 
laps  are  then  put  up  at  the  comber, 
the  doublings  being  generally  six  into 
one,  although  eight  into  one  is  some- 
times used.  The  speed  of  the  comber 
should  be  about  90  nips  per  minute, 
draft  29,  percentage  of  waste  taken 
out  18,  and  the  weight  of  the  sl.iver 
about  45  grains  per  yard.  This  sliver 
is  then  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  doublings  being  6  into 
1.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  frames  is  70  grains  per 
yard.  See  that  your  drawing  frames 
are  well  oiled,  the  top  rolls  being  oiled 
twice  a  day.  but  also  see  that  no  oil 
gets  on  the  leather.  See  that  all 
weights  are  properly  adjusted  and  the 


438 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


trumpet  holes  the  right  size,  also  that 
the  stop  motions  are  all  adjusted 
properly.  The  sliver  is  then  passed  to 
the  slubber,  where  it  is  drawn  into 
.50     hank    roving.      It     then     passes 

THROUGH  THREE  PROCESSES 

of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  the  first  interme- 
diate being  1.50,  and  the  second 
4.00  hank,  and  at  the  jack  frame  13 
hank.  The  sliver  for  16s  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing,  the  weight 
of  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  being 
70  grains  per  yard,  the  hank  roving 
at  the  slubber  .50.  This  roving  is  only 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  being  made 
at  the  first  about  1.50,  at  the  second 
4.00  hank.  The  doublings  in  all  cases 
are  2  into  1.  The  roving  is  passed  to 
the 

RING  SPINNING  ROOM, 

when  it  is  made  into  60s  count.  The 
following  particulars  would  be  used 
for  a  frame  spinning  this  count: 
Gauge  of  spindles,  2|  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1  5-16  inches;  length  of  trav- 
erse, 5  inches;  revolutions  per  minute 
of  spindles,  10,000;  twist  per  inch,  34.- 
68.  For  filling,  either  mule  or  ring 
frames  may  be  used.  If  ring  frames 
are  employed,  use  the  following  par- 
ticulars: Gauge  of  spindle,  22  inches; 
diameter  of  ring.  lYz  inches;  length 
of  traverse,  6i^  inches.  The  warp  yam 
is  then  twisted  into  2-ply  60s  at  the 
twister,  then  spooled  and  put  into  the 
warper,  where  it  is  warped  on  beams, 
and  from  here  is  passed  to  the 
slasher. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particulars 
for  mercerized  vesting: 

Dyed  mercerized  yarn  for  spots. 
RED. 

Turkey  red,  or  primuline  red,  primu- 

6  per  cent  primuline  red,  30  per  cent 
line  red  dyeing. 

Glauber's,  diazotized  IVz  pounds  ni- 
trate soda,  5  pounds  sulphuric  acid  de- 
veloped, two  pounds  beta  naphthol, 
well  rinsed  and  soaped  twice  and  rins- 
ed in  hot  water. 


SKY   BLUE. 

5  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well, 
and  give  a  soap  bath,  rinse  well  and 
dry. 

NAVY  BLUE., 

8  per  cent  immedial  dark  blue  B.,  8 
per  cent  sulphide  soda,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well, 
soap  and  rinse  in  hot  water,  and  dry. 

BROWN. 
10  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  and 
soap  as  above  blue. 

DARK  GREEN. 
10  per  cent  katigen  dark  green  2B., 

2  per  cent  katigen  blue  black  B.,  2  per 
cent  katigen  yellow  GG.,  14  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 

3  per  cent  soda  ash,  rinse  and  soap  as 
above. 

OLIVE. 
8  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  G.,  8  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  and 
soap  as  above. 

MAROON. 
10  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G., 
10   per  cent   sodium   sulphide,   28   per 
cent  Glauber's,   3   per  cent  soda  ash, 
rinse  and  soap  as  above. 
BLACK. 
15  per  cent  immedial  black  NN.,  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  rinse 
and  soap  as  above. 

♦-♦-♦ 


JEAN 


Jean  is  a  narrow,  hard-faced  cotton 
fabric,  weighing  from  4  to  4i/^  ounces 
per  yard,  and  is  usually  made  of  a 
hard-twisted  warp  yarn,  about  l-20s 
cotton,  and  either  a  wool  or  a  wool 
shoddy  filling.  The  fabric  is  made  with 
a    small,    uneven-sided    twill    weave, 

warp    effect   face,   viz.:  z 45°  twill, 

the  cloth  being  of  a  slate  black  color. 

Jean  is  used  principally  in  the  man- 
ufacture of  ready-to-wear  trousers,  re- 
tailing at  85  cents  to  $1  per  pair,  for 
workmen  who    perform    hard,    rough 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


439 


and  dirty  work,  and  who  do  not  wear 
overalls.  For  this  purpose  it  is  the 
most  serviceable  fabric  on  the  market, 
the  garment  when  worn  being  popu- 
larly known  as  Kentucky  jean,  which 
has  this  distinct  advantage,  that  upon 


□saDBBDHaBa 

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aaBflDBBDBBDB 

DBB;3BBaaaaaa 

BBDBBaBBDBBD 
BnBBDBBDBBDB 
□BBDBBDBBDBB 
BBnBBDBBaBlig 

BDBBDBBDJBg" 
DVBaBBDBBgBB 
BBDBBnBBDBBa 
BDBBaBBDBBGB 


nnBDnBDnBDCB 
r'BDaBnnBDaBD 
aaDBaoBaaBDa 

Drawing-in  Draft 


D.GBBGDBBDOBI 

■.BDDBBDaBBDC 

Reed  Plan 


its  becoming  soiled,  a  good  washing 
will  readily  cleanse  and  remove  all 
dirty  marks,  and  apparently  toughen 
the  cloth,  although  causing  it  to  shrink 
somewhat. 

"KENTUCKY  JEANS" 
are  worn  by  laborers,  railroaders, 
moulders,  machinists,  loom  fixers,  gen- 
eral male  mill  help,  etc.,  and  with 
a  small  amount  of  care  will  wear  well 
for  two  or  three  years. 

Jean  is  made  with  one  warp  and  one 
filling,  and  can  be  woven  in  any  single 
box  loom. 

The  warp  yarn  is  generally  of  a 
cheap  grade  of  cotton,  and  receives 
about  two  extra  turns  of  twist  per 
inch,  in  excess  of  the  required  amount 
of  twist  in  the  regular  yarn  of  a  sim- 
ilar count.  It  is  this  fact  which  causes 
jean  as  a  fabric  to  have  such  a  hard 
feel. 

The  filling  is  usually  a  mixture,  con- 
taining about  40  per  cent  cotton  and 
60  per  cent  wool  shoddy,  the  yarn  be- 
ing spun  on  the  woolen  principle. 

The  wool  shoddy  is  made  by  picker- 
ing  and  carding  dark  colored  woolen 
rags,  after  which  the  cotton  and  shod- 
dy are  made  into  a  mixing  of  relative 
proportions  and  the  lot  run  through  the 
mixing  picker.  The  stock  is  then  card- 
ed and  spun,  the  yarn  receiving  suf- 
ficient filling  twist,  the  result  being  a 
dark  colored,  lofty  thread,  a  suitable 
filling  for  this  fabric  jean. 

The  warp  is  dyed  a  rather  grayish 
black,  with  cheap  dry  color,  and  the 
warp  and  filling  colors  combined  in 
the  weaving  produce  a  fabric  of  a  de- 
cidedly  slate    black   appearance. 

Jean    receives   a    dry   finish,    being 


brushed,    sheared    and   pressed,    after 
which  it  is  rolled  or  lapped,  then  pack- 
ed into  cases,  for  shipment. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed  800 — 30 1^  inches  plus  2  ends 
per  dent,  10  per  cent  take-up  in  weav- 
ing, 36  picks  l-20s  cut  wool  shoddy, 
l-20s  cotton  warp. 

Finish  equals  27  inches. 

44.4  X  30^  equals  1,354  ends  plus  10 
per  cent  equals  1,480  yards  l-20s  cot- 
ton warp  equals  1.41  ounces.  Warp, 
36  picks  times  30^  equals  1,098  yards, 
l-20s  cut  wool  shoddy  equals  2.92 
ounces  filling. 

1.41  ounces  warp,  2.92  ounces  filling 
equals  4.33  ounces. 

4.33  ounces  weight,  27  inches  wide. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarn  used  for  this  class  of  goods 
is  constructed  bv  two  entirely  different 
systems.  The  filling  is  generally  com- 
posed of  a  mixture  of  wool  or  wool 
shoddy  and  cotton.  The  filling  yarn  is 
therefore  made  in  a  woolen  mill.  It  is 
understood  that  entirely  different  ma- 
chines are  used,  and  the  method  of 
mixing  is  entirely  different  from  that 
used  in  a  cotton  mill,  although  the 
names  of  the  machines  in  many  in- 
stances are  alike.  The  warp  yarn  is 
made  of  all-cotton  stock  and  is  there- 
fore spun  into  yarn  in  a  cotton  mill, 
and  below  will  be  found  the  carding 
and  spinning  particulars  for  making 
this  count  of  yarn  of  jean  fabric.  Of 
course,  these  may  and  are  deviated 
from  in  many  mills,  but  not  to  any 
great  extent. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 
generally  used  is  of  a  low  grade  and 
about  one  inch  in  staple.  This  class 
of  yarn  is  spun  in  mills  of  the  first  di- 
vision, as  given  in  a  previous  lesson, 
and  the  mixing  would  be  done  by 
hand.  The  bales  of  cotton  would  be 
sampled,  and  all  those  of  the  same 
length  put  into  the  mixing  bin.  Fo" 
this  class  of  goods  a  small  percentage 
of  comber  waste  is  sometimes  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock,  and  some  mills 
use  the  card  waste.  The  percentage 
is  generally  small,  however.  The  goo  1 
waste  from  the  pickers,  cards  and 
drawing  frames   is  always   used   and 


440 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


mixed  at  this  point.  The  raw  stock  is 
run  through  an  opener  and  two  proc- 
esses of  picking. 

The  liopper  should  always  be  kept 
full.  The  speed  of  the  beater  should 
be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
the  fan  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  speed  of  the  breaker  picker  beat- 
er is  about  1,500  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  fan  speed  being  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute. 

THE   WEIGHT    OF   LAP 

at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  abojit 
40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard. 
The  doubling  at  the  finisher  picker  is 
four  into  one  and  the  speed  of  the 
beater  (two-bladed  rigid  type)  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  which  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  it  about  42 
beats  per  inch.  The  speed  of  the  fan 
is  about  1,100  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  the  total  lap  is  about  39 
pounds,  or  14 1^  ounces  to  the  yard. 
Clean  out  from  under  the  pickers  fre- 
quently, so  that  the  fly  will  not  col- 
lect and  be  drawn  back  into  the  good 
clean  cotton  passing  through. 

The  draft  of  this  picker  should  be 
about  2.75.  The  laps  are  then  put  up 
at 

THE  CARD. 

This  machine  should  not  have  a 
draft  of  more  than  100.  The  doffer 
should  be  as  large  as  possible  and  the 
wire  fillet  used  should  be  No.  33  wire 
(American  count)  for  cylinder  and  No. 
34  for  doffer  and  flats.  The  flats  make 
one  revolution  about  every  45  min- 
utes. The  cards  should  be  stripped 
three  times  a  day  and  ground  once  a 
month.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  65  grains  to  the  yard,  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be  between  950  and  1,000 
pounds.  This  sliver  is  then  run 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES 
of  drawing  frames.  The  settings  used 
at  one  mill  for  this  stock  and  staple 
are  as  follows:  Front  roll  to  second, 
1%,  second  to  third,  lyi,  and  third  to 
back,  lYz  inches.  The  doublings  at 
this  machine  are  six  into  one  and  the 
speed  of  the  front  roller  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  draft  at  the 
finisher  machine  is  about  5.75.     The 


weight  of  the  sliver  should  be  about 
75  grains  per  yard.  The  drawing 
sliver  should  be  sized  at  least  twice  a 
day  and  four  times  would  be  much 
better. 

The  sliver  is  then  drawn  into  .50 
hank  roving  by  the  slubber  and  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing being  as  follows:  1.50  at  the  first 
intermediate,  3.50  at  the  second,  and 
8.00  at  the  jack  frame.  The  usual  care 
should  be  given  to  tlie  rolls,  etc.,  and 

THE  ROVING 
at  the  jack  frame  should  be  sized  once 
a  day.  The  roving  is  then  put  through 
a  warp  spinning  frame,  the  particulars 
being  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame,  2| 
inches;  diameter  of  rings,  two  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  seven  inches.  This 
yarn  is  hard  twisted  and  receives 
about  two  complete  turns  more  per 
inch  than  are  usually  used  for  cloth 
j^arn;  that  is,  the  regular  twist  per 
inch  for  this  count  is  21.24  turns  per 
inch,  but  for  this  cloth  is  23.24.  The 
speed  of  the  spindle  is  about  9,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
taken  to  the  spoolers  and  spooled 
from  the  spools,  is  warped  and  put 
through  the  slasher.  A  good  sizing  is 
made  as  follows:  Water,  100  gallons; 
potato  starch,  70  pounds;  tallow,  four 
pounds;    turpentine,  one  pint. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
DARK    SLATE. 
21/^     pounds     thion     black     G.,     2i^ 
pounds    sulphide    sodium,    one    pound 
soda  ash,  20  pounds  salt. 
BLACK. 
15  pounds  thion  black  G.,  15  pounds 
sulphide   sodium,   three    pounds    soda 
ash,  30  pounds  salt. 


CRETONNE 

Cretonne  is  a  light-weight  single 
cloth,  all-cotton  fabric,  weighing  from 
2  to  5  ounces  per  yard,  and  composed 
of  yarns  ranging  from  l-40s  to  l-20s 
in  the  warp  and  l-20s  to  l-7s  in  the 
filling. 

It  is  usually  woven  with  either  the 

plain   weave    ? — -^      - — -„,   twill   45   de- 
gree, or  a  fancy  effect  resembling  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


441 


granite  weave,  such  as  is  used  as  a 
foundation  weave  in  dress  goods.  The 
fabric  is  woven  witli  either  an  all 
bleached  or*  gray  cotton  warp  and  fill- 
ing, the  patterns  being  fancy  stripes 
and  allover  floral  effects  printed  in 
bright  colors  upon  one  side  of  the 
goods. 

This  gives  the  printed  or  face  side 
of  the  fabric  somewhat  the  appear- 
ance of  an  elaborately  figured  jac- 
quard  design.  Those  colors  found  most 
effective   for   this   purpose  are   bright 


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Drawing-in-Draft 

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Harness  chain   same  as  design. 

and  medium  shades  of  red,  blue,  green, 
yellow,  etc.,  and  a  good  jet  black. 

Cretonne  is  made  in  widths  from  25 
to  36  inches,  the  narrow  grades  being 
the  lightest  in   weight. 

The   various   grades    are    used    for 
couch   covers,    draperies,   lambrequins 
and  comfortables   or  bed   quilts. 
THE  WEAVING. 

Being  a  one-shuttle  fabric,  plain 
weave  or  twilled,  cretonne  can  be  wo- 
ven on  the  siiigle  box  loom.  The  fancy 
grades  in  which  mixed  weaves  are  de- 
sired necessitate  the  use  of  looms  with 
a  dobby  or  head  motion  attached.  The 
warp  for  cretonne,  being  either  gray 
or  bleached  yarn,  is  prepared  in  a 
manner  similar  to  that  of  weaving  a 
plain  ordinary  sheeting. 

Those  grades  in    which    the    plain 

weave  or twill  weave  are  used 

are  drawn  in  and  woven  upon  four 
harnesses.  If,  however,  a  fancy  weave 
is  desired,  the  warp  must  be  drawn  in 
and  woven  upon  a  number  of  har- 
nesses, in  accordance  with  the  num- 
ber of  ends  in  one  repeat  of  weave  de- 
sired. 

As  printing  the  colored  pattern  upon 
this  fabric  constitutes  the  finish  there- 
of, the  goods  are  taken  from  the 
loom    and   run    through   the   brushing 


machine,   to  remove   all  dust,   dirt  or 
loose   ends. 

THE  FIGURED  PATTERN 
to  be  produced  upon  the  cloth  has 
been  engraved  upon  bronze  rollers, 
which  have  been  set  up  in  the  printing 
machine.  The  colors  are  fed  automati- 
cally to  the  rollers,  which,  in  revolv- 
ing, register  the  colors  upon  the  face 
of  the  cloth,  as  it  passes  between 
them.  The  cloth  is  then  dried  by  be- 
ing run  through  heated  rollers  or 
drums,  and  the  fabric  is  then  ready  to 
be  folded  into  suitable  lengths  to  be 
packed  and  shipped. 

Four  square  inches  equals  7.95 
grains. 

29  X  36  equals  1,044  x  7.95  equals  8,- 
299.80  divided  by  4  equals  2,074.95  di- 
vided by  437.5  equals  4.742  ounces  per 
yard,  29  inches  wide. 

20  pieces  white  warp  yarn  x  2i^ 
inches  equals  50  inches  equals 
.55  grains,  50  x  7,000  equals  350,000  di- 
vided by  .55  equals  836,363  divided  by 
36  equals  17,399  divided  by  840  equals 
l-20s  cotton  warp  yarn. 

12  pieces  white  filling  yarn  times  4 
inches  equals  48  inches  equals  1.55 
grains. 

48  X  7,000  equals  336.000  divided  by 
1.55  equals  216,774  divided  by  36 
equals  6,021.5  divided  by  840  equals 
l-7s  cotton  filling  yarn. 

15  cents  per  yard,  29  inches  finished. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  900  minus  30  1-3  inches  minus 
2  ends  per  dent,  52  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished, 40  picks  per  inch  finished 
equals  50  ends  in  reed,  38  picks  in 
loom,  10  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving. 

52  X  29  equals  1,508  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  1,675  yards  l-20s  cotton  warp 
yarn,  40  x  29  equals  1,160  yards  l-7s 
cotton  filling  yarn,  1,675  yards,  l-20s 
cotton  warp  equals  1,595  ounces,  1,160 
yards,  l-7s  cotton  filling  equals  3.156 
ounces   equals   4.751   ounces. 

10  cents  per  yard,  25%  inches  qual- 
ity    - -  twill,     four     square     inches 

equals  3.9  grains. 

25%    X    36   equals   909    x    3.9    equals 
3545.1  divided  by  4  equals  886.2  divid 
ed   by   437.5   equals   2.025   ounces   per 
yard,  25%  inches  wide. 


442 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  division  of  mills  making  cre- 
tonnes would  be  the  second  (or  those 
mills  equipped  with  machinery  for 
making  yarns  the  counts  of  which  vary 
from  20s  to  80s).  The  counts  of  yarn 
used  for  cretonne  vary  from  l-20s  to 
l-40s  warp  and  from  l-7s  to  l-20s  fill- 
ing, according  to  the  quality  of  cre- 
tonne required.  In  speaking  of  the 
second  division  of  mills  we  do  not 
mean  to  say  that  the  count  of  yarn  is 
always  within  these  limits,  but  that 
when  buying  machinery,  the  specifica- 
tions for  the  different  machines  are 
made  out  according  to  whether  the 
machines  are  to  use  low,  medium  or  a 
fine  grade  of  raw  stock.  Of  bourse,  it 
often  happens  that  yarns  of  a  lower 
or  higher  count  are  made  on  this  ma- 
chinery, but  the  great  bulk  of  the 
yarns  turned  off  are  within  the  limits. 
For  example,  take  cretonne:  All 
grades  of  cretonne  may  be  made  in 
the  same  mill,  although  the  count  of 
the  yarn  varies  from  7s  to  40s,  or  in 
some  cases  even  a  finer  yarn  than  this 
is  used.  For  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider that  the  filling  yarn  is  l-20s  and 
the  warp  yarn  is  l-40s.  The  length 
of  staple  used  would  be  from  1  1-16  to 
li  inches  of  a  medium  grade  of  cot- 
ton. The  bales  of  raw  stock  would 
first  be  sampled  and  several  bales  of 
practically  the  same  length  of  staple 
placed  around  the  bale  breaker  and 
fed  to  this  machine  in  small  portions 
alternately  from  each  bale.  In  this 
manner  it  is  mixed  better  than  if  one 
entire  bale  was  fed. 

If  a  bale  breaker  is  not  used  the 
method  would  be  just  the  same  except 
that  it  would  be  done  by  hand.  The 
lower  count  would  use  cotton  of  a 
length  of  1  inch  and  the  higher  count 
li  inches.  Both  cottons  would  be  put 
through  an  opener  and  two  processes 
of  picking.  Keep  your  hopper  of  the 
opener  well  filled  (over  half  full).  The 
speed  of  the  beater  for  both  grades  of 
cotton  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  the  speed  of  the  fan 
about  350  revolutions  per  minute.  See 
that  your  pin  roller  is  always  clean, 
because  if  the  cotton  is  allowed  to  ac- 
cumulate, it  cannot  perform  its  duty 
properly.    The   cotton    is    fed    to   the 


feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  beater  and 
passed  on  to  the  beater,  the  speed  of 
which  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  a  rigid  two-bladed 
type.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  should  be  about  40  pounds, 
or  16  ounces  to  the  yard  for  both  cot- 
tons. The  laps  are  doubled  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  four  into  one,  the  cut  rov- 
ing being  mixed  in  at  this  point  in  the 
proportion  of  three  laps  of  raw  stock 
to  one  of  bobbin  waste.  The  speed  of 
the  beater  should  be  about  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute  with  a  fan  speed 
of  1,100  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through  about 
42  beats  per  inch.  See  that  the  grid 
bars  under  the  beaters  are  properly 
set.  The  total  weight'  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  should  be  39  pounds  for  the 
shorter  staple  cotton  and  35  pounds 
for  the  longer,  or  a  14-ounce  lap  for 
the  1-inch  staple  and  12 1/^ -ounce  lap 
for  the  1%-inch  staple  cotton. 

Keep  the  picker  room  clean  and  al- 
ways calculate  to  have  enough  laps  of 
each  kind  of  cotton  ahead  so  that  if 
breakdowns  occur  the  cards  will  not 
be  stopped  for  want  of  laps.  The  draft 
of  the  finisher  picker  is  about  3.  The 
cards  should  be  set  as  before  de- 
scribed in  a  previous  lesson,  except 
that  the  feed  plate  should  be  set  to 
the  licker-in,  according  to  the  length 
of  the  staple.  Cards  should  be  strip- 
ped three  times  a  day  and  ground  at 
least  once  a  month.  The  wire  fillet 
should  be  made  of  34  wire  (or  110s 
English  count)  for  cylinder  and  35  (or 
120s  English  count)  for  doffer  and  flats. 
Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  possible,  say 
26  inches  at  least.  The  draft  of  the 
card  should  be  about  100  for  both 
stocks.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  of  the  card  should  be  about 
65  grains.  The  production  should  be 
825  pounds  for  the  shorter  staple  and 
600  pounds  for  the  longer  one  for  a 
week  of  60  hours.  The  card  sliver  is 
next  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames.  A  few  of  the  more 
particular  points  to  look  out  for  are, 
scour  the  frames  at  least  once  a 
month,  keep  your  leather  top  rolls  in 
perfect  condition  and  well  oiled  and 
varnished.  See  that  all  knock-off  mo- 
tions are  in  working  order  to  prevent 
single  and  double;  keep  the  weight  of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


443 


your  sliver  uniform  by  sizing  it  at 
least  twice  a  day  and  tliree  times  a 
day  for  fine  yarns,  doubling  six  into 
one  at  all  frames.  The  weiglit  of  the 
sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  should 
be  about  70  grains  per  yard.  The  draw- 
ing sliver  is  drawn  into  .50  hank  rov- 
ing at  the  slubber,  the  standard  twist 
being  found  by  multiplying  the  square 
root  of  hank  by  1.  The  roving  for  the 
20s  yarn  goes  through  two  processes 
of  fly  frames,  the  hank  at  the  first  in- 
termediate being  2  and  at  the  second 
5  hank.  The  40s  yarn  roving  is  put 
through  three  processes,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
first,  1.50;  second,  3.50,  and  third,  9 
to  9.50  hank,  the  doulalings  at  all 
frames  being  two  into  one.  The  sliver 
is  then  passed  to  the  spinning  room. 
In  case  the  filling  yarn  is  spun  on  a 
ring  frame  the  following  would  be  good 
particulars  for  the  frame  spinning 
20s:  Gauge  of  frame  2|  inches;  diam- 
eter of  ring,  iy2  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  6i^  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
7,300  revolutions  per  minute;  twist  per 
inch,  14.50;  and  for  a  warp  frame 
spinning  40s:  gauge  of  frame,  2i 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  6i^  inches;  twist, 
28.45.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  run  through  a  slasher. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
RED. 
5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  BS.,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda. 
YELLOW. 
2   per  cent    chrysophenine,   30    per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LIGHT   BLUE. 

1  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF.,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

1  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  FF., 

1   per  cent  diamine   sky  blue  PF.,  30 

per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

ORANGE. 

2  per  cent    tetrazo    orange    CR.,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

MAROON. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  corinth  G.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 


HELIOTROPE. 
3    per   cent   heliotrope   BB.,    30   per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda.  On 
a   tannin   and   tartar   emetic   mordant 
dye  the  four  following  shades: 
MALACHITE  GREEN. 
2  per  cent  malachite  green;  also  for 

MEDIUM   BLUE. 
2  per  cent  methylene  blue. 

PINK. 
1  per  cent  rhodamine  5G. 
PURPLE. 

1  per  cent  methyl  violet  3B. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent  thion  black  G.,   15   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  5  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  salt. 

SLATE. 

2  per  cent  thion  black  G.,  2  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30   per   cent   salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

8  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  8  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  salt. 

DARK  BROWN. 

12  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  Vz  per 
cent  tnion  black  G.,  12  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  30  per 
cent  salt. 

Cretonnes  are  also  printed  with  very 
large  picture  designs  of  very  bright 
colors,  of  very  strong  contrast,  gener- 
ally. Some  styles  are  of  a  simple 
character  with  small  flowers  and  twigs 
on  a  white   or  cream-colored  ground. 

Other  styles  are  of  startling  reds 
and  other  bright  colors,  on  a  dark 
brown,  maroon  or  black  ground,  or  on 
any  dark  colored  ground  to  make  a 
contrast. 

The  colors  are  printed  with  fast 
alizarine  or  tannin  colors,  which  will 
be  fast  to  sunlight  and  washing. 
Brightness  of  shade  is  required  in 
most  cases. 

♦-•-♦ 


SILESIA 


Silesia  is  a  light-weight  single  cloth 
fabric,  having  a  rather  high  texture, 
and  weighing  about  three  ounces  per 
yard.     It   is   composed   of   all    cotton 


444 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


yarns  l-30s  to  l-40s  in  warp  and  flU 

ing  and  is  usually  made  with  a  ? 45 

degree  right-hand  twill  weave.  It  is 
used  principally  as  a  lining  for  la- 
dies' and  men's  clothing.   A 

VERY    IMPORTANT    FEATURE 

in  connection  with  this  fabric  is  the 
highly  glazed  or  polished  face  of  the 
goods,  which   is  due   to  the  action  of 


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■■aHaaaBDBaa 

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□BBDBBGBBQBB 
BBaBBDBBDBBa 
BGBBDBBOBBOB 
nBBDBBDBBaBB 
BBOBBaBBaBBO 
BDBBJBBDBBDB 
Weave 

DOBnoBanBDnB 

DBDDBQDBaDBn 
■DnBDDBaDBDa 

BrawiDg-in  Draft 

anDBBBODDBBB 

■BBaDDBBBDOa 

Keed  Flan 


the  heated  roller  in  the  calendering 
machine  upon  the  sizing,  which  the 
goods  have  absorbed  in  the  process  of 
finishing,  just  previous  to  the  calen- 
dering operation. 

One  of  the  most  important  features 
in  obtaining  the  highly  glazed  surface 
on  many  of  these  lining  fabrics  is  the 
use  of  a  special  kind  of  calender  roll 
when  the  fabrics  are  being  finished. 
This  calender  roll  contains  very  small 
fine  lines  which  are  impressed  into  the 
fabric,  and  which  is  usually  known  as 
milling.  The  reason  this  process  cre- 
ates a  luster  is  because  the  fine  lines 
create  more  surfaces  in  the  fabric,  and 
reflect  the  light  in  a  better  manner. 
By  examining  many  of  these  cloths 
with  a  magnifying  glass  the  very  fine 
lines  can  be  seen  clearly  impressed 
upon  the  various  strands  of  yarn 
which  form  the  fabric. 

Silesia  is  woven  of  yarn  in  the  gray 
state  and  is  dyed  in  the  piece,  in  such 
colors  as  black,  dark  blue,  brown, 
slate,  drab,  steel,  etc.  It  is  woven  on 
any  single  box  loom. 

The  warp  is  made  upon  a  warping 
mill,  and  beamed  upon  a  slasher.  It 
is  then  ready  to  be  drawn  in  on  cot- 
ton harness,  and  woven  in  a  manner 
similar  to  a  drill. 


The  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom 
and  brushed,  then  run  through  a  solu- 
tion of  soap  and  cold  water  to  re- 
move all  dirt,  after  which  they  are 
rinsed  in  cold  water. 

The  goods  are  now  dyed  in  the 
piece,  after  which  they  are  sized,  then 
tentered  to  keep  from  shrinking  in 
width,  also  to  dry  the  cloth.  After  ten- 
tering,  the  goods  are  run  through  the 
calender  to  produce  the  smooth,  glaz- 
ed finish  upon  the  face  of  the  cloth. 
The  finished  fabric  is  then  ready  to 
prepare  for  packing  and  shipping. 

Four  square  inches  equals  5.4 
grains. 

27  X  36  equals  972  x  5.4  equals 
5.248.8  divided  by  4  equals  1,- 
312.2  divided  by  437.5  equals 
three  ounces  per  yard,  27  inches  wide 
finished. 

24  pieces  warp  yarn  times  li/^  inches 
equals  36  inches  equals  .3  grains;  36  x 
7,000  equals  252,000  divided  by  .3 
equals  840,000  divided  by  36  equals  23,- 
333  divided  by  840  equals  l-28s  warp. 

30  pieces  filling  yarn  times  IV2 
inches  equals  45  inches  equals  .33 
grains;  45  x  7,000  equals  315,000  divid- 
ed by  .33  equals  924,242  divided  by  36 
equals  25,673  divided  by  840  equals 
1-30S   filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  1,012  minus  28.7  inches  in 
reed  minus  three  ends  per  dent,  90 
ends  per  inch  finished  and  72  picks 
per  inch  finished,  equals  86  ends  in 
reed  and  69  picks  in  loom. 

10  per  cent  take-up  on  warp  in 
weaving  6  per  cent  size  on  warp  in 
weaving. 

l-28s  cotton  warp,  l-30s  cotton  fill- 
ing. 

Color — slate  or  drab. 

90  X  27  equals  2,430  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  2,700  yards  l-28s  cotton  warp, 
72  X  27  equals  1,944  yards  l-30s  cot- 
ton filling. 

2,700  yards  l-28s  cotton  warp  equals 
1.837  ounces,  1,944  yards  l-30s  cotton 
filling  equals  1.234  ounces,  equals  3.- 
071  ounces. 

Finish  equals  brush  and  calender. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


445 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  used  in  making  silesia 
vary  from  30s  to  40s.  These  counts 
of  yarn  would  be  made  in  a  mill  of 
the  second  division,  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  Mills  making  this  class 
of  goods  are  now  generally  equipped 
with  a  bale  breaker.  After  the  cotton 
is  stapled  and  the  bales  sorted  out, 
according  to  the  length  of  staple  and 
grade  of  cotton,  seveiral  ibales  are 
placed  around  the  bale  breaker  and 
the  cotton  fed  to  this  machine  alter- 
nately from  each  bale.  By  this  meth- 
od the  cotton  is  more  thoroughly  mixed 
than  if  a  whole  bale  was  fed  to  the 
machine  at  once.  The  cotton  is  then 
dropped  on  an  endless  lattice  and  car- 
ried to  its  proper  bin.  This  latter  is 
generally  movable  in  either  direction 
so  that  it  may  be  placed  in  position  to 
drop  the  cotton  into  its  proper  bin. 
The  mixings  should  be  as  large  as 
possible  and  cotton  of  a  fair  grade 
having  a  staple  of  1%  inches  for  this 
class  of  goods.  The  mixings  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  pos- 
sible and  the  good  waste  from  the 
pickers,  cards,  drawing  frames  and 
back  of  slubber  should  be  mixed  in  at 
this  place.  The  waste  from  the  above 
machines  is  collected  at  regular  in- 
tervals, and  may  be  mixed  as  fast  as 
collected.  Little  system  is  used  in 
mixing  the  waste  into  the  raw  stock, 
but  the  picker  room  boss  should  watch 
to  see  that  the  waste  man  keeps  the 
different  lengths  of  staples,  kinds  and 
grades  of  cotton  by  themselves.  Oth- 
erwise trouble  is  bound  to  occur  at  the 
latter  machines.  The  raw  stock  is  put 
through  an  opener,  and  sometimes 
three  but  more  often 

TWO  PROCESSES   OF  PICKING. 

The  hopper  of  the  opener  is  filled 
with  cotton  and  started  up  and  should 
be  kept  well  filled  all  the  time  it  is 
in  motion.  The  speed  of  the  beater  of 
this  machine  for  this  class  of  goods 
should  be  1,050  revolutions  per  min- 
ute with  a  fan  speed  of  350  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  Keep  your  bin  beat- 
er clean,  and  see  that  it  is  adjusted 
to  the  proper  distance  from  the  lift- 
ing apron,  so  that  the  correct  amount 
of  cotton  will  be  fed  to  the  breaker 
picker.    The  total  weight  of  the  laps 


for  both  the  warps  and  filling  yarn 
should  be  about  40  pounds  or  16 
ounces  to  yard  of  lap.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  The  speed  of 
the  beater  is  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  with  a  fair  speed  of  1,100  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  gives  thr 
cotton  about  42  heats  per  inch  of 
cotton  fed.  The  beats  per  inch  giver 
to  cotton  do  not  vary  much  on  all 
classes  of  cotton,  except  in  the  case 
of  Sea  Island,  of  a  long  staple.  In  the 
latter  case  the  speed  of  the  beater  is 
slowed  down  so  that  the  cotton  re- 
ceives from  29  to  34  beats  per  inch 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  end  of  the  finisher  is  35  pounds 
or  12y2  ounces  to  yard  of  lap.     The 

BOBBIN  WASTE  COTTON 

is  mixed  at  this  point,  it  first  having 
gone  through  an  extra  process  to  take 
out  the  twist.  This  waste  is  made  into 
a  lap  and  then  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  mixed  in  proportions  of 
three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of 
bobbin  waste.  The  draughts  of  the 
picker  should  be  looked  after  to  see 
that  the  currents  of  air  are  properly 
directed  so  as  to  obtain  the  best  ad- 
vantage in  making  an  even,  firm  lap 
that  will  not  lick  up  at  the  card.  Too 
much  waste  in  the  mixing  will  also 
tend  to  make  a  lap  split  or  lick  up  at 
the  card. 

THE   CARD 

should  have  a  draft  of  not  less  than 
100.  The  settings  should  be  the  sam 
as  given  in  a  previous  lesson  and  the 
cylinder  and  doffer  stripped  threr 
times  a  day.  The  cylinder  and  doffer 
should  be  ground  once  a  month  and 
the  flats  about  once  in  every  three 
weeks.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  should  be  about  65  grain; 
per  yard.  Use  the  same  count  of  wire 
for  cylinder  and  doffer  as  given  in  the 
last  article. 

The  card  sliver  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing.  In  some  mills 
the  cotton  is  put  through  a  railway 
head.  This  machine  doubles  from  8  to 
16  ends,  and  this  at  the  front  passes 
through  a  trumpet,  which  automatical- 
ly evens  it.  When  this  process  is 
used,  one  process  of  drawing  frames 


446 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


is  left  out.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  drawing 
should  be  about  70  grains  per  yard- 
See  that  your  leather  top  rolls  are 
well  \arnished  and  otherwise  in  per- 
fect condition.  The  following  direc- 
tions will  be  found  excellent  for  mak- 
ing the  varnish  to  use  on  the  rolls: 
three  ounces  glue  (use  a  gelatin  fish 
glue),  one  ounce  of  acid  (acetic).  Let 
this  dissolve  and  then  add  color  and 
10  or  12  drops  of  oil  of  origanum.  In 
warm  weather  a  little  borax  may  be 
added.  The  sliver  is  taken  from  the 
drawing  frame  and  run  through  the 
slubber,  where  it  is  made  into  a  .50 
hank  roving.     The 

SLUBBER  ROVING 

is  then  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames  for  both 
warp  and  filling  yarns,  the 
hank  roving  being  as  follows:  First 
intera.ediate,  1.50;  second  interme- 
diate, 4  and  7.50  hank  at  the  jack 
frame  for  the  warp  yarn  and  8.  for 
the  filling  yarn.  See  that  your  fly 
frame  rolls  are  spread  to  the  proper 
distance  and  look  out  for  the  shape 
of  your  full  bobbins  to  see  that  the 
taper  of  the  ends  is  neither  too  blunt 
nor  too  sharp.  If  the  former,  it  is  li- 
able to  run  over  both  on  the  frame 
and  in  handling,  and  if  the  latter,  only 
a  small  amount  of  roving  can  be 
wound  on  each  bobbin.  The  warp  yarn 
is  spun  in  the  ring  spinning  frame,  but 
the  filling  yarn  may  be  either  spun  on 
a  ring  frame  or  a  mule,  but  is  gener- 
ally done  on  the  former  machine.  The 
particulars  for  a  warp  frame  spinning 
36s  yarn  has  already  been  given  in  a 
previous  lesson.  Those  used  for  a  fill- 
ing frame  spinning  40s  are  as  follows: 
Gauge  of  spindles,  2%  inches;  diam- 
eter of  ring,  1  5-16  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5%  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
8,800  revolutions  per  minute;  twist 
per  inch,  23.72.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  put  through  a 
slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Silesias    are    dyed    on    the   jig    ma- 
chine at  the  full  width  of  the  piece. 


CREAM. 
A  few  grains  of  fast  cotton  yellow  C. 
Ex.,     5     pounds     Glauber's,     one-half 
pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT   ECRU. 
1-16  oimce  fast  cotton  yellow  C.  Ex., 
1-16-ounce,  direct  orange  TG. 
ECRU. 
1-16  ounce  fast  cotton  yellow  C.  Ex., 
IVi    ounces    fast   cotton    brown    G.,    5 
pounds  Glauber's,   %   pound  sal  soda. 
LIGHT    SLATE. 
2  ounces  fast  cotton  yellow  C.  Ex.,  4 
ounces     direct    black    S.,    5     pounds 
Glauber's,   Yz  pound  sal  soda. 
SLATE. 

1  pound  direct  black  S.,  4  ounces 
fast  cotton  yellow  C.  Ex.,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

DARK    SLATE. 

2  pounds  diamine  black  BH.,  4 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  A.,  4 
ounces  oxydiamine  black  A.,  20  pounds 
Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  DRAB. 
4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  A.,  4 
ounces   diamine  brown    B.,   4    ounces 
diamine   black   BH.,   10   pounds   Glau- 
ber's, 2  pounds  sal  soda. 
DRAB. 
1/^  pound  diamine  fast  yellow  A.  % 
pound    diamine    black   BH.,    6    ounces 
diamine    brown   B.,    10    pounds    Glau- 
ber's, two  pounds  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  TAN. 
Vz  pound  diamine  fast  yellow  A.,  ^ 
pound  diamineral  brown  G.,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  two  pounds  sal  soda. 
TAN. 

2  pounds  diamine  catechine  3  G.,  1 
pound  diamine  fast  yellow  B.,  10 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal   soda. 

OLD   GOLD. 

3  pounds  diamine  fast  yellow  B.,  2 
pounds  diamine  catechine  3  G.,  % 
ounce  diamine  black  BH.,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

PEARL. 
1-16  ounce  diamine  brilliant  blue  G., 
5  pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda, 
after-treated   i/4   per  cent  copper  sul- 
phate. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


447 


SKY  BLUE. 
6   ounces  diamine  sky  blue   FF.,  5 
pounds  Glauber's,  Yz  pound  sal  soda. 

BLUE. 
2     pounds     diamine     blue     RW.,     5 
pounds  Glauber's,   %   pound  sal   soda. 

RED. 

6  per  cent  primuline,  25  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

Diazotized  iy2  per  cent  nitrate  soda 
5  per  cent  sulphuric  acid.  Developed 
two  pounds  beta  naphthol. 

SCARLET. 

4  pounds  benzo  fast  scarlet  4  BS., 
30  pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal 
soda. 

MAROON. 

5  pounds  tetrazo  corinth  B.,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
%  pound  heliotrope  BB.,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  %  pound  sal  soda. 
PINK. 
^     pound     tetrazo     pink     BU.,     20 
pounds  Glauber's   Vz  pound  sal  soda. 
YELLOW. 
1%  pounds   chlorine  yellow  GG.,  20 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 
ORANGE. 

2  pounds  benzo  fast  orange  S.,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,   3   pounds  sal  soda. 

DARK    GREEN. 

3  per  cent  benzo  dark  green  GG.,  2 
per  cent  chrysophenine,  1  per  cent  di- 
rect black  B. 

GREEN. 
3  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  green  B., 
Vz  per  cent  chrysophenine,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
NAVY  BLUE. 

5  per  cent  diazo  black  BHN.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 

6  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  6  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BROWN. 
6  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.,  1  per 
cent  diamine  yellow  B.,  1  per  cent  dia- 
mine catechine  G.,  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's, 3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


DARK  BROWN. 
2  per  cent  benzo  fast  black,  2i^  per 
cent    benzo    fast   red    L.,    4    per    cent 
chrysophenine,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3   per  cent   sal  soda. 
BLACK. 
15  per  cent  thion  black  B.,   15   per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 


LAWN 


Lawn  is  a  light-weight,  singl»^ 
cloth  wash  fabric,  weighing  from  1^/4 
to  2^4  ounces  per  yard  and  in  differ- 
ent widths  finished.  It  is  composed  of 
all  cotton  yarns  from  l-40s  to  about 
1-lOOs,  and  is  always  woven  with  a 
plain   weave  I — _. 

PLAIN  LAWN 
is  made  of  grey  yarn  in  both  the  warp 
and  filling.  The  fancier  grades,  or 
those  having  a  color  effect,  are  pro- 
duced by  printing  vines,  fioral  stripes, 
small  flowers,  etc.,  in  bright  colors  in 
scattered  effects  upon  the  face  of  the 
goods,  the  warp  and  the  filling  in  all 
cases  being  grey  yarns.  The  patterns 
are  always  printed,  never  woven. 

Lawn  is  made  in  various  grades, 
ranging  in  price  from  5  to  12 1/^  and  15 
cents  per  yard,  and  it  is  used  princi- 
pally in  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  and 
children's  summer  dresses,  sash  cur- 
tains, etc.  Being  a  rather  sheer  fab- 
ric, lawn  is  best  adapted  to  those  light 
running  looms  in  which  the  action  of 
shedding  is  easiest  upon  the  fine  yarns 
used  in  this  style  of  goods. 

The  warp  for  this  fabric  is  warped 
upon  an  ordinary  warper  and  the  va- 
rious beams  placed  upon  the  slasher, 
the  yarn  being  sized  just  about  the 
same  as  is  noted  for  an  ordinary 
sheeting,  though,  of  course,  different 
sizing  compounds  and  a  greater 
amount  of  care  is  necessary,  due  to 
the  fine  yarn  sizes  used.  It  is  never 
a  very  successful  policy  to  use  bleach- 
ed yarns  in  any  of  the  finer  numbers, 
in  fact,  it  is  probable  that  no  domes- 
tic concern  uses  single  bleached  or 
dyed  yarns  of  a  finer  size  than  70s-l. 
It  is  more  economical  to  use  grey 
yarns,   and  in  most  cp^es  it  gives  a 


448 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


much  better  result,  and  besides  cloths 
are  practical  when  made  from  grey 
yarns  when  they  would  be  impractical 
in  bleached  and  dyed  yarns.  The 
method  of  making  any  fabric  depends 
a  good  deal  on  the  result  desired,  and 
it  is  the  adoption  of  the 

CORRECT  METHOD 

which  brings  success  in  a  great 
many  instances.  Curtain  mills  have 
adopted  the  automatic  loom  for  some 
of  the  fabrics  which  they  produce,  and 
because  of  this  reason  they  are  earn- 
ing quite  large  dividends.  Other  mills 
have  adopted  fast  colors  and  are  now 
piece  bleaching  their  product  instead 
of  using  bleached  and  dyed  yarns,  and 
are  thus  obtaining  a  greater  margin  of 
profit  than  others  making  similar 
cloths.  Other  illustrations  might  be 
given  of  a  similar  character,  but  intel- 
ligence should  be  used  if  successful 
results  are  to  be  secured.  Lawns  are 
practically  always  woven  upon  light 
looms,  and  very  few  have  ever  been 
woven  upon  automatic  machines.  This 
has  resulted  because  fine  yarns  are 
likely  to  break  more  extensively  and 
because  the  weight  of  the  heddles 
upon  the  fine  yarn  causes  breakage 
and  loss  of  production.  The  number 
of  looms  per  weaver  is  therefore  re- 
duced, and  the  possibility  of  saving 
decidedly  less.  In  order  for  automatic 
looms  to  be  successful  they  must  be 
kept  in  operation,  and  fine  yarn  does 
not  allow  this  as  extensively  as  me- 
dium and  coarse  sizes. 

The  plain  weave  requires  but  two 
harnesses,  but  where  there  are  a  great 
number  of  ends  in  the  warp,  the  yarn 
would  be  very  much  crowded  if  the 
warp  was  drawn  in  on  two  harnesses. 
Therefore,  four  or  more  harnesses  are 
used. 

Lawn,  when  finished,  should  have 
a  very  soft,  smooth  feel.  Therefore 
the  finishing  process  includes  brush- 
ing, very  light  starching  or  sizing, 
then  calendering  or  pressing. 

16   square  inches  equals   6.9   grains. 

40  X  36  equals  1,440  x  6.9  equals  9,- 
936  divided  by  16  equals  621  divided 
by  437.5  equals  1.419  ounces  per  yard, 
40  inches  wide  finished. 


40  pieces  white  warp  yam  x  3^^ 
inches  equals  140  inches  equals  .5 
grains. 

140  X  7,000  equals  980,000  divided  by 
.5  equals  1,960,000  divided  by  36 
equals  54,444  divided  by  840  equals 
l-66s  cotton  warp. 

nananB ia 

■aaDBDBG 

□a-Daaaaa 
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BDaaacaa 
Daaaaaaa 
aaaaaDaa 

Dacanaaa 
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Drawing- ioDraft 

naaanaaa 
aanaaaaa 

IU*«  Flu 

46  pieces  white  filling  yarn  x  2% 
inches  equals  100  equals  .35  grains. 

100  X  7,000  equals  700,000  divided  by 
.35  equals  2,000,000  divided  by  36 
equals  55,555  divided  by  840  equals 
l-66s  cotton  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

40  inches  finished. 

64  ends  per  inch  finished,  62  picks 
per  inch  finished  equals  60  ends  in 
reed  and  58  picks  in  loom. 

Reed,  1,080;  42|  inches  in  reed.  2 
ends  per  dent. 

5  per  cent  take-up  on  warp  in  weav- 
ing. 

64@40  equals  2,560  ends  plus  5  per 
cent  take-up  equals  2,694  yards. 

62  picks  X  40  inches  equals  2,480 
yards. 

2,694  yards,  l-66s  cotton  warp 
equals  .748  ounces;  2,480  yards,  l-66s 
cotton  filling  equals  .712  ounces  total, 
1.460  ounces. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarns  from  which 
lawn  is  made  vary  according  to  the 
quality  of  lawn  being  made.  This  va- 
ries from  40s  to  100s.  The  yarns  are 
made  in  the  third  division  of  mills, 
as  given  in  a  previous  lesson  or  those 
mills  which  make  high  count  yarns. 
In  this  article  we  will  consider  the 
warp  yarn  to  be  60s  and  the  filling 
yarn  to  be  100s.  For  these  two  counts 
raw  stock  of  two  different  lengths  of 
staple  and  grade  of  yarn  would  be 
used.  For  100s  a  Sea  Island  cotton  of 
about  1  7-16-inch  staple  may  be  used 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


449 


and  for  the  warp  yarn  an  Allen  cotton 
of  about  li-inches  staple.  The  two 
cottons  would  be  treated  differently  at 
every  process,  and  so  we  will  describe 
the  two  cottons  at  each  process.  The 
Allen  cotton  would  be  put  through  the 
bale  breaker  in  the  manner  described 
in  the  article  of  last  week,  and  carried 
to  its  proper  bin.  At  this  point  the 
GOOD  WASTE  IS  MIXED  IN. 
It  is  not  the  general  custom  to  run 
the  Sea  Island  cotton  through  the  bale 
breaker,  but  to  mix  it  by  hand  great 
care  should  be  taken  that  all  the  bales 
mixed  are  of  a  uniform  length  and 
that  the  grade  of  each  bale  is  up 
to  standard.  Those  bales  not  up  to 
standard  should  be  shipped  back  to 
the  broker.  The  good  waste  is  mixed 
in  at  this  point,  but  be  sure  that  the 
waste  boy  only  puts  in  Sea  Island  cot- 
ton, for  if  a  shorter  staple  cotton  gets 
in  it  will  cause  trouble  at  subsequent 
machines.  The  Allen  cotton  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  picking  and 
an  opener.  For  this  class  of  cotton 
three  processes  of  picking  would  be 
better  for,  as  it  is  a  very  dirty  cotton, 
the  extra  picking  would  help  to  clean 
it.  The  speeds  of  all  the  picking  ma- 
chines previously  given  may  be  used 
for  this  cotton.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  breaker  picker  should  be 
about  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
The  doublings  are  four  into  one  at  the 
finisher,  the  total  weight  being  3.5 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  If  an  inter- 
mediate picker  is  used,  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  should  be  about  37 
pounds   or   a   12-ounce   lap.  .  The 

SEA  ISLAND  COTTON 
is  only  put  through  an  opener  and  one 
process  of  picking,  the  reason  for  this 
being  that  the  staple  is  so  long  that 
if  two  processes  are  used  the  extra 
beating  that  it  receives  tends  to  put 
neps  into  the  staple.  The  speeds  of 
the  opener  are  slowed  down  and  the 
speeds  of  the  finisher  parts  are  as  fol- 
lows: The  speed  of  a  rigid  two-blad- 
ed beater  should  not  exceed  1.000  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  t9tal  weight 
of  the  lap  should  be  about  30  pounds 
or  about  a  9-ounce  lap  to  the  yard. 
The  roving  waste  should  be  mixed  in 
at  the  finisher  picker  process,  as  pre- 
viously explained.     The  cards  should 


be  set  close  for  both  cottons,  the  main 
difference  being  in  the  setting  of  the 
feed  roller  to  the  licker-in,  which 
should  be  set  according  to  the  length 
of  staple.  The  usual  points  that  have 
been  given  in  previous  lessons  should 
be  looked  out  for  when  running  Allen 
cotton,  the  weight  of  the  sliver  in 
front  being  65  grains  to  the  yard  and 
the  production  being  about  500  pounds 
for  a  week  of  60  hours,  the  draft  be- 
ing not  less  than  100.    For  Sea  Island 

ADDITIONAL  CARE 
has  to  be  taken;  also  certain  speeds 
have  to  be  altered.  It  has  been  found 
that  by  slowing  the  speed  of  the  lick- 
er-in less  neps  are  put  into  the  cot- 
ton and  still  the  cotton  is  cleaned.  In 
fact,  one  overseer  using  this  class  of 
cotton  lagged  his  licker-in  pulley  so 
as  to  obtain  an  extra  diameter  of  1% 
inches  and  found  the  results  excellent, 
the  sliver  showing  fewer  neps  than 
when  the  usual  speed  of  the  licker-in 
was  used.  On  this  cotton  it  is  the  gen- 
eral practice  to  use  high  drafts  and 
sometimes  a  draft  of  165  is  used,  but 
for  general  purposes  a  draft  of  about 
130  is  used.  The  flats  are  speeded  so 
as  to  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  45  minutes,  the  extra  speed  be- 
ing obtained  by  lagging  the  pulley  on 
the  cylinder  that  drives  the  flats.  This, 
of  course,  takes  out  more  waste,  but 
it  makes  less  work  for  the  combers  to 
do.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
card  is  about  45  grains  per  yard.  Strip 
and  grind  cards  the  same  as  stated 
in  previous  articles. 

THE  WIRE  FILLET 
used  for  cards  making  sliver  for  high 
class  yarns  is  generally  firmer  than 
that  previously  given  and  if  cards  are 
used  for  high  count  yarn  the  size  of 
the  fillet  should  be  as  follows:  Cylin- 
der No.  34  wire  or  110s  English  count; 
doffer  and  top  flats,  No.  36  wire  or  130s 
English  count.  The  production  of  a 
card  on  Sea  Island  cotton  varies  from 
325  to  450  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  Four  hundred  pounds  is  a  good 
average.  From  the  cards  both  cottons 
are  taken  to  the  comber  room  and  the 
doublings  at  the  sliver  lap  are  14  into 
one.  The  weight  of  the  Allen  lap  at 
the  front  is  320  grains  per  yard  and 
the  Sea  Island  weighs  250  grains  per 


450 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


yard.  The  cottons  are  then  put  through 
the  ribbon  lap  machine,  where  the 
Allen  is  doubled  6  into  one,  but  it  is 
the  general  custom  to  double  the  Sea 
Island  only  5  into  one,  the  weight  of 
lap  at  the  front  end  being  260  grains 
per  yard  for  Allen  and  200  grains  for 
Sea  Island.  The  laps  are  taken  to  the 
combers,  where  they  are  doubled  6 
into  one.  The  speed  of  the  combers 
should  be  about  85  to  90  neps  per  min- 
ute for  Allen  and  75  to  80  for  Sea 
Island.  The  amount  of  waste  taken 
out  at  the  comber  is  important.  A  good 
average  for  Allen  is  18  per  cent  and 
for  Sea  Island  20  to  25  per  cent.    The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 

for  Allen  is  about  42  and  for  Sea  Island 
about  36  grains  per  yard.  After  pass- 
ing through  the  comber  the  sliver  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing, 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
being  60  grains  per  yard  for  Sea 
Island  and  70  grains  for  Allen.  On  all 
machines  when  leather  top  rolls  are 
used  for  Sea  Island,  stock  should  be 
kept  in  the  best  of  shape  and  oiled 
and  varnished  frequently.  The  speed 
of  the  front  roll  on  the  finisher  draw- 
ing for  Sea  Island  should  be  about  320 
revolutions  per  minute  or  80  revolu- 
tions per  minute  slower  than  for  Al- 
len. The  slubber  draws  the  sliver  into 
.50  hank  roving  for  Allen  and  .80  hank 
for  Sea  Island.  The  Sea  Island  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames, 
the  hank  roving  being  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  2.25;  second  inter- 
mediate, 5.00;  jack'  frame,  18  hank, 
and  for  Allen:  First  intermediate,  1.50; 
second  intermediate,  4.00;  jack  frame, 
12  hank.  The  twist  per  inch  put  into 
Sea  Island  cotton  is  a  little  less  than 
the  usual  amount  used  for  other  cot- 
tons, the  standard  for  jack  frames  be- 
ing square  root  of  hank  x  1.2.  The 
filling  yarn  is  mule  spun  and  the  warp 
yarn  ring  spun,  the  following  particu- 
lars being  used:  Gauge  of  frame,  2| 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  lYz  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  6  inches;  speed  of 
spindle,  10,000  revolutions  per  minute; 
twist  per  inch,  34.86.  The  warp  yarn  is 
then  taken  to  the  spoolers  and  from 
here  to  the  warpers,  where  it  is  run 
on  beams  and  taken  to  the  slasher. 
The  following  is  a  good  size  to  use: 


100  gallons  water,  54  pounds  potato 
starch,  2  pounds  Yorkshire  gum,  1^^ 
pounds  soap. 

Finishing  Particulars. 

Lawns  have  to  be  very  carefully 
handled  in  the  bleaching  process. 
They  are  starched  with  an  ordinary 
starch  mangle  with  from  8  to  12 
ounces  best  white  German  dextrine 
per  gallon,  mixed  cold,  and  boiled  for 
one  hour,  with  a  little  blueing  added 
to  shade  required. 

They  are  then  finished  on  the  stent- 
er  machine,  dryed  with  hot  air,  care 
being  taken  to  keep  the  pieces  per- 
fectly straight. 

Lawns  are  often  tinted  light  shades 
of  blue,  pink,  cream,  ecru,  pearl,  green 
and  other  light  tints  with  direct  col- 
ors added  to  the  starch,  the  direct 
colors  being  used  generally.  The  basic 
and  acid  colors  are  also  tinted  to  make 
bright  colors. 


TARTAN  PLAIDS 

Tartan  plaid  is  a  narrow,  light- 
weight, single  cloth  fabric,  weighing 
from  2  to  2^/4  ounces  per  yard  finish- 
ed, and  is  composed  of  regular  cotton 
yarns  from  l-20s  to  l-26s  in  warp  and 

aammnamm 

DBaoDMa 

■■DDBaDD 

■Gnaaaaa 
aammoamu 
oaaaoHn 
■■acaaaa 
maammaam 

anamanom 
Damaaamo 
DBanQBDn 
■aaQBDoa 

Drawing- in  Draft 

Dnrnmaawa 
■■aDBKorj 

Be«d  Finn 

filling.  It  is  always  woven  about  23% 
inches  in  the  reed,  to  finish  about  22 
inches  wide.  This  is  done  to  prevent 
it  from  coming  too  close  to  the  ging- 
ham lines. 

Tartan  plaids  are  generally  woven 
with  a  - —  45  degree,  right  hand 
twill  weave,  and  are  always  woven  in 
plaid  patterns  in  imitation  of  the  im- 
ported worsted  fabric  of  this  name. 

Each  line  of  patterns  has  a  stand- 
ard name,  which  represents  a  signifi- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


451 


cant  style  of  color  arrangement,  such 
is  Rob  Roy,  dress  Stewart,  Royal 
Ltewart,  ^Malcolm,  Fraser,  :McGregor, 
Sinclair,  Gordon,  Drummond,  Macpher- 
son,    etc. 

Those  colors  most  used  are  red, 
green,  black,  white,  brown,  drab,  wine, 
dark  green,  scarlet,  dark  blue,  etc. 

IN  THE  ROB  ROY   STYLE 

the  pattern  takes  the  form  of  a  broad, 
two-colored  check,  1^4  x  1^/4  inches, 
either  black  and  red,  or  black  and 
white,  viz.:  72  black,  72  red  in  warp 
and  filling.  The  dress  Stewart  pattern 
is  composed  piincipally  of  white  yarn. 
The  Royal  Stewart  has  a  decided  red 
color  effect,  the  Gordon  pattern  a  very 
green    color   effect,    etc. 

Aniline  colors  are  used  in  dyeing 
the  yarns  for  this  fabric,  the  warp 
yarns  being  given  an  extra  run,  to  in- 
sure an  even  shade,  which,  while  not 
being  exactly  a  fast  color,  is  strong 
enough  to  withstand  the  action  of  a 
rather  wet  finish    (gingham  finish). 

The  warps  for  this  fabric  are  order 
ed    from   the    spinner   in     lengths     of 
either  720,  1,080,  1,200  or  1,500  yards, 
and  have  either  1,000,  1,200,  1,400   or 
2,000  ends  in  them. 

The  most  popular  are  720,  or  1,080 
yards  and  1,400  ends. 

The  warp  is  dyed  in  bulk  and  the 
necessary  number  of  ends  of  each  col- 
or are  then  split  off.  When  all  the 
colors  have  been  split  or  separated, 
the  splittings,  or  separated  bunches  of 
ends  of  each  color,  are  assembled  in 
the  beaming  frame,  and  the  yarn  is 
arranged  as  per  pattern  in  the  rathe 
comb,  and  the  warp  run  through  this 
rathe  onto  the  beam.  After  beaming 
the  warp  is  drawn  in  in  the  regular 
manner. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 
the  brusher,  then  through  the  sprink- 
ler, after  which  they  are  very  lightly 
sized,  then  run  upon  the  tentering  ma- 
chine to  prevent  undue  shrinkage  in 
width,  also  to  assist  in  drying,  then 
calendered,  but  not  to  a  glossy  finish. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Style —  Rob  Roy — finished  22  inches 
wide;  reed,  1,080 — 23 1^  inches  in  reed, 
two  ends  per  dent;  l-26s  cotton  warp 


— 10  per  cent  take-up;  l-22s  cottoik 
filling — 40  picks;  - — ^  ,  45  degree, 
right-hand  twill  weave,  16  ends  extra 
for   selvage. 

Warp  pattern:  72  black  x  72  reed, 
total  144,  all  equal  9  patterns  plus  112 
ends. 

1,424   ends   in  warp    (including   sel 
vage.) 

Start  29  red  at  x,  end  28  red  at  x. 

704  ends  black  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  780  yards  l-26s  warp  equals 
.5715  ounce;  720  ends  red  plus  10  per 
cent  equals  800  yards  l-6s  warp  equals 
.5860  ounce;  48  picks  times  231/2  equals 
564  yards,  l-22s  filling  equals  .488 
ounce  and  564  yards,  l-22s  filling 
equals  .488  ounce,  equals  2.1335  ounces, 
2.1335  ounces  per  yard,  22  inches  wide. 

Finish — very  light  size,  tenter,  cal- 
ender. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  tartan  plaids  are  made  in  mills  of 
the  first  and  second  division,  as  given 
in  a  previous  lesson.  The  counts  or 
yarn  vary  according  to  the  mill  in_ 
which  they  are  made,  and  the  counts" 
taken  as  examples  for  this  article  are 
l-22s  filling  yarn  and  l-26s  warp  yarn. 
The  cotton  used  for  these  goods  is  of 
a  fair  grade  and  a  staple  varying  from 
i  inch  to  1  1-16  inches.  We  -will  con- 
sider the  staple  to  be  one  inch.  The 
cotton  is  stapled  and  put  through  a 
bale  breaker  and  from  here  is  passed 
by  a  series  of  lattice  aprons  to  the 
mixing  bin.  Use  as  large  a  mixing  as 
possible  at  one  time,  because  the  less 
mixings  the  evener  the  yarn  will  be. 
The  good  waste  from  the  machines  up 
to  the  slubber  is  mixed  into  the  raw- 
stock  at  this  point,  the  collections  of 
this  waste  being  made  at  regular  in- 
tervals. The  raw  stock  is  sometimes 
put  through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 
and  an  opener  and  sometimes  through 
three  processes  of  picking  and  an  op- 
ener. It  has  been  found  that  two  proc- 
esses of  picking  will  clean  the  cot- 
ton properly,  and  at  the  same  time 
will  not  be  so  apt  to  put  neps  into  it. 
When  two  processes  of  pickings  are 
used,  the  particulars  of  the  intermedi- 


452 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ate  picker  given  below  may  be  drop- 
ped, the  other  particulars  remaining 
the  same  as  given.  The  hopper  or  feed 
box  of  the  opener  should  alvi^ays  be 
kept  at  least  half  full  and  generally  a 
porcupine  beater  is  used.  The  speed 
of  this  beater  should  be  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute,  with  a  fan 
speed  of  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  is  then  passed  to  the  feed 
rolls  of  the  breaker  picker.  Keep  the 
pin  beater  of  this  machine  free  from 
cotton,  as  it  has  to  be  watched  to  see 
that  the  sliver  waste  does  not  tangle 
around  it.  This  roll  is  more  trouble- 
some on  some  makes  of  machines  than 
on  others.   The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
(which  generally  is  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type)  is  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  fan  speed  being  1,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  about  40 
pounds  total  weight  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
Some  system  of  marking  has  to  be 
employed,  so  that  the  laps  of  other 
grades  and  lengths  of  staple  will  not 
become  mixed  and  thus  cause  trouble 
.later  on.  Of  course,  like  staples  and 
weights  of  laps  may  be  placed  togeth- 
er, but  it  is  the  general  custom  to  mark 
the  laps  at  the  end  as  they  are  taken 
off  the  machine  with  different  colored 
crayons.  For  example,  1  1-16  may  be 
marked  brown,  1%  blue,  1  1-16  salmon, 
etc.  This  is  not  generally  done  at 
any  except  the  finisher  picker.  The 
laps  are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the 
intermediate  picker,  the  speed  of  the 
beater  being  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  speed  of  the  fan  1.050 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  about  37 
pounds.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  four  into 
one.   It  is  at  this  point  that 

THE  ROVING  WASTE 
is  mixed  in  in  a  proportion  of  one  lap 
of  roving  waste  to  three  laps  of  raw 
stock.  The  cotton  receives  about  42 
beats  per  inch  fed.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  is  about  39  pounds,  or  about 
a  16-ounce  per  yard  lap.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  is  about  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  speed  of  the 
fan  1,100  revolutions  per  minute,  ^he 
laps  are  then  put  up  at  the  card.  The 


card  is  set  to  accommodate  this  stock 
as  described  in  a  previous  lesson,  the 
speed  of  cylinder  being  160  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
is  30  3  revolutions  per  minute.  Flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  40 
minutes.  The  draft  should  not  exceed 
100.    Use  a  large  diameter   doffer. 

Strip  three  times  daily  and  grind  at 
least  once  a  month.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  is  65  grains  per  yard.  The  pro- 
duction is  about  900  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  The  sliver  is  then  put 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
being  doubled  six  into  one,  the  speed 
of  the  front  roller  being  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  the  weight  of  draw- 
ing at  the  finisher  being  70  grains. 
Some  of  the  points  that  are  to  be  look- 
ed out  for  are  as  follows:  Stop  mo- 
tions, rolls,  laps  and  oiling.  The  sliver 
is  next  taken  to  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .40  hank  roving,  the  usual  stand- 
ard for  twist  being  used.  Look  out 
for  the  shape  of  your  bobbins.  The 
slubber  roving  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  doubling  two 
into  one.  The  hank  roving  at  the  first 
intermediate  is  1.10,  at  the  second 
2.70  hank  and  at  the  jack  frame  five 
hank. 

The  rovings  are  then  taken  to  thu 
spinning  room  and  made  into  the  re- 
quired yam. 

THE  FILLING  YARN 

may  be  taken  to  either  the  mule  or 
ring  spinning  room.  If  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room,  the  following  are 
good  particulars  to  use  for  frame  mak- 
ing 22s  yarn:  Gauge  of  frame,  2%; 
diameter  of  ring,  1^/^  inches;  length 
of  traverse,  6i/^  inches;  twist  per  inch, 
15.25;  speed  of  spindles,  7,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  For  a  warp  frame 
spinning  26s  use  gauge  of  frame,  2| 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1|  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  6  inches;  speed  of 
spindles,  9,700  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped 
and  put  through  a  slasher. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

RED. 
4   per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.,   30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


A  COTTO.S   ..i'ABRlCS  GLOSSARY- 


453 


GREEN. 

1%  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF., 
V^  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  FF., 

3  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 
:>da. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  thion  black  G.,  15  per 
ent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent  salt;  3 
jer  cent  soda  ash. 

BROWN. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S.,  2 
per  cent  chrysophenine,  2^^  per  cent 
benzo  fast  black,  80  per  cent  salt,  2 
per  cent  soda  ash. 

DRAB. 

1  per  cent  benzo  fast  black,  14  per 
cent  chrysophenine,  3  ounces  benzo 
fast  red  GL.,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  2 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

SLATE. 

y2  per  cent  benzo  fast  black,  % 
ounce  chrysophenine,  %  ounce  benzo 
fast  red  GL.,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  2 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 

5  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK   GREEN. 

6  per  cent  diamine  black  HW.,  4 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

WINE. 

6  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BLUE. 

4  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  blue  6  B., 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

DARK  BLUE. 

15  per  cent  pyrogene  indigo  B.,  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cent 
salt,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  2  pints  min- 
eral  oil. 

YELLOW. 

2  per  cent  chloramine  yellow  M.,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash. 


BAYADERE 


Bayadere  is  a  fabric  in  which  the 
pattern  consists  of  a  stripe  running 
across  the  width  instead  of  the  length 
of  the  material.  Such  patterns  are  al- 
most entirely  confined  to  ladies'  and 
children's  dress  goods,  and  may  be 
composed  entirely  of  cotton,  as  in  the 
cheapest  grades,  of  cotton  and  wor- 
sted in  the'  medium,  or  entirely  of 
worsted  or  worsted  and  silk  in  the 
best  grades. 

The  fabric  considered  in  this  article 
is  a  medium-grade  cloth  of  ladies' 
dress  goods,  and  is  composed  of  wor- 
sted, silk  and  cotton  and  weighs  5i/^ 
ounces  per  yard,  36  inches  wide,  fin- 
ished. 

The  pattern  is  a  zigzag  stripe,  ex- 
tending across  the  fabric  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  weft  on  a  rep  ground. 

Figure  1  shows  the  full  design  for 
the  one  repeat  of  the  pattern,  and  is 
complete  on  132  warp  threads  and  30 
picks. 

Figure  2  is  the  drawing-in  draft  and 
is  complete  on  13  harnesses. 

Figure  3  is  the  reeding  plan. 

Figure  4  is  the  chain  draft. 

The  arrangement  of  the  warp  and 
weft  threads  is  as  follows: 

Warp,  2  threads  blue  2-50s  worsted 
(xx  Ohio),  1  thread  brown  2-60s  cot- 
ton (carded  peeler) ;  3  threads  in  pat- 
tern. 

Weft,  1  pick  light  blue  40-2s  spun 
silk,  2  picks  brown,  20-cut  cotton 
(wool   spun) ;    3  picks  in  pattern. 

20  reed,  3  threads  per  dent — 60 
threads  per  inch.  Reeded  381/^  inches 
wide  for  36  inches  finished,  40  picks 
per  inch. 

The  above  warp  must  be  made  on 
two  beams:  cotton  threads  on  top 
beam,  worsted  threads  on  bottom 
beam. 

Wlien  drawing  in,  cotton  must  al- 
ways come  on  first  four  shafts,  and 
worsted  on  the  last  nine  shafts. 

Almost  any  dobby  loom  might  be 
used  having  the  required  number  of 
harnesses  and  shuttle  boxes. 

In  regulating  the  tension  of  the  two 
beams,  considerable  care  must  be  used 
in  order  that  the  rib  in  the  ground 
may  be  made  as  clear  and  distinct  as 


454 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


possible.  This  may  be  accomplished  by 
having  relatively  more  weight  on  the 
cotton    beam    than    on    the    worsted, 
Fig.  3.  Fig.  2. 


trated  by  the  small  sketch,  Figure  5. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  the  cotton 
(thin)    threads   are   held   very   nearly 

Fin.    1 


which  is  an  important  feature  in  the 
manufacture  of  all  fabrics  of  a  rep 
character,    and    which    is    fully    illus- 


straight,  while  the  worsted  are  forced 
to  bend  around  the  heavy  picks  of  the 
weft.    The    take-up    of    the    worsted 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


455 


threads  is  therefore  much  greater 
than  that  of  the  cotton,  being  about 
eight  per  cent,  while  the  cotton  is  only 
about  two  per  cent. 

The  worsted  warp  then  must  be 
made  relatively  longer. 

In  introducing  the  weft  threads,  the 

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Fig.  4. 

silk  pick  must  always  enter  when  the 
cotton    warp    threads    are   up    in    the 
ground  portion  of  the  cloth. 
THE  FINISHING. 

In  finishing  fabrics  of  this  charac- 
ter everything  depends  upon  the  qual- 
ity of  the  cloth — the  fabric  just  describ- 
ed having  a  dry  finish;  viz.,  after  being 
burled  and  mended,  it  is  brushed, 
pressed  and  rolled  and  is  tlien  ready 
for  shipment. 

In  the  best  grades,  however,  the 
cloth  must  be  scoured,  tentered,  shear- 
ed, brushed  and  pressed  before  being 
rolled  and  made  ready  for  shipment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machines  used  in  making  the 
count  of  yarn  required  for  the  warp 
yarn  of  bayadere  will  be  found  in  the 
second  division  of  mills,  as  given  in  a 
previous  lesson.  Bayadere,  as  has 
been  stated,  may  be  composed  of  all- 
worsted  or  all-cotton  yarns  or  a  mix- 
ture of  worsted  and  cotton  yarns,  or  a 
mixture  of  worsted,  silk  and  cotton.  In 
fact,  there  may  be  almost  any  com- 
bination of  these  three  fibres.  The 
best  grades  of  bayadere  are  made  up 
of  worsted  and  silk  yarns.  For  this 
article  we  will  consider  that  the  fab- 


ric is  composed  of  all  three  kinds  of 
raw  stock,  worsted,  silk  and  cotton. 
For  the  warp,  2-60s  yarn  is  used  and 
for  the  filling  a  20-cut  cotton  yarn  is 
used.  The  filling  yarn  is  spun  in  a 
woolen  mill  and  so 

THE   WARP   YARN 

will  be  the  one  considered  under  the 
above  heading. 

For  this  count  of  yarn  a  peeler  cot- 
ton is  used  of  about  Ig-inch  staple. 
This  cotton  should  be  of  a  good  grade 
and  should  be  run  through  a  bale 
breaker.  The  principal  part  of  the 
mixing  is  done  at  the  bale  breaker  for 
this  cotton.  The  cotton  is  brought 
from  the  storehouse  and  sampled  and 
the  bales  having  the  same  length  of 
staple  are  put  together.  Those  hav- 
ing a  staple  or  grade  not  up  to  mark 
are  laid  one  side.  Several  bales  are 
opened  and  placed  around  the  bale 
breaker  and  the  attendant  feeds  from 
each  bale  alternately  until  all  the  cot- 
ton is  gone.  As  many  bales  as  possible 
and  convenient  should  be  opened 
and  placed  around  the  bale  breaker  at 
one  time  because  a 

MORE  EVEN  MIXING 
will  thus  be  obtained  and  the  yarn  will 
run  a  great  deal  evener.  After  passing 
through  the  bale  breaker  the  stock  is 
conveyed  automatically  to  the  mixing 
bins.  If  the  mixing  is  done  by  hand, 
the  same  points  have  to  be  looked  out 
for,  the  only  difference  being  that  sev- 
eral hands  are  used  instead  of  a  ma- 
chine. At  the  bins  the  good  waste  is 
mixed.  The  raw  stock  is  then  passed 
through  two  or  three  processes  of 
picking  and  an  opener.  If  only  two 
processes  of  picking  are  used,  then 
the  particulars  given  for  the  interme- 
diate picker  may  be  left  out,  the  other 
particulars  given  remaining  the  same. 
The  hopper  of  the  opener  should  al- 
ways be  kept  more  than  half  full.  The 
speed  of 

THE   BEATER 

is  1,050  revolutions  per  minute.  Gen- 
erally a  porcupine  style  of  beater  is 
used  for  this  machine,  with  a  fair 
speed  of  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  is  then  passed  to  the  break- 
er picker.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
(two-bladed  rigid  type)  is  about  1,500 


456 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


revolutions  per  minute,  that  of  the  fan, 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  should 
be  about  40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermedi- 
ate picker  and  doubled  four  into  one. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  should  be  1,- 
450  revolutions  per  minute.  That  of 
the  fan  1,060  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  the  laps   at  the  front 


Fig.  5. 

end  should  be  about  37  pounds,  or  a 
12 -ounce  lap  for  peeler  cotton  to  make 
this  class  of  goods. 

The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  four  into  one.  It 
is  at  this  point  that  the 

CUT  ROVING  IS  MIXED  IN 

(it  having  been  previously  put  through 
a  special  picker,  which  takes  out  the 
twist  and  leaves  it  in  a  fluffy,  untwist- 
ed state  and  then  it  is  put  through  a 
picker  and  made  into  a  lap  of  the 
same  weight  as  the  laps  from  the  in- 
termediate picker),  in  the  proportion 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap 
waste.  The  speed  of  the  beater  for 
this  machine  is  1,450  revolutions  p"ef 
minute,  with  a  fan  speed  of  1,100  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  gives  the 
cotton  passing  through   42    beats    or 


blows  per  inch.  The  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  35  pounds,  or  a  12i/^- 
ounce  lap.  Watch  all  the  points  that 
have  previously  been  pointed  out.  The 
variation  from  standard  should  not  be 
over  8  ounces  either  side  for  the  total 
lap.  The  lap  is  next  taken  to  the 
card.    The 

SETTINGS  OF  THE  CARD 

for  this  division  of  mills  have  been 
previously  given. 

The  draft  should  not  exceed  100; 
speed  of  the  licker-in,  300  revolutions 
per  minute;  speed  of  flats,  1  revolution 
every  45  minutes;  weight  of  sliver,  65 
grains;  production  about  650  pounds 
for  week  of  60  hours.  Strip  three  times 
a  day,  grind  once  a  month,  and  use 
as  large  a  doffer  as  possible.  The 
sliver  is  next  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  drawing,  the  doublings  at 
each  process  being  six  into  one,  the 
weight  of  the  finisher  drawing  being 
72  grains  per  yard,  and  the  revolutions 
per  minute  of  front  roll  850.  Either 
metallic  or  leather  covered  rolls  may 
be  used  at  this  machine.  If  the  former 
are  used,  see  that  they  are  properly 
set  and  keep  them  well  scoured;  if  the 
latter  are  used,  keep  them  in  good  re- 
pair, well  varnished,  and  oiled.  For 
this  length  of  staple  the  following 

SETTINGS 
of  the  bottom  steel  rolls  may  be  used: 
Front  roll  to  second  roll,  1%  inches; 
second  roll  to  third,  1%  inches;  third 
roll  to  back,  1%  inches.  The  sliver 
is  put  through  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .55  hank  roving.  Three  processes 
of  speeders  or  fly  frames  are  used, 
the  hank  roving  being  as  follows:  at 
first  intermediate  1.50;  at  the  second 
4,  and  at  the  jack  frame,  12.  The 
usual  points  are  to  be  looked  out  for 
in  connection  with  fly  frames.  The 
roving  is  then  passed  to  the  spinning 
room  and  made  into  60s  yarn.  For  a 
warp  frame  making  this  count  use  the 
following  particulars:  Gauge  of  frame, 
2%  inches:  diameter  of  ring,  li/^  in- 
ches; length  of  traverse,  6  inches; 
twist  per  inch.  34.86;  speed  of  spindle, 
10,000  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  twister  and 
doubled  or  twisted  into  a  two-ply  yarn. 
It  is  then  passed  to  the  spooler  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


457 


from    here    to    the    warper   and    from 
here  to  the  slasher.  ' 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
BROWN. 
5  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.,  1  per 
cent    diamine   fast   yellow   B.,   30    per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LIGHT   BLUE    (SILK). 
1  per  cent  patent  blue,  pure,  5  per 
cent  acetic  acid. 

BLUE    (WORSTED). 
3   per   cent   patent  blue   A.,    20   per 
cent   Glauber's   salt,   5    per    cent   sul- 
phuric acid. 

♦-»-> ■ 


BOUCLE 


Boucle  is  a  single  cloth,  dress  goods 
fabric,  weighing  from  7  to  8  ounces 
per  yard,  44  inches  wide  finished,  and 
composed  of  plain  and  fancy  twist 
(cotton)  yam  in  warp  and  filling,  also 
having  a  worsted  loop  yarn  in  the 
filling. 

Boucle  is  used  principally  as  a  nov- 
elty dress  fabric  for  ladies'  spring  and 
fall  suitings,  the  distinguishing  fea- 
ture of  the  cloth  being  the  small  loop 
in  the  filling  yarn,  which  curls  over 
the  face  of  the  goods. 

COTTON  BOUCLE 
is  generally  made  with  a  fancy  combi- 
nation weave,  and  the  all-wool  grades 
with  a  straight  twill  weave. 

In  the  fabric  boucle  the  loop  yarn  is 
always  a  worsted  filling  thread,  twist- 
ed with  a  single  cotton  thread,  gen- 
erally dyed  black.  The  color  effects 
are  either  solid  color  in  warp  and 
filling  with  the  loop  yarn  in  contrast, 
or  end  and  end  patterns,  created  by 
using  fancy  colored  cotton  twist  yarns. 
The  colors  most  used  are:  Brown,  dark 
blue,  cadet  blue,  light  green,  drab,  etc., 
or  these  same  colors  are  twisted  with 
a  black  thread  for  twist  effects.  Boucle 
is  usually  woven  in  the  pick  and  pick 
loom,  owing  to  the  fact  that  there  is 
never  more  than  one  pick  of  loop  fill- 
ing put  in  at  one  place,  the  arrange- 
ment generally  being  4,  5,  6,  8  picks, 
cotton  or  cotton  twist,  to  one  pick  of 
worsted  loop  yarn. 


The  woven  fabric  (loom)  of  this 
name  is  very  closely  imitated  by  a 
knitted  fabric  of  similar  appearance, 
which  is  a  light-weight  grade  of  as- 
trachan. 

THE   KNITTED   FABRIC 
is  made  of  cotton  yarns,  wound  in  cone 
shape    and   placed   upon   the   knitting 

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Reed  Flan 

BOUCr>E    (Woolen) 
Warp,  all  brown.     Filling,  3  brown, 
L  worsted,  1  loop. 


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Drawing-m  Draft. 


Reed  Plan 
BOUCLE   (Cotton) 

frame,  no  warp  being  required,  and  the 
thread  which  forms  the  loop  is  a  reg- 
ular worsted  thread,  dyed  black  and 
wound  upon  a  small  bottle  bobbin. 
The  loops  on  the  face  of  the  cloth 
are  formed  by  the  loop  wheels  in  the 
machine  throwing  the  worsted  thread 
between  the  stitching  places,  upon 
the  face  of  the  cloth  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  form  a  loop. 

The  yarns  can  be  taken  direct  from 
the   twister   and   spooled    upon    small 


458 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


6-inch  spools  and  these  spools  assem- 
bled in  the  creel  rack  at  the  warp  mill 
and  the  warp  made  in  sections  upon 
the  mill  drum,  and  afterward  run  off 
the  drum  upon  the  loom  beam:  or,  the 
yarns  are  taken  from  the  twister  and 
the  entire  number  of  spools  required 
are  placed  upon  a  creel  rack  and  the 
whole  warp  made  by  being  run  around 
an  upright  mill  drum,  which  is  an  up- 
right framework  centered  upon  an 
axle  and  turned  by  a  crank,  and  hav- 
ing a  circumference  of  from  20  to  50 
yards. 

If  made  upon  an  upright  mill,  the 
warp,  when  finished,  is  pulled  off  and 
beamed. 

To  finish  boucle,  the  goods  are  tak- 
en from  the  loom,  and  scoured  in  a 
solution  of  soap  and  cold  water,  after 
which  they  are  rinsed  in  cold  water, 
tentered  and  pressed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  720— 49 1^  inches— 1  end  per 
dent,  20  picks  per  inch;  2-12s  cotton 
warp  and  filling. 

Warp  pattern:  4  black  and  blue 
twist,   2  black. 

Filling  pattern:  4  black  and  blue 
twist,  1  black  loop  yarn. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machines  on  which  the  counts 
of  yarn  are  made  in  the  manufacture 
of  boucle  will  be  found  in  the  first  di- 
vision of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  The  warp  yarn  is  made  from 
a  cotton  fibre,  as  is  the  filling  yarn, 
but  this  class  of  cloth  has  an  extra  fill- 
ing, which  is  spun  from  a  worsted 
fibre.  This  worsted  filling  is  what  is 
known  as  a  loop  yarn  and  when  woven 
into  the  cloth  gives  it  a  rough  surface. 
The  loops  are  obtained  by  different 
methods,  this  one  being  a  three-ply 
yarn. 

THE  YARN 

to  make  the  filling  warp  yarns  for 
boucle  is  made  from  raw  stock  having 
a  staple  of  about  one  inch.  This  raw 
stock  is  generally  mixed,  in  large 
quantities,  by  hand.  If  two  mixings 
are  made,  it  is  a  great  deal  better,  for 
then  one  mixing  can  be  standing  and 
drying  out  while  the  other  mixing  is 
being  used.     The  good  waste  is  mixed 


at  this  point  and  sometimes,  although 
on  a  poor  quality  of  goods,  a  small  per- 
centage, of  comber  waste  is  used  in 
the  mixing.  The  raw  stock  is  run 
through  an  opener  and  three  processes 
of  pickers.  The  hopper  or  feed  box  of 
the  opener  should  be  kept  more  than 
half  full  in  order  to  obtain  as  even  a 
feed  as  possible.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  is  1,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  sheet  is  then  passed  on 
to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  and 
is  struck  from  them  by  the  beater, 
which,  if  of  the  rigid  two-bladed  type, 
makes  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled,  four  into  one, 
at  the  intermediate  picker,  of  which 
the  beater  makes  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  39 
pounds,  or  14^^  ounces  to  the  yard. 
The  laps  are  next 

DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE 
at  the  finisher  picker.  It  is  at  this 
point  that  the  cut-roving  waste  is  mix- 
ed in  the  proportion  of  one  lap  cut 
roving  to  three  laps  raw  stock.  The 
beater  of  this  machine  makes  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  which  gives  42 
beats  per  inch  of  cotton  fed.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is  39 
pounds,  or  a  14 1^ -ounce  lap.  It  will 
thus  be  seen  that  the  doublings  in  a 
picker  room,  where  three  processes  of 
picking  are  used,  will  be  16  against 
a  total  draft  of  14.6,  the  individual 
drafts  at  the  pickers  being  about  1.86 
at  breaker  and  2.80  at  the  intermediate 
and  finisher  pickers.  The  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  card,  the  draft  of  which  for 
this  class  of  goods  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  300 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  top  flats 
making  one  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes. The  card  fillet  of  work  of  this 
class  should  use  No.  32  wire  for  cyl- 
inder and  No.  33  wire  for  doffer  and 
top  flats  (No.  32  wire  equals  90s  Eng- 
lish count  and  No.  33  wire  equals  100s). 
Grind  wire  once  a  month,  strip  three 
times  a  day,  both  cylinder  and  doffer, 
although  some  overseers  strip  the  dof- 
fer once  more.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard  and  the  card  should  produce  be- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


459 


tween  900  and  950  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  See  that  your  knife  blades 
under  the  licker-in  are  properly  set. 
The  two-knife  arrangement  is  better 
than  the  one  knife.     Use 

A  LARGE  SIZE  DOFFER. 

In  setting  your  doffer  to  the  cylinder 
use  a  No.  5  gauge.  Two  processes  of 
drawing  are  generally  used  and  for 
this  class  of  work  it  is  the  general 
custom  to  use  metallic  rolls,  as  they 
are  better  adapted  to  this  class  of 
work  than  the  leather  covered  top 
rolls.  In  calculating  the  production 
turned  off  for  metallic  rolls  always 
add  33  1-3  per  cent  over  that  calculat- 
ed for  leather  covered  rolls.  The  sli- 
ver weighs  about  70  grains  per  yard 
and  with  400  revolutions  per  minute 
of  front  roll  produces  2,100  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  roving  is  then 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  in- 
to 40  hank  roving.  It  is  then  run 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  FLY  FRAMES, 

where  it  is  made  into  1.25  hank  at  the 
first  intermediate  and  2.50  at  the  sec- 
ond. The  roving  is  then  taken  to  the 
spinning  room.  The  particulars  used 
for  a  warp  spinning  frame  making  12s 
yarn  would  be  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
frame,  3  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  2% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  7  to  7%; 
speed  of  spindles,  19,000;  and  for  a  fill- 
ing frame  spinning  12s  u&e:  Gauge  of 
spindle,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  7  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  6,600.  The  yarn  is 
then  spooled,  twisted  into  2-ply  12s 
and  warped,  after  which  it  is  run 
through  a  slasher. 

Colors  for  Boucie. 

Following  are  good  formulas  for 
dyeing  boucie: 

BROWN. 

10  per  cent  thion  brown  G.,  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK    BLUE. 

10  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.,  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


CADET  BLUE. 
8  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  8  per 
cent   sulphide    sodium,     30     per     cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 
4  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  3  per 
cent  immedial   yellow   D.,   7   per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DRAB. 
3  per  cent  thion  black  G.,  %  per  cent 
thion    brown    G.,  3  per  cent  sulphide 
soda,  20  per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent 

Ra\    snrla. 


sal   soda. 


SLATE. 


2  per  cent  immedial  black  NN.,  2  per 
cent  sulphide  soda,  20  per  cent 
Glauber's,  2  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent  immedial  black  NB.,  15 
per   cent   sulphide   soda,    30   per   cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  ecnt  soda  ash. 

SCARLET. 
6  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.,  3  per 
cent  sal  soda,  30   per  cent  Glauber's. 

Ki:.D. 
6  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4B.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


COMBED  YARN  GOODS— 
COTTON  LININGS 

Cotton  lining  is  a  single  cloth,  all 
cotton  fabric,  weighing  from  2  to  2^^ 
ounces  per  yard,  the  goods  finished  at 
201/4  inches,  including  V^  inch  for  sel- 
vage. All  combed  cotton  warp  yarns 
are  used  in  the  production  of  this  fab- 
ric, which,  when  finished,  is  used 
principally  in  the  manufacture  of 
sleeve  linings  and  as  a  stiffening  in 
the  more  expensive  grade  of  ladies' 
and   men's  clothing. 

The  object  of  treating  the  cotton 
while  in  the  sliver  state  to  the  addi- 
tional process  of  combing  is  to  fur- 
ther assist  in  the  operation  of 
straightening  out,  or  paralleling  of  the 
cotton  fibres.  Combed  cotton,  after  be- 
ing spun  into  yarn,  produces  a  smooth, 
round,  even  thread. 


460 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


In  addition,  the  combing  process 
makes  it  possible  to  obtain  a  much 
better  yarn  than  if  it  were  not  done, 
for  not  only  does  the  combing  process 
parallel  the  cotton  fibres,  but  it  re- 
moves a  large  portion  of  the  short  fi- 
bres wfcich  compose  the  roving  or 
yarn.  As  is  well  known,  the  longer 
staples  of  cotton  contain  quite  a  large 
percentage  of  short  fibres,  and  if  these 
are  eliminated,  it  leaves  only  the 
longer  fibres  and  makes  relatively  a 
much  stronger  yarn.  The  reason  for 
this  is  because  the  longer  fibres  have 
more  binding  places  in  the  twisted 
yarn.  It  often  happens  that  the  use 
of  long  cotton  will  permit  of  a  lower 
standard  of  twist,  largely  because  the 
greater  number  of  binding  points  re- 
sult in  more  strength,  than  with  a 
greater  amount  of  twist  and  shorter 
fibres. 

SLEEVE   LININGS 

are  made  of  combed  yarns  which  after 
being  dyed  the  required  color  are 
glazed  or  polished,  and  this  process,  in 
connection  with  the  weave  employed, 
generally  an  eight-harness  satin  warp 
effect  face,  gives  to  the  yarn  in  cloth 
the  appearance  of  a  close  woven  hair- 
cloth fabric.  The  finished  fabric  has 
a  very  smooth,  hard,  even  face, 
though  not  a  harsh  feel. 

■■■■■DBB 

■■aaaaaa 


Weave 

DDDDnnOB 
□□DDDDBn 
DDDDQBna 

DaaDBDDa 
GanBnnDD 

DBDnaaaa 
maaaaaaa 

Drawing-in  Draft 

DDHOniB 

■■DDBBDa 

R«ed  Fla  a 


Linings  are  usually  made  in  solid 
black  color,  or  in  fancy  bright  color- 
ed stripes,  upon  a  black  ground.  The 
colors  forming  the  stripe  patterns  are 
cherry  red,  cadet  blue,  yellow,  red, 
brown,  etc. 

The  glazing  machine  consists  main- 
ly of  a  large  copper  cylinder,  four  or 
five  feet  in  diameter.  This  cylinder  is 
heated  to  a  high  degree  of  intensity 
by  either  gas  or  steam. 


As  the  cylinder  revolves,  there  are 
a  series  of  rollers  working  against  its 
surface,  and  running  in  an  opposite  di- 
rection. These  rollers  are  set  in  the 
machine  frame  above  the  cylinder  and 
at  regular  distances,  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  the  workers  and  stripper  on 
a  woolen  eard. 

The  yarn  is  fed  to  the  machine 
through  a  pair  of  feed  rollers,  from 
which  it  passes  over  the  face  of  the 
cylinder,  and  under  the  small  rollers, 
or,  in  other  words,  between  the  cylin- 
der and  the  small  rollers,  after  which 
it  is  delivered  by  a  pair  of  rollers,  sim- 
ilar to  the  feed  rollers.  The  yarn  is 
run  through  the  machine  twice,  the 
object  being  to  submit  all  parts  of  its 
surface  to  the  friction,  to  cause  the 
glaze  to  come  up. 

The  linings  can  be  woven  on  any 
loom  which  contains  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  harnesses  to  complete  the 
weave,  though  satin  weaves  are  often 
employed,  and  this  makes  possible  the 
use  of  cam  looms,  which  are  probably 
more  economical  for  such  cloth  pro- 
duction. 

Lots  of  trouble  is  thus  developed  by 
the  fancy  strapping  required  to  pro- 
duce the  satin  weave  effects. 

Good  results  are  obtained  by  using 
plain,  single  box  loom,  having  a  dobby 
attached. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  lightly 
starched,  then  run  through  the  calen- 
der two  or  three  times  to  set  the 
smooth,  glazed  finish. 

There  are  many  lining  fabrics  made 
to-day  produced  from  grey  yarns,  and 
after  being  woven  are  bleached  and 
dyed.  These  fabrics  are  then  run 
through  a  machine  which  contains 
rolls  with  fine  lines  engraved  upon 
them.  This  is  often  known  as  a  mill- 
ing process.  It  has  a  tendency  to  flat- 
ten the  threads  composing  the  cloth, 
and  it  impresses  upon  them  many  fine 
lines.  These  lines  reflect  the  light  and 
give  a  high  percentage  of  luster.  On 
many  of  these  cloths  an  examination 
with  an  ordinary  magnifying  glass  will 
show  the  very  fine  lines  which  are 
impressed  upon  the  fabric.  Probably  a 
large  percentage  of  lining  fabrics  are 
made  from  grey  yarns,  and  piece-dyed 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


461 


at  present.  This  is  the  most  econom- 
ical method,  for  it  eliminates  a  great 
many  expensive  processes. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  1,000 — 23  inches  in  reed,  two 
ends  per  dent;  62  picks  l-30s  black 
cotton  filling,  l-20s  cotton  (glazed 
warp)   yarn. 

Warp  pattern:  10  black,  4  cadet 
blue,  10  black,  4  yellow.  Weight,  about 
21/4  ounces;  finish,  20^4  inches.  Eight 
harness  satin  weave;  warp  efifect  face. 

Carding  and   Spinning  Particulars. 

Cotton  linings  are  made  of  various 
counts  of  yarn,  according  to  what 
grade  of  linings  is  wanted.  In  this  ar- 
ticle we  will  consider  that  the  cotton 
warp  yarn  is  l-20s  combed,  and  the 
filling  yarn  l-30s.  The  yarn  for  linings 
of  this  grade  would  be  spun  in  mills 
of  the  second  division,  as  given  in  a 
previous  lesson,  although  yarns  for 
linings  are  made  in  all  three  divisions 
of   mills. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 
used  should  be  of  a  fair  grade,  with  a 
staple  of  about  1%  inches.  This  is 
put  through  a  bale  breaker  and  from 
here  carried  by  a  series  of  endless  lat- 
tices to  its  proper  bin. 

The  bins  to  hold  the  different  grades 
of  cotton  should  be  plainly  marked  on 
both  ends,  showing  the  kind,  grade 
and  length  of  staple,  so  that  no  mis- 
takes will  occur  through  guesswork.  If 
different  lengths  of  staple  get  mixed 
together  it  will  cause  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  at  the  machines,  having  their 
rolls  set  at  a  certain  distance  of  one 
length  of  staple. 

The  cotton  is  fed  to  the  bale  break- 
er in  the  manner  described  in  the  last 
lesson.  The  cotton  is  allowed  to  dry 
out  as  much  as  possible  before  being 
fed  to  the  opener.  The  good  waste  is 
mixed  in  at  the  bins.  This  class  of 
cotton  passes  through  an  opener  and 
either  two  or  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing (generally  two  processes  being 
used).  If  only  two  processes  are  used 
the  particulars  given  for  the  interme- 
diate picker  may  be  omitted.  Use  the 
different  speeds  of  the  opener  and 
pickers  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson. 
The  total   weight  of  the   lap   at    the 


front  end  of  the  breaker  picker  is  50 
pounds,  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard.  This 
is  put  up  at  the  intermediate  and 

DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE 
and  this  lap  at  the  front  end  has  a 
total  weight  of  37  pounds,  or  12  ounces 
to  the  yard.  This  lap  in  turn  is  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  It  is  at  this  point  that  the 
cut-roving  waste  is  mixed  in  in  a  pro- 
portion of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to 
one  lap  of  cut  roving.  The  total 
weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is  35  pounds, 
or  12l^  ounces  to  the  yard.  The  laps 
are  then  put  up  at  the  card,  the  draft 
of  which  should  not  be  less  than  120. 
A  large  doffer  should  be  used;  the 
card  should  be  stripped  three  times  a 
day  and  ground  at  least  once  a 
month. 

The  cylinder  speed  is  160  revolu- 
tions per  minuta;  speed  of  licker-in, 
300  revolutions  per  minute.  The  top 
flats  should  make  one  complete  revolu- 
tion every  35  minutes.  The  production 
of  the  card  should  be  500  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours,  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  being  50  grains  per  yard.  The 
sliver  (in  cans)  to  be  used  for  warp 
yarn  is  collected  and  passed  to  the 

SLIVER  LAP  MACHINE, 
or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  small 
doubler;  here  it  is  doubled  14  into  1 
and  made  into  a  lap.  This  sheet  of  lap 
weighs  395  grains  to  the  yard.  Six  of 
these  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap 
machine,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
the  large  doubler.  These  are  doubled 
into  one  sheet  of  lap,  which  weighs 
260  grains  per  yard.  Six  of  these  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  comber  and  made 
into  a  sliver  weighing  45  grains  per 
yard.  The  speed  of  the  comber  should 
be  about  90  nips  per  minute.  The  ma- 
chine is  set  so  as  to  take  out  18  per 
cent  of  waste.  The  draft  of  this  ma- 
chine for  this  class  of  cotton  should 
be  about  27.50. 

This  sliver  is  then  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  front  rolls  of  this  ma- 
chine is  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
Either  metallic  or  leather  covered  top 
rolls  may  be  used.  The  sliver  is  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .50 


462 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


hank   roving.    This   roving   is   passed 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  being  as  fol- 
lows: At  first  intermediate,  1.50;  at 
second  intermediate,  4.50.  This  is  then 
taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  20s  yarn,  using  a  frame  hav- 
ing a  spindle  gauge  of  2%  inches,  a 
2-inch  diameter  ring,  a  7-inch  length 
of  traverse,  a  spindle  speed  of  9,400 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  a  twist  per 
Inch  of  21.24.  This  yarn  is  next  spool- 
ed, then  warped,  after  which  it  is  put 
through  the  slasher. 
The  weights  and  processes  used  for 
THE  FULLING  YARNS 
are  different  from  the  above.  Starting 
at  the  card,  the  draft  should  be  about 
100;  the  flats  make  one  complete  rev- 
olution every  50  minutes;  the  sliver 
weighs  65  grains  per  yard,  and  the 
production  is  700  pounds  per  week. 
This  is  then  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  drawing,  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  being  73 
grains  per  yard.  The  slubber  roving 
is  .55  hank.  This  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing being  as  follows:  At  the  first  in- 
termediate 2.00  and  at  the  second  7.25 
hank.  This  roving  is  then  taken  to 
either  the  ring  spinning  or  the  mule 
room  and  spun  into  30s  yarn.  If  the 
former,  use  a  frame  having  a  gauge  of 
25  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  Ig  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  6  inches;  speed  of 
spindles,  8,300  revolutions  per  minute; 
twist  per   inch,   19.17. 


dip  aniline  black  is  also  dyed  in  some 
cases,  and  the  oxidized  aniline  salt 
black  is  dyed  to  a  large  extent.  The 
new  sulphur  blacks  ar^e  superseding 
all  other  blacks. 

The  black  and  colored  prints  are 
printed  with  resist  colors,  and  after- 
ward padded  w-ith  aniline  black,  and 
finished  with  calendered  beetle  or 
schreiner  finish.  Most  finishes  are 
very  bright  and  glazed. 


CASHMERE  TWILL 

Cashmere  twill  is  a  light-weight, 
single  cloth,  weighing  from  2^^  to  3 
ounces  per  yard,  finished  at  27  to  28 
inches  wide,  and  composed  of  about 
l-20s  cotton  warp,  and  l-16s  to  l-20s 
cotton  or  cotton  shoddy  filling. 

It  is  usually  woven  with  an  even  or 
uneven  sided  twill  weave,  such  as  ? 

2 

or  —     ,  the  warp  being  all  black,  of 
dyed  yarn,  and  the  pattern  being  print- 


■■Baaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 

DCDnDDDB 
DDDDDDan 

□DDDDaaa 
DnnoBDna 
DaaaDDDQ 
DnaacDca 
aaaaDnDD 
aDDaDUDa 

Drawing'in  Draft 

DDaanDaa 

aaacaaoa 

RtedPlan 


noaanDBB 
□BBDaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
aaaaacaa 
aaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 

Weave 


Docaaana 
aaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
maaDmana 

Drawing-io  Draft 


anaaaraa 

aaaaaaaa 

BMd  Plaa 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

Many  of  the  cheap  linings  are  dyed 
a  logwood  black.  By  some  people  log- 
wood black  is  asked  for  because  the 
goods  gain  In  weight,  as  logwood 
feeds  the  goods,  adds  weight  and  sub- 
stance, and  all  artificial  blacks  reduce 
the  weight  of  the  cloth. 

The  logwood  bath  generally  used  is 
the  steam  black.  First,  the  goods  are 
padded  in  a  solution  of  logwood  about 
5  degrees  Tw.,  dried  over  steam  cans, 
run  through  a  solution  of  bichromate 
of  soda  four  ounces  to  the  gallon,  and 
then  run  through  a  steam  box,  and 
afterward  rinsed  well  in  water.  A  one- 


ed  upon  the  face  of  the  goods  after  the 
weaving  operation. 

THE  PATTERNS 
are  generally  small  effects,  produced 
by  printing  drabs  or  greys  upon  the 
black  ground  in  imitation  of  twist  yarn 
effects,  the  whole  forming  somewhat 
the  appearance  of  a  fancy  mixed 
woolen  fabric. 

This  style  of  cloth  was  used  princi- 
pally in  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  fall 
novelty  suitings,  and  can  be  woven  on 
either  the  plain  cam  or  a  medium- 
weight  loom   having  dobby  attached. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  cloth  is 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


463 


the  printing  machine  to  produce  the 
pattern  upon  the  face  of  the  fabric, 
after  which  the  goods  are  lightly  sized 
and  calendered. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  700 — 30  inches  in  reed,  2  ends 
per  dent — 16  ends  selvage  ^ —  45  de- 
grees twill  weave;  l-20s  cotton  warp 
(black) ;    42  picks  l-16s  cotton  filling. 

1,166  ends  plus  16  equals  1,182  ends 
plus  5  per  cent  take-up  in  warp  in 
weaving  equals  1,227  yards  l-20s  cot- 
ton warp  equals  1.17  ounces;  42  picks 
times  30  inches  equals  1,260  yards 
l-16s  cotton  filling  equals  1.5  ounces. 

1.17  ounces  warp  weight  plus  1.5 
ounces  filling  weight  equals  2.'67 
ounces  per  yard. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  warp  yarn  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  cashmere  twills  may  be  made 
in  either  the  first  or  second  division  of 
mills  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson. 
The  filling  yarn  may  be  made  in  a  cot- 
ton or  in  a  woolen  mill.  For  this  ar- 
ticle we  will  consider  the  warp  and 
filling  yarns  to  be  l-20s.  For  this 
count  of  yarn  a  medium  grade  of  cot- 
ton should  be  used.  A  bale  breaker 
would  not  be  used,  although  it  would 
improve  the  yarn.  The  mixing  would 
be  done  by  hand,  and  as  large  a  mix- 
ing as  possible  would  be  made  at  one 
time.  By  doing  so  there  will  be  a  sav- 
ing of  time  and  also  a  more  even  yarn 
will  be  secured.  The  bales  of  cotton 
should  be  sampled  and  mixed  in  the 
manner  described  in  a  previous  lesson. 

As  the  mixing  is  done  by  hand  it 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible,  so  as  to  dry  out,  thus  making 
the  cotton 

EASIER  TO  HANDLE. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  good  waste 
from  the  machines  up  to  the  slubber 
is  used.  This  waste  should  be  pulled 
apart  as  much  as  possible  before  be- 
ing thrown  into  the  mixing,  so  that  it 
will  not  work  around  the  pin  beater  of 
the  opener,  as  it  is  apt  to  do  when 
left  coiled  up.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  an  opener  and  two  processes 
of  picking. 

The  speed  of  the  beater  of  the  open- 
er should   be   about  1,700  revolutions 


per  minute.  The  hopper  should  always 
be  kept  half  full  and  the  fly  cleaned 
out  at  frequent  and  regular  intervals. 
The  speed  of  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
beater  of  the  breaker  picker  for  this 
stock  should  be  about  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the 
yard. 

THE  LAPS 
are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the  fin- 
isher picker,  and  it  is  at  this  point 
that  the  cut-roving  waste  laps  are  mix- 
ed in  in  the  proportion  of  three  laps 
of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of  cut  waste. 
The  speed  of  this  beater  (two-bladed 
rigid  type)  is  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  will  give  the  cotton  pass- 
ing through  the  machine  about  42 
beats  per  inch  of  cotton  fed.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  39  pounds  or  14  ounces  to  the  yard. 
Take  good  care  of  your  machines  and 
keep  them  well  oiled,  cleaned  and  set, 
and  the  work  will  be  greatly  improv- 
ed, both  as  to  appearance  and  pro- 
duction. The  lap  is  put  up  at  the  card 
and  the  draft  should  not  exceed  100. 
The  flats  should  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  45   minutes. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  cleaned  at  least  twice  a  day 
and  the  fly  taken  from  underneath 
once  a  day.  The  strip  waste  should 
be  gathered  four  times  a  day.  The 
cards  should  be  stripped  (doffers  and 
cylinders)  three  times  a  day  and 
ground  once  a  month,  except  in  the 
case  of  accidents,  when  they  should 
be  ground  until  the  wire  is  level  and 
sharp.  Light  grinding  should  always 
be  used.  Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  pos- 
sible, use  either  one  having  a  26  or  27 
inch  diameter.  The  production  of  a 
card  on  this  stock  should  be  about 
800  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
The   card    sliver   is   then   put   through 

THREE  PROCESSES 
of  drawing  frames.  Metallic  rolls 
may  be  used  to  great  ad- 
vantage on  this  grade  of  stock.  The 
sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  frame  should  weigh  about  70 
grains  to  the  yard.  The  slubber  draws 
this  sliver  into  .40  hank  roving.  It  is 
then  put  through  the  fly  frames.    The 


464 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


roving  for  warp  yarns  is  then  taken  to 
the  ring  spinning  room  and  the  rov- 
ing for  filling  may  be  taken  to  either 
the  ring  spinning  or  the  mule  room. 
For  this  class  of  goods  the  filling  yarn 
is  generally  ring  spun.  For  a  warp 
frame  spinning  20s  use  the  follow^ing 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  23 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  2  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  7  inches;  twist  per 
inch,  21.24;  speed  of  spindle,  9,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  For  a  filling 
frame  use  a  frame  having  a  23  inches 
gauge,  lYz  inches  diameter  ring,  6% 
inches  length  of  traverse,  the  yarn 
having  14.50  turns  per  inch,  and  the 
speed  of  the  spindles  is  7.300  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  warp  yarn  is 
then  spooled,  warped  and  put  through 
a  slasher. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLACK  WARP. 
15  per  cent  sulphur  black,  if  for  jet 
black,  immedial  NN.,  if  for  blue  black, 
immedial  NB.,  15  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  soda  ash.  Dyed  in  a  warp 
dyeing  machine.  After  the  goods  are 
woven  and  cleaned  with  a  good  soap- 
ing and  rinsing,  they  are  sent  to  the 
printer  and  printed  with  different  pat- 
terns and  styles,  to  imitate  mixed 
woolen  fabrics,  and  are  then  finished 
and  made  up  like  woolen  goods. 


BAYADERE  MADE  ENTIRELY 
OF  MERCERIZED  COTTON 

In  a  previous  article  a  description 
was  given  of  a  "bayadere"  fabric,  in 
which  the  materials  of  which  it  was 
constructed  were  cotton,  worsted  and 
silk  and  whose  foundation  was  a  "rep" 
weave. 

It  is  now  intended  to  show  another 
"bayadere"  fabric,  but  which  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  mercerized  cotton 
and  whose  structure  is  based  upon  the 
plain  weave,  the  finished  width  36 
inches  and  the  weight  4%  ounces  per 
finished  yard. 

Such  a  fabric  is  shown  in  Fig.  1, 
which   is  a  very  good   illustration   of 


this  class  of  patterns,  whose  chief  fea- 
ture is  the  zigzag  stripe  extending 
across  the  cloth  in  the  direction  of 
the   weft. 

The  size  and  elaborate  effect  of  this 
pattern  make  it  resemble  a  jacquard 
effect,  but  it  can  in  fact  be  produced 
on  a  comparatively  low  number  of  har- 
nesses. 

Fig.  2  shows  the  full  design,  which 
is  complete  on  64  warp  threads  and  48 
picks. 

As  before  mentioned,  the  plain 
weave  is  used  as  the 

BASIS  OF  THE  FULL  DESIGN, 
and  between  the  stripes   (ground)   all 
the  threads  are  interlaced  on  the  plain 


Fig.   1. 

weave  and  form  a  single  cloth;  but 
the  stripes  themselves  (figure)  are 
formed  by  lowering  all  the  fine  threads 
(marked  |  at  top  of  full  design.  Fig.  2) 
and  raising  all  the  coarse  threads 
(marked  .  )  to  the  surface  of  the  cloth 
and  thus  forming  a  double  cloth,  with 
each  of  the  two  single  cloths  thus 
formed  interlaced  with  the  plain 
weave,  throughout  the  stripe  or  baya- 
dere. 

Fig.     3    illustrates    the    drawing-in 
draft,  which  requires  18  shafts,  10  for 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


465 


the  ground  and  8  for  the  figure 
threads. 

Fig.  4  shows  the  reeding  plan. 

The  material  and  arrangement  of 
the  threads  are  as  follows: 

Warp:  6  threads  2-40s  blue  mercer- 
ized cotton  (one  in  a  heddle),  four 
threads  2-20s  black  mercerized  cot- 
ton (two  in  a  heddle) ;  total,  10  threads 
in  one  repeat  of  pattern. 

950  reed — 38 1/^  inches  wide  to  finish 
36  inches,  40  picks  per  inch. 


weft  the  same  yarn  is  wound  double, 
or  two  threads  on  a  bobbin,  which  is 
done  for  the  following  reason:  In  many 
cloths  from  which  this  particular  pat- 
tern was  derived  the  black  cotton 
used  was  very  much  heavier,  that  is, 
about  2-lOs  or  2-12s,  with  one  thread 
introduced  in  one  heddle,  instead  of 
two  threads,  which  made  the  fabric 
appear  very  coarse  and  open  in  tex- 
ture; therefore,  by  using  two  threads 
of  2-20s  the  same  weight  of  yarn  is 
employed,  but  being  finer,  and  the  two 


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l.B    ■ 

■*•    •     B    B    •    ■ 

BB-liBBa«aBaa  aa«i 


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aaaaaaaa  Baaaaii  aaaaaaa  i  a  a  b  ■  a  a^a  ■  b  b  »_BBaaaai  BaBaaa->  aa 
aaa  b>  aii  aliaaacBaBB  a  •  Baaaia  bbz  b 
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RBI 
BIB        _,- 

B    ■     ~ 


B  a  B  8  ■.  tf.  ■  a  .B  ■ 


_   _   _  .  B  a  B  ■Baaaaa   aa 

BBBflBBBBaaaBBBBBB    ajB.B    B    I    a    B    B    1  B 

■  ■BB   ■BBBia'BBaaBaaa:  'ir  •  a  ■_■  a  b  b  a     a 


Fig.   2. 


Filling:  6  picks  2-40s  blue  mercer- 
ized cotton  (single),  2  picks  2-20s. 
black  mercerized  cotton  (double) ;  to- 
tal, 8  picks  in  one  repeat  of  pattern. 

Fig.  5  shows  the  chain  draft  re- 
quired. The  back  picks  must  positive- 
ly come  on  the   bars   marked. 

It  will  be  noted  that  the  black  2-20$ 
cotton  used  in  the  warp  is  introduced 
2  threads  in  one  heddle,   and   in    the 


threads  lying  side  by  side,  the  cloth 
is  given  a  much  finer  and  closer  tex- 
ture. 

COLORS. 

In  cloths  of  this  description  the  bay- 
adere stripe  is  generally  black,  which 
gives  very  great  freedom  in  the  choice 
of  colors  for  the  ground,  as  any  good 
color  may  be  combined  with  black 
without  any  danger  of  the  other  suf- 


466 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


ferlng   by   being   placed   in  juxtaposi- 
tion. 

THE   REQUIRED  LOOM. 

In  selecting  the  kind  of  loom  for 
weaving  the  above  cloth,  almost  any 
make  of  loom  can  be  used  which  will 
carry  20  shafts  and  have  the  capacity 
of  carrying  at  least   2   shuttles. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
PURPLE. 
On  a  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant,  dye   in   fresh   bath,   1    per  cent 
methylviolet  3R. 

On  tannine  mordanted  yarn  dye  with 
Vz  P^er  cent  rhodamine  5G.,  which  dyes 
a  pink;  for  a  rose  use  2  per  cent  color. 


3DDDnDBDnnnnnDnnng 

DDDUDDDBDQDDDDaaaa 

DDL;DDaaDDaDaapHaDa 

BDODnaaaaaDaDDaBDa 
DDDaaaaaaaaDDBaDa 
BDpaDDDDDDaaaaDBDa 
aaDaaaDDDDaaDBDaa 

aaaDDDDaDDDDDDDBOn 

SaaaBnaaan  DDaDDDDa 
aaDDBaaaaDnGDDGDa 
aaaaauaaa  aaDBDaaaa 
DDDDDrnaaaaDDHDDDa 

DODnDDDDDDnDBDDDDC.' 
nDDDDDDDnnDDGBDnoa 
DnnDDDanDDDDlDDaDLl 
nDnDDDDDnDDDDBDDaa 

BDBDgaDDDDpDDDDDDa 
aDBaODDDoDDDlDDDDa 
DDapgDDDDO«DODDDaa 
pagDDnDDDDnBaDDDDn 

DoaaDDDaDDBDODnnDa 
vc^ao^nQuuu  aaBnnnDDa 
DDananaari  DBDcnnODa 
Dqag3DDna  nn»DannDa 
■Gagaann  inDDDODDDo 
DfiggDDDan  QCiDDDDnaa 
Dggoga  -;n«ac  Daaar  an 
DQgDgDaoaBggDnDDDa 

DDapgaDaaBnDDnDDnn 
oaaggDanBDDDDDDDna 

DDQC""" "" 


□ggggnnna  nBaDDoaDn 
ggnggannannBDnnoa''. 
RSRRSgaaacBSDDDrnn 

ggggggnannBDnDDDDa 
RSSRSSaagnaBnannnn 
□□■aggnagaoonaoar  a 

DgagggananaDBGaaaa 

ogggggnnciDODnBnDnn 
DgRaggoagnnDBDnann 
gggDDgnaannnnBDDDa 
ogggBDnnnnnnnDDDDn 
SgggnBnna  nnnDDDDDa 
SgggggnnrinDoi  dbdoci 
DgGgagaDaannaDDBDD 
nggDggnGaaanDn»DDo 
ngggggDDDnGnDDaBDa 

gnggnangnnnL-inr.nBDn 
ngggogBDnncciDcnoDa 
DggQagnBgDnaDGnDDQ 


BO 

DB 

ma 
ma 

DM 
DB 


Si,     BO 
DB  "^ 

<U     DB 

« sa 

BQ 


Chai-1  Draft. 

aaaBnBnBDDDBDBDBDB - 
aGBUBaaaDDBGBDBDBD - 
GBOBGBGBDBaaOBGBBB 
BGBGBGBDBGBC  BDBaBB 
GBGBGBDBGBDBDBDBBB 
BGBaBGBGBDBGBGBGBB 
DBGBGBGBGBDBGBaBBB 
BaaDBGBG ■DBGBGaCBB 
DBGBGaOG  DOGIDBCBOB  • 

BGBGaaaG  DDaoaraDBD ■ 

GBaBGBGBnBDaGBBaBB 
BnaGaQIGBOaGBGIBIB 

GanBGBGBOBGaoBaaaB 
BGajajaGaoaGacBBBB 
oaaa jBGia  BGBGBBaB  a 
BGaja jaGaDBGaGBaaa 
DBaaanaGgDQBQBDacB ■ 
BaaGaaanDaaGBDacBD • 
auGBGa  jaGBGaBBBaaB 

B3«aail3aBOaDBBBBBB 
GBGa  ]a JanBGBBBBBBB 
BGB'Ja  jaoaGBCBBBBBB 
GfljajB  jBGaGBBBBBBB 

^  BJBJBJi  iBcacaaaaBB 

■*±    GBnajJJGdBCBGBCBDB- 
g  BGGDJ  ]  laaDBGBGBDBD ■ 

o  QBGaDaGaaaBBaBBaDB 

^    BGBJiaaiBDBBBBBaBD 

V^    GBGBGl    aCBBBBBRBGB 

BGB   IBGBGBC  ■■kaBBBG 

L  aGajaiBaBBBBiaauB 
BnaGaiaaaoaaBBaBBD 

DGGGGGGBaBDBCaCaCB ' 

aGDGaaaaBDBDBCBDBn ■ 
□BGB  aaGBDaBBBaraGB 

aGBGBOaaaDaBBBBCBD 
DaGBGaGaGaaBBBCBCB 
B  JBGaaaQIGBBBBBDBD 

DB  ^tGiaaaaBaaaGaDB 

BGBJIiaaGIDBBBBBOBG 
DGGGG IDB  D  BDBCBDBCB - 
naaGBGBGBnBCBGBDBD - 
DBGBGaGBGBBBDBGBCB 

B  WGBGBnaoaaBDBGaG 

GBGBGBGBGBBBCBDBCB 
BDBGBGBGBGBBBDBDBD 
GBGBnaGBGBBBrBCBaB 
BGBGBGBDaDBBBDBaBD 

Fig.  5. 


g'-' ^  i^  i:^  i-J  J  Q  LJ  □  D  Q  Lj  LJ  LJ  LJ  LJ  ■  l_I 
aggggonaaonGDaaDB 
gguDGnnDnDanDnDBD 
DaaaDaaDDDannDDDB 


FINISH. 

A  dry  finish  only  is  required  for  this 
fabric  and  the  process  is  as  follows: 
After  being  burled  and  mended  the 
cloth  is  brushed  and  steamed  and 
then  pressed  so  as  to  give  as  much 
luster  as  possible.  After  being  rolled, 
the  cloth  is  then  ready  for  shipment. 


SCARLET. 
3   per  cent  diamine   scarlet,   30   per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
CHINA  BLUE. 
On   tannine   mordanted   yarn   dye    1 
per  cent  new  methylene  blue  GG. 
SKY   BLUE. 
3  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


467 


NAVY  BLUE. 
*    per   cent   diamine   black   BH.,    30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
TURQUOISE   BLUE. 
On  a  tannine  mordant  dye  IVz   per 
cent  turquoise   blue  G. 

EMERALD  GREEN. 

On  a  tannine  mordant  dye  2  per  cent 
emerald  green  cryst. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
Vz  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.,  1 
per  cent  diamine  brown  B,  20  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
BROWN. 
2   per  cent  tetrazo  brown  R.,  1  per 
cent  tetrazo   brown  GG.,   30   per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
RED. 
4  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  BS.,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
HELIOTROPE. 
2   per  cent   tetrazo  lilac  R.,    30   per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ORANGE. 
2   per   cent    tetrazo   orange    TR. 
per   cent   Glauber's,    3    per    cent 
soda. 

SLATE. 
y2   per  cent  diamine  black   BH. 
per  cent  oxydiamine  black  A.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


30 
sal 


V2 


PIQUE 


Pique  is  a  heavy  cotton  material 
woven  in  corded  or  figured  effects. 
The  goods  are  used  for  such  purposes 
as  ladies'  so-called  tailor-made  suits, 
vestings,  shirt  fronts,  cravats,  bed- 
spreads and  the  like. 

The  plainest  and  most  common  fab- 
rics of  pique  are  those  in  which  the 
pattern  consists  of  straight  cords  ex- 
tending across  the  cloth  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  weft.  In  the  construction 
of  these  fabrics  both  a  face  and  a 
back  warp  are  required  and  the 
cords  are  produced  by  all  the  back 
warp  threads  being  raised  at  inter- 
vals of  6,  8,  etc.,  picks  over  two  or 
more  picks  of  the  face  cloth,  which  has 
a  tendency  to  draw  down  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  fabric.    These  fabrics  are 


generally  woven  and  sold  in  a  white 
state,  but  in  recent  years  there  has 
been  a  certain  percentage  of  the  goods 
made  with  colors,  one  color  being  used 
for  the  ground  of  the  cloth  and  another 
for  the  ribbed  or  tucked  portion. 
Some  seasons  this  is  noted  more  than 
at  other  times,  but  color  is  sometimes 
used. 


usiaaeaoBBDSB 
mmammamiSiDmiia 
camanmaamaDm 
■aDaaDBaaaaa 
■aaasaaoBBsa 
aaaaaaaoaaaa 
■DDaDDaacaDa 
■saaaaasaaaa 
ggaDaaoaaDaa 
■uaaaaaaaaaa 

Fig.  2. 


The  face  warp  threads  are  generally 
finer  than  the  back  warp  threads  and 
are  in  the  proportion  of  two  threads 
for  the  face  and  one  thread  for  the 
back. 

In  the  diagram  Fig.  1,  which  is  a 
sectional  cut  of  a  fabric  woven  with 
the  design  Fig.  2,  the  heavy  black  lines 
represent  the  back  warp  threads,  and 
it  will  be  noticed  that  they  are  raised 
over  two  of  the  face  picks,  represented 
by  the  small  dots   (.). 

The  heavy  dots  (.)  represent  the 
back  picks,  which  interlace  with  the 
back  warp  threads  only.  The  fine 
lines  represent  the  face  warp  threads. 


468  A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 

In  the  heavier  and  better  grades  of  of   binding  the  face   and   back   cloths 

pique    heavy   or   coarse   picks,   called  together.    As  a  result  of  this  method 

wadding     are    used    to  increase     the  of  binding,  the  cloth  is  characterized 

weight  and  also  to  give  more  promi-  by    the    embossed    appearance    of   the 

nence  to  the  cord  effect.  They  are  in-  figures.      In    the    best     grades    heavy 

troduced  between  the   face   and  back  wadding  picks  are  used  and  these  tend 

cloths,   as  illustrated  by  the   diagram  to   greatly  heighten  the   raised   effect 

Design. 

GlSaaBaiBanBaaBaDBaaBaDaDDanoaaDBDDBDDaaDBDDBDDBDDBDDB 

BaSBaaBaBBaaBaBBaBBDBaGBBaBBGBBaBBaBBDaBnBBDBBaaBaBBDB 

BGaSajaGDBffljBGaBziaaanBDaBnaBaaaDaaaDaaaaanaDDaDDaaDaga 

BGBBlBiJBBiBaOBB'&BaOBB^aBaaBiSBBaBafflBB    BBSaBGBaaaagBBgB 

DaSGaaaaBaGBGSBGaBaaBGGBnGBaaaaaaaaBaDBaDBDDanDaaaaagB 

BGfllGaBGSaGBBJBaaBBDBBGBBGlBGBBGaBGBBaBBDBBDBBCBBGBBga 

BGGBaGBaGaflaaaaaaaaaaaGaanauGDBDDaaaaDDBDDaDDBDaagcBqa 
B-saaGaasBaGaB£aBGBasaaGaa:itaaGBasBBDaBffiBaGaBffiaBDaB£BBua 

DGBOGB  .aBaaBG^BaDBDfflBaGBGGBGDBDDBnnBGGBaaBaDBDDBaDBGDB 
BGBBGBBaBBDBBGBBDBaGBBaaBaBaGBBGBBaaBaBBaBBOBBGBBQBBgB 

BaGBGaaGaaaaaGGaaaaaaasaBacDBDaaaGBnDBDDaQDBL^DBDaaaDacn 

BGaasaa  laasaaaaa'SaaGBa^aaGaBraaBjBaaaaGaati'aaDaas'BaaBBsa 

•  aG«Ga«GGBGaBaGBaGHaBBGaBa««aGiiGGBGGBDDBaDBaa«aaBuD«aa» 

BGIBGBBJBBGaBGBBGBBGaaGBBGBBGBBGBBDBBGBaaBBDBBaBBaBBaB 
BaGBGGBGaBaGBGGBGGBaaBaGBGaB-flGBGGBaGBGOBDaBDaBnaBaaBaa 
BSBBGBaSBBGBa^aBDBaeBBBGBBSBBGBBtSBBGBBffiBBGBBSBaGBBaBBGB 

naaaaaGGBGaaGGBGGBnGBGaaGGBGDBGGBaaBDGBODBaaaaGBGsBDaB 
aGaaGBBGaaGaaGBaaaBGBBGBBGBaGaBOBaGBBaaaQBaaaaaBBGBBQB 
aaaaGGaaaa jaaaDaaaaGDaGGaGaaaGBDGanaaaDanaaDnafflaaaDaffla 
aaaasaaGaaaaajaaaaBGaaaiaGaa^aaDaasaaaaasaaDaasaaGaa^B 
DGanaaGaaaaaGGaGaaaaaGGiGGaaGaaaaaaaDaaDGaGfflBa  aaaaGnB 
BGaaGaaaaa  aaGaaGaaaaaGaaGaaGaaGaaGaaGaaaaaGaanaaGaaGB 
aGaaaaaaaaGaaoGanGaaGaDGaaGaGaaGaaaGaDDaajGBGnBfflDaaGaDa 
B'BaaGBasaa  aasaaGaasaaaaBsaaGBasaBaaBaBBDaaaBaaaai&aBaB 
GaaGGaGaaaGaaoaaaaGaaaaaGDaGDaGDaaGaasjaaDaafflaaGaaGaQDa 
aGaaGaaQaaoaaGaaGaaGaaGaaGaaoaaaaaGaaaaaDaBDaaGaaaaaGa 
aGaaGGaGGaGnaaGaaGaGDaGDaaaanGaGGafflaanaaaaanaaDGaGGann 
aGaaisaaGaasaaGaasaaDaaaaaGaaffiaaGaasaaGaasaaaaafflaaaaasa 
mBGaajGaaaaGaaGGaaGaGnaGaaaaaafflaGGaGBaGaaaGaa^aaaaaDB 
BaaaGaaGaaGBaGaaGaaGaaaaaGaaaaaGaaGaaGaaGBBGaaGaaaaaaB 
• BaaaaGBDGaaaaaGBaaaGaaaGBaGaGGaaaBfflDBaaaaaaQaaGGBGaBaa 
Fig.  i. 

Figure  3,  designated  by  dots  o.  of  the  figures.  The  effect  produced  is 

In  the  lightest  and  cheapest  grades,  about  the  same  as  when  two  light 

neither  any  wadding  nor  back  picks  cloths  are  laid  together  with  wadding 

are  used.  In  this  case  the  back  warp  between  and  then  stitched,  together  on 

threads  float  on  the  back  of  the  fab-  a  sewing  machine,  the  stitching  being 

ric,  except  when  raising  over  the  face  in  the  form  of  figures. 

picks  to  form  the  cord.  White  Marseilles  bedspreads  are  the 

Drawing-in-Draft. 

aaaGaGnGaaGGnmaGaaaaGaanQanaGGnnaGDDnnnnnaDnnaapgqaaq 
naaaaaaGnGGanGGaGGGaaGaGGGGGDaGaaGGaaaQaDGGUGG^Daaggca 
DanGGjaaaGGGaaDaaaaaaGaGGaaLjGDaaaauGGajDGaDaGGaGGgGggg 
nGaGGaaaaaajaaaaGaaGGGGGGGaGGGGGGaaaGGGQaaGaaGGaDa^ggD 
aaaaaaGaGjaaaaGaaGGGGGGaGGGGGGGGGGaGaGGGBGnGaGDagggGDa 
DGGaGaaaaaaDaaaGGG  aGGGGGGGGGGGnDaGGGaaGaGGGGGGpGGaDGg 
naaaaDaaaaaGaaaGOGaGGGGQGGGGGGGGGaBGaGanGaaaGaaggaDnDq 
DGGaaaaaaaaaa  jaGaGGGGGGGGnGGGGGBGcar GGGGGGaGGaGggGDagg 
aaGaaaaaaaaaaanaaaDGGaaaGGGaaGaaGaGGGGGGGGQGagaggggggn 
DaaaaGGaaaaaaaaaGG  DDaDGGacaaGGGaaGGaaGGGaGGGDaaGGaDDn 
aaaaaaaaaDaaaDaDunGnGDaGGGGaoGGGanaaGGDDGCGaaGGaGaagDg 
GuaaaaHaaaaanaanDnaaGQaGGGGGGGaGGnDGGGanGGGaaGGagacDgg 
anaaaaaDaaaaanGaaaaGaaaGGGGGGGGGaGaGGaGaaGGGGGQaaaDaag 
nacaaDaaaaanQBaGGGGGGGanaaGGaaaaGGGGagGgggaDaggggagggG 

nnDGGDaDaDBGaaaGGGGaGGGGGGGGGGDGGGGGGaGGOgDGaGGnaaDgnD 

DaaaaaaBGannaaDaaacGDGaaGaaaGGaGaoGGaaaDaGGGGDDDggggng 
nDaGBaannaaaaaaaaaGDnaGGGGGgGGaGGGGGQaaGDGGaGaaGaaaGpg 
aaaGaaDaDnDDnDDDaDaaanDGaGaaGGGGGG-aaaaGaaGGOGaaGaGggg 
DaanDBaannDBDDnocBaaaDnBGGGGDaGacGaaGaanaBGaGGaaaDgaGB 
aaaaDGDnDBanDaDBGDaQQaGaGGaaGGaGGaGGGaGBGaGaGaaDGGaaag 
aaBDaDGnBnDannBDDaGDBtxiDOGaaGGaDBGGGaGBGnaGGBnGaGaBQaa 
BDaaaaBaaDGaBDDGDaBDaDaaaaGaGaaaaDnDBaGaGDBaDDaaBDQaDa 

Reeding    Plan. 

aGGBBBGGGBBaGGaaBBnnnaBBnanBBBGanBBBnaaBBBaanBBBDnGBBji 
aaaGGGaaaaaaaaaGGGBaaGaGaaaGGGaaaGGGaBBaGGBaaGGGaaaaaa 
Fig.  5. 

FIGURED  PIQUE.  highest    and    most   elaborate   form   of 

In  the  figured  pique  the  binding  of  piques,  and  in  these  the  pattern  cov- 

the   back  warp  threads  into  the  face  ers    the    entire     spread.     Geometrical 

cloth  is  not  done  in  straight  lines  as  in  figures,  birds,  foliage  and  most  every 

the  plain  pique,  but  the  binding  points  conceivable  manner  of  form  are  used, 

are  introduced  so  as  to  form  figures.  and  all  being  embossed,  the  ultimate 

These  fabrics  are  woven  in  the  white  effect   is    very    fine.     In    the   example 

and  the  figures  are  purely  the  result  which  we  shall  take,   a   small   figure 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


469 


pique  is  given,  with  the  following  for 
the 

ANALYSIS   OF  THE   FABRIC: 
Width  of  warp  in  reed  (without  sel- 
vage), '68  inches;   width  of  fabric  fin- 
ished, 36  inches;   ends  per  inch,  100; 
ends  in  warp,  3,600—1,200  x  3  reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 
per  cent;   weight  of  fabric,  per  yard. 

Chain  Draft. 

■■aBfflaanfflnaDffinEneaffiOBD 
DiiJBfflaBBaDDncnaaDDDDDDD 

■■■■naDDaDGDDuCDaDDQnD— 

■DBaDffiDfflnnDaanaDDaaaDa 
■■■■aaaffiDEBDHDasDffiasDSDS 
DBnBciDsnfflJDDaananDDGan 
;■■.         ■■■■aannnDDaaoGDaDODDa— 
■□■DnaafflDannDDDDDGGGDa 

■  ■■■BafflGiJlDEBafflDaini^OfflCSD 

DBaBDaananisannanaaacna 
■■■■□DDDDaannDDcnDannD— 
■□■GGDDoaaG'i'DDnana  'Gaa 
■■■■GfflafflGSG^G^G'BafflaBGa 
^  DBa«aGGGaG»?ns»~aacaaaGa 

C    ■■■■GGanaGGGGGGGGGnGGa 
o    ■GaGGGGGGGGSGiSaGGGGGGG— 
U     ■■■■aDBG'i'GSGiBGBGtBafflafflD 

t,  DBaBGaaaaGCDGGQaaGGGsa 
^  ■■■■annanaGaaGnnGGGGGG 
■nBDannnaao  ^aGaGGGGfflGB— 
■■■■□ffloaDaG5n5ia5>GBDfBaa 
□■□■GaaaDDGGaaGGGGanfflD 
■■■■DGnaoGGGGGnnanaana 

■  GBaaaaGGriaGGGaaGfflnsnD— 
■■■■SGaaigG^iaaa'^GfflGsnan 
D»a«aGnaaaGGDaQaaa^DGa 
■■■■GGGGGna  "'GGGGnaGnan 
■GBaaG~iDaDaGGaa»aaGGnG— 
■■■■Gen?aaa'?G*Gaaf?n^aiB 
□■aaGGGOnnn  nanigawaaaDa 
■■■■aaGDGGGGnaLiGaGnDGa 
■QBanaDDDDanafflDaDDnoDa— 

Fig.  6. 

from  loom,  91  ounces;  shrinkage  of 
fabric  in  length  during  finishing,  2  per 
cent;    finished  weight,   9  ounces. 

Dressing:  3  threads  in  pattern.  One 
thread,  l-30s  white  carded  peeler  cot- 
ton; 1  thread,  2-30s  white  carded 
peeler  cotton;  1  thread,  l-30s  white 
carded  peeler  cotton;  equals  3. 

Filling:  4  picks  repeat  of  pattern, 
168  picks  per  inch.  One  pick,  l-30s 
white  carded  peeler  cotton;  1  pick, 
l-9s  white  carded  peeler  cotton;  2 
picks,  l-30s  white  carded  peeler  cot- 
ton; equals  4. 

In  Fig.  4  is  shown  the  full  design. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  the  drawing-in 
draft  on  22  harnesses — 4  required  for 
the  face  warp  threads  and  18  for  the 
back  warp  threads.  The  reeding  plan 
is   also   given. 

Fig.  6  is  the  required  chain  draft. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

For  the  plain  pique  a  dobby  loom 
having  drop  boxes  and  from  4  to  16 
shafts  only  is  required,  but  for  the 
figured  pique  a  loom  of  more  intricate 
construction  is  required,  and  the 
Crompton  &  Knowles  Loom  Company 


build  a  loom  especially  adapted  for  the 
purpose.  Their  jacquard  machine, 
which  is  of  the  rise  and  drop  type,  is 
especially  adapted  for  the  weaving  of 
Marseilles  quilts,  and  has  features  that 
dispense  with  the  so-called  "plain 
card,"  using  only  the  figure  card. 
FINISHING. 
These  fabrics,  after  being  scoured 
and  bleached,  are  hot  pressed,  rolled  or 
folded,  and  are  then  ready  for  ship- 
ment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Pique  is  made  up  in  various  ways 
and  is  constructed  of  yarns,  the  count 
of  which  varies  from  very  coarse  to 
very  fine.  The  fabric  which  is  describ- 
ed is  considered  as  being  made  up  of 
l-30s  and  2-30s  in  the  warp  and  l-30s 
and  l-9s  in  the  filling.  For  making  this 
grade  of  cloth  the  machinery  found  in 
the  second  division  of  mills  would  be 
used. 

THE  COTTON  USED 

would  be  a  good  grade  of  "peeler,"  of 
about  1%-inch  staple.  This  cotton 
would  be  brought  from  the  storehouse 
and  each  bale  sampled;  all  those  balea 
not  up  to  sample  should  be  laid  one 
side.  The  bales  of  the  same  length 
of  staple  should  be  opened  and  fed 
to  the  bale  breaker  alternately  from 
each  bale  in  small  lots  at  a  time.  From 
the  bale  breaker  the  cotton  is  carried 
to  the  bins  by  lattice  work  or  by 
trunking  and  a  blower  and  fan.  The 
mixing  should  be  allowed  to  stand  in 
the  bins  as  long  as  possible  before  be- 
ing used,  so  that  the  cotton  will  be 
free  from  moisture.  It  is  at  this  point 
that  the 

GOOD  WASTE 

from  the  machines  up  to  the  slub- 
ber is  mixed  in,  the  sliver  being  torn 
into  short  lengths  before  being  thrown 
into  the  mixing.  The  raw  stock  is  put 
through  an  opener  and  either  two  or 
three  processes  of  picking.  If  three 
processes  of  picking  are  used  for  the 
intermediate  picker  the  same  partic- 
ulars are  followed  as  in  the  case  of 
the  finisher  except  where  noted. 

The  hopper  of  the  opener  should  be 
always  kept  more  than  half  full  of  raw 


470 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


stock,  so  as  to  feed  an  even  sheet  of 
cotton  to  the  breaker  picker.  The 
speed  of  a  porcupine  beater  of  this  ma- 
chine should  be  about  1,050  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  speed  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type  beater  for  the  breaker  pick- 
er should  be  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  fan  speed  being  1,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  40 
pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  If  an  inter- 
mediate picker  is  used,  the  laps  are 
doubled  four  into  one  and  the 

TOTAL  WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  should  be  37  pounds,  or 
a  13-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  At  this  point  the  cut-rov- 
ing waste  is  mixed  in,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  one  lap  of  waste  to  three  laps 
of  raw  stock.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  about  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  the  machine  about  42  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  35 
pounds,  or  a  12i/^-ounce  lap.  Look  out 
for  your  fan  drafts  to  see  that  they 
are  properly  regulated  so  as  to  obtain 
an  even  lap.  The  laps  are  then  put 
up  at  the  card. 

THE  CARD 
should  have  a  draft  of  not  more  than 
100.  The  count  of  wire  fillet  used 
should  be  medium,  the  wire  for  the 
tops  and  doffer  being  one  number  finer 
than  for  the  cylinder.  The  card  should 
be  ground  at  least  once  a  month  and 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day. 
The  flats  should  make  one  complete  , 
revolution  every  50  minutes.  Use  a 
large  doffer,  either  26  or  27  inches  in 
diameter.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  65  grains  per  yard,  the  pro- 
duction for  a  week  of  60  hours  being 
750  pounds.  The  sliver  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames; 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  350 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  doublings 
are  6  into  1.  The  draft  of  the  first 
intermediate  is  about  5.5,  the  second 
5.75,  and  the  third  5.75;  the  sliver 
weighing  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
about  72  grains  per  yard.  The  sliver  is 
then  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .50  hank  roving.  This  roving  is 
then     put      through      two      process- 


es of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  the  first  intermediate 
being  2.00,  and  at  the  second  be- 
ing 7.50.  This  makes  all  the  roving 
for  this  cloth,  except  for  the  9s.  This 
is  made  from  a  2.00  hank  roving.  The 
roving  for  warp  yarns  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  and  made  into  30s  yarn. 
From  here  it  is  spooled  and  part  of  it 
twisted  into  2-30s  yarn,  after  which  it 
is  warped  and  slashed.  The  filling 
yarn  may  either  be  mule  or  ring  spun. 
We  will  consider  this  yarn  to  be  ring 
spun.  The  particulars  to  use  for  No. 
30s  would  be  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
Ig  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  8,300  revolutions  per 
minute;  to  spin  9s  use  1%-inch  di- 
ameter ring,  7-inch  traverse,  and  a 
spindle  speed  of  6,200  revolutions  per 
minute.  Part  of  the  30s  yarn  is  twist- 
ed into  2-30S. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
PEARL. 
Dye  in  the  jigger  dyeing  machine 
with  15  gallons  liquor,  50  pounds 
weight  of  goods,  175  degrees  F.,  one- 
half  pound  of  soda  ash,  one-half  pound 
sulphide  sodium,  1  pound  common  salt, 
3  ounces  immedial  black  V  ex.,  1  ounce 
immedial  brown  B.  Run  the  goods  for 
40  minutes;  add  in  two  portions  the 
dyestuffs;  rinse  and  aftertreat  with  % 
per  cent  bichromate  potash,  '^  per 
cent  sulphate  copper,  at  170  degrees 
F.,  and  rinse  well.  Give  a  weak  soap- 
ing if  required. 

CREAM. 
Dye   with   the   same   proportions   as 
for  pearl,  and  in  the  same  way,  with 
one-half    ounce    immedial    yellow    D., 
one  ounce  immedial  cutch  G. 
BUFF. 
Dye  with  same  proportions  as  pearl, 
with  6  ounces  immedial  bronze  A. 
LIGHT  SLATE. 
Dye  with  same  proportions  as  pearl, 
6   ounces  immedial  black  V. 
DRAB. 
As   light    slate;    2    ounces    immedial 
black  V;  6  ounces  Immedial  bronze  A. 
LIGHT  BROWN. 
On  the  jigger,  as  pearl;   3  per  cent 
immedial  cutch  G.,  3  per  cent  sodium 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


471 


sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  15  per 
cent  common  salt. 

LIGHT  OLIVE  DRAB. 

Dye  as  pearl;  one-half  pound  pyro- 
gene  yellow  M.,  14  ounces  pyrogene 
olive  N. ;  4  ounces  pyrogene  cutch  2G. ; 
after-treat  as  pearl. 


MADRAS  GINGHAM 

Madras  gingham  is  distinctly  a 
shirting  fabric  and  is  an  article  of  fine 
quality.  Zephyr  gingham  is  a  dress 
gingham  and  is  lighter  and  of  softer 
finish  than  the  madras  gingham. 

Madras  gingham  is  distinguished 
from  the  common  gingham  by  the  fine- 
ness of  the  texture  and  the  richness  of 
the  patterns  employed.  In  the  com- 
mon gingham  the  plain  weave  is 
chiefly  used  and  the  patterns  consist 
only  of  stripes  and  checks  formed  by 
contrasting  colors — principally  white 
with  some  other  color — "and  is  chiefly 
made  on  cam  looms. 

The   Fabric. 


■    ■.?■    I     ■■■ : — TTT^ 

*     i     -' 

'A'      I       - 

1  f  -          ;: 

i      '  t 

>                                      -> 

Fig.    1, 

In  the  madras  ginghams 
VARIOUS   WEAVES    ARE    USED 

in  combination  with  the  plain  weave 
which  is  always  used  for  the  ground, 
while  very  often  leno  weaves  are  in- 
troduced for  ornamentation. 

The  number  of  colors  used  in  con- 
junction with  white  often  reaches  as 
high  as  five  and  six  in  a  single  pattern, 
while  printed  yarns  are  extensively 
used  with  fine  effect. 

Fig.  1  is  a  very  neat  illustration  of  a 
madras  gingham  in  a  leno  stripe  effect. 


The  chief  features  of  this  pattern  are 
the  leno  diamond  stripe  on  a  back- 
ground of  old  rose,  and  the  heavy 
cords  of  white  and  of  tan.  The  blue 
stripe  between  the  white  cords  is  also 
a  prominent  feature. 

ANALYSIS    OF   THE   FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed  (selvage  in- 
cluded), 291/^  inches;  width  of  fabric, 
finished,  28  inches;  size  of  reed  re- 
quired, 1,600 — ends  per  dent,  2  and  3; 
ends  in  warp,  2,616. 

For  l-50s  plain  weave,  IVz  per  cent 
take-up;  for  3-50s  cords,  no  take-up. 
and  for  3 -50s  leno  crossing  threads 
50  per  cent  take-up. 

Number  of  beams  required,  3  (on 
account  of  the  various  take-ups). 
Weight  of  fabric  per  yard  from  loom, 
1%  ounces. 

Shrinkage  of  fabric  in  length  during 
finishing,  2  per  cent.  Finished  weight, 
1.92  ounces. 

Pattern  for  beaming: 

136  threads  per  pattern. 

19  repeats  of  pattern  in  warp. 


X     4 

0  1 
X  2 
0  1 
X  10 
•      1 


0      2 
X     8 

•  1 
X     6 

•  1 
X  10 


X  S 
X     2 

*  1 
X     2 

•  1 
X  2 
X  10 
0  I 
X  2 
0  1 
X     2 


threads   l-50s  white  cotton, 
thread    3-50s    white    cotton, 
threads    l-50s    tan    cotton, 
thread    3-50s    white    cotton, 
threads    l-50s    white    cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white   cotton, 
threads   l-50s   fr.   blue   cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white   cotton, 
threads   l-50s    white    cotton, 
threads   l-50s  fr.    blue  cotton   as   1. 
tlireads   l-50s    white    cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white  cotton, 
threads   l-50s   fr.   blue  cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white   cotton, 
threads    l-50s    white    cotton, 
thread    3-50s   white    cotton, 
threads    l-50s    tan    cotton, 
thread    3-50s    white    cotton, 
threads   l-50s   white   cotton, 
thread    3-50s    white    cotton, 
threads    l-50s    tan    cotton, 
thread    3-50s   white    cotton, 
threads    l-50s    white    cotton, 
threads   l-50s   fr.   blue  cotton. 
thread   3-50s  white  cotton, 
threads   l-50s  fr.   blue  cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white  cotton, 
threads    l-50s   fr.   blue  cotton, 
threads   l-50s    white    cotton, 
threads   l-50s   fr.    blue  cotton   as   1. 
threads    l-50s    white    cotton, 
threads   l-50s  fr.    blue   cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white  cotton, 
threads   l-50s  fr.    blue   cotton, 
thread   3-50s  white  cotton, 
threads   l-50s   fr.    blue  cotton, 
threads    l-50s    white    cotton, 
thread    3-50s    white    cotton, 
threads    l-50s    tan    cotton, 
thread    3-50s   white   cotton, 
threads    l-50s    white   cotton. 


Total  136  threads. 


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ss 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


473 


Put  threads  marked  x  on  bottom 
beam. 

Put  threads  marked  0  on  middle 
beam. 

Put  threads  marked  *  on  top  beam. 

In  a  good  many  instances  the  yam 
is  placed  upon  the  loom  beams  as  pre- 
viously described,  but  there  are  a 
number  of  plants  at  least  where  the 
cord's  and  ground  yarn  are  placed  upon 
the  same  beam.  Naturally,  leno  yarn 
would  have  to  be  placed  upon  a  top 
beam  because  of  the  excessive  take- 
up.  The  only  methqd  which  permits 
two-ply  yarn  and  single  yarn  to  be 
placed  upon  the  same  beam  is  through 
the  correct  amount  of  tension  upon 
the  warp  beams  when  the  loom  beam 
is  being  run.  A  good  many  consider 
that  this  method  is  never  possible,  but 
there  are  many  instances  where  it  is 
successful  and  economical.  There  are 
many  cases  where  the  selvages  are 
made  of  rather  heavy  two-ply  yarn^ 
and  this  yarn  is  run  upon  the  loom 
beam  together  with  the  warp  yarn 
which  composes  the  body  of  the  fabric. 

l-50s  cotton  must  be  well  sized. 

Number  of  threads  of  each  color  in 
pattern:  l-50s  white,  84;  l-50s  tan,  28; 
1-50S  fr.  blue,  8;  3-50s  white,  16;  to- 
tal,  136. 

Number  of  threads  of  each  color  in 
warp:  l-50s  white,  1,628';  l-50s  tan, 
532;  1-50S  fr.  blue,  152;  3-50s  whixe, 
304;   total,  2,616. 

Filling:  72  picks  per  inch;  all  white 
l-60s  cotton. 

The  full  design  is  illustrated  at  Fig. 
2,  and  is  complete  on  136  warp  threads 
and  12  picks.  The  drawing-in  draft  is 
illustrated  at  Fig.  3,  and  is  com- 
plete on  7  harnesses  and  2  doup 
shafts. 

Fig.  4  is  the  reeding  plan. 

Fig.  5  is  the  harness  chain  draft  for 
12  bars. 

THE  LOOM   REQUIRED. 

Any  ordinary  dobby  loom  with  a 
leno  attachment  can  be  said  to  be 
satisfactory  for  making  most  of  these 
leno  ginghams  or  shirting  materials. 
A  close  shed  loom  is  seldom  used  for 
such  purposes,  because  it  operates  at 
so  slow  a  speed,  and  for  this  reason 
most  of  the  ordinary  leno  attach- 
ments are  applied  to  open  shed  looms. 


A  good  many  looms  upon  which  fancy 
leno  patterns  are  produced  contain 
from  20  to  25  harnesses.  Due  to  the 
change  in  demand,  it  is  possible  to 
sell  a  much  wider  cloth  of  the  char- 
acter described  than  it  was  some  years 
ago. 

One  of  the  features  which  is  seldom 
mentioned,  but  which  is  often  of  im- 
portance to  manufacturers  of  colored 
yarn  goods  of  the  character  described 

Chain  Draft 

□anBOBnan  □ 
□□■□■DBDO  a 
smamamamo    m 

DDBaaQBOD  Di  • 

DDDBDBDBn  DS 

-.fflDBaBDBDa  m 

gnDDBQBDBn  Qi 

iDOBDBQBDn  B* 

msamomama  m 
oDBDBnBaa   a 

DDnBDBDBa  □ 
ffiQBDBDBaS     a 

Fig.   5. 

is  in  regard  to  the  appearance  of  cer- 
tain colors  after  the  cloth  is  finished 
In  such  fabrics,  if  a  dark  color  be  used 
next  to  a  light  one,  the  various  fi- 
bres of  cotton  will  project  from  the 
dark  threads  and  cause  a  very  un- 
satisfactory appearance  upon  the  light 
yarn.  In  some  cases  cloth  has  been  re- 
jected for  this  purpose  alone,  and  mills 
have  overcome  this  result  by  using 
combed  yarn  in  place  of  carded  yarn 
where  black  or  very  dark  colors  are 
being  used.  This  same  situation  is 
noted  where  some  of  the  fast  colors 
to  stand  bleaching  are  observed. 
Where  the  colored  yarn  contains 
many  fibres  which  project,  they  show 
up  very  plainly  against  the  white 
threads  close  to  them,  and  unless  a 
high  quality  of  yarn  with  few  project- 
ing fibres  be  used,  some  patterns  will 
be  objectionable. 

FINISH   REQUIRED, 

After  these  goods  are  received  from 
the  looms  they  must  be  examined 
carefully,  and  all  spots  of  dirt  and 
grease  removed,  the  selvages  trimmed 
and  all  runners  (that  is,  filling  pulling 
in  at  the  sides)  and  also  bunches  and 
large  knots  must  be  taken  out. 

They  are  then  run  through  a 
starching  machine  and  given  a  me- 
dium  starching. 

They  are  then  run  through  a  calen- 
der, which  flattens  out  the  threads  and 
removes    all    wrinkles    and    gives   the 


474 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


cloth  a  much  smoother  surface,  be- 
sides giving  it  an  appearance  of  finer 
texture. 

After  measuring  and  rolling,  the 
pieces  are  put  in  a  hydraulic  press 
and  submitted  to  a  pressure  of  many 
tons'  weight.  They  are  then  labeled 
and  papered  and  are  ready  for  ship- 
ment. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machinery  required  to  make 
the  yarns  for  madras  ginghams  will  be 
found  in  mills  of  the  second  division 
althotigh  mills  of  the  third  division 
(as  given  in  a  previous  lesson)  also 
make  this  grade  of  yarn. 

THE  COUNT  OF  YARN 
which  we  will  consider  in  making  this 
class  of  goods  is  l-50s  and  3-50s  for 
the  warp  yarns  and  l-60s  for  the  fill- 
ing. This  stock  is  made  out  of  a  good 
grade  of  cotton,  the  staple  of  which  is 
about  11  to  1%  inches  in  length.  The 
cotton  is  brought  to  the  picker  room 
and  sampled  and  graded  by  the  over- 
seer in  charge  of  the  card  room,  al- 
though in  large  mills  when  a  cotton 
sampler  is  employed  he  also  is  pres- 
ent at  mixing  time. 

The  bales  of  cotton  are  sampled  and 
all  those  of  the  same  length  are  plac- 
ed together.  After  the  lot  is  sam- 
pled, a  few  (four  or  five)  bales  are 
placed  around  the  bale  breaker  and 
fed  to  this  machine,  a  small  lot  being 
taken  from  each  bale  alternately  un- 
til all  the  cotton  is  gone.  The  bagging 
which  comes  around  the  cotton  is  then 
placed  in  a  pile,  where  later  it  will  be 
picked  clean  ot  all  cotton  and  then  it 
is  placed  with  other  bagging,  which  is 
sold,  ihe  ties  which  bind  the  Eales 
are  also  sold. 

THE  BALE  BREAKER. 

The  draft  of  a  bale  breaker  is  quite 
large,  but  as  the  cotton  is  in  large 
lumps  it  only  acts  on  it  by  pulling  it 
apart  so  that  good  deal  of  the  draft 
is  lost.  The  production  of  a  bale 
breaker  is  from  80,000  to  90,000 
pounds  per  week. 

The  cotton  is  conveyed  by  endless 
lattices  from  the  bale  breaker  to  the 
bins;  sometimes  a  blower  and  trunks 
are  used  in  connection   with  the  lat- 


tices. Where  one  is  used  it  has  been 
found  that  the  cotton  is  in  better 
shape  to  work  and  does  not  have  to  be 
dried  out  so  long  in  the  bins.  Large 
mixings  should  always  be  used  for  the 
reasons    given   in   previous   articles. 

At  the  bins  the  sliver  waste  of  the 
same  length  and  grade  of  cotton  is 
mixed  into  the  raw  stock.  As  this  is 
generally  done  by  the  man  that  col- 
lects the  waste,  it  is  always  a  good 
plan  to  watch  him  to  see  that  he  puts 
the  waste  that  he  has  collected  in  its 
proper  bin.  The  raw  stock  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  put  through  a  porcu- 
pine opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING. 
Keep  the  hopper  of  the  opener  more 
than  half  full  of  raw  stock,  because 
by  so  doing  a  more  even  feed  will  be 
obtained  and  this  will  help  to  make 
an  even  yarn.  The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er of  the  opener  should  be  about  1,- 
050  revolutions  per  minute.  The  cot- 
ton is  passed  up  to  the  feed  rolls  of 
the  breaker  picker.  There  are  two  of 
these  rolls,  top  and  bottom,  and  they 
present  a  sheet  of  cotton  to  the  beat- 
er, which  is  generally  of  the  two- 
bladed  variety.  This  beater  has  a 
speed  of  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  fan  a  speed  of  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  end  of 
the  breaker  picker  is  about  40  pounds, 
or  what  is  called  a  16-ounce  lap, 
meaning  that  each  yard  of  lap  weighs 
16  ounces. 

The  laps  are  taken  from  the  breaker 
picker  and  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker,  the  doubling  (or  number  of 
laps  put  up)  being  4  into  1.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the  cut  roving,  of  the 
same  length  and  grade,  is  mixed  in,  it 
having  first  been  put  through  a  special 
process  which  takes  out  the  twist, 
and  also  a  picker,  which  forms  into  a 
lap.  The  proportion  of  cut  waste  used 
is  one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three  laps 
of  raw  stock.  The  beater  of  the  fin- 
isher picker  makes  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  the  finisher  picker 
is  about  35,  or  a  12  V^ -ounce  lap  for 
both  warp  and  filling  yarn. 
The  lap  is  put  up  at  the  card. 
The    draft    of    this    machine   for    this 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


475 


class  of  goods  should  not  be  less  than 
110;  the  wire  fillet  used  on  the  cylin- 
der should  be  No.  34  wire  or  No.  110 
English  count,  and  on  the  doffer  and 
top  flats  No.  35  or  No.  20  English 
count  wire  should  be  used.  The  cards 
should  be  ground  once  every  three 
weeks  and  stripped  (doffer  and  cylin- 
der) three  times  a  day.  The  cards 
should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  twice  a 
day  and  wiped  down   twice   more. 

The  speed  oi  the  cylinder  should  be 
165  revolutions  per  minute,  the  licker- 
in  speed  290  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  top  flats  should  make  one  revo- 
lution every  34  minutes.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  end  should  be 
65  grains,  and  the  production  600 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  Use  a 
larger  diameter  doffer,  either  26  or  27 
inches.  On  some  grades  of  madras 
ginghams  the  filling  yarn  is  combed, 
but  as  we  have  put  the  cotton  in  this 
article  through  what  is  called  fine 
carding  we  will  consider  that  both  the 
warp  and  filling  yarns  are  to  be  only 
carded.  The  sliver  is  taken  from  the 
card  and  put  through  three 

PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING  FRAMES. 

The  doublings  of  these  machines  are 
six  into  one.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  finisher  drawing  frame  is  70 
grains.  Look  out  to  see  that  the  top 
rolls  are  all  properly  varnished  and 
in  good  repair,  or  are  thoroughly 
cleaned  if  metallic  rolls  are  used;  see 
that  all  stop  motions  are  in  proper 
working  order  and  that  the  help  keep 
the  machine  running.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  put  through  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .50  hank  roving.  From  here 
it  is  put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames  and  made  into  10  hank  for  50s 
count  yarn  and  12  hank  for  60s  yarn. 
In  10-hank  roving  the  hanks  made  at 
the  different  processes  are  as  follows: 
2  at  first  intermediate,  4  hank  at  sec- 
ond intermediate  and  10  hank  at  the 
jack  frame.  For  12  hank  it  is  2  hank 
at  first  intermediate,  4  hank  at  second 
intermediate  and  12  hank  at  the  jack 
frame.  The  roving  for  warp  yam 
is  carried  to 

THE   RING   SPINNING   ROOM 
and   spun   into   50s   yarn   on    a   frame 
having   the   following   particulars:    2^ 


inches  gauge  of  frame;  diameter  of 
ring,  114  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6 
inches;  speed  of  spindle,  10,000  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  the  yarn  for  the  plain 
weave  is  then  warped  and  put  through 
a  slasher.  The  following  mixing  may 
be  used  for  heavy  counts:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  65  pounds;  tal- 
low, 6  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3 
pounds;  white  soap,  2  pounds;  boil 
13  hours.  The  50s  count  yarn  for 
cords  and  leno  whip  threads  after  be- 
ing spooled  is  twisted  into  3-ply  50s 
yarn  on  the  tw-ister  machine. 

The  12-hank  roving  for  filling  yarn 
may  either  be  ring  or  mule  spun.  If 
ring  spun,  use  a  frame  having  the 
following  particulars:  for  60s  gauge 
of  frame,  2|  inches:  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  5 
inches;  speed  of  spindle,  8,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

YELLOW. 
1   per   cent   tetrazo   chlorine   yellow 
GG.,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda;  after-treat  with  1^  per  cent 
bluestone,   1^   per  cent  chrome. 
LIGHT  ORANGE. 
1   per   cent   tetrazo  chlorine   orange 
R.,  30   per  cent  Glauber's,  2   per  cent 
sal  soda;   after-treat  with  i^  per  cent 
bluestone,  i/^  per  cent  chrome. 
OLD  ROSE. 
V2  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  rose,  25 
per    cent    Glauber's,    2  'per    cent    sal 
soda ;  after-treat  with  i/^  per  cent  blue- 
stone,  14  per  cent  chrome. 
LIGHT  OLIVE. 
4  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  N.,  4  per 
cent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's, 3  per  cent  soda  ash;  after-treat 
with  1  per  cent  bluestone,  1  per  cent 
chrome. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

4  per  cent  pyrogene  cutch  2G.,  4 
per  cent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  after - 
treat  with  1  per  cent  bluestone,  1  per 
cent  chrome. 

SKY  BLUE. 

V2  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF.. 
25   per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 


476 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


soda;  after-treat  with  i^  per  cent  sul- 
phate of  copper. 

LILAC. 
%  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G., 
25  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda;  after-treat:  V2  per  cent  sulphate 
of  copper. 

PEARL. 

4  ounces  diamine  dark  blue  B.,  4 
ounces  diamine  brilliant  blue  G.,  25 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda; 
after-treat:  i^  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

BUFF. 

2  ounces  diamine  catechine  3  G.,  2 
ounces  diamine  catechine  B.,  25  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda; 
after-treat:  %  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper,    1/^   per   cent   chrome. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
10  per  cent  katigen  yellow  brown 
GG.,  2  per  cent  katigen  brown  V.,  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent 
soda  ash,  30  per  cent  salt;  after-treat 
4  per  cent  bluestone,  4  per  cent 
chrome,  3  per  cent  acetic  acid. 

DARK  BROWN. 

5  per  cent  diamine  catechine  B.,  4 
per  cent  diamine  catchine  G.,  30  per 
cent  salt,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  after- 
treat:  3  per  cent  bluestone,  3  per  cent 
chrome. 

RED   BROWN. 

5  per  cent  diamine  brown  M.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda: 
after-treat:  2  per  cent  bluestone,  2 
per  cent  chrome. 

PINK. 
%  per  cent  benzo  fast  pink,  2  BL.,  20 
per    cent    Glauber's,    2    per    cent    sal 
soda. 

RED. 

6  per  cent  primuline,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  diazo- 
tize  and  develop  with  beta  naphthol. 

WINE. 

As  red.  Diazotize  and  develop  with 
Bordeaux  developer. 

SLATE. 
2  per  cent  diamine  jet  black  SS.,  30 
per    cent    Glauber's,    3    per    cent    sal 
soda,     after-treat    with    3    per    cent 
chrome. 


BLACK. 

6  per  cent  diamine  black  B.,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda; 
diazotize  and  develop  with  phenylene 
diamine. 

SULPHUR    BLACK. 

10  per  cent  immedial  black  V.,  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  after- 
treat:  3  per  cent  chrome,  3  per  cent 
bluestone,  3  per  cent  acetic  acid. 
LIGHT   GREEN. 

On  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant.   Dye:   1  per  cent  new  methylene 
blue  GG.,   1  per  cent  thioflavine  T. 
BLUE. 

On  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant. Dye:  2  per  cent  new  methylene 
blue  GG. 

INDIGO  BLUE. 

10  per  cent  immedial  indone  3  B., 
10  per  cent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  after- 
treat:    3  per  cent  sulphate  of  copper. 


ETAMINE 

An  etamine  is  a  thin,  slightly 
glossy  fabric  used  principally  for 
women's  dress  goods.  Being  a  very 
popular  material  for  summer  wear,  it 
is  usually  made  in  what  is  commonly 
known  as  a  piece-dyed  fabric,  that  is, 
woven  with  undyed  yarn.  A  good  rea- 
son for  making  it  a  piece-dyed  fabpc 
is  that  it  is  much  cheaper  than  if  the 
yarn  is  dyed  previous  to  the  weaving. 
Etamines  are  dyed  in  almost  any 
color.  Blue,  black,  red  and  various 
shades  of  drabs  seem  to  be  very  pop- 
ular. The  interlacing  of  the  warp  and 
weft  is  on  the  one  and  one  order,  or 
plain  weave.  See  design,  Fig.  1.  The 
openness  or  transparency  of  the  fabric 
is  due  partly  to  the  smooth,  hard- 
twisted  yarn  and  partly  to  the  weave. 

Etamines  were  originally  made  with 
worsted  yarns,  which,  of  course,  are 
much  more  expensive;  however,  if  a 
good  quality  o*  cotton  is  used  there  is 
little  difference  in  appearance  between 
worsted  and  cotton  etamines.  The  dif- 
ference would  be  chiefly  in  the  wear- 
ing quality,  worsted,  of  course,  being 
more  durable. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


477 


One  of  the  differences  between  a 
worsted  and  a  cotton  etamine  is  not- 
ed when  the  fabrics  are  worn.  A 
worsted  fabric  do§s  not  crease  very 
readily,  and  whenever  it  is  noted  the 
crease  will  soon  disappear,  whereas  a 
cotton  fabric,  i^"  creased,  will  be  likely 
to  hold  the  creases  for  quite  a  long 
time,  thus  making  the  garment  some- 
what  objectionable. 

The  principal  feature  of  an  etamine 
is  to  have  it  a  crisp,  glossy  and 
open  fabric. 

ANALYSIS  OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  27 1^  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  26  inches. 
Reed,  500 — 2  ends  per  dent. 

Total  ends  in  warp  740,  including 
selvage.  Take-up  of  warp  during 
weaving,  12  per  cent.  Weight  of  fa- 
bric from  loom,  3  ounces  per  yard; 
weight  of  fabric,  finished,  3  ounces  per 
yard. 

No  shrinkage  during  the  finishing 
process. 

WARPING  PLAN. 

1-lOs    carded    peeler    cotton,    hard 
twist,  20  turns   per  inch,  a  left-hand 
twist 
-      ■-'  FILLING  PLAN. 

28  picks  per  inch  finished;  28  picks 
per  inch  in  loom;  1-lOs  carded  peeler 
cotton,  hard  twist,  15  turns  per  inch, 
a  left-hand  twist. 

Notice  that  warp  and  weft  are  both 
the  same  twist,  that  is,  both  are  a  left 
twist.  This  is  an  important  factor 
which  cannot  be  ignored  in  making  an 
open  or  transparent  fabric. 

The  warp  is  drawn  in  straight,  that 
is,  1,  2,  3,  4  (see  Fig.  2),  until  all  the 
harnesses  are  used;  four  harnesses 
would  be  quite  enough  for  a  fabric  of 
.  this  character;  there  being  but  26  ends 
per  inch,  would  cause  no  overcrowding 
of  heddles.  Fig.  3  is  the  reeding  plan. 
Fig.  4  shows  the  chain  draft  for  a  dob- 
by  loom. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

This  character  of  fabric  could  be 
woven  on  any  cam  or  dobby  loom,  a 
cam  loom  being  preferable,  princi- 
pally on  account  of  the  comparatively 
low  rate  of  expense  the  latter  could  be 
operated   at. 


Etamines,  as  before  mentioned,  are 
usually  woven  with  undyed  yarns,  or 
in  the  gray.  The  cloth,  after  reaching 
the  dyehouse,  is  first  subjected  to  a 
scouring  process,  then  dyed,  after 
which  it  is  given  a  medium  sizing, 
then  it  is  calendered,  which  in  a  great 
measure  accentuates  the  gloss  upon 
the  fabric  and  also  imparts  to  it  the 
crisp  feeling  which  characterizes  an 
etamine. 

It  is  then  measured,  rolled  and 
papered,  after  which  it  is  ready  for 
the  merchant.  Cotton  etamine  sells 
from  12  cents  to  20  cents  per  yard. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  cloth  of  which  the  weaving  par- 
ticulars have  been  given  is  some- 
times made  of  all-cotton  yarn  or  a 
combination  of  cotton  and  wool  or  cot- 
ton and  linen,  or  a  combination  of 
wool,  silk,  linen  and  cotton  fibres.  For 
the  carding  and  spinning  particulars 
of  this  lesson  we  will  consider  that 
the  fabric  is  made  up  of  cotton  yarns 
in  both  the  warp  and  filling. 

The  count  of  the  yarn  we  will  con- 
sider to  be  10s. 

THE  YARNS 
for  this  class  of  cloth  may  be  made 
in  either  the  first  or  second  division 


Fie.  3. 

Cb*lD  Dnit 

oaoa 

■oaa 
oaoa 

gsss 

moma 

DBOB 

mama 
Fig.  4. 


^joao 
lamam 

_  _    _ loaa 
amamcmam 


■oaoapao 
OBoiaiDa 

Fig.  1. 


DODaoBoa 

QDBCDaOBa 
DBDDaBDa 

aaaaaoaa 
Fig.  2. 


of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
Generally,  however,  the  mill  of  the  sec- 
ond division  is  used.  The  cotton  used 
would  be  American  of  about  1  1-16 
inches  length  of  staple.  A  number 
of  bales  (enough  for  a  mixing)  should 
be  brought  from  the  cotton  shed  and 
placed  in  the  picker  room.  The  over- 
seer should  sample  each  of  the  bales 
and  those  not  up  to  staple  should  be 
placed   to   one   side.     Several  of  the 


478 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ether  bales  should  be  placed  around 
the  bale  breaker  and  a  little  fed  to 
the  breaker  from  each  bale  alternately. 
'ihis  will  help  to  produce  a 

MORE  EVEN  MIXING, 

which  will  help  to  give  a  more  evenly 
finished  yarn.  The  bales  that  have 
been  laid  aside  should  either  be  used 
in  a  cheaper  mixture  or  should  be 
shown  to  the  cotton  broker  and  either 
returned  or  have  an  allowance  made 
for  them.  The  bale  breaker  should  be 
kept  on  this  cotton  until  it  is  all  put 
through.  The  cotton  is  conveyed  from 
the  bale  breaker  to  the  mixing  bin  by 
endless  lattices,  which  is  the  old 
method,  or  by  having  a  blower  and 
trunking  and  an  endless  lattice  as  is 
the  newer  and  more  modern  method. 
When  a  blower  is  used  in  conjunc- 
tion with  the  bale  breaker  the  cotton 
is  in  a  more  dried  out  condition  when 
it  reaches  the  bin,  and  consequently 
it  does  not  have  to  stand  as  long  to 
dry  out  before  using.  A  blower  will 
pay  for  its  first  cost  many  times  ovei. 
At  the  mixing  bin  thre  good  waste  from 
all  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mix- 
ed in  as  it  is  collected.  The  cotton 
is  next  fed  to  the  opener  and 

WHEN  A   BLOWER  IS   USED, 

passed  through  two  processes  of  pick- 
ing when  the  cotton  is  mixed  by 
hand.  Three  proceses  of  picking  are 
generally  used.  A  three-process  pick 
ing  and  an  opener  are  given,  but  when 
two  processes  are  used  all  that  is 
necessary  to  do  is  to  drop  the  second 
or  intermediate  process  and  use  the 
particulars  of  the  breaker  and  finish- 
er picker.  A  porcupine  beater  is  gen- 
erally used  in  connection  with  the 
opener,  and  this  has  a  speed  of  about 
975  revolutions  per  minute. 

The  cotton  j)asses  from  the  opener 
to  the  breaker  picker  and  after  pass- 
ing the  feed  rolls  it  comes  in  contact 
with  the  beater,  which  is  generally  of 
a  rigid  two-bladed  type,  the  speed  of 
of  which  is  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute.     The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAPS 
at  the  front  of  the  breaker  picker  is 
about  40  pounds  or  a     16-ounce   lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled  four  into  one 


at  the  intermediate  picker,  the  beater 
of  this  picker  making  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute  and  the  total  weight 
of  the  lap  being  37 'pounds  or  about  a 
12-ounce  lap.  The  doublings  at  the 
finisher  picker  are  four  into  one,  the 
speed  of  the  beater  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  which  gives  the  cotton 
passing  through  it  42  beats  per  minute. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  cut  roving 
of  American  stock  of  the  same  length 
is  mixed  in,  in  the  proportion  of  one 
lap  of  roving  waste  to  three  laps  of 
good  cotton.  The  total  weight  of  the 
cotton  lap  at  the  front  for  this  class 
of  goods  is  35  pounds  or  a  12  V^ -ounce 
lap.  The  next  machine  through  which 
the  cotton  passes  is 

THE  CARD. 

This  machine  for  this  class  of  goods 
has  a  draft  of  about  90.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  should  be  ground  at  least  once  a 
month.  The  flats  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  35  minutes.  The  pro- 
duction should  be  about  750  pounda 
for  a  week  of  60  hours.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be  about 
65  grains.  Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  pos- 
sible, either  of  a  26  or  27  inch  dia- 
m.eter.  The  carded  sliver  is  then  put 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  each  pro- 
cess being  as  follows:  77  grains  at 
breaker  drawing,  76  grains  at  inter- 
mediate and  72  grains  at  finisher 
drawing,  the  doubling  at  each  process 
being  six  into  one.  On  this  class  of 
goods  metallic  top  rolls  may  be  used 
to  good  advantage.  The  sliver  is  next 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  into 
.50  hank  roving.  The  settings  of  the 
rolls  at  the  slubber  for  this  length  of 
staple  should  be  as  follows:  Front 
roll  to  middle,  1^4  inches;  middle  roll 
to  back,  1%  inches.  The  cotton  is 
then  passed  through 

ONE  PROCESS  OF  FLY  FRAMES 
and  made  into  two  hank  roving.  The 
roving  for  warp  yarn  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  and  made  into  10s  yarn. 
The  following  particulars  are  used  on 
the  warp  frame:  Gauge  of  spindle,  3 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  2  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  7  inches;  speed  of 
spindles,  8,600  revolutions  per  minute. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


479 


The  roving  for  the  filling  yarn  may  be 
either  mule  spun  or,  as  is  generally 
the  case,  ring  spun. 

When  ring  spun,  use  the  following 
particulars  for  filling  frame  spinning: 
10s  yarn,  gauge  of  spindle,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  7  inches  (because  the  filling 
yarn  for  this  fabric  has  sufficient  twist 
put  in  to  stand  this  length  of  traverse), 
speed  of  spindles,  6,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  run  through  a 
slasher. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  fabric  is  dyed  on  the  jig  ma- 
chine. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N,,  15 

per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent 

soda  ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 

rinse  well,  and  give  a  soap  bath. 

BLUE. 

5  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.,  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash,  25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  rinse 
and  top  with  8  ounces  methylene  blue 
B.,  1  pint  acetic  acid. 

BROWN. 

6  per  cent  immedial  brown  B.,  4  per 
cent  immedial  yellow  D.,  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  rinse  and 
give  a  soap  bath. 

GREEN. 
4  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D.,  3  per 
cent  immedial  indone  B.,  7  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  rinse  and 
give  a  soap  bath. 

♦-•-» 


BATISTE 


Batiste,  as  the  name  implies,  is  of 
French  origin,  commercially  undeir- 
stood  to  mean  a  light  translucent 
cloth,  made  from  a  fine  quality  of 
combed  cotton  yarn,  ranging  in  width 
from  32  inches  to  45  inches. 

There  is  likewise  a  gradual  variation 
in  qualities,  ranging  from  a  compara- 
tively coarse  to  a  very  fine  fabric. 

The  variations  of  the  different  qual- 


ities will  be  more  apparent  when  we 
consider  their  commercial  value.  It 
may  be  of  interest  to  our  readers  to 
note  the  retail  prices. 

Cotton  batiste  retails  at  from  12 1^ 
cents  in  32-inch  widths  to  50  cents  in 
45-inch  width  per  yard. 

The  variety  of  qualities  will  suggest 
some  idea  of  the  utility  of  the  fabric. 
Its  uses  are  even  more  varied  than  are 
the  qualities. 

The  finer  grades  of  batiste  are  used 
for  dress  goods,  all  kinds  of  lingerie 
for  summer  wear,  pillow  shams,  etc., 
while  the  cheaper  grades  are  exten- 
sively used  for  linings  in  washable 
and  unwashable  shirtwaists. 

In  this  article  we  are  confining  our- 
selves to  bleached  cotton  batiste,  re- 
serving the  linen  and  colored  for  seme 
future  discussion. 

Batiste  is  woven  in  the  gray,  that  Is, 
with  yam  direct  from  the  spinning 
frame,  with  the  exception  that  the 
warp  yarn  is  well  sized,  in  order  to 
better  stand  the  strain  to  which  the 
yarn  Is  subjected  during  the  weaving 
process. 

We  will  consider,  first,  a  very  fine 
bleached  cotton  batiste,  of  a  quality 
made  45  inches  in  width,  and  then  a 
very  cheap  grade  of  bleached  cotton 
batiste,  made  32  inches  in  width. 

The  analysis  will  readily  show  the 
vast  difference  in  these  two  qualities. 

FINE  BLEACHED  COTTON  BATISTE 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  47.8  inches; 
finish  at  45  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
the  cloth  from  loom,  94;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  100;   ends  in  warp,  4,500. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  10 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
from  loom,  1.15  ounces;  finished 
weight,  1.4  ounces. 

The  difference  in  weight  between 
fabric  from  loom  and  finished  fabric 
is  about  20  per  cent,  the  finished  goods 
having  taken  on  20  per  cent  of  sizing 
material. 

For  adding  weight  to  cloth,  China 
clay  is  used.  The  proportions  to  use 
depend  on  the  character  of  finish  de- 
sired. China  clay  produces  a  gritty 
feel,  which,  however,  may  be  overcome 
by  the  use  of  chloride  of  magnesium 
which  is  a  very  powerful  softner  a? 
well  as  a  weighting  material. 


480 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Warping  plan:  body  of  warp,  l-120s 
combed  Sea  Island  cotton,  selvage  2- 
100s  cotton. 

Filling    plan:    98    picks    of      l-200s 
combed  Sea  Island  cotton. 
CHEAP-GRADE   COTTON    BATISTE. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  34  inches. 
Finish  at  32  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
cloth  in  the  loom,  54;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  58;  ends  in  warp,  1,860;  54x1 
reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
from  loom,  .84  ounce;  finished  weight 
per  yard,  1  ounce;  19  per  cent  increase 
in  weight. 

Warping  plan:  all  l-60s  combed  Sea 
Island  cotton. 

Filling:  50  picks  per  inch  1-lOOs 
combed  Sea  Island  cotton. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

There  is  a  wide  divergence  of  opin- 
ion in  regard  to  the  use  of  automatic 
loom  for  fine  yarn  fabrics,  though  it 
is  undoubtedly  true  that  most  of  the 
important  manufacturers  do  not  con- 
sider them  of  any  especial  value.  This 
is  shown  in  the  fact  that  practically 
none  of  such  looms  are  used  where 
the  warp  is  finer  than  70-1.  In  order 
to  make  an  automatic  loom  success- 
ful it  must  be  kept  in  operation  and 
the  fineness  of  the  yarn  is  against 
such  a  result.  Then,  the  weight  of 
the  heddles  upon  the  yarn  has  a  ten- 
dency to  cause  breakages  much  more 
than  when  such  a  loom  is  used  for 
coarser  fabrics.  It  is  true  that  for 
fine  plain  cloths  it  is  possible  to  oper- 
ate more  looms  per  weaver  than  for 
the  coarser  materials,  partly  because 
the  filling  lasts  a  much  longer  time. 
The  decided  loss  in  production  on  an 
automatic  loom  when  fine  yarns  are 
used  brings  down  the  number  of  looms 
which  can  be  operated  and  there  is  a 
much  smaller  difference  between  the 
number  of  looms  per  weaver  on  fine 
than  for  coarse  fabrics.  Another  thing 
which  is  noted  is  that  a  light  non- 
automatic  loom  can  be  operated  at 
a  higher  speed  than  an  automatic 
loom  and  will  produce  as  high  or  a 
higher  percentage  of  production  so 
that  the  yards  of  cloth  produced  per 
weaver  is  not  much  greater  with  auto- 
matic looms  than  with  the  non-auto- 


matic. It  must  also  be  remembered 
that  the  price  of  the  automatic  loom 
is  much  higher  than  the  nonautomatic 
and  taken  all  together  it  is  not  prob- 
able that  the  automatic  loom  will  ever 
be  used  extensively  for  100-1  yarn  or 
finer  in  its  present  condition.  In  fact, 
a  good  many  consider  its  value  is 
questionable  for  any  fabric  contain- 
ing single  yarn  finer  than  60-1.  The 
fabric  is  a  plain  weave,  no  dobby  be- 
ing required.  The  fineness  of  the  yarn, 
however,  requires  the  use  of  string 
heddles.  Wire  heddles  would  cause 
too  many  warp  breakages.  The  warp 
should  be  drawn  in  on  four  harnesses, 
skip  draw  as  follows:  1,  3,  2,  4  instead 
of  straight,  as  1,  2,  3,  4.  Skip  draws 
give  less  strain  to  the  warp. 
FINISH. 
Batistes  are  given  a  Swiss  finish; 
after  the  cloth  comes  from  the  loom  it 
is  bleached.  After  the  bleaching  proc- 
ess it  is  sized,  then  sprinkled  or  damp- 
ened, and  then  calendered,  after  which 
it  is  folded;  then  it  is  ready  for  the 
market. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  division  of  mills  which  make 
"batiste"  is  the  third  of  those  mills 
which  are  equipped  with  machinery 
for  making  fine  count  yarns.  Batiste 
is  made  up  of  extra  fine  counts  of 
yarn,  although  these  counts  vary  a 
great  deal  according  to  the  grade  of 
fabric  wanted.  In  order  to  do  this 
cloth  justice  it  will  be  better  to  first 
describe  the  processes  of  a  coarse 
yarn  batiste  and  then  a  batiste  made 
up  of-  fine  yarns.  We  will  consider 
the  coarse  fabric  to  be  made  up  of 
l-60s  warp  yarn  and  _l-100s  filling 
yam.  The  finer  grade  we  will  con- 
sider made  up  of  l-120s  warp  yam  and 
l-200s   filling  yarn. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 
used  for  both  grades  should  be: 
American  cotton  of  If  inch  staple  for 
the  fabric  which  contains  60-1  warp 
and  100-1  filling  and  Sea  Island  cotton 
of  about  1%  inch  staple  for  the  fabric 
which  contains  120-1  warp  and  200-1 
filling. 

The  selection  of  the  cotton  is  one  of 
the  first  and  by  many  considered  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


481 


Host  important  points  to  look  out  for. 
The  lot  should  be  sampled  bale  by 
■jale  and  all  those  bales  having  a 
staple  not  up  to  standard  should  be 
thrown  out  of  the  mixing.  Those  bales 
chat  are  selected  as  O.  K.  should  be 
placed  around  the  mixing  bin  and 
;hrown  into  it  alternately  from  each 
bale  until  all  the  bales  for  the  mixing 
ire  in.    At  this  point  the 

GOOD  SLIVER  AND  PICKER  WASTE 

are  mixed  in.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  sliver  waste  is  pulled 
apart  into  short  lengths  and  that  no 
other  waste  is  thrown  into  the  bins  by 
mistake,  because  a  small  lot  of  short 
staple  waste  can  cause  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  later  on.  Some  overseers 
use  only  an  opener  and  one  process 
of  picking,  others  use  two  processes 
of  picking  with  the  opener.  It  is  the 
general  custom  to  use  only  an  opener 
and  one  process  of  picking  for  these 
fine  counts.  The  general  instructions 
that  have  been  given  in  regard  to 
openers  should  be  followed.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  (rigid  type)  should  be 
reduced  so  that  the  cotton  should  only 
receive  29  beats  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  end  of 
the  picker  (when  one  picker  is  used) 
should  not  exceed  30  pounds  and  from 
this  range  to  25  pounds. 

A  GOOD  WEIGHT 
per  yard  for  the  grade  of  fabric  under 
description  is  9  ounces.  The  machines 
should  be  carefully  looked  into  to  see 
that  they  are  all  kept  clean  and  prop- 
erly set.  The  laps  are  taken  to  the 
cards.  At  this  point,  as  at  a  great 
many  others,  overseers  differ  as  to  the 
best  means  of  procedure.  Some  use 
a  large  draft  at  the  card  and  only  one 
process  of  combing,  and  others  use 
lower  drafts  and  two  processes  of 
combing.  In  this  lesson  we  will 
assume  a  large  card  draft  and  one 
process  of  combing  for  all  counts  of 
yarn  in  both  grades  of  batiste.  The 
speed  of  the  licker  should  Te  reduced 
from  about  350  revolutions  per  minute 
to  275  or  280  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  is  done  by  lagging  the  licker- 
in  pulley.  The  wire  fillet  used  on  the 
cylinder  should  be  No.  34  wire  (Ameri- 
can count,  or  110s  English  count),  and 


on  the  doffer  and  top  flats  No.  36  wire, 
or  130s  English  count. 

THE  FLATS 

should  be  speeded  up  to  take  out  as 
much  waste  as  possible.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  ground  so  as  to  keep  the  wire 
sharp.  The  settings  used  should  be 
very  close  and  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  cotton  is  not  broken  in 
staple  at  the  card.  A  great  many 
times,  if  the  cotton  is  sampled  at  the 
front  of  the  card,  it  will  be  found  to  be 
shorter  than  when  entering.  This 
may  be  and  is  generally  caused  by  an 
improper  setting  of  the  feed  plate  to 
the  licker-in.  While  this  applies  di- 
rectly to  long  staple  cotton,  still  all 
cottons  should  be  looked  into  carefully 
to  avoid  shortening  the  length  of  the 
staple.  It  is  very  important  to  keep 
the  cards  clean  so  that  as  little  dust 
and  dirt  will  go  into  the  sliver  as 
possible,  because,  if  this  dirt  gets 
past  the  combers,  it  will  show  up  in 
the  cloth,  as  the  thread  or  yarn  is  so 
small.     The 

PRODUCTION  FOR  A  CARD 
making  this  class  of  goods  should  not 
exceed  275  pounds  per  week,  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  being  about  30  to 
35  grains  per  yard.  The  draft  for  this 
class  of  goods  should  not  be  less  than 
150.  The  card  sliver  is  taken  to  the 
comber  room  and  doubled  14  into  1  at 
the  sliver  lap,  and  the  laps  from  this 
machine  are  taken  to  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  and  doubled  5  into  1.  The 
weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  of 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  should  be 
about  163  grains.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  comber  and  doubled  6  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  comber  for  this  stock 
should  not  exceed  80  nips  per  min- 
ute. For  this  weight  of  web  a  double 
row  of  teeth  in  the  top  comb  would 
give 

THE  BEST  RESULTS. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  all 
needles  in  the  top  are  straight  and 
that  the  comber  is  absolutely  free 
from  dirt  at  all  times.  The  table  of 
the  comber  should  be  gone  over  twice 
a  day  with  whitening  so  that  the  sliv- 
er being  drawn  ove"  it  will  not  stick. 
The    percentage   of   waste   taken    ou| 


482 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


should  be  about  25.  These  processes 
will  auswer  for  all  the  counts  except 
for  the  200s,  which  should  be  double 
combed,  i.  e.,  after  being  put  through 
the  combers  once  should  be  run 
through  the  sliver  lap  machine  and 
then  through  the  combers  again.  After 
passing  through  the  combers  the  sliv- 
er passes  through  two  processes  of 
drawing.  At  these  machines  the  sliv- 
er is  doubled  six  Into  one,  the  speed 
of  the  front  rolls  at  each  frame  being 
320  revolutions  per  minute.  Be  sure 
the  settings  are  proper  for  the  staple 
so  as  not  to  "break"  the  staple,  or  too 
far  apart  so  that  uneven  drawing  will 
result. 

THE   TOP   ROLLS 

should  be  of  a  little  larger  diameter 
than  for  shorter  length  of  staple;  the 
grade  of  skin  used  for  the  top  rolls 
should  be  finer  than  that  used  for  the 
shorter  and  lower  grades  of  cotton. 
Not  only  is  this  true  in  regard  to  the 
drawing  frames,  but  also  on  all  ma- 
chines on  which  leather  top  rolls  are 
used.  Always  keep  these  rolls  in  the 
best  of  shape  and  clean  machines 
more  often  than  with  the  lower  grades 
of  raw  stock.  The  weight  of  sliver  at 
the  front  is  60  grains  per  yard.  The 
drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber, which  makes  it  into  .80  hank. 
This  machine  also  uses  a  larger  diam- 
eter top  roll  than  is  used  on  the  lower 
grades.  The  slubber  roving  for  60s 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at  the  1st 
intermediate  being  2.25;  at  the  second, 
5  hank,  and  at  the  fine  frames  12  hank. 
From  here  it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spin- 
ning room  and  made  into  60s  warp 
yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1  5-16 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  5  inches. 

TO  MAKE  100s  YARN 
the  slubber  roving  is  the  same,  also 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  and  se- 
cond intermediates.  The  hank  roving 
at  the  fine  frame  is  20.  This  yarn  for 
filling  is  taken  to  the  mule  spinning 
room;  for  warp  yarn  used  in  the  finer 
grade  of  batiste  is  sometimes  spun  in 
the  mule  room  and  sometimes  in  the 
ring  spinning  room.  When  spun  on 
the    ring    frame,    use    the     following 


particulars  for  a  warp  frame:  Gauge 
of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
11/4  inches;  length  of  traverse,  5  in- 
ches. For  making  200s  yarn  the  final 
yarn  is  spun  single  at  the  mule;  if 
spun  double,  the  frames  and  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  would  be  as  follows:  Slub- 
ber, .80;  first  intermediate,  2.25;  se- 
cond intermediate,  5;  roving,  20,  and 
jack  30  hank.  This  would  be  taken 
to  the  mule  room  and  spun  into  200s 
yarn.  The  warp  yarn  for  both  grades 
of  fabric  would  be  spooled  and  warp- 
ed and  run  through  a  slasher. 

A  GOOD  MIXING 
for  60s  yarn  is  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  54  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds;  soap,  lYz 
pounds.  A  good  sizing  mixture  for 
the  100s  would  be  as  follows:  Water, 
100  gallons;  potato  starch,  70  pounds; 
tallow,  7  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3 
pounds;  soap,  2  pounds.  Boil  two 
hours  and  let  stand  10  hours  before 
using;  keep  agitator  running  and  keep 
size  almost  at  boiling  point.  For  sel- 
vage, the  100s  yarn  would  have  to  be 
doubled  into  2-ply  100s  in  addition  to 
the  other  processes. 


Bleaching,    Dyeing    and    Finishing. 

These  goods  are  bleached  in  the  or- 
dinary way,  great  care  being  taken  to 
keep  the  goods  from  damage. 

The  pieces  are  boiled  in  caustic  soda 
at  4  degrees  Tw.  for  ten  hours,  rinsed 
well  in  water,  and  boiled  again  with 
4  degrees  Tw.  caustic  soda,  rinsed, 
and  scoured  with  V4.  degree  Tw.  of  oil 
of  vitriol,  rinsed  and  passed  through  a 
solution  of  chloride  of  lime  at  i^  de- 
gree Tw.  scoured  with  V2  degree  Tw. 
oil  of  vitriol,  and  well  rinsed,  until 
all  acid  is  washed  out. 

The  goods  are  then  dried,  and 
starched  through  a  mangle  with  8-12 
ounces  best  white  German  dextrine  to 
one  gallon  of  water,  starch  to  be  well 
boiled  one  hour  before  using. 

The   pieces   are    dried   on    a   tenter 
frame  at  full  width,  care  being  taken 
to  keep  tiie  warp  and  filling  straight. 
COLORS. 

If  colors  are  required  they  are  light 
blues,  pinks  and  other  light  tints  dyed 
in  the  mangle  or  on  the  jig. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


483 


LIGHT   PINK. 

For  10  50-yard  pieces,  12  gallons 
water;  Vz  ounce  to  2  ounces  Erika 
pink;  20  pounds  Glauber's;  3  pounds 
sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

Dye  as  pink  with  Vz  to  1  ounce  tetra- 
zo  brilliant  blue  6B. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 

2  ounces  diamine  black  BH.,  dye  as 
pink. 

RED. 

1-2  pound  benzo  fast  red  4B.,  dye 
as   pink. 

YELLOW. 

Dye  as  pink.  8  ounces  chrysophe- 
nine. 

ORANGE. 

Dye  as  pink.  1  pound  Mikado  orange 
B. 

SCARLET. 

Dye  as  pink.  1  pound  diamine  scar- 
let B. 

LIGHT  WINE. 

Dye  as  pink.  1  pound  diamine  Bor- 
deaux B. 

LIGHT  AMBER  BROWN. 

4  ounces  diamine  catechine  G.;  4 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B.,  dye  as 
pink. 

TOBACCO   BROWN. 

h  pound  diamine  brow-n  B.;  2  ounces 
diamine  fast  yellow  B.,  dye  as  pink. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

Dye  as  pink.  4  ounces  diamine 
bronze  G. ;  2  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

Dye  as  pink.  10  ounces  diamine 
green  G. ;  5  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.  Top  with  fresh  bath;  6  ounces 
brilliant  green  G. 

BLACK. 

Dye  on  jig.  15  per  cent  immedial 
black  NN. ;  15  per  cent  sulphide  soda; 
3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 


ITALIAN  CLOTH 

Italian  cloth  is  a  light,  glossy  fab- 
ric made  from  cotton  and  worsted,  cot- 
ton and  wool,  cotton  and  mohair  and 
all  cotton. 

We  will  here  consider  the  all-cotton 
fabric.    Italian  cloth  is  very  common- 
ly understood  to  mean  a  satin  fabric, 
by  some  known  as  Farmer's  satin. 
ITS  CHIEF  USE. 

It  is  used  chiefly  for  linings  for  the 
heavier  styles  of  ladies'  dresses,  also 
for  underskirts,  or  for  the  garment  it- 
self, instead  of  merely  as  a  lining; 
when  used  for  such,  it  is   usually  in 

DDUBaannannncBG 

□DQnBDDDDHnDDDB 

□DBcnanBCDaDBDa 

■aCDDBDDDaBDDaa 

DnDHnDaDBnD_  ama 

UBaDDDHDnDDBCDD 

CDaDBaancHDDCDB 

DDBDDDaHnDDDBna 

■□aDDHDancBDuan 
DncBnaGDHDDDnBn 

DBDaDDBDDDnBDCG 
naDDBDDDDBCnDDB 
CDBDDnDBnaDDBDa 
■DCDDBDDDDBDDDG 

Fig.  1. 


□naanDanGBGDnGaaaDGB 
GaaaaaDnBaDnnaanDGBG 
DnaaanaBnanDDDDDDBaa 
aGDaDDBDnDanQnanBDnn 
□aDDGBaaDDaaQDDBaaaa 
DDDGBaDaaaoDoaBaanDG 
DGanGDaaaaaaaBGaaGDa 
caBaaaDGaaaaBGGGDaaa 
DBGaGaaoaGGBaaaGDaan 
■GGGaGaaGGBaaaaGDaGa 

Fig-.  2. 


Fig.  3. 

solid  black.  It  is  also  used  for  shirt- 
waistings,  fancy  pillow  backs  and  so 
forth,  for  these  purposes  usually  in 
fancy  colors. 

The  cloth  is  woven  "in  the  gray" 
— undyed  yarns.  In  the  finer  grades 
the  warp  is  sized  so  as  to  facilitate 
the  weaving  process.  The  fabric  under 
consideration  is  a  five-harness  satin 
weave.  The  satin  weave,  technically 
called  "satin,"  is  one  of  the  three 
foundation  weaves.  The  object  of  a 
satin  weave  is  to  get  a  smooth-face 
fabric. 

In  plain  twill  weaves  every  pick  in- 
terlaces with  the  warp  in  the  same 
manner,  but  each  successive  pick  com- 
mences as  if  it  were  one  end  farther  to 
the  right  or  left,  according  to  the  di- 


484 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


rection  of  the  twill.   This  will  bind  the 
cloth  in  a  regular  order. 
In  satin  weaves 

THE  INTERLACING 

is  arranged  differently;  the  intersec- 
tions of  warp  and  weft  are  distributed 
as  evenly  as  possible  over  the  surface 
of  the  fabric. 

The  smallest  and  most  common 
form'  of  satin  is  the  five-harness 
satin.  The  order  of  intersections  is  1, 
3,  5,  2,  4.     (See  Fig.  1.) 

ANALYSIS    OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches; 
width  of  fabric,  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  96;  ends  per 
inch,  finished,  102;  ends  in  warp,  3,- 
700;  32  dent  reed  per  inch — 3  ends 
per  dent.  Take-up  of  warp  during 
weaving  is  5  per  cent;  weight  of  fab- 
ric per  yard,  from  loom,  is  four 
ounces. 

Owing  to  the  pressure  the  fabric  is. 
subjected  to  in  the  finishing,  it 
stretches  slightly  in  length;  conse- 
quently the  cloth  should  be  lighter  per 
yard,  finished,  than  the  cloth  from 
the  loom.  The  difference,  however,  is 
made  up  by  the  sizing  materials,  al- 
though it  is  given  but  a  very  light  siz- 
ing. 

The  cloth  per  yard  finished  is  prac- 
tically of  the  same  weight  as  the  cloth 
per  yard  from  loom. 

Warp:  All  l-40s  cotton,  left  twist. 

Filling:   All  l-45s  cotton,  left  twist. 

130  picks  per  inch. 

Fig.  1  shows  three  repeats  of  the 
design;  the  weave  as  mentioned  above 
is  a  five-harness  satin,  weft  face,  with 
the  direction  of  the  twill  running  to 
the   right. 

The  fabric  in  question  has  a  very 
smooth  face,  which  is  due  in  a  great 
measure  to  the  direction  of  the  twill 
being  opposite  to  the  direction  of  twist 
of  yarn. 

Fig.  2  shows  drawing-in  draft.  The 
warp  is  drawn  on  ten  harnesses, 
straight  draw — five  harnesses  would 
be  enough;  ten  harnesses  are  used  so 
as  not  to  overcrowd  the  heddles. 

Fig.  3  shows  reeding  plan. 

The  warp  is  reeded  3  ends  in  one 
dent. 


This  character  of  fabric  could  be 
woven  on  any  loom  where  ten  har- 
nesses could  be  operated  without  dif- 
ficulty. The  loom  should  have  a  fair- 
ly high  running  speed. 
FINISH. 

This  fabric,  as  before  mentioned,  is 
woven  with  undyed  yarns.  After  it 
comes  from  the  loom  it  is  boiled  off, 
bleached,  then  dyed,  after  which  it  is 
subjected  to  a  light  sizing.  For  a 
light  sizing  it  is  not  necessary  to  use 
anything  but  wheat  flour,  farina  and  a 
small  quantity  of  softening  material, 
usually  tallow  or  wax. 

After  the  cloth  is  sized  it  is  run 
through  the  calender  with  the  rolls 
well  heated,  the  glossy  face  of  the  fab- 
ric being  obtained  by  the  heated  rolls. 
The  cloth,  after  the  calendering,  is 
folded,  after  which  it  is  ready  for  the 
market. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Italian  cloth  is  made  in  mills  of  the 
second  division,  as  given  in  a  previ- 
ous lesson.  The  class  of  cloth  may  be 
made  up  of  several  grades  and  lengths 
of  raw  stock,  but  for  this  article  we 
will  consider  that  the  cotton  is  of  a 
fair  grade,  the  staple  being  about  1% 
inches  in  length.  The  cotton  is  all 
sampled  before  being  put  through  this 
bale  breaker,  several  bales  being  plac- 
ed around  this  machine,  the  cotton  be- 
ing fed  alternately  from  each  bale  un- 
til all  the  cotton  is  gone.  The  bagging 
which  covers  these  bales  is  thrown 
into  a  pile  and  is  again  picked  over  in 
order  to  clean  all  the  fibre  from  the 
bagging.  This  is  generally  done  by  the 
yard  hands  on  rainy  days. 

THE  BEST  METHOD 
of  conveying  the  cotton  to  the  mixing 
bins  is  by  a  blower  and  endless  lat- 
tices. When  a  blower  is  used,  the  cot- 
ton arrives  at  the  mixing  bins  in  a 
more  open  state  and  works  up  much 
better.  At  the  mixing  bin  the  good 
waste  cotton  from  all  the  machines  up 
to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in.  The  cot- 
ton is  fed  to  the  hopper  of  the  open- 
er which  should  always  be  kept  half 
full  and  from  here  is  passed  on  to  the 
feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker.  For 
this  class  of  goods  some  overseers  use 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


485 


>^o  and  some  use  three  processes  of 
,»icklng.    It  is  the  general  plan  of  up- 

o-date  mills  to  use  two  processes 
*ith  an  opener.  After  passing  the 
:eed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker  the 
octton  comes  under  the 

ACTION  OF  THE  BEATER, 
[f  this  is  of  a  rigid,  two-bladed  type 
(which  is  the  one  most  generally  used) 
the  speed  should  be  about  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  the  breaker 
picker  is  40  pounds  or  about  16  ounces 
to  the  yard.  These  laps  are  taken 
and  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  The  roving 
waste  is  mixed  in  at  this  point  in  the 
proportion  of  three  laps  of  good  cot- 
ton to  one  lap  of  bobbin  or  roving 
waste.  The  roving  waste  is  put 
through  a  special  picker  that  takes 
out  the  twist  and  delivers  it  in  a  light, 
fluffy  state.  This  is  taken  and  spread 
evenly  on  the  apron  of  a  picker  and 
made  into  a  lap,  the  weight  of  which 
corresponds  to  the  weight  of  the  laps 
of  the  same  kind  being  put  up  at  the 
back  of  the  finisher  picker.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  (two-bladed  rigid  type) 
for  this  class  of  work  is  about  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  gives  the 
cotton  passing  through  42  beats  per 
inch.     The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  should  be 
about  35  pounds,  a  variation  of  Yz 
pound  being  allowed  from  standard. 
If  the  weight  is  more  than  i/^  pound, 
the  laps  should  be  run  over  again,  i.  e., 
placed  at  the  back  of  the  finisher  and 
run  through  with  three  other  laps.  If 
there  is  a  great  variation  in  the  laps, 
the  machine  should  be  looked  into  to 
see  what  is  the  cause.  For  slight  va- 
riations in  weight  there  are  adjust- 
ments to  quickly  remedy  the  defects. 
The  lap  at  the  front  for  this  class  of 
goods  should  weigh  12 1^  ounces  to  the 
yard.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card 
and  the  draft  of  this  machine  should 
not  be  less  than  100.  Medium  card 
fillet  wire  should  be  used  on  both  the 
cylinder,  doffer  and  flats,  the  wire  on 
the  doffer  and  flats  being  one  point 
finer  than  that  used  on  the  cylinder. 
The  speed  of  the  cylinder  should  be 
about     165    revolutions    per    minute; 


speed  of  licker-in,  about  350  revolu- 
tions per  minute ;  the  speed  of  the  top 
flats,  1  complete  revolution  every  50 
minutes. 

THE  CARDS 

should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  ground  surely  once  a  month.  At 
the  time  of  grinding,  the  card  wires 
should  be  all  straightened  out  and  all 
reset  properly.  Light  grinding  should 
always  be  used.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  front  should  be  about  65 
grains  per  yard.  The  production  for 
a  week  of  60  hours  (allowing  10  per 
cent  of  time  for  cleaning,  stoppage, 
etc.)  is  about  700  pounds.  The  cotton 
sliver  is  then  passed  on  to  the  draw- 
ing frames  and  through  three  proc- 
esses of  these  machines.  The  drawing 
frames  may  be  either  equipped  with 
metallic  or  leather  covered  top  rolls, 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  at  each 
process  being  about  400  revolutions 
per  minute.  See  that  the  drawing 
frame  bottom  rolls  are  properly  set,  a 
good  setting  for  this  stock  being  as  fol- 
lows: From  center  of  front  roll  to 
center  of  second  roll,  1^/4  inches;  sec- 
ond to  third  roll,  Ig  inches;  third  to 
back  roll,  1%  inches. 

The  weight  of  sliver  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  drawing  frame  should  be 
72  grains,  the  doubling  at  each  proc- 
ess being  six  into  one. 

AT  THE  SLUBBER 
the  sliver  is  drawn  into  .50  hank  rov- 
ing. From  here  it  passes  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the 
hank  roving  being  as  follows:  First 
intermediate,  1.50  hank;  second 
intermediate,  4.00,  and  fine  frame 
10.00  hank.  At  the  fly  frame  look  out 
for  the  top  leather  covered  rolls. 
These  should  always  be  in  the  best  of 
shape.  Put  just  enough  twist  into  the 
roving  so  that  it  will  not  break  back 
at  the  succeeding  process.  Remember, 
every  extra  turn  of  twist  given  the 
roving  lessens  the  production.  On  the 
other  hand,  do  not  get  the  roving  too 
slack  twisted,  for  then  loss  of  produc- 
tion, as  well  as  poor  work,  will  result 
in  consequence  of  the  roving  breaking 
back.  The  warp  roving  is  then  taken 
to  the  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  40s  yarn  on  a  frame 
having      the      following    particulars: 


486 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Gauge  of  frame,  2|  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
6%  inches;  speed  of  spindle,  10,000 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  roving 
for  the  filling  yarn  may  be  taken  to 
either  the  ring  spinning  or  the  mule 
room,  where  it  is  spun  into  45s  yarn. 
If  taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room, 
use  a  frame  of  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  23  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  li  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
5%  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  8,800 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  warp 
yarn  is  then  spooled  and  warped  and 
run  through  a  slasher. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  pieces  are  boiled  out  for  dark 
shades,  and  bleached  white  for  light 
shades  and  tints. 

The  dyeing  is  done  on  a  jig  machine. 

PINK. 
8     ounces     diamine     rose     GD.,     20 
pounds    Glauber's,    1    pound   sal    soda. 
All  the  dyeings  are  for  10-12  gallons 
water  and  10  pieces,  50  yards. 

SALMON. 
4  ounces  diamine  orange  B.,  1  ounce 
diamine   scarlet   B.,    15    pounds   Glau- 
Der's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT   BUFF. 
4   ounces    diamine     catechine    G.,    1 
ounce    diamine     fast    yellow     B.,     15 
pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
4    ounces    diamine    black     BH.,     15 
pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  GRAY. 
One-half  pound  diamine  gray  G.,  15 
pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
One-half    pound    diamine    catechine 
G.,    Vz    pound     diamine     brown    B.,    2 
ounces    diamine    fast    yellow    A.,   20 
pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

RED. 
3   pounds   diamine    fast  red    F.,   30 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

SKY  BLUE. 
2  pounds  diamine  sky  blue  FF.,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 


SLATE. 

1  pound  immedial  black  NB.,  4 
ounces  immedial  olive  B.,  1  pound  sul- 
phide of  sodium,  20  pounds  Glauber's, 
Vz  pound  soda  ash. 

PEARL. 

2  ounces  immedial  black  NRT.,  % 
pound  sulphide  sodium,  10  pounds 
Glaubei's,  6  ounces  soda  ash. 

BLACK. 
15   pounds   immedial  black   NN.,   15 
pounds    sulphide   sodium,    30    pounds 
Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 
NAVY   BLUE. 

2  pounds  immedial  indone  3B.,  2 
pounds  immedial  indone  R.,  5  pounds 
sulphide  sodium,  30  pounds  Glauber's, 
3  pounds  sal  soda. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 

3  pounds  brilliant  benzo  green  B.,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

1  pound  heliotrope  BB.,  25  pounds 
Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

WINE. 
3     pounds    tetrazo     corinth    G.,    30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 
OLD  GOLD. 

2  pounds  diamine  fast  yeho  A.,  1^4 
pounds  diamine  brown  3  G.,  30  pounds 
Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

FINISHING. 

Cotton  Italians  are  finished  with  a 
calender  finish,  passed  through  a  cot- 
ton rolled  calender  to  get  a  good  fin- 
ish, and  then  softened  dow'n,  with  a 
light  beetling  on  a  beetling  machine, 
or  finished  altogether  on  a  beetling 
machine. 

They  are  also  given  a  hot  press  fin- 
ish on  the  hydraulic  press  with  hot 
press  plates  and  papers,  to  imitate 
the  worsted  Italians. 


Beetling    Process    for   Finishing. 

The  beetling  process  for  finishing 
cotton  and  linen  piece  goods  is  one  of 
the  oldest  finishes  in  the  bleaching 
and  dyeing  trades. 

It  was  first  invented  in  the  linen 
bleacheries  of  the  north  of  Ireland  in 
the  Belfast  district.  The  first  beetling 
machines  were  very  crude  affairs  com- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


487 


pared  with  the  machines  now  in 
service. 

The  beam  on  which  the  cloth  was 
wound  was  a  large  tree  trunk  turned 
down  and  smoothed,  which  was  set 
in  motion  with  a  handle.  The  part  of 
the  machine  which  lifted  the  fallers 
was  also  turned  by  hand.  The  prin- 
ciple of  a  finish  by  a  beetling  machine 
is  simply  an  improvement  on  the  old 
mangle,  to  smooth  the  cloth,  and  fill 
in  the  spaces  between  the  threads, 
making  the  cloth  more  opaque,  and 
showing  the  ordinary  linen  finish.  A 
good  beetle  finish  is  also  a  permanent 
finish  and  will  stand  sponging  and 
ironing. 

THE  NEW  BEETLES 

are  made  entirely  of  iron,  except  the 
fallers,  which  are  wooden.  The  cloth 
is  wound  on  the  iron  cylinder  or  beam, 
which  revolves  about  40  times  a  min- 
ute; the  fallers  are  lifted  by  cams  and 
fall  of  their  own  weight,  about  16 
inches  on  the  cloth,  from  40  to  50 
times  a  minute.  The  cloth  receives 
by  this  process  a  tremendous  hammer- 
ing, and  where  10  or  more  machines 
are  together  the  noise  is  simply  deaf- 
ening. 

Goods  made  of  half  linen  and  half 
cotton  can  be  finished  to  look  like  all 
linen  goods,  and  in  some  goods  made 
of  all  cotton  the  finish  makes  the 
pieces  exactly  like  a  piece  of  linen, 
and   even 

AN  EXPERT  MAY  BE  DECEIVED 
thereby.  Some  goods  are  heavily 
starched  and  dryed,  then  sprinkled 
put  on  the  beetles,  and  hammered  for 
four  or  five  days,  being  sprinkled  and 
turned  occasionally.  The  beetles  are 
run  night  and  day  with  two  crews.  In 
Ireland,  where  labor  is  cheap  and 
water  power  is  used,  the  finish  is  not 
very  expensive,  although  the  process 
is  very  long,  as  the  goods  are  often  on 
the  beetles  for  six  days.  "^Tiere  steam 
power  only  is  used,  the  finish  is  al- 
most prohibitory,  and  as  a  very  large 
and  expensive  plant  is  required  to  turn 
out  a  large  amount  of  goods,  not  many 
plants  of  any  great  capacity  have  been 
erected  in  this  country. 

The  largest  beetling  works  are  those 
of  the  Macnab  Company,  Hurlet,  Pais- 
ley,  Scotland.     There  are  about    100 


sections   of   beetles   there,   and   some 
very  fine  work  is  turned  out. 

A  GOOD  FINISH 
is  obtained  on  silesias  by  first  passing 
the  goods  through  a  calender  and  then 
giving  a  few  hours  on  the  beetle. 
Mather  and  Piatt,  of  Manchester,  have 
a  patent  beetle  with  spring  hammers 
instead  of  fallers.  This  machine  is 
said  to  be  good  for  some  finishes,  but 
many  prefer  the  old  wooden  faller  ma- 
chine. Any  width  of  cloth  can  be  fin- 
ished on  the  beetle.  Holland  shades 
of  over  100  inches  in  width  are  han- 
dled with  ease,  and  the  width  of  the 
cloth  is  always  increased  during  the 
process  of  beetle  finish. 


CHEESECLOTH 

This  is  a  thin  cotton  fabric  of  light 
weight  and  low  counts  of  yarn,  which 
for  cheapness  ranks  among  the  first 
in  cotton  fabrics. 

The  fact  that  it  is  a  cheap  fabric  has 
much  to  do  with  its  popularity.  In  so 
far  that  it  is  used  for  innumerable  pur- 
poses; chief  among  which  we  may 
mention  that  it  is  used  for  wrapping 
cheeses  and  butter  after  they  are 
pressed,  for  these  purposes  only  the 
bleached  fabric  being  used.  It  is  also 
much  in  demand  for  bunting  for  festal 
occasions,  for  light  curtains,  masquer- 
ade dresses,  etc.  When  used  for  bunt- 
ings, draperies  and  the  like,  it  is  usu- 
ally in  colors.  Red,  blue,  cream  and 
yellow  bunting  seem  to  have  the  great- 
est demand. 

In  the  sample  which  will  now  be 
considered,  the  cheesecloth  is  of  a  fair 
quality;  the  weave  is  a  one  and  one, 
or  plain  weave;  there  is  very  little  va- 
riety in  the  designing. 

THE  CHIEF  OBJECT 
of  the  designer  in  constructing  a  fab- 
ric of  this  character  is  to  find  the  least 
number  of  ends  and  picks  per  inch  re- 
quired, so  that  the  fabric  will  not  slip 
too  easily;  that  is,  if  the  cloth  is 
taken  between  the  thumb  and  first 
finger  of  each  hand,  and  the  thumbs 
drawn  away  from  each  other  over  the 
surface  of  the  fabric  and  first  fingers, 
the  ends,  if  pulling  in  the  direction  of 
the  filling,  will  not  leave  <Jieir  proper 


488 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


places  too  easily,  or,  if  pulling  in  the 
direction  of  the  warp,  the  picks  or  fill- 
ing will  not  give  too  easily. 

This  tendency  to  slip  is  entirely  due 
to  the  lack  of  material  necessary  to 
produce  a  perfect  or  firm  cloth. 

A  PERFECT  CLOTH 
may  be  defined  as  a  cloth  in  which 
the  warp  or  weft  yarns  are  equal  in 
diameter  and  the  spaces  between  the 
threads  are  equal  to  the  diameter  of 
the  yarn. 

For  instance,  let  us  construct  a  per- 
fect cloth  with  l-36s  cotton  yarn  for 
both  warp  and  filling.  By  squaring  the 
counts  we  find  the  diameter  of  yarn  to 
be  l-165th  part  of  an  inch;  that  is,  165 
threads  of  l-36s  will  lie  side  by  side 
in  one  inch,  and  by  subtracting  one- 
half  of  the  165  to  allow  for  the  space 
required  for  the  interlacing  with  the 
weft  we  have  82  ends  and  82  picks 
necessary  for  one  inch  of  cloth. 

In  the  sample  in  question  there  is 
only  about  half  the  number  necessary 
to  make  perfect  or  firm  cloth. 

ANALYSIS   OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,   36   inches. 

Ends  per  inch  in  reed,  42;  ends  per 
inch  in   finished   cloth,  45. 

Picks  per  inch  in  loom,  42;  picks  per 


■DBDiaan 

DDnnnanaDDnnnDGB 

DacHDBDB 

□□DDDDBDDDDDDaMD 

■DHaBOBD 

DonnaaDDDDDDnBDa 

aHOaDBBQ 

nnnDBDaDDDDDaDDa 

■DBDBDBn 

DnDBaDDDDDDBDnDa 

i BOBOBOB 

oaaGnannDnBDDnna 

BDBnBDBn 

OBDDDnnaaannaDDa 

DBDBaBDB 

■naaaDDDBDDDDDDD 
Fig  2. 

DDBBnaaa 

BBUOBBOO 

inch,  finished,  42;  ends  in  warp,  1,620. 

Reed,  750  x  2. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving  6 
per  cent;  weight  of  cloth,  per  yard, 
from  loom,  1.7  ounces;  finished  weight 
per  yard,  practically  the  same. 

Warp,  all  l-36s  cotton  carded  peel- 
er; filling,  all  l-36s  cotton  carded 
peeler. 

Fig.  1,  design. 

Fig.  2,  drawing-in  draft. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 
The  retail  price  of  cheesecloth,  5  to 
8  cents  per  yard,  requires  that  it  be 


woven  on  a  high  running  speed  loom 
The  automatic  loom  would  be  about 
the  best,  running  at  about  160  pickf 
per  minute.  If  the  warps  are  properly 
sized  a  weaver  can  take  care  of  16  to 
32  looms. 

FINISH. 

Cheesecloth  is  given  very  little  fin- 
ish. After  it  comes  from  the  loom,  it 
passes  to  the  dyehouse,  where  it  is 
bleached  or  dyed  as  the  case  may  be; 
the  cloth  is  dyed  in  a  gig  dyeing  ma- 
chine. After  the  dyeing  it  is  passed 
through  a  rotary  press  with  cylinder 
slightly  heated,  after  which  it  is  fold- 
ed and  is  then  ready  for  the  market. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  cheesecloth  are 
made  up  would  be  made  in  mills  hav- 
ing an  equipment  of  machinery  for 
making  coarse  or  medium  grade 
yarns.  There  are  several  kinds  and 
grades  of  cotton  used  for  the  manu- 
facture of  this  cloth  and  the  count  of 
yarn  varies,  but  not  to  such  an  ex- 
tent as  has  been  the  case  with  the 
cloths  that  have  been  described  in  late 
articles.  For  this  article  it  will  be 
considered  that  the  cotton  is  made 
up  of  a  medium  grade  of  cotton  of 
1  1-16  inches  length  of  staple  and  that 
the  count  of  the  yarn  for  both  warp 
and  filling  is  36s.  The  cotton  is  fed 
to  the  bale  breaker  (if  the  mill  con- 
tains one)  or  the  bales  are  placed 
around  the  mixing  bin  and  mixed  by 
hand. 

THE  HAND  MIXING 
does  not  give  as  uniform  a  mixing  as 
the  bale  breaker,  and  when  the  mixing 
is  done  by  hand  it  ought  to  stand  long- 
er before  being  used,  so  that  it  will 
dry  out  thoroughly.  For  this  class  of 
goods  three  processes  of  picking  and 
an  opener  are  used.  The  good  waste 
cotton  is  mixed  direct  into  the  bin 
with  the  raw  stock  as  it  is  collected. 
The  cotton  is  then  fed  to  the  opener, 
which  is  generally  supplied  with  a  por- 
cupine opener,  and  this  should  revolve 
at  about  1,050  revolutions  per  minute. 
From  the  opener  the  cotton  is  convey- 
ed by  an  endless  apron  to  feed  rolls 
of  the  breaker  picker,  which  condense 
the  fluffy  mass  into  a  sheet  and  offer 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


489 


it  to  the  beater.  The  beater  of  this 
machine  and  also  of  the  intermediate 
and  finisher  pickers  is  generally  of 
the  rigid,  two-bladed  type.  The  break- 
er picker  makes  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  being  40  pounds,  or  16  ounces 
per  yard.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and 

DOUBLED   FOUR   INTO    ONE, 

The  beater  of  this  machine  should 
make  about  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  being  37  pounds,  or  12  ounces  to 
the  yard.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  four  into 
one,  the  beater  making  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  end  being  35 
pounds  or  12 1/^  ounces  to  yard  of  lap. 
Keep  the  draught  of  the  pickers  on 
the  top  cage,  as  this  will  help  to  pre- 
vent splitting  of  laps;  also  see  that 
the  fiy  is  not  allowed  to  accumulate 
to  any  great  extent  under  the  ma- 
chines. There  should  always  be  a  sup- 
ply of  laps  ahead,  in  case  of  a  break- 
down. Always  use  old  laps  first  and 
not  the  newly  made  ones.  The  laps  are 
carried  to  the  card.  The  draught  of 
this  machine  for  this  class  of  work 
should  not  exceed  100.  The  top  fiats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes.  Cards  should  be  set 
for  coarse  work,  using  No.  33  wire  on 
cylinder  fillet,  and  No.  34  wire  on 
doffer  and  top  fiats.  Use  a  26  or  27 
inch  diameter  doffer. 

THE  SLIVER 

should  weigh  65  grains  per  yard,  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be  750  pounds.  The  sliver  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  draw- 
ing. It  would  be  of  great  advantage  to 
use  metallic  rolls.  The  doublings  at 
each  process  are  six  into  one.  The 
drawing  sliver  is  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .50 
hank  roving.  This  roving  passes 
through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames.  At  the  first  intermediate  tht; 
hank  roving  is  1.56,  at  the  second  in- 
termediate this  is  made  into  3.75 
hank,  and  at  the  fly  frame  7.50.  At 
the  fly  frame  watch  the  leather  top 
rolls.     The   bottom   steel   rolls   should 


be  taken  out  and  scoured  at  least  once 
a  year.  The  hank  roving  is  then  taken 
to  the  ring  spinning  room,  or  the  rov- 
ing for  the  filling  may  be  taken  to  the 
mule  room  and  made  into  36s  yarn.  If 
taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM, 
use  a  frame  having  the  following  par- 
ticulars (for  36s  filling):  Gauge  of 
Irame,  2|  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  QVz 
inches;  speed  of  spindles,  10,200  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  For  warp  yarns 
(36s),  use  2|  inches  gauge  of  frame; 
Ig  inches  diameter  of  ring,  and  5V2 
inches  length  of  traverse,  with  spin- 
dles running  at  8,900  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  spool- 
ed, warped  and  run  through  a  slasher. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

Cheesecloth  is  dyed  on  the  gig  ma- 
chine, or  in  the  starch  mangle  during 
the  starching  process. 

PINK. 

For  10  gallons  liquor,  3  paunds  8 
ounces  constarch  or  dextrine,  4-6 
ounces  Erika  pink,  2  pounds  Glauber's, 
1  pound  sal  soda. 

YELLOW. 
As  pink;  1  pound  chrysophenine. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 
As  pink;  2  pounds  alum,  no  sal  soda, 
1  pound  Victoria  blue  B. 

SCARLET. 
As  pink;    2  pounds  diamine  scarlet 
B. 

RED. 
As  pink;   3  pounds  benzo  purpurine 
4B. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
As   pink;    8    ounces   diamine    black 
BH.,  1  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B. 

BROWN. 
As  pink;  2  pounds  benzo  fast  orange 
S.,  2  pounds  chrysophenine,  %   pound 
benzo   fast   black. 

HELIOTROPE. 
As  pink;   1  pound  benzo  fast  violet 
R.,  4  ounces  benzo  fast  blue  BN. 


490 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


VELVETEEN 


Velveteens,  also  termed  fustians  and 
velverets,  are  heavy  cotton  fabrics  in 
whicli  the  distinguishing  effect  is 
formed  by  the  points  of  the  fibres  in 
the  filling  yarns,  termed  the  pile,  be- 
ing presented  to  the  vision,  and  not 
the  sides  of  the  yarns  as  in  the  ma- 
jority of  fabrics. 

They  are  principally  used  for  dress 
and  hat  trimmings,  suitings,  and  up- 
holstery, having  exceptional  wearing 
qualities  and  showing  a  full,  deep  col- 
or. 

Corduroys  are  sometimes  termed 
velveteens,  the  same  principle  of  con- 
struction being  adopted  in  both  fab- 


FIC.  I  . 

rics,  but  a  corduroy  is  distinguished 
by  having  a  corded  stripe  effect  run- 
ning lengthways  of  the  piece,  the  di- 
viding line  between  each  stripe  show- 
ing both  warp  and  filling. 

In  the  simplest  type  of  velveteens 
the  pile  filling,  after  being  cut,  hides 
the  warp  entirely  from  the  face.  To 
accomplish  this  the  goods  are  made 
with  a  comparatively  small  number  of 
ends  and  large  number  of  picks  per 
inch,  ranging  from  50  to  76  ends  and 
150  to  600  picks.  One  warp  only  is 
used. 

A  fairly  heavy  loom  is  necessary. 

Figures  1  and  2  illustrate  two  meth- 
ods of  arranging  the  whip  rolls  and 
yarn  when  weaving  some  of  the  heav- 


ier picked  goods.  In  each  figure  A 
represents  the  warp  beam  and  B  the 
whip  rolls.  The  dotted  line  indicates 
the  direction  of  the  yarn. 

Standard  widths  for  velveteens  are 
19  inches,  22 1/^  inches,  24 1/^  inches  and 
2TY2  inches  or  28  inches.  For  the  lat- 
ter width  the  warp  is  spread  about 
331/^  inches  in  the  loom.  The  weights 
for  28-inch  goods  vary  from  one  to 
three  and  one-half  yards  per  pound. 

The  goods  are  usually  woven  two  or 
more  widths  in  the  loom,  with  split 
selvages. 

In  order  that  the  fabric  may  remain 
firm  after  the  pile  picks  are  cut, 
ground  or  binder  picks  are  inserted 
regularly,  working  either  plain  or  twill 
as    may    be   desired.     The    filling    for 


these  picks  is  similar  to  that  used  for 
the  pile,  only  one  shuttle  being  used. 

Figure  3  is  a  design  for  a  velveteen, 
arranged  one  ground  and  three  pile 
picks,  the  ground  weave  being  plain. 
The  drawing-in  draft  is  straight  on  6 
harnesses,  1  to  6.  The  selvages  are 
woven  with  a  selvage  motion. 

The  ends  are  reeded  2  in  each  dent 

The  chain  draft  is  similar  to  the 
weave.  Figure  3. 

Six  ends  and  eight  picks  repeat. 

Figure  4  shows  a  sectional  view  of 
the  cloth  before  being  cut.  Figure  5 
shows  the  same  with  the  pile  cut.  Let- 
tered circles  in  these  figures  corre- 
spond to  ends,  and  numbered  lines  to 
picks,  in  Figure  3. 


4 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


491 


An  analysis  of  two  fabrics  woven 
with  design.  Figure  3,  shows  the  fol- 
lowing: 

Sample  No.  1:  76  ends  and  192  picks 
per  inch;  28s  warp  and  40s  filling; 
width  23  inches;  weight  4.35  yards  per 
pound. 

This  is  a  velveteen  of  poor  quality. 

Sample  No.  2  is  of  a  good  quality. 
It  contains  76  ends  and  375  picks  per 
inch,  2-ply  60s  warp  and  55s  filling, 
and  the  weight  is  3.35  yards  per 
pound. 

Some  velveteens  are  sold  by  weight, 
similar  to  men's  wear  fabrics,  so  many 
ounces  per  yard. 

Another  standard  fabric  woven  with 
design  Figure  3  Is  as  follows:  74  ends, 
260  picks,  2-ply  70s  warp,  60s  filling. 


of  picks,  therefore,  the  pile  cannot  be 
made  very  full. 

PURPOSES. 

For  dress  and  trimming  purposes 
velveteens  are  usually  of  a  solid  col- 
or, being  piece-dyed. 

For  upholstery  purposes  the  goods 
are  dyed,  printed,  embossed  or  stamp- 
ed. Panel  and  stripe  patterns  are  also 
made  by  cutting  a  raised  figure  on  an 
uncut  ground,  or  vice  versa,  by  paint- 
ing or  by  the  pyrogravure  process, 
burning. 

When 

STAMPING 
velveteens   the   goods  are   passed   be- 
tween two  cylinders.   The  upper  cylin- 
der is  of  iron  and  is  heated  from  the 


fio.^. 


»i».5 


Figure  6  shows  a  design  with  a  3- 
end  twill  ground,  arranged  one  ground 
and  three  pile  picks.  The  drawing-in 
draft  is  straight,  reed  draft,  2  ends 
per  dent,  chain  draft  same  as  weave, 
repeated  to  18  picks.   Selvages  extra. 

Figure  7  shows  a  design  for  what  is 
termed  a  fast  back  velveteen,  arrang- 
ed one  ground  and  four  pile  picks. 
When  each  pile  pick  is  tied  under  two 
ends,  as  in  this  example,  the  effect  is 
not  so  good  as  when  tied  only  once, 
but  the  wearing  qualities  are  im- 
proved. 

In  the  preceding  examples  It  will 
be  seen  that  the  pile  filling  is  bound 
only  on  every  other  end. 

Figure  8  illustrates  a  design  in 
which  the  pile  is  bound  in  on  every 
end.  This  type  makes  a  firm  texture 
but  does  not  admit  of  a  large  number 


inside.  The  pattern  is  engraved  or 
sunk  into  this.  The  lower  cylinder  is 
of  hard  wood.  The  pile  is  compressed 
by  the  projecting  part  of  the  upper 
cylinder,  causing  the  pattern  to  stand 
out  in  relief  from  a  dull  ground,  or 
vice  versa. 

PAINTING   ON   VELVETEENS 
is  essentially  a  hand  process.   The  col- 
ors have  to  be  free  from  oil  that  they 
may  not  spread  beyond  the  limits  in- 
tended. 

In  the  pyrogravure  process  of  mak- 
ing patterns  on  velveteens,  the  sketch 
is  first  made  and  placed  in  a  panto- 
graph machine.  With  a  platinum 
stylus  heated  to  redness  the  operator 
then  burns  out  the  pile  along  the  lines 
traced,   leaving  a  very   clear  pattern. 

From  the  time  a  velveteen  leaves 
the  loom  to  the  time  it  is  ready  for 


492 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


cutting,  it  has  to  be  passed  througn 
several  processes.  It  is  first  put 
through  a  back  starching  and  drying 
machine. 

After  drying,  the  better  grades  are 
raised  on  the  under  side  to  make  a 
softer  feeling  cloth.  The  lower  qual- 
ities are  not  raised  on  account  of  the 
tendency  for  the  process  to  weaken 
the   cloth. 


8  nnoDfflD 

1  DDtBDCD 
6    EBaDDDD 

6  DaQBoa 

*  DdDD&D 
3  DDfflDDa 

2  fflaanna 
1  mnmama 

AB  CD  EF 

Fig.  3. 


DDDsn 

naaaa 

■  OHBD 

BsaaauD 

□□QDSD 
■DBHOa 
DDSDDD 

EBDnnnn 

ammamm 

Fig.  6. 


nDHnBDoa 
fflDfflDDoaa 
DaaHaaDB 

DDODeosn 
nnsasDDn 

E'DWDDDDD 

■iDBaBc:.aa 
Fig  7. 


DfflnnDDDD 

□DDDDenn 

ODDDDaaa 
DBDaDaaa 
EBDaaaanc 

anDDfflDDD 

nnaaaDDa 

DDDDDDfflD 

■anaaaaD 
Fig.  8. 


The  goods  are  then,  while  under  ten- 
sion, saturated  with  a  weak  milk  of 
lime,  the  solution  being  brushed  into 
them  on  the  face  side. 

The  next  process  is  drying.  This  is 
done  by  a  device  in  which  rods  are 
automatically  inserted  below  the  fab- 
ric, so  that  the  latter  hangs  down  in 
loops. 

After  drying,  the  cloth  is  folded  and 
passed  to  the  brushing  machine.  This 
machine  removes  the  lime  and  loosens 
the  filling  floats  so  that  the  knife  can 
readily    enter   beneath    them. 

The  cutting  process  proper  now 
takes  place,  being  done  either  by  ma- 
chinery or  by  hand. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  fabric  for  which  the  carding  and 
spinning  particulars  are  given  below 
is  made  up  in  several  grades.  For  this 
article  only  two  grades  will  be  con- 
sidered, a  coarse  one  having  a  warp  of 
l-28s  and  l-40s  filling;  and  a  fine 
grade,  the  warp  yarn  of  which  is  2-70s 
and  with  a  filling  of  2-60s  yarn.  This 
fabric,  all  grades,  would  be  made  eith- 
er in  the  second  or  third  division  of 
mills  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson. 
We  will  consider 

THE  COARSER  GRADE 
first.  This  would  be  made  from  a  me- 
dium grade  1%-inch  staple  cotton  and 
run  through  the  bale  breaker  with 
blower  and  endless  lattice  connec- 
tions, so  that  it  will  reach  the  mixing 
bins  in  a  dry.  open  state.   When  feed- 


ing the  bale  breaker  do  not  feed  one 
entire  lap  before  starting  on  another, 
but  open  several  laps  around  the  bale 
breaker  and  feed  from  each  bale  alter- 
nately.  The  mixing  should  be 

AS  LARGE  AS  POSSIBLE, 
so  that  there  will  be  less  variation 
in  the  yarn  than  when  small  mixings 
are  used.  The  good  waste  from  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed 
into  the  bin  as  it  is  collected.  The  cot- 
ton is  next  put  through  an  opener  and 
either  2  or  3  processes  of  pickers.  It 
is  the  general  custom  nowadays  to  use 
2  processes,  but  the  particulars  for 
three  processes  will  be  given.  If  one 
process  is  left  out,  use  particulars  giv- 
en for  breaker  and  finisher  pickers. 
Feed  the  hopper  of  the  opener  so  that 
it  is  always  more  than  half  full,  be- 
cause the  more  cotton  there  is  in  the 
hopper  the  more  cotton  will  be  taken 
up  by  the  spiked  apron,  and  thus  a 
more  even  sheet  will  be  presented  to 
the  beater,  which  is  generally  of  a 
porcupine  type  and  is  speeded  up  to 
1,000  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  at  the  breaker 
picker  is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  laps  at  the  front 
of  this  machine  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.    These  laps  are 

DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE 
at  the  intermediate.  At  this  machine 
the  speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or 
a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
doubled  four  into  one  at  the  finisher 
picker,  the  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  being  39  pounds  or  14%-ounce 
lap.  The  speed  of  this  beater  is  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  which  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  it  42  blows 
or  beats  per  Inch.  Each  lap,  as  it  is 
taken  from  the  front  of  the  finisher 
picker,  should  be  weighed,  and  all 
those  laps  ranging  over  a  half  a  pound 
from  the  standard,  either  way  (light 
or  heavy),  should  be  run  over  again. 
The 

CUT-ROVING   WASTE 
is  mixed  in  at  the  back  of  the  finisher 
picker  in  proportion  of  one  lap  of  rov- 
ing waste  to  three  laps  of  raw  stock. 
The    cut -roving     waste     has     to     go 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


493 


through  a  special  process  to  take  out 
twist,  and  from  here  it  is  put  through 
a  picker  which  forms  it  into  a  lap, 
then  it  is  mixed  with  the  raw  stock  as 
above.  From  the  picker  the  laps  are 
taken  to  the  card.  The  draft  of  this 
machine  should  be  about  110.  The  set- 
tings should  be  medium  and  the  wire 
fillet  used  would  be  No.  35  for  doffer 
and  flats  and  No.  34  for  cylinder.  The 
speed  of  the  top  flats  should  be  one 
complete  revolution  every  40  minutes. 
The  sliver  at  the  front  should  weigh 
65  grains  per  yard,  and  the  production 
for  a  week  of  6)  hours  should  be 
about  800  pounds.  The  sliver  is  then 
put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 

the  doublings  at  each  process  being 
six  into  one. 

The  speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400 
revolutions  per  minute  at  each  proc- 
ess. The  sliver  should  weigh  about  70 
grains  per  yard.  This  is  then  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .50 
hank  roving.  The  roving  to  be  used 
for  28s  yarn  is  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at 
the  first  intermediate  being  2  and  at 
the  second  6.  This  is  then  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room  and  made  into  28s 
yarn  on  a  warp  frame  having  the  fol- 
lowing particulars:  Gauge  of  frame, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  13 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  6^  inches; 
speed  of  spindles,  9,700  revolutions  per 
minute.  From  here  it  is  passed 
through  the  spooler,  which  takes  the 
yarn  from  the  cop  and  winds  it  onto 
a  spool.  From  here  it  is  wound  onto 
a  beam  and  several  of  these  beams 
are  put  up  at  the  ends  and  run  through 
the  slasher  and  wound  onto  a  beam 
at  the  front,  which  has  the  required 
number  of  ends  necessary  for  the  warp 
of  the  fabric. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING 
for  filling  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing 1.50  at  the  first  intermediate,  4 
hank  at  the  second  and  8  hank  at  the 
last  frame.  This  roving  for  filling  may 
be  taken  to  either  the  mule  room  or 
the  ring  spinning  room  to  be  made  into 
40s.  We  will  consider  it  to  be  taken 
to  the  ring   spinning  room   and  spun 


on  a  frame  having  the  following  par- 
ticulars: Gauge  of  frame,  23  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  11  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5i/^  inches. 

FOR  THE  FINER  GRADES 
of  velveteen  the  foregoing  general 
particulars  may  be  used,  but  substitut- 
ing the  following  for  60s  and  70s  yarn: 
Use  11  inches  staple  cotton;  at  the 
pickers  the  total  weight  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds  or  16-ounce  lap  at 
the  beater  and  35  pounds  or  12-ounce 
lap  at  finisher,  no  intermediate  pick- 
er being  used.  At  the  card  the  top  flats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  40  minutes,  the  weight  of  sliver 
at  front  being  65  grains  and  produc- 
tion about  500  pounds  per  week. 

THE  DRAFT 
should  not  be  less  than  120.  Some- 
times the  filling  yarn  is  combed,  but 
we  will  consider  this  yarn  to  be  card- 
ed and  so  it  will  be  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing.  At  the  slubber 
the  sliver  is  drawn  into  .55  hank  rov- 
ing and  for  both  warp  and  filling  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  being  as  fol- 
lows: To  make  70s  yarn:  first  inter- 
mediate, 1.50  hank;  second,  4  hank; 
and  jack  frames,  14  hank.  To  make  60s 
yarn:  first  intermediate,  1.50;  second, 
4  hank;  and  fine,  12  hank.  The  14- 
liank  roving  is  taken  and  spun  into 
70s  yarn   on   a 

WARP  SPINNING  FRAME 
fitted  up  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame, 
23  inches;  diameter  of  ring.  If  inches; 
speed  of  spindles,  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute;  length  of  traverse,  BVz 
inches.  From  here  it  is  spooled,  then 
twisted  into  2-ply  and  spooled  again, 
warped  and  put  through  the  slasher. 
The  12  roving  to  be  made  into  60s 
yarn  may  be  taken  either  to  the  mule 
room  or  the  ring  spinning  room.  If 
taken  to  the  ring  frame,  use  a  frame 
having  the  following:  Gauge  of  frame, 
23  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  5  inches. 
The  yarn   is  then  twisted   into   2-60s. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

Velveteen  is  dyed  on  the  jigger  ma- 
chine in  15  gallons  of  liquor  at  175  de- 


494 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARV 


grees  F.;  for  30  pounds  of  goods,  one- 
half  pound  of  soda  ash,  one-quarter 
pound  sulphide  sodium,  1  pound  salt; 
boil  up  the  liquor,  add  the  soda,  so- 
dium sulphide  and  salt  before  adding 
the  dyestuff,  strain  through  a  piece  of 
calico  into  the  jigger. 

The  goods  are  run  for  30  to  60  min- 
utes; rinse  well  in  water  after  dyeing. 

ECRU. 
4  ounces  immedial  bronze  A.,  after- 
treat   with    Vz    per   cent   bichrome,    i/^ 
per  cent   sulphate  copper. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
4  ounces  immedial  black  V.,  after- 
treat    %    per    cent   bichrome,    i^    per 
cent  sulphate  copper. 

PEARL. 
1%    ounces   immedial  black   V.,   l^/^ 
ounces  immedial  brown  B.,  after-treat 
as   slate. 

FAWN  DRAB. 
12    ounces    immedial    bronze    A.,    2 
ounces  immedial  brown  B. 
LIGHT  BROWN. 

1  pound  immedial  brown  B.,  4  ounces 
immedial  cutch  O.,  1  pound  sulphide 
sodium. 

MEDIUivI    BROWN. 
Vz  pound  immedial  yellow  D.,  1  pound 
immedial  brown   B.,    Vz    pound   imme- 
dial  cutch    O.,     iy2     pounds    sulphide 
sodium. 

DARK  BROWN. 
20  pounds  salt,  i/^  pound  soda  ash,  5 
pounds    sulphide,    i/^    pound   immedial 
black  NRT.  sodium,   8   pounds  imme- 
dial brown  B. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Dye  as  ecru  with  2  pounds  immedial 
blue  C,  2  pounds  sodium  sulphide,  l^ 
pound  soda  ash,  10  pounds  salt;  rinse 
and  top  with  methylene  blue  N.,  and 
shade  with  methyl  violet  B. 
BLACK. 

2  pounds  immedial  black  V.,  2 
pounds  sodium  sulphide,  i/^  pound  soda 
ash,  10  pounds  salt;  rinse  and  top 
with  a  one-dip  black,  or  paint  with 
Prussian  blue. 

INDIGO  BLUE. 
For    30    pounds    goods    in    Jigger,    1 
to  5   pounds  pyrogene  indigo,   1   to   5 


pounds  sodium  sulphide,  1  to  2  pounds 
soda  ash,  5  to  15  pounds  salt,  i/^  to  1 
pint  mineral  oil;  rinse  and  soap,  top 
with  methylene  blue. 

A  large  number  of  one-dip  colors 
are  also  dyed  on  velveteens,  from  light 
to  dark  shades.  Although  the  colors 
are  not  so  fast  as  sulphur  colors,  they 
are   sufl5ciently  fast  for  some  trades. 

After  dyeing,  the  goods  are  topped 
with  basic  colors,  as  methyl  violet 
with  methylene  blue,  Bismarck 
brown  and  other  bright  colors. 

For  30  pounds  of  goods,  3  pounds  di- 
amine green,  20  pounds  salt,  1  pound 
sal  soda;   top  with  Malachite  green. 

SULPHUR   GREEN. 

2  pounds  immedial  indone  BB.,  1 
pound  immedial  yellow  D.,  2  pounds 
sulphide  soda,  1  pound  soda  ash,  10 
pounds  salt.  Rinse  and  top  with  bril- 
liant  green   or   Malachite  green. 


VELVETEEN  CUTTING 

Velveteen  cutting  is  one  of  the  proc- 
esses incident  to  making  cloth  that  Is 
still,  to  a  considerable  extent,  done  by 
hand  for  practical  purposes,  although 
machines  are  now  in  constant  use  for 
accomplishing  the  same  results. 

The  object  of  cutting  is  to  present 
to  the  vision  the  points,  instead  of  the 
sides,  of  the  fibres  in  the  filling. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  the  type  of  knife 
used  when  the  cutting  is  done  by 
hand.  The  guide  A  is  inserted  in  a 
race  of  the  cloth,  and  raises  the  fill- 
ing to  the  cutting  edge  B.  as  it  is  forc- 
ed along. 

The  cutting  is  generally  done  with 
the  blade  of  the  knife  held  in  a  verti- 
cal position,  so  as  to  cut  the  filling  in 
the  center  of  the  float. 

A   STRIPE   EFFECT 

is  obtained,  either  intentionally  or  un- 
intentionally, by  varying  the  position 
of  the  knife  to  the  left,  center  or 
right,  if  two  or  three  positions  are 
held  while  cutting  the  same  piece.  In- 
stead of  cutting  with  the  knife  inclin- 
ed first  one  way  and  then  the  other,  to 
right  and  left,  when  making  stripes 
with  an  ordinary  weave,  knives  with 
two   blades   are    sometimes    used   to 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAlll 


495 


make  both  cuts  at  once,  one  blaae  be- 
ing a  little  shorter  than  the  other. 
There  are 

TWO  METHODS 

of  cutting  velveteens  by  hand:  (a)  thb 
long-frame  method;  (b)  the  short- 
frame  method.  In  both  these  the  cloth 
is  first  stretched  over  rollers  to  a  suit- 
able tension. 

In  long-frame  cutting,  two  pieces 
are  generally  arranged  parallel  to  each 
other  about  10  or  12  yards  long,  with 
room  enough  for  the  cutter  to  pass 
between.  The  cutter  cuts  one  race  in 
one  piece  when  walking  in  one  direc- 
tion and  a  race  in  the  other  piece 
when  returning.  Assuming  that  a  24- 
inch  velvet  with  900  races  is  required 
to  be  cut,  the  cutter  will  have  to  walk 
900  X  10,  which  equals  9,000  yards, 
or  over  5  miles  to  cut  10  yards.  This 
illustrates  how  laborious  the  hand-cut- 
ting process  is. 

IN   SHORT-FRAME   CUTTING, 

about  two  yards  of  cloth  are  cut  before 
a  change  is  made.  Here  the  cutter, 
with  a  peculiar  swing  of  the  body, 
forces  the  knife  to  the  end  of  the  two 
yards. 

Considerable  skill  is  required  in  a 
good  cutter,  as  a  wrong  movement  is 
liable  to  damage  the  piece,  either  by 
running  the  knife  through  it  or  by 
cutting  at  the  side  instead  of  the  cen- 
ter of  the  race. 

The  amount  of  seconds  in  velveteens 
is  very  large,  there  being  many  of 
them  made  after  they  leave  the  loom, 
as  well  as  during  the  process  of  weav- 
ing. The  least  imperfection  in  weav- 
ing will  cause  trouble  in  cutting. 

TWO   KINDS    OF   MACHINES. 

.Machines  for  cutting  velveteens  are 
of  two  kinds,  blade  cutters,  and  disc 
or  circular  cutters.  The  blade  cutters 
most  nearly  approach  the  results  at- 
tained by  hand  cutting,  the  blades  be- 
ing inserted  below  the  filling  so  as  to 
force  the  points  of  the  filling  upward 
as  they  cut.  The  disc  cutters  cut  the 
filling  from  the  top  of  the  cloth  down- 
ward, the  resulting  pile  being  inferior 
to   that   cut   by   blades.    Blade    cutter? 


496 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


are  of  two  kinds,  single  and  multiple. 
The  former  have  so  far  gi\en  the  most 
satisfactory  results  on  account  of  the 
difficulty  of  keeping  the  several  blades 
in  a  multiple  machine  in  perfect  align- 
ment with  each  other. 
The  blades  are  similar  to  those  used 


table,  and  the  knives  have  a  horizon- 
tal movement. 

Both  of  these  types  of  machines  are 
fitted  with  either  mechanical  or  elec- 
trical stop  motions,  which  cause  them 
to  stop  immediately  a  knife  jumps  out 
or   meets   with   an   obstruction    when 


Fig.  2. 


when    cutting   by    hand,   except    that 
they  are  smaller. 

With  a  single  blade  one  race  is  cut  at 
a  time,  either  in  lengths  of  12  yards  or 
the  entire  piece,  and  it  is  necessary  to 
repeat  the  operation  for  each  race  in 
the  cloth.  The  blade  machines  proper 
are  of  two  kinds,  those  in  which  the 
knives  are  stationary,  the  full  length 
of  cloth  being  passed  through  in  an 
endless  form,  and  those  in  which  the 
cloth  is  stationary,  stretched  on  a  long 


cutting,  or  when  the  end  of  the  race 
is  reached. 

Machine  cutters  require  the 
CONSTANT  ATTENTION 
of  a  skilled  mechanic  to  keep  them  In 
proper  condition.  If  they  are  not  kept 
sharp  and  exactly  to  gauge,  the  pile 
will  appear  strip  ey,  due  to  uneven  cut- 
ing. 

Figs.   2  and   3   illustrate  a  continu- 
ous cutting  machine  with  four  knives. 

Cloth  cut  by  a  machine  of  this  type 
is  claimed  to  be  of  a  superior  quality. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


497 


because  there  is  no  necessity  to  take 
the  knives  out  every  few  yards,  as  is 
the  case  in  hand  cutting. 

In  addition  to  the  regular  tension 
devices  for  holding  the  piece  tight, 
there  are  special  plates  arranged  for 
holding  and  supporting  the  fabric  im- 


that  they  lie  upon  the  fabric  as  it 
is  fed  forward,  and  so  continu- 
ously cut  it.  The  mounting  of  the 
knives  is  of  such  a  character  that  in 
the  event  of  an  accident,  the  worst 
that  can  happen  is  the  puncture  of 
the  fabric,  but  the  hole  so  made  is  only 


Fig.  3. 


aiediately   under   the   race   being   cut. 

The  mechanism  is  so  arranged  that 
the  knives,  plates,  etc.,  are  all  moved 
simultaneously,  after  each  cut. 

The  knives  are  mounted  on 
hinged     arms     in     such      a      manner 


a  small  one,  as  the  knife  is  instantly 
released  and  the  machine  stopped. 

When  the  end  of  a  race  is  reached 
the  knives  are  readjusted  and  another 
set  of  races  cut. 

The     disc     cutting      machines     are 


4db 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


fitted  with  cutting  discs  of  steel 
plate,  accurately  gauged  and  well 
sharpened,  mounted  on  a  shaft,  run- 
ning at  a  speed  of  about  3,000  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  They  are  sharpen- 
ed automatically  while  the  machine  is 
in  motion.  The  number  of  these  cut- 
ters depends  on  the  number  of  races 
to  be  cut. 

The  discs  run  inside  small  iron  tri- 
angles, which  serve  as  guides.  These 
guides  are  placed  in  the  races  of  the 
cloth  by  hand,  and  the  piece  is  cut  as 
it  is  drawn  forward  by  the  machine. 

The 

PRODUCTION   OF   A  DISC   CUTTER 

is  much  greater  than  that  of  a  blade 
cutter. 

The  disc  machine  effects  quite  a 
saving  in  cutting  corduroys,  these  fab- 
rics not  having  as  many  races  as  vel- 
veteens. 

Devices  for  cutting  the  pile  filling 
during  the  process  of  weaving  have 
been  tried,  but  have  not  met  with  suc- 
cess. One  objection  to  this  method  is 
that  the  goods  cannot  be  finished  sat- 
isfactorily, the  pile  pulling  out,  if  han- 
dled too  severely. 


BRILLIANTINE 

BrlUiantine  i&  a  dress  fabric,  re- 
sembling alpaca,  but  of  superior  qual- 
ity and  sometimes  finished  on  both 
sides.  Brilliantines  are  made  with  a, 
cotton  warp  and  luster  worsted  filling. 
Luster  wool  is  grown  in  Indiana  and 
Kentucky  and  is  commonly  known  in 
the  trade  as  braid  wool. 

Luster  wools  are  more  extensively 
grown  in  England.  The  best  qualities 
are  grown  in  Lincolnshire.  The  fibres 
of  Lincolnshire  luster  range  from  8  to 
12  inches  and  are  about  l-800th  of  an 
inch   in  diameter. 

The  wool  after  it  comes  from  the 
sheep  is  sorted  both  for  quality  and 
luster,  and  the  higher  the  degree  of 
luster  the  more  adaptable  it  is  for 
fancy  shades,  while  the  dull  or  semi- 
luster  is  only  used  for  dark  colors, 

Brilliantines  are  sometimes  woven 
with  undyed  weft  yarn  and  very  rarely 
if  ever  with  undyed  warp  yarn.    They 


are  commonly  made  with  both  warp 
and  weft  yarns  dyed  previous  to  weav- 
ing. The  warp  yarn  may  be  the  same 
color  as  weft  or  it  may  be  entirely 
different.  If,  however,  a  one-colored 
fabric  is  desired  and  it  is  to  be  made 
with  undyed  weft  yarn,  the  warp  yarn 
must  be  dyed,  previous  to  weaving,  the 
same  color  as  the  weft  will  be  dyec' 
after  the  fabric  is  woven.  The  warp 
bein?  cotton  will  not  take  color  in  ? 
wool  dya-bath. 


Fig.  1. 

Fig.  1  shows  sample  in  which  both 
warp  and  weft  are  dyed  previous  tr 
weaving.  The  warp  is  light  brown  and 
the  weft  is  a  medium  shade  of  green. 
This  contrast  of  colors  in  connection 
with  the  weave  gives  the  fabric 

A  VERY   PRETTY   EFFECT. 

Any  combination  of  colors  may  be 
used.  A  very  important  factor  to  con- 
sider in  making  brilliantines  is  the 
weave.  The  object  is  to  have  as  much 
weft  floating  on  the  face  of  the  fab- 
ric as  warp,  and  in  figured  brilliantines 
the  figure  must  in  all  cases  be  a  weff 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


499 


floating  figure.  The  reason  for  this  is 
obvious  when  a  lustrous  fabric  is  de- 
sired. 

The  design  m  Fig.  2,  of  which  two 
repeats  are  shown,  both  warp  way  and 
filling  way,  shows  the  filling  to   float 


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DB«BB  i1~l~'~"«~^^B"»>~~"»BB"~[2'"'"~n«nDCBBaa 
BB«-'~mr!B-'^B""l|-"""»«B'"-i~r-nB.^r'BHB«ca 

a«Bana^*^B"""««  --^'-■nmm-r^^-rm"  BBaBBDcn 
aBnG~n'~'B^BB'"»»T:]'^BBa~mcnB"BBPBBnDnB 
aJDODDB^BBBBBODGaaBcaaaGBZBBaaaaGaDV 

Fig.  2. 

on  the  face  of  the  fabric  in  exact  pro- 
portions to  the  float  of  warp. 

Very  pretty  effects  are  obtained  with 
a  plain  ground  weave  with  a  small 
jacquard  figure,  and  when  a  very  lus- 
trous fabric  is  wanted,  the  warp  yarn 
is  of  finer  counts  than  weft  yarn. 

ANALYSIS   OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed  ( without  sel- 
vage), 42 1^  Inches;  width  of  fabric 
finished,  40  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  60;  ends  per  inch  finished,  64; 
ends  in  warp  2,535 — light  brown;  60 
ends  selvage  white  (30  ends  each 
side),  equals  2,595. 

Reed  30  x  2  equals  60  ends. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving  6 
per  cent.  Weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
from  loom  5  ounces;  weight  of  fabric 
finished  practically  the  same. 

Body  of  warp  2-40s  cotton  dyed;  sel- 
vage 2-40s  cotton  undyed. 

Brilliantines,  m^ohairs  and  alpacas 
are  usually  made  with  different  color- 
ed selvage  yarn  than  the  body  of  warp. 

Filling  all  l-30s  luster  worsted,  of 
about  14-blood  stock. 


Fig.  3  shows  drawing-in  draft- 
drawn  in  on  18  harnesses  straight 
draw,  pattern  repeats  on  18  ends  and 
18  picks. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

For  small  figured  brilliantine  a 
dobby  loom  would  be  about  the  best. 
Large  figures  require  a  jacquard 
loom;  brilliantines  usually  require 
only  one  kind  of  filling,  consequently 
a  box  loom  is  not  necessary,  but  in 
order  to  keep  the  shade  of"  weft  as 
even  as  possible  when  using  dyed 
yarn,  two  shuttles  are  sometimes  used 
w^eaving  "pick  and  pick." 
FINISH. 

Brilliantines  made  with  undyed 
weft,  after  they  come  from  the  loom, 
are  first  scoured,  then  dyed;  afte:- 
which  they  are  run  through  a  rotary 
press,  of  -nhich  the  cylinder  has  from 
50  to  60  pounds  of  steam  heat.  Bril- 
liantines shrink  a  little  after  they 
come  from  the  loom.  The  pressure  to 
whicli  they  are  subjected  during  the 
finishing  process  stretches  them  out 
to  their  original  length.  Those  made 
with  dyed  yarns  are  usually  given  a 
dry  finish,  that  is,  they  are  simply  run 

BdacaDnnDtrrnnaCGca 
aaGGQaGGacGCCGGGcn 

QDBGGanGGGGGDLGGCg 

aacBGGnGccar  gqgggQ 
DGaaaaaGGDGGarGcca 
DaaaaBGDGGCGGccrGG 
naaaDaanaanGGGGGca 
DnaaDCDBGaGCGGaGDa 
DanDDGDnaGGGGGGcra 

DDnGnDaDGBGaGGCGr G 

□DanaDaaaaaDDGOGGa 
aDaannaaaacBGGDrca 
DDaDaanaaaGGBaGGca 
DDnaaaaaDGGcaacGca 

aaODDnDDGGGGGGB  GC 

naaDnnDDGOQcocc  aca 

DDDaDDDQCDCCaCGGBG 
QDDaBDDDDDDDaaDGCB 

Fig.    3. 

through  the  press,  cylinder  heated, 
after  which  they  are  rolled,  then 
packed. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

In  a  previous  article,  under  the 
heading  "Carding  and  Spinning  Par- 
ticulars," the  mills  were  subdivided 
into  three  divisions.  For  the  benefit 
of  readers,  we  will  repeat  how  they 
were  divided  for  use  in  these  articles. 
:\Iills  making  low  count  yarns  say 
from  Is  to  30s,  were  included  in  the 
first   division,   those   making   medium 


500 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


count  yarns,  or  from  30  to  70s,  were 
included  in  the  second,  and  the  third 
division  comprised  mills  making  yarns 
from  70s  up.  This  does  not  mean  that 
only  the  yarns  between  the  counts 
given  are  made  in  one  division,  but 
that  the  greater  portion  of  the  counts 
of  yarn  made  in  the  divisions  referred 
to  are  between  the  counts  given.    The 

COUNT  OF  COTTON  YARN 

used  for  brilliantine  for  this  article  is 
2-40s.  The  filling  yam  is  luster  wor- 
sted yarn,  and  therefore  we  will  only 
deal  with  the  cotton  warp  yarn.  This 
class  of  yarns  is  made  in  the  second 
division  of  mills,  the  cotton  used  be- 
ing of  a  medium  grade  and  having  a 
staple  of  about  1  3-16  inches.  The 
equipment  for  the  second  division  of 
mills  may  call  for  a  bale  breaker  or 
not.  We  will  consider  that  one  is  in- 
cluded. The  bales  of  cotton  are 
stapled  and  several  placed  around  and 
fed  to  the  bale  breaker  alternately 
from  each  bale  until  all  are  gone.  The 
bale  breaker  has  a  capacity  of  about 
80,000  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
The  cotton  is  carried  by  endless  mov- 
ing aprons  so  arranged  that  they  may 
be  moved  so  as  to  allow  the  cotton  to 
be  dropped  into  its  proper  bin.  The 
bins  should  be  as  large  as  possible  so 
as  to  allow 

A  LARGE  MIXING. 
At  this  point  the  sliver  waste  from  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock.  The  cut-roving 
waste  of  the  same  length  and  grade 
of  staple  is  not  mixed  at  this  place, 
but  has  to  go  through  ^  special  pick- 
ing machine,  which  takes  out  the 
twist,  then  it  is  put  through  a  picker 
and  made  into  a  lap,  after  which  it  is 
mixed  with  the  raw  stock,  as  will  be 
shown  later.  The  equipment  for  this 
division  may  include  two  or  three 
processes  of  pickers.  We  will  consid- 
er that  it  contains  an  opener  and  three 
processes  of  picking. 

THE  BEATER 
used  is  generally  of  the  porcupine  pat- 
tern and  the  speed  should  be  about 
1,000  revolutions  per  minute  for  this 
class  of  work.  The  opener  is  gener- 
ally attached  to  the  breaker  picker 
aad  after  passing  the  beater  of  the 


opener  the  cotton  is  passed  to  the  feed 
rolls  by  a  moving  endless  apron.  At 
this  point  the  cotton  is  in  an  open, 
fluffy  state.  The  feed  rolls  condense 
the  cotton,  as  it  passes  between  the 
rolls,  into  a  sheet,  and  in  this  state  it 
is  presented  to  the  beater  of  the 
breaker  picker.  This  beater  is  gener- 
ally of  a  rigid,  two-bladed  type,  and 
for  the  cotton  in  question  has  a  speed 
of  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
cotton  is  then  blown  onto  a  set  of 
cages  and  compressed  into  a  sheet, 
after  which  it  passes  through  several 
sets  of  calender  rolls  between  which 
it  is  further  pressed.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or 
about  16  ounces  to  the  yard.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  back  of  the  in- 
termediate picker  and 

DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE. 
The  speed  of  this  beater  is  about  1,- 
450  revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  37 
pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  It  is  at  this 
point  that  the  cut-roving  waste  before 
spoken  of  is  mixed  in  the  proportion 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap 
of  roving  or  bobbin  waste.  The  speed 
of  this  beater  is  about  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  which  gives  the  cot- 
ton passing  it  about  42  beats  or  blows 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  39 
pounds  or  about  a  14-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  then  taken  to  the  card,  the 
draft  of  which  for  this  class  of  work 
should  not  exceed  110.  The  fillet  on 
the  cylinder  should  be  of  No.  34  Amer- 
ican wire  or  110s  English  count  and 
on  the  doffer  and  top  flats  should  be 
No.  35  wire  or  120s  English  count. 
The  top  flats  should  make  one  com 
plete  revolution  every  45  minutes. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  stripped  (both  cylinder  and 
doffer)  three  times  a  day  and  ground 
at  least  once  a  month.  The  cards 
should  be  reset  after  every  grinding 
in  all  parts,  except  the  top  flats  to  the 
cylinder,  which  should  be  reset  at 
least  four  times  a  year.  The  weight 
of  sliver  at  the  delivery  end  of  the 
card  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard.   The  cotton  is  next  put  through 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


501 


three  processes  of  drawing  frames. 
Metallic  rolls  may  be  used  to  good  ad- 
vantage on  work  of  this  description, 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  at  each 
process  being  400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  frame  should  be  about 
70  grains.  The  cotton  is  next  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .55 
hank  roving. 

The  roving  is  then  put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES 

of  fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermedi- 
ate it  is  made  into  1.50  hank  roving, 
at  the  second  intermediate  into  3  hank 
and  at  the  jack  frame  into  9.  This 
roving  is  then  taken  to  the  ring  spin- 
ning room  and  spun  into  40s  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  23  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  Ig  inches;  length  of  trav- 
erse, 6l^  inches;  twist  per  inch,  28.- 
46;  revolutions  per  minute  of  spindles, 
10,000.  From  here  it  is  passed  to  the 
spooler  and  then  to  the  twister,  where 
it  is  twisted  into  2-40s,  and  then  back 
to  the  spooler.  From  here  it  goes  to 
the  warper  and  from  the  warper  the 
beams  are  put  up  at  the  slasher, 
where  it  is  sized,  and  then  it  is  ready 
for  the  weave  room. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

These  goods  are  dyed  in  the  piece 
if  solid  shades  are  wanted,  but  if  two- 
colored  fancies  are  made,  the  warp 
and  the  worsted  yarn  are  dyed  in  the 
yam,  woven  and  finished.  For  piece 
dyes  union  colors  are  used,  or  the 
wool  is  dyed  in  an  acid  bath,  rinsed 
and  the  pieces  are  cotton  dyed  cold. 

For  union  black,  5  per  cent  union 
black  A.,  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
Boil  until  wool  is  dyed,  and  run  with- 
out steam  until  cotton  is  dyed  up  to 
shade;  if  cotton  is  not  dark  enough 
add  some  cotton  black. 

The  union  fancy  colors  are  dyed  il 
the  same  way. 

Wool  yarn  dyeing.  For  100  pounds 
yam,  10  pounds  Glauber's  salt,  3 
pounds  sulphuric  acid.  Enter  pieces  at 
150  degrees,  bring  to  boil  and  boil  40 
minutes. 


LIGHT   SAGE  GREEN. 
IV4.    ounces   orange   II.;    IV^    ounces 
cyanole  BE.;  I  ounce  fast  yellow  S. 

MEDIUM   SAGE  GREEN. 
6  ounces   orange  II.;    2  ounces  fast 
yellow  S.;  1  pound  cyanole  BE. 

DARK  SAGE  GREEN. 
10  ounces  orange  II.;   3  ounces  fast 
yellow  S.;  1%  pounds  cyanole  BE. 

MEDIUM    OLIVE    GREEN. 
lYz  pounds  fast  yellow  S.;   6  ounces 
orange  II.;   1  pound  cyanole  BE. 

OLIVE   GREEN. 
2y2  pounds  fast  yellow  S.;   %  pound 
orange  II.;  lYz  pounds  cyanole  BE. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 

3  pounds  fast  green  bluish;  V^  pound 
fast  yellow  S.;  Vz  pound  formyl  violet 
S.  4E. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

2  pounds  indigo  blue  SGN.;  2  ounces 
formyl  violet  S.  4B. 

DARK   NAVY   BLUE. 

4  pounds  indigo  blue  SGN.;  Yi 
pound  orange  II.;  Vz  pound  formyl  vio- 
let S.  4B. 

SLATE. 
6   ounces   alizarine    blue   SAP.;     % 
ounce  orange  II.;  Vz  ounce  fast  yellow 
G. 

RED. 
4   pounds  fast  red   NS. ;     6    ounces 
orange  II. 

ROSE. 

3  pounds  rhodamine  B.;  1  pound 
rhodamine  5G. 

SCARLET. 
3  pounds  brilliant  scarlet  IR. 

BROWN. 
2y2  pounds  orange  II.;  V2  pound  fast 
green  bluish;   3  ounces  fast  acid  vio- 
let lOB.;  %  pound  fast  yellow  G. 

The  warps  are  dyed  in  the  chain 
dyeing  machine  with  fast  sulphur  col- 
ors if  possible.  For  100  pounds  warp: 

BLUE. 
8  pounds   immedial   indone   3E.;    16 
pounds    sodium    sulphide;     8     pounds 
glucose;  3  pounds  soda  ash;  15  pounds 
Glauber's. 


502 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SLATE. 

3  pounds  thion  black  G.;  3  pounds 
sodium  sulphide;  2  pounds  soda  ash; 
20  pounds  Glauber's. 

FAWN  DRAB. 

6  pounds  immedial  cutch  O. ;  6 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  2  pounds 
soda  ash;    20  pounds  Glauber's. 

GREEN. 

4  pounds  immedial  yellow  D. ;  4 
pounds  immedial  indone  3B.;  8  pounds 
sodium  sulphide;  2  pounds  soda  ash; 
30  pounds  Glauber's  salt. 

OLIVE. 

7  pounds  immedial  olive  3G. ;  2 
pounds  immedial  dark  green  B.;  10 
rounds  sodium  sulphide;  30  pounds 
Glauber's  salt;    3   pounds  soda  ash. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
10   pounds  immedial   dark  blue   B.; 
10  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  30  pounds 
Glauber's  salt;    3  pounds  soda  ash. 

The  fancy  shades  can  also  be  dyed 
with  one-dip  salt  colors  and  tannine 
basic  colors. 

*-•-• 


CALICO 


A  calico  may  be  defined  as  a  cotton 
cloth  with  a  figured  design  printed  on 
one  side;  generally  speaking,  any 
printed  cloth  coarser  than  muslin, 
used  principally  for  inexpensive 
dresses,  such  as  shirtwaists,  wrap- 
pers, and  so  on. 

The  majority  of  inexpensive  cotton 
fabrics  are  constructed  on  the  one-up, 
one-down  system,  or  plain  weave.  Cal- 
ico is  no  exception  to  the  rule.  Its 
ornamentation,  however,  is  given  it 
after  the  cloth  comes  from  the  loom. 
As  mentioned  above,  calico  is  a  print- 
ed cloth, 

THE  PRINTING 

being  effected  by  means  of  a  printing 
machine,  which  may  be  described  as 
an  elaborate  machine  with  a  rotating 
impression  cylinder,  on  which  the  de- 
sign has  been  stamped,  or  cut.  The 
cloth,  in  passing  through  the  machine, 
comes  in  contact  with  the  impression 
cylinder.  The  cylinder,  revolving  in  a 
color  trough,  takes  up  the  color  and 
leaves   the  impression  of  the  design 


on  the  cloth.  Calicoes  may  be  seen  In 
almost  any  color.  The  printing  ma- 
chine is  capable  of  printing  several 

COLORS 

in  one  design.  Calicoes,  however,  are 
usually  in  but  two  colors,  that  is,  one 
color  for  ground  and  one  for  the  fig- 
ure. 

The  method  of  placing  the  color 
upon  the  fabric  depends  a  good  deal 
upon  the  kind  of  a  pattern  which  is 
to  be  made,  and  the  results  desired. 
In  some  instances  the  figure  is  printed 
upon  the  cloth  in  a  kind  of  resist,  and 
then  the  fabric  is  taken  and  piece 
dyed.   Wherever  the  resist  figures  are 


Fig.  1. 

printed  the  color  does  not  take  and 
the  figures  show  on  a  solid  colored 
ground.  Whenever  the  ground  of  the 
fabric  is  largely  white  the  figures  are 
printed  in  various  colors  as  desired. 
There  are  a  few  instances  where  the 
fabric  is  dyed  first  and  then  a  printed 
pattern  applied  afterward,  though  this 
is  not  so  common  a  practice  as  the 
ones  previously  mentioned.  The  de- 
velopment of  so  many  new  colors  and 
the  variation  in  the  method  of  apply- 
ing them  has  made  many  new  proc- 
esses possible  in  printed  fabrics,  and 
it  often  happens  that  results  are  se- 
cured through  more  than  one  method. 
The  printed  designs  on  calicoes  may 
be  somewhat  elaborate  or  they  may 
be  some  simple  geometrical  figures.  In 
order,  however,  to  comply  with  the 
true  principles  of  art,  such  fabrics  as 
calicoes  should  have  but  simple  geo- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


m 


liietrical  figures  for  their  ornamental 
features. 

Fig.  1  shows  a  sample  of  calico,  with 
a  printed  geometrical  figure,  the  sim- 
plicity of  which  is  in  harmony  with 
the  structure  of  the  fabric. 

We  may  here  mention  that  with  all 
machine  repeating  designs  the  figures 
must  be  laid  out  in  conformity  with 
the  dimensions  of  the  printing  roll. 
For  instance,  say,  the  printing  roll 
measures  six  inches  in  circumference, 
and  the  design  which  we  wish  to  print 
is  but  two  inches  in  its  vertical  re- 
peat, in  order  to  have  perfect  repeti- 
tion we  must  have  three  repeats  of  the 
design  stamped  on  the  impression  roll. 

The  circumference  of  the  printing 
roll  will,  therefore,  control  the  size 
and  proportion  of  the  -design.  The  de- 
sign must  be  so  adjusted  that  the  re- 
peat will  occur  with  the  utmost  ac- 
curacy. 

Calicoes  are  made  in  comparatively 
narrow  widths.   The  one  under  discus- 
sion is  but  231/^  inches,  finished. 
ANALYSIS  OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  25i/^  inches; 
width   of   fabric   finished,    24    inches; 

Design. 

DBaBGBCa 
■  ^■□■:3BG 

I  ■-■GaDB 

HDBDBnBn 
nBnBDBDB 
BnBGBC'Ba 
nBGBQBr  a 

unmauamu 

Fig.  2. 
Drawing-in-draft 

DnGDCDBQ 

Dona^BO  I 

DGGDBDLn 

nam  ana 

DOBDnDOQ 
DBjn    DD   J 

maacaaaa 
Fig.  3. 

ends  in  finished  cloth  per  inch,  72; 
ends  in  warp,  1,700;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  66  2-3;    1,200  x  2  reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  7 
per  cent;  weight  df  fabric,  per  yard, 
from  loom,  2  ounces;  weight  of  fabric 
finished,  2  ounces;  warp  all  l-30s 
carded  peeler. 

Filling:  52  picks  per  inch  in  loom; 
52  picks  per  inch  finished. 

Count  l-30s   carded  peeler. 

The  automatic  loom  would  be  the 
most  economical  loom  to  use  for  cali- 
coes and  similar  fabrics.   The  warp  Is 


usually  sized,  in  order  to  strengthen 
the  yarn.  In  the  sizing  process  about 
10  or  15  per  cent  of  weight  of  sizing 
material  is  added  to  the  yarn,  which 
consists  chiefly  of  wheat  flour  or  po- 
tato starch. 

FINISHING. 

The  cloth,  after  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  is  sent  to  the  dyehouse.  The 
first  process  is  to  boil  it  off,  after 
which  it  is  bleached.  When  the  fabric 
is  bleached  it  is  usually  printed.  It 
may  or  may  not  be  piece  dyed  after- 
ward. The  method  of  finishing  or  set- 
ting the  color  depends  a  good  deal  upon 
the  kind  of  color  used.  It  may  be  said, 
however,  that  the  colors  are  much 
faster  than  they  formerly  were  and  for 
their  purposes  are  usually  satisfac- 
tory. Calicoes  are  given  what  may  be 
termed  a  "cheap  cotton  dye."  By 
"cheap  cotton  dye"  is  meant  that  the 
colors  are  not  fast,  but  will  run  or  fade 
somewhat. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  make  up  calico  may 
be  made  in  either  the  first  or  second 
division  of  mills,  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  The  counts  of  the  yarns 
used  for  the  particular  fabric  for  this 
article  are  l-30s,  both  warp  and  filling, 
and  these  are  made  out  of  1  1-16 
inches  staple  American  cotton.  After 
being  sampled,  several  bales  art 
placed  around  the  bale  breaker,  and 
fed  to  this  machine,  a  little  from  each 
bale.    By  doing  this  a 

MORE  EVEN  YARN 
is  apt  to  be  obtained.  After  passing 
through  the  bale  breaker  the  cotton  is 
conveyed  either  by  endless  lattices  or 
blower  and  trunking  to  the  cotton 
bins.  As  large  a  mixing  as  possible 
should  be  made  at  one  time.  The  raw 
stock  for  this  fabric  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing. The  opener  is  never  allowed  to 
become  less  than  half  full  when  ma- 
chine is  running,  for  reasons  given  in 
previous  articles.  The  beater  of  this 
machine  runs  at  a  speed  of  about  90) 
revolutions  per  minute.  After  passing 
through  this  machine,  which  is  gener- 
ally connected  directly  with  the  break- 
er picker,  either  by  trunking  or  by  an 


604 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


endless  lattice,  the  cotton  comes  un- 
der the  action  of  the  feed  rolls  of  the 
breaker  picker,  which  compress  it  into 
a  sheet,  and  it  is  in  this  form  that  it 
is  presented  to  the  beater.  For  this 
class  of  work  a 

TWO-BLADED  BEATER 
is  used  and  the  speed  of  the  beater  at 
this  machine  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at 
the  front  end  is  40  pounds,  or  about  a 
16-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
for  this  machine  is  about  1,350  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  lap  at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  12 
ounces  to  the  yard.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  finisher  picker,  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  It  is  at  this  point  that 
the  cut-roving  waste  is  mixed  in  with 
the  raw  stock  in  the  proportion  of 
three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of 
roving  waste.  It  is  understood  that 
the  bobbin  waste  has  to  go  through  a 
special  process  before  being  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  for  this  machine  is  about  the 
same  as  that  of  the  intermediate  pick- 
er, 1,350  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
gives  the  cotton  passing  under  its  ac- 
tion about  42  beats  per  inch.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  is  35 
pounds  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  then  taken  to  the  card  room,  as 
needed,  and  put  up  at 

THE  CARD. 
This  card  should  have  a  draft  not  ex- 
ceeding 100.  The  cylinder  fillet  for 
this  class  of  work  should  be  composed 
of  No.  33  or  100s  English  count  wire, 
and  the  doffer  fillet  and  that  of  the 
top  combs  of  No.  34  wire  or  110s  Eng- 
lish count.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
is  300  revolutions  per  minute,  and  the 
top  flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes.  The  cards  should  be 
stripped  three  times  a  day,  and  ground 
at  least  once  every  month,  ant  set  at 
the  time  of  grinding.  Keep  parts  at 
the  front  of  card  cleaned  of  all  fly  and 
collect  the  fly  from  the  flats  before 
it  accumulates  and  falls  over  the 
doffer  or  goes  up  under  the  flat  comb 
and  gets  onto  the  flats.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be  65 
grains  per  yard,  the  production  about 


750  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  From 
the  card   the   sliver  is  put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES   OF  DRAWING. 

At  these  machines  the  doubling  is  six 
into  one.  The  draft  at  the  different 
processes  is  as  follows:  Breaker,  4.50; 
intermediate,  7;  finisher,  7.20.  The 
setting  of  the  rolls  is  as  follows:  Dis- 
tance between  front  and  second,  l^^ 
inches;  between  second  and  third,  li 
inches;  third  and  back,  1%  inches.  The 
front  roll  makes  400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  is  72  grains  per  yard. 
The  drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the 
slubber  where  it  is  drawn  into  .60  hank 
Toving.  Set  rolls  as  follows:  front  to 
second,  1^/4  inches;  second  to  back,  IVz 
inches. 

The  slubber  roving  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames  at  the  first 
intermediate.  The  hank  roving  is  2.25 
hank  and  at  the  next  process  it  is 
drawn  into  6.  hank.  The  lays  per 
inch  of  the  roving  on  the  bobbin  at 
this  machine  are  33.  Look  out  for  the 
top  rolls  to  see  that  they  are  always 
in  the  best  of  condition.  From  the 
jack  frame   the   roving  is   taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM 

where  it  is  spun  into  30s  yarn.  The 
particulars  for  a  warp  frame  are  as 
follows:  Gauge  of  frame,  2S  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  11  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  6l^;  speed  of  spindle,  9,800 
revolutions  per  minute;  twist  per 
inch,  26.02.  The  yarn  is  then  taken  to 
the  spooler  and  then  to  the  warper. 
From  the  warper  the  beams  are  put 
through  the  slasher.  A  good  sizing  to 
be  used  for  this  fabric  is  as  follows: 
Water,  100  gallons;  cornstarch,  50 
pounds;  tallow,  three  pounds;  turpen- 
tine, one  gill.  Boil  LO  minutes  if  the 
cloth  is  woven  on  a  common  loom.  If 
woven  on  an  automatic  loom  use  of 
water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  50 
pounds;  tallow,  three  pounds;  tur- 
pentine, one  gill.    Boil  30  minutes. 

The  filling  yarn  (30s)  is  made  on  a 
frame  fitted  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
frame,  25  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
11  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6 
inches;  speed  of  spindles,  8,300  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  twist  per  inch. 
19.16. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


505 


Printing    Particulars. 

Many  of  the  designs  for  calicoes  and 
cotton  cloth  printing  are  made  in 
Paris,  which  has  been  the  headquar- 
ters for  many  years  of  new  styles  and 
fashions. 

The  design  is  taken  by  the  sketch 
maker,  and  drawn  to  scale,  so  that 
the  engraver  can  apply  it  to  the  cop- 
per roller.  Formerly  all  the  printing 
was  by  hand  (block)  printing.  Now 
machines  are  made  to  print  from  one 
to  24  colors. 

A  12-color  machine  is  the  largest 
generally  used,  but  there  are  a  few 
24-color  printing  machines  in  Europe. 
Each  color  has  a  separate  roller  and 
the  engraver  has  to  make  the  pattern 
fit  on  every  roller,  so  that  when  the 
piece  is  printed  the  design  is  not 
spoiled  and  the  colors  mixed  up. 

Few  realize  the  accuracy  which  has 
to  be  observed  in  joining  the  various 
patterns  so  as  to  produce  a  complete 
whole.  When  a  floral  pattern  is  be- 
ing produced,  the  various  colors  must 
join  accurately;  that  is,  a  yellow  flow- 
er must  be  joined  to  a  green  stem  or 
some  such  method.  The  green  stem 
cannot  be  joined  to  the  flower  except 
In  one  place  and  have  it  satisfactory. 
To  those  who  are  familiar  with  the 
subject  there  are  quite  often  intricate 
patterns  noted  where  the  colors  do 
not  join  accurately;  that  is,  there  will 
be  a  little  streak  of  white  between 
two  colors  where  they  should  meet  ex- 
actly and  leave  no  space  between.  This 
is  seldom  the  result  of  inaccurately 
made  patterns,  but  rather  is  the  re- 
sult of  the  copper  rollers  being  inac- 
curately   spaced. 

ENGRAVING  THE  ROLLERS 

is  done  by  hand  or  machine,  by  the 
pantograph   or  the  die  machine. 

The  printing  machine  turns  out 
about  400  to  800  50-yard  pieces  a  day. 
There  have  been  times  where  1,000 
50-yard  pieces  have  been  run  in  12 
aours,  a  one-color  pattern,  but  for 
some  designs  and  cloths  only  250 
pieces  are  run  in  a  day. 

The  pieces  are  singed  and  bleached, 
then  sheared  and  brushed  to  take 
away  all  lint  from  the  face  of  the 
piece. 


The  pieces  are  printed,  dried,  and 
steamed  to  fix  the  color,  afterward 
soaped  and  washed,  then  finished  and 
folded,  and  made  up,  ready  for  the 
market,  being  generally  packed  in  20- 
piece  lots,  to  be  shipped  to  any  point 
of  the  compass.    There  are 

MANY  STYLES 
of  calico  printing.  At  present  the 
steam  styles  are  most  prominent.  The 
colors  are  the  fastest  and  brightest  to 
be  obtained.  The  most  important 
styles  will  now  be  considered.  First 
in  the  list  are  alizarine  colors,  of  al- 
most every  hue  and  shade,  reds,  pinks, 
purples,  browns,  blues,  yellows, 
oranges,  etc.  Alizarines  are  fixed  oa 
the  fibre  by  chrome  mordants. 

BLUE. 
Three  pounds  alizarine  blue  S. 
paste,  20  per  cent;  one  gallon  starch 
thickening;  three  pounds  acetate 
chrome,  20  degrees  Tw.  After  print- 
ing, the  pieces  are  steamed  for  one 
hour,  four  pounds  steam  pressure,  then 
soaped  and  washed. 

BASIC  COLORS 
are  good  bright,  fast  colors  fixed  with 
tannine:  10  ounces  auramine,  1^^ 
pints  of  water,  1%  pints  of  acetic  acid, 
10  degrees  Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water, 
1x1;  2^4  pints  acetic  acid  tannic  acid 
solution,  1x1.  Steam  and  run  through 
a  bath  of  tartar  emetic;  wash  and 
dry.  The  basic  colors  are  very  bright, 
and  consist  of  every  shade  in  the  rain- 
bow. 

Extracts  of  various  dyewoods  are 
still  used  for  some  styles,  fixed  with 
chrome  or  elumina. 

PIGMENT  STYLES 
are  fixed  with  albumen  as  vermilion 
red,  chrome  green,  ultramarine  blue, 
etc.  Indigo  blue  is  dyed,  then  dis- 
charged white,  yellow,  orange  and 
other  colors  are  printed  on  the  dyed 
pieces.  Aniline  black  is  an  important 
style  with  many  resist  colors  printed 
first,  the  black  padded  afterward  and 
oxidized.    This  is  extensively  used. 

Patterns  are  printed  on  the  cloth 
with  mordants  of  iron  and  alum.  The 
cloth  is  then  aged  and  dunged,  dyed 
with  alizarine,  and  the  old  madder 
styles  produced,  which  were  in  such 


60t> 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


demand  50  years  ago.  Then  there  are 
Turkey-red  styles,  with  discharge 
white,  yellow,  blue,  green,  black  on  red 
ground;  discharge  white  and  colors 
on  blues,  browns,  wines,  etc.  Indigo 
blues  are  dyed  in  the  vat  with  a  large 
proportion  of  synthetic  indigo  and  dis- 
charges printed  on.  There  is  also  di- 
rect indigo  printing  with  the  glucose 
process. 

New  styles  and  combinations  of  col- 
ors are  produced  every  month  and 
faster  and  brighter  colors  printed 
each  season. 


PERCALE 

Percale  may  be  defined  as  a  closely 
woven  fabric,  made  with  a  good  qual- 
ity of  cotton  yarn.  Percale  is  of  French 
origin  and  was  originally  made  with 
linen  yarn,  hence  the  name,  as  it  is 


ivi 

•  0  • 

•  0  • 

loj 

^  •  0 

io! 

.  0  . 

■  A  a 

A       .      A 

Fig.    1. 

sometimes  called  French  cambric. 

The  finer  qualities  of  percale  are 
used  for  hankerchiefs,  aprons,  etc. 
When  used  for  these  purposes  they 
are  not  printed,  but  bleached,  after  the 
fabrics  come  from  the  loom. 


Percale,  however,  is  chiefly  used  for 
dress  fabrics,  such  as  shirt-waist  suits 
for  spring  and  summer  wear,  and  as 
such,  is  quite  common. 

Percale,  when  intended,  for  dress 
fabrics,  is  usually  printed  on  one  side 
with  some  neat  geometrical  figure. 
The  printed  figure  is  usually  in  black, 
although  some  may  be  seen  in  red  or 
blue.  The  fabric  is  bleached  before 
it  is  subjected  to  the  printing  opera- 
tion. 

A  CHARACTERISTIC  FEATURE 
of  percale  is  the  lack  of  gloss,  or  its 
dull  finish,  due  to  the  fact  that  it  is 
not  subjected  to  any  pressure  during 
the  finishing  process.  Percales  may 
also  be  described  as  plain  wo.ven  fab- 
rics with  a  printed  design  on  one 
side. 

The  color  used  for  the  printed  fig- 
ures is  quite  durable,  in  so  far  that  it 

[^■□■□■nBnBrDBOBnB 
■3»n«nBnHGBDHDgn 

DBUBZlBnBDBrjBDBOB 

B^BnaGBaBCBrBaBD 

DB^BTanBTB:  BOBOB 
BnBlBtlBDBnBr-BDBG 
DBnBGBTanBDBDPDB 
BGllBGBDBDBnBDBa 

aBGBa*nBaB'"BDBnB 
BnBGBGanBCBDBnBa 

I  MGadBTMnBDBfJBDB 
BGBGBGBnBDBDBCBa 
DBaBGBnBC-BDBDBaB 

BGBaBnBnBnBnBDBn 


IDBDI 


Fig.  2. 
Weave. 


□DaBDDDBnnaBDDOB 
DDBDDDBDDDBDDaBQ 
aBDDDBQDDBaDDBDa 

■DaaBDDDBDDDBaaa 


Fig.  3. 
4    Repeats. 


will  not  readily  fade  and  will  wear 
almost  as  long  and  well  as  the  fabric. 

The  printed  designs  on  percales  are 
usually  plain  but  neat  geometrical  fig- 
ures. The  polka  dot  pattern  is  quite 
common.  It  produces  a  very  neat  ef- 
fect, especially  when  dots  are  in  black. 
Striped  designs  are  also  very  common. 
Some  very  neat  effects  may  be  ob- 
tained when  using  a  stripe  in  connec- 
tion with  some  simple  geometrical 
figure. 

Fig.  1  shows  on  an  enlarged  scale  a 
design  for  a  stripe  percale.  The  stripes 
as  a  rule  run  in  the  direction  of 
the  warp.     Stripes  running  vertically 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


607 


tend  to  increase  the  appearance  of 
height,  while  stripes  running  horizon- 
tally tend  to  decrease  the  impression 
of  height;  for  this  reason  short  per- 
sons are  advised  to  select  dress  goods 
with  the  stripe  running  vertically. 

Percale,  like  most  cotton  fabrics,  is 
made  in  several  qualities,  as  regards 
counts  of  yarn  used,  and  the  number 
of  ends  and  picks  per  inch.  We  will 
here  give  an  analysis  of  a  good  grade: 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38 1^  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch,  finished,  85;  ends  in 
body  of  warp,  3,080;  20  ends  for  sel- 
vage; total  ends,  3,100. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving  6 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
from  loom,  3i^   ounces. 

Finished  weight,  3^^  ounces  per 
yard;  warp,  all  l-30s  carded  peeler; 
reed,  1,400x2. 

Filling,  all  l-36s  combed  peeler,  74 
picks  per  inch  in  loom;  74  picks  per 
inch,  finished. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Percale,  like  most  cotton  fabrics,  is 
woven  on  looms  with  high  running 
speed.  Percales  are  plain  woven  fab- 
rics, consequently  no  dobby  is  requir- 
ed. The  automatic  loom  would  be 
the  most  economical  loom  to  use  in  the 
manufacture  of  percale,  or  if  an  auto- 
matic loom  is  not  available  use  any 
plain  weaving  loom  and  draw  warp 
straight  on  4  harness.  Considerable 
care  should  be  exercised  in  the  weav- 
ing. No  broken  picks  should  be  al- 
lowed to  pass,  as  they  will  show  quite 
distinctly  in  the  finished  fabric. 
FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  comes  from  the 
loom  it  is  sent  to  the  bleach  house, 
where  it  is  first  boiled  off.  Then  it  is 
bleached.  After  the  bleaching  process 
the  fabric  is  ready  for  the  printer. 
After  the  printing  operation  the  fab- 
ric is  slightly  stiffened,  by  being  pass- 
ed through  a  size  trough.  The  size 
used  for  stiffening  is  usually  corn, 
wheat,  rice,  barley,  potato  or  farina. 
Any  of  these  will  give  the  desired  ef- 
fect. 

The  fabric  passes  from  the  sizing 
trough  onto  the  drying  cylinders,  after 


which   it   is   folded;    then  it  is   ready 
for  shipment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  of  which  percale 
is  composed  are  made  in  mills  of  the 
second  division.  The  counts  of  yarn 
vary  according  to  the  quality  of  the 
cloth.  In  this  lesson  we  will  consider 
the  count  of  the  filling  yarn  to  be  36s 
and  the  warp  yarn  to  be  30s.  The  yarn 
is  carded  peeler  of  1  l-16th  inches 
staple.  The  cotton  is  brought  from  the 
storehouse  and  sampled,  and  all  bales 
of  the  same  length  and  grade  of  staple 
are  placed  around  the  bale  breaker. 
The  cotton  is  fed  from  each  bale  alter- 
nately to  the  breaker.  From  the 
breaker  it  is  conveyed  automatically 
to  the  so-called  mixing  bins,  either 
by  endless  lattices  or  a  blower  and 
trunking,  or  a  combination  of  both. 
The  latter  method  is  the  better  one, 
because  it 

HELPS   TO   DRY   OUT 

the  cotton  better.  At  the  mixing  bins 
the  sliver  waste  from  all  the  machines 
up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in.  The 
sliver  waste  should  not  be  thrown  in 
in  long  lengths,  but  should  be  broken 
into  short  lengths,  so  that  it  will  not 
become  wound  around  the  pin  roller 
of  the  hopper.  The  raw  stock  is  next 
put  through  a  hopper  and  either  two 
or  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
hopper  should  be  kept  well  filled  so  as 
to  insure  a  uniform  amount  of  cotton 
always  being  delivered  to  the  pin  roll- 
er. This  machine  is  generally  provided 
with  a  porcupine  beater.  The  cotton  Is 
delivered  onto  an  endless  lattice, 
which  carries  it  to  the  feed  rolls  of 
the  picker.  These  feed  rolls  compress 
it  and  present  it  to  the  beater.  This 
beater  is  generally  of  the  rigid  type, 
having  two  or  three  arms,  generally 
two. 

SPEED  OF  BEATER. 

This  beater  has  a  speed  of  1,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  if  of  a  two-blad- 
ed type,  or  1,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute if  it  has  three  arms.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  the 
breaker  picker  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.    These  laps  are  put  up  at 


608 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


"Jie  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
t  into  1.  The  speed  of  this  beater  is 
about  1,450  revolutions  per  minute  for 
a  two-bladed,  or  975  revolutions  per 
minute  for  a  three-bladed  beater.  The 
total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  is  37 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  (per  yard)  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  At  this 
picker  the  cut-roving  waste  of  the 
same  length  of  staple  and  cotton  is 
mixed  in  in  the  proportion  of  3  laps 
of  raw  stock  to  1  lap  of  cut  waste.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  for  the  machine 
is  1,200  revolutions  per  minute  for  a 
two-bladed,  or  800  revolutions  per 
minute  for  a  three-bladed  beater  of  a 
rigid  type.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap 
at  the  front  is  35  pounds  or  a  12 1^- 
ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one-half 
pound  from  standard  total  weight  of 
lap  is  allowed  at  this  picker.  All  laps 
weighing  over  35 1/^  pounds  or  under 
341^  pounds  should  be  run  over  again. 
The  laps  are  taken  to 

THE  CARDS, 

where  the  draft  should  not  exceed  100 
for  this  class  of  goods.  The  speed  of 
the  various  parts  is  as  follows:  Lick- 
er-in,  300  revolutions  per  minute;  cyl- 
inder, 160  revolutions  per  minute; 
doffer  (24  inch),  9^^  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  top  flats  have  one  revo- 
lution every  45  minutes.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be 
about  65  grains,  and  the  production 
about  600  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
of  the  finisher  drawing  frame  is  60 
grains  per  yard.  The  speed  of  the 
front  roll  is  350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. This  sliver  is  next  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .65  hank 
roving.  This  is  next  put  through  three 
processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hanks  at  the  different  processes 
being  as  follows:  First,  1.80;  second, 
5.50.  There  is  quite  a  little  variation 
in  the  sizes  of  the  roving  used  for  any 
size  of  yarn.  For  any  cheap  fabric, 
such  as  percale,  it  is  the  general  prac- 
tice to  use  as  long  drafts  as  possible 
and  get  out  the  largest  production  of 
which  a  machine  is  capable.  It  used 
to  be  a  practice  to  use  single  roving 


for  yarns  such  as  are  noted  in  this 
cloth,  but  the  use  of  automatic  looms 
and  the  fact  that  better  results  are 
secured  through  the  use  of  stronger 
yarns  has  now  caused  a  much  greater 
amount  of  double  roving  on  the  spin- 
ning frame  to  be  used.  From  here 
the  roving  is  taken  to  either  the  mule 
room  or  the  ring  spinning  room.  We 
will  consider  that  it  is  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room,  where  the  frame 
for  spinning  36s  would  be  as  follows: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  11/4;  length  of  traverse,  5; 
twist  per  inch,  27.96;  revolutions  per 
minute  of  spindles,  7,400.  After  the 
spinning  frame  the  yarn  is  carried 
to  the  weave  room. 

The  sliver  for  warp  yarn  after  leav- 
ing the   card   is   put   through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard,  the 
revolutions  per  minute  of  the  front  roll 
being  350.  This  is  put  up  at  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .50  hank  roving, 
after  which  the  roving  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  being  as  follows:  1st, 
1.80,  and  2d,  5.50.  The  roving  is  tak- 
en to  the  spinning  room  and  spun  into 
30s  yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  follow- 
ing particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring.  If  inches, 
length  of  traverse,  GVz  inches;  twist 
per  inch,  26.02;  revolutions  per  min- 
ute of  spindles,  9,800.  The  yarn  is 
next  taken  to  the  spooler,  then  to  the 
warper,  and  from  here  to  the  slasher. 

Bleaching  and  Finishing  Particulars. 

Percales  are  very  carefully  handled 
in  the  finishing  process. 

The  goods  are  bleached  in  a  kier 
with  4  degrees  caustic  soda,  washed 
and  boiled  with  another  process  of  4 
degrees  caustic  soda,  washed  and 
chemicked  at  i^  degree  Tw.  for  six  to 
eight  hours,  being  laid  in  bins.  Then 
they  are  scoured  with  %  degree  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  well  washed  and 
dried.  Some  finishers  place  each  piece 
in  the  kiers  separately,  and  also  in 
chemic  tubs  and  scouring  bins,  for  if 
sewed  in  long  lengths  and  run 
through   the    machinery    in    the    rope 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


609 


form  the  pieces  are  dragged  and  the 
threads  are  not  straight  across  the 
piece.  Spots  and  small  figures  are 
printed  on  the  goods  in  navy  blue, 
brown,  black,  green  and  other  colors. 

DARK  NAVY. 
Eight  ounces  new  fast  blue  F. ;  2 
ounces  methyl  violet  3  R.;  IVi  pints 
water;  IVz  pints  acetic  acid  10  degrees 
Tw.;  7  pints  thickening;  8  noggins 
acetic   acid   and   tannic   acid    (1-1). 

DARK  ROSE. 

Four  and  one-half  ounces  rhodamine 
5  G. ;  3  pints  acetic  acid  10  degrees 
Tw. ;  5  pints  water;  3%  pints  mucilage 
tragacanth  (70-1,000);  4  noggins 
acetic  tannic  solution  (1-1). 

IMPERIAL  PURPLE. 

F\3ur  ounces  methyl  violet  4  R.;  3 
pints  acetic  acid  10  degrees  Tw.;  3 
pints  mucilage  of  tragacanth  (70- 
1,000);  5  pints  water;  2  noggins  acetic 
tannic  solution  (1-1). 

GREEN. 

Four    ounces    malachite   green;    1% 
pints   acetic   acid   10   degrees   Tw.;    5 
pints  gum  water  (1-1) ;  4  noggins  ace- 
tic  tannic   acid    (1-1);    2   pints   water 
GRAY. 

Two  ounces  new  fast  gray;  5  pints 
mucilage  of  tragacanth  (70-1,000);  3 
pints  albumen  water  (1-1) ;  3  pints 
water. 

The  above  colors  are  steamed  for 
one  hour  with  five  pounds  steam.  They 
are  run  through  a  solution  of  tartar 
emetic,  2  ounces  to  gallon,  soaped  and 
rinsed,  then  dried. 

STARCHING. 

Six  to  eight  ounces  white  German 
dextrine,  1  gallon  water.  Mix  cold 
and  boil  for  20  minutes.  After  starch- 
ing, dry  on  a  tenter  frame. 


PERCALINE 

Percaline,  like  percale,  is  a  plain 
woven  fabric  made  with  a  good  quality 
of  single  cotton  yarn  for  both  warp 
and  filling.  The  similarity  extends  no 
further;  the  difference  between  the 
two  fabrics  lies  chiefly  in  the  weight 
and  finish. 


Percaline  is  a  lighter  fabric  and 
has  a  very  glossy  finish,  or,  more 
properly  speaking,  a  moory  finish  per- 
caline is  usually  dyed  in  solid  colors. 
Percale,  on  the  other  hand,  is  a 
bleached  cloth  with  a  dull  finish  and 
usually  with  a  printed  design  on  one 
side. 

Percaline  is  used  chiefly  for  fem- 
inine wearing  apparel,  principally  for 
linings,  petticoats,  etc.  These  purposes 
require  that  the  cloth  shall  be  of  solid 
color,  the  darker  colors  being  prefer- 
red, such  as  dark  blues,  dark  green 
and  black,  which  have  the  greatest 
sale.  It  may,  however,  also  be  seen 
in  lighter  shades,  such  as  a  medium 
blue,  a  light  shade  of  brown  and  va- 
rious  shades  of  tan. 

Percaline,  as  mentioned  above,  is  a 
plain  woven,   single-yarn  fabric.    The 

WARP   YARN  IS    SIZED 

in  order  to  facilitate  the  weaving.  A 
fabric  like  percaline  requires  very  lit- 
tle detail  work,  as  far  as  the  design- 
ing is  concerned.  The  most  attention 
is  given  to  the  finishing  process.  In 
order  to  get  a  good  glossy  finish  a 
certain  number  of  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  are  required. 

It  is  important,  in  laying  out  the 
ends  and  picks  per  inch,  that  the  de- 


B 

naaBDana 
■□■DBoaa 
□■aaoBDB 
BnanBOBCi 

DBDBDBDB 
BOBaBOBD 

nBaBDBaa 

BDBOBaBa 

Fig.  1. 
>  Chain 


A 

DHBB 
BBGD 
DHBB 
BBDO 
DOBB 
BBDD 
DDKB 

Baaa 
Fig.  1. 

Drafts 


B  A 

DDDnnnnB 

DDnnDDBD 

DnDDDBDD  nnoBDoni 
DDonBDDn  DBnanBDC 

DDDBaDDD    DGBDDDBC 

naBaDDDa  bdddbddc 

DBanDDDD 
BDDDaDDa 

Fig.  2.        Fig.  2. 
Drawing-in  Drafts. 


signer  bear  in  mind  that  unless  suf- 
ficient yarn  is  used,  the  fabric  will 
not  acquire  the  desired  effect  in  the 
finishing. 

This  glossy  or  moory  finish  is  quite 
a  characteristic  feature  in  a  perca- 
line. The  more  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  used,  the  more  gloss  the  fabric 
will  possess  when  flnished. 

ANALYSIS. 

"Width  of  warp  in  reed,  37.5;  width 
of  fabric  finished,  36;  ends  per  inch, 
84;  ends  in  warp,  3,050;  1,400  x  2, 
reed. 


510 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  7 
per  cent;  weiglit  of  cloth  per  yard 
trom  loom,  2.5  ounces;  weight  of  cloth 
per  yard  finished,  3  ounces;  warp 
yarn,  l-30s   combed  peeler. 

Filling,  1-40S,  84  picks  per  inch 
from  loom. 

Picks  per  inch   finished,   84. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Percaline  is  woven  in  the  gray  on 
high  running  speed  looms  with  four 
or  eight  harnesses.  When  four  har- 
nesses are  used,  the  warp  is  generally 
drawn  in  the  following  order:  1,  3,  2, 
4.  (See  Fig.  2A.)  When  eight  har- 
nesses are  used,  it  is  drawn  straight. 
(See  Fig.  2B.)  Fig.  lA.:  design  for 
skip  draw  four  harnesses.  Fig.  IB: 
design  for  eight  harnesses  straight 
draw. 

The  automatic  loom  would  be  about 
the  best  loom  to  use,  principally  on 
account  of  production  obtained  with 
these  looms  per  weaver. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  process  will  include 
from  the  time  the  cloth  comes  from 
the  loom  until  it  is  ready  for  use. 

The  first  process  to  which  the  cloth 
is  subjected  is  to  boil  it  off,  that  is, 
by  soaking  it  in  boiling  water;  this 
process  partially  relieves  it  from  any 
foreign  matter  that  it  may  have  gath- 
ered during  the  weaving  and  at  the 
same  time  prepares  it  for  the  bleach- 
ing process.   It  is  then  dyed. 

After  the  fabric  is  dyed,  it  is  sized 
In  order  to  stiffen  it  and  also  heighten 
the  gloss  on  the  cloth. 

After  the  sizing,  it  is  ready  for  the 
calender.  In  order  to  still  more  add 
to  the  gloss  on  the  face  of  the  fabric, 
the  cloth  is  usually  doubled  length- 
wise, or  sometimes  two  pieces  are 
placed  together,  back  to  back,  and  run 
through  the  calender  at  the  same  time. 
Before  the  cloth  reaches  the  calender 
rolls  it  passes  between  two  perforat- 
ed steam  pipes,  which  wet  the  cloth 
considerably,  then  between  the  rolls 
of  the  calender,  which  are  well  heat- 
ed and  tightly  set  together.  The 
above-mentioned  processes  produce 
what  is  termed  a  moory  finish. 


The  cloth  after  it  comes  from  the 
calender  is  lapped  on  small  boards, 
after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  market. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  carding  and  spinning  particu- 
lars applicable  to  the  manufacture  of 
percale,  given  in  the  last  article,  may 
be  followed  also  with  reference  to  per- 
caline, with  a  few  minor  changes: 
Thus  the  count  of  the  filling  yarn  is 
to  be  40s,  instead  of  36s.  The  filling 
and  warp  yarns  are  both  carded  peel- 
er, and  the  cut  roving  is  put  through 
a  special  process  that  takes  out  the 
twist  and  delivers  it  in  a  fluffy  state. 
This  is  then  put  through  a  picker, 
which  forms  it  into  a  lap,  and  these 
laps  are  dealt  with  as  before  describ- 
ed. All  laps  weighing  over  35 1/^ 
pounds  or  under  34 1^  pounds  should 
be  run  through  the  finisher  picker 
again,  being  mixed  in  with  the  other 
laps  in  the  proportion  of  one  re-run 
lap  to  three  regular  laps.  This  is  done 
so  that  the  weight  will  not  vary  from 
the  standard.  At  the  cards  a  26  or  27 
inch  doffer  should  be  used  if  possible, 
the  larger  the  better,  and  the  produc- 
tion should  be  650  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  The  sliver  for  both  the  warp 
and  filling  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  and  the  roving 
to  make  the  warp  yarn  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames.  The  follow- 
ing size  mixing  may  be  used  at  the 
slasher:  Water,  100  gallons;  corn- 
starch, 50  pounds;  tallow,  three 
pounds;  turpentine,  one  gill;  boil 
three  minutes.  The  slubber  roving  for 
filling  yarn  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames.  We  will  consider 
that  it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room,  where  the  frame  for  spinning 
40s  would  be  as  follows: 

Gauge  of  frame,  2|  inches,  diameter 
of  ring,  11  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
51^  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  8,800; 
twist  per  inch,  23.72. 

After  being  spun,  the  filling  yarn 
is  treated  so  that  it  is  delivered  to 
the  weave  room  in  a  moist  state.  This 
is  accomplished  by  different  methods 
in  different  mills,  some  using  a  steam 
chest,  while  others  simply  immerse 
the  filling  in  water  just  before  it  is 
carried  to  the  weave  room. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


511 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
PEARL. 
One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  '  dark 
blue  B. ;   10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent   sal  soda. 

LIGHT  TAN. 
One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  fast 
yellow  B.;  %  per  cent  diamine  brown 
G. ;  1-16  per  cent  diamine  black  BH. ; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo  brown 
R.;   1/4  per  cent  tetrazo  yellow  M.;   % 
per  cent  tetrazo  black  N.;  10  per  cent 
Glauber's;    2  per   cent   sal  soda. 
LIGHT   BLUE. 
One-eighth    per    cent    diamine     sky 
blue  FF.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

LILAC. 
One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo   chlo- 
rine lilac  B.;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2 
per  cent  sal   soda. 

ROSE. 
One-quarter   per  cent  tetrazo   chlo- 
rine rose;    10   per   cent    Glauber's;    1 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

MEDIUM   BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.; 
1  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;    V^  per 
cent  diamine  black  BH.;    20  per  cent 
Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ROYAL  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  tetrazo  brilliant  blue 
BB.;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal   soda. 

PINK. 
One-quarter   per   cent   tetrazo   pink 
GGN.;    20   per  cent   Glauber's;    1    per 
cent  sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  blue  B. ;  3  per 
cent  diamine  black  BH. ;    30  per  cent 
Glauber's;    2   per   cent   sal   soda. 
DARK  GREEN. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  green  B.;    1 
per  cent  diamine  black   HW.;    30   per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
DARK   BROWN. 
Two   per   cent   diamine   fast   yellow 
B.;   3  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;    i^ 


per   cent   diamine   black  BH. ;    30   per 
cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
WINE. 
Three    per    cent    diamine    Bordeaux 
B.;   30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 
Fifteen  per  cent  immedial  brilliant 
black;   15  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  t> 
per  cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

■*-»-¥■ 

BEDFORD  CORD 

Bedford  cord  is  a  name  given  to  one 
of  the  most  popular  types  of  fabrics, 
the  distinguishing  effect  of  which  is  a 
line  stripe  and  raised  cord  effect  run- 
ning lengthwise  of  the  cloth,  the  cords 
being  of  more  or  less  prominence. 

Figs.  1,  3  and  6  show  examples. 

They  are  a  standard  type  and  are 
made  in  a  large  variety  of  weights. 
The  cords  vary  in  width  from  about 
l-20th   to    14    inch.    Although    usually 


Fig.    1. 

made  with  cotton,  the  name  refers  to 
the  weave  rather  than  to  a  combina- 
tion of  weave  and  material.  Sample 
for  Fig.  3  is  a  worsted  bedford  cord. 

The  face  effect  of  bedford  cords  is 
generally  plain,  although  twill  face 
cords  are  occasionally   made. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  plain  faced  bed- 
ford   cord,    made    with    weave    Fig.    2. 


612 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


This  is  the  simplest  type  of  bedford 
cord  weave,  but  is  not  used  to  any 
extent  on  account  of  some  of  the 
picks,  A  and  B,  bringing  widely  dif- 
fering proportions  of  warp  and  filling 
on  the  face  from  picks  C  and  D,  mak- 
ing it  hard  on  a  loom. 


Fig.  3  illustrates  a  sample  made  with      pick. 


The  advisability  of  using  this  type 
of  weave  in  preference  to  that  shown 
in  Fig.  2  is  in  the  fact  that  it  allows 
the  ends  ol  one  cord  to  be  raised  out 
of  the  way,  while  the  other  is  weav- 
ing plain,  and  the  loom  is  allowed  to 
raise  the  same  number  of  ends  on  each 


Dsamau 

mamamc 

□£■■■■ 


Figr.  2. 


DsaBaanBDaaaDSHManBBaa 
eaaaaaaaDaDaasDaaaBBaaaaa 

□SBBBBaBaBBBDSDBQBDBaBaa 

saaaaaaaaaaafflDaDaaaDaaaa 
Fig.   4. 


DmanaaQaanaanaasaGaDDaDDaDDa 
ffiDaQaaQaaQBaQasaaaDaDDaaaaaa 
DsanaaaaDaaaaaaEBBaaanaaQaaQa 
suaDUBaaBGOBaaffiLiaaaaQBBQBBBB 

Fig.  6. 


Fig.  4.  This  shows  practically  the 
same  effect  as  Fig.  1,  but  has  been 
made  with  an  easier  weave. 

Figs.  4  and  5  will  serve  to  show  the 
two  principal  forms  of  construction 
of  bedford  cords. 

Fig.  4  is  complete  on  24  ends  and  4 
picks.  One  repeat  of  this  weave 
makes  two  ribs  or  cords  in  Fig.  3.  The 


Fig.  3. 

line  or  cut  effect  is  formed  by  ends  1 
and  2,  and  13  and  14,  shown  in  type,  ^a 
These  ends  weave  plain  throughout 
and  have  twice  as  many  interlacings 
as  the  other  ends  in  each  repeat. 

The  remainder  of  the  ends  weave 
plain  on  one-half  of  the  picks  only, 
and  are  then  raised  out  of  the  way 
and  the  filling  allowed  to  float  under 
them  for  the  other  two  picks,  the 
cords  alternating  so  that  when  one 
rib  is  weaving  plain,  the  same  pick  of 
filling  is  floating  under  the  next  one. 
The  plain  picks  of  the  succeeding  re- 
peat slide  over  and  cover  these  long 
floats  of  filling,  making  the  face  ef- 
fect plain  and  yet  striped. 


As  every  two  picks  of  filling  inter- 
lace only  with  the  ends  of  every  alter- 
nate rib,  and  float  at  the  back  of  the 
next  one,  solid  lines  of  color  length- 
wise of  the  piece  may  be  made  by  ar- 
ranging the  warp  yarns  of  one  rib  of 
one  color  and  those  of  the  other  rib  of 
a  different  color,  and  picking  the  flU- 
ing  2  and  2,  so  that  each  color  inter- 
laces only  with  the  same  color  of 
warp.  A  variety  of  colored  stripes 
may  be  made  by  combining  the  types 
Figs.  2  and  4,  varying  the  number  and 
sizes  of  sections  as  desired. 

To  get  extra  weight  without  altering 
the  appearance  of  the  face,  extra  warp 
yarns,   termed   wadding  ends,  are   in- 


Fig.  6. 

serted  between  the  face  weave  and  the 
filling  floating  at  the  back  of  the  rib. 
When  these  wadding  ends  are  coarse, 
they  give  a  pronounced  rounded  ap- 
pearance to  the  cord,  more  so  than  if 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


513 


several  ends  of  finer  yarns  are  used. 
"Wadding  ends  are  generally  coarser 
than  the  face  ends. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  the  type  of  weave 
used  when  a  bedford  cord  is  required 
with  a  fine  face  and  a  heavy  weight, 
or  where  a  well-rounded  cord  is  de- 


ffiGBUBBBDBJDBBBGBaBBS'aaDaBaGau.aBBaBrBB 

a>i^GaaaGaGBa.«LBGaaaG«L.aGBaaGaGaaaGB:La 

SGBa^aaGaaBGBGaaBGSGBGaGBBBGBGBBiiGaa 
DSaaGaGaaBGaGBBBQaaSBBGaGBBBGaGBBaDB 
aGBGBaBBBGBaaBBGaGSGBBBGBaBBaDBaaBBa 

Fig.  7. 

sired.  Ends  shown  with  type  a  are 
wadding  ends.  These  are  always  rais- 
ed when  the  filling  is  floating  at  the 
back  of  the  cord  and  depressed  when 
the  filling  is  interweaving  with  the 
face  ends. 

Fig.  6  illustrates  a  bedford  cord  with 
a  twill  weave  on  the  face.  The  twill 


quired  per  inch.  They  are  usually  wo- 
ven with  a  coarse  reed  in  a  fairly 
heavy  single  box  loom.  One  warp  only 
is  required  unless  the  counts  of  the 
wadding   and   face    yarns   differ. 

The  question  of  dividing  the  two 
cuttings  ends  with  the  reed  or  of  put- 
ting them  in  the  same  dent  depends 
upon  the  effect  desired  and  the  qual- 
ity of  the  fabric.  The  stripes  may  be 
varied  in  width  as  desired,  or  the 
sizes  of  the  different  ribs  in  one  pat- 
tern   may   vary  within   certain   limits. 

The  construction  of  samples  for 
Figs.   1,   3  and   6   are  as  follows: 

For  Fig.  1,  96  sley,  88  pick;  for  Fig. 
3,  116  sley,  108  pick;  for  Fig.  6,  220 
sley,    156   pick. 

No.  6  contains  132  face  ends  and  88 
wadding  ends  per  inch,  making  a  to- 
tal of  220. 


a-5a«GGGa~a:  aa 

m "BGaGGGBGC^B 

BDBBsaaaaaHi^. 


JGGGDGGGBG  BaGGGGa 

jaGGnnaaQaaaDGGaGaaaGGBGD 
SHr-F'Hn-isiaaBBinaBiaEnBBnQBaa 

iBaaaGGaaaBacBaaGGGaGDBaaBaa 

-□Hsi'BsaGaBBGDBGUGDDDGBaGQBDDaDDDnBBB 


Fig.  8. 


runs  to  the  right  in  one  rib  and  to  the 
left  in  the  next  one,  making  a  herring- 
bone effect.  Fig.  7  shows  the  face 
weave  for  Fig.  6,  ends  1  and  2  and  19 
and  20  being  the  cutting  ends. 

The  weave  for  this  particular  sam- 
ple has  been  made  on  the  principle 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  but  weave  Fig.  8 
would  be  preferable.  In  this  figure 
type  •:'.  indicate  cutting  ends;  a  wad- 
ding ends;  m  and  solid  black  type  face 
cord  ends;  solid  type  and  ►!<  show  th-^ 
face  weave.  The  wadding  ends  would 
be  drawn  2  in  each  heddle.  There  are 
12  of  these  in  each  rib. 

The  cutting  ends  in  Fig.  6  might 
have  been  arranged  to  work  2  and  2. 
instead  of  plain,  because  of  the  large 
number  cf  picks  per  inch  and  the  rel- 
ative amount  of  interlacing  of  the  oth- 
er ends.  When  the  face  weave  is  plain, 
two  plain  ends  should  separate  the 
ribs. 

Bedford  cords  are  firm  fabrics, 
somewhat  heavy  on  account  of  the 
large  number  of  ends  and  picks  re- 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  machinery  for  the  manufacture 
of  bedford  cord  will  be  found  in  the 
second  and  third  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  There  are 
generally  three  counts  of  yarn  used 
for  each  piece  of  cloth,  one  for  filling, 
one  for  the  warp,  and  one  for  the 
cords.  These  counts  vary  according  to 
the  quality  of  the  fabric  being  made, 
generally  several  different  qualities 
being  made  under  one  management. 
The  counts  of  yarn  which  will  be  con- 
sidered in  this  article  as  composing 
the  cloth  will  be  number  40s  for  warp, 
number  60s  for  filling  and  number  20s 
for  the  cord  or  wadding  ends.  These 
counts  are  made  up  of  a  good  quality 
of  cotton  of  about  11  to  IV^  inch  sta- 
ple. At  the  mixing  bins  the  waste 
sliver  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in  as 
collected,  which  should  be  done  at  reg- 
ular intervals  during  the  day.  The  one 
in  charge  of  the  picker  room  should 
see  that  too  much  waste  is  not  being 
made  and  also  that  the  sliver  is  well 


514 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


torn  to  pieces  before  being  put  into 
the  mixing.  A  good  way  to  clieck  how 
much  waste  is  being  made  is  to  have 
the  picker  man  weigh  it  as  it  comes  in 
and  at  the  end  of  every  week  give  his 
list  to  the  overseer.  In  this  way  the 
overseer  may  be  sure  that  he  is  get- 
ting a  correct  list  of  the  amount  of 
waste  being  made  and  can  act  accord- 
ingly. The  raw  stock  is  put  through 
either  two  or  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing, 

TWO   PROCESSES    OF   PICKING 

being  generally  used,  although  the 
particulars  for  three  processes  will  be 
given  here.  The  raw  stock  is  fed  to 
the  hopper  and  from  here  passes  under 
a  beater,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute.  From  herei  it 
is  conveyed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the 
breaker  picker,  in  a  fluffy  state,  by  an 
endless  lattice.  The  feed  rolls  con- 
dense it  and  present  the  sheet  of  cot- 
ton to  the  action  of  the  beater,  which 
is  generally  of  the  rigid  type,  having 
either  two  or  three  arms.  If  a  two- 
armed  beater  is  used,  the  speed  should 
be  about  1,500  revolutions  per  minute 
and  if  a  three-bladed  beater,  the  speed 
should  be  proportionately  less.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
should  be  about  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  are  put  up  at  the 
intermediate  picker  and  doubled  4  into 
1.  The  speed  of  this  beater  should  be 
about  1,400  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
being  35  pounds  or  a  1414-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the 

CUT-ROVING  WASTE 
is  mixed  in,  it  having  first  been  made 
Into  a  lap  after  passing  through  a  spe- 
cial process,  in  the  proportion  of  one 
lap  roving  waste  to  three  laps  raw 
stock.  The  speed  of  this  beater,  if  of  a 
two-bladed  rigid  type,  should  be  about 
1,350  revolutions  per  minute,  which 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through  it 
about  40  beats  per  inch.  The  total 
weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  shoulcl 
be  about  35  pounds  or  a  12% -ounce 
lap.  A  variation  of  half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  is  allowed.  Laps  with 
a  variation  of  more  than  the   above 


should  be  treated  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card,  the  draft  of  which  should  not 
be  less  than  100.  The  speed  of  the 
top  flats  should  be  one  complete  revo 
lution  every  45  minutes.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  of  medium  fine- 
ness, about  number  110  for  cylinder 
and  number  120  for  the  doffer  and  tor 
flats. 

THE  WEIGHT  OF  SLIVER 

at  the  front  should  weigh  65  grains 
per  yard,  the  production  for  the  40s 
and  60s  yarn  being  650  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours,  and  for  the  20s  yarr 
750  pounds  per  week.  This  sliver  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  draw- 
ing, six  ends  up,  the  revolutions  per 
minute  of  the  front  roll  being  400  at 
the  finisher  drawing.  The  weight  at 
the  finisher  drawing  should  be  70 
grains  per  yard.  The  drawing  should 
be  sized  three  times  a  day,  and  if  the 
variation  is  more  than  one  grain  per 
yard,  the  draft  gear  should  be  chang- 
ed to  keep  the  drawing  at  standard 
weight.  The  drawing  sliver  is  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .50 
hank  roving. 

FLY  FRAMES. 

The  roving  for  40s  and  60s  yarn  is 
run  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames  and  for  20s  is  run  through  two 
processes.  For  60s  yarn  the  different 
hanks  at  each  process  are  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  1.50;  second,  4; 
jack,  12  hank.  For  40s  yarn  the  de- 
tails are  as  follows:  First  1.40;  second, 
3.40;  jack,  8.  For  20s  yarn:  First,  1.50; 
second  4.50.  The  warp  yarns  are 
frame  spun  and  for  40s  use  a  frame 
the  same  as  given  in  a  previous  les- 
son. For  20s  use  a  frame  having  a 
gauge  of  2|  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  2 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  7  inches. 

The  filling  yarn  may  be  either  mule 
or  ring  spun;  if  the  latter  use  a  frame 
having  a  gauge  of  2%  inches;  a  diam- 
eter of  ring,  If  inches;  length  of  tra- 
verse, 51/^  inches;  revolutions  per  min- 
I'te  of  spindles,  8,000.  The  warp  yam 
is  put  through  the  spooler,  warper  and 
slashing  machines  and  then  is  ready 
for   the   loom. 

A  great  many  mills  comb  their  fill- 
ing for  weaving  bedford  cords. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


615 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

SLATE. 

Two  per  cent  immedial  black  NB.; 

2  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 

soda  ash;   20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

PEARL. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  direct 
blue  B.;  %  per  cent  immedial  black 
NB.;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2 
per  cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O. ;  5 
per  cent  immedial  brown  RR. ;  %  per 
cent  immedial  black  NB.;  9  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BLACK. 
Fifteen    per    cent    immedial    black 
NN. ;    15  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;    3 
per  cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  dark  green 
B. ;    1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D.;    9 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.; 
4  per  cent  immedial  indone  R. ;   8  per 
cent    sodium    sulphide;     3     per    cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 
Six  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4B.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One  per  cent  erika  pink;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
SKY  BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  tetrazo  sky  blue  F.;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;   30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

IMPERIAL  PURPLE. 
On  a  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant.    Dye   2    per  cent   methyl   violet 
2  R. 


CHINTZ 


Chintz  is  a  fine,  soft,  cotton  fabric, 
printed  with  elaborate  designs  of  flow- 


ers and  foliage  in  several  colors.  The 
fabric  is  used  principally  for  house- 
hold purposes  such  as  lambrequins, 
coverings,  etc.  It  is  also  utilized  for 
such  purposes  as  masquerade  dresses 
and    the  like. 

Chintz  is  but  a  plain  woven  fabric, 
elaborately  ornamented  with  designs 
by  means  of  the  printing  machine, 
several  different  colors  being  employ- 
ed. From  this  point  of  view  we  will 
consider  the  fabric. 

There  is  practically  no  combination 
of  colors  that  may  not  be  used  for  the 
ornamentation  of  a  fabric  of  this  de- 
scription. However,  the  high-colored 
designs  are  most  popular.  Following 
are 

POINTS    TO   CONSIDER 

in  planning  a  design  for  chintz,  also 
colors  to  use.  In  the  first  place  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  clear  idea  of  what 
the  main  characteristics  of  the  design 
are  to  be,  before  the  work  of  arrange 
ment  is  begun.  The  character  of  the 
design  should  be  influenced  largely  by 
the  purposes  the  fabric  is  intended 
for;  this  brings  in  the  question  of  fit- 
ness, which  is  the  application  of  a  cer- 
tain class  of  design  to  certain  materi- 
als. It  is  evident  that  the  style  of  de- 
sign that  would  be  suitable  for  a  floor 
covering  would  be  entirely  unsuitable 
for  a  printed  cotton  fabric.  The  con- 
sideration of  style  is  a  subject  that  the 
designer  is  bound  to  be  governed  by, 
simply  because  the  designs  are  for  a 
commercial  purpose;  consequently  in 
planning  a  design,  the  style,  scale  and 
character  of  the  design,  the  material 
it  is  to  be  applied  to,  and  its  purposes 
should  be  understood  by  the  designer. 
Chintz   is 

A  PURELY  ORNAMENTAL  FABRIC. 

They,  therefore,  may  be  rich, 
both  in  colors  and  design.  In  Figure  1 
we  give  an  idea  of  the  character  of 
design  used  for  fabrics  of  this  descrip- 
tion. The  ground  may  be  a  light  shade 
of  blue,  the  leaves  and  stems  in  two 
shades  of  green,  while  the  flowers 
may  have  three  shades  of  red  grad- 
uating from  pink  to  dark  red;  a  hap- 
py blending  of  color  is  essential  to 
the  well-being  of  a  design. 


516 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ANALYSIS. 

Inches. 

Width   of  warp   in   reed 36  Vi 

Width   of  fabric   finished 35 Vi 

Ends    per    inch     finished 72 

Ends    in    warp    2,556 

Selvage     24 

Total   ends   in   warp 2,580 

Heed    1,250x2 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  5  per 
cent;  weight  of  fabric  finished,  1^  ounces 
per    yard. 

Warp    yarn    1-44    cotton. 

Filling   56   picks — 1-80   cotton. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Chintz  is  usually  woven  on  high  run- 
ning speed  looms.  The  warp  is  drawn 
in  on  eight  harnesses.  The  warp  yarn 
is  well  sized  so  as  to  avoid  breakages 
of  the  warp  in  the  weaving. 

FINISHING. 

The  fabric,  after  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  is  sent  to  the  printing  house, 
where  it  is  boiled  off  and  bleached 
preparatory  to  the  printing  operation; 
chintz  is  not  dyed;  all  the  colors  are 
applied  by  means  of  the  color  rolls  in 
the  printing  machine.  Several  rolls  are 
required,  each  roll  having  a  separate 
portion  of  the  design  and  likewise  a 
separate  color. 

After    the    printing,    the    fabric     is 
passed  through  a  calender  press,  the 
rolls    of    which    are   well   heated    and 
tightly  set,  which  gives  the  glazed  fin 
ish  which  the  fabric  possesses. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  chintz  is  com- 
posed are  made  in  mills  having  the 
second  division  equipment  of  ma- 
chinery. The  yarns  which  make  up 
the  sample  under  description  are  as 
follows:  filling  yarn  No.  80s  and  warp 
yarn  44s.  The  filling  yarn  is  made  of 
good  cotton  of  11 -inch  staple.  This 
is  put  through  a  bale  breaker,  as  has 
been  previously  described.  Either  two 
or  three  processes  of  picking  may  be 
used,  many  overseers  claiming  the 
two-process  method  to  be  the  better. 

The  raw  stock,  after  being  allowed 
to  stand  in  the  mixing  bin  as  long  as 
possible  to  dry  out,  is  put  into  the 
hopper  of  the  opener,  and  after  being 
lifted  up  by  the  spiked  apron  comes  in 
time  under  the  action  of  the  beater. 
This  beater  is  provided  with  four 
arms,   the  blades   of  which   are   com- 


posed of  leather.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  for  this  kind  of  stock  is  1,000 
revolutions  per  minute. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 

is  then  passed  to  the  breaker  picker 
by  an  endless  lattice.  This  lattice 
should  be  varnished  frequently  so  as 
to  make  it  smooth.  This  not  only  ap- 
plies to  this  lattice,  but  to  all  lattices 
in  the  picker  room.  The  feed  rolls  of 
this  machine  compress  the  cotton  into 
a  condensed  sheet  and  it  is  struck 
irom  these  rolls  by  a  beater.  This  is 
generally  of  a  rigid  type,  having  either 
two  or  three  arms;  if  of  two-blade 
type  it  makes  about  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  laps  at  the  head  end 
weigh  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  interme- 
diate and  doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed 
of  this  beater  is  about  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  the  total  weight  of 
the  lap  baing  37  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
L  p.  Ihese  laps  are  put  up  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  It  is 
at  this  point  that  the  cut  roving  is 
mi.xed  in,  as  has  been  described  in  a 
previous  article.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1,350  revolutions  per  minute 
if  of  a  rigid  two-bladed  type;  if  the 
beater  has  three  blades  it  rotates  pro- 
portionately slower.  The  total  weight 
of  a  lap  at  the  front  is  39  pounds  or  a 
12-ounce    lap. 

THE  EVENNESS  OF  WORK. 

Look  out  to  see  that  the  eveners  on 
all  the  pickers  are  in  proper  working 
order,  for  remember  the  greater  part 
of  the  evenness  of  a  lap  depends  upon 
this  part  of  the  picker.  See  that  the 
drafts  are  properly  directed  and  of  the 
right  strength  to  do  the  most  good. 
Keep  the  fly  well  cleaned  out  from 
under  the  machines  and  don't  be  afraid 
of  oil,  but  get  it  in  the  proper  place. 
Be  sure  and  have  everything  neat  and 
clean.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card.  It  has  always  been  a  bone  of 
contention  whether  it  is  proper  to  use 
a  heavy  lap  and  slow  speed  or  light 
carding  and  higher  speed.  Heavy 
carding  means  low  drafts,  and  light 
carding,  so-called,  high  drafts.  For 
this  lesson  light-weight  carding  will  be 
used.  The  draft  of  the  card  should 
be  115,  which  gives  a  45-grain  sliver. 


A  cot  TON  J'ABRICS  GLOSSAAV 


517 


518 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  speed  of  the  flats  should  be  one 
complete  revolution  every  40  minutes. 
The  speed  of  the  licker  is  350  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  Strip  three  times 
daily  and  clean  thoroughly  twice  a 
day.  Keep  front  of  card  free  from  fly 
waste  all  the  time.  The  production  of 
the  card  for  a  week  of  60  hours  is  550 
pounds.    This  is  put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 

the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finish- 
er being  60  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  top  rolls  of  a 
drawing  frame  should  always  be  kept 
well  varnished,  the  leather  being  free 
from  flutes,  ridges,  nicks;  in  fact,  they 
should  be  in  perfect  shape.  The  draw- 
ing sliver  is  next  put  up  at  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .55  hank  roving. 
This  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each 
process  being  as  follows:  First,  1.50 
hank;  second,  4. 80. hank;  fine  or  jack, 
16  hank.  This  roving  may  be  taken 
to  either  the  mule  or  ring  spinning 
room.  If  to  the  latter,  use  a  frame 
having  the  following  particulars  for 
spinning  80s  yarn:  Gauge  of  frame, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  li/4; 
length  of  traverse,  5  inches;  revolu- 
tions per  minute  of  spindles,  7,400; 
twist   per  inch,   29.07.     The 

YARN  AFTER  BEING  TREATED 
in  some  manner  to  make  it  damp,  is 
carried  to  the  weave  room.  What  has 
been  said  of  the  cotton  for  the  filling 
yarn  may  also  apply  to  the  warp  yarn 
with  the  following  exceptions:  In  the 
picker  room,  length  of  staple,  11 
inches;  weight  of  lap  at  finisher  pick- 
er, 40  pounds.  In  card  room  at  the 
cards,  draft  not  over  105;  speed  of 
flats,  one  revolution  in  50  minutes. 
Production  675  to  700  pounds,  at  draw- 
ing frame,  weight  of  sliver,  70  grains 
per  yard;  at  slubber  a  .50  hank  rov- 
ing, which  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  the  hank  at  each 
being  as  follows:  First,  1.50  hank; 
second.  4  hank;  fine,  10  hank.  This  is 
carried  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
made  into  40s  yarn  on  a  frame  with 
the  following  particulars:  Gauge  of 
frame,  22  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  IVz 
inches;    length  of  traverse,  6  inches; 


revolutions  per  minute  of  spindles,  10,- 
000;  twist  per  inch,  29.65.  The  yarn 
is  then  spooled,  beam  warped,  and 
these  are  run  through  the  slasher, 
where  the  requisite  number  of  ends 
is  run  on  a  warp  beam  at  the  head 
end.  A  good  size  mixing  is  as  fol- 
lows: Water,  100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  54  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2 
pounds;  soap  (white),  l^^  pounds; 
paraflBne  wax  about  1  pound. 

Printing    Particulars. 

The  colors  for  this  style  of  goods  axe 
mostly   light,   bright   shades. 
LIGHT   BLUE. 

Two  ounces  methyl  blue  B.;  1  pint 
acetic  acid,  10  degrees  Tw.;  2  pints 
water;  6  pints  gum  water,  1  :  1;  J 
pint  acetic  acid  tannic  acid  solution, 
1  :  1. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

One  and  one-half  ounces  brilliant 
green  crystals;  1  pint  acetic  acid,  10 
degrees  Tw.;  2  pints  water;  5  pints 
gum  water,  1  :  1 ;  i^  pint  acetic  acid 
tannic  acid  solution,  1  :  1. 
LIGHT  PINK. 

One  and  one-half  ounces  rhodamine 
5  G.;  3  pints  water;  1%  pints  acetic 
acid,  6  degrees  Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth 
solution,  70-1,000;  i/^  pint  acetic  acid 
tannine  solution,  1  :  1. 
RED. 

Six  ounces  rhoduline  red  B. ;  2  pints 
water;  1^/^  pints  acetic  acid,  10  de- 
grees Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water,  1:1; 
iy2  pints  acetic'  acid  tannine  solution 

1  :    1. 

LIGHT   MAUVE. 

One-half  ounce  methyl  violet  6  B.; 

2  pints  water;  li/^  pints  acetic  acid. 
10  degrees  Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water, 
1  :  1;  1/4  pint  acetic  acid  tannine  so- 
lution, 1    :   1. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 
Six  and  one-half  ounces  Victoria 
blue  B. ;  1%  pints  acetic  acid,  10  de- 
grees Tw.;  21/^  pints  water;  6  pints 
gum  water,  1  :  1;  1%  pints  acetic  acid 
tannine  solution,  1  :  1. 

LIGHT   YELLOW. 
Five  ounces  duramine  II.;   li  pints 
acetic  acid,  10  degrees  Tw.;  1^/4  pints 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


519 


water;  6  pints  gum  water;  1:1;  1^ 
pints  acetic  and  tannine  solution 
1  :  1. 

ROSE. 

Four  ounces  rhodamine  6  G.;  4^^ 
pints  water;  3  pints  acetic  acid;  9 
degrees  Tw. ;  314  pints  tragacanth  so- 
lution, 70-1,000;  1  pint  acetic  acid  tan- 
nine solution,  1  :  1. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Six  ounces  Bismarck  brown  G. ;  2 
pints  acetic  acid,  10  degrees  Tw.;  ^ 
pint  glycerine,  45  degrees  Tw.;  2% 
pints  water;  6  pints  gum  water,  1:1; 
1  pint  acetic  acid  tannine  solution, 
1  :  1. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 

One  pint  of  the  light  yellow  color;  ] 
pint  of  light  brown  color;  14  pint  light 
green  color;  well  mixed  and  strained 
through  a  cloth.  With  different  pro- 
portions of  these  colors  any  shade  can 
be  obtained. 

These  colors  are  well  mixed  in  a 
tub  or  copper  pan,  strained  through  a 
cloth,  and  printed  in  a  printing  ma- 
chine. The  pieces  are  dried,  steamed 
one  hour,  without  pressure,  passed 
through  a  bath  of  tartar  emetic,  soap- 
ed at  90  degrees  F.,  washed  and  dried. 

The  pieces  are  then  run  through  a 
starch  mangle  and  starched,  then  cal- 
endered to  finish  required. 


ORGANDIE  (Plain  and  Figored) 

An  organdie  may  be  defined  as  a 
very  fine  translucent  muslin,  used  ex- 
clusively for  dress  goods. 

The  fabric  is  made  in  a  variety  of 
qualities  as  regards  the  counts  of 
yarns  used.  This  naturally  influenceb 
the  number  of  ends  and  picks  per  inch 
in  the  fabric.  The  fabric  is  also  made 
in  a  variety  of  widths,  ranging  from  18 
to    60    inches. 

The  fabric,  as  already  mentioned,  is 
used  exclusively  for  dress  goods.  The 
plain  organdie  is  very  popular  in  pure 
white  or  bleached,  although  considera- 
ble quantities  are  dyed  in  solid  colors 
of  light  shades,  such  as  pale  blue  and 
various  pinks,  while  the  figured  organ- 
die is  usually  bleached,  then  printed 
with  small  floral  designs.    The  printed 


design  is  usually  in  from  two  to  four 
colors  and  in  delicate  shades  in  con- 
formity with  the  material. 

The  design  itself  is  also  quite  deli- 
cate. 

In  a  design  for  a  fabric  of  this  char- 
acter, the  scale  of  the  pattern  should 
not  be  too  large.  It  should  not  ex- 
ceed 4^^  inches  in  the  repeating  of  it, 
as  the  folds  of  the  dress  and  the  nu- 
merous seams  would  destroy  the  effect 
of  the  repeat  if  it  were  much  larger. 

The  accompanying  sketch  shows  a 
design  for  the  fabric  in  question;   the 


design  shows  a  rose  spray  rendered  in 
a  natural  manner.  A  color  scheme  for 
the  same  would  be  to  have  the  flowers 
pink  or  yellow,  while  the  leaves  and 
stems  may  be  in  green;  this  against  a 
white  ground  should  give  a  pleasing 
effect.  A  delicate  design  and  color 
scheme  are  essential  for  this  kind  of 
fabric.  Organdie,  considered  in  rela- 
tion to  cost,  as  a  wearing  material  is 
quite  an  expensive  fabric;  however, 
the  retail  price  apparently  seems  to 
disprove  this  fact.  Our  reason  for 
the  statement  that  the  fabric  is  not  an 
inexpensive  material  is  that  it  has  a 


520 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


finish  peculiar  to  itself,  so  that  when 
subjected  to  soap  and  water  it  will 
not  have  the  same  appearance  as  be- 
fore. It  loses  its  crisp  feeling  entirely; 
consequently  an  organdie  is  worn  by 
many  until  soiled,  then  discarded, 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  32  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished.  30i^  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  76;  ends  in 
warp,  2,440;  ends  per  inch  finished,  80. 

Reed,    1,400x2. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  7 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric,  about  15 
yards  to  one  pound. 

Warp  yarn,  1-80  combed  Sea  Island. 
Filling,  l-20s  combed  Sea  Island;  88 
picks  per  inch. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Organdie  is  but  a  plain  woven  fab- 
ric. The  ornamentation  of  the  figured 
fabric  is  effected  by  means  of  the 
printing  press;  consequently  any 
smooth  running  high  speed  loom  may 
be  used  in  the  weaving  of  this  cloth. 
However,  as  the  Northrop  loom  with 
warp  stop  motion  would  answer  best, 
the  warp  may  be  drawn  in  straight  on 
eight  harnesses;  in  using  a  consider- 
able number  of  ends  per  inch,  it  is  safe 
to  use  at  least  eight  harnesses,  so  as 
to  avoid  heddle  chafing. 

The  warp  preparatory  to  weaving  is 
given  a  fair  sizing  with  white  gum  in 
order  to  give  it  strength. 
FINISHING. 

The  fabric  is  stiffened  by  sizing  it 
with  such  ingredients  as  dextrine,  dul 
cine,  albumen,  casein,  etc.,  after  which 
it  is  run  through  the  calender,  whicl 
slightly  glazes  the  surface  of  the  fab- 
ric, thus  completing  the  finishing  proc- 
ess. 

Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  organdies  arr 
composed  require  the  equipment  of 
machinery  found  in  the  second^  or 
third  division  of  mills,  as  given  in  f 
previous  lesson.  This  class  of  goods 
requires  a  very  fine  grade  of  cotton. 
and  generally  both  warp  and  filling 
yarns  are  made  of  combed  stock.  Thf 
counts  of  yarn  vary,  according  to  the 
grade  of  goods  to  be  made.     In  this 


article  it  will  be  considered  that  the 
make-up  of  the  cloth  is  as  follows:  80s 
warp  and  120s  filling  yarn.  These  are 
made  from  Sea  Island  stock  of  IS  to 
l|-inch  staple.  Sea  Island  cotton  as  a 
whole  requires  just  as  little  picking  as 
possible  and  still  get  the  dirt  out.  Sea 
Island  cotton  is  generally  put  through 
an  opener  and  one  process  of  picking 
although  some  overseers  use  two  proc 
esses.  This  stock  is  not  put  through 
the  bale  breaker,  but  is 

GENERALLY    MIXED    BY    HAND. 
If  any  bales  are  found  which  are  not 
up  in  grade  and  staple  they  should  b 
placed  one  side  and  not  put  into  the 
mixing.     The  mixing  should  be  mad 
from  several  bales  at  once,  so  as  to  ge 
the    mixing   as   even   as    possible.   A 
this  point  the  sliver  waste  from  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixe 
in.     The  sliver  should  be  pulled  Intf 
short  lengths  so  that  it  will  not  be  s 
apt  to  become  wound  around  the  pin 
beater    of   the    opener.       The    hoppc 
should    be   kept   more  than   half   full 
The   cotton   is   passed  from   this   m: 
chine  directly  to  the  finisher  picker 
the  apron  of  this  picker  is  divided  up 
into  yard  lengths  and  the  loose  cotton 
is   spread   evenly   over   it.     About   10 
ounces  to  the  yard  is  the  weight  used. 
The  beater  for  this  class  of  goods  is 
generally  of  a  rigid  two-bladed  type, 
the  speed  of  it  being  less  than  those 
that  have  been  previously  given.    The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  about  1,200  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  which  gives  the 
cotton  of  this  length  passing  through 
the  picker  about  29  beats  per  minute. 
The   total   weight   of   the    lap   at   the 
front  of  picker  is  30  pounds,  or  a  10- 
ounce  lap.    The  usual  points  that  have 
been  previously  given  should  be  look- 
ed out  for  and  in  addition  the 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
should  be  watched  to  see  that  it  is 
not  putting  neps  into  the  cotton.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card,  the  draft 
of  which  should  be  high,  not  less 
than  125  and  on  some  Sea  Island 
stock  the  draft  runs  as  high  as  180. 
The  card  wire  fillet  used  on  the  cylin- 
der should  be  No.  120s  (English 
count)  and  for  the  doffer  and  flats 
130s.    The  flats  should  be  speeded  up 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


621 


to  take  out  more  flat  waste  or,  in 
other  words,  the  card  with  110  flats 
should  make  one  revolution  every  35 
minutes.  The  flats  are  speeded  up  by 
lagging  the  flat  pulley  on  the  main 
cylinder  shaft.  Close  settings  should 
be  used  and  these  should  be  gone  over 
every  time  the  card  is  ground,  which 
should  be  once  every  month.  Grind 
lightly.  Strip  three  times  a  day  and 
keep  the  cards  clean,  especially  the 
fronts.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  should  be  about  45  grains 
per  yard  and  the  production  about  225 
to  300  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours 
Be  sure  that  the  feed  plate  is  set  at 
the  proper  distance  from  the  licker-in, 
so  that  the  staple  will  not  be  broken. 
On  most  makes  of  cards  the  licker-in 
is  speeded  too  high  for  this  class  of 
cotton,  and  better  results  will  be  ob- 
tained if  the  speed  is  dropped  to  275 
and  not  more  than  300  revolutions 
per  minute.  It  is  claimed  that  a  high 
speed  of  the  licker-in  tends  to  put 
neps  into  the  cotton  of  long  staple. 

THE  LICKER-IN 
should  be  speeded  so  as  to  tear  the 
sheet  or  lap  apart  and  take  out  the 
seed,  etc.,  left  by  the  picker.  The  cot- 
ton is  next  taken  to  the  sliver  lap  ma 
chines  and  made  into  a  lap.  Th' 
weight  of  the  lap  should  be  about  300 
grains  per  yard.  The  doublings  at 
the  sliver  lap  are  14  into  1  when  6- 
head  9-inch  lap  combers  are  used,  or 
20  into  1  when  8-head  lO^/^-inch  laps 
are  used.  The  laps  from  the  sliver  lap 
machine  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine,  the  weight  of  laps 
per  yard  being  280  grains.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  comber.  The  dou- 
blings at  the  comber  depend  on  how 
many  heads  it  has.  For  the  past  two 
or  three  years  the  comber  builders 
have  sold  practically  nothing  but  8- 
head  combers,  so  we  will  consider  that 
the  mill  is  equipped  in  this  manner. 
The  doublings  would  then  "be  8  into  1. 
For  this  class  of  goods  from  22  to  25 
per  cent  waste  is  taken  out  and  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  is  48 
grains.  This  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  drawing,  the 
weight  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  being  about  60  grains  per 
yard. 


Be  sure  to  keep  the  top  leather  rolls 
well  varnished  and  in  good  condition. 
See  that  all  parts  of  the  machine  are 
working   properly. 

The  sliver  is  next  put  up  to  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .80  hank  roving.  In 
some  mills  the  top  leathers  are  var- 
nished and  in  addition  to  this,  on  long- 
staple  stock,  larger  top  rolls  are 
used. 

This  roving  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames  for  120s  filling 
yarn,  the  hank  roving  at  each  process 
being  as  follows:  At  the  first  inter- 
mediate 2.25  hank,  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate 6.50  hank  and  at  the  fine 
frame  24  hank.  On  this  hank  roving 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  either  have  self- 
weighted  rolls  on  second  intermediate 
and  fine  frames  or  run  them  without 
weights,  all  the  weight  being  on  the 
back  top  roll.  The  roving  is  then 
spun  on  a  mule  into  120s. 

The  slubber  roving  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  being  as 
follows:  At  the  first,  2.25;  at  the  sec- 
ond, 5  hank,  and  the  jack,  16  hank 
Keep  the  top  leather  rolls  in  good 
condition  and  watch  the  traverse 
motion.  Look  out  for  twist  and  don't 
get  too  much  tension,  so  as  to  puK 
the  roving  when  it  is  between  the 
boss  of  the  front  roll  and  the  flyer,  as 
this  tends  to  cause  uneven  roving. 
Don't  let  the  hands  cut  the  roving 
from  the  bobbin,  and  weigh  the  cut 
roving.  This  roving  is  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room  and  spun  into  80s 
yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2%  in- 
ches; diameter  of  ring.  !§  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  5i/i  inches;  twist 
per  inch,  39.08;  speed  of  spindles,  9,- 
600.  From  here  it  passes  through  the 
spooler  and  warper,  and  the  beams 
for  this  machine  are  put  up  at  the 
slasher,  and  after  passing  through 
this  machine  the  required  number  of 
ends  are  run  on  to  a  warp  at  the  front 
end. 

A  GOOD-SIZED  MIXING 

for  80s  yarn,  if  sley  and  pick  are  high, 
is  as  follows:  Water,  100  gallons; 
potato  starch.  70  to  75  pounds;  tallow, 
7  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3  pounds; 
soap   (white),  2  pounds.  Boil  2  hours 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


and  let  stand  10  hours  before  using 
Keep  agitator  running  and  keep  size 
mixing   almost   at   boiling  point. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

Following  are  dyeing  particulars  for 
organdie: 

PINK. 

Two  ounces  rhodamine  pink  6  G. ;  1 
qt.  water;  1%  pints  acetic  acid  90  de- 
grees Tw. ;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution 
70  :  1,000;  %  pints  acetic  acid  tannine 
solution  .1  :   1. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. 
Four  ounces  thioflavine  T. ;  2  qt. 
water;  IVz  pints  acetic  acid,  6  degrees 
Tw. ;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution  .70: 
1.000;  1  pint  acetic  acid  tannine  solu- 
tion 1  :   1. 

PEACOCK   BLUE. 

Four  ounces  turquoise  blue  G. ;  2  qt. 
water;  2  pints  acetic  acid,  9  degrees 
Tw. ;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution  70 
:  1,000;  11/4  pints  acetic  acid  tannine 
solution  1    :   1. 

ROSE. 

Four  ounces  brilliant  rhoduline  re'" 
B.;  2  qt.  water;  1^^  pints  acetic  acid, 
6  degrees  Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth  so- 
lution 70  :  1,000;  l^A  pints  acetic  acid 
tannine  solution  1:1. 

BLUE. 

Four  ounces  methylene  blue  B  B.; 
2  qt.  water;  2  pints  acetic  acid,  9  de- 
grees Tw.;  2  pints  tragacanth  solu- 
tion; ly^  pints  acetic  acid  tannine  so- 
lution 1  :  1. 

GREEN. 

Four  ounces  emerald  green  crystals; 
2y2  pints  water;  2  pints  acetic  acid, 
6  degrees  Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth 
solution  70  :  1,000;  li/^  pints  acetic 
acid,  tannic  acid  solution  1  :  1. 
LIGHT  BROWN. 

Four  ounces  Bismarck  brown  B.;  1 
qt.  water;  2  pints  acetic  acid,  9  de- 
grees Tw. ;  3  pints  tragacanth  solu- 
tion 70  :  1,000;  1^^  pints  acetic  acid 
tannic  acid  solution  1  :  1. 
SAGE  GREEN. 

Mix  together  one  gallon  green  color; 
^4  gallon  light  yellow;  Yz  gallon  light 
brown. 


VIOLET. 

One  ounce  methyl  violet  4  B. ;  1  qt. 
water;  IVz  pints  acetic  acid,  6  degrees 
Tw. ;  0  pints  gum  water  1  :  1;  Vz  pint 
acetic  acid  tannine  solution  1  :  1. 

SLATE. 

One  gallon  blue  color;  1  pint  light 
yellow;  well  mixed  with  Vz  gallon 
tragacanth  solution   70    :    1,000. 

The  color  is  then  strained  through  a 
cloth,  and  is  ready  to  print.  All  the 
colors  are  well  boiled  in  a  copper  pan 
and  strained  through  a  cloth.  After 
the  printing  process,  they  are  dried, 
steamed  one  hour  without  pressure, 
passed  through  a  bath  of  tartar  emet- 
ic, and  soaped  at  90  degrees  F.,  rinsed 
and  dried.  The  goods  are  starched  and 
finished  on  a  tenter  frame. 


ALBATROSS  CLOTH 

Cotton  albatross  cloth  is  a  plain 
fabric  made  in  imitation  of  a  worsted 
fabric  of  the  same  name.  It  is  light 
in  weight,  and  is  used  principally  for 
dress  goods.  It  is  sometimes  used 
instead  of  bunting  for  railroad  flags. 
The  ends  and  picks  per  inch  are  few 
and  the  width  of  the  cloth  is  narrow 

The  items  of  construction  for  a  cot- 
ton albatross  are  as  follows:  Warp, 
1,024  ends  of  No.  28s  cotton;  16  ends 
have  been  allowed  for  selvages. 

Filling,  48  picks  per  inch  of  No.  36s 
cotton;    48   sley  reed. 

Width  in  reed,  23  inches. 

Width   finished.    21    inches. 

This  fabric  can  be  made  very  read- 
ily on  an  automatic  loom,  or  on  any 
of  the  light,  fast  running,  single  box 
cotton  looms,  four  wire  heddle  har- 
nesses, or  the  regular  twine  harnesses, 
on  the  plain  cotton  loom  only  being 
required.  If  wire  harnesses  are  used 
on  a  cam  loom,  the  ends  should  be 
drawn  through  the  heddles,  1,  3,  2,  4. 

Being  considered  a  fair  quality  of 
cloth,  it  is  necessary  to  match  the 
pick  when  weaving  it. 

The  goods  are  finished  by  being 
burled,  sheared,  washed,  singed, 
bleached,  dyed,  rinsed,  dried  and 
pressed;  care  being  taken  not  to  press 
them  too  hard. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


523 


The  singeiag  process  is  sometimes 
omitted. 

Albatross  cloth  is  generally  sold  in 
white,  black,  or  solid  colors,  being 
piece-dyed.  It  is  not  used  to  any  ex- 
tent for  printing  purposes. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  albatross  cloth  are 
made  in  mills  having  the  equipment  of 
machinery  found  in  the  second  divi- 
sion of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  For  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider the  filling  yarn  to  be  number  36s. 
This  would  be  made  of  1  1-16-inch 
staple  American  cotton.  The  warp 
yarn  is  28s  count  and  may  be  made 
from  the  same  state  and  grade  of  cot- 
ton. The  mixing  is  done  either  by 
hand  or  by  a  bale  breaker.  The  cot- 
ton, if  mixed  in  the  former  manner, 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  longer  than 
if  mixed  by  the  latter  method.  This  is 
to  allow  the  cotton 

TO  DRY  OUT. 

At  this  point  the  good  sliver  waste 
from  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is 
mixed  in,  care  being  taken  that  the 
sliver  is  broken  up  into  short  lengths. 
The  cotton  is  next  put  through  an 
opener  and  either  two  or  three  proc- 
esses of  picking  (generally  three).  The 
opener  hopper  should  be  kept  at  least 
half  full  in  order  to  always  have  an 
even  amount  of  cotton  fed  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  is  gener- 
ally provided  with  a  two-bladed,  rigid 
beater,  which  rotates  at  a  speed  of  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  minute.    The 

TOTAL    vvTEIGHT   OF  LAP 

at  the  front  end  of  this  picker  is 
about  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  are  put  up  at  the  intermediate 
picker  and  doubled  four  into  one.  This 
is  also  provided  with  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type  of  beater,  the  speed  being 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
style  of  beater  is  not  always  used,  as 
will  be  noted  later.  The  total  weight 
of  lap  at  the  front  is  about  38  pounds 
or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  At  this  point  the  laps 
of  cut-roving  waste  are  mixed  in  in  the 
proportion  of  one  lap  of  cut  roving  to 


three  laps  of  raw  stock.    The  cut  rov- 
ing is  treated  as  before  stated. 

THE  FINISHER  PICKER 
is  equipped  with  either  a  rigid  or  what 
is  called  a  pin  beater.  A*  great  many 
mills  are  putting  in  this  pin  beater  on 
stock  up  to  1  9-16  inch,  claiming  that 
the  stock  is  more  thoroughly  cleaned. 
The  speed  of  the  pin  beater  (which 
has  three  arms)  is  higher  than  that 
of  the  rigid  type,  being  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  whereas  a  two-arm- 
ed, rigid  type  would  be  run  about  1,- 
450  revolutions  per  minute.  The  pin 
beater  can  be  run  at  a  greater  speed 
because  it  does  not  strike  the  cotton 
a  blow  but  rather  tears  it  apart.  If  a 
two-bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater  is 
used,  it  should  be  speeded  up  so  as 
to  give  about  42  beats  to  each  inch 
of  cotton  passing  through.  The  total 
weight  of  lap  at  the  front  should  be 
about  38  pounds.  Laps  varying  more 
than  one-half  a  pound  either  side  of 
this  standard  should  be  run  over 
again.  Observe  the  general  points 
about  the  picker  room  that  have  been 
given  before.  The  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card.    For  this   grade   of  goods 

THE  DRAFT 
should  not  be  less  than  100.  Use  me- 
dium wire  filled,  i.  e..  No.  120s,  for 
cylinder  and  No.  130s  for  doffer  and 
flats.  Speed  of  licker-in,  320,  flats  one 
revolution  every  45  minutes;  use  26- 
inch  or  large  diameter  doffer.  Strip 
three  times  a  day  and  grind  cards  all 
over  once  a  month.  Groove  setting 
points  frequently  and  watch  the  dead 
roller  grinding  wheel  to  see  that  it  is 
straight. 

The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
should  be  about  65  grains,  the  pro- 
duction being  700  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  The  card  sliver  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
the  weight  at  the  front  being  70  grains 
per  yard. 

WATCH  THE  CLEARERS 
to  see  that  they  are  in  proper  condi- 
tion. Metallic  rolls  may  be  used  on 
this  class  of  work  to  great  advantage. 
If  leather  top  rolls  are  used,  keep 
them  up  in  good  shape.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  run  through  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .55  hank  roving.     This   is 


S24 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames  for  the  filling  yarn,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  process  being  as  fol- 
lows 1st,  1.50;  2d,  3.50,  and  jack,  8.25 
hank. 

"We  will  consider  that  the  filling 
yarn  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room,  where  it  would  be  spun  in  36s 
yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame.  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  11  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  ^Yz  inches;  speed 
of  spindles,  8,900  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. After  being  treated  to  make  it 
damp,  the  filling  is  taken  to  the 
weave  room  and  woven  as  given 
above.  The  roving  for  the  warp  yarn 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  the  first 
intermediate  being  1.75  and  at  the 
jack  5.50  hank.  This  yarn  is  spun  into 
28s  yarn  on  a  ring  frame  having  the 
following  particulars:  Gauge  of  frame, 
21  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1|  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  QYz  inches;  speed 
of  spindles,  9,700  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  warp  yarn  is  then  taken 
to  the  spoolers;  from  here  to  the 
warpers,  and  the  warps  are  put  up  at 
the  slasher,  the  required  number  of 
ends  being  run  upon  a  beam  at  the 
head  end. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
LIGHT  PINK. 
One-half    pound     Erika     pink;      20 
pounds  Glauber's;   2  pounds  sal  soda. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One  pound  diamine  sky  blue  FF. ;  20 
pounds  Glauber's;   2  pounds  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
One  per  cent  katigen  blue  black  B.; 
3    per   cent   soda   ash;     20    per    cent 
Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide. 

OLD  GOLD 

Two  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3 
G.;  2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B. ; 
%  per  cent  diamine  black  BH.;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  SAGE  GREEN. 
One-half   per  cent   chloramine   yel- 
low    M.;     116    per    cent   benzo     fast 
grange  S. ;  ^  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue 


BN.;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  brown 
B.;  ^  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.;  %  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3 
G.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF.; 
1  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  FF.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PEARL. 

One-quarter  per  cent  immedlal  di- 
rect blue  B.;  %  per  cent  immedial 
black  NG.;  i  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen  per  cent  immedial  black 
NN.;  15  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3 
per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Twelve  per  cent  thiogene  blue  B.; 
22  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK   BROWN. 

Ten  per  cent  thiogene  brown  G.;  6 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;    3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Ten  per  cent  pyrogene  green  B.;  12 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

ROSE. 

'Mordant  for  200  gallons  water;  3% 
pounds  tannic  acid;  run  through,  on 
jig  macliine  for  one  hour.  Pass 
through  a  clean  bath  of  two  pounds 
tartar  emetic  for  200  gallons  water 
half  hour;  wash  and  dye.  Two  pounds 
rhodamine  5  G. 

ROYAL    BLUE. 

Mordant  as  rose.  Dye,  IV^  per  cent 
Victoria  blue   B. 

ROYAL  PURPLE. 

Mordant  as  rose.  Dye,  3  per  cent 
methyl  violet  R. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


525 


TARLATAN 


Tarlatan  is  a  fine,  open,  transparent 
muslin,  somewhat  similar  to  an  organ- 
die in  the  feel  and  finish,  though  a 
much  coarser  fabric.  The  cheaper 
grade  of  tarlatan  resembles  mosquito 
netting.  Mosquito  netting,  however,  is 
a  leno  weave,  while  tarlatan  is  but  a 
plain  woven  fabric.  The  goods  are 
piece  dyed  and  may  be  seen  in  any 
color;  some  are  finished  in  pure  white 


Fig.   1.     Drawing-in   Draft. 

(2    repeats.) 

or  bleached.  The  fabric  is  used  for  va- 
rious purposes,  the  finer  qualities  for 
women's  wear.  The  fabric  is  princi- 
pally used  for  draping  and  decorating 
purposes,  for  foundations  for  ladies' 
hats,  for  bunting  around  bird  cages, 
for  a  twofold  purpose — first  to  prevent 
the  birdseed  from  being  scattered  to 
the  floor,  and  second,  as  a  decorative 
feature.  Briefly  we  may  say  that  the 
fabric  is  intended  chiefly  for  draping 
and  decorating  purposes,  especially 
the  cheaper  grades,  the  meshes  of 
which  are  so  open  that  hardly  any 
lady  would  care  to  wear  a  dress  made 
of  it,  unless  she  were  anxious  to  ex- 
hibit the  garments  which  she  would 
be  obliged  to  wear  under  it.  The  grade 
of  tarlatan  under  consideratioi?,  of 
which  an  anaylsis  will  follow,  is  en- 
tirely too  flimsy  for  a  dress  fabric.  If 
the  goods  are  taken  between  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  with  any  degree 
of  firmness  and  the  surface  of  the 
fabric  is  drawn  between  them,  the 
threads  will  readily  give,  or  leave 
their  original  place.  This  would  cer- 
tainly be  a  poor  feature  in  a  fabric  in- 
tended for  dress  goods.  The  fabric  is 
woven  in  comparatively  wide  widths: 
the  coarser  qualities  are  commonly  58 


inches  in  reed -including  selvage.  The 
selvage  is  about  i  of  an  inch,  two  ends 
in  one  heddle,  while  the  body  of 
goods  is  drawn  one  end  in  one  hed- 
dle, and  each  end  into  a  separate  dent 
in  the  reed. 

DDH 
■  ■UC 

uamm 
mmac 
aamm 
mmaa 

aamm 
mmar 

Fig.  2. 

The  goods  in  weaving  have  a  tend- 
ency to  roll  up,  that  is,  the  selvages 
roll  toward  the  middle  of  the  fabric; 
this  is  overcome  by  holding  out  the 
selvages  by  means  of  the  temple.  The 
temple  also  prevents  the  chafing  of 
the  warp  during  weaving. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Any  light-built  loom  with  a  compar- 
atively high  running  speed  will  answer 
for  weaving  tarlatans,  providing  it  is 
wide  enough  in  the  reed  space.  The 
warp  is  usually  drawn  in  on  four  har- 
nesses, in  the  following  order:  1,  3,  2, 
4,  the  chain  being  built  accordingly 
so  as  to  give  a  plain  weave.  The  warp 
is  sized  before  it  is  put  on  the  warp 
beam. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  58  inches. 
Finished  width,  52i/^  inches;  ends  per 
inch  finished,  20;  picks  per  inch  finish- 
ed,  18. 

Reed,  650  x  1. 

Ends  in  warp,  1,010;  80  ends  sel- 
vage, two  ends  in  one  heddle;  total, 
1,090  ends. 

The  take-up  during  the  weaving  is 
very  little;  the  take-up  in  the  finish- 
ed goods  about  1  per  cent.  After  the 
fabric  is  finished  the  threads  lie  prac- 
tically straight;  this  is  due  to  the 
openness  of  the  mesh.  This  readily 
illustrates  that  the  closer  the  weave, 
the  more  take-up  of  warp  yarn. 

Warp  yarn,  l-50s  cotton.    Filling,  1- 
80s  cotton.    Finished  weight,  10  yards 
equal   7  ounces.     The  finished    fabric 
carries  about  12  per  cent  of  sizing. 
FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  is  taken  from  the 
loom,  it  is  sent  to  the  dyehouse.  The 
first  process  is  to  boil  it  off,  in  order 
to   rid   it   of   all   foreign   matter   pos 


526 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


sible;  then  it  is  dyed  or  bleached  as 
required.  After  this  process  and  after 
the  fabric  is  dried,  it  is  then  immersed 
in  size.  Sizing  the  fabric  is  usually 
done  in  front  of  the  drying  cylinders 


by  the  one  in  charge  to  see  that  too 
much  waste  is  not  being  made  at  any 
one  machine  and  also  to  see  that  it  is 
broken  up  into  short  lengths  before 
being     put     into    the    mixings.     Long 


The  goods  pass  from  the  size  trough      lengths  of  sliver  waste  are  apt  to  wind 


Tarlatan. 


onto  the  drying  cylinder,  which  prac- 
tically completes  the  finishing  process. 
The  goods  are  then  doubled  and  put 
onto  boards  in  the  form  of  rolls,  after 
which  they  are  ready  for  the  market. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machinery  required  to  make  the 
counts  of  yarn  of  which  tarlatan  is 
made  will  be  found  in  the  second  di- 
vision of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  counts  used  for  this  class 
of  goods  differ  slightly,  but  for  this 
article  we  will  consider  the  counts  to 
be  l-50s  for  the  warp  yarn  and  l-80*s 
for  the  filling  yarn.  These  yarns  are 
made  of  American  cotton  of  about 
1  5-16-inch  staple.  This  cotton  is  first 
mixed  by  hand,  as  large  a  quantity 
being  mixed  at  one  time  as  possible. 
In  fact  two  large  mixings  should  be 
made  so  that  one  batch  may  be  dry- 
ing out  while  the  other  is  being  used. 
At  this  point  the  good  sliver  from  all 
the  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mix- 
ed in,  it  being  collected  at  regular  in- 
tervals from  the  machines.  An  eye 
«bould       be     kept     on     this       waste 


around  the  various  rotating  parts  of 
the  opener  and  cause  a  "bung  up," 
which  requires  time  to  remove  and 
also  is  apt  to  cause  a  fire. 

If  trunking  is  used  to  connect  the 
opener  to  the  breaker  picker,  be  sure 
that  no  scraps  of  iron  or  other  metal 
are  around  where  they  can  work  into 
the  cotton,  as  this  is  also  apt  to  cause 
a  fire  by  coming  in  contact  with  the 
metallic  parts  of  the  machine  and 
striking  a  spark,  which  ignites  the 
other  cotton  very  quickly  and  often 
causes  a  fire  on  account  of  the  cur- 
rents of  air  which  fan  it  into  a  flame. 
Keep  the  hopper  full  of  cotton  for  rea- 
sons previously  given.    The 

SPEED   OF  THE   BEATER 

(two-bladed  rigid  type)  of  the  opener 
is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute;  the 
total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is  40 
pounds.  These  are  doubled  four  times 
at  the  intermediate  picker.  The  beater 
of  this  machine  may  be  either  of  a 
rigid  type  or  a  pin  beater.  If  of  a 
rigid  type  it  makes  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute;  if  a  pin  beater,  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


527 


of  lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine  is 
38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  ma- 
chine the  cut-roving  waste  is  mixed 
in  with  the  raw  stock  in  the  propor- 
tion of  one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three 
laps  of  raw  stock.  The  cut  roving  is 
first  put  through  a  process  to  take  out 
the  twist  and  then  run  through  a 
picker  to  form  it  into  a  lap.  The  beat- 
er of  this  machine  may  be  either  a 
rigid  or  a  pin  type.  If  the  former,  its 
speed  should  be  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute;  if  the  latter,  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute.    The 

TOTAL  WEIGHT  OF  LAP 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  should  be 
38  pounds  or  a  14%-ounce  lap.  At 
this  machine  all  laps  are  weighed,  and 
if  they  vary  one-half  pound  from  the 
standard  weight  they  should  be  put 
up  at  the  back  and  run  over  again. 
Always  keep  a  supply  of  laps  ahead  in 
case  of  breakdowns,  etc.  The  laps  are 
then  put  up  at  the  cards.  The  speed 
of  the  licker-in  should  be  about  325 
revolutions  per  minute;  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
55  minutes.  The  card  clotning  should 
be  110s  for  cylinder  and  120s  for  doffer 
and  flats.  Use  a  large  doffer  (either 
26  or  27  inch  diameter).  Strip  cards 
three  times  a  day  and  see  that  they 
are  ground  all  over  once  a  month  a 
whole  day  (twice  a  month  grinding 
half  a  day  is  better). 

ALWAYS  GRIND  LIGHTLY. 
The  card  clothing  should  be  looked 
after  at  intervals  to  see  that  it  is  not 
faced  or  hooked.  Before  grinding,  all 
Jams  should  be  taken  and  flats  should 
be  kept  free  from  cotton  embedded  in 
the  wire  fillet.  After  grinding,  the 
parts  should  be  set  in  proper  relation 
to  each  other.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
for  the  class  of  goods  under  descrip- 
tion should  weigh  65  grains  per  yard 
and  the  production  should  be  about  700 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cotton  should  be  run  through  three 
processes  of  drawing  frames.  It  will 
be  found 

A  GREAT  ADVANTAGE 
to  run  metallic  top  rolls  for  this  grade 
of  goods.    The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 


the  finisher  drawing  should  be  about 
65  grains,  the  doublings  at  each  proc- 
ess of  drawing  being  6  into  1.  The  hank 
roving  at  the  slubber  should  be  about 
55.  The  slubber  roving  for  both  the 
warp  and  filling  roving  should  be  put 
through  three  processes  of  fiy  frames, 
the  hank  roving  being  as  follows:  For 
warp,  first,  1.50  hank;  second,  3.50 
hank;  jack,  10  hank;  for  filling  yarn, 
first,  1.50;  second,  4  hank;  jack,  16 
hank. 

The  roving  for  warp  yarn  should  be 
taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  50s  count  on  a  frame  hav- 
ing the  following  particulars:  Gauge 
of  frame,  2|  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
iy2  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6 
inches;  revolutions  per  minute  of 
spindle,  10,000.  The  yam  is  then 
spooled  and  warped  and  several  warps 
put  up  at  the  slasher  and  the  required 
number  of  ends  run  onto  a  beam  at  the 
front.  The  filling  yarn  is  spun  into 
80s  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1^4  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  5  inches;  revolu- 
tions  per   minute   of   spindle,   7,400. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

Tarlatans  are  dyed  on  the  jig  ma- 
chine, or  the  color  is  boiled  up  in  the 
starching  process  with  the  starch.  The 
dyed  colors,  being  faster,  are  mostly 
used.  The  following  color  is  an  ex- 
ample of  a  starched  dyeing: 

ORANGE. 
One  gallon  of  water;  6  ounces  dex- 
trine; 2  ounces  tetrazo  orange  CR. 
]\Iix  cold.  Boil  for  3u  minutes.  Pass 
the  pieces  through  a  starch  mangle, 
and  dry  on  tenter  frame.  All  one-dip 
colors  can  be  dyed  after  this  formula 
and  any  shade  produced  by  varying 
the  amount  of  color. 

RED. 

Three  per  cent  tetrazo  red  B.;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PINK. 

Four  ounces  benzo  fast  pink  2  BL. ; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 


Bar, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


LEMON  YELLOW. 

One-half  per  cent  chrysophenine;  10 
per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  green 
B.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

WINE. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.;  25 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G.;  y2  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  BH. ;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SKY   BLUE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FT".; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  blue  RW. ; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  diamine  jet  black 
00.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 

R»1    findfl. 


BROCATELLE 


sal  soda. 


MAUVE. 


One-half  per  cent  diamine  violet  N.; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

GRAY. 

One  per  cent  diamine  gray  G. ;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

ROSE. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  rose  BD. : 
15  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda.  The  pieces  are  starched  and 
dried  on  a  tenter  frame. 


Brocatelle  is  a  coarse  brocaded  or 
figured  fabric  of  cotton  and  wool  or 
silk  and  linen  or  cotton,  used  for 
tapestry  and  upholstery  and  some- 
times for  dresses.  The  brocatelle  used 
for  dresses  is  much  finer  and  neces- 
sarily lighter  in  weight  than  the  fab- 
ric used  for  upholstery  purposes. 

We  will  here  consider  the  fabrics 
used  for  upholstery  purposes  only. 
This  may  be  classed  as  a  double  cloth 
fabric,  with  two  warps  and  two  fill- 
ings, a  face  warp  and  weft  and  a  back 
warp  and  weft.  These  warps  and  fill- 
ings, however,  interweave  with  one 
another,  thereby  binding  together  the 
two  sets  of  warp  and  filling  threads, 
with  this  peculiarity,  that  the  face 
warp  threads  do  not  show  on  the  back 
of  the  fabric  nor  does  the  back  filling 
show  on  the  face  of  the  fabric,  while, 
on  the  contrary,  the  face  filling  shows 
on  the  back  and  the  back  warp  threads 
show  on  the  face. 

The  face  warp  threads  give  body  to 
and  also  form  the  ornamental  feature 
of  the  fabric,  which  is  the  raised  oi 
brocaded   figure  in  the  cloth. 

These  threads,  when  not  forming 
the  figure,  lie  buried  between  the  face 
and  back  filling  picks.  The  figure  thus 
formed  is  usually  of  an  eight-harness 
sateen  weave,  the  ends  floating  over 
seven  back  filling  picks  and  under  one, 
while  the  back  filling  is  used  princi- 
pally to  give  weight  to  the  fabric  and 
accentuate  the  raised  figure. 

Brocatelle,  as  already  mentioned,  is 
made  with  silk  and  wool,  linen  or  cot- 
ton; the  face  is  of  silk,  while  the  back 
has  wool,  linen  or  cotton,  depending 
on  the  quality  of  fabric  desired,  as 
does  also  the  quality  of  silk  used  in 
the  fabric. 

The  yarns   in  all   instances  are 

DYED  BEFORE  WEAVING. 

The  colors  and  number  used  depend 
upon  the  prevailing  fashion.  Som« 
brocatelles  are  made  up  of  several  col- 
ors on  the  face  of  the  goods,  while 
again  others  have  but  two — the  figure 
and  ground  colors.  The  figure  color 
is  usually  darker  than  the  ground.  For 
example,  a  dark  olive  may  be  used  fo 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


529 


figure  color,  that  is,  the  face  warp 
threads,  while  the  ground  color,  face 
filling  picks,  uiay  be  a  light  salmon. 
The  back  warp  is  usually  the  same  au 
the  lace  lilling,  while  the  back  fiUin 
usually  blends  off  to  a  lighter  shade 
of  olive.  The  object  is  to  have  th' 
colors  blend  well  together  and  at  th 
same  time  form  a  harmonious  con- 
trast. 


190  ends  per  inch  in  reed;  reeded  8 
ends  50-2  silk  and  2  ends  2-llOs  cot- 
ton in  one  dent;   19  x  10  dent  reed. 

Ends  per  inch  finished  200;  finished 
width  of  fabric,  49.4  inches. 

Filling:  116  picks  per  inch;  58,  21s 
silk  salmon;  58,  28s  linen  light  olive; 
total  116. 

Linen  300  yards  per  pound;  lOs  cot- 
ton. 


Fig.    1. 


The  ornamental  features  of  broca- 
telles  are  elaborate,  conventionalized 
floral  figures  which  cover  the  greatei 
portion  of  the  surface  of  the  fabric 
about  75  per  cent.  The  figures  are  bold 
and  rich,  repeating  about  iVz  timer 
across  the  width  of  the  fabric.  Fig. 
gives  an  idea  of  the  character  of  de- 
sign used.  This  is  about  one-half  th 
size  it  would  be  in  the  fabric. 

THE  CONSTRUCTION 

is  as  follows; 

7.904   ends    50-2    silk    face    warp. 
i,976   ends   2-llOs  cotton    brick   warp. 
16   ends   4-20s   white   cotton   selvace. 

9.896   ends    In    warp. 

Dressed,  4  ends  olive  50-2  silk;  1 
end  salmon  2-llGs  cotton;  total,  5  ends 
per  warp  pattern. 


Filling  arrangement:  1  pick  21s  silV 
face;  1  pick  28s  linen  back;  total,  2 
picks,  repeat. 

Weight  per  yard  of  finished  fabric 
14.83  ounces. 

Weight  of  various  yarns  used: 

6.04  ounces  face  warp. 
2.60   ounces    face    filling. 

.70  ounce  back  warp. 
5.46   ounces    back    filling. 

.03   ounce    selvage. 


14.83   ounces. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Brocatelle  requires  a  heavy  jac- 
quard  loom.  The  patterns  require  from 
400  to  1,200  ends  and  over,  in  order  to 
repeat.  Consequently,  a  machine  thai 
can  operate  the  required  number  of 
ends  is  essential  for  the  production  of 
these   fabrics.   When  a  great   number 


530 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  ends  are  required  for  the  repeat  of 
the  pattern,  two  machines  are  com- 
bined; for  example  2-600  machines  will 
operate  a  1,200  end  pattern,  but  usual- 
ly a  French  or  fine  index  machine  is 
used  that  will  operate  the  required 
number  of  ends. 

The  pattern  to  be  woven  is  first 
stamped  on  cards  by  means  of  a  card 
cutting  machine.  This  machine  con- 
sists of  a  punch  box,  containing  13 
punches;  if  a  600  machine,  25;  if  a 
1,200  machine,  24  for  cutting  the 
smaller  holes  and  one  for  the  peg 
holes.  These  cards,  when  placed  on 
the  jacquard  machine  over  the  loom 
bear  a  direct  relation  to  the  warp 
threads,  raising  and  dropping  them 
according  to  the  pattern.  The  warp 
threads  in  the  drawing  in  are  kept 
separate  from  each  other;  that  is,  the 
face  warp  threads  are  drawn  through 
certain  mails,  as  likewise  are  the  back 
warp  threads,  although  both  sets  of 
threads    are   represented    on   the    one 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics  require  no  finishing. 
They  are  smoothed  and  folded  and  are 
then  ready  for  the  upholsterer. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  which  make  the  cotton 
yarns  for  brocatelle  will  be  found  in 
the  second  and  sometimes  the  first  di- 
vision of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  Brocatelle  is  a  fabric  made  up 
of  many  different  fibres,  but  the  fabric 
under  description  is  composed  of  silk 
and  cotton,  the  back  warp  and  selvage 
being  composed  of  cotton  yarns.  It 
is  these  yarns  that  we  will  describe. 
The  cotton  back  warp  yarns  are  2-lir 
cotton  yarns,  while  the  selvage  is  com- 
posed of  4-20s  cotton  yarns.  The  cot- 
ton used  for  the  back  warp  of  this 
count  would  be  of  a  good  American 
cotton  of  about  1  9-16-inch  staple.  This 
yam  should  be  put  through  a  bale 
breaker  and  carried  to  the  bins  by 
means  of  a  blower  and  trunking.  This 
will  insure  the  cotton  at  this  point  be- 
ing dry,  and  in  a  more  "picked  out" 
state  than  when  hand  mixing  is  done. 
The  cotton  is  mixed  at  the  bale  break- 
er in  the  usual  manner,  each  bale  be- 


ing first  stapled  to  make  sure  that  the 
cotton  is  all  up  to  standard. 

COTTON  MUST  BE  DRY. 
If  the  mixing  is  done  by  hand  it 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible  before  using,  so  that  it  will 
be  thoroughly  dry.  Too  much  care 
cannot  be  taken  at  this  point,  as  all 
carders  know  what  trouble  damp  cot- 
ton makes.  The  good  sliver  waste 
from  the  machines  up  to  the  slubber 
is  mixed  in  at  this  point,  care  being 
taken  to  see  that  only  the  cotton  of 
the  same  grade  and  length  of  staple 
is  thrown  into  the  bin.  This  waste 
should  not  be  put  all  in  one  place,  but 
should  be  distributed  all  over  the  top 
and  front  or  back  of  the  mixing.  The 
cotton  is  next  run  through  an  opener 
and 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING. 
At  the  opener  the  hopper  should  be 
kept  well  filled  so  as  to  feed  the  break- 
er picker  an  even  sheet.  The  breaker 
picker  beater  is  generally  of  the  rigid 
type,  either  two  or  three  blades  being 
used. 

If  two  blades  are  used,  the  speed 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute;  if  three  blades,  the  speed 
should  be  proportionately  slower.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is 
371/^  pounds  or  a  14-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  doubled  four  times  at  the  in- 
termediate. This  picker  is  generally 
provided  with  a  two-bladed  beater,  the 
speed  of  which  for  this  class  of  cotton 
should  not  exceed  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute.    Some  overseers 

PREFER  A  PIN  BEATER 
at  the  machine  and  a  rigid  beater  at 
the  finisher  and  some  just  the  reverse. 
If  a  pin  beater  is  used,  the  fan  does 
not  have  to  be  run  at  such  a  high  rate 
of  speed,  as  this  beater  creates  con- 
siderable draught  itself.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  this  picker  is  36 
pounds  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  These  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of  this 
beater,  two-bladed  rigid  type,  is  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  is  35  pounds  or  a 
121/^ -ounce  lap.  The  cotton  at  this 
picker  receives  42   beats  per  minute. 

The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card.    The 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


531 


licker-in  speed  should  be  about  350 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  top  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  in  40 
minutes.  The  cards  should  be  ground 
and  set  once  a  month,  stripped  three 
times  a  day  and  cleaned  and  oiled 
twice  a  day;  keep  the  front  of  the 
cards  always  clean  from  fly,  etc.  Col- 
lect flat  strips  at  regular  intervals,  not 
too  long  apart,  so  that  they  will  fall 
over  the  doffer  and  not  get  into  the 
good  work.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
should  weigh  60  grains  per  yard,  and 
the  production  should  be  550  pounds 
per  week  of  60  hours.  This  sliver  is 
put  through 

THREE   PROCESSES   OF  DRAWING. 

The  top  rolls  used  may  be  either  me- 
tallic or  leather  top  rolls.  These  should 
be  looked  out  for  at  all  times,  but  es- 
pecially so  in  hot  weather  to  see  that 
they  are  in  perfect  condition.  Keep 
sweaty  hands  off  of  the  varnish  on 
the  rolls.  Varnish  rolls  frequently. 
A  small  piece  of  borax  in  the  mixture 
will  help  harden  the  varnish.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  is  60  grains  per  yard.  When 
the  weight  is  kept  at  the  drawings, 
they  should  be  sized  at  least  three 
times  a  day.  This  is  then  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank 
The  roving  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
First,  2.25;  second,  6.50,  and  jack, 
18.50.  The  roving  is  next  spun  into 
110s  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Diameter  of  ring,  11 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  5  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  9,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  is  then  spooled,  and 
twisted  into  2-ply  yarn  and  then  run 
on  a  warper  and  through  a  slasher. 

COTTON  USED  FOR  SELVAGE. 

The  cotton  to  make  the  selvage  yaru 
is  1%-inch  staple.  At  the  pickers  the 
changes  from  the  above  are  as  fol- 
lows: Speed  of  beater,  breaker,  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute;  intermediatr 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute  and  fin- 
isher, 1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 

The  weights  of  the  laps  are  as  fol- 
lows: Breaker,  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap;  intermediate,  37  pounds  or 
a  12-ounce  lap;  finisher,  35  pounds  or 


a  12% -ounce  lap.  At  the  cards  note 
the  following  changes  from  the  back 
warp  yarn:  Speed  of  top  flats,  1  revo- 
lution every  50  minutes;  weight  of 
sliver,  65  grains  per  yard;  production 
per   week   of   6)   hours,   750   pounds. 

Draft  of  cards  should  not  be  over 
100.  At  the  finisher  drawing  the 
weight  of  sliver  at  the  finisher  Is  70 
grains  per  yard.     It  is 

AN  ADVANTAGE 
to  use  metallic  top  rolls  on  this  stock 
at  the  drawing  frame.  Slubber  roving 
should  be  .55  hank.  There  should  b3 
two  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  process  being  as  fol- 
lows: First  intermediate,  1.75  hank; 
second,  5  hank.  The  roving  is  then 
taken  to  the  spinning  room  and  spun 
into  20s  yarn  on  a  frame,  the  partic- 
ulars of  which  have  been  given  be- 
fore. The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and 
twisted  into  4-ply  20s. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  colors  are  dyed  on  the  silk, 
wool,  or  cotton,  in  the  yarn.  The  col- 
ors used  depend  on  the  prevailing 
fashion. 

The  following  wool  colors  are  dyed 
in  the  acid  bath  of  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt  and  3  per  cent  sulphuric 
acid! 

For  100  pounds  wool  yarn: 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
Pour     ounces     patent   blue     B. ;     ^ 
ounce    orange    II. 

OLIVE   BROWN. 
One   per  cent  orange  II.;    i/^   ounce 
lanafuchsine   SB.;    4  ounces   fast  yel- 
low S.;   1  ounce  indigo  blue  N. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
Two   per   cent   orange    II.;    IVz    per 
cent  fast  yellow   extra;    4  ounces  azo 
crimson  L. ;  6  ounces  fast  green  B. 

OLIVE    GREEN. 
One  and  three-quarters  per  cent  in- 
digo  blue   N. ;    1    per  cent  tropaeoline 
00. 

GREEN. 

Two  and  one-half  per  cent  Indigo 
blue  N. ;  %  per  cent  fast  yellow  S.; 
1%  tropaeoline  00. 


532 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  palatine  black  4  B. 

VIOLET. 
Two  per  cent  acid  violet  4  BN. 

SCARLET. 
Two  per  cent  palatine  scarlet  4  R. 

SALMON. 
One  and  one-half  ounces  rhodamine 
5  G. ;  20  grains  eosine  yellowish. 

ROSE. 
Five  per  cent  rhodamine  G. 

LAVENDER. 
One    ounce    acid    violet    4    BN.;    30 
grains  orange  II.;  100  grains  fast  acid 
violet  10  B. 

SILK    COLORS. 
Silk  yarn  is  dyed  in  the  soap  bath 
with  the  addition  of  acetic  acid. 
SALMON. 
One  ounce  rhodamine  5  G. 

LIGHT   LAVENDER. 
One-quarter  acid  violet  4  BN.;    100 
grains  rhodamine  G. 

OLIVE   GREEN. 
One  per  cent  fast  green  B. ;    1  per 
cent  fast  yellow  Ex.;   4  ounces  orange 
II. 

ROSE. 
One  per  cent  rhodamine  5  G. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Two    per    cent     indigo     blue    N. ;    4 
ounces  acid  violet  2  BN. 
RED. 
One  per  cent  fast  red  R. 
LIGHT  GREEN. 
One   per    cent   acid    Victoria    green 
SN. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. 
Four  ounces  tartarzine  S. 

COTTON  COLORS. 
Following  are  the  dyeing  particulars 
for  cotton  co-ors: 

BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  blue  f 
B. ;   20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 


LIGHT  BROWN. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;    1 
per   cent   diamine   fast   yellow   B.;    20 
per    cent    Glauber's;    2    per    cent    sal 
soda. 

OLIVE   BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  chloramine  yellow 
M. ;  1/^  per  cent  benzo  dark  green  B.; 
Yz  per  cent  benzo  brown  B. 

TAN. 
One-half  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange 
S.;  2  per  cent  chrysophenine;  2  ouncef 
benzo  fast  black. 

GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green  GG. ; 
8  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

NAVY    BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  indone  3  B.; 
10    per   cent    sodium    sulphide;    3    per 
cent  soda  ash;    30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

OLIVE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  G. ;   5 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;    20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

RED. 
Five  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  BS.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

«-•-♦ 

TERRY  PILE  FABRICS 

Terry  is  a  fabric  in  which  the  dis- 
tinguishing effect  is  small  loops  of 
warp  yarn,  uncut  pile,  projecting  from 
one  or  both  sides  of  the  cloth,  these 
loops  being  tied  to  the  ground  cloth  in 
regular  or  irregular  order  as  desired. 

The  terry  principle  of  ronstructi3n, 
which  has  been  developed  with  the 
power  loom,  is  used  extensively  in  the 
manufacture  of  cotton  terry  toweling, 
known  generally  as  Turkish  toweling. 

These  towels  are  m.ade  in  various 
sizes  and  grades  from  the  cheap  fab- 
rics made  almost  entirely  from  waste 
yarns  to  those  r^ade  of  the  best  qual- 
ity of   cotton   obtainable. 

Terry  pile  is  the  sirplest  of  the 
many  types  of  warp  pile  goods,  the  ef- 
fect being  obtained  without  the  use 
of  wires. 


1 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


533 


Two  warps  are  required:  (a)  the 
ground   warp;    (b)   the   pile   warp. 

The  ground  warp  contains  the  sel- 
vage and  ground  ends,  and  is  wound 
on  the  regular  loom  beam.  This  beam 
Is  heavily  weighted  in  the  loom.  The 
pile  warp  is  usually  wound  on  a  light 
beam  and  is  allowed  to  let  off  the 
warp  very  easily. 

The  reason  for  the  difference  in  ten- 
sion on  the  warps  is  to  allow  the 
ground  warp  to  remain  tight  and  the 


f;o  4- 


no  5 


FtC.6 


pile  warp  to  go  forward  easily  when  it 
is  required  to  loop. 

Figs.  1,  2  and  3  will  serve  to  illus- 
trate the  relation  of  a  terry  design  to 
the  cloth.  Circles  indicate  picks; 
dotted  lines,  ground  ends;  continuous 
lines,  pile  ends.  The  numbered  ends 
in  each  figure  correspond. 

Assuming  F  to  represent  the  fell  of 
the  cloth,  and  the  last  pick  of  a  re- 
peat, Fig.  2  shows  how  the  three  suc- 
ceeding picks  A,  B  and  C  would  appear 
when  about  to  be  driven  to  the  fell  of 
the  cloth,  and  Fig.  3  a  section  of  the 
cloth  with  the  loop  completed. 

Figs.  4,  5  and  6  illustrate  a  design 
and  sectional  view  of  a  terry  cloth  in 


which  the  pile  is  distributed  on  one 
side  of  the  cloth  only.  Cloth  of  this 
type  is  used  for  furniture  coverings 
and  as  a  ground  for  embroidered  ef- 
fects. 

Figured  terry  goods  are  made  by 
combining  colored  yarns  and  terry 
effects,  the  terry  being  thrown  on  eith- 
er side  when  the  other  is  weaving  a 
ground  weave.  The  face  and  back  are 
reversible. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

In  order  to  weave  terry  toweling  a 
dobby  loom  differing  from  the  ordi- 
nary loom  is  required.  The  principal 
point  of  difference  is  in  its  having 
mechanism  to  allow  two  (in  three-pick 
terry)  out  of  three  picks  to  be  beat- 
en up  to  within  a  certain  distance  of 
the  fell  of  the  cloth,  this  distance  de- 
pending upon  the  length  of  pile  de- 
sired, then  forcing  these  two  picks 
along  with  every  third  pick,  to  the 
fell  of  the  cloth. 

The  object  of  this  is  to  allow  the 
'first  two  picks  to  fasten  themselves 
into  the  pile  ends,  say  one-half  inch 
from  the  cloth,  so  that  when  the  three 
picks  are  driven  home  together  the 
pile  ends  will  go  along  with  them, 
making  a  loop  slightly  less  than  V^ 
inch.  At  the  same  time  the  three  picks 
will  slide  over  the  ground  ends,  these 
interlacing  with  the  filling  as  in  an 
ordinary  cloth. 

To  accomplish  the  three-pick  move- 
ment to  form  the  loop  one  of  twr 
methods  is  adopted:  (a)  By  rocking 
or  oscillating  reed  which  is  held  back 
or  forced  to  the  fell  of  the  cloth  as  de- 
sired; (b)  by  a  rocking  whip  roll  and 
back  roll  terry  motion.  With  this  de- 
A  ice  the  reed  is  held  firm,  the  cloth  be- 
ing moved  back  toward  the  rear  of  the 
loom  every  third  pick.  A  backward 
and  forward  movement,  similar  to  that 
of  the  cloth,  is  imparted  to  the  tem- 
ples. The  length  of  pile  can  b«  varied 
as  desired,  or  the  weave  can  be  chang- 
ed from  terry  to  regular,  or  from  reg- 
ular to  terry  as  required. 

A  loom  for  weaving  terry  towels,  be- 
sides having  mechanism  for  making 
the  pile,  contains  mechanism  for  one 
or  more  of  the  following:  (a)  A  boy 
motion,  for  inserting  different  colors 
or  kinds  of  filling;  (b)  a  fringe  motion 


534 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


for  making  fringe  at  the  end  of  each 
towel;  (c)  a  motion  for  changing  the 
weave  from  terry  to  regular  construc- 
tion or  vice  versa  at  the  beginning  and 
end  of  each  towel.  This  is  usually  ac- 
complished with  a  multiplier  or  re- 
peater, or  with  a  measuring  devic 
which  automatically  brings  into  play 
the  pattern  chain  required. 

Terry  looms  are  usually  heavily  built 
and  contain  stands  for  as  least  two- 
warp  beams. 

FINISHING. 

Some  toweling  is  sold  in  the  gray 
but  most  of  it  is  bleached.  First  proc 
ess:  Boiled  with  4  per  cent  caustic 
soda,  boil  for  12  hours,  rinsed  through 
water;  second,  again  boiled  with  4 
per  cent  caustic  soda,  boil  for  1( 
hours;  third,  passed  through  acid  bath 
Vz  degree  Tw.  sulphuric  acid,  rinsed 
with  water;  fourth,  passed  through 
chlorine  water  at  Vz  degree  Tw.  and 
laid  down  in  bin  until  white;  fifth, 
passed  through  acid  bath  of  Vz  degree 
Tw.  sulphuric  acid  and  rinsed  weU 
with  water,  dried  and  cut  up  intc 
towels. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  terry  cloth  are 
made  vary  from  those  made  of  waste 
stock  to  those  made  of  long  staple 
combed  stock  and  it  would  be 
hard  to  describe  one  particular  grade 
to  make  it  cover  all  terry  cloth.  For 
this  article  we  will  suppose  the 
average  count  of  the  yarn  is  l-45s 
and  will  give  the  carding  and  spin- 
ning particulars  for  this  count  of 
yarn  in  both  warp  and  filling  yarns. 
We  will  also  consider  that  the  stock 
is  carded. 

THE    MACHINERY    USED 

would  be  found  in  the  equipment  found 
in  the  second  division  of  mills,  as  giv- 
en in  a  previous  article.  The  cotton 
would  be  brought  from  the  cotton 
shed  and  sampled  by  the  one  in 
charge  of  this  job;  sometimes  it  is 
the  overseer,  sometimes  the  "super." 
and  sometimes,  in  large  mills,  a  cot- 
ton sampler  is  employed.  All  bales 
containing  cotton  not  up  to  grade  or 
length  of  staple  should  be  placed  at 


one  side  and  not  put  into  the  mixing. 
The  mixing  should  be  as  large  as  pos- 
sible and  may  be  done  either  by  hand 
or,  as  is  more  generally  the  custom,  by 
a  bale  breaker.  One  bale  breaker  is 
able  to  take  care  of  a  great  many 
bales  of  cotton  per  week.  The  cotton 
is  fed  to  the  bale  breaker  from  several 
bales  of  cotton,  a  little  being  taken 
from  each.  This  is  so  that  the  cotton 
from  all  the  bales  will  be  intermixed, 
and  in  this  manner  a  more  even  yarn 
is  apt  to  result.  After  passing  the 
bale  breaker  the  cotton  is  conveyed  to 
the  mixing  bins  by  an  arrangement  of 
endless  lattices,  which  may  be  moved 
when  it  is  desired  to  drop  the  cotton 
into  another  bin. 

THE  MIXING 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible,  especially  if  the  mixing  is 
done  by  hand.  The  cotton  is  then 
put  through  a  bale  breaker  and  three 
processes  of  picking.  The  hopper  of 
the  opener  or  feeder  should  always  be 
kept  more  than  half  full  so  that  th«y 
spiked  lifting  apron  will  always  be 
carrying  a  load  to  the  pin  beater.  In 
this  manner  an  even  amount  of  cotton 
is  fed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  break- 
er picker.  The  breaker  picker  is  pro- 
vided with  either  a  two  or  three  armed 
rigid  type  of  beater.  If  two-bladed, 
the  speed  should  not  exceed  1,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute  for  this  grade  and 
staple  of  cotton  (1  5-16-inch  peeler). 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  end  of  the  breaker  picker  is  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  may 
be  provided  either  with  a  rigid  or  pin 
type  of  beater.  They  both  have  a 
great  many  favorites  among  the  trade. 
The  speed  of  a  rigid  two-bladed  type 
should  be  about  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute. 

THE  FAN  SPEED 
should  be  about  1,050  revolutions  pei 
minute.  If  a  pin  beater  is  used,  the 
speed  of  the  fan  may  be  reduced.  This 
is  on  account  of  the  amount  of  draft 
that  this  beater  creates  itself.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  head  end 
of  this  machine  is  37  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap.  Thes.e  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  4  intc 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


535 


1.  What  has  been  said  of  the 
beater  at  the  intermediate  picker  ap- 
plies here,  except  that  the  speed  of  a 
two-bladed  rigid  type  should  be  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This^  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  it  about  42 
beats  or  blows  per  inch.  The  cut  rov- 
ing is  brought  to  the  picker  room  and 
put  through  a  special  picker  (to  take 
out  the  twist)  and  then  is  run  through 
a  breaker  picker  to  form  it  into  a  lap, 
and  these  laps  are  mixed  with  the  raw 
stock  at  the  finisher  picker  in  the  pro- 
portion of  three  laps  raw  stock  to  one 
lap  cut  waste.    The  total 

WEIGHT    OP   THE   LAP 

at  the  front  of  the  finisher  picker 
should  be  about  35  pounds  or  a  12 1/^- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card;  the  draft  ol  which  should 
not  exceed  110.  The  card  clothing 
used  should  be  for  carding  medium 
counts.  This  should  be  ground  at 
least  once  a  month  all  over,  after 
which  the  card  should  be  reset.  Use 
gauges  that  are  straight  and  not  bent 
all  out  of  shape.  The  cards  should  be 
stripped  three  times  a  day  and  kept 
clean.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
should  be  about  300  revolutions  per 
minute  and  the  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  every  50  minutes. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be  65 
grains  per  yard,  with  a  production  of 
700  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.. 
Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  possible.  This 
sliver  is  put  up  at  the  drawing  frame 
and  doubled  6  into  1.  The  sliver 
should  be  run  through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING. 
Either  metallic  or  leather-covered  top 
rolls  may  be  used  to  good  advantage. 
Whichever  top  roll  is  used,  it  should 
be  kept  in  the  best  of  shape.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the 
finisher  drawing  should  be  about  70 
grains  per  yard.  This  is  put  up  at 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank 
roving.  This  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames  and  made  into 
9  hank,  the  hank  roving  at  each  proc- 
ess being  as  follows:  1st,  1.25  hank; 
2d,  3.50  hank,  and  fine,  9  hank.  This 
is  then  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  45s  warp  yarn  on 
a  frame  with  the  following  particulars: 


Gauge  of  frame,  2i  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  iy2  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
6  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  10,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  twist  per  inch, 
30.19.  This  is  then  spooled  and  warp- 
ed and  the  required  number  of  warps 
put  up  at  the  slasher  to  give  the  re- 
quired number  of  ends  at  the  front 
warp.  For  making  45s  filling  yarn  use 
a  frame  having  the  following  particu- 
lars: Diameter  of  ring,  l^A  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  5%  inches;  twist 
per  inch,  25;  speed  of  spindles,  8,500 
revolutions  per  minute. 

■»  ♦  » 

SATINE  or  SATEEN 

Satine,  or  sateen,  is  a  cotton  fabric 
with  a  smooth,  lustrous  surface  resem- 
bling satin.  The  latter  is  made  of  silk. 
The  weaves  for  satins  and  satines  are 
similar. 

Satines,  which  are  of  two  kinds, 
warp  satines  and  filling  satines,  are 
made  in  a  great  variety  of  weights 
and  qualities,  and  are  used  for  many 
purposes. 

The  bulk  of  the  goods  are  made  on 
the  filling  satin  principle  and  are  used 
for  linings,  corset  covers,  dress  goods, 
etc.  These  are  usually  woven  grey 
and  are  bleached,  or  piece  dyed  in 
varying  colors. 

Warp  satines  are  used  for  mattress 
and  furniture  coverings. 

Stripe  effects  are  made  by  using  a 
warp  containing  different  colors  and 
a  warp  satine  weave.  Warp  and  filling 
satines  are  also  printed,  to  a  consid- 
erable extent,  the  smooth  face  lend- 
ing itself  very  readily  to  this  process. 

COLORED  EFFECTS 
made  in  the  loom  are  confined  to 
stripes  made  when  a  warp  satine 
weave  is  used,  because  the  warp  cov- 
ers the  filling  almost  entirely.  In  a 
filling  satine  the  filling  practically  cov- 
ers all  the  warp,  and  color  inserted 
here  would  show  in  harry  effect  across 
the   cloth. 

The  smooth,  lustrous  effect  of  sat- 
ines is  due  in  large  measure  to  th? 
weave  used.  Briefly  stated,  satine 
weaves  are  made  on  from  five  ends 
upward;  they  are  complete  on  the 
same  number  of  ends  as  picks;    each 


B3« 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


end  and  each  pick  interlaces  only 
twice  in  each  repeat;  the  interlacings 
do  not  support  each  other,  at  least 
one  end  or  one  pick  separating  them. 

In  filling  satines  each  end  is  raised 
over  one  pick  only  in  each  repeat; 
warp  satines,  vice  versa. 

Figs.  1  and  2  illustrate  the  only  two 
filling  satine  weaves  that  can  be  made 
on  five  ends.  Both  of  these  weaves  are 


■■■GBSH 

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■■■■■■a 

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annua 

DD«na 

■■aaaaa 

aaaaaaa 

auaaa 

DDDDB 

aaaaaaa 

aaaaaaa 

naaam 

DBDaa 

BDaaaaa 

aaaaaaa 

aauaa 

DDDBa 

aaaaaaa 

aaaaaaa 

■aoaa 

■aaaa 

□aaaaaa 

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used  in  the  trade,  some  buyers  prefer- 
ring one  to  the  other,  according  to  the 
effect  desired. 

Figs.  3  and  4  show  warp  satine 
weaves  on  seven  ends  each. 

The  constructions  of  filling  satine 
fabrics  vary  from  about  64  to  over  100 
sley  and  120  to  300  or  more  picks. 

The  following,  which  show  results 
of  the  analyses  of  five  different  satine 
fabrics,  will  serve  to  show  that  the 
satine  principle  of  construction  is  used 
in  fabrics  of  widely  differing  quali- 
ties. 

Sample  No.  1.  Colored  warp  satine 
stripe  cloth  for  upholstery;  96  ends 
and  52  picks  per  inch;  7s  cotton  yarn 
for  warp  and  lis  for  filling.  Woven 
with  weave  Fig.  5,  a  5 -end  warp  satine 
weave. 

The  filling  in  this  particular  sample 
is  twisted  harder  than  the  warp. 

Sample  No.  2.  A  fine  warp  satine  of 
good  quality,  made  with  a  7 -end 
weave;  152  sley  and  80  picks;  2-50s 
warp  and  30s  filling. 

Samples  1  and  2,  as  well  as  almost 
all  warp  satines,  on  account  of  the 
large  proportion  of  warp  on  the  face, 
would  be  woven  face  down  in  the 
loom. 

Sample  No.  3.  A  filling  satine  of  fair 
quality;  72  sley  and  150  picks;  45s 
warp  and  70s  filling.    Weave  Fig.  1. 

Sample  No.  4.  96  sley  and  280  picks; 
453  warp  and  97s  filling.  Weave  Fig. 
1. 

Sample  No.  5.  104  sley  and  210 
picks;  60s  warp  and  75s  filling.  Weave 


Samples  4  and  5  are  of  good  quality. 

Satines,  whether  warp  or  filling,  are 
usually  woven  on  single  box  cam 
looms  of  heavier  build  than  plain 
sheeting  looms.  The  selvages  are  ac- 
tuated by  a  selvage  motion.  If  woven 
on  dobby  looms,  the  selvage  motion 
is  dispensed  with. 

One  warp  only  is  required.  The 
ends  are  drawn  through  the  harnesses 
in   straight   order. 

In  practice  it  has  been  found  ad- 
visable, when  weaving  heavily  pick- 
ed satines,  to  use  a  reed  that  is  no 
deeper  than  is  necessary.  For  warp 
satine,  on  account  of  the  large  num- 
ber of  ends  and  comparatively  few 
picks  per  inch,  deeper  reeds  are  used, 
so  that  the  wires  will  give,  to  some 
extent,  for  knots. 

FINISHING  SATINES. 

Satine  tickings  are  sheared  and  then 
calendered  with  hot  steam  rollers,  the 
steaming  being  done  in  front  of  the 
machines;  the  appearance  is  improved 
by  gas  singeing.  A  method  of  finish- 
ing ordinary  dyed  yarn  satines  is  to 
first  saturate  them  with  a  mixture  of 
corn  or  potato  starch,  China  clay  or 
baryta  and  tallow.  To  this  is  added 
soap  or  oleine,  with  wax  and  glue  size. 
They  are  then  mangled,  dried,  damped, 
calendered,  folded  and  pressed. 

There  are  many  satines  which  are 
made  from  grey  yarn  and  then  finish- 
ed as  desired.  This  method  of  manu- 
facture has  developed  extensively  dur- 
ing recent  years  and  is  much  more 
economical  than  was  formerly  noted 
where  bleached  and  dyed  yarns  were 
used.  Many  of  the  so-called  galateas 
are  nothing  more  or  less  than  a  rath- 
er coarse  satine,  which  has  been  wo- 
ven with  grey  yarns  then  bleached 
and  afterward  printed  with  various 
striped  patterns. 

For  printed  or  dyed  satines,  starch 
with  a  small  portion  of  soda  crystals 
for  a  stiff  finish,  and  soluble  oil  with 
soda  for  a  soft  finish  are  used. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Satines  are  made  up  of  various 
counts  of  yarns,  the  different  samples 
analyzed  being  only  a  few  of  the  va- 
rious grades  made,  but  they  illustrate 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


637 


the  various  grades  very  well.  For  the 
carding  and  spinning  particulars  of  a 
satine,  sample  No.  5  will  be  taken  as 
an  example.  This  is  made  up  of  comb- 
ed yarns  of  60s  for  warp  and  75s  for 
filling.  The  cotton  used  would  be 
Egyptian  or  peeler  of  11 -inch  staple. 
This  grade  of  satine  is  made  in  either 
the  second  or  third  division  of  mills, 
as  given  in  a  previous  lesson.  Of 
course, 

THE  EQUIPMENT 
will  have  to  include  combers.  The  cot- 
ton is  first  sampled  and  then  mixed  in 
a  manner  that  has  been  described  in 
previous  lessons.  It  is  better  to  use 
a  bale  breaker,  but  cotton  may  be 
mixed  by  hand.  If  mixed  by  hand,  let 
the  mixing  stand  a  little  longer  to  dry 
and  open  out  as  the  cotton  is  com- 
pressed very  tightly  in  the  bales. 
These  Egyptian  bales  weigh  consider- 
ably more  than  the  American  bales. 

The  good  waste  from  the  machines 
up  to  the  slubber  should  be  mixed  in 
at  the  mixing  bin.  The  cotton  is  next 
put  through  an  opener  and  three  proc- 
esses of  picking.  The  hopper  of  the 
opener  should  always  be  kept 
OVER  HALF  FULL, 
so  that  an  even  amount  of  cotton  will 
be  fed  to  the  breaker  picker.  The 
breaker  picker  is  provided  with  either 
a  two  or  three  bladed  beater  of  a  rigid 
type.  If  the  former,  the  speed  should 
be  about  1,350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
should  be  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  interme- 
diate picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  The 
beater  of  this  picker  is  either  a  two 
or  three  bladed  rigid  or  a  bin  beater. 
If  the  former,  the  speed  of  it  should  be 
1,250  revolutions  per  minute.  If  a 
pin  beater  is  used,  the  fan  speed  should 
be  reduced  for  reasons  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  36  pounds 
or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
doubled  4  into  1  at  the  finisher  picker. 
At  this  picker  the  cut-roving  waste, 
which  has  previously  been  put  through 
a  roving  picker,  to  take  out  the  twist, 
and  a  breaker  to  form  the  fluffy  mass 
into  a  lap,  is  mixed  in  in 
the  proportion  of  three  laps 
of      raw      stock    to      one      lap      of 


cut-roving  waste.  If  the  equipment 
of  machinery  does  not  include  a  roving 
picker,  the  cut  roving  is  mixed  in  at 
the  mixing  bin,  care  being  taken  to 
spread  it  over  the  entire  mixing.  The 
speed  of  the  finisher  picker  beater  of 
a  rigid  two-bladed  type  is  1,200  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  is  35  pounds  or  a 
121/^ -ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  card.  The  wire  fillet  used 
should  be  120s  for  cylinder  and  130s 
for  doffer  and  flats.  Use  a  26  or  27 
inch  diameter  doffer.  The  speed  of 
the  cylinder  should  be  160  revolutions 
per  minute;  licker-in,  300  revolutions 
per  minute.  Top  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  in  35  minutes. 
The  draft  of  the  card  on  this  stock 
should  not  be  less  than   125. 

THE  CARDS 

should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  ground  at  least  once  a  month,  at 
which  time  the  various  settings  should 
be  gone  over.  Set  doffer  to  cylinder 
with  a  5  gauge.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
weighs  55  grains  per  yard  and  the 
production  is  about  475  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  This  sliver  is  taken 
to  the  sliver  lap  machine  and  doubled 
14  into  1  for  an  8|-inch  lap  (wide)  or 
20  into  1  for  a  lOi/^-inch  lap.  These 
laps  are  generally  put  through  a  rib- 
bon lap  machine,  the  weight  of  them 
being  330  grains  per  yard  for  an  8%- 
inch  lap  or  380  grains  for  a  10%-inch 
lap.  The  laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at 
the  ribbon  lap,  the  weight  at  the  front 
being  265  for  an  8|-inch  lap  and  320 
grains  for  a  IQi/^-inch  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  comber  and  doubled 
either  6  or  8  into  1,  according  to 
whether  the  comber  is  a  six  or  eight 
head   comber. 

THE  EIGHT-HEAD  COMBER 
is  the  one  that  is  being  put  iu  nowa- 
days, very  few  of  the  six-head  being 
sold.  A  new  development  which  has 
been  noted  the  last  few  years  is  the 
use  of  single  head  combers.  These  are 
practically'  entirely  produced  in  for- 
eign countries,  their  method  of  opera- 
tion being  somewhat  different  than  the 
old  style  machine,  and  for  various  rea- 
sons they  are  considered  more  satis- 
factory than    the    six   or   eight   head 


538 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


comber.  Probably  there  are  a  greater 
number  of  such  machines  being  in- 
stalled in  new  mills  than 
there  are  of  the  older  style  ma- 
chine. The  speed  of  the  comber  should 
be  at  least  90  nips  per  minute,  and 
may  run  up  as  high  as  105.  The  per- 
centage taken  out  should  be  about  20. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
is  40  grains  per  yard.  The  combed 
sliver  is  next  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  drawing,  the  speed  of  the 
front  roll  being  400  revolutions  per 
minute.  Either  metallic  or  leather- 
covered  top  rolls  may  be  used,  gener- 
ally the  latter.  These  should  be  var- 
nished frequently  and  those  that  are 
damaged,  fluted,  loose  or  not  true 
should  not  be  run.  If  the  latter,  they 
may  be  buffed,  as  may  also  the  leather 
rolls  at  the  comber.  See  that  the  stop 
motions  are  all  in  working  order,  and 
that  the  traverse  motion  is  set  and 
working  so  that  the  whole  surface 
of  the  leather  rolls  is  used. 

THE  SETTING 
or  spread  of  the  rolls  for  this  stock 
should  be  11  inches  front  roll  to  sec- 
ond; iy2  inches  second  roll  to  third, 
and  1%  or  1|  inches  third  to  back 
roll,  according  to  bulk  of  cotton  being 
fed.  The  doublings  at  the  drawing 
frames  are  6  into  1.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  is  60  grains  per 
yard.  This  sliver  is  put  through  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .70  hank  rov- 
ing, after  which  it  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames  and  made  into 
the  following  hank  roving  at  each 
frame.  First  intermediate,  1.75;  sec- 
ond intermediate,  4.50;  and  fine,  15; 
at  the  fine  frame  the  lays  per  inch  on 
the  bobbin  being  48. 

The  standard  for  twist  for  this  kind 
of  cotton  is  1.2  multiplied  by  the 
square  root  of  the  count.  For  exam- 
ple, the  count  or  hank  is  15.  The 
square  root  of  15  is  3.87,  which  mul- 
tiplied by  12,  equals  4.64.  If  the  stand- 
ard for  twist  on  this  frame  was  94.9, 
the  twist  gear  used  would  be  20.  The 
method  by  which  this  is  found  is  by 
dividing  the  constant  for  twist  by  the 
standard  for  twist  (American  frames). 
Look  out  for  the  leather  top  rolls, 
traverse  and  clearers  to  see  that  each 
is  performing  its  duty  properly.     Of 


course,  the  speed  of  the  rolls 
is  very  important,  the  general  method 
being  to  gain  1-16  of  an  inch  over 
stock  at  each  roll.  The  production 
should  be  about  33  hank  per  spindle 
per  week  of  60  hours.  The  15-hank 
roving  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  60s  warp  yarn  on 
a  frame  having  a  gauge  of  2|  inches; 
ring  diameter  of  IVz  inches,  and 
length  of  traverse,  6  inches;  with  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  put  through 
a  spooler  and  warper  and  then  a  slash- 
er. The  filling  yarn  is  made  from  the 
15-hank  roving  on  a  frame  having  a 
li^-inch  diameter  ring,  5 -inch  traverse 
and  spindle  speed  of  7,400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  roving  for  the  filling 
yarn  may  be  taken  to  the  mule  room, 
but  for  this  class  of  goods  is  gener- 
ally taken  to  the  ring  frame  spinning 
room. 

Dyeing  and   Finishing   Particulars. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  Erika    pink;     20 
per    cent    Glauber's;    2    per    cent    sal 
soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  lilac 
B.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  tetrazo  blue  Rx.;  25 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

GRAY. 
One-half  per  cent  thio  gray  B.;    10 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
One-half  per   cent  direct  black  S.; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PEACOCK  BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  Eboli  blue  B.;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

RED. 
Three  per  cent  direct  red  B.;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SLATE. 
Two   per   cent   katigen   black   SW. ; 
2  per   cent  sodium  sulphide;     20    per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  soda  ash. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


639 


ROYAL  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  blue 
6B.;  1/4  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R. ; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

TAN   BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S.; 
2  per  cent  chrysophenine;  V^  per  cent 
benzo  fast  black;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One  and  three-quarters  per  cent  dia- 
mine sky  blue  FF. ;   25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  brown  B. ;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

WINE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux 
B.;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 

Two  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
scarlet  B.;  25  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

Satines  are  finished  by  passing 
through  a  calender  machine  to  give  a 
fine  luster  finish  and  are  sometimes 
placed  on  a  beetle  machine  and  beetled 
for  two  hours.  They  are  starched  first 
with  a  very  light  starch,  and  a  little 
white  soluble  softening,  to  give  a 
soft,  smooth   feel. 


MUSLIN— BUTCHER'S  MUSLIN 

Muslin  is  commercially  understood 
to  mean  a  soft  cotton  fabric,  used  for 
various  purposes,  but  principally  for 
dress  goods,  underwear,  sheetings, 
etc.  Some  muslins  are  named  from 
their  place  of  production,  as  Asoreem, 
Dacca,  India,  Madras  and  Swiss, 
while  some  are  named  from  the 
use  to  which  they  are  chiefly  put,  as 
butcher's  muslin,  which  derives  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  it  is  chiefly 
used  by  grocery  men  and  butchers  in 
the  form  of  aprons  and  coverings.  It 
Is  a  strong  bleached  fabric,  well  suit- 
ed for  the  purposes.  Muslin  is  so  call- 
ed from  ^losul,  a  city  on  the  banks 
of    the    Tigris,    where    was    once    the 


chief  seat  of  its  manufacture,  but  to- 
day large  quantities  are  manufactured 
in   the   United   States. 

The  quality  of  muslin  is  as  varied 
as  are  the  names  by  which  it  is 
known.  Butcher's  muslin  is  but  a  sub- 
stitute for  butcher's  linen.  Cotton  is 
cheaper  and  almost  as  durable,  and 
because  of  this  it  has  forced  itself  to 
the  front.  Butcher's  muslin  is  easily 
distinguished  from  the  others  by  its 
coarseness.  However,  considerable 
quantities  are  used  for  summer  outing 
dresses,  for  which  purposes  th^ 
bleached  fabric  only  is  used.  The  un- 
bleached is  used  principally  for  sheet- 
ings and  sometimes  for  pillow  cases. 
The  unbleached  fabric  is  preferred 
where  durability  is  the  chief  object.  It 
is  a  common  fact  that  unbleached  fab- 
rics will  wear  better  than  bleached. 

Muslin  is  used  only  in  the  bleached 
or  unbleached  state.  The  fabric  is 
seldom  dyed. 

As  previously  mentioned,  there  are 
various  kinds  of  muslin;  in  fact,  any- 
thing in  the  line  of  soft  cotton  fab- 
rics may  be  termed  muslin.  The  name 
by  which  a  particular  kind  is  common- 
ly known  may  vary  likewise  in  quality, 
as,  for  example,  there  are  several 
qualities  of  butcher's  muslin,  as  an 
analysis   would   prove. 

Analysis  of  a  fair  grade  of  butcher's 
muslin,  which  retails  at  15  cents  per 
yard:  width  in  reed,  37 Yz  inches;  fin- 
ished width,  36  inches;  ends  in  warp. 
1,900:  1.844  in  body;  28  ends  each 
side  equal  56,  selvage;  total,  1,900;  900 
X  2  reed;  52  ends  per  inch  finished; 
warp,  l-12s  cotton;  take-up  during 
weaving,  8  per  cent;  filling,  40  picks 
per  inch  in  loom;  38  picks  per  inch 
finished;  l-15s  cotton;  weight  per  yard 
in  the  gray,  5  ounces. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Muslin  is  a  plain  woven  fabric;  con- 
sequently any  loom  may  be  used  in 
the  weaving  of  these  goods.  The  cost 
of  production  is,  of  course,  reduced  in 
proportion  to  the  speed  of  the  loom 
and  the  number  of  looms  a  weaver 
can  take  care  of.  The  least  expense 
would  be  incurred  by  using  an  auto- 
matic loom. 

The  warp  should  be  sized 
so      as      to      withstand      the     chaf- 


ua 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ing  during  weaving.  As  a  rule,  all 
single  yarns  are  sized  before  they  are 
beamed.  The  warp  is  drawn  in  on  4 
harnesses.    Fig.  1  shows  design. 

cmamamam 
■aaaaDBD 
amnmamam 
■aaaiDBD 
OBaaaaaB 
mamamama 
aaaaaBDa 
aaaaaaac' 

Fig.   1. 

FINISHING. 

The  unbleached  receives  little  or  no 
finishing.  After  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  it  is  simply  boiled  off,  dried, 
made  up  into  rolls  and  then  shipped. 

When  the  fabric  is  to  be  bleached, 
it  is  first  boiled  off,  then  subjected  to 
the  bleaching  chemicals,  after  which 
it  is  sometimes  subjected  to  a  very 
light  sizing,  composed  of  corn,  or 
wheat,  glycerine,  bees'  or  Japan  wax, 
after  which  it  is  run  through  a  rotary 
press,  then  made  up  into  rolls  or  fold- 
ed and  shipped. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Parti<julars. 

The  yarns  of  which  butcher's  mus- 
lin is  made  are  of  a  low  count  and  are 
made  in  mills  of  the  first  division.  The 
grade  of  cloth  is  sometimes  made  up 
of  raw  stock  and  a  certain  percentage 
of  waste.  The  raw  stock  used  very 
rarely  exceeds  i  inch  in  staple  and 
is  of  a  low-grade  American  cotton. 
While  the  same  care  is  not  taken  of 
this  class  cotton  at  the  different  proc- 
esses for  this  cloth,  still  care  should 
be  taken  to  see  that  each  machine  is 
working  properly  to  its  best  advan- 
tage foT  production.  In  this  class  of 
goods  production  is 

THE  FIRST  CONSIDERATION 
and  quality  the  second.  This  does  not 
mean  that  quality  should  be  sacrificed 
wholly  for  production,  but  that  the 
machines  should  be  driven  to  a  great- 
er extent  and  the  best  possible  work 
turned  off  of  them  under  these  condi- 
tions. For  example,  at  the  card  the 
top  flats  should  not  be  set  or  driven 
at  the  same  speed  as  when  finer  goods 
are  made,  and  so  it  is  with  all  the  ma- 
chines. The  cotton  mixings  should  al- 
ways be  as  large  as  possible  and 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 


possible  before  being  used.  This  gives 
the  cotton  a  chance  to  dry  out.  A  bet- 
ter plan  (if  there  is  room  enough) 
is  to  have  two  large  mixings  and  use 
the  cotton  from  one  while  the  other 
is  drying  out.  If  cotton  is  very  damp, 
the  heat  should  be  turned  on  to  help 
dry  it  out.  This  is  generally  done  at 
night  or  over  Saturday  and  Sunday. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  good  waste 
from  all  the  machines  is  mixed  in, 
care  being  taken  to  see  that  the  waste 
is  spread  as  evenly  as  possible  over 
the  mixing.  As  the  cotton  is  generally 
quite  dirty,  it  is  put  through  an  open- 
er and  three  processes  of  picking.  The 
hopper  of  the  opener  should  always 
be  kept  full  of  cotton.  The  opener  is 
connected  directly  with  the  breaker 
picker  and  this  machine  is  provided 
with  either  a  two  or  three  bladed  rigid 
beater.    If  of  a  two-bladed  type 

THE  SPEED 

should  be  about  1,550  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  should  be  about  40  pounds, 
or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put 
up  and  doubled  four  into  one  at  the 
intermediate  picker.  This  beater  is 
generally  of  a  two  or  three  bladed 
rigid  type,  and  if  the  former  its  speed 
is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
laps  at  the  front  of  this  machine  weigh 
38  pounds  total  weight  and  10  ounces 
per  yard.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  four  into 
one.  This  machine  is  generally  pro- 
vided with  a  two-bladed  rigid  type  of 
beater  having  a  speed  of  about  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  laps  at 
the  head  end  weigh  40  pounds  or  14^/^ 
ounces  to  a  yard.  An  allowance  of  10 
ounces  either  side  of  standard  is  made 
with  this  staple  cotton.  If  the  lap  va- 
ries more  than  this,  it  should  be  run 
over  again.   These  laps  are  put  up  at 

THE  CARD. 
This  should  be  set  coarse  and  have 
No.  100  wire  fillet  on  cylinder  and  top 
flat,  the  doffer  fillet  being  No.  110 
The  draft  of  card  should  not  exceed 
100.  Strip  cards  at  least  three  times 
a  day.  The  cards  on  this  stock  need 
more  stripping  than  when  long-sta- 
pled stock  is  used,  because  of  the 
greater  bulk  passing  through  and  also 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


S41 


on  account  of  the  short  staple,  which 
fills  up  the  wire.  The  card  sliver 
weighs  65  grains  per  yard  and  the 
production  should  be  about  1,000 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  This  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing 
frames.  It  is  of  great  advantage  to  use 
metallic  rolls  on  this  class  of  goods. 
The  speed  of  front  rolls  is  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  Keep  rolls  free  from 
dirt  and  fly.  The  sliver  is  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .40  hank 
roving.  This  is  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  having  the  follow- 
ing hank  roving:  1.30  at  the  first  and 
3.25  at  second.  The  roving  is  then 
taken  to  the  spinning  room  and  made 
into  15s  on  the  filling  frame  and  12s 
on  the  warp  frame.  Use  a  warp  frame 
with  3-inch  gauge,  2J-inch  ring  and  7- 
inch  traverse,  with  a  16.4.5  twist  per 
inch  and  spindles  revolving  at  9,000 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
then  spooled  and  wound  on  a  warper. 
Enough  beams  are  put  up  at  the  back 
of  the  slasher  to  give  a  beam  with  the 
required  number  of  ends  in  front.  To 
m.ake  15s  filling  yarn  use  a  frame  hav- 
ing 2%-inch  gauge,  li/^-inch  diam- 
eter ring,  61/^ -inch  traverse,  12.59 
twist  per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of 
6,900   revolutions   per  minute. 


HENRIETTA  CLOTH 

Henrietta  cloth  is  a  light-weight 
fabric  for  women's  wear,  made  in  all 
colors  from  single  worsted  yarn,  with 
silk  mixture  in  the  best  qualities. 

The  cheaper  qualities  are  made  with 
cotton  and  worsted,  the  cotton  yarn 
being  for  the  warp,  while  the  worsted 
is  used  for  filling.  Henriettas  are 
made  in  various  qualities;  for  exam- 
ple, the  "all-worsted"  from  various 
grades  of  fine  worsted  yarn;  the  wor- 
sted and  silk  mixture  from  various 
grades  of  each;  the  "cotton  and  wor- 
sted" made  up  in  various  qualities  of 
cotton  and  worsted  yarn. 

When  the  fabric  is  made  with  dif- 
ferent qualities  of  yarn,  that  is,  the 
warp  differing  from  the  filling  in  qual- 
ity or  kind,  the  cheaper  quality  or  kind 
is  in  all  instances  used  for  warp.  The 


reason  for  this  is  readily  understood, 
when  the  character  of  the  weave  is 
taken  into  consideration.  The  weave 
for  this  fabric  is  a  one-up,  two-down 
twill,  the  weave  repeating  on  three 
ends   and   three   picks.    Fig.   1   shows 


nBaoBDOBn 
■uuB  amaa 
Damaamaam 
Dma^maama 
uaumaaman 
raunDmaam 

□■naBDDBD 

■an«DDBaa 
Fig.    1. 

nnnncDaaa 

nnancLaaa 
DnaDDBnnn 
DDDaBDnna 

□ODBDCDnn 
□□■DDDDDn 
DBaDDDnGD 

■DGnaDncD 
Fig.    2. 


nine  repeats  of  the  weave;  Fig.  2, 
drawing-in  draft.  This  weave  will 
show  but  one-third  of  the  warp  on 
the  face  of  the  fabric  and  two-thirds 
of  the  filling;  the  filling  is  usually  of 
a  slightly  coarser  count  than  the 
warp,  especially  when  cotton  warp  Is 
used,  consequently  the  filling,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  covers  the  warp  yarn. 
The  two  factors,  the  weave,  viz.,  * — - 
twill  and  the  coarser  count  of  filling, 
give  to  the  face  of  the  fabric  a  much 
finer  feel  than  the  back.  The  feel  or 
handle  of  henriettas  is  very  important, 
consequently  the  above-mentioned 
particulars  should  be  kept  in  view 
when  constructing  a  fabric  of  this 
character,  as  its  commercial  value  is 
largely  influenced  by  the  feel  of  the 
fabric. 

PIECE-DYED. 

The  cloth  is  dyed  after  it  is  woven. 
Considerable  quantities  of  cotton  and 
worsted  henriettas  are  bleached  or 
finished  in  the  gray;  when  the  cotton 
and  worsted  fabric  is  to  be  dyed,  the 
cotton  yarn  is  prepared  so  as  to  take 
color  in  a  worsted  dye,  otherwise  two 
dyeing  processes  would  be  necessary — 
one  for  the  cotton  yarn  and  one  for 
the  worsted.  The  one-dip  or  union  dye 
makes  the  cost  of  finishing  but  normal. 
Preparing  the  cotton  yarn  for  the 
worsted  dye  is  accomplished  before 
the  yarn  is  warped  or  beamed. 


542 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


ANALYSIS. 
Width   of  warp   in  reed,    38   inches. 
Wiaia    of    fabric    finished,    35    inches. 
L^iids    per    incii    in    reed,     70. 
i^jnus    per    inch    flnislied,    7  6. 
Reed,    35x2. 

li,nds   in   warp   2,620,    plus   40,    20   ends  each 
side    selvage;    total   ends   in   warp,    2,660. 
Warp   yarn,    l-50s  cotton. 

FILLING. 
l-40s    worsted. 
64    picks   per   inch    in   loom. 
66   picks  per  inch   finished. 
Finished    weight    per    yard,     three    ounces. 

WEAVING. 

Henriettas  are  usually  woven  on 
dobby  looms,  the  speed  of  which  is 
from  120  to  140  picks  per  minute;  it 
is  essential  that  the  warp  is  well  siz- 
ed, adding  about  15  per  cent  of  weight 
to  the  yarn;  wheat,  flour,  sago  or  po- 
tato starch  may  be  used;  in  connec- 
tion with  this,  a  small  quantity  of 
chloride  of  magnesium  should  be  add- 
ed to  give  the  yarn  the  necessary 
moisture  and  pliability. 

FINISHING. 
First  process:  After  the  fabric  is 
woven,  it  is  scoured,  then  bleached, 
dyed  or  left  in  the  gray,  as  the  case 
may  be,  after  which  the  fabric  is  sub- 
jected to  a  very  light  singeing  in  order 
to  slightly  stiffen  the  cloth,  after 
which  it  is  pressed,  then  made  up  into 
rolls. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  which  make  up  henrietta 
cloth  are  made  up  of  two  fibres,  wor- 
sted for  the  filling  and  cotton  for  the 
warp  yarn.  The  count  of  the  warp 
yarn  is  1-50  and  this  count  of  yarn 
would  be  made  up  in  mills  of  the  sec- 
ond division,  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  This  equipment  should  in- 
clude combers,  as  this  yarn  in  most 
grades  of  the  cloth  under  description 
is  combed.  The  cotton  is  mixed  in  the 
usual  method,  which  has  been  de- 
scribed  several  times.    It  is 

OF  GREAT  ADVANTAGE 
to  use  a  bale  breaker  for  this  class  of 
yarns.  The  cotton  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  picking,  the  break- 
er picker  being  combined  with  an 
opener.  The  breaker  picker  is  provid- 
ed with  a  three-bladed  beater,  the 
speed    of    which    is    1,200    revolutions 


per  minute.  The  lap  at  the  front 
weighs  39  pounds  to  the  lap  or  16 
ounces  to  the  yard.  These  are  doubled 
4  into  1  at  the  intermediate  picker. 
This  picker  has  a  pin  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,300  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  fan  speed  being  reduced  on 
account  of  the  extra  draft  caused  by 
the  pin  beater.    The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  LAP 
at  the  front  end  of  this  picker  is  37 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  point  the 
cut-roving  waste  is  also  mixed  in  in 
the  proportion  of  1  lap  cut  waste  to 
3  laps  raw  stock.  This  picker  is  gen- 
erally provided  with  a  two-bladed 
beater,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  Keep  the  beater 
blades  sharp  and  properly  adjusted. 
This  speed  of  the  beater  gives  the  cot- 
ton passing  through  the  picker  about 
40  beats  or  blows  to  the  inch.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  lap  at  front  is  35  pounds 
or  a  121/^ -ounce  lap.  The  lap  for  this 
class  of  work  is  allowed  half  a  pound 
variation  either  side  of  standard 
weight;  if  more  than  this.  It  should 
be  run  over  again,  because,  if  put  up 
at  the  card,  it  would  have  a  tendency 
to  make  uneven  work. 

AT  THE  CARD 
the  following  particulars  should  be 
observed:  Draft  of  card  not  less  than 
110;  wire  fillet  for  cylinder,  120s;  for 
doffer  and  top  flats,  130s.  Use  large 
doffer.  Strip  three  times  a  day.  Grind 
all  fillet  once  a  month,  leaving  grind- 
ing rolls  on  all  day.  Grinding  twice  a 
month  is  better,  leaving  grinding  rolls 
on  half  a  day.  The  speed  of  the  licker- 
in  is  300  revolutions  per  minute;  flats, 
1  revolution  in  35  minutes.  The  weight 
of  sliver  at  front  should  be  about 
50  grains  per  yard;  production,  550 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  This  sliv- 
er is  taken  to  sliver  lap  machines  and 
doubled  14  Into  1  for  82-lnch  lap  or 
20  into  1  for  lOVg-inch  lap.    The 

SPREAD  OF  ROLLS 
for  this  stock  (peeler  1%-inch  staple) 
should  be  as  follows:  Front  to  middle, 
1%  inches;  middle  to  back.  If  inches. 
The  weight  per  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  300  grains  for  8% -inch  lap  or 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


543 


350  grains  for  a  10%-inch  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  ma- 
chine and  doubled  6  into  1.  The 
weight  per  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  is 
265  grains  for  8|-inch  lap  or  315 
grains  for  lOi/^-inch  lap.  This  gives  a 
draft  of  about  7  for  this  machine. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber 
and  doubled  either  6  or  8  into  1,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  heads  on  the 
comber.  If  8  heads,  the  laps  should  be 
101^  inches  wide  and  set  as  follows: 
Cushion  plate  to  half  lap,  18  gauge; 
top  combs  to  segment,  20  gauge.  Feed 
at  51/^,  top  comb  set  to  29  degrees  an- 
gle; a  double  row  of  needles  is  used 
on  top  comb;  18  per  cent  waste  should 
be  taken  out 

THE  SPEED 

should  be  100  nips  per  minute;  draft 
about  40;  weight  of  sliver,  50  grains 
per  yard.  The  setting  of  rolls  in  draw 
box  should  be  as  follows:  Front  to 
middle,  11  inches;  middle  to  back,  1% 
inches.  This  sliver  is  put  up  at  the 
drawing  frames  and  doubled  6  into  1 
and  put  through  two  processes,  the 
speed  of  front  roll  at  each  process  be- 
ing 380  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
spread  of  the  rolls  being  as  follows: 
Front  to  second,  11  inches;  second  to 
third,  11  inches;  third  to  back,  1% 
inches.  Use  leather  top  rolls  on  this 
class  of  drawing  and  keep  them  well 
varnished  and  in  perfect  condition. 
The  weight  of  sliver  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  drawing  is  65  grains  per 
yard.  This  is  put  up  at  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .50  hank  roving. 

AT   THE    SLUBBER 

the  front  rolls  for  this  class  of  goods 
are  sometimes  varnished,  but  this  is 
not  often  done,  they  being  varnished 
when  running  on  Sea  Island  stock.  The 
slubber  roving  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  1.50;  second  inter- 
mediate, 3.50,  and  jack,  10  hank.  Look 
out  for  the  traverse  motion  and  do 
not  lay  roving  too  close  to  make  tri- 
angular roving.  This  roving  is  then 
spun  into  50s  yarn  on  a  ring  spinning 
warp  frame  with  a  23-inch  gauge  of 
frame,    1%-inch     diameter     ring    and 


a  6-inch  traverse.  The  speed  of  the 
spindles  is  10,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  twist  per  inch,  31.81.  This 
yarn  is  next  put  through  a  spooler, 
then  a  warper  and  from  here  to  a 
slasher.  A  good-sized  mixture  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  as  follows:  Water, 
100  gallons;  potato  starch,  54  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds;  white  soap, 
iy2  pounds. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
This  cloth  is  dyed  with  union  col- 
ors, the  wool  and  cotton  being  dyed  in 
the  same  bath.  The  goods  are  entered 
into  the  dye-kettle;  after  the  color 
has  been  boiled  up  with  from  20  to 
30  per  cent  of  Glauber's  salt,  cool  off 
with  water  to  120  degrees  F.  Run  the 
goods  for  20  minutes;  heat  to  200  de- 
grees F.  Run  for  30  minutes.  If  wool 
is  not  dark  enough,  boil  for  some  min- 
utes more;  when  wool  is  only  a  shade 
too  light,  turn  off  steam  and  run  for 
30  minutes  or  until  the  cotton  is  col- 
ored to  shade.  If  the  goods  are  boil- 
ed too  long  the  wool  will  be  too  dark 
and  the  cotton  thin. 

UNION  BLACK. 

5  per  cent  union  black  BF.;  25  per 
cent  Glauber's   salt;    5   per  cent   salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

IVz  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.; 
Vz  per  cent  diamine  orange  B.;  Yz  per 
cent  diamine  brown  M.;  6  ounces 
union  black  BF. ;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;   2   per   cent   salt. 

NAVY   BLUE. 

3  per  cent  diamine  black  BH. ;  1  per 
cent  union  black  BF. ;  4  per  cent 
naphthol  blue  black;  Vz  per  cent  for- 
myl  violet  S  4  B. ;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  5  per  cent  salt. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  S  4B.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  5  per  cent  salt. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

100  pounds  goods:  1  ounce  tetrazo 
orange  G. ;  V^  ounce  union  tetrazo 
black  B. ;  \  ounce  tetrazo  Bordeaux  G. ; 
i  ounce  tetrazo  brown  R. ;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 


544 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SLATE. 

1  per  cent  diamine  black  BH.;  14 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

PURPLE. 

2  per  cent  diamine  violet  N.;  ^4  per 
cent  union  black;  1  per  cent  formyl 
violet  S  4  B.;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 

3  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  5  per  cent 
salt. 

PEA    GREEN. 

1/^  per  cent  diamine  green  B.;  1 
ounce  diamine  sky  blue;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

SV2  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue 
G.;  y2  per  cent  diamine  violet  S  4  B.; 
30    per    cent    Glauber's;     5    per    cent 
salt. 
,,;  DARK  GREEN. 

-'  2V2  per  cent  diamine  black  HW. ;  2 
per  cent  diamine  green  B.;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;   5  per  cent  salt. 

RUBY. 
3  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.;    Vz 
per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  5  per  cent  salt. 


CAMBRIC 

Cotton  cambric  is  a  fabric  woven 
with  a  plain  weave,  the  distinguishing 
effect  being  a  heavily  glazed,  smooth 
surface.  The  glossy  effect  is  obtained 
in  the  finishing  process.  The  goods 
are  somewhat  lighter  in  weight  than 
French  percale. 

When  finished  white  or  in  solid  col- 
ors they  are  used  very  extensively 

FOR   LINING  PURPOSES. 

The  name  cambric,  like  many  other 
name's  of  dry  goods,  does  not  signify 
any  special  construction  or  quality  of 
fabric,  being  made  in  both  linen  and 
cotton  materials. 

The  name  is  said  to  have  been  origi- 
nally given  to  a  very  fine,  thin  linen 
fabric  made  at  Chambrey,  or  Cam- 
brai,  in  the  department  of  Nord, 
French  Flanders. 


Cambric  is  known  in  France  as  ba- 
tiste, so  called,  it  is  said,  from  its  in- 
ventor, a  linen  weaver  na  red  Baptiste, 
of  Chambrey.  One  authority  states 
that  French  cambric  is  the  finest  linen 
fabric  miade. 

Cotton  imitations  of  the  original 
cambric  are  of  the  muslin  type  and 
are  sometimes  termed  cambric-mus- 
lin. 

The  finer  grades  of  cotton  cambrics 
are  made  from  hard  twisted  cotton 
yarns,  and  are  of  good  quality. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Any  of  the  light,  single-box  fast- 
running  looms  or  automatics  are  suit- 
able for  weaving  cambrics,  the  goods 
being  woven  white,  then  bleached  or 
piece-dyed  as  required. 

The  finest  grades,  where  mispicks 
tend  to  make  second  quality  goods, 
are  woven  on  the  regular  looms. 

Little  attention  is  paid  to  mispicks 
when  weaving  the  lower  qualities  of 
goods,  and  these  can  be  made  most 
economically  on  the  automatic  looms. 
ANALYSIS. 
An  analysis  of  a  black  cambric  of 
only  fair  quality  shows  the  following 
data:  Finished  width,  36  inches;  fin- 
ished weight,  4  yards  per  pound;  ends 
per  inch,  finished,  70;  picks  per  inch, 
finished,  54. 

The  average  number  of  the  yarns  in 
the  finished  sample  is  24,  but  on  ac- 
count of  the  starch,  clay,  or  other  fill- 
ing substance  used  in  the  finishing 
process,  the  gray  yams  would  be  finer 
than    24. 

To  obtain  the  fabric  just  mentioned, 
the  following  might  be  adopted,  both 
as  to  construction  and  finish: 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38|  inches. 
Warp  yarns,  26s  cotton.         .  .■^'  .'■:■' 
Filling  yarns,  28s  cotton.        •■■•.':•,-■: 
Eight  double  ends  on  each  side  for 
selvages. 

Total  ends,  2,536. 

Seventy  sley  reed,  2  ends  per  dent. 
Fifty-six  picks  per  inch. 
Weight,   4.3   yards   per   pound   froa 
loom. 

The  finished  and  unfinished  weights 
do  not  bear  a  direct  proportion  to  the 
average  counts  of  yarns  in  each  case 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


645 


on  account  of  the  increase  in  length  of 
the  cloth  during  the  process  of  fin- 
ishing. 

FINISHING. 

After  dyeing,  open  the  goods  out  to 
the  full  width  and  run  through  a  man 
gle   containing   the    filling   substance; 
then  dry. 

After  drying,  dampen  in  a  damping 
machine  and  run  through  a  calender. 

For  a  fine  white  cambric  the  goods 
would  be  bleached,  opened  out  to  the 
full  width,  run  through  a  starch  man- 
gle, containing  a  light  starch  or  fill- 
ing substance,  the  starch  being  blued 
to  give  the  shade  required,  dried, 
dampened  and  run  through  a  5-bowl 
calender  twice,  the  same  side  of  the 
cloth  being  presented  to  the  surface 
of  the  brass  or  steel  roll  each  time. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  cambric  is  made 
are  spun  in  mills  having  the  equip- 
ment of  the  first  and  second  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
Cambric  is  made  in  mills  or  sets  of 
mills  where  only  this  grade  of  cloth 
or  perhaps  two  or  three  other  styles 
of  cloth  of  the  same  grade  of  fabric 
are  made  and  after  the  proper  gears 
hank  roving  are  once  found  they  are 
never  changed.  In  fact,  a  machine  or 
set  of  machines  may  run  on  this  grade 
of  goods  its  whole  lifetime,  the  only 
changes  made  being  in  case  of  a 
breakdown,  or  parts  and  gears  becom- 
ing worn  out.  Cambric  is  made  from 
American  cotton,  the  length  of  the 
staple  used  being  from  I  to  1^/4 
inches.  For  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider the  staple  to  be  1  inch  in  length 
and  the  count  of  the  yarn  to  be  as 
follows:  26s  for  warp  and  28s  for  fill- 
ing. 

THE  MIXING 
is  generally  done  by  hand,  and  the 
mixings  are  always  as  large  as  pos- 
sible. In  some  mills  two  large  mix- 
ings are  made  so  that  one  can  be  dry- 
ing out  while  the  other  is  being  used. 
Better  results  are  obtained  by  the  lat- 
ter method.  The  good  sliver  waste 
from  machines  up  to  the  slubber,  ap 
well  as  the  cut -roving,  is  mixed  in  at 
the  mixing  bin.   The  cotton  is  then  put 


through  an  opener  and  either  two  or 
three  processes  of  picking,  three  proc 
esses  being  the  general  method.  The 
opener  is  either  directly  connected 
with  the  breaker  picker  or  is  connect- 
ed by  trunking;  if  by  trunking,  keep 
it  clear,  so  as  not  to  cause  fire.    The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER, 
which  is  of  either  a  two  or  three 
bladed  rigid  type,  is  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute  for  the  two-bladed,  or  1,000 
revolutions  per  minute  for  the  three- 
bladed  type.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  breaker  picker  is 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These 
are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the  in- 
termediate picker.  The  speed  of  this 
beater,  which  is  generally  of  a  rigid 
two-bladed  type,  is  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  the  total  weight  of  lap  at 
the  front  being  38  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one. 

This  picker  is  equipped  with  a  two- 
bladed  rigid  style  of  beater,  and  makes 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute,  which 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through 
about  42  blows  or  beats  per  inch,  the 
total  weight  of  lap  at  front  being  39 
pounds  or  a  14 1/^ -ounce  lap.  The  cot- 
ton is  next  put  up  at  the  card. 

THE  CARDS 
on  which  cambric  was  formerly  made 
are  to  some  extent  now  used  and  are 
known  as  the  top  flat  card.  These  are 
fast  going  out  of  date,  so  that  the 
particulars  given  below  refer  to  the 
so-called  English  card.  The  draft  for 
this  card,  for  these  goods,  should  not 
exceed  90.  The  wire  fillet  used  should 
be  100s  for  cylinder  and  110s  for  dof- 
fer  and  top  fiats.  The  speed  of  the 
cylinder  should  be  160  revolutions  per 
minute;  licker-in,  400  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  top  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  in  50  minutes. 
Grind  once  a  month.  Strip  three  times 
a  day  and  if  running  an  extra  heavy 
production,  strip  once  more.  Set  top 
flats  to  cylinder  to  a  12-lOOOths  gauge 
and  doffer  to  cylinder  to  a  7-lOOOths 
gauge.  Use  large  doffer.  The 
WEIGHT  OF  SLIVER 
at  the  front  of  the  card  should  be 
65  grains  per  yard  and  the  production 


546 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


about  750  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours.  The  card  sliver  is  next  put 
through  either  two  or  three  processes 
of  drawing,  generally  three.  The 
doublings  are  generally  six  into  one. 
The  speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  On  this  class  of 
goods  some  overseers  prefer  the  me- 
tallic top  rolls.  In  calculating  the  pro- 
duction of  a  drawing  frame  with  me- 
tallic top  rolls,  it  is  the  general  rule 
to  allow  one-third  more  than  that  fig- 
ured for  leather  rolls.  It  is  found, 
however,  that  this  is  too  great,  and  if 
the  allowance  is  cut  down  to  %  or  25 
per  cent,  it  will  he  found  about  right. 
Keep  metallic  rolls  clean  and  well 
oiled.    In  figuring 

DRAFT  OF  FRAME 

with  metallic  top  rolls,  add  7  per  cent 
when  draft  does  not  exceed  3.75,  and  9 
per  cent  when  draft  is  between  4.60  to 
7.  If  leather  top  rolls  are  used,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  they  are 
properly  oiled  and  free  from  flutes; 
they  should  be  level,  without  breaks 
in  leather,  and  the  leather  cot  should 
be  tight  and  last  should  be  varnished 
frequently.  A  good  recipe  for  a 
cooked  varnish  is  given  below:  One 
quart  vinegar,  seven  ounces  glue,  two 
teaspoons  gum  tragacanth,  borax,  size 
of  walnut,  one  teaspoon  brown  sugar. 
cook  about  an  hour.  Thicken  with 
lampblack  and  Princess  metallic.  One 
that  does  not  need  cooking  is  as  fol- 
lows: Three  ounces  glue,  one  ounce 
acetic  acid,  one-half  teaspoon  brown 
sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  oil  origanum. 
Dissolve  and  add  color;  add  one- 
half  teaspoon  of  borax  in  hot  weather. 
The  bottom  steel  rolls  should  be  set 
as  follows:  Front  roll  to  second,  1% 
inches;  second  to  third,  !§  Inches; 
third  roll  to  back,  1%  inches.  The 
weight  of  sliver  at  the  front  of  the 
finisher  drawing  should  be  70  grains 
per  yard.  This  is  put  through  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .40  hank  rov- 
ing.     The 

SLUBBER  ROVING 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  being 
as  follows:  First  Intermediate,  1.75, 
and  second  intermediate,  5;  the  set- 
ting of  the  bottom  steel  rolls  at  each 


process  being  1  1-16  inches  from  front 
to  middle  and  IM  inches  from  middle 
to  back.  The  roving  is  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room  and  spun  into  26s 
yarn  on  a  warp  frame  having  the  fol- 
lowing particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,. 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  in- 
ches; twist  per  inch,  24.22;  length  of 
traverse,  6 14;  revolutions  per  minute 
of  spindles,  9,200.  The  yarn  is  next 
spooled  and  then  warped,  after  which 
it  is  put  through  a  slasher.  On  this 
class  of  goods  a  heavy  sizing  is  used. 
The  roving  is  spun  into  28s  yam  on 
a  filling  frame  with  a  2% -inch  gauge^ 
of  frame;  Ig-inch  diameter  ring;  6- 
inch  traverse;  17.20  twist  per  inch; 
revolutions  per  minute  of  spindle,  7,- 
300.  This  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the 
steam  chest  or  put  through  some  other 
process  which  prepares  it  for  weaving,. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

Cambrics  are  dyed  in  the  jig  ma- 
chine or  the  continuous  machine.  The 
fancy  colors  are  dyed  on  the  jig.  After 
dyeing,  the  pieces  are  starched  with  a 
light  starch  and  calendered  through  a 
heavy  calender. 

BLACKS. 

One-dip  salt  black,  6  per  cent  oxy- 
diamine   black   SAT.;    30   per  cent 
Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SULPHUR    BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N.; 
10   per   cent   sodium   sulphide;    5   per 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
BOTTLE    GREEN. 

Ten  per  cent  thionol  dark  green;  2 
per  cent  thionol  yellow;    15   per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30   per  cent  common  salt. 
PEA  GREEN. 

Two  per  cent  immedial  green  B  B.; 
2  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY  BLUB. 

Three  per  cent  direct  indigo  blue  B 
EM.;  15  per  cent  salt;  2^  per  cent 
frankhansine. 

DARK  SLATE. 

One  per  cent  Pluto  black  S  S.;  40 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  2  per  cent 
soda  asb. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


647 


BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  tetranil  brown  O.;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda 
asb. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  tetrazo  yellow  M. ; 

1  per  cent  tetranil  brown  O.;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

OLD  GOLD. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.;   Yz  per  cent  diamine  bronze  G. ;   30 
per  cent   Glauber's;    3   per   cent   soda 
ash. 

SLATE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H.; 

2  ounces   diamine  yellow   B.;    30   per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

MAROON. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B.;  10 
per  cent  sulphide  soda;  5  per  cent  so 
da  ash;   35  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  green  GG. ; 
10    per   cent   sulphide   sodium;    3    per 
cent  soda  ash;   35  per  cent  salt. 

BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  new  blue  G. ; 
20   per   cent   sulphide   sodium;    5    per 
cent  soda  ash;   40  per  cent  salt. 

ECRU 
Three  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G. ; 
4  per  cent  sulphide  soda;    3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
SCARLET. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.;  30 
per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  fast  scarlet  8 
B  S.;   1  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R, ; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One-half   per    cent   Erika   pink;    20 
per    cent    Glauber's;    2    per    cent    sal 
soda. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F 
F. ;  25  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  violet  N. ;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 


TIRE  FABRICS 


Tire  fabrics  are,  as  the  name  im- 
plies, used  for  automobile,  bicycle  and 
other  vehicle  tires. 

They  are  not  actually  tires  them- 
selves, but  form  the  base  or  founda- 
tion of  some  kinds  of  composition  and 
pneumatic  rubber  tires. 

Like  other  terms  denoting  the  use 
to  which  the  fabric  is  to  be  subjected, 
as  quiltings,  bedspreads,  shirtings, 
etc.,  the  term  tire  fabrics  covers  a 
wide  range  of  weights  and  qualities. 

The  stock  used  in  the  warps  for 
these  goods  is  of  good  quality,  al- 
though the  single  yarns  used  are  not 
of  very  high  counts. 

The  weights  vary  considerably, 
ranging  from  about  three  to  20  ounces 
per  square  yard.  In  one  type  of  goods 
this  excessive  variation  is  due  almost 
exclusively  to  the  ply  warp  yarns, 
which  vary  from  2  to  12  ply,  from  sin,- 
gle  yarns  varying  from  about  8s  to 
40s,  according  to  the  weight  required. 
This  type  of  tire  fabric  is  termed 
thread    fabric. 

ANALYSIS. 

The  analyses  of  two  tire  (thread) 
fabrics  of  widely  varying  weights  show 
the  following  data:       * 

Sample  No.  1.  Warp  ends  per  inch 
in  reed,  16.  Reed,  16;  one  end  in  each 
dent. 

Warp  yarn,  11-ply  9s  cotton. 

Filling:  One  pick  per  inch  of  sin- 
gle 40s  cotton. 

Finished  weight  per  square  yard, 
13.5  ounces. 

The  weave  is  plain.  The  drawing  Is 
in  straight  order. 

One  peculiarity  of  this  class  of  tire 
fabrics,  which  will  be  noticed  from  the 
preceding  data,  is  that  the  filling  is 
used  merely  to  keep  the  warp  yams 
in  position,  not  being  needed  to  give 
strength  to  the  cloth. 

Sample  No.  2.  Warp  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  68. 

Reed,  17;  4  ends  in  each  dent. 

Warp   yarn,  2-ply  24s  cotton. 

Filling:  One  pick  of  40s  filling  ev- 
ery  three-quarters   of  an   inch. 

Finished  weight  per  square  yard, 
3.9   ounces. 


548 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  ends  in  Sample  No.  2  were 
drawn  2  as  1  through  each  heddle  eye, 
in  straight  order,  two  picks  complet- 
ing the  weave  as  in  an  ordinary  plain 
cloth. 

For  a  better  quality  of  fabric  with 
the  same  construction  the  yarns  would 
have  been  drawn  in  straight  order, 
reeded  two     ends   in   each     dent,   as 


1 

Fig.    1. 

shown  by  the  vertical  lines  in  Fig.  1, 
and  actuated  as  indicated  by  chain 
draft   Fig.   2. 

X  X 

Fig.    2. 

By  this  arrangement  the  ends  work- 
ing together  would  have  been  split  or 
separated  with  the  reed  and  prevented 
from  rolling  over  each  other. 

If  woven  on  a  cam  loom  working 
four  harnesses,  the  drawing  in  and 
reeding  would  be  as  indicated  in  Fig. 


1 

Fig.    3. 

3,  and  the  lifting  of  the  harnesses  as 
indicated  in  Fig.<4 


Fig.    4. 

Reed  ends  at  lines  in  Fig.  3,  two 
ends  in  each  dent. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Tire  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  heavy 
ordinary  one-shuttle  cam  or  dobby 
looms,  there  being  but  one  warp  and 
one  filling,  provided  provision  is  made 
for  the  proper  regulation  of  the  let- 
off  and  take-up  motions. 

On  the  heavy  grades  of  goods,  it  is 
advisable  to  fold  the  woven  fabric  as 
it  is  made,  instead  of  running  it  on  a 
cloth  roller,  on  account  of  the  large 
yardage  produced  in  a  short  time. 

The  two  samples  analyzed  were 
woven  on  a  heavy  loom  running  about 
90  picks  per  minute. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

In  a  previous  article  the  cotton  mills 
were  divided  into  three  divisions, 
each  division  having  a  different  equip- 
ment of  machinery.  The  mills  that 
make  tire  fabrics  do  not  come  under 
the  head  of  any  of  these  divisions,  but 
may  be  classed  among  those  having  a 
special  equipment.  This  is  on  ac- 
count of  the  extra  length  of  staple 
used,  which  is  very  rarely  less  thau 
11/^  inches,  and  from  this  up  to  the 
longest  staple  grown,  2%  inches.  The 
stock  is,  of  course.  Sea  Island.  It  will 
therefore  be  readily  understood  that 
the  machines  in  use  in  the  other  di- 
visions of  mills,  having  drawing  rolls, 
such  as  drawing  frames,  slubbers,  fly 
frames,  etc.,  could  not  spread  the  bot- 
tom steel  rolls  the  required  distance, 
so  as  not  to  break  the  staple.  In  or- 
der to  do  this,  specially  constructed 
frames  have  to  be  obtained,  which  al- 
low this  spread  of  rolls. 

ANOTHER  POINT 
is  that  the  one  main  object  sought  is 
strength  and  this  is  the  chief  reason 
why  long  staple  is  used,  the  counts  of 
yarn  being  extremely  low  for  the 
length  of  the  stock,  i.  e.,  2-24s  warp 
and  40s  filling,  so  that  the  additional 
points  that  should  be  looked  out  for, 
besides  those  that  will  be  given  be- 
low, are  to  see  that  the  top  clearers 
cover  all  the  top  rolls,  that  the  spread 
of  the  rolls  is  enough  so  that  the  sta- 
ple will  not  be  broken,  and  that  the 
traverse  motion  is  in  perfect  shape 
and  working  properly. 

As  it  is  strength  that  is  sought,  the 
cotton  is 

GENERALLY  COMBED 
to  get  all  short  staple  out,  but  some- 
times the  stock  is  only  carded.  When 
carded,  the  carding  should  be  light  or, 
better  still,  double  carding  should  be 
used.  In  this  article  we  will  consider 
the  yarn  to  be  combed.  The  mixing 
should  be  done  by  hand,  the  cotton  be- 
ing first  stapled  to  see  that  it  is  up  to 
standard,  which  for  this  article  will 
be  considered  as  12  inches.  The  cot- 
ton, after  being  allowed  to  dry  out,  is 
put  through  an  opener  and  either  one 
or  two  processes  of  picking,  generally 
one.  If  one  process  is  used,  the  lattice 


A  COTTON  t*ABRICS  GLOSSARY 


64d 


Is  marked  off  into  sections  of  one  yard 
each  and  an  equal  amount  of  cotton 
put  onto  each  section  to  make  the  re- 
quired weight  lap  in  front.  If  two 
processes  are  used,  the  opener  is  com- 
bined with  the  breaker  picker.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of  the  breaker 
picker  should  be  about  850  revolutions 
per  minute  for  a  two-bladed  rigid 
type.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  should  be  32  pounds  or  an 
81/^-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled 
four  into  one  at  the  finisher  picker; 
the  speed  of  this  beater  should  be  800 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  lap  at  the  front  should  be 
27  pounds  or  a  9-ounce  lap.  A  varia- 
tion of  not  over  6  ounces  either  side 
of  standard  should  be  allowed.  All 
laps  outside  this  variation  should  be 
run  over.    The  picker  laps  are  put  up 

AT   THE    CARD. 

On  this  class  of  work  the  draft  of  the 
card  should  not  be  less  than  140  and 
from  this  up  to  180.  The  wire  fillet 
used  should  be  No.  120s  for  the  cylin- 
der and  No.  130s  for  the  doffer  and  top 
flats.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder  should 
be  160  revolutions  per  minute,  licker- 
in  200  revolutions  per  minute,  and  top 
fiats  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  35  minutes.  Cards  should 
be  stripped  three  times  a  day,  al- 
though some  overseers  claim  that 
stripping  of  the  cylinder  twice  and  the 
doffer  three  times  a  day  is  plenty. 
The  cards  should  be  ground  once  a 
month  or  oftener  if  wire  is  dull.  For 
this  class  of  goods  keep  wire  fillet  as 
sharp  as  possible.  Use  close  settings 
except  that  of  the  feed  plate  to  the 
licker-in,  which  should  be  set  so  as 
not  to  break  the  staple.  Pull  the  sta- 
ple at  the  back  and  front  of  card  at 
least  once  a  day  to  see  that  the  length 
of  staple  is  the  same  in  both  places. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
should  be  from  35  to  45  grains  per 
yard,  45   grains  being  a  good  weight. 

THE  PRODUCTION 
should  be  about  300  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  Keep  front  of  card  clean, 
so  that  the  short  fly,  etc.,  will  not  get 
into  the  good  carded  cotton.  The  cot- 
ton is  next  put  through  the  sliver  lap 
machine,  where  it  is  doubled  20  into  1 


for  a  10  ly^ -inch  lap,  or  14  into  1  for 
an  83-inch  lap.  We  will  consider  that 
the  lap  being  made  is  a  10 1/^ -inch  lap 
used  on  an  eight-head  comber.  Set 
the  bottom  steel  rolls  as  follows: 
Front  roll  to  middle,  2  inches;  mid- 
dle roll  to  back,  2i/^  inches.  In  comb- 
ing this  cotton,  the  instructions  given 
in  a  previous  lesson  may  be  followed 
with  the  following  exceptions.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  lap  per  yard  is 
275  grains;  at  the  ribbon  lap  260 
grains  per  yard.  The  cotton  lap  is  next 
put  through  the  comber.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE   COMBER 

for  this  stock  should  be  about  85  nips 
per  minute.  The  doublings  are  8  into 
1  (for  an  eight-head  comber).  The 
percentage  of  waste  taken  out  is  from 
25  to  30.  Use  close  settings,  18  from 
half  lap  to  segment  and  21  from  top 
comb  to  segment.  The  sliver  at  the 
cam  should  weigh  45  grains.  After 
the  comber  use  three  processes  of 
drawing,  the  spread  of  the  rolls  being 
as  follows:  1|  inches  from  front  to 
second;  2  inches  from  second  to  third 
roll;  21/4  inches  from  third  to  back 
roll.  Look  to  the  top  leather  covered 
rolls  to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect 
shape  and  properly  varnished.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  drawing  should  be  60 
grains  per  yard.  The  doublings  at  the 
drawing  should  be  6  into  1.  At  the 
slubber  this  drawing  should  be  made 
into  .70   hank  roving.     At  this  frame 

SEVERAL  CHANGES 

are  made,  which  are  as  follows:  The 
top  leather  rolls  are  varnished,  some- 
times all  three  sets,  and  sometimes 
only  the  front  rolls.  The  size  of  the 
front  leather  roll  is  sometimes  in- 
creased to  lYz  inches.  This  is  to  help 
prevent  the  roving  "licking  up"; 
when  this  is  done,  top  clearers  simi- 
lar to  those  on  mules  are  used. 
The  slubber  roving  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fiy  frames  and  made 
into  the  following  hank  roving:  2.25 
at  the  first  intermediate  and  5  at  the 
second  for  the  40s  cotton,  and  for  the 
24s  cotton  the  hank  roving  at  each 
frame  is  as  follows:  2.25  at  +he  first 
and  8  at  the  second  intermediaie. 


5^0 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  spread  of  the  rolls  should  he  as 
follows:  Front  to  middle,  11  inches; 
middle  to  back,  2  inches.  It  should 
be  understood  that  when  giving  the 
spread  of  the  rolls,  the  distance  is 
from  center  to  center.  The  warp  yarn 
is  then  spun  into  24s  on  a  warp  frame 
having  a  2-inch  diameter  ring  and  a 
7-inch  traverse.  Some  overseers  give 
a  little  more  than  standard  twist  to 
this  yarn.  The  yam  is  then  put 
through  the  spooler  and  from  here  to 
the  twister,  where  it  is  made  into  2- 
ply  yarn.  From  here  it  is  put  through 
the  warper  and  the  slasher.  The  fill- 
ing yarns  may  be  either  mule  or  ring 
spun;  if  spun  on  a  ring  frame  for  40s, 
yarn,  use  a  Ig-inch  ring  and  5% -inch 
traverse.  This  yarn  is  then  condition- 
ed, when  it  is  ready  to  weave. 


PLAIN  and  PLAIDED  NAINSOOK 

Nainsook  is  a  light  cotton  fabric, 
utilized  for  numerous  purposes,  such 
as  infants'  clothes,  women's  dress 
goods,  lingerie,  half  curtains  for  din- 
ing rooms,  bathrooms  and  for  various 
other  purposes.  The  striped  or  plaided 
nainsook  is  used  for  the  same  pur- 
poses as  the  plain  fabric,  depending 
upon  the  tastes  of  the  consumer. 
Where  the  fabric  is  required  for  lin- 
gerie and  infants'  wear,  the  English 
finished  fabric  is  selected  because  of 
its  softness.  When  intended  for  cur- 
tains or  dress  fabrics  the  French  fin- 
ished fabric  is  chosen;  the  latter  fin- 
ish consists  of  slightly  stiffening  and 
calendering  the  fabric. 

The  name  nainsook  is  derived  from 
the  Hindoo  Nainsukh  and  was  original- 
ly defined  as  a  stout  India  muslin,  man- 
ufactured in  India. 

The  fabric  as  manufactured  to-day 
may  be  distinguished  from  fine  lawns, 
fine  grades  of  batiste  and  fine  cam- 
brics from  the  fact  that  it  has  not  as 
firm  construction,  or  as  much  body, 
and  the  finished  fabric  is  not  as 
smooth  nor  as  stiff,  but  inclines  to 
softness,  principally  because  it  has 
not  the  body  to  retain  the  finishing 
materials  used  in  finishing  the  fabric; 
consequently  it  must  needs  be  a 
cheaper  article  than  the  fabrics  above 


mentioned.  Nainsook,  like  most  cot- 
ton fabrics,  is  made  in  several  grades, 
the  different  grades  being  affected  by 
the  counts  of  yarns  used,  which  in 
turn  influence  the  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  in  the  construction. 
ANALYSIS. 
Width  of  warp  in  reed,  30 ^^  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  28i/i   inches; 

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Fig.  L 


DBBBGBDBDB 
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Flff.  2. 


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riff.  3. 

ends  per  inch  in  reed,  82,  reeded  2  in  1 
dent;  ends  per  inch  finished,  86;  ends 
in  body,  2,460,  plus  40  ends  selvage, 
equals  2,500,  total  ends  in  warp;  take- 
up  during  weaving,  5  per  cent;  weight 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


551 


of  fabric,  1^^  ounces  per  yard;  warp 
yarn,  l-50s  cotton;  filling  yarn,  l-64s 
cotton;  66  picks  per  inch  in  loom;  64 
picks  per  inch  finished.  Fig.  1,  de- 
sign; Fig.  2,  chain  draft;  Fig.  3,  draw- 
ing-in   draft. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Nainsook,  like  various  other  one- 
filling  fabrics  of  the  character  under 
discussion,  may  be  woven  on  any 
light,  single  box,  high  speed  loom. 

Plaided  nainsook  seems  to  imply 
the  use  of  more  than  one  filling,  the 
plaid,  however,  is  formed  by  the 
weave.    See  design  Fig.  1. 

FINISHING. 

This  fabric  is  given  either  what  may 
be  termed  an  English  or  a  French 
finish.  By  the  former  finish  the  fabric, 
after  it  comes  from  the  loom,  is  boil- 
ed off,  then  bleached,  after  which  it  is 
softened  by  immersing  in  a  light  solu- 
tion of  glycerine,  or  cocoanut  oil,  and 
flour  or  farina,  after  which  it  Is  dried 
by  passing  over  heated  cylinders,  then 
run  through  a  rotary  press  with  very 
light  pressure.  In  the  French  finish, 
after  -the  fabric  is  bleached,  it  is  stif- 
fened by  immersing  in  a  solution  of 
size,  composed  of  the  following  ingre- 
dients: flour,  wax  and  gelatine,  after 
which  the  fabric  is  dried,  then  slightly 
sprinkled  with  water,  then  run  through 
the  calender,  which  completes  the  fin- 
ishing process. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

One  mill  making  the  above  style  of 
fabric  makes  its  warp  and  filling  yarn 
as  described  below.  This  mill  is  in- 
cluded in  the  second  division  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  Its  equipment 
includes  both  combers  and  a  bale 
breaker.  The  stock  used  is  1^4 -inch 
good  quality  Allen  seed  cotton.  The 
cotton  is  put  through  three  processes 
of  picking  and  an  opener.  The  opener 
is  connected  with  the  breaker  picker. 
This  picker  is  provided  with  a  two- 
bladed  rigid  type  of  beater,  which  ro- 
tates at  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of 
this  beater  is  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce 
lap.   These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  in- 


termediate picker  and  doubled  4  Into 
1.  This  picker  Is  also  provided  with 
a  two-bladed,  rigid  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  of  this  picker  is  38  pounds 
or  a  12 1^ -ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at  this  point 
that  the  cut-roving  waste  is  mixed  in, 
it  having  first  been  put  through  a 
roving  picker  and  a  picker  to  form  it 
into  a  lap. 

THESE  ROVING  LAPS 

are  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock  in 
proportion  of  three  laps  raw  stock  to 
one  lap  cut  waste.  The  beater  used  on 
this  picker  is  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type 
and  its  speed  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  the  picker  about  42  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  is  36  pounds  or  a 
12^^ -ounce  lap.  The  laps  are  next  put 
up  at  the  card.  This  card  is  provided 
with  a  26-inch  doffer.  The  speed  of 
the  licker-in  is  350  revolutions  per 
minute,  flats  one  revolution  every  43 
minutes.  The  draft  is  100.  Cards  are 
stripped  three  times  a  day,  ground 
twice  a  month,  and  the  wire  fillet  used 
is  No.  34s  for  the  cylinder  and  36s  for 
the  doffer  and  flats.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the  card  is 
50  grains  and  the  production  is  600 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  This 
mill  is  equipped  with  6-head,  8|-inch 
lap  combers. 

THE  SLIVER 

from  the  card  is  doubled  14  into  1  at 
the  sliver  lap  machine  and  the  weight 
of  the  lap  is  320  grains.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  and 
doubled  6  into  1,  the  weight  per  yard 
at  the  front  being  275  grains.  These 
are  put  up  at  the  comber  and  doubled 
6  into  1,  the  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
can  being  40  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  comber  is  90  nips  per  min- 
ute and  18  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken 
out.  The  sliver  is  then  put  through 
two  processes  of  metallic  top  roll 
drawing  frames,  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  being  70 
grains  per  yard.  The  speed  of  the 
front  roll  is  375  revolutions  per  min- 


552 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ute.  The  drawing  is  then  put  up  at 
the  slubber  and  drawn  into  .55  hank 
roving.  This  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames  and 
made  into  the  following  hank  roving 
at  each  frame:  First  intermediate  1.50, 
second  4,  and  jack  frame  12  hank.  The 
bottom   steel   roll 

SETTINGS 
are  as  follows:  Front  to  second,  li 
inches;  second  to  back,  1^/^  inches. 
The  front  top  rolls  of  the  slubber  are 
varnished.  The  roving  is  next  taken 
up  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
made  into  64s  for  filling  and  50s  for 
warp.  For  spinning  50s  warp  yarn  use 
a  frame  having  2%-inch  gauge,  l^^- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch  traverse, 
and  put  in  31.71  turns  or  twists  per 
inch.  The  spindle  speed  is  10,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
put  through  a  spooler  and  a  warper 
and  then  a  slasher.  The  filling  frame 
to  spin  64s  should  have  a  2% -inch 
gauge,  li^-inch  diameter  ring,  5-inch 
traverse,  27  twists  per  inch  and  a 
spindle  speed  of  7,700  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  is  taken  to  the  con- 
ditioning room  and  then  it  is  ready  to 
be  woven. 

■*-»-¥ 

SPOT  and  STRIPES 

Produced  by  Means  of  an  Extra  Warp. 

The  spot  or  stripe  may  be  effected 
by  the  weave  alone  or  by  means  of  ex- 
tra warp  and  filling.  The  latter  meth- 
od of  constructing  these  fabrics  will 
be  considered.  Fabrics  of  this  charac- 
ter are  made  in  a  variety  of  qualities 
— from  an  "all  cotton"  to  a  very  fine 
woolen  or  worsted  fabric.  The  elab- 
oration of  the  spot  or  stripe  is  largely 
influenced  by  the  material  used  in  the 
body  of  the  fabric.  The  rule  with 
few  exceptions  is,  the  finer  the  qual- 
ity of  the  material,  the  more  elaborate 
is  the  stripe  or  spot. 

THE  SPOT  PATTERN. 
The  spot  is  effected  by  floating  the 
extra  warp  or  filling  yarn  on  the  back 
of  the  goods  for  a  given  space,  then 
raising  the  extra  yam  to  the  face  of 
the  fabric  for  a  given  number  of  picks. 
The  size  of  the  spot  depends  on  the 


number  of  picks  or  ends  which  the 
extra  yarn  floats  over,  which  may  be 
only  one,  two  or  more  picks  or  ends. 
This,  of  course,  is  the  simplest  form 
of  the  spot  pattern. 

The  simplicity  of  this  method  of 
construction  lends  itself  readily  to 
some  very  neat  effects  in  small  spot 
patterns;  for  example,  by  using  dif- 
ferent colored  yarns  for  the  spot,  ar- 
ranged   in   some    order,   on    a   ground 


Fig.   1. 

composed  of  a  4  x  4  herringbone 
weave,  with  ground  color  scheme  as 
follows:  4  ends  green,  4  ends  black,  4 
ends  brown,  4  ends  black,  with  the 
same  arrangement  in  the  filling.  The 
spot  yarn  may  be  composed  of  sev- 
eral colors,  as,  for  instance,  red,  white 
and  yellow. 

In  making  the  spot,  with  extra  warr 
yarn  only,  the  spot  yarn  is  usually  di- 
rectly under  the  lightest  ground  coloi 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


563 


and  forms  the  spot  at  the  junction  of 
light  ground  colors,  referring  tc 
ground  color  scheme  given  above. 

The  spot  yarn  comes  to  the  face  of 
the  fabric  where  green  crosses  green 
for  two  picks,  then  floats  on  back 
until  the  alternate  crossing  of  green. 
This  form  of  spot  is  operated  on  but 
two  harnesses.  The  more  elaborate 
spot  is  formed  on  the  same  principle 
as  the  small  two-pick  spot  just  men- 
tioned; the  elaboration  consists  of  the 
use  of  more  ends.  These  ends  are  wo- 
ven in  in  the  form  of  a  figure,  which 
requires  the  use  of  from  4  to  12  har- 
nesses and  more,  in  order  to  form  the 
spot.  These  large  spots  are  usually 
woven  on  a  plain  ground  weave.  The 
pattern  would  be  read:  1  end  of 
ground,  1  end  of  figure  or  extra  yam. 
The  figure  could  be  removed  without 
affecting  the  ground  weave,  by  reason 
of  the  fact  that  the  spot  is  formed  en- 
tirely by  extra  yarn.  The  spots  are  w'O- 
ven  in  the  cloth  in  some  order;  for 
instance,  they  may  be  based  on  any 
satin,  broken  twill,  or  plain  weave  or- 
der. 

Fig.  1  is  a  sample  of  spot  pattern 
formed  by  extra  warp  yarn. 

RAISED   STRIPE   PLAID. 

These  fabrics  are  much  in  use  as  a 
dress  fabric  for  children  and  are  made 
in  all  cotton,  worsted  and  cotton,  and 
all-worsted,  with  the  exception  of  the 
raised  stripe,  which  is  usually  mer- 
cerized cotton  or  silk. 

■■■OB 

£!!■■■ 

■■■oaa 
■■■■■a 

Fig.   2. 

The  raised  stripe  is  formed  by  the 
use  of  partially  extra  yarn  in  both 
warp  and  filling,  that  is  to  say,  if  a 
stripe  is  formed  with  12  ends,  these  12 
ends  would  be  reeded  so  as  to  take 
the  place  of  only  8  ground  ends;  for 
example,  if  ground  is  reeded  2  in  1 
dent,  the  stripe  is  reeded  3  in  1  dent. 

If   we   use   for   ground   weave    ' 

3 

twill,  the  raised  stripe  must  be  a 
weave  that  is  divisible  by  3 — the  num- 


ber of  ends  in  the  repeat  of  ground 
weave;  in  order  to  produce  perfect 
stitching,  a  6-end  irregular  satin 
would  be  required. 

In  laying  out  the  pattern,   or  color 
arrangement,   it   should    be    observed 
Top. 


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that  the  pattern  is  divisible  by  6,  and 
that  the  number  of  ends  between  the 
raised  stripes  in  both  warp  and  filling 


654 


A  COTTON  FABHICS  GLOSSARY 


is  divisible  by  6,  otherwise  imperfect 

stitching  will  result  when  using  a  * 

twill  for  ground  weave. 

These  fabrics  are  made   in   various 
widths;  the  cotton  goods  are  set  usu- 


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ally  at  38  inches  in  reed,  and  finish  at 
36  inches. 

ANALYSIS. 

1,000 — 2   reed;    picks   54,   with   stop 
take-up. 


Vi'^ARP    AND    FILLING    PATTERN. 

36  ends  bleach    cotton. 

4 — 6  ends  blue  cotton   mercerized. 

6  ends  bleach. 

4 — 6  ends  blue. 

6  ends  bleach. 

4 — 6  ends  blue. 

30  ends  scarlet. 

12  ends  green,    start   12. 

4  ends  black. 

2  ends  bleach. 

4 — 6  ends  scarlet. 

2  ends  bleach. 

4  ends  black. 

12  ends  green,    end   12. 

30  ends  scarlet. 

4 — 6  ends  blue. 

6  ends  bleach. 

4 — 6  ends  blue. 

6  ends  bleach. 

4 — 6  ends  blue. 

198 

14  ends  extra    yarn    for   stripe. 

184 

Fig.  3  required  chain  draft. 
Fig.   4  drawing-in  draft. 


Ends  In  warp. 
7  08   bleach 
660  scarlet 
288   green 
396   blue 

72   scarlet 
144   black 


2,268 


Ends  in  pattern. 

64  2-40  cotton. 

60  2-40  cotton. 

24  2-40  cotton. 

36  2-40  mercerized  cotton. 

6  2-40  mercerized  cotton. 

8  2-40  mercerized  cotton. 

198  ends  in   1  pattern. 


2,268    total    ends    In    warp. 

The  pattern  shows  that  we  have  198 
ends  and  picks  taking  up  the  space 
required  for  184,  or  14  ends  and  picks 
of  extra  yarn  in  each  pattern  require 
average  picks  per  inch  in  fabric:  54 
pick  wheel— 198  in  place  of  184;  184  : 
198  :   :  54  :  X  equals  58  picks. 

To  calculate  filling  material  re- 
quired for  10  yards  of  cloth: 

PATTERN. 

64  A 

60  B 

24  C 

36  D 

6  E 

8  F 

198 

184 
38  Inches  In  reed. 
54   pick    wheel. 


2,052 


by    184 


11.15    average   yards   of 
yarn  of  colors  in  1  yd. 


11.15 
10  yds. 


111.50 

5.58  6%   added  for  wast*. 


1X7.08 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


656 


117.08 

"Weight 

<4 

of  each 

color. 

-  7.13  ozs. 

7,493.12  yds. 

of  color 

A— 

7.024.80  yds. 

of  color 

B- 

-  6.66  ozs. 

2,809.92  yds. 

of  color 

C- 

-  2.66  ozs. 

4,214.88  yds. 

of  color 

D- 

-  4.01  ozs. 

702.48  yds. 

of  color 

E- 

-     .70  ozs. 

936.64  yds. 

of  color 

F- 

-     .90  ozs. 

22.06  ozs. 

of  filling 

for 

10      yds. 

of    cl 

loth. 

2-40s   mercerized   fill 

ing 

=    16,800 

yards  to 

1    pound. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
These  fabrics  require  the  use  of  box 
looms;  a  4  X  1  or  6  X  1,  or  pick  and 
pick  loom,  that  is,  a  4  x  4  box  loom,  is 
much  used.  If  6  colors  are  in  the  warp 
pattern,  a  6  x  1  box  dobby  loom  should 
be  used.  In  the  cheaper  grade  of  plaids 


cotton  fabrics  are  usually  given  a  dry 
finish — simply  run  through  a  rotary 
press  with  slightly  heated  cylinders, 
and  slightly  steamed  before  passing 
over  the  cylinder  of  the  press — after 
which  they  are  made  up  into  small 
rolls,  then  shipped. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  making  the  yarn  for  these 
fabrics  will  be  found  in  either  the 
first  or  second  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  article. 

The  yarns  of  which  this  class  of 
goods  is  made  vary  a  great  deal,  some 
of  the  finer  ones  being  combed.  For 
this  article  we  will  consider  the  warp 


^m 


Stop    Peg    Check. 


a  6-color  warp  pattern  is  sometimes 
filled  with  only  4  colors;  this  neces- 
sitates that  one  filling  color  covers 
two  warp  colors.  A  little  discretion 
along  this  line  will  enable  the  man- 
ufacturer to  use  a  4  X  1  box  loom 
where  a  6  x  1  should  be  used.  This, 
however,  is  only  practiced  in  the 
cheaper  grade  of  fabrics. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics,  if  made  with  worsted 
are  given  a  light  scouring,  then  press- 
ed. In  the  large  spot  patterns  the 
extra  yarn  that  floats  on  the  back, 
when  not  forming  the  spot,  is  cut  off 
by  means  of  a  shearing  machine.  The 


and  filling  to  be  carded  2-40s  yarn 
made  from  a  1  3-16-inch  staple  peeler 
cotton  of  a  good  grade.  The  raw  stock 
is  mixed  by  hand,  although,  if  done 
by  a  bale  breaker,  it  is  better,  as  has 
been  before  stated;  especially  is  this 
true  in  rainy  or  muggy  weather.  The 
mixings  should  be  as  large  as  possible 
and  the  hands  mixing  the  cotton 
should  break  the  bale  into  as  small 
parts  as  possible. 

IN  HAND  MIXING 

several  bales  should  be  opened  at 
once,  and  the  cotton  from  each  mixed 
together.  At  this  point  the  sliver 
w^9te  is  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock. 


556 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


This  should  be  thoroughly  spread  over 
the  entire  mixing.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  an  opener  and  three  proc- 
esses of  picking.  Always  lieep  hopper 
of  opener  more  than  half  filled  with 
cotton,'  so  as  to  obtain  as  even  a  feed 
as  possible. 

After  passing  through  the  opener 
the  cotton  is  fed  on  to  an  endless  lat- 
tice, which  carries  it  to  the  feed  rolls 
of  the  breaker  picker.  These  con- 
dense the  cotton  and  present  it  to  the 
action  of  the  beater.  This  beater  is 
generally  the  two-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater  and  its  speed  is  1,550  revolu- 
tions per  minute.     Look  at  the 

GRID  BARS 

to  see  that  they  are  properly  spread 
and  the  dirt  is  going  through  them 
and  not  being  drawn  into  the  cotton 
again  after  being  knocked  out  by  the 
beater.  Do  not  allow  the  dirt  to  col- 
lect under  picker,  especially  under  the 
grid  bars,  as  it  is  liable  to  be  drawn 
into  the  cleaned  cotton  by  the  draft. 
The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  of 
the  breaker  is  40  pounds  or  a  16i/4- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled  4 
into  1.  This  picker  is  also  generally 
provided  with  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater,  whose  speed  is  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker 
is  38  pounds,  or  a  12i/^-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the 

CUT-ROVING  WASTE 
is  mixed  in.  If  the  mill  contains  a 
cut-roving  waste  picker  the  propor- 
tion of  mixing  is  as  follows:  Three 
laps  raw  stock  to  one  lap  cut  roving. 
If,  however,  there  is  no  such  machine, 
the  two  center  laps  are  taken  out  and 
the  cut  roving  spread  evenly  over  the 
surface  of  the  last  lap.  This  will,  of 
course,  bring  the  waste  between  two 
laps  of  raw  stock.  The  beater  of  this 
machine  is  a  rigid,  two-bladed  beater 
and  makes  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, which  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  the  machine  41%  beats  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  this  lap 
at  the  front  is  36i^  pounds  or  a  12- 
Oimce  lap.    The  variation  allowed  for 


this  kind  of  work  is  one-half  pound 
either  side  of  standard.  Laps  weigh- 
ing over  or  under  this  variation  are 
put  back  to  be  run  over  again.  These 
laps  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD.      • 

This  card  should  have  a  draft  of  not 
less  than  100.  The  end  is  set  for  me- 
dium work  and  uses  the  medium  count 
of  wire  fillet  for  wiring  doffer  flats 
and  cylinders.  Set  the  doffer  (which 
should  be  as  large  as  possible)  from 
the  cylinder  with  a  7-1,000-inch  gauge. 
The  flats  of  the  cards  should  make 
one  complete  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes. The  cards  should  be  cleaned 
thoroughly  twice  a  day  and  the  front 
wiped  off  many  times  more,  to  keep 
fly  from  falling  back  into  good  work. 
Strips  should  be  collected  at  regular 
intervals  which  should  not  be  so  long 
apart  as  to  allow  the  fly  to  accumulate 
so  that  it  is  liable  to  fall  over  on  the 
doffer  or  be  drawn  up  into  the  flats. 
This  it  cannot  do  if  cards  are  equipped 
with  a  waste  roll.  The  sliver  at  the 
front  should  weigh  60  grains  per  yard 
and  the  production  should  be  about  750 
pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.  Strip 
cards  three  times  a  day  (twice  in 
morning  and  once  in  afternoon)  and 
grind  all  over  once  every  three  weeks. 

DRAWING. 
The  cotton  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames. 
These  frames  may  be  equipped  with 
leather  top  rolls  or  metallic  top  rolls. 
If  the  former,  be  sure  to  see  that  the 
rolls  are  well  covered  and  in  perfect 
condition  and  well  varnished.  The 
frames  should  at  least  receive  a  set 
of  front  top  rolls  every  week.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  should  be  about 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  The  frames 
may  be  equipped  with  metallic  rolls 
to  good  advantage  and,  if  they  are, 
care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  flutes 
free  from  dirt  of  all  kinds.  The  weight 
of  the  drawing  sliver  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  drawing  frame  should  be 
75  grains  per  yard.  The  cans  of  sliv- 
er are  put  up  to  the  slubber  and 
spun  into  .50  hank  roving.  Varnish 
the  front  loose  top  rolls  of  the  slubber. 
The  other  sets  of  top  rolls  may  also 
h©  varnished,  but  they  are  not  so  iHx- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


657 


portant.  Keep  rolls  properly  covered, 
oiled  and  weighted.  Look  out  to  see 
that  no  cut  work  is  being  made.  After 
passing  through  the  slubber  the  cot- 
ton is  put  through  three  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES 

and  made  into  the  following  hank  rov- 
ing: At  each  first  intermediate,  1.50; 
second  intermediate  or  roving  frame, 
4,  and  Jack  frame  8  hank.  Be  careful 
to  see  that  proper  twist  Is  being  put  in, 
just  enough  so  that  the  roving  will  not 
break  back  at  the  succeeding  process. 
The  method  of  finding  the  standard  for 
twist  has  been  given  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. Another  point  is  to  see  that 
the  tension  is  right,  because,  if  it  is 
too  much,  the  roving  will  be  apt  to  be 
strained,  while,  if  too  slack,  a  soft 
bobbin  will  be  made.  Keep  top  leath- 
er rolls  in  good  condition,  as  well  as 
spindles  well  oiled  for  good  roving. 
After  having  passed  the  fiy  frames 
the  roving  is  taken  to  the 

RING  SPINNING  FRAME 

and  spun  into  40s  yarn.  If  spun  on  a 
warp  frame,  use  a  frame  having  a  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6i^-inch  trav- 
erse, twist  per  inch  of  28.46,  and  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  If  spun  on  a  filling  frame 
use  a  frame  having  a  li^-inch  diam- 
eter ring,  5V^-inch  traverse,  twist  of 
23.72  and  spindle  speed  of  8,800  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  yarn  is  next 
twisted  into  2  ply  at  the  twister  and 
then  the  warp  yarn  is  run  on  a  chain 
warper;  from  here  it  is  taken  and 
dyed,  after  which  it  has  to  be  warped 
again  on  a  beam. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particulars 
on  cotton  yarn  and  mercerized  yarn: 

SCARLET. 

Four  per  cent  direct  scarlet  A.;   30 
per  cent  common  salt. 

MAROON. 

Three  and  one-half  per  cent  direct 
maroon  B. ;  30  per  cent  common  salt. 


PINK. 

Three-quarters  per  cent  direct  pink 
7  B.;  20  per  cent  salt. 

YELLOW. 

Three  per  cent  chromine  G.;  30  per 
cent  salt. 

GREEN. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine  green  4  B. ;  25  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY   BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  naphtamine  blue  2  B.; 
30  per  cent  salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  naphtamine  brown 
N  cone;  Vz  per  cent  naphtamine  yel- 
low N  N  cone;   20  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

ORANGE. 
One  per  cent  naphtamine  orange  O.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 
Three-quarters  per  cent  direct  olive 
R.;    %  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N  cone;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BROWN. 
One   per  cent  naphtamine  brown   6 
B.;    2  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N. ;   30  per  cent  salt. 

SLATE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine black  N. ;   20  per  cent  salt. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 
Five   per   cent   naphtamine   black   2 
G. ;    1   per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N.;   30  per  cent  salt. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  naphtamine  black  D.; 
30  per  cent  salt. 

HELIOTROPE. 
One-quarter   per   cent   heliotrope   B 
B.;   20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

ECRU. 
One  ounce  naphtamine  brown  N. ;  2 
ounces   naphtamine   yellow   N   N.;    20 
per  cent  salt. 


558 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


TARTANS 


Tartans,  also  termed  tartan  plaids, 
or  Scotch  plaids,  are  highly  colored 
fabrics,  the  distinguishing  effect  being 
large  plaid  or  check  effects  formed  by 
two  or  more  colors  of  warp  and  filling, 
more  particularly  containing  such 
prominent  colors  as  red,  yellow,  blue, 
orange,  green,  purple,  primary  and 
secondary  colors  and  other  showy  col- 
ors, to  a  greater  or  less  degree.  Pure 
blacks  and  whites  are  also  used. 

THE  MATERIALS 
used    are    yarn    dyed.        The    weaves 

used  are  usually  the  plain,  ? twill 

? basket,   ^ —    twill,     ^ basket, 

2  3  a 

and  rearrangements  of  or  combina- 
tions of  these  weaves,  which  distri- 
bute the  warp  and  filling  in  equal  pro- 
portions on  both  sides  while  retaining 
a  firm  structure  of  cloth. 

The  Mayo  or  Campbell  weave.  Fig. 
1,  and  the  6-end  twill  and  6 -end  has- 


GTBDOEH 

DiDDHaa 

■oaBDaBa 

■aiDHDaa 

■□aaaaaa 

DHDaaDaa 

Duaammma 

aaaaaaaa 

ummmaama 

DaaaDBaa 

Dam tBDQB 

aaaaaaaa 

■■naBnn» 

aaaaaaaa 

■■■GaiDG 

ajaaaaao 

Fig.  1.  Fi?.  2. 

ket  are  used  for  the  finer  grades  of 
goods. 

Tartans,  although  sometimes  made 
with  cotton  yarns,  are  more  extensive- 
ly made  with  worsted.  They  are  also 
made  with  other  fibres. 

References  to  tartans  being  used  for 
wearing  apparel  are  found  in  litera- 
ture, dating  back  to  the  15th  century. 

At  the  present  time  tartans  are  used, 
as  of  old,  for  ladies'  dress  goods,  and 
also  for  a  certain  type  of  garment  for 
men,  well  known  where  Scotchmen 
have  found  their  way. 

The  word  tartan  is  of  doubtful  ori- 
gin, some  historians  claiming  one  and 
some  another.  For  several  hundred 
years  it  has  been  connected  with 
cloths  made  and  worn  principally  by 
people  in  the  Scottish  highlands. 

The  Highlanders  were  formerly  di- 
vided into  sections,  or  clans,  each  of 
which  had  Its  own  special  tartan,  the 
latter  varying  in  the  arrangement  of 


colors,  or  of  the  colors  themselves,  or 
of  both,  from  those  used  by  the  other 
clans. 

The  Scottish  clans  and  their  tartans 
have  been  ably  and  extensively  dealt 
with  in  literature,  books  having  been 
published  on  the  subject,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred  for  more  detailed  in- 
formation. In  some  of  these  publica- 
tions the  illustrations  show  the  princi- 
pal tartans  in  their  several  colors. 

A  collection  of  tartans  of  good  qual- 
ity is  one  of  the  best  aids  in  studying 
the  pure  color  combinations  that  can 
be  obtained. 

It  is  said  that  the  tartan,  no  matter 
of  what  colors  or  arrangement  of  col- 
ors the  plaid  may  be  composed,  signi- 
fies the  brotherhood  of  the  various 
Scottish  clans. 

THE  SIMPLEST  FORM 
of  tartan  is  in  two  colors,  arranged  so 
many  ends  in  one  color  and  an  equal 
number  of  ends  of  another  color  in  the 
warp,  the  arrangement  of  filling  be- 
ing similar  to  the  warp,  making  blocks 
of  equal  size. 

The  combinations  of  colors,  or  ar- 
rangements of  yarns,  may  vary  as  de- 
sired. 

From  this  base  an  infinite  variety 
of  variations  can  be  made;  4,  5  and  6- 
color  tartans  are  commonly  made. 

In  a  tartan  made  in  six  colors,  red, 
yellow,  blue,  green,  black  and  white, 
with  the  exception  of  the  yellow  and 

white    ends,   which   work    - ,    the 

weave  is  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

A  tartan  with  a  prominent  weave 
effect,  as  in  this  instance,  is  something 
unusual.  The  idea  here  seems  to  have 
been  to  get  a  stripe  effect. 

To  produce  said  tartan,  16  harnesses 
would  be  required,  8  for  tne  ground, 
6   for   the   warp   float   and   2   for   the 

selvages.    The   sections   working    L 

work  in  8-end  sateen  order;  the  larg- 
est contains  6  ends,  therefore  6  har- 
nesses only  are  required. 

Being  a  fabric  characterized  by  col- 
or effect,  tartans  are  made  to  vary  in 
quality,  width,  weight  and  finish  to  a 
considerable  degree,  according  to  re- 
quirements. In  cotton  goods  they  are 
usually  developed  in  medium  counts 
ot  yarn,  from  say  20s  to  40s. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


639 


One  requisite  for  weaving  tartan  fab- 
rics is  a  loom  with  two  or  more  shut- 
tle boxes  at  one  end.  For  almost  all 
of  the  patterns  a  single  box  will  an- 
swer at  the  other  end. 

The  harness  motion  of  the  loom  will 
differ  according  to  the  weave  requir- 
ed. For  a  plain  weave  tartan,  an  or- 
dinary 2-cam  gingham  loom  will  an- 
swer; in  fact,  about  the  onlj^  differ- 
ence between  a  tartan  and  a  gingham 
is  that  the  colors  of  the  former  are 
brighter  than  those  of  the  latter,  and 
yarns  of  only  one  count  are  generally 
used,  one  warp  only  being  required, 
whereas  in  a  gingham  it  is  quite  com- 
mon to  have  yarns  of  varying  counts 
in  both  warp  and  filling. 

A  tartan  plaid  is  also  larger,  as  a 
rule,  than  a  gingham  check. 

A  cam  box  loom  would  also  suffice 
for  weaving  4-harness  twill  and  de- 
rivative weaves,  although  it  might  be 
preferable  in  the  case  of  the  latter  to 
use  a  dobby  loom  on  account  of  the 
cross  drawing  in  that  would  be  neces- 
sary. 

For  fancy  weave  tartans,  which  are 
in  the  minority,  a  box  loom  with  a  dob- 
by head  is  required. 


LONG  CLOTH 

Long  cloth  is  a  fine  cotton  fabric 
of  superior  quality,  made  with  a  fine 
grade  of  cotton  yarn  of  a  medium 
twist.  Originally,  the  fabric  was  man- 
ufactured in  England  and  subsequent- 
ly  imitated  in  the   United   States. 

The  fabric  is  used  exclusively  for 
lingerie  and  long  dresses  for  infants, 
from  which  it  has  apparently  derived 
its  name. 

Long  cloth  to  some  extent  resembles 
such  fabrics  as  batiste,  fine  grades  of 
muslin,  India  linen  and  cambrics.  It 
is  distinguished  from  these  fabrics  by 
the  closeness  of  its  weave  and  when 
finished,  the  fabric  possesses  a  whiter 
appearance,  due  to  the  closeness  of 
the  weave  and  the  soft  twist  yarn.  The 
fabric,  while  possessing  fair  weaving 
qualities,  is,  however,  not  used  as  a 
dress  fabric,  chiefly  because  of  its  fin- 
ished appearance,  which  is  similar 
in    all    respects    to  fabrics    we    have 


been  accustomed  to  see  that  are  used 
solely  for  lingerie,  night  gowns,  etc. 
Long  cloth,  like  the  fabrics  enu- 
merated above,  is  made  in  a  variety  of 
grades  or  qualities.  It  is  a  very  com- 
mon thing  in  textile  manufacturing  to 
vary  the  grade  of  a  fabric;  not  sim 
ply  because  the  manufacturer  loves  to 
do  so,  but  bec3,use  of  necessity,  com- 
petition,  etc. 

THE  SOLE  PURPOSE 
of  the  manufacturer  is  to  produce  a 
fabric  that  will  sell  and  in  order  for 
a  fabric  to  sell,  it  must  be  attractive 
and  reasonable  in  price;  the  price 
which  a  manufacturer  can  command 
determines  precisely  how  he  must  con- 
struct any  fabric  which  he  may  offer 
to  the  consumer;  if  he  finds,  for  in- 
stance, that  long  cloth  is  more  sal- 
able at  121/^  cents  a  yard  than  at  15 
cents,  it  follows  that  he  must  make  it 
at  the  former  price.  In  order  to  make 
it  profitable  at  12 1/^  cents  per  yard  he 
must  either  use  a  cheaper  grade  of 
yarn  or  make  a  slightly  lighter  fab- 
ric, by  using  a  fine  count  of  yam, 
which  will  produce  more  yards  of 
cloth  per  pound  of  yarn;  thus  are 
brought  about  the  various  grades  and 
qualities  of  fabrics. 

The  public  is  sometimes  badly  mis- 
taken when  it  imagines  _it  buys  pre- 
cisely the  same  fabric  at  12^/^  cents 
which  some  other  concern  is  offering 
at  15  cents  per  yard. 

Following  is  an 

ANALYSIS   OF  A  FABRIC 
which  sells  at  15  cents  per  yard. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  including  sel- 
vages, 371^  inches.  Width  of  fabric  fin- 
ished, 36  inches;  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished, 100;  ends  per  inch  in  reed,  96; 
ends  in  warp  without  selvages,  3,600; 
ends  in  selvages,  40;  total  ends  in 
warp,  3,640. 

Take-up  of  warp  in  weaving  8  per 
cent;  weight  of  finished  fabric  2.5 
ounces;  warp  all  l-50s  cotton;  filling 
all  l-60s  cotton. 

Picks  per  inch  finished,  88. 

Picks  per  inch  in  loom,  90. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

A  factor  of  supreme  importance  in 
the  production  of  light  cotton  fabrics 
is  the  loom   facilities  available;    such 


560 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


fabrics  as  long  cloth  and  fabrics  close- 
ly allied  in  character  are  woven  most 
profitably  on  high-speed  looms,  or  an 
automatic   loom. 
Long  cloth  is  but  a  plain  woven  fab- 

■Daaauan 
DBDaaiDa 
aDaaaaaa 
oaaaaaua 
mjmamama 
□aaaoBDa 

BGaDaDBD 
Fig.  1 

DnannDGB 
DDaDDoaa 
DDDDcaan 

DDDDaDDa 
DDDanDDD 
DDBDDaDa 

DBDnDnna 
moaaaaaa 

flR.  2 

ric  (Fig.  1  design;  Fig.  2  drawing-in 
draft)  and  is  usually  woven  with  eight 
harnesses,  owing  to  the  number  of 
ends  per  inch,  which  would  overcrowd 
the  heddles  and  cause  the  yarn  to 
chafe  and  break  if  less  harnesses  were 
used.  The  yarn  is  sized  before  the 
warp  is  beamed.  The  sizing  is  merely 
to  strengthen  the  yarn.  For  light  siz- 
ing it  is  not  necessary  to  use  anything 
but  wheat  flour,  farina,  or  sago  and  a 
small  quantity  of  softening  material, 
usually  tallow  or  wax. 

FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  is  woven  it  is  sent 
to  the  bleaching  house.  The  first 
process  is  to  boil  it,  then  it  is  bleach- 
ed. After  the  bleaching  process  the 
fabric  is  subjected  to  a  very  light  siz- 
ing. The  most  prominent  of  the  siz- 
ing ingredients  is  the  softening  mate- 
rial used,  which  may  be  glycerine, 
paraffine,  cocoa  oil,  olive  oil  or  bees' 
or  Japan  wax. 

After  the  fabric  is  sized  it  is  run 
through  a  rotary  press,  the  cylinders 
of  which  are  only  slightly  heated,  with 
equally  as  little  pressure  on  the  fabric. 
The  cloth  is  then  folded,  after  which  it 
is  ready  for  the  market. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yams  for  this  fabric  are  made 
in  the  second  division  of  mills,  as  giv- 
en in  a  previous  article.  Long  cloth  is 
also  sometimes  made  in  the  better 
equipped  mills  of  the  first  division. 
The  raw  stock  used  is  generally  Allen 
or  peeler  cotton,  the  average  length 


of  staple  of  which  does  not  exceed 
VA  inches  in  length.  In  some  grades 
of  long  cloth  the  filling  yarn  is  comb- 
ed, but  as  it  is  the  more  general  cus- 
tom to  use  a  carded  yarn,  we  will 
work  on  this  basis.  Make  the  mixings 
as  large  as  possible.  After  being  mix- 
ed the  cotton  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  picking  and  an  opener. 
Keep  the  opener  hopper 

WELL   FILLED, 

so  that  the  pin  beater  will  always 
have  to  strike  some  of  it  back.  A  well- 
fiUed  spiked  lifting  apron  means  an 
even  amount  of  cotton  being  fed  to 
the  breaker  picker  and  therefore  a 
more  even  breaker  lap.  For  this  class 
of  cotton  a  three-bladed,  rigid  type  of 
beater  is  best.  The  speed  of  this  beat- 
er should  be  about  1,050  revolutions 
per  minute,  as  this  class  of  cotton  is 
generally  very  dirty  and  requires  an 
extra  amount  of  beating  in  the  break- 
er and  intermediate  pickers  so  as  to 
get  a  good,  clean  lap.  The  weight  of 
lap  at  the  front  of  the  breaker  picker 
should  be  40%  pounds.  These  laps  are 
put  up  and  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker.  The  beater  used 
on  this  picker,  to  get  good  results, 
should  be  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type,  the 
speed  of  which  should  be  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  38  pounds 
or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  intermediate  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at  this  picker 
that  the 

CUT -ROVING  WASTE 
Is  mixed  in  in  the  proportion  of  three 
laps  raw  stock  to  one  lap  roving 
waste.  If  the  mills  are  not  provided 
with  a  roving  picker,  the  third  lap  is 
taken  out  and  the  roving  fed  on  top 
of  the  sheet  that  comes  from  the 
fourth  lap.  Do  not  use  too  much 
waste,  because  it  tends  to  make  split 
laps  which  cause  trouble  in  licking  and 
making  single  at  the  card.  The  beater 
of  the  finisher  picker  is  generally  a 
two-bladed,  rigid  type,  the  speed  of 
which  should  be  about  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  36 
pounds  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  A  variation 
of  one-half  pound,  either  standard,  is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


661 


allowed  for  this  work.  The  cotton 
passing  through  the  finisher  picker  re- 
ceives 42  beats  or  blows  per  inch.  Put 
these  laps  up 

AT    THE   CARD 

which  should  have  wire  fillet  for  spin- 
ning medium  counts  of  yarn.  The 
draft  of  this  machine  should  not  ex- 
ceed 115.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
is  375  revolutions  per  minute  and  the 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes.  The  percentage  of 
waste  and  fiy  taken  out  is  about  3.75 
to  4.  Use  medium  settings  and  be 
sure  that  the  feed  plate  is  not  set  too 
close  so  as  to  break  the  staple.  The 
cards  should  be  stripped  as  follows: 
Three  times  for  cylinders  and  four 
for  doffers  per  day.  Grind  cards  all 
over  at  least  once  every  three  weeks, 
lightly,  and  set  after  having  ground. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
should  be  60  grains  per  yard.  The 
production  on  this  class  of  goods 
should  be  700  to  750  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  This  sliver  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames 
which  may  be  either  equipped  with 
metallic  or  leather-covered  top  rolls. 
If  leather  top  rolls  are  used  a  good  re- 
ceipt for 

VARNISH, 
which  differs  from  those  already  giv- 
en, follows:  8  ounces  best  fiake  glue, 
8  ounces  ground  or  flake  gelatine,  3 
pints  acetic  acid,  1  pound  burnt  or  raw 
sienna,  1  ounce  oil  of  origanum.  In 
many  mills  trouble  is  often  found  with 
the  laps  of  the  leather  rolls  breaking 
or  splitting  apart  when  varnish  is  first 
put  on.  If  the  laps  are  painted  with 
formaldehyde,  using  a  fine  brush  for 
the  purpose,  it  will  be  found  to  over- 
come this  trouble.  This  not  only  ap- 
plies to  drawing  frame  top  leather 
rolls  but  to  all  leather  rolls  that  have 
to  be  varnished. 

ANOTHER  POINT 
to  look  out  for  is  when  sending  rolls 
away  to  be  covered,  all  waste  should 
be  removed  from  the  bearings,  for,  if 
this  is  not  done,  a  rust  spot  will  be 
on  them  when  they  are  returned  from 
the  roll  coverer.  On  the  drawing 
frame  on  this  class  of  work  it  will  be 
found    advantageous    to    use    metallic 


top  rolls.  If  used,  keep  the  flutes 
clean  and  smooth.  The  speed  of  the 
front  roll  should  be  375  revolutions 
per  minute  on  all  processes.  The 
doublings  are  6  into  1  and  the  weight 
of  sliver  at  the  front  is  70  grains  per 
yard.  Size  the  drawing  frames  at 
least  three  times  a  day.  The  sliver  is 
next  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .55  hank  roving.  From  here  it  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames  and  made  into  11.50  hank  rov- 
ing at  the  jack  frames.  The  hank  rov- 
ing at  the  different  processes  is  as  fol- 
lows: First,  1.50;  second,  4  and  fine, 
11.50.  From  here  it  is  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room  and  spun  into  50s 
yarn  on  a  warp  frame  having  a  2%- 
inch  gauge,  li/^-inch  diameter  ring,  6- 
inch  traverse,  31.81  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute.  From  here  it  is  spooled 
and  warped  and  the  required  number 
of  beams  put  up  at  the  slasher  to  give 
sufficient  end  for  the  warp  at  the 
front.  A  good  slasher  size  is  as  fol- 
lows: Water,  100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  65  pounds;  tallow,  6  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  three  pounds;  soap 
(white)   two  pounds.    Boil  If  hours. 

For  the  filling  yarn  the  roving  is 
spun  into  60s  on, a  frame  having  2%- 
inch  gauge,  IV^  diameter  ring,  5-inch 
traverse,  27  twist  per  inch  and  spin- 
dle speed  of  8,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute.   This  yarn  should  be  conditioned 


BUCKRAM 

Buckram  may  be  described  as  a 
coarse,  glue-sized  fabric  made  with 
cotton,  linen,  hemp  or  cotton  and  hair, 
the  name  in  most  cases  being  acquired 
by  the  finish  which  the  fabric  receives 
after  it  is  woven.  Some  qualities  of 
buckram  are  but  plain  woven  cotton 
fabrics. 

Buckram  is  used  principally  for 
stiffening  garments,  being  much  in  de- 
mand by  tailors,  who  use  the  fabric 
for  stiffening  and  to  give  shape  or 
form  to  a  garment.  The  fabric  is  in- 
serted between  the  lining  and  the  sur- 
face cloth  of  the  garment  in  particular 
parts,  such  as  the  lapel,  cuff  or  wher- 
ever the  shape  of  the  garment  is  es- 
sential to  its  appearance.   Buckram  Is 


m 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


manufactured  in  several  kinds;  the 
fabric  used  for  men's  wear  is  usually 
made  with  linen,  hemp  or  hair  and 
cotton;  the  latter  combination,  name- 
ly, hair  and  cotton,  is  supposed  to  be 
the  best,  in  so  far  that  when  bent  or 
twisted  it  will  spring  back  to  its  origi- 
nal position;  this  feature  cannot  be  at- 
tributed to  hemp  or  linen.  The  hair 
and  cotton  buckram  is  a  loosely  wo- 
ven fabric,  the  hair  figuring  as  warp, 
and  the  cotton  as  filling.  It  is  usually 
woven  in  plain  twills  or  herring- 
bone weave.   The  filling  is  usually  two 


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picks  in  one  shed.  (See  Fig.  1,  design.) 
Buckram  also  figures  largely  in  the 
millinery  trade,  where  it  is  made  up 
into  hats.  These  hats  are  covered  with 
chenille,  plumes,  flowers  or  whatever 
finery  may  be  desired. 

The  buckram  used  for  this  purpose 
is  a  plain  woven  cotton  fabric  heavily 
sized,  increasing  its  weight  from  50 
to  100  per  cent.  The  odd  feature  of 
millinery  buckram  is  that  two  sep- 
arate fabrics  are  made  into  one  during 
the  finishing  process  by  means  of  glu- 
ing or  sizing  them  together;  these 
two  fabrics  are  of  different  texture. 
The  top  or  face  fabric  closely  resem- 
bles a  fine  cotton  voile,  while  the  back 
or  bottom  fabric  might  be  termed  a 
coarse  tarlatan. 

Millinery  buckram  is  a  piece-dyed 
fabric,  usually  in  somber  colors,  such 
as  dark  red,  garnet,  dark  green  and 


black.  In  the  hair  and  cotton  fabric, 
which  is  principally  used  for  men's 
wear,  the  cotton  is  dyed  before  it  is 
woven. 

COTTON  BUCKRAxM  ANALYSIS. 

Face  or  top  fabric:  Width  of  warp 
in  reed,  38  inches;  width  of  fabric  fin- 
ished, 36  inches;  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished, 40;  ends  per  inch  in  reed,  38; 
ends  in  warp,  1,440;  19  x  2  reed;  take- 
up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8  per  cent; 
warp,  l-22s  cotton;,  filling,  l-26s  cot- 
ton; 34  picks  per  inch;  weight  from 
loom,  2.22  ounces. 

Back  or  bottom  fabric:  Width  of 
warp  in  reed,  41  inches;  width  of  fab- 
ric finished,  36  inches;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  16;  ends  per  inch  in  reed,  14; 
ends  in  warp,  576;  ends  selvage,  24; 
total  ends  in  warp,  600;  14  x  1  reed; 
take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  5  per 
cent;  warp,  l-12s  cotton;  filling,  1-lOs 
cotton;  12  picks  per  inch;  weight  of 
fabric  from  loom,  1.86  ounces. 

Weight  of  two  fabrics  after  finish- 
ing, as  one,  6.38  ounces;  nearly  60  per 
cent  added  by  sizing  materials. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  any 
light-built  loom,  the  speed  of  which 
should  be  from  150  to  170  picks  per 
minute.  The  warp  for  face  fabrics  is 
usually  drawn  on  eight  harnesses;  the 
back  fabric  may  be  drawn  in  on  four 
harnesses  in  the  order  of:  1,  3,  2,  4. 
The  chain,  if  a  dobby  loom  is  used, 
must  be  built  accordingly.  (Fig.  2.) 
Chain  required:  2  repeats. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics,  as  previously  men- 
tioned, depend  a  great  deal  on  the 
finishing  which  they  receive.  The 
men's  wear  buckram  requires  less  siz- 
ing by  reason  of  the  strenuous  ordeal 
to  which  it  is  subjected  in  the  fulfill- 
ment of  its  purposes,  and  also  because 
the  warp,  which  is  composed  of  hair, 
is  in  itself  quite  stiff. 

Millinery  buckram  requires  more  at- 
tention. After  the  fabrics  are  woven, 
they  are  dyed;  the  finisher  then  must 
observe  that  the  fabrics  finish  the 
same  width,  so  that  when  sized  or 
glued  together  one  fabric  will  not  ex- 
tend beyond  the  other.  To  Insure  that 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


563 


the  fabrics  lie  evenly,  they  are  stitch- 
ed at  the  selvages  by  means  of  a  sew- 
ing machine. 

The  fabrics  are  then  subjected  to 
the  sizing  process,  with  the  back  cloth 
to  the  roller,  which  revolves  in  the 
size;  this  allows  the  size  to  penetrate 
more  readily,  as  the  meshes  of  the 
back  cloth  are  larger  than  the  meshes 
of  face  fabric;  the  fabric  is  usually 
subjected  two  or  three  times  in  suc- 
cession before  it  is  finally  dried. 

The  ingredients  used  in  sizing  are 
glue,  flour  and  China  clay.  These  in- 
gredients are  used  in  various  propor- 
tions, the  following  being  an  example: 
40  parts  glue,  20  parts  clay,  40  parts 
flour. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  which  make  up  buckram 
vary  according  to  the  quality  of  fab- 
ric, but,  generally  speaking,  the  yarns 
are  what  are  called  coarse.  The  yarns 
of  this  class  of  goods  would  be  made 
in  mills  of  the  first  division  as  given 
in  a  previous  lesson.  In  coarse  yarns 
quantity  is  the  end  sought  for  rather 
than  quality.  Of  course,  this  does  not 
mean  that  everything  is  dropped  for 
quantity,  but  that  as  great  a  produc- 
tion as  possible  is  made  at  each  ma- 
chine and  still  get  the  desired  quality 
for  the  class  of  goods  being  made.  In 
fact,  the  machines  are  set  to  produce 
this  result.  For  this  article  we  will 
consider  the  buckram  to  be  what  is 
called  "cotton  buckram"  and  made  up 
of  all-cotton  yarn.  Other  kinds  of 
buckram  are  made  which  have  only 
one  or  both  filling  and  warp  back 
yarns  of  cotton  fibre.  The  latter  are 
made  up  of  very  coarse  counts  of 
yarns,  generally  about  1-lOs.  Cotton 
buckram  is  made  up  of  finer  yarns, 
and  for  this  article  we  will  consider 
the  count  to  be  l-22s  for  the  warp  and 
l-26s  for  the  filling  yarns.  Both  these 
yarns  are  made  up  of  the  same  staple 
cotton,  generally  a  low  grade  of  Amer- 
ican cotton  being  used  of  about  three- 
quarters-inch  staple. 

MIXINGS. 
Waste  is  sometimes  mixed  with  the 
raw  stock,  but  we   will  consider  that 
only  good  sliver  waste  is  to  be  mixed 


with  the  raw  stock.  Large  mixings  are 
made  by  hand,  generally  enough  to 
last  a  week  or  longer  if  the  mixing  bin 
is  large  enough.  Mixing  is  done  in 
the  same  manner  as  in  the  case  of 
finer  grades  of  cotton,  making  as  uni- 
form a  mixing  as  possible,  so  that  all 
the  bales  of  cotton  used  will  be  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  mixing.  For 
this  class  of  goods  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking  are  used. 
The  speed  of  the  breaker  picker, 
which  generally  has  three  blades  and 
is  of  a  rigid  type,  is  1,550  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled  four 
into  one  at  the  intermediate  picker 
This  picker  is  provided  with  a  two- 
bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,550  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  is  39  pounds  or  a  14-ounce  lap. 
The  laps  from  the  intermediate  picker 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  This  picker  is 
also  provided  with  a  two-bladed  beat- 
er of  a  rigid  type,  the  speed  of  which 
is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  Great 
care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the 
cotton  mixing  is  free  from  all  foreign 
substances,  for,  if  the  beaters  should 
strike  any  hard  substances  while  go- 
ing at  this  rate  of  speed,  a  spark  is 
sure  to  be  struck,  which  may  cause 
considerable  damage.  The  total  weight 
of  the  laps  at  the  finisher  picker  is  38 
pounds,  or  a  14-ounce  lap.  A  variation 
of  10  ounces  either  side  of  the  stand 
ard  weight  is  allowed  for  this  class  of 
goods;  all  laps  varying  more  than  this 
are  run  through  the  finisher  picker 
again. 

THE  CARD. 

The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card, 
which  is  covered  with  a  coarse  wire 
fillet  on  doffer,  flats  and  cylinder,  the 
wire  on  the  cylinder  being  gauged 
coarser  than  that  used  for  the  doffer 
and  top  flats.  The  draft  of  the  card 
should  not  exceed  85  and  the  speed  of 
the  flats  should  be  one  complete  revo- 
lution in  60  minutes  on  a  110  top  flat 
card.  The  cards  should  be  stripped 
four  times  a  day  and  ground  once  a 
month.  For  this  class  of  work  look 
out  for  the  doffer  comb  to  gee  that  it 


664 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Is  set  right  and  is  making  the  correct 
number  of  vibrations  to  clean  the  dof- 
fer.  The  production  of  the  card  is  900 
pounds  or  even  975  pounds  for  a  week 
of  60  hours  with  a  70-grain  sliver.  The 
sliver  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing  frames. 

THE  DRAWING  FRAMES 
for  this  class  of  work  are  generally, 
although  not  always,  equipped  with 
metallic  top  rolls.  Keep  the  flutes 
cleaned  and  the  rolls  well  oiled.  If 
leather  top  rolls  are  used,  keep  them 
well  varnished,  using  a  little  heavier 
varnish  than  the  recipe  given  in  the 
article  on  long  cloth.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  is 
75  grains  per  yard.  The  doublings  at 
the  drawings  are  8  into  1.  This  sliver 
is  put  through  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .40  hank  roving.  This  is  then  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames. 
At  the  first  It  is  made  into  1.00  hank 
roving  and  at  the  second  2.50  hank. 
Look  out  to  see  that  the  full  bobbins 
are  properly  shaped  and  that  the 
frames  are  changing  right,  so  that  the 
roving  will  not  run  over  or  under,  as 
this  will  make  a  great  deal  of  un 
necessary  waste.  The  roving  is  taken 
to  the 

RING  SPINNING  ROOM 
and  spun  into  22s  warp  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  a  2|-inch  traverse,  2 -inch 
diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse,  22.28 
twist  per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of 
9,500  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn  is  spooled  and  warped  and  these 
beams  put  up  behind  a  slasher  and 
sized  and  run  on  a  beam  at  the  front, 
on  which  the  required  number  of  ends 
are  run.  The  filling  yarn  is  spun  in- 
to 26s  on  a  frame  having  2i-inch 
gauge,  li-inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch 
traverse,  17.84  twist  per  inch  (3.25  x 
square  root  of  count)  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  8,000  revolutions  per  minute. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
The  goods   are   piece   dyed   on   the 
Jigs  or  padding  machines  with  one-dip 
colors. 

BLACK. 
5   per  cent  oxydiamine   black  AK.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;   3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 


Navy  blues  are  also  dyed  in  the 
same  manner.  The  goods  are  very 
heavily  starched  with  dextrine  or  an- 
imal glues  of  various  kinds.  The  goods 
are  run  through  a  starch  mangle,  or 
starched  by  hand  in  a  tub,  and  dried 
on  a  tenter  frame.  The  starching 
process  is  repeated  until  a  sufficient 
stiffness  is  obtained. 

STARCH  SOLUTION. 

1  gallon  water,  10  ounces  dextrine, 
mixed  cold  and  boiled  for  one  hour. 
The  addition  of  a  little  color,  to  color 
the   starch,   is    sometimes   required. 


INDIGO  PRINTS 

Indigo  print  cloth  is  one  of  the 
standard  types  of  cotton  fabrics  that 
are  run  with  more  or  less  success  all 
the  time,  no  matter  what  the  trend  of 
fashion  or  style  may  be. 

An  indigo  print  is  distinguished 
from  a  regular  print  by  having  a  print- 
ed figure,  of  any  desirable  type  or  de- 
sign, on  a  solid  indigo  blue  ground,  the 
latter  varying  in  depth  of  shade,  ac- 
cording to  requirements,  whereas  the 
ground  of  an  ordinary  print  cloth  pat- 
tern is  white  or  a  light  color. 

An  indigo  print  pattern  is  obtained 
by  one  of 

THREE  METHODS: 
indigo    blotch     printing,     indigo     dis- 
charge printing  or  indigo  resist  print- 
ing. 

The  basis  of  an  indigo  print  may  be 
any  of  the  many  types  of  plain  cot- 
ton fabrics,  according  to  weight  and 
fineness  desired,  although  what  is 
known  as  a  standard  print  cloth  is 
generally  used. 

A   "STANDARD   PRINT" 
is  supposed  to  be  constructed  as  fol- 
lows:   28s  warp,  36s  filling,  28  inches 
wide,  64  ends  and  64  picks  per  inch,  7 
yards  per  pound. 

28  inches  x  64  ends  per  inch  equals 
1,792  ends  in  the  warp,  not  allowing 
extras   for   selvages. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  a  great  many  so- 
called  standard  prints  made  in  Fall 
River,  the  center  of  the  print  cloth  in- 
dustry, contain  only  1,720  ends  in  the 
warp  and  62  picks  per  inch  in  the  fill- 
ing. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


666 


In  New  Bedford  print  cloths 
are  made  from  yarns  two  num- 
bers finer  than  the  above,  being 
made  of  30s  warp  and  38s  filling. 
There  are  1,790  ends  in  the  warp  and 
62  or  63  picks  per  inch  in  the  filling. 

Another  print  cloth  made  in  Fall 
River  is  28  inches  wide  and  contains 
28s  warp,  32s  filling,  64  x  64  (shy). 
The  weight  is   6.44   yards  per   pound. 

Although  28  inches  is  the  usual 
width  of  these  goods,  they  are  also 
made   in 

OTHER  WIDTHS, 
generally  wider.  A  certain  wide  Fall 
River  print  is  constructed  as  follows: 
34s  warp,  36s  filling,  46  inches  wide, 
56  ends  and  52  picks  per  inch,  5.4 
yards  per  pound. 

On  account  of  the  large  number  of 
standard  print  fabrics  used,  by  far  the 
largest  quantity  of  any  type  of  cot- 
ton fabric  made,  many  mills  are  run 
on  these  goods  entirely. 

THE  LOOM  REQUIRED 
for  weaving  print  cloths  is  of  the  or 
dinary  plain  2-harness  cam  type. 
From  a  general  consideration  of  the 
subject  it  would  appear  that  the  au- 
tomatic looms  would  be  the  most  eco- 
nomical to   use. 

With  a  plain  loom  the  drawing-in 
and  reeding  plans  are  similar  to  those 
previously  explained  when  considering 
other  plain  weave  goods — skip  shaft, 
draw  on  two  twine  harnesses,  which  is 
equal  to  4  wire  heddle  harnesses,  reed 
2  ends  per  dent;   selvage  end,  double. 

In  consequence  of  the  colors  or  de- 
sign of  a  print  cloth  being  the  princi- 
pal salable  features  of  the  cloth,  and 
those  that  appear  to  the  eye  the  most 
readily,  more  attention  is  paid  to 
quantity  than  quality  when  weaving 
them,  the  idea  being  that  the  printing 
and  finishing  processes  will  obliterate, 
or  at  least  reduce,  any  cloth  structural 
defects  that  may  be  made  in  the  loom. 
Cloth  defects  are  allowed  to  pass  for 
prints  that  would  not  be  allowed,  only 
as  second  quality  goods,  to  be  finished 
by  any  of  the  other  cotton  finishing 
processes. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 
The  mills  which  make  yam  used  for 
print  cloth  comprise  the  larger  per- 


centage of  all  the  mills  and  would  be- 
long to  the  first  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  article.  While  thb 
equipment  of  machinery  is  about  the 
same  in  all  mills  making  yarns  for 
print  cloth,  still  they  differ  in  a  great 
many  cases  as  to  the  number  of  proc- 
esses used.  For  example,  one  mill 
uses  two  processes  of  drawing  and  an 
extra  process  of  fly  frames;  another 
may  use  a  railway  head  and  cut  out 
one  process  of  drawing,  some  mills 
using  this  machine  before  the  drawing 
frame  and  some  after.  Some  mills 
may  only  use  two  processes  of  pickers 
and  an  opener,  whereas  other  mills 
use  three  processes. 

ANOTHER  FEATURE 

about  mills  making  print  cloth  yarns 
is  that  there  is  very  little  if  any 
changing,  according  to  the  usual  cus- 
tom; as  one  overseer  puts  it,  one  set 
of  gears  is  nailed  on  when  the  ma- 
chine is  started  and  left  on  until 
worn  out,  when  another  set  of  the 
same  number  of  teeth  is  substituted 
for  the  old  ones.  In  this  article  it  will 
be  the  general  machines  and  number 
of  processes  which  will  be  given,  for 
carding  and  spinning  the  standard 
print  yarns,  28s  warp  and  36s  filling. 
First  comes  the  mixing,  which  may  be 
done  either  by  hand  or  by  machine 
(bale  breaker).  The  usual  methods 
that  have  been  explained  in  previous 
articles  may  be  followed.  Next  the 
sliver  waste  from  the  different  proc- 
esses up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in  at 
the  bins  or  is  sometimes  placed  in  the 
hopper  of  the  feeder  and  fed  to  it  a  lit- 
tle at  a  time  along  with  the  raw  stock. 

PICKERS. 
After  passing  the  opener  the  cotton 
is  put  through  three  processes  of  pick- 
ers, the  beaters  used  on  all  three  be- 
ing generally  the  two-bladed,  rigid 
type.  The  speed  of  these  beaters  at 
the  different  processes  is  as  follows: 
Breaker,  1,500  revolutions  per  minute; 
intermediate  and  finishers,  1,450  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  beats  per  inch 
at  the  finisher  picker  should  be  40  to 
43  for  this  staple  cotton.  The  total 
weight  of  the  laps  Is  as  follows: 
Breaker,  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap; 
Intermediate,  38  pounds  or  a  10 -ounce 


566 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


lap;    finisher,    39    pounds    or    a    liVz- 
ounce  lap. 

A  variation  from  the  total  standard 
weight  of  the  lap  of  half  a  pound 
either  side  is  allowed.  All  laps  weigh- 
ing more  or  less  are  run  through  the 
finisher  picker  again.  The  doublings 
at  the  last  two  processes  are  4  into  1. 
Mix  cut-roving  waste  at  finisher  proc- 
ess. 

THE  CARDS 
are  set  for  coarse  work,  and  while 
there  are  still  many  of  the  old-style 
American  cards  in  use,  for  this  ar- 
ticle the  newer  card  or  the  Englisli 
card  is  much  used,  particulars  of 
which  will  be  given.  The  speed  of  the 
cylinder  is  160  to  165  revolutions  per 
minute;  the  licker-in,  350  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  feed  plate  should  be 
set  to  the  licker-in  one-eighth  inch 
longer  than  the  staple  of  the  cotton, 
i.  e.,  from  bite  of  feed  roll  to  licker-in 
teeth,  and  the  feed  plate  should  have 
a  fairly  pointed  nose.  The  licker-in 
should  be  set  with  a  10-l,000ths  inch 
gauge  from  cylinder  wire.  The  back 
side  of  cylinder  screen  should  be  set 
l-32d  of  an  inch  away  from  cylinder 
wire,  directly  underneath  (in  center), 
with  a  28-l,000ths  inch  gauge  and  at 
the  front  one-quarter  inch  away  from 
cylinder  wire.  The  doffer  should  be 
set  to  the  cylinder  loose  to  a  5-l,000ths 
inch  gauge;  the  doffer  comb  set  with  a 
12-l,000ths  inch  gauge  from  doffer 
wire;  the  top  flats  to  cylinder  wire 
with  a  10-l,000ths  inch  gauge  and  the 
back  and  front  knife  plates  should  be 
set  the  same  as  for  leno  cotton  fabrics. 
The  top  flats  make  one  complete  rev- 
olution every  45  minutes.  Strip  three 
times  a  day  and  grind  as  before  stat- 
ed. The  production  for  a  week  of 
60  hours  is  750  to  850  pounds.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  is  65  grains  per 
yard.  This  sliver  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  400 
revolutions  per  minute.  Use  either 
metallic  or  leather-covered  top  rolls. 
The  advantages  of  both  kinds  have 
been  given  previously.  The  weight 
per  yard  of  the  drawing  is  70  grains. 
The  doublings  at  each  process  are  6 
into   1.    At  the  slubber  the   drawing 


sliver  is  made  into  .55  hank  roving. 
The  top  rolls  for  this  staple  of  cotton 
are  not  generally  varnished.  The  slub- 
ber roving  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames.  At  the  dif- 
ferent processes  the  hank  roving  is  as 
follows:  First,  2  hank;  and  second  7 
hank  for  the  warp  yarn.  The  different 
processes  upto  the  last  fly  frame  for 
making  36s  filling  yarn  are  the  same. 
Here  the  roving  is  spun  into  8.50  hank. 
The  yarn  is  then  taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM 
and  made  into  28s  warp  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  a  6i/^-inch  traverse,  21- 
inch  gauge,  12-inch  diameter  ring,  25. 
13  twist  per  inch,  and  9,700  revolu- 
tions per  minute  of  spindle.  This  yarn 
is  spooled  and  warped  and  then  put 
through  a  slasher.     A 

GOOD  SLASHER  MIXING 
to  use,  if  prints  are  to  be  woven  on  a 
common  loom,  is  as  follows:  Water, 
100  gallons;  cornstarch,  50  pounds; 
tallow,  3  pounds;  turpentine,  1 
gill;  boil  30  minutes.  If  wo- 
ven on  an  automatic  loom,  use  the 
following  size:  Water,  100  gallons; 
potato  starch,  50  pounds;  tallow,  3 
pounds;  turpentine,  1  gill;  and  boil  30 
minutes.  The  roving  for  filling  yarn 
may  be  either  mule  or  frame  spun.  It 
is  the  general  custom  to  have  it  ring 
spun  in  mills  built  lately.  For  this 
count  of  yarn  use  a  frame  with  a  5%- 
inch  traverse,  li-inch  diameter  ring, 
22.50  twist  per  inch,  8,900  revolutions 
per  minute  of  spindle.  This  yarn,  after 
being  conditioned,  is  ready  for  use. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  pieces  are  first  bleached  to  get 
a  good  white,  and  then  dyed  in  the 
continuous  vat. 

THE   HYDROSULPHITE   VAT. 

The  water  is  corrected  by  the  ad- 
dition of  one  quart  of  hydrosulphite 
to  every  250  gallons  of  water.  A  stock 
liquor  is  made  up  in  a  barrel: 

Fifty  pounds  synthetic  indigo  paste: 
2%  gallons  warm  water;  3|  gallons 
caustic  soda,  76  degrees  Tw.,  and 
stirred;  temperature  is  raised  to  105 
degrees  F.,  and  8  gallons  of  hydrosul- 
phite added.   The  temperature  is  kept 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


667 


at  about  105  degrees  F.  for  two 
hours.  If  the  solution  is  not  clear  yel- 
low, a  further  addition  of  one  gallon 
of  hydrosulphite  is  made.  The  vat  is 
made  up  from  the  stock  liquor  and  the 
pieces  are  passed  through  a  sufficient 
number  of  times  until  the  required 
shade   is   obtained. 

The    pieces    are    washed    and   dried 
and  printed  with  a  discharge  paste. 
WHITE  DISCHARGE. 

Four  and  one-half  pounds  bichro- 
mate of  potash;  9  pints  hot  water;  l^^ 
pounds  soda  calc,  then  6i^  pounds  No. 
11  gum;  5  pints  water;  heated  to  140 
degrees  F.,  cooled  and  strained. 
COLORED   DISCHARGE. 

Eight  pounds  discharge  pigment;   10 
pounds      discharge      thickening;      7% 
pounds  tragacanth,  8  ounces  to  gallon. 
DISCHARGE    THICKENING. 

Eight  pounds  tragacanth,  8  ounces 
to  gallon;  2%  pounds  bichromate 
potash;  3^/i  pints  hot  water;  after  dis- 
solving add  20  ounces  ammonia,  25  per 
cent;  when  cold  add  1  gallon  blood  al- 
bumen, 8  pounds  to  gallon;  after 
printing  and  drying,  the  material  is 
passed  through  the  following  acid  bath 
at  140  degrees  F. ;  4  pounds  sulphuric 
acid,  168  degrees  Tw.,  4  pounds  ox- 
alic acid;  10  gallons  water.  The  goods 
should  be  immediately  well  washed 
and  dried. 


LENO  COTTON  FABRICS 

Leno  fabrics  constitute  a  division  of 
textile  fabrics  characterized  by  par- 
ticular warp  threads  crossing  over  one 
or  more  warp  threads,  instead  of  ly- 
ing parallel  to  one  another  as  in  or 
dinary  or  plain  weaving. 

These  fabrics  possess  two  distinct 
sets  of  warp  threads,  the  regular  or 
ground  warp  and  the  douping  warp  or 
warp  that  crosses  over  the  ground 
warp  and  forms  the  ornamental  fea- 
ture that  characterizes   the  fabric. 

Leno  fabrics  are  woven  upon  a  sys- 
tem quite  apart  from  ordinary  or  plain 
weaving. 

THE    DIFFERENCE 
lies  chiefly  in  the  fact  that  two  sets 
Of  harnesses  are  required   to  operate 


the  warp,  the  ground  harness  and  the 
doup  harness   set. 

The  ground  harness  is  the  same  as 
in  ordinary  weaving:  the  doup  har- 
ness set  consists  of  two  harness  frames, 
if  string  doup   is  used,  known  as  the 


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standard  and  skeleton  harness.  When 
wire  douping  heddles  are  used,  it  re- 
quires three  harness  frames.  We  will 
for  convenience  deal  with  the  string 
doup;  this  douping  heddle  is  but  a 
half  heddle,  so  to  speak.  This  half 
heddle  is  usually  fastened  at  the  bot- 


Fig.  1. 


torn  of  the  skeleton  harness  frame 
and  connected  with  the  stand  and 
harness  heddle  by  passing  through  the 
upper  opening  of  the  standard  hed- 
dle, then  tiirough  the  eye  of  the  stand- 
ard heddle,  then  fastened  at  the  bot- 
tom  of   the   skeleton   harness   frame. 


g68 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


(See  Fig.  1.)  The  secret  of  leno 
weaving  will  be  readily  understood  if 
it  is  borne  in  mind  that  it  consists  of 
but  two  movements  of  the  standard 
and  douping  heddles;  these  two  move- 
ments are  that  if  the  standard  and 
doup  heddles  are  raised  at  the  ame 
time,  the  douping  thread  will  be  on  one 
side  of  the  ground  warp  threads,  that 
is,    it   will    cross    under    the    ground 


toward  the  loom.  When  doup  threads 
are  required  to  cross  under  ground 
warp  threads  the  ;  easing  up  of  the 
doup  threads  must  be  indicated  on 
chain  draft.     (See  Fig.  5.) 

Fig.  3  shows  drawing-in  plan.  Fig.  4 
reeding  plan.  All  leno  fabrics  have 
special  reeding  plans;  the  reed  is 
sometimes  plucked,  that  is,  a  wire  tak- 
en out  of  reed,  so  as  not  to  overcrowd 


threads;   if,  however,  only    the    doup 

heddles  are  raised,  the  douping  thread 

will    remain    in    its    normal    position; 

that   is,   it   will   not   cross   under   the 

ground   threads.     We  must,  however, 

bear  in  mind  that  in  no  case  can  the 

standard  heddle  be  raised  without  also 

raising    the    doup    heddle;    when    the 

standard  and  doup  are  raised  together, 

we  must  also   slacken  or  ease  up  on 

the  doup  warp  threads  in  order  to  al- 

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DOBaanao 

DDDBDaDa 

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DDnaanDD 

□DBDaDDD 

aoaaaaaa 
naaanaGa 
Daammaaa 
aaaaaaaa 
naaaDBDa 
□DBuaaDO 

Q  SUckeoer 

Fis.  5. 
low  them  to  cross  under  the  ground 
warp  threads.  This  is  done  by  means 
of  a  slaokener  or  easing  rod.  This  rod 
is  similar  to  what  is  known  as  tne  whip 
roller  in  ordinary  weaving.  The  doup 
threads  pass  under  this  rod  into  the 
eye  of  the  doup;  this  rod  is  so  ar- 
ranged that  it  will  let  up  or  relieve  all 
tension  from  doup  threads  by  moving 


the  threads.  This  is  usually  done 
when  doup  threads  cross  under  six  or 
more  ground  threads;  the  doup  thread 
must  be  in  same  dent  with  the  ground 
threads  under  which  it  crosses. 
ANALYSIS. 
1,400  reed'  special  denting;  70  picks 
per  inch;  38  inches  in  reed.  Finished 
36  inches. 

"WARP. 
9  white. 
2  medium    blue. 
6   white. 

2  medium    blue. 
9   white. 
2  dark   blue. 

1  white — 2-ply. 

2  dark    blue. 

1  white — 2-ply. 

2  dark    blue. 

36 
As    the    warp    layout    Is    on    36    ends,    the 
cloth    contains    two    repeats   of    the    same    to 
one  repeat   of  the  weave. 

Draw  the  2-ply  yam  from  the  top 

beam. 

FILLING. 
20  white  1-508. 
Pins.  Ends. 

5.'9   Black  48   l-40s. 

233   Dark  blue  20   l-40s. 
56   Black  4   2-40s. 

84S  Pins,  Including  selvages.  Selvages  2-40s 

black. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


669 


Take-up  during  weaving  ground 
warp  10  per  cent. 

Take-up  during  weaving  doup  warp 
65  per  cent.  The  take-up  as  noted 
upon  this  fabric  on  the  leno  yarn  is 
about  65  per  cent,  but  this  amount 
will  vary  widely  according  to  the  fab- 
ric being  produced.  If  the  crossing 
or  leno  thread  moves  over  a  large 
number  of  ground  threads  and  does  it 
continually,  the  take-up  is  very  large, 
whereas  if  it  moves  over  only  a  few 
ground  threads  and  does  it  intermit- 
tently, the  take-up  will  not  be  so 
great.  In  a  good  many  instances  the 
take-up  on  an  ordinary  leno  stripe  Is 
approximately  30  per  cent. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  are  usually  woven  on 
a  dobby  loom,  the  speed  of  which  is 
from  120  to  145  picks  per  minute;  a 
higher  speeded  loom  usually  causes 
considerable  trouble  with  the  doup 
warp. 

The  loom  must  necessarily  carry 
two  warp  beams,  ground  warp  and 
doup  warp  beams.  Great  care  should 
be  given  to  the  setting  of  the  harness- 
es, as  they  should  be  perfectly  even 
and  form  a  perfect  shed  when  In  op- 
eration. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics  are  principally  used 
for  shirts  and  shirtwaistings.  This  re- 
quires that  the  patterns  be  not  too 
large  and  that  the  warp  stripe  be 
more  prominent  than  the  filling  stripe 
when  fabric  is  made  with  filling 
stripe.  There  are  a  good  many  fab- 
rics with  leno  stripes  produced  from 
bleached  and  dyed  yams,  but  there  are 
probably  more  fabrics  containing  leno 
work,  which  are  made  from  grey  yarns 
and  then  either  piece-dyed,  printed, 
or  sold  in  the  white  state.  It  Is  much 
more  satisfactory  to  make  leno  fabrics 
from  grey  yams  than  it  Is  from 
bleached  or  dyed  yarns,  because  yarns 
when  grey  are  stronger  and  strength 
is  essential  to  good  production  in  leno 
work.  Many  grey  shirting  fabrics  are 
decorated  with  leno  stripes.  In  addi- 
tion there  are  many  leno  fabrics  made, 
wherein  silk  is  used  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent and  which  are  woven  with  grey 
yams  and  then  dyed  or  piece  bleached. 


After    the    fabric    leaves    the    loom 

it  is  boiled  off,  then  given  a  light  siz- 
ing, pressed,  then  made  up  into  rolls, 
after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  mer- 
chant. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Leno  fabrics,  like  all  fabrics  having 
a  trade  name  covering  a  certain  class 
of  goods,  are  made  up  cf  various 
counts  of  yarn  and  of  course  the  meth- 
ods used  in  making  the  different 
counts  vary  as  to  the  processes  used, 
also  the.  kind  and  staple  of  cotton  and 
the  speed  and  setting  of  the  different 
parts  of  the  machines.  A  great  many 
times  changing  the  speed  or  setting  of 
one  part  of  a  machine  may  improve 
the  unevenness  of  the  yarn  or  roving, 
or,  if  made  at  the  picker,  stop  licking, 
so  that  it  is  very  hard  or  almost  Im- 
possible to  give  a  hard  and  fast  rule 
of  speed  or  settings  for  the  machines 
that  will  cover  the  whole  of  leno  fab- 
rics. The  particulars  which  are  given 
may  be  taken 

AS  A  FOUNDATION 

from  which  to  work  and  a  little  vari- 
ation one  way  or  the  other  only  will 
be  needed.  For  an  example  of  leno 
yarns,  we  will  consider  the  fabric  to 
be  made  up  of  l-40s  and  2-40s  warp 
and  l-50s  filling  yams.  For  these 
counts  of  yarn  the  equipment  of  the 
second  division  of  mills  will  be  needed. 
The  cotton  generally  used  Is  Allen 
seed  or  peeler  (American  cotton)  of 
114-inch  staple.  Some  mills  comb 
both  warp  and  filling  yarns,  while  oth- 
er mills  comb  only  the  filling  yarns. 
In  this  article  we  will  consider  that 
only  the  filling  yarn  is  to  be  combed, 
although,  if  both  are  combed,  the  par- 
ticulars given  below  may  be  used.  The 
mixing  is  made  as  has  been  previous- 
ly described.  It  being  pointed  out  that 
the  use  of  a  bale  breaker  In  connection 
with  a  blower  will  help  the  cotton  to 
a  great  extent.    An  opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 

are  used.  The  sliver  waste  from  all 
the  machines  up  to  the  slubber  Is  mix- 
ed in  at  the  bins.  At  the  opener  use 
the  particulars  that  have  been  given 


570 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


in  previous  articles.  The  breaker  pick- 
er lias  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type  of  beat- 
er, and  the  speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  clean  all  seeds,  etc.,  from 
under  the  bars  at  regular  and  frequent 
intervals.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  38 
pounds,  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  of  this  machine  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  the  fan  speed  being 
1,100  revolutions  per  minute;  the 
driving  shaft  of  the  picker  making  375 
revolutions  per  minute.  Cut-roving 
waste  is  mixed  in  at  the  finisher  pick- 
er in  the  proportion  of  1  lap  cut  waste 
to  3  laps  raw  stock,  the  cut  roving 
having  been  treated  as  described  in 
previous  articles.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  finisher 
picker  should  be  35  pounds  or  a  12  V^- 
ounce  lap.    The  laps  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD, 

the  draft  of  which  should  not  be  less 
than  100.  The  wire  fillet  generally 
used  for  this  class  of  goods  is  34s  on 
cylinder  and  35s  on  doffer  and  top 
flats.  Set  feed  plate  from  licker-in 
with  20-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge; 
licker  knives  from  licker-in  12-l,000ths 
of  an  inch;  cylinder  under  screen  from 
cylinder  22-l,000ths  inch  in  center  and 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  at  each  end  of 
screen;  top  flats  from  cylinder,  with 
a  12-l,000ths  inch  gauge,  licker-in 
from  cylinder  with  a  l-l,000ths  of  an 
inch  gauge,  doffer  from  cylinder  with 
7-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge.  Always 
set  to  high  places.  Set  the  back  edge 
of  the  back  plate  knife  17-l,000ths  of 
an  inch  from  the  cylinder.  The  front 
plate  knife  has  its  uppar  edge  adjust- 
able in  order  that  the  amount  of  strip- 
ping to  be  taken  from  the  flats  may  be 
regulated.  Setting  this  plate  closer  to 
cylinder 

MAKES  LIGHTER  STRIPPING, 

and  the  farther  away  it  is  set,  the 
heavier  stripping  it  produces.  The 
lower  tdge  of  this  plate  is  set  to  a 
17-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge.  Grind 
and  strip  card  as  previously  described. 
The  top  flats  should  make  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  45  minutes.  The 


percentage  of  waste  taken  out  at  the 
card  for  this  class  of  goods  should  be 
about  41/^  to  4%.  The  production  for  a 
week  of  60  hours  is  700  pounds  with  a 
65  grain  sliver.  Use  a  large  diameter 
doffer.  The  sliver  for  the  filling  yarn 
is  taken  to  the  sliver  lap  machine  and 
doubled  14  into  1  for  an  8%-inch  lap 
or  20  into  1  for  a  10-inch  lap.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  300 
grains.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into 
1.  The  weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front 
end  of  a  ribbon  lap  machine  is  260 
grains  per  yard  for  an  8% -inch  lap. 
Get  weight  for  a  10-inch  lap  by  pro- 
portion. Size  both  ribbon  and  sliver 
lap  machines  once  a  day. 

THE  DOUBLINGS 

at  the  comber  depend  on  the  number 
of  heads  of  the  machine;  recent  ma- 
chines are  generally  provided  with 
eight  heads  with  a  10-inch  lap.  The 
speed  of  the  comber  for  this  class  of 
stock  is  85  nips  per  minute  for  old  ma- 
chines and  100  nips  for  those  of  recent 
construction.  Varnish  rolls  once  a 
week,  using  one  of  the  recipes  given 
in  previous  articles;  in  sticky  or  dog-" 
day  weather  use  a  little  ground  char- 
coal and  gum  arable  dissolved  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  vinegar.  This  swells 
to  five  times  its  bulk.  Take  out  18 
per  cent  waste.  After  passing  the 
combers,  the  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  being  doubled  6 
into  1.  The  speed  of  the  front  roll  at 
each  process  is  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  finisher  drawing  is  70  grains  pei 
yard.  The  card  sliver  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll 
beins:  ."^SO  rovo^vitions  ner  minute.  Th(.' 
weight  of  this  sliver  is  also  70  grains 
per  yard.  The  sliver  is  next  put  up 
at  the  slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank 
roving.  From  here  it  is  put  through 
three  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 

the  hank  roving  at  each  process  being 
as  follows:  First,  intermediate,  1.50; 
second,  4,  and  jack,  12.  Keep  your 
leather  rolls  in  good  condition  and  see 
that  all  parts  of  machine  are  well  oiled 
and  that  top  and  bottom  rolls  are  prop- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


571 


erly  set,  which  for  this  length  of  sta- 
ple should  be  for  fly  frames  as  follows: 
iTont  roll  to  middle,  !%  inches;  mid- 
dle roll  to  back,  ly^  inches.  From  here 
the  roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning 
room,  although  some  prefer  mule  spun 
yarn.  There  is  a  great  difference  in 
the  opinion  of  mill  men  as  to  the  ad- 
vantages and  disadvantages  of  both 
systems,  one  mill  building  with  no 
mules  and  another  including  them  in 
its  equipment.  We  will  consider  both 
yarns  to  be 

FRAME  SPUN. 

For  a  warp  frame  spinning  40s  use  a 
frame  having  a  2%-inch  gauge,  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6 1/^ -inch  traverse, 
28.46  twist  per  inch,  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute  of  spindles.  The  l-40s 
warp  yarn  is  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  the  slasher,  a  good  mixing  for 
which  has  been  previously  given.  The 
2-40s  yarn  is  put  through  a  twisting 
frame  and  spooled.  Enough  spools  are 
put  up  at  the  warper  and  the  ends, 
after  which  run  on  to  a  specially  con- 
structed beam. 

For  the  filling  yarn  l-50s,  use  a  ring 
frame  having  a  2%-inch  gauge,  1^4 - 
inch  diameter  ring,  5 V^ -inch  traverse, 
26.52  twist  and  spindle  speed  of  8,200 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn 
is  conditioned  and  then  is  ready  to  be 
woven. 


Dyeing    Particulars    for    Yarn. 

BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N.  N.; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue 
F.  F. ;  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  BH. : 
1  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  A.;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  naphtamine  brown 
6  B. ;  1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N. 
N. ;  1  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 


MEDIUM  GREEN. 

Six  per  cent  thion  green  G.;   2  per 

cent  tnion  yellow  G. ;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

MEDIUM  BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  tetrazo  dark  brown; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 

MEDIUM  SLATE. 

One  per  cent  tetrazo  black  G.;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 

Three  per  cent  tetrazo  Corinth;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 

RED. 

Three  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B.; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

DARK  GREEN. 

Seven  per  cent  thio  green  B. ;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;    30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

ECRU. 
One  per  cent  thion  brown  G.;   1  per 
cent   sulphide  soda;    2   per  cent   soda 
ash;    20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

FAWN  BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A.; 

2  per  cent  diamine  brown  M.;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 


BEDSPREADS— Crochet  Quilts 

Bedspreads,  also  termed  bed  quilts, 
coverlets  and  counterpanes,  are,  as 
the  names  imply,  used  as  coverings 
for  bed  clothing. 

Being  primarily  decorative  fabrics, 
most  of  them  show  elaborate  jacquard 
designs  of  a  type  peculiar  to  this  class 
of  fabric,  the  use  to  which  they  are 
subjected  necessitating  a  design  of  a 
large,  bold  character  that  is  complete 
in  itself  in  each  quilt. 

Quilts  are  of  various  sizes,  ranging 
from  crib  quilts,  28x63  inches,  to  large 
quilts,  92x108  inches. 


572 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


For  metal  beds  the  quilts  are  some- 
times cut  at  the  four  corners  so  they 
will  hang  better  and  make  a  neater 
appearance. 

Being  a  type  of  fabric  of  universal 
use  in  civilized  countries,  for  all  class- 
es of  people,  quilts  are  necessarily 
made  in  widely  varying  qualities. 
They  are  also  made  in  varying  single 
and  compound  structures  of  cloth,  and 
in  varying  types  of  designs. 

THREE  PRINCIPAL  TYPES. 

Three  of  the  principal  types  of 
structures  are  seen  in  quilts  known  as 
crochet,  Marseilles  and  satin.  The 
first  is  a  single  fabric,  where  all  yarns 
used  show  on  one  side  or  the  other. 

The  second  is  a  compound  fabric,  in 


Fig.  1. 

which  the  extra  yarns  are  generally 
used  for  the  purpose  of  adding  weight 
and  at  the  same  time  producing  an 
embossed  pattern  on  the  face. 

The  third  is  a  double  cloth,  reversi- 
ble, with  some  types  of  designs  in 
which  each  of  the  single  cloths  alter- 
nate from  one  side  of  the  quilt  to  the 
other,  according  to  the  pattern  re- 
quired. 

These  three  types  will  be  considered 
In  the  above  order. 

It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  there 
are  other  names  of  quilts,  as  Toilet, 
Albany,  Mitcheline,  Duree,  Grecian, 
Embroidery,  Tapestry,  Kensington,  Al- 
hambra   and   Honeycomb,   but     these 


may  be  included  in  one  or  another  of 
the  three  principal  types  mentioned. 

CROCHET  QUILTS. 

The  term  crochet  quilt  does  not 
mean  that  said  fabric  is  crocheted 
with  needles,  but  reiers  to  the  sim- 
plest type  of  woven  single  cloth  quilt 
made  with  medium  or  fine  counts  of 
yarns.  Honeycomb  and  Alhambra 
quilts  are  of  the  same  class,  differing 
principally  in  the  type  of  design  used. 

This  class  of  quilt,  for  full  size 
quilts,  shows  variations  in  size  from 
about  68x82  inches  to  80x90  inches, 
and  in  weight  from  about  one  pound, 
12  ounces  to  three  pounds,  9  ounces, 
per   quilt. 

THE  ANALYSIS 
of  an  unbleached  crochet  crib  quilt 
shows  the  following  data:  Width,  31 
inches;  84  ends  and  72  picks  per  inch; 
24s  warp,  12s  soft  twisted  filling.  The 
warp  contains  2,600  ends  and  is  reed- 
ed three  ends  per  dent  in  a  26-dent 
reed.  The  cloth  will  finish  about  28 
inches  wide. 

By  reference  to  Fig.  1,  it  may  be 
seen  that  the  pattern  is  a  stripe  com- 
posed of  four  sections  in  each  repeat, 
as  follows:  First,  a  section  of  honey- 
comb effect,  formed  by  weave  Fig.  2, 
on  t»2^6;  second,  a  continuous  floral  ef- 
fect, filling  flush  weaves;  third,  a 
crepe  effect,  formed  by  weave  Fig.  3 
on  32x12;  fourth,  like  the  second  sec- 
tion, but  dropped  78  picks,  one-half 
the  number  in  each  repeat. 

There  are  a  little  more  than  12  re- 
peats in  the  entire  width.  The  sel- 
vages are  each  one-half  inch  wide, 
reeded  the  same  as  the  ground,  and 
show  an  angled  twill  weave  effect. 

The  length  of  the  pattern  filling  way 
is  2  3-16ths  inches  and  requires  156 
picks  for  a  repeat. 

As  there  are  200  ends  in  a  repeat  of 
the  design,  a  400-hook  jacquard  might 
be  used,  each  pick  of  the  pattern  be- 
ing read  twice  on  each  card. 

THE  LOOM  REQUIRED 
for  this  type  of  fabric  is  of  medium 
weight.  The  pattern  being  small,  a 
small  jacquard  head  of  the  ordinary 
rise  and  drop  type,  or,  if  the  weave 
is  not  required  to  be  changed  to  form 
the  headings  of  the  quilt,  a  double  ac- 
tion head  may  be  used. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


673 


For  the  sample  shown,  if  required 
to  have  headings  at  both  ends  to  com- 
plete the  quilt,  differing  in  weave 
from  the  ground,  what  is  termed  a 
double  or  single  acting  automatic  aux- 
iliary cylinder  jacquard  would  be  the 
most  economical  to  use. 

If  the  ground  weave  was  required 
to  be  repeated  25  times  between  head- 
ings, an  ordinary  jacquard  attachment 


■DBDDO 

aaaaaa 
■■■Dia 

□■OBOB 

BDBana 

□BDDDD 


Fig.  2. 

BI^BOBDBnDBIDBDBnaBaBnBCBBnBDBDBnn 
BDBDBaBBGBDBLjBaaBaBDBDBBaBaBaBaa 
DBaaBGBOBaBBDBDDBDflKDBDDBaBBaBDB 
CBaBaBUaBDBDBaBBaBaBaBDDBaBaBDBB 
DBnaaBaGBaBOBCBBDBDBDBDDBDBaBDBB 
BGBBOBDDBDBBDBaBDBOQBaBaBaBBaBna 
BnBGBQBBaBaBOBaaBOBnBOBBDBaaDBDa 
BaBDBGBBDBDBGBGOBOBGBDBBGBDBGBDa 
BGBBGBGBGBGCBaBBGBaGBOBBDBnGBGBa 
DBGBGBGGBGBGBGBBGBDBQBDDBGBGBDBB 
aBDBaBGGBQBGBGBBnBGBnBGaBDBGBGBa 
OBaaBaBBaBaDBaBGBDBBaBaBaBDDBaBB 

Fig.  3. 

would  require  25x156  picks  in  repeat, 
equalling  3,900  cards  for  the  ground, 
whereas  with  the  auxiliary  cylinder 
machine  156  cards  only  would  be  re- 
quired for  this  same  section. 

For  larger  patterns,  the  capacity  of 
the  jacquard  would  be  required  to  cor- 
respond, i.  e.,  with  more  than  400  ends 
in  a  repeat. 

FINISHING. 

The  goods  are  generally  woven  grey 
from  unbleached  yarn,  and  are  bleach- 
ed and  finished  after  they  leave  the 
loom.  A  quilt  will  shrink  in  width 
about  10  per  cent  from  the  gray  to  the 
finished  state,  and  increase  about  1 
per  cent  in  length. 

After  bleaching,  starching  and  blu- 
ing, they  are  cut,  hemmed  or  fringed 
as  desired,  insppcted,  rolled  or  folded, 
tagged  and  papered. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  leave  finished 
quilts  unpapered  for  any  length  of 
time  if  in  the  same  building  as  the 
bleach  house,  because  the  fumes  from 
the  bleaching  liquors  take  out  the  blu- 
ing in  a  short  time.  If  this  is  done 
after  the  quilt  is  folded,  the  bluing 
is  taken  from  the  outer  layers  only, 
and  uneven,  poor-looking  quilts  result 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  bedspreads  are 
composed  are  made  in  mills  of  the 
second  division.  There  is  one  feature 
about  the  filling  yarn  which  is  not 
common  to  all  fabrics,  and  that  Is,  it 
is  what  is  called  soft  twisted.  The 
counts  of  yam  which  make  up  the 
fabric  to  be  described  in  this  article 
are  24s  warp  and  12s  filling. 

THE  WARP  YARN 
is  made  from  1-inch  staple  Ameri- 
can cotton,  while  the  filling  yarn  is 
made  from  a  good  grade  of  %-inch 
staple  American  stock.  The  mixing  is 
done  in  the  usual  manner,  which  has 
been  described  many  times  before, 
separate  bins  being  used  for  the  two 
staples.  The  good  sliver  waste  from 
all  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mix- 
ed in  at  the  bins.  This  sliver  should 
be  spread  over  the  entire  mixture  and 
not  bunched  in  one  place;  it  should 
also  be  broken  into  short  lengths  so 
that  it  will  not  be  so  apt  to  become 
tangled  around  the  spikes  of  the  hop- 
per. This  hopper  should  be  kept  full 
so  as  to  feed  an  even  amount  of  cot- 
ton to  be  struck  off  by  the  pin  roller 
at  the  top  of  the  lifting  apron. 

The  raw  stock  for  both  warp  and 
filling  yarns  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  picking,  the  breaker  picker 
being  generally  connected  directly  to 
the  opener.    Many  different  kinds  of 

BEATERS 
are  used  by  different  mills,  each  claim- 
ing certain  advantages  over  the  other, 
but  the  style  of  beater  in  most  general 
use  throughout  the  mills  is  what  is 
known  as  the  two-bladed  or  armed 
rigid  type  of  beater,  although  many 
mills  use  a  three-bladed  beater  of  the 
same  style  for  the  breaker  picker.  To 
sharpen  the  edge  of  this  beater  its  side 
is  planed.  The  speed  of  the  beater  used 
for  the  same  stock  and  weight  lap  va- 
ries greatly  in  different  mills  and  the 
speeds  given  below  are  the  ones  used 
in  a  mill  making  this  clasb  of  goods. 
For  the  breaker  picker  the  speed  of 
the  beater  (two-bladed)  is  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  for  the  interme- 
diate, 1,450  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  for  the  finisher  1,350  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  breaker  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 


574 


A   COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ounce  lap,  at  the  intermediate  37 
pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap,  and  at  the 
finisher  39  pounds  or  a  14^^ -ounce  lap. 
At  the  intermediate  and  finisher  pick- 
ers the  laps  are  doubled  four  into 
one.  The  draft  of  the  finisher  picker 
does  not  exceed  three.  At  this  picker 
it  is  customary  to  mix  in  the  roving 
waste  both  cut  and  uncut.  The  roving 
waste  that  has  not  been  cut  from  the 
bobbin  consists  of  that  which  is  made 
by  the  speeder  tenders  when  they  are 
putting  in  new  sets  of  roving  and  tak- 
ing off  single  and  double.  Speeder 
tenders  should  never  be  allowed  to  cut 
off  roving;  all  bad  work  being  sorted 
out,  charged  and  given  to  them  to  fix. 
All  marks  should  be  made  small 
and  near  the  bobbin. 

The  laps  from  the  picker  are  next 
put  up 

AT   THE   CARD, 

the  draft  of  whicli  for  this  fabric 
should  not  exceed  100.  The  wire  fillet 
used  should  be  No.  33s  for  cylinder 
and  35s  for  doffer  and  top  flats.  The 
settings  of  the  card  should  be  the  same 
as  given  for  leno  cotton  fabrics,  al- 
though some  overseers  use  a  little 
wider  settings  for  this  class  of  stock. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  b9 
375  revolutions  per  minute,  cylinder 
165  revolutions  per  minute,  and  the 
flats  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  50  minutes.  The  card 
should  be  stripped,  ground  and  clean- 
ed. The  weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  should  be  about  65  grains 
per  yard,  the  production  for  a  week 
of  60  hours  being  750  pounds.  This 
sliver  is  next  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 

the  doublings  at  each  process  being  6 
into  1.  For  this  class  of  goods  metal- 
lic rolls  may  be  used  to  great  advan- 
tage. If  leather  top  rolls  are  used, 
they  should  be  varnished  frequently 
and  kept  in  good  repair.  See  that  all 
parts  are  working  properly,  especially 
those  parts  which  coil  the  sliver  into 
the  cans,  because  if  these  are  not 
working  properly,  the  sliver  cannot  be 
run  out  at  the  next  process  without  a 
great  deal  of  breaking  back  of  the 
sliver.  Imperfect  coiling  of  the  sliver 
is  a  great  many  times  caused  by  the 


cans  themselves,  they  being  out  of 
true  or  having  broken  parts  sticking 
out  and  coming  in  contact  with  part 
of  the  machine  and  stopping  the  can 
from  turning.  The  only  remedy  for 
imperfect  coiling  is  to  run  it  over 
again. 

The  spread  of  the  front  roll  of  the 
drawing  frame  at  each  process  is  375 
to    400   revolutions   per    mniute.      The 

WEIGHT   OF   THE    SLIVER 

for  warp  yarn  is  70  grains  and  for  the 
filling  yarn,  80  grains  per  yard.  These 
slivers  are  put  up  to  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .40  hank  for  the  %-inch 
stock  and  .60  hank  for  the  1-inch 
stock.  The  process  of  fly  frames  for 
the  1-inch  stock  and  the  hank  roving 
made  at  each  process  are  as  follows: 
First,  2  hank,  and  second,  6.  From 
here  it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  24s  yarn  on  a 
frame  having  a  2% -inch  gauge  of 
frame,  2-inch  diameter  ring,  a  7- 
inch  traverse,  23.27  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  9,600  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spool- 
ed and  put  through  a  warper  and  these 
warps  put  up  at  the  slasher,  the  re- 
quired number  of  ends  being  run  on 
a  beam  at  the  front. 

The  slubber  roving  for  the  filling 
yarn  is  put  on  the  first  intermediate 
fly  frame  and  made  into  1  and  then 
into  2.5  hank  at  the  next  process,  after 
which  it  is  taken  to  the  mule  room 
and  spun  into  12s  yarn  with  a  twist 
per  inch  of  2.75. 

After  leaving  the  loom,  quilts  are 
first  boiled  for  10  hours  with  a 

CAUSTIC   SODA  SOLUTION 

at  4  degrees  Tw.,  rinsed  well  with 
water  and  boiled  again  with  a  4  de- 
gree Tw.  caustic  soda,  10  hours;  rins- 
ed well  with  water,  soured  with  one- 
half  degree  Tw.  oil  vitriol,  rinsed  with 
water,  chemicked  with  one-half  degree 
Tw.  chloride  of  lime  solution,  scoured 
with  1  degree  Tw.  oil  of  vitriol  and 
rinsed  two  or  three  times  with  water. 
The  goods  are  placed  in  the  kiers, 
each  piece  separate,  and  handled  very 
carefully  throughout  the  whole  opera- 
tion. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


575 


BEDSPREADS-MarseiUes  Quilts 

Marseilles  quilts  are  characterized 
by  large  embossed  effects,  usually  of 
elaborate  floral  or  geometrical  design, 
each  pattern  occupying  an  entire  quilt. 


Figl 


The  general  effect  is  similar  to  what 
would  be  formed  by  stitching  a  pat- 
tern on  a  fine  plain  cloth,  which  effect 
is  made  more  prominent  in  the  better 


One  of  the  principal  types  of  designs 
used  reverses  from  the  center  in  both 
directions,  warp  way  and  filling  way, 
as  in  Fig.  1. 

When  designing  for  this  type  it  is 
necessary  to  make  only  one-  quart-er  of 
the  figuring  design,  the  same  occupy- 
ing only  one-sixth  of  the  total  num- 
ber of  ends  in  the  warp,  or  one-half 
of  the  stitching  ends.  The  jacquard 
tie-up  is  on  the  point  or  center  draft 
principle,  /\ ,  which  doubles  the 
capacity  of  the  machine  as  compared 
to  a  straight  tie-up,  and  there  is  an 
attachment  on  the  loom  by  which  the 
cards  are  reversed  when  the  center  of 
the  quilt  is  reached  filling  way. 


w 
W 

w 

w 

N      ON 
/       /  /  •  /  / 
/       /  /  •  / 
>            N  O       N 

V         \     a 

/      /  /       f  /  • 
/      /  /      /  /  • 

N             V            NO 

N           N            \ 

/  /       /  /        /   / 
/  /        /   /        /  / 

N            V             N 
N    .       V       ON 
/J       /  /  •  /  / 
/  /        /  /  •   /  / 

N           SON 

O  N 

•  / 

•  / 
O 

N 
/ 
/ 

w 
w 

w 
w 

\             \ 

/         /  /        /   / 
/         /  /        /   / 
\            >           N 

\           NO 
/       / /       / /• 
/        /  /       /  /  • 
N            N           NO 

N       0  N           N 

// •  /  /        /  / 
/  /  •  /  /        /  / 
N  O      N            N 
N            NOV 

/  /       /  /  •   /  / 

/  /       /   /  •    /  / 

N           N  O       N 

N 
/ 
/ 

N 

/ 
/ 

w 
w 

N      On 
/        /  /  •  /  / 
/        /  /  •  /  / 
N           NO       N 

ON           N 
/  •  /  /        /  / 
/  •   /  /       /  / 
XO        S             N 

N           N           N 

/  /       /  /        /  / 
/  /       /  /         /  / 

\           N            N 
N            N            N 
/  /        /  /        /  / 
//       /  /         / / 

N            N             S 

•  / 

•  / 

o 

N 
/ 
/ 

s        s        s 

5           S 

s 

grades  of  goods  by  weaving  a  coarse 
plain  cloth  at  the  back  and  insert- 
ing wadding  between  the  face  and 
back  cloths.  When  wadding  is  used 
the  stitching  points  form  deep  fur- 
rows, which  indicate  the  pattern. 


When  considering  the  plan  for  the 
card  cutter  only  one-half  of  the  stitch- 
ing ends  and  one-half  the  back  picks 
in  each  quilt  are  considered,  i.  e., 
when  there  are  two  face  picks  to  one 
back  pick. 


676 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


There  are  two  types  of  Marseilles 
weaves,  known  as  ordinary  Marseilles 
and  fast-back  Marseilles.     The  latter 

nmnaam 
aamama 

DGQBDD 

oamama 
Dmaaam 
maanaa 

Fig.  3. 

type  is  used   for  almost  all  but  the 
lowest  qualities  of  goods. 

Design  Fig.  2  illustrates  the  princi- 
ple upon  which  an  ordinary  Marseilles 
weave  is  constructed,  in    which    the 


filling.  On  this  account  the  distance, 
filling  way,  between  the  stitching 
points  is  necessarily  limited. 

In  Fig.  2  the  ends  marked  S  are 
stitching  ends,  raised  over  the  face 
cloth  at  O  on  the  face  picks  and  at  % 
on  the  wadding  picks. 

The  picks  marked  W,  shown  in  type 
/  ,  indicate  wadding,  inserted  for 
the  purpose  of  adding  weight  and  of 
forcing  the  face  cloth  up,  or  embossing 
it.  When  these  picks  are  inserted,  all 
the  face  ends  are  raised. 

Fig.  3  shows  the  motif  or  order  of 
stitching  in  Fig.  2. 


N.       ON 

/        /  /  •   /  / 
/        /  /  •    /    / 

o.       Cs  Ci  K  C^  ?b 
V        •     NO        V 

V             NO 

N            N            \ 

/  /         '  /         '  / 
/  /        /  /         /  ^ 

N            X            X 

\            X       O  N 

ON 
«  / 
•  / 

<  <s       B 
o 

N 

— ) 

w 

W 

/       /  /      /  /• 

/       /"  /      /  /• 

N            N            SO 

\           \ 

y      /  /      /  / 
/      /  /      /  / 

/  /     /  /  •  /  / 
/  /     /  /  •  /  / 

-N            N  O       N 
X      o\         \ 

/  /  •  /  /         /  / 
/  /  •  /  /        /  / 

/ 
/ 

N 
/ 
/ 

w 

N            N            N 
N            V       O 

/       /  /       /   /• 
/       /  /       /  /  • 
X           N            \  O 

N       O  \ 
/        /  f   f   / 

\»        X             X 
\           N       O  X 

/  /      /  /  m  /  / 
/  /     //•-// 

X             X  O        X 
N             NX 

/  /        /   /        /  / 

N 

Q>     B 
/ 
/ 

O  N 
•   / 

w 
w 

/        /  /•  /   / 

\            NO        N 
ON             \ 

.^  vc  ^  «^     ^.  Ci  It 
/  •  /  /     /  / 
/  •  /  /      /  / 

NOV              \ 

/  /        /  /         /  / 

X            N            X 
X            \            \ 

/  /     /  /     /  / 
/  /     /  /      /  / 

X            X            N 

•  / 

Xc^      B 
o 

N 

Ci     B 

/ 
/ 

s       s      s 

s     IS           S 
fl<i  A-. 

5 

wadding  lies  between  the  face  cloth 
and  the  stitching,  also  termed  binder, 
figuring,  or  back,  ends.  These  ends 
when  not  required  to  be  raised  to  form 
the  pattern,  remain  at  the  back  of  the 
cloth  and  are  not  Interlaced  with  the 


FAST-BACK  WEAVES. 
A  fast-back  differs  from  an  ordinary 
Marseilles  weave  in  having  the  fine 
filling;  besides  interlacing  with  the 
face  ends,  it  also  interlaces  with  the 
stitching  ends  when  the  latter  are  at 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


577 


the  back  between  stitchirg  points.  In 
this  way  a  double  plain  cloth  is  form- 
ed, either  of  which  could  be  taken 
away  and  still  leave  a  perfect  single 
cloth. 

In  fast-back  Marseilles  quilts,  both 
face  and  back  weaves  ere  plain,  the 
pattern  being  formed  by  the  stitching 
points. 

In  Fig.  4,  which  shows  a  fast-back 
weave  completed  to  form  the  motif 
Fig.  3,  ends  S  indicate  stitchinj  ends; 
W  indicate  wadding  picks,  and  B  in- 
dicate back  picks. 

Marks  /  show  all  face  ends  raised 
when  wadding  picks  are  inserted; 
stitching  ends  are  all  down  on  these 
same  picks  except  where  they  are  re- 
quired to  be  brought  through  the  face 
cloth  to  form  a  stitching  point. 

When  the  back  picks  are  inserted, 
all  face  ends  are  raised,  as  indicated  at 
Q  ,  and  one-half  of  the  stitching 
ends,  as  at  x,  forming  a  plain  weave 
at  the  back. 

The  ends  and  picks  not  marked  S, 
W  or  B  form  a  plain  weave  on  the 
face. 

Marks  O  show  where  stitching  ends 
are  brought  over  the  face  cloth,  each 
stitching  point  covering  two  face 
picks,  to  define  the  pattern. 

A  standard  make  of  cloth  made 
with  suitable  designs  on  the  principle 
shown  in  Fig.  4  is  as  follows:  Warp, 
40s  yarn  for  face,  20s  for  stitching,  ar- 
ranged 1  end  of  40s,  1  of  20s  and  1  of 
40s;  80  face  and  40  back  ends  per 
inch,  120  average  sley. 

Filling  60s  yarn  for  face  and  back, 
12s  yarn  for  wadding,  picked  1  pick 
of  60s,  2  of  12s,  4  of  60s,  2  of  12s,  1  of 
60s,  repeated;   200  picks  per  inch. 

The  reason  why  the  picks  are  ar- 
ranged as  here  shown  in  preference  to 
arranging  them  2  face,  2  wadding,  1 
back,  is  to  enable  an  even  number  of 
picks  of  one  count  of  filling  to  be  in- 
serted before  the  shuttles  are  changed. 
This  can  be  done  on  a  loom  having  a 
single  box  at  one  end  and  a  multiple 
box  at  the  other. 

When  a  pick  and  pick  loom  is  used, 
which  is  in  the  majority  of  cases,  4 
picks  instead  of  5  complete  the  round 
of  filling,  one  pick  of  6s  taking  the 
place  of  2  of  128  for  the  wadding. 


The  yarns  in  both  warp  and  filling 
are  usually  arranged  2  face  to  1  back, 
making  a  fine  effect  on  the  face  and 
a  coarse  one  on  the  back;  this  in  addi- 
tion to  the  wadding  picks. 

Two  warp  beams  are  required,  one 
of  which,  tliat  containing  the  stitching 
yarn,  is  more  heavily  weighted  than 
the  other  in  order  to  pull  down  the 


t0h, 


% 


Fig.  5. 

stitching  points  and  make  the  em- 
bossed effect  as  prominent  as  possible. 
This  warp  may  be  of  equal  or  of  dif- 
ferent counts  from  the  face  warp.  It 
is  usually  of  lower  counts. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
The  patterns  being  large  and  elab- 
orate, a  jacquard  head  is  of  necessity 
used,  although     not     of    such  a  large 
capacity  as  would  at  first  appear. 


578 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


The  cards  for  this  head  control  the 
action  of  the  stitching  ends  only. 

An  examination  of  Fig.  4  will  show 
that  only  2  ends  are  necessary  to 
complete  the  face  weave,  every  alter- 
nate face  end  working  similarly. 

The  face  ends,  two-thirds  of  the  en- 
tire number,  are  worked  most  eco- 
nomically by  harness  shafts,  gener- 
ally placed  at  the  rear  of  the  comber 
board. 

These  shafts  are  worked  from  the 
head  in  a  positive  manner,  independ- 
ently of  the  pattern  cards. 

To  weave  a  quilt  like  the  one  under 
consideration,  say  90  inches  wide,  an 
1,800  hook  head  would  be  required, 
tied  up  point  draft. 

The  20s  warp  would  contain  3,600 
ends,  and  the  40s  warp  7,200  ends, 
making  a  total  of  10,800  ends  in  the 
quilt. 

On  a  pick  and  pick  loom  Fig.  4  could 
be  woven  with  8  instead  of  10  picks  in 
a  repeat,  the  action  being  as  follows: 
First  pick,  jacquard  rises,  carrying  the 
hooks  selected  for  stitching  by  pat- 
tern card;  all  face  warp  raised;  wad- 
ding filling.  Second  pick,  jacquard 
up;  one-half  of  face  warp  up  and  the 
other  half  down;  fine  filling;  face 
pick.  Third  pick,  jacquard  up;  face 
ends  reverse  positions;  fine  filling; 
face  pick.  Fourth  pick,  jacquard  drops 
and  then  rises  again,  carrying  with  it 
one-half  every  alternate  one,  of  the 
stitching  ends;  all  face  warp  raised; 
fine  filling;   back  pick. 

The  fifth,  sixth  and  seventh  picks 
are  a  repetition  of  the  first,  second 
and  third,  with  perhaps  the  exception 
that  a  fresh  selection  of  stitching  ends 
have  been  raised. 

Eighth  pick,  jacquard  drops,  then 
raises  the  half  of  the  stitching  ends 
not  raised,  and  leaves  down  the  ends 
that  were  raised  on  the  fourth  pick; 
face  ends  all  raised;  fine  filling;  back 
pick. 

The  principal  advantage  claimed  for 
this  method  over  others  is  that  the 
attachment  for  raising  the  stitching 
ends,  one-half  every  fourth  pick,  dis- 
penses with  one-half  of  the  number  of 
cards  ordinarily  required. 

Two  other  methods  are  used  for  ac- 
tuating the  stitching  ends  when  back 


picks  are  inserted.  First,  by  bringing 
jacquard  cards,  called  plain  cards,  into 
play  to  work  them;  this  method-  re- 
quires double  the  number  of  cards 
required  for  the  same  pattern. 

Second,  by  using  2  comber  boards, 
drawing  the  odd  numbered  ends 
through  one  and  the  even  numbered 
ends  through  the  other,  and  raising 
each  board  alternately  every  fourth 
pick. 

When  this  plan  is  adopted  knots  are 
put  on  the  harness  cords  immediately 
above  the  comber  boards  so  that  when 
the  boards  rise  the  cords  and  ends 
are  also  raised. 

Light-weight  Marseilles  quilts  are 
known  as  Toilet  quilts.  They  vary  in 
weight  from  about  2.5  pounds  to  4 
pounds  per  quilt. 

Heavy-weight  quilts  vary  from  3.5 
pounds  in  narrow  quilts  to  6  pounds 
for  wide  goods. 

In  the  lightest  and  cheapest  grades 
of  fabrics  wadding  picks  are  omitted, 
but  when  made  on  the  fast-back  prin- 
ciple the  back  filling  is  considerably 
coarser  than  the  face  filling. 

The  processes  of  finishing  are  some- 
what similar  to  those  explained  in  the 
article  dealing  with   crochet  quilts. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Marseilles  quilts  are  of  a  better 
quality  than  the  quilts  described  in 
the  preceding  article,  but  are  made  in 
the  same  division  of  mills.  The  quilts 
under  description  require  four  differ- 
ent sizes  of  yarn,  which  are  as  fol- 
lows: 40s  and  20s  for  warp  and  608 
and  12s  for  the  filling.  For  12s  yarn 
use  cotton  of  from  %  to  1  inch  in  sta- 
ple; for  the  20s  and  40s  use  1%- 
inch  stock  and  for  60s  IV^  to  11  inch 
stock,  all  American  cotton.  For  the 
filling  yarn  a  soft  twist  is  used  and  it 
is  generally  mule  spun.  Mix  raw  stock 
by  usual  method,  of  course  the  differ- 
ent staples  being  mixed  in  separate 
bins.  Hand  mixing  is  generally  used 
on  this  class  of  goods,  but  it  would  be 

OF   GREAT   ADVANTAGE 
to  use  a  bale  breaker  or  willow  to  pre- 
pare the  cotton  before  it     is     fed  to 
openers.     All  stocks  are  put  through 
an  opener  and  three  processes  of  pick- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


579 


ing.  The  speed  of  the  beater  (rigid, 
two-bladed  style)  for  all  stock  except 
the  i-inch  is  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute.  For  the  short  stock  the  speed 
should  be  increased  so  as  to  take  out 
the  extra  amount  of  dirt  which  is  al- 
ways in  short  staple  cotton.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  for 
all  staples  should  be  40  pounds  or  a 
.16-ounce  lap.  At  the  intermediate  the 
speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute  for  all  stocks,  except 
the  short  stock,  where  speed  should 
be  increased.  The  total  weight  of  lap 
at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap  for  the  finer  yarns  and  a  10-ounce 
lap  for  the  stocks  for  12s  and  20s  yarn. 
These  are  put  up  at 

THE  FINISHER  PICKER 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  picker 
the  cut  roving  is  mixed  in  in  propor- 
tions that  have  been  described  in  pre 
vious  articles.  The  speed  of  this  beat 
er  varies  from  1,400  to  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  according  to  the 
yarn  being  put  through,  the  higher 
speed  being  used  for  the  stock  for  the 
12s  yarn.  This  gives  the  stock  for  20s, 
40s  and  60s  about  42  beats  or  blows 
per  inch.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  as  follows:  35  pounds 
for  the  60s  and  40s  yarns  and  39 
pounds  for  the  12s  and  20s  yarns,  or  a 
12%-ounce  lap  for  li-inch  stock,  and 
14-ounce  lap  for  the  other  stocks.  A 
variation  of  one-half  pound  either  side 
of  standard  is  allowed  for  all  the 
stock,  except  the  %-inch  staple,  for 
which  a  variation  of  10  ounces  eithe 
side  of  staple  is  allowed.  Follow  in- 
structions about  oiling,  cleaning,  etc., 
that  have  been  given  in  previous  arti- 
cles. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  fitted  up  with  34s  wire  fillet 
for  cylinder  and  36s  for  top  flats  and 
doffer.  The  draft  of  the  card  should 
be  as  follows:  110  for  60s  and  40s 
yarns  and  not  over  100  for  the  shorter 
staples.  Speed  of  licker-in  is  about 
325  for  long  staple  and  375  for  %-inch 
stock.  The  speed  of  the  flats  for  the 
different  stocks  is  as  follows:  1  com- 
plete revolution  in  40  minutes  for  60s 
yarn,  50  minutes  for  40s  yarn,  55  min- 
utes for  20s  yarn  and  60  minutes  for 


12s  yarn.  Strip  cards  three  times  a 
day,  except  for  the  i-inch  stock,  when 
an  e'xtra  stripping  of  both  cylinder 
and  doffer  should  be  made,  although 
some  overseers  strip  only  three  times, 
while  others  strip  the  doffer  only  an 
extra  time.     Use  same 

SETTINGS 
for  card  as  were  given  in  the  last  ar- 
ticle except  for  the  %-inch  stock, 
when  those  for  indigo  prints  should 
be  used.  The  production  for  a 
week  of  60  hours  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: 1,000  pounds  for  %-inch  stock, 
800  pounds  for  the  20s  yarn,  750  for 
40s  yarn  and  700  pounds  for  60s  yarn. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  65  grains 
for  all  staples. 

The  cotton  for  60s  is  combed  and  the 
instructions,  weights,  etc.,  given  in 
the  last  article  may  be  used  for  the 
40s  and  20s.  The  card  sliver  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  picking 
and  for  the  12s  only  two  processes 
are  used.  Either  metallic  or  leather 
top  rolls  may  be  used.  We  should  rec- 
ommend metallic  rolls  for  the  coarser 
work. 

The  weight  per  yard  at  the  finisher 
drawing  should  be  70  grains  for  all 
staples  except  the  %-inch,  which 
should  be  80  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  should  be  about 
400  pounds  for  coarse  work  and  350 
for  finer  staples. 

THE   DRAWING 

is  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  made  in- 
to .60  hank  for  20s,  40s  and  60s  yarns 
and  .40  hank  for  12s  yarn.  The  roving 
for  60s  and  40s  yarns  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames  and  for 
20s  and  12s  yarns  two  processes  are 
used.  The  hank  roving  for  each  yarn 
and  the  hank  roving  at  each  process 
is  as  follows:  For  60s  yarn,  first  inter- 
mediate, 1.50;  second,  4.50;  and  fine, 
12.50  hank.  For  40s  yarn  first  inter- 
mediate, 1;  second,  3;  and  fine,  8  hank. 
For  20s  yarn,  first  intermediate,  1.50; 
second,  4.  For  12s  yarn,  first  inter- 
mediate 1,  and  second,  3  hank. 

THE   ROVING 
for  the  filling  yarns  is  generally  mule 
spun,  because  a  soft  twist  is  put  in, 
about  2.75  x  square  root  of  yarn  being 


6^0 


A  COTTON  F^ABRICS  GLOSSARY 


used.  For  the  warp  j-arn  a  ring  framr 
is  used.  Of  course  if  this  fabric  is 
made  in  a  mill  having  only'  ring 
frames  both  yarns  will  have  to  be  ring 
spun.  The  yarns  for  filling  after  be- 
ing spun  at  the  mule  are  all  ready  to 
be  woven  after  being  conditioned. 
For  spinning  40s  on  a  ring  frame  use 
a  frame  with  2% -inch  gauge,  1%-inch 
diameter  of  ring,  6i^-inch  length  of 
traverse,  28.46  twist  per  inch  and 
spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions  pe 
minute;  for  20s  use  a  frame  with  2%- 
inch  gauge,  2  inches  diameter  of  ring; 
7  inches  length  of  traverse,  21.24  twist 
per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of  9,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  After  pass- 
ing the  ring  frame  the  yarn  is  spooled 
and  warped  and  the  40s  yarn  is  put 
through  the  slasher. 


BEDSPREADS  —  Satin  Quilts 

Satin  quilts,  so  called,  are  distin- 
guished by  having  a  fine,  smooth 
ground,  from  which  the  pattern  ap- 
pears to  stand  up.  This  pattern  is 
made  with  coarse  filling  interlaced 
with  a  comparatively  fine  warp.  The 
latter  is  almost  lost  to  view  in  the 
coarse  filling,  unless  examined  close- 
The coarse  filling  floats  over  the 
ground  yarns  to  form  the  pattern,  and 
under  them  when  not  required  to  form 
the  pattern,  being  bound  with 
binding  yarns,  so  called,  generally  in 
plain  cloth  order.  The  binding  warp 
is  all  down  when  the  ground  filling  is 
inserted. 

The  ground  yarns,  warp  and  filling, 
are  of  medium  counts. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  the  effect. 
The  term  satin  is  probably  used  on 
account  of  the  fine  appearance  of  the 
ground,  and  not  from  any  reference  to 
the  weave,  as  both  ground  and  figuring 
weaves  are  generally  plain. 

MINOR  VARIATIONS 

in  weave  have  been  made  from  time  to 
time,  and  patents  granted  for  them, 
with  the  result  that  these  goods  are 
now  sold  in  the  market  under  different 
names.  In  1868  a  patent  was  granted 
for  this  type  of  quilt,  known  then  and 


now  as  Mitcheline,  in  which  a  bold 
figure  is  generally  woven  on  a  plain 
ground,  the  figure  being  plain,  twill  or 
satin  as  desired. 

Other  names  now  used  for  practi- 
cally the  same  type  of  quilt  kre  Duree, 
patent  satin,  embroidery  and  Kensing- 
ton. 

Although  generally  woven  white, 
some 

VERY  GOOD  EFFECTS 

are  obtained  in  satin  quilts  by  using 
colored  ends  in  stripe  form  for  the 
ground,  as  in  Fig.  2. 

An  analysis  of  the  sample  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  2  shows  the  following 
data:  Ground  warp,  30s;  binding  warp, 
20s;  ground  filling,  30s;  coarse  filling, 
3s. 

All  binding  ends  are  white  ends. 

The  ground  warp  yarns  are  ar- 
ranged 3  white,  3  blue,  alternately. 

There  are  69  ends  per  inch,  46  of 
30s  and  23  of  20s,  arranged  2  of  30s 
and  1  of  20s  alternately. 

The  warp  yarns  are  usually  arrang- 
ed 2  ground,  1  binder,  although  other 
arrangements  are  used.  The  filling  is 
arranged  2  of  ground  and  2  of  coarse, 
or  1  pick  of  each  alternately. 

The  principle  of  construction  of  sat- 
in quilt  weaves  is  illustrated  in  Figs. 
2,  3  and  4. 

The  effect  seen  in  Fig.  2  is  like  the 
motive  Fig.  3,  each  end  of  which  rep- 
resents 18  ends  in  the  cloth;  each  pick 
in  Fig.  3  corresponds  to  8  picks  in  the 
cloth. 

The  complete  weave  is  illustrated 
in  Fig.  4,  where  ends  B,  every  third 
end,  are  binding  ends;  picks  C  are 
coarse  picks.  Solid  squares  show 
where  these  ends  and  picks  interlace 
to  form  a  plain  weave.  Marks  x  show 
where  the  ground  ends  and  ground 
picks  weave  plain. 

Marks  .  (dots)  show  where  the 
ground  warp  is  raised  when  coarse 
filling  is  inserted,  leaving  the  latter 
at  the  back  as  not  being  required  to 
form  the  pattern. 

On  the  same  picks  in  which  these 
marks  occur  it  may  be  noticed  that 
some  of  the  ground  ends,  indicated  by 
=  =,  are  down,  allowing  the  coarse 
filling  to  float  over  them.       It  is  at 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


681 


these  places  that  the  latter  forms  the 
figure.  In  Fig.  4  these  marks  indi- 
cate filling.  All  other  marks  indi- 
cate  warp. 

Two  beams  are  required.  The 
ground  beam  is  more  heavily  weighted 
than  the  other,  the  idea  being  to  al- 
low the  coarse  filling  to  show  as 
prominently  as  possible,  and  this  fill- 
ing passing  first  to  one  side  of  the 
cloth   and   then   the   other,   and   lying 


quire  a  much  larger  number  of  hooks, 
usually  from  2,400  to  3,600. 

Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  use 
two  jacquard  heads  over  one  loom. 
The  loom  part  itself  is  somewhat  sim- 
ilar for  both  types  of  quilts.  Two 
shuttles  are  used,  one  for  each  count 
of  filling,  picking  1  and  1  or  2  and  2 
alternately  as  required. 

One  concern  builds  a  jacquard  head 
designed  especially  for  weaving  satin 


\ 

:  ,    ^.    .• 

Fig.  1. 


practically  flat,  not  being  bent  out  of  a 
straight  line  by  the  warp,  necessitates 
the  binder  warp  being  held  somewhat 
slack. 

The    goods    vary     in    weight  from 
about  3  to  5  pounds. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Satin     quilts,     although    containing 
fewer  ends  than  Marseilles  quilts,  re- 


quilts.    It  is  built  straight-lift,  or  rise- 
and-drop  as  desired. 

With  this  machine  the  ground 
picks  are  woven  plain,  satin,  or  twill 
as  desired,  without  the  action  of  the 
cards  or  cylinder.  This  saves  labor 
in  making  the  design  and  cutting  the 
cards  because  in  making  a  design  the 
figure  only  need  be  dealt  with.  The 
binder  ends,  working    plain    all    the 


682 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


time  with  the  coarse  picks,  may  be 
drawn  through  harness  shafts  and 
worked  from  the  head,  irrespective  of 
the  cards,  as  in  Marseilles  weaving. 
The  cards  actually  need  actuate 
only  the  ground  ends  on  the  coarse 
picks,  the  remainder  of  the  ends  and 
picks  being  actuated  in  a  positive 
manner  by  the  head. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing     of  white     quilts     Is 
about  the  same  for  all  types,  with  the 


-  -  ''' 


,:,.a'isaril^:L  ■  y  ■- - 1 


Fig.  2. 

exception  that  some  need  more  blue 
and  starch  than  others.  Briefly,  they 
are  bleached,  washed  to  remove  the 
acid,  run  through  blue  mangle, 
starched,  dried,  cut,  hemmed,  or 
fringed,  inspected,  folded,  ticketed, 
bundled  and  packed. 

In  some  mills  it  is  the  custom  to 
weave  the  number  of  the  loom  on  each 
quilt  as  it  is  being  woven,  so  that  if 
any  defect  shows  up  in  any  of  the  sub- 


sequent  processes   it   can   be   readily 
traced  to  its  source. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Satin  quilts  are  made  in  the  same 
division  of  mills  as  the  fabric  de- 
scribed in  the  last  article.  The  cotton 
used  is  similar.  The  make-up  of  satin 


ODDHB 

omamam 

GDQBaH 
■■■DDO 
■DBDin 
■■■DDQ 


Fig-.  3. 

quilts  differs  in  different  mills  and 
even  in  the  same  mill  different  grades 
of  this  fabric  are  made.  The  quilt  that 
has  been  analyzed  for  this  article  is 
made  up  of  the  following  counts  of 
yarns:  30s  and  20s  warp  yarn  and  3s 
and  30s  filling  yarn.  As  stated  above, 
all  the  yarns  except  the  3s  would  be 
made  up  of  cotton  of  IMo  to  1%-inch 
staple.  The  3s  would  be  made  from  a 
shorter  staple,  say  %  to  %  inch,  and 
mixed  with  waste,  as  will  be  shown 

THE  MIXING. 
The  cotton  for  the  warp  and  filling, 
except  the  3s,  is  mixed  in  the  usual 
manner  and  after  being  allowed  to 
stand  as  long  as  possible  (in  order 
that  it  may  dry  out),  the  good  waste 
from  the  machines  up  to  the  slubber, 
which  is  collected  at  regular  inter- 
vals, is  mixed  in  at  this  point,  care 
being  used  to  break  up  sliver  waste 
into  small  lengths  and  to  spread  the 
sliver  throughout  the  entire  mixing, 
so  that  it  will  not  all  be  fed  to  the 
feeder  at  once.  In  some  mills  a  very 
small  percentage  of  comber  waste  is 
mixed  in  at  this  point,  but  it  is  not 
the  general  custom  to  use  a  mixture 
of  this  kind.  For  the  3s  yarn  the  mix- 
ing is  made  up  of  a  certain  per  cent 
of  waste,  the  exact  percentage  de- 
pending upon  the  mill  making  the 
quilts;  it  may  be  from  25  to  60  per 
cent.  Generally  speaking,  card  and 
comber  waste  is  used. 

PICKING. 
The  finer  mixture  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  picking, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


583 


the  speeds  and  other  particulars  be- 
ing the  same  as  given  in  our  last  arti- 
cle for  the  number  yarn.  For  the 
coarser  yarn  only  two  processes  of 
picking  are  used,  the  speed  of  the 
beater  at  the  breaker  being  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  and  at  the  finisher 
being  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
breaker  is  40  pounds  and  at  the  fin- 
isher 39  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap  at 
breaker  and  a  15-ounce  lap  at  finisher. 
A  variation  of  12  ounces  either  side  of 
standard  weight  is  allowed  for  these 


be  taken  to  see  that  the  wire  fillet  on 
the  top  flats  does  not  become  choked 
up  with  the  fly.  In  cards  that  have 
been  in  use  for  some  time  it  is  the  rule 
rather  than  the  exception  to  find  fly 
at  this  point.  Sometimes  an  adjust- 
ment of  the  brush  up  may  entirely 
remedy  the  defect,  but  if  not  the  fly 
has  to  be  picked  out  by  hand;  or  a 
better  way  is  to  put  the  stripping 
brush  on  the  grinding  brackets  and 
drive  it  at  a  slow  rate  of  speed  un- 
til the  flats  have  made  either  two  or 
three  complete  revolutions. 


X  ^  X  X  >< 


1 


%»=  .-r-    /2x 


F.g  4 


X  *      X  *      K 


y        X         X X 


1 


2^ 


3  X 


fi  Bl\      B 

X         3 


3  X 


:u 


laps.  Look  out  to  keep  your  drafts 
so  regulated  that  they  will  not  cause 
the  laps  to  split  and  lick.  These  laps 
are  next  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD 
and  as  it  is  the  custom  to  use  but 
one  count  of  wire  fillet  in  a  mill,  the 
count  used  for  this  style  of  quilts 
would  be  the  same  as  that  used  for 
bedspreads  as  given  in  the  last  arti- 
cle. 

The  other  particulars  given  in  that 
article  may  also  be  used.    Care  should 


ANOTHER  POINT 


to  look  out  for  is  to  see  that  the 
top  fiats  are  ground  perfectly  even. 
A  great  many  overseers,  if  they  look 
at  the  flats  sharply,  will  be  surprised 
to  see  that  they  are  grinding  more  off 
of  the  back  of  the  flat  than  at  the 
front.  This  may  not  be  the  grinder's 
fault,  but  may  be  due  to  a  defective 
grinding  device,  the  main  point  being 
that  they  are  not  grinding  in  the 
same  manner  as  they  are  working.  It 
is  just  as  well  to  grind  the  flats  at 


584 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


least  once  a  year  on  a  flat  grinding 
machine,  the  flats  having  to  be  taken 
off  to  do  this;  which  of  course  means 
the  loss  of  production  for  that  card 
for  a  certain  length  of  time,  but  it  will 
mean  a  better  quality  of  sliver,  which 
will  more  than  offset  the  former,  as 
a  great  deal  closer  settings  may  be 
used. 

THE  PRODUCTION 
for  a  week  of  60  hours  for  all  counts 
of  yarn  (in  this  article)  except  the 
3s  should  be  825  pounds  and  for  the 
coarse  yarn  950  pounds.  The  weight 
of  the  card  sliver  is  65  grains  for  all 
stocks.  The  yarn  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  for  the 
finer  counts  and  two  processes  for  the 
coarse  yarn.  The  top  rolls  used  may 
be  either  leather  covered  or  metallic. 
The  advantages  of  both  have  been  pre- 
viously stated.  The  speed  of  the  front 
rolls  for  the  longer  staple  cotton  is  400 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  for  the 
short  staple  425,  if  convenient;  or  it 
may  be  run  on  the  same  line  of  ma- 
chines as  the  longer  staple  cotton, 
when  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  would 
have  to  be  the  same.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  for  the  30s  and  20s  yarn 
should  be  70  grains  per  yard  and  for 
the  3s,  80  or  85  grains  per  yard.  The 
sliver  is  put  through  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .60  hank  roving  for  flne 
counts  and  .40  hank  roving  for  the 
coarser  count.  The  roving  for  the  30s 
is  put  through  two  processes  of 

FLY  FRAME, 
the  hank  roving  being  as  follows:  Two 
hank  for  first  intermediate  and  6.25 
hank  for  the  next  process;  for  the  20s 
the  hank  roving  would  be  just  the 
same  at  the  first  intermediate,  but  4.50 
at  the  last  process.  For  the  3s  the 
roving  would  be  put  through  only  one 
more  process,  where  it  would  be  made 
into  1  hank  roving.  It  is  the  general 
custom  to  spin  the  yarn  for  this  class 
of  fabric  on  mules  on  account  of  the 
soft  twist  being  put  into  it,  but  in 
some  cases  the  yarn  is  spun  on  the 
ring  frame.  The  particulars  given  in 
previous  articles  for  20s  and  30s  yarn 
may  be  used,  with  the  exception  of  the 
twist,  which  should  be  less  than  that 
given.    If  mule  spun,  the  standard  for 


twist  used  should  be  2.75  times  the 
square  root  of  the  count.  If  the  3s  are 
spun  on  a  ring  frame,  a  frame  should 
be  used  with  a  2i-inch  gauge,  11- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6l^-inch  trav- 
erse. After  passing  through  the  ring 
frame  the  warp  yarn  is  put  through 
the  spooler  and  warper  and  then 
through  the  slasher,  and  finally  run 
upon  a  beam  which  has  the  required 
number  of  ends  to  make  the  quilt 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

SKY   BLUE   FOR   STRIPES- 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's  salt. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. 
One  per  cent  chromine  yellow  G;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  naphtamine 
brown  N;  %  per  cent  naphtamine  yel- 
low N  N;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt. 

RED. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  2 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  2  per 
pent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F.; 
11/4  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  F  F.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda,  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt;  after-treat  with  2  per  cent 
sulphate  of  copper. 

PEARL. 

One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  dark 
blue  B.;  ^4  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  after-treat  with  %  per 
cent  bichrome;  %  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


685 


RAINCLOTH 


Raincloth,  commonly  so-called,  has 
no  particular  style  of  construction  or 
character  of  weave,  the  name  being 
acquired  from  the  fact  that  the  fab- 
ric is  waterproofed  during  the  finish- 
ing process. 

The  most  popular  and  best  grades 
of  raincloth  may  be  defined  as  closely 
woven,  smooth-face  fabrics,  made  with 
twist  warp,  that  is,  cotton  and  wool, 
of  cotton  and  worsted  twisted 
together,  and  with  all  worsted  or  wool 
filling.  The  weave  used  for  this  fab- 
ric is  what  may  be  termed  a  five-har- 
ness satin  ? -  ,  see  Fig.  1.  This  fab- 
ric, as  the  name  implies,  is  exclusive- 
ly made  up  into  raincoats  or  craven- 
ettes,  worn  principally  as  a  covering 
in  damp  or  rainy  weather.  The  fabric, 
after  it  is  finished,  is  impervious  to 
water. 

Raincloth  is  a  piece-dyed  fabric. 
Such  shades  as  drabs,  fawns,  light  and 
dark  browns  and  black  are  the  pre  • 
vailing  colors.  The  warp  yarn,  as  al- 
ready mentioned,  is  a  two-ply  thread, 
composed  of  a  very  fine  cotton  thread 
and  coarser  count  of  worsted  or  wool- 
en thread.  The  fabric  is  given  a  wool 
dye.  The  cotton  does  not  take  on  col- 
or. The  finished  fabric  presents  what 
is  termed  a  powdered  effect,  that  is, 
little  specks  of  white  show  over  the 
entire  surface  of  the  fabric. 

The  fabric  may  be  elaborated  by 
means  of  mercerized  cotton  threads 
being  inserted  at  regular  intervals  in 
both  warp  and  filling,  producing  check 
or  plaid  effects,  or  by  using  a  given 
number  of  solid  worsted  threads  and 
a  given  number  of  twist  threads  ar- 
ranged in  some  order  producing  a 
stripe  effect.  The  fabric  is  also  va- 
ried as  regards  quality,  in  so  far  that 
it  is  made  with  coarser  counts  of  yarn, 
and  less  ends  and  picks  per  inch;  in 
the  cheaper  qualities  the  plain  weave 
and    ^ twill  are  much  in  evidence. 

Analysis  follows  of  a  first-class  fab- 
ric: 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  60  inches; 
width   of   fabric   finished,    56   inches; 


ends  per  inch  in  reed,  84;  ends  in 
warp,  5,040. 

21x4  reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 
per  cent. 

Weight  per  yard  finished,  10  ounces. 

Warp  yarn  2-50s  worsted  counts, 
composed  1  end  of  l-30s  worsted,  1 
end  1-lOOs  cotton. 

Filling,  80  picks  per  inch  in  loom, 
l-35s  worsted  yarn. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

For  plain  raincloth,  that  is,  a  one- 
filling  fabric,  a  broad  dobby  loom, 
speed  from  140  to  150  picks  per  min- 
ute, may  be  used;  for  the  five-harness 
satin  weave  the  warp  is  usually  drawn 
in  on  10  harnesses  straight  draw,  so 
as  not  to  overcrowd  the  heddles  and 
prevent  chafing  of  the  warp;  for  fancy 
raincloth  the  box,  pick  and  pick  loom 
is  the  one  best  suited  for  these  fab- 
rics. 

FINISHING. 

The  better  quality  of  raincloth  re- 
quires considerable  attention  in  the 
finishing  process.  After  the  fabric 
comes  from  the  loom,  it  is  dyed,  the 
wool  or  worsted  only  taking  color,  the 
cotton  in  the  warp  yarn  remaining 
white.  Twist  yarn  is  more  or  less  ir- 
regular, that  is,  the  cotton  may  be 
more  prominent  in  some  places  than 
in  others;   this  requires  the  fabric  to 

GBDDaDBBOM 

^■□■■aaiiaa 
aanaaaacaa 
BGaaaaaaaa 

anaGaaDBCB 

□BBDBDBBDa 
DaUBBDBDBfc 
BBOBaBBOBD 
BDBBDBOBBa 
BaBaBBDBaB 

Fig.  I. 

DnaOODDDDB 
DDDDDDDDBa 
DDDDDDDBDD 
DaDaDDBDDa 
DDDDOBDDDa 
DDDDBQaDDD 
DGDliDDDDDn 

DnBDaaDDDg 

□BnDDODDDa 

BaaDDaanDn 

Fig.   2. 
Urmwing-ln  Draft. 

be  examined  and  where  the  cotton  is 
found  to  be  too  prominent,  it  is  dark- 
ened or  inked  in  conformity  with  the 
ground  color,  after  which  follows  the 
waterproofing  process.  This  consists 
of  immersing  the  fabric  in  a  combina- 
tion of  ingredients,  such  as  greasy 
matters  of  all  natures,  resin,  paraffin, 


586 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tannic  acid,  drying  oils,  salts  of  alu- 
mina, alums  and  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia. After  it  is  waterproofed,  the 
fabric  is  pressed,  made  up  into  rolls, 
then  made  up  into  garments. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

As  has  been  stated  in  the  analysis 
of  raincloth  given  above,  the  material 
used  in  the  construction  of  the  yarns 
is  wool  and  cotton.  As  in  the  carding 
and  spinning  particulars  only  the  con- 
struction of  the  cotton  yarn  has  been 
described  we  will  follow  the  usual  cus- 
tom and  give  the  processes,  with  the 
particulars  at  each  stage,  through 
which  the  cotton  passes  to  produce  the 
finished  yarn.  The  count  of  the  cot- 
ton yarn  described  for  this  fabric  is 
100s.  This  may  be  made  from  either  a 
fine,  long-stapled  Egyptian  cotton  or 
from  a  Sea  Island  cotton  of  a  staple 
of  1%  to  1%  inches,  the  latter  being 
the  one  most  generally  used.  The  bales 
of  cotton  are  first  stapled  and  graded 
and  all  those  not  up  to  standard 
length  and  quality  are  put  one  side, 
while  the  rest  are  mixed  by  hand. 

A    LARGE    MIXING 

is  made  so  that  there  will  be  as  few 
changes  as  possible  in  the  yarn  made 
from  the  different  batches.  It  will  be 
understood  that  it  is  often  necessary 
to  change  certain  parts  of  different 
machines  for  almost  every  mixing  so 
as  to  suit  some  peculiarity  of  the 
mixing  being  made.  These  changes 
are  generally  slight  and  many  times 
only  mean  the  changes  of  certain 
speeds  of  settings,  but  when  running 
the  different  mixings  the  first  lot  run 
through  should  be  carefully  watched 
to  see  that  it  compares  exactly  with 
the  foregoing  mixture. 

SEA  ISLAND  COTTON 

of  a  long  staple  is  put  through  only 
two  processes  of  picking  and  an  open- 
er. Some  overseers  put  the  cotton 
through  only  one  process.  The  beater 
used  is  generally  of  a  two-bladed,  rigid 
type  and  if  two  processes  are  used  the 
speed  of  the  breaker  is  1,300  revolu- 
tions per  minute  and  the  speed  of  .the 
second,  1,100  revolutions  per  minute. 


As  will  be  seen,  this  speed  is  reduced 
considerably  from  that  of  the  other 
cottons  that  have  been  previously  de- 
scribed and  the  reason  is  that  a  great- 
er speed  of  the  beater  puts  in  neps, 
which,  as  every  one  knows,  is  the  one 
thing  to  be  most  feared,  because  dirt 
can  be  taken  out,  but  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  take  out  neps.  To  be  sure, 
a  greater  portion  of  them  are  taken 
out,  but  it  means  much  extra  work 
and  care  to  do  it,  so  it  is  always  best 
to  see  that  none  are  put  in. 
The  beats  per  inch  given  to  the 
cotton  as  it  is  passing  through  the 
finisher  picker  are  29.  The  total  weight 
of  the  finished  lap  is  28  pounds  or  a 
9 1/2 -ounce  lap. 

These  laps  are  put  up 

AT   THE   CARD. 

The  settings  used  for  this  card  should 
be  close,  a  12-l,000ths-inch  gauge  be- 
ing used  to  set  the  flats  from  the  cylin- 
der and  a  5-l,000ths-inch  gauge  to  set 
the  doffer  from  the  cylinder.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  No.  34s  for  cylin- 
der and  36s  for  doffer  and  flats.  The 
card  should  have  as  many  working  as 
possible  and  the  speed  should  be  one 
complete  revolution  every  35  minutes. 
The  draft  of  the  card  should  never  be 
less  than  130  and  some  overseers  in- 
crease this  to  175  or  180  on  this  class 
of  work.  The  stripping  should  be 
done  three  times  a  day  and  grinding 
as  usual.  The  card  should  be  kept 
unusually  free  from  fly  and  dirt  and 
should  produce  from  250  to  300  pounds 
per  week  of  60  hours.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be  40  grains  per 
yard.  Another  part  of  the  machine 
that  is  changed  differently  from  all 
other  stock  is  the  speed  of  the  licker- 
in.  This  should  be  a  great  deal  less 
than  that  used  for  other  stocks  for  the 
same  reason  as  given  for  the  low  speed 
of  the  beater.  The  speed  of  the  licker- 
in  should  be  dropped  from  350  to  400 
revolutions  per  minute  (the  usual 
speed)  to  about  275  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  card  sliver  is  next 
combed.     The  different 

COMBING   PROCESSES 

vary,  but  those  in  most  general  use 
are  as  follows:     Sliver    lap    machine, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


587 


ribbon  lap  machine  and  comber.  Tlie 
width  of  the  lap  is  another  part  that 
has  also  been  changed  so  that  now  it 
is  10 1/^  inches,  whereas  formerly  an 
8% -inch  lap  was  almost  universal.  The 
following  particulars  will  be  given  for 
an  8% -inch  lap;  when  a  10 1/^ -inch  lap 
is  used  the  proper  weights  may  be 
calculated  by  proportion.  The  dou- 
blings at  the  sliver  lap  are  14  for  an 
8% -inch  lap  and  20  for  a  lOi/^-inch 
lap. 

The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  280  grains.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled 
6  into  1.  The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  265 
grains.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  according  to  the 
number  of  heads  that  the  comber  con- 
tains; formerly  it  was  the  custom  to 
have  six  heads,  but  within  the  last 
few  years  a  comber  of  eight  heads  is 
used.  The  newest  development  in 
combers  is  the  single  head  comber, 
many  finding  this  more  advantageous 
than  the  use  of  any  of  the  previous 
machines.       The 

PERCENTAGE  OF  WASTE 

taken  out  should  be  not  less  than  20 
for  this  class  of  stock  and  the  trim- 
mings and  settings  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: Combing  starts  at  5.  Nippers 
open  at  31/^,  close  at  d%.  Lifters  down 
at  6%  and  up  at  8%  to  9i/4.  Top  combs 
down  at  5.  Feed  roll  commences  to 
move  forward  at  514.  The  start  of  the 
feed  roll  to  a  certain  degree  controls 
the  percentage  of  waste  taken  out  and 
is  the  part  that  is  changed  after  the 
settings  of  the  comber  have  been 
made.  A  later  feeding  means  an  in- 
creased amount  of  waste.  The  detach- 
ing roll  moves  forward  at  5%.  There 
is  a  great  deal  of  difference  in  settings, 
of  the  top  combs  to  segment  and 
cushion  plate  to  needles  or  cylinder, 
among  comber  men,  but  good  settings 
even  for  this  grade  of  stock  are  with 
an  18  gauge  from  cushion  plate  to  half 
lap  and  a  21  gauge  from  top  comb 
to  segment.  Either  a  double  or  single 
row  of  needles  in  top  comb  may  be 
used,  both  having  their  advantages 
and  disadvantages.    The  weight  of  the 


sliver  should  be  about  35  grains  per 
yard.  The  sliver  is  next  put  through 
two  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 

the  weight  of  the  drawing  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  being  60  grains  per 
yard.  Leather-covered  top  rolls  are 
generally  used  for  this  stock  and 
should  be  kept  in  perfect  shape  and 
frequently  varnished,  as  should  the 
leather  detaching  rolls  of  the  comber 
and  the  top  rolls  of  the  sliver  lap  and 
ribbon  lap  machines.  Several  good 
recipes  for  varnish  have  been  given 
in  previous  articles,  one  of  which  may 
be  used.  The  sliver  is  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .80  hank 
roving.  The  front  top  rolls  of  this 
machine  are  generally  varnished  and 
some  mills  use  rolls  of  a  larger  diam- 
eter, claiming  less  licking.  The  twist 
put  in  is  the  square  root  of  hank  be- 
ing made.  The  slubber  roving  is  next 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  proc- 
ess being  as  follows:  First  interme- 
diate, 2.25;  at  the  second  intermediate, 
5,  and  at  the  jack  frames,  20  hank.  The 
standard  twist  per  inch  is  the  square 
root  of  hank  times  1.10  at  first  and 
second  intermediates  and  1.20  at  fine 
or  jack  frames.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  see  that  the  roving  is  properly  laid 
on  the  bobbin  and  that  the  bobbin, 
when  full,  is  properly  built;  also  that 
the  settings  of  the  rolls  and  traverse 
are  correct.  This  yarn  is  either  mule 
or  ring  spun.  If  ring  spun  the  partic- 
ulars for  a  frame  making  100s  yarn 
are  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  5  inches;  speed  of 
spindles,  9,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  yarn  is  then  spooled  and  then  is 
in  shape  to  be  twisted  with  the  wor- 
sted yarn. 


Dyeing  Particulars — Piece  Dyeing. 
LIGHT   OLIVE   BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  anthracene  acid 
brown  G.;  6  ounces  anthracene  blue 
C;  2  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  after- 
treated  with  1  per  cent  chrome. 


588 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


MEDIUM    BROWN. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  anthra- 
cene chrome  brown  D. ;  ^  per  cent  an- 
thracene yellow  B.  N.;  i^  per  cent 
anthracene  acid  blue  D.;  2%  per  cent 
sulphuric  acid;  after-treat  with  2  per 
cent  chrome. 

NAVY   BLUE. 

Four  per  cent  anthracene  acid  blue 
D. ;  %  per  cent  anthracene  chrome  vio- 
let B.;  3  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  aft- 
er-treat with   y2  per  cent  chrome. 

SLATE. 

One-half  per  cent   anthracene  blue 

C;    1/4    per    cent   anthracene    chrome 

brown  D. ;   1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid; 

after-treat  with  14  per  cent  chrome. 

OLIVE. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  anthra- 
cene acid  brown  G.;  %  per  cent  an- 
thracene brown;  %  per  cent  anthra- 
cene yellow  B.  N.;  1  per  cent  sulphuric 
acid;  after- treat  with  1  per  cent 
chrome. 

DRAB. 

Six  ounces  anthracene  blue  C;    ^ 
per  cent  anthracene  chrome  brown  D.; 
1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;   after-treat 
with  1  per  cent  chrome. 
BLACK. 

Six  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
black  F.  E.;  4  per  cent  aceteic  acid;  2 
per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  after-treat 
with  2  per  cent  chrome. 

DARK  BROWN. 

One  per  cent  anthracene  yellow  B. 
N. ;  3  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
brown  D.;  IV^  per  cent  anthracene 
acid  blue  D.;  3  per  cent  sulphuric 
acid;  2^/^  per  cent  chrome. 
DARK   GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  anthracene  yellow 
B.  N.;  1  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
brown  D.;  3  per  cent  anthracene  blue 
C;  3  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  after- 
treat  with  3  per  cent  chrome. 


mere  in  so  far  as  the  latter  is  finer 
and  used  principally  for  ladies'  dress 
goods.  Cashmeres  are  usually  in  solid 
colors  only,  and  were  originally  made 
in  Cashmere  and  near-by  regions  from 
yarn  hand  spun  from  the  flossy  wool 
of  the  Cashmere  goat. 

"About  the  year  1816,  a  small  herd 
was  imported  into  France  with  the 
view  to  acclimatize  them  and  breed 
them  for  the  sake  of  their  wool,  but 
the  enterprise  failed."  The  foregoing 
facts  will  suggest  that  this  fabric  is 
quite  costly,  consequently  cheaper 
grades,  cotton  and  wooJ  imitations, 
have  a  liberal  demand. 

In  varying  the  quality  of  a  fabric, 
the  manufacturers  have  two  objects  in 
view:  first,  to  reduce  the  cost;  second, 
to  retain  the  same  general  appear- 
ance. It  then  follows  that  the  change 
effected  is  of  degree,  not  of  kind,  con- 
sequently the  variations  usually  con- 
sist in  changing  the  number  of  ends 
and  picks  per  inch,  or  substituting  a 
higher  or  lower  grade  of  yarn  as  the 
case  may  be. 


COTTON  CASSIMERE 

Cassimere  was  originally  understood 
to  mean  a  woolen  cloth  used  for  men's 
wear.    This  fabric  differs  from  ca?h- 


ANALYSIS. 

XXX 

25     1—1—1 

FACE  WARP. 

3 

ends     Black. 

7 

—    1   Black    and    drab. 

—    1   Black   and   white. 

2 

—        Black. 

1 

—        Black  and   white. 

1 

—        Black. 

1 

—        Black   and   white. 

2 

—        Black. 

7 

—    1   Black    and    drab. 

—    1   Black   and   white. 

1 

—        Black. 

x2 

—        Black. 

xl 

—        Bleach. 

28 

BACK  WARP. 

1     Green     x. 

2     Black. 

1     Drab. 

1     Black. 

1     Drab. 

3     Black. 

1     Drab. 

2     Black. 

1     Drab. 

1     Black. 

1     Drab. 

2     Black. 

1     Drab. 

3     Black. 

1     Drab. 

1     Black. 

1     Drab. 

4     Blaclc 

28 
X  Alternate    garnet. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


689 


FACE   WARP. 
11   ends  Black    2/30. 
8  ends  Black   and   drab   2/30. 
8   end.s  Black    and    white    20/60. 
1   end      Bleach    2/40. 

28 

BACK  WARP. 

19   ends   Black     2/30. 
8   ends  Drab   2/30. 
1   end     Green    2/30. 

28 

ENDS  IN  FACE  WARP. 
726   ends  Black. 
52S   ends  BlE^ck   and   drab. 
52S   ends   Black    and    white. 
66   ends  Bleach. 


1.848 

40  ends    selvage. 


ENDS  IN  BACK  WARP. 
1,254   ends  Black. 
528   ends  Drab. 
33  ends  Green. 
33   ends  Garnet. 


1,848 

40  ends  selvage. 


1,8S 


Filling  60  picks  per  inch,   2/26s  black  cotton. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  34  ^nches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  31  inches; 
outside  ends  per  inch,  111;  500x8  reed; 
ends  in  face  warp,  1,848;  20  ends 
2-30s  white  selvage;  total  ends  in  face 
warp,  1,888;  ends  in  black  warp,  1,848 
20  ends  2-30s  white  selvage;  total 
ends  in  back  warp,  1,888;  total  ends 
in  face  and  back  warp,  3,776;  take-up 
of  face  warp  during  weaving,  10  per 
cent;  take-up  of  warp  during  weav- 
ing, 6  per  cent. 

Weight  of  fabric  per  yard  from 
loom,  7.85  ounces.  Weight  of  fabric 
per  yard  finished,  7  ounces. 

When  both  warp  and  filling  are 
changed  from  wool  to  cotton,  as  with 
the  cassimere  under  consideration,  the 
general  appearance  may  be  retained, 
but  the  feel  or  handle  of  the  fabric 
will  be  entirely  different — so  much  so 
that  it  will  be  apparent  to  the  buyer. 

When  such  radical  changes  are 
made  in  fabrics  as  to  substitute  cot- 
ton for  wool,  it  can  no  longer  be  sold 
under  the  same  name;  it  therefore  fol- 
lows that  the  fabric  be  designated,  as, 
for  instance,  cotton  cassimere. 

In  making  these  cheaper  grade  fab- 
rics, the  methods  of  manufacturing  are 


simplified  as  much  as  possible,  chiefly 
because  the  profit  will  not  admit  of 
any  unnecessary  expense.  No  intri- 
cate weaves  are  used;  such  weaves  as 
? twill,      ' basket  weave  and 

■i  '  2 

common  rib  weave  are  principally 
used  for  operating  face  warp.  These 
fabrics  are  generally  made  with  two 
warps.  The  back  warp  interlaces  with 
filling  on  the  8-harness  satin  order. 
(See  Fig.  1.)  These  fabrics  are 
confined  to  16  harness,  8  harness 
for  face  warp  and  8  for  back 
warp ;  the  warp  is  drawn  in  one  end 
face,  and  one  end  back,  the  first  end 
of  face  warp  on  the  first  harness,  the 
first  end  of  back  warp  on  second  har- 
ness. (See  draft.  Fig.  2;  Fig.  3, 
chain  draft). 

The  back  warp  for  these  fabrics  is 
usually   plain   yarn,   twist  yarn   being 


DDDnBaBOnnDnBEBBD 

naumuaaanamamuua 

■OBOQDDGB-SBDCjQDa 

BnaanDBnBDDnQDBa 

DDDDBfflBDDGGDBDBn 

naBnBaaaaoBfflBDDa 

B^BDDDaaBDBDDOaa 
BaDDDDBffiBDnnDDBD 

c janBaBDaanDBfflBa 

D IBfflBnDDODBDBaan 
BaBDnQDDBfflBDDDDD 
BDDDDDBDBDDDnaBffl 
DDDDBfflBaaDDDBDBD 
DaBDBaDDDDBfflBDDn 
BfflBUDOnDBaBDDDOa 

BDaDDDaaBDaaaDBD 


DDnnaBnn 

DnBDDDDn 
UDDDDaDB 

DDDDBnan 
DBaaDonn 

DDDDDDnB 
rDDBDDDa 

BaDDGDnn 


I'll.'.  1.  F  g.  :;. 

too  expensive  and  the  pattern  of  the 
back  warp  usually  differs  from  the 
face  warp  in  regard  to  the  color  ar- 
rangement, but  the  number  of  ends 
must  be  the  same,  if  one  end  face 
warp  and  one  end  back  warp  fabric 
is  required. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  any 
box,  harness  loom.  The  loom  should 
have  stands  for  two  warp  beams,  one 
for  face  warp  and  one  for  back  warp; 
in  some  instances  both  warps  are 
beamed  on  one  beam,  the  back  warp 
beamed  tight  because  of  less  take-up. 
FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  comes  from  the 
loom,  it  is  burled,  examined  and 
mended  if  necessary.  The  face  of  the 
fabric  is  sheared,  after  which  it  is  run 
through  a  rotary  press.  The  fabric 
in  passing  through  the  press  runs 
over  a  perforated  steam  pipe,  which 


690 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


partially  saturates  the  fabric,  then  it 
is  pressed  by  passing  through  heated 
cylinders,  after  which  it  is  made  up 
into   rolls,   then   shipped. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Different  mills  make  cotton  cassi- 
mere  out  of  different  counts  of  yarn, 
but  the  fabric  under  description  is 
composed  of  2-30s  warp  and  2-26s  fill- 
ing. These  yarns  would  be  made  in 
a  mill  belonging  to  the  second  divi- 
sion, as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  yarn  would  be  made  from  Ameri- 
can cotton  of  a  fair  grade,  having  a 
staple  of  about  1  1-16  inches.  The  mix- 
ing should  be  done  by  one  of  the  va- 
rious methods  that  have  been  given 
in  previous  articles.  The  only  point 
to  be  looked  out  for  is  to  see  that  the 


or  is  connected  by  trunking  or  lattice 
work  to  the  opener.  The  beater  of  the 
breaker  picker  for  this  kind  of  stock 
is  generally  of  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
and  its  speed  is  1,550  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce 
lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  in- 
termediate picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  The  beater  of  this  machine 
is  also  generally  of  a  two-bladed,  rigid 
type,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker 
is  37  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are   put  up  at 

THE  FINISHER  PICKER 
and  doubled   four  into  one.     It  is  at 
this   point  that  the   cut -roving   waste 
is  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock.     This 


start  of    iecond    pattern, 
patternl  to  repeat. 


I  equals  face  eDdfl 
I  equals  back  ends 


Fiff.    2. 


cotton  is  thoroughly  dry  and  aired  out 
before  being  put  through  the  opener. 
For  this  class  of  fabric  the  raw  stock 
is  put  through  three  processes  of 
picking  and  an  opener.  The  good 
waste  from  all  machines  up  to  the 
slubber  is  mixed  in  before  the  cotton 
is  fed  to  the  opener.  This  waste  should 
be  picked  up  at  regular  and  frequent 
intervals  and  spread  throughout  the 
entire  mixing,  and  should  not  be  al- 
lowed to  accumulate  in  large  lots,  but 
should  be  run  up  as  fast  as  collected. 
The 

LIFTING  APRON 

should  always  be  carrying  up  a  load 
of  cotton  for  the  pin  beater  to  strike 
off.  This  beater  should  be  so  adjusted 
that  the  proper  amount  of  cotton  is 
passed  to  the  breaker  picker,  which  is 
generally      either    directly  connected 


is  done  by  two  methods,  both  of  which 
have  been  described  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. If  done  by  hand,  care  should  be 
taken  to  see  that  the  percentage  of  cut 
waste  mixed  is  not  too  great,  because 
this  is  apt  to  cause  licking  of  the 
laps  when  they  are  being  run  at  the 
card.  The  beater  of  this  machine 
may  be  either  a  two-bladed  rigid  or 
a  pin  beater,  either  of  which  has  its 
advantages.  If  of  the  two-bladed,  rig- 
id type,  the  speed  should  be  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  gives  the 
cotton  passing  under  its  action  42 
beats  per  inch.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  see  that  all  the  drafts  in  the 
pickers  are  properly  directed  where 
they  will  do  the  most  good.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  for  this  class  of  goods 
should  be  39  pounds  or  a  14i^-ounce 
lap.  A  variation  of  the  standard  of 
half  a  pound  (either  side)  is  allowed. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


591 


All  laps  varying  more  than  this  are 
run  tlirongli  the  finisher  picker  again. 
The  picker  laps  are  put  up 

AT   THE   CARD, 

the  draft  of  which  for  this  class  of 
work  should  not  exceed  100.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  No.  33  for  cylin- 
der and  35s  for  doffer  and  flats.  This 
is  the  American  count  of  the  wire; 
the  equal  English  count  is  No.  lOOs 
for  cylinder  and  No.  120s  for  doffer 
and  top  flats.  The  settings  of  the 
card  should  be  the  same  as  given  in 
connection  with  the  article  on  "IndigL 
Prints."  Strip  cylinder  and  doffe 
three  times  a  day  and  grind  lightly 
at  least  once  a  month — twice  a  month 
is  better — and  then  leave  the  grindei 
on  half  a  day.  The  teeth  should  al- 
ways be  kept  sharp  and  never  allowed 
to  run  faced.  It  is  the  general  rule  of 
grinders  to  set  cards  after  grinding  in 
large  rooms  where  several  grinders 
are  employed.  It  is  better  to  have  one 
grinder  or  boss  grinder  to  set  all  the 
cards  and  hold  him  responsible.  Keep 
cards  clean,  especially  the  front  end 
around  and  over  the  doffer  bonnet. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
375  revolutions  per  minute.  The  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  45 
minutes.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
weighs  65  grains  per  yard  and  the  pro- 
duction is  800  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours. 

THE  SLIVER 

at  the  cards  should  be  sized  at  least 
once  a  week  to  see  how  it  is  compar- 
ing with  previous  sizings.  The  sliver 
is  next  put  through  three  processes 
of  drawing  frames,  which  may  have 
either  metallic  or  leather-covered  top 
rolls.  If  metallic  rolls  are  used,  keep 
them  clean,  because  if  dirt  and  waste 
collect  in  the  flutes  of  either  the  top 
or  bottom  rolls,  cut  roving  is  almost 
sure  to  result.  Keep  top  and  bottom 
rolls  well  oiled.  If  top  rolls  are  not 
kept  oiled  and  are  allowed  to  become 
dry,  bad  work  is  sure  to  result.  Also 
see  that  the  calender  rolls  have 
enough  pressure  on  them  to  cause 
them  to  condense  the  sliver  properly. 
Look  out  to  see  that  the  trumpets 
have  the  right  size  hole  at  the  small 
end.  The  drawing  frame  sliver  should 


be  sized  at  least  three  times  a  day, 
and  if  sized  four  times  it  keeps  the 
work  a  great  deal  evener.  The  sliver 
from  at  least  four  heads  of  each 
frame  is  taken  and  sized  separately 
and  then  averaged;  a  variation  of  not 
more  than  5  grains  either  side  of 
standard  is  allowed;  if  more  than 
this,  the  draft  gear  is  changed. 

THE   DOUBLINGS 

at  the  drawing  for  this  kind  of  work 
are  6  into  1  at  each  process.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roller  is  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  weight  ofjhe 
sliver  Is  70  grains  per  yard.  The  draw- 
ing is  next  put  through  the  slubber' 
and  made  into  .60  hank  roving.  It  is 
not  customary  to  varnish  the  slubber 
top  leather  rolls  for  this  kind  of  work. 
See  that  the  traverse  is  working  prop- 
erly and  that  the  top  rolls  are  in 
perfect  condition  and  set  properly. 
Keep  slubber  as  clear  as  possible  and 
it  will  make  returns  many  times  over 
in  extra  production,  which  is  often  af- 
fected by  dirt,  fly,  etc..  getting  be- 
tween the  gears  and  filling  up  the 
teeth. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING 

is  put  through  two  more  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  being 
made  at  each  as  follows:  First  inter- 
mediate, 2.00,  and  second  intermediate, 
6.00  hank  for  the  warp  yarn  and  5.25 
hank  for  the  fllling  yarn.  Try  to 
keep  the  roving  a  little  on  the  heavy 
side  of  the  standard  and  don't  put 
more  twist  into  roving  than  is  actu- 
ally needed  to  draw  it,  so  that  it  won't 
break  back  at  the  next  process.  Re- 
member that  every  extra  tooth  of 
twist  put  in  cuts  into  the  produc- 
tion to  that  extent.  Keep  the  top 
rolls  in  good  condition  and  change 
them  frequently.  Keep  the  chains 
clean  and  look  out  for  bunches.  Look 
out  for  single  and  double  and 
watch  the  tension  and  the  taper  of 
the  bobbin.  Do  not  let  the  help  fill 
up  the  bobbin  after  the  frame  has 
knocked  off,  but  first  be  sure  that  the 
frame  will  knock  off  at  the  proper 
place.  Keep  frames  well  oiled  and 
don't  run  bare  spindles. 

Another       thing       to       watch       is 
jumping       bobbins;      set     the     gear 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


properly  to  remedy  this.  Re- 
place all  broken  bolsters  as  soon  as 
possible.  After  changing  a  frame 
over,  use  up  all  pieces  irom  it  as  soon 
as  possible.  The  roving  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  spun  on  a  ring  frame,  having 
the  following  particulars  for  30s  yarn: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2|  inches;  diameter 
or  ring,  1%;  twist  per  inch,  26.02,  and 
speed  of  spindle  9,800  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
twisted  into  2-ply  yarn,  spooled,  and 
then  warped,  after  which  it  is  put 
through  the  slasher  and  run  onto  a 
beam  with  the  required  number  of 
ends.  The  roving  for  filling  may  be 
either  mule  or  ring  spun;  if  the  latter, 
use  a  frame  with  a  2% -inch  gauge, 
li-inch  diameter  ring  and  spindle 
speed  of  8,000.  This  yarn  is  then 
twisted  into  2-pIy  26s,  aiter  which  it 
is  conditioned  and  then  is  ready  to  be 
used. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  thion  black  TBC;   20 
.per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 

BROWN. 

Ten  per  cent  thion  brown  R.;  2  per 
cent  thion  violet  black  A.;  1  per  cent 
thion  yellow  G. ;  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  25  per 
cent   salt. 

DARK    GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  thion  green  B.;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

PEARL. 

Four  ounces  thion   violet  black  A.; 
1   per   cent  thion   black  TBC;    1   per 
cent    sodium     sulphide;    %    per    cent 
soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 
DRAB. 

Three  per  cent  thion  green  G.;  3  per 
cent  thion  orange  N.;  6  per  cent  sodi- 
um sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  20 
per  cent  salt. 

NAVY   BLUE. 

Six  per  cent  thion  navy  blue  R. ;  2 
per  cent  thion  blue  B.;  8  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per   cent   salt. 


SLATE. 
One  and  one-quarter  per  cent  thion 
black  TBC;   I14  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide;   2   per  cent   soda  ash;    10  per 
cent  salt. 

RED. 
Twenty  per  cent  thiogene  rubine  O. ; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium. 
BLUE  BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  thion  blue  black  B.;  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 


ONDULE  FABRICS 

Ondule  fabrics  are  characterized  by 
having  one  or  both  series  of  yarns 
warp  or  filling,  drawn  out  of  a  straight 
line,  while  yet  remaining  in  the  same 
relative  positions,  i.  e.,  the  curving  of 
the  yarns  is  not  made  by  certain  yarns 


Fig.   1. 

crossing  over  others  as  in  leno  and 
similar   fabrics. 

They  may  be  placed  in  the  novelty 
class.  As  such,  the  production  is  lim- 
ited in  quantity  in  cotton  goods  by 
several  factors,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned:  First,  costly  loom  attach- 
ments have  to  be  applied  in  order  to 
weave  them  to  the  best  advantage; 
second,  the  demand  is  small  and  un- 
certain. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  the  effect  formed  in 
warp  ondules,  in  which  the  filling  re- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


693 


mains  in  straiglit  lines,  as  in  any  or- 
dinary fabric.  The  warp  forms  the 
undulations. 

This  type  has  not  been  developed  to 
any  extent  in  cotton  goods  on  account 
of  the  reasons  mentioned,  and  for  an- 
other reason.  Some  of  the  end& 
curve  considerably  more  than  others, 
necessitating  the  use  of  several  warp 
beams  in  order  to  have  the  ends  at 
such  a  tension  that  some  will  not  be 
slack  in  the  shed,  while  others  are 
tight.  The  sample  in  question,  although 
containing  only  two  different  counts 
of  warp  yarns,  one  fine  and  one 
coarse,  required  five  warps. 

It  will  be  understood  readily  that  a 
greater  length  of  warp  will  be  re- 
quired for  a  curved  end  than  for  a 
straight  end  in  a  given  length  of 
cloth. 

The  white  warp  yarn  in  Fig.  1  is 
cotton. 

"^Tien   woven   in   only  one   color   or 


one  count  of  warp  the  stripe  effect  is 
very  faint. 

The  ondule  principle  of  construc- 
tion is  not  of  recent  origin,  similar 
goods  having  been  made  to  some  ex- 
tent in  the  early  part  of  the  19th  cen- 
tury. 

Filling  ondules  are  of  more  recent 
origin  than  warp  ondules,  and  may  be 
made  much  cheaper,  one  warp  only  be- 
ing required.  Fig.  2  illustrates  the  ef- 
fect of  a  good  filling  ondule,  in  which 
the  filling  yarns  form  curved  or  wavy 
effects,  the  warp  yarns  remaining 
parallel  to  each  other.  The  filling  is 
considerably  coarser  than  the  warp, 
which  accentuates  the   desired  effect. 

Fabrics  like  Figs.  1  and  2,  or  of 
combinations  of  these  two  effects,  may 
be  made  with  similar  loom  attach- 
ments or  devices.  The  attachment 
generally  used  consists  of  a  suitable 
mechanism,  varying  in  detail  with  dif- 
ferent makers,  for  imparting  to     the 


reed,  which  is  very  deep,  an  up-and- 
down  movement,  so  as  to  bring  a  dif 
ferent  part  of  it  to  the  fell  of  the 
cloth  at  each  pick. 

The  reeds  used  are  of  special  con 
struction.  In  those  used  for  warp  on- 
dules the  dents  are  arranged  some- 
what like  Fig.  3. 


:a  3 


The  top,  bottom  and  face  of  the 
reeds  are  straight,  as  in  ordiiiavy 
I'eeds, 

For  weaving  filling  ondules  the 
same  device  may  be  used  for  actuating 
the  reed.  The  reed  itself  is  made 
after  the  form  shown  in  Fig.  4.  The 
solid  line  indicates  the  top,  and  the 
dotted  line  the  bottom  of  the  reed. 
The  dents  are  equal  distances  apart, 
both  at  the  top  and  bottom.  W^^an 
this  type  of  reed  is  used,  a  false  reed 
is  also  used  as  a  guide  for  the  shuttle, 
as  in  lappet  weaving.  Another  typ3  of 
reed  used  is  made  fast  at  one  end,  and 
in  loose  sections  at  the  other.  1  he^o 
sections  contain,  say,  three  or  four 
dents.  An  engraved  or  grooved  roller 
is  made  to  separate  and  change  the 
positions  of  the  sectional  end  of  the 
reed  as  desired. 

In  addition  to  the  methods  describ- 
ed for  producing  ondule  fabrics  there 


%^4. 


is  a  newer  method  which  has  come 
into  use  in  recent  years  that  is  prob- 
ably much  more  economical  and  pro- 
duces better  results,  at  least  for  those 
fabrics  which  have  the  waves  in  a  fill- 
ing direction.  This  method  of  produc- 
tion is  comparatively  simple,  and  may 
be  described  as  follows:  There  are  two 
sets  of  harnesses,  and  the  warp 
threads  are  drawn  through  both  sets. 


By4 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Only  one  warp  is  required  for  most 
styles  of  effects.  At  the  back  of  the 
loom  is  placed  an  extra  set  of  har- 
nesses, four  or  more  being  employed. 
These  harnesses  are  bound  together 
tightly,  but  instead  of  being  all  level, 
they  are  arranged  at  different  heights 
and  are  all  lifted  or  depressed  to- 
gether. The  warp  threads  are  drawn 
through  the  heddles  in  these  back 
harnesses  and  then  through  the  reg- 
ular  harnesses  at  the  front  of  the 
loom  which  produce  the  weave.  The 
back  harnesses  are  merely  for  the 
purpose   of  placing  tension   upon   the 


^ 

Fig.   5. 

various  warp  threads,  those  which  are 
lifted  the  highest  having  the  greatest 
amount  of  tension,  etc.  The  back  har- 
nesses which  are  bound  together  are 
raised  and  lowered  slowly,  and  the 
length  of  the  wave  determines  the 
kind  or  the  number  of  picks  when  the 
raising  and  lowering  repeats.  Of 
course,  good  yarn  has  to  be  used  in 
making  a  fabric  in  this  method,  but 
if  care  be  used  the  tension  on  the 
various  threads  will  not  be  great 
enough  to  cause  any  large  amount  of 
breakages.  Quite  a  number  of  differ- 
ent styles  of  fabrics  have  been  pro- 
duced by  this  method,  and  highly  de- 
sirable results  secured  at  a  relatively 
low  cost.  The  width  of  the  wave  In 
the  warp  direction  is  determined  by 
the  method  of  drawing-in  the  threads 


on  the  back  harnesses  and  the  length 
of  the  wave  in  the  filling  direction  is 
regulated  by  the  raising  and  lowering 
of  the  harness.  These  back  harnesses 
can  be  operated  from  the  dobby  head, 
inasmuch  as  such  fabrics  are  usually 
made  upon  the  ordinary  dobby  loom. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  a  cotton  fabric  in- 
tended to  imitate  the  high-class  fill- 
ing ondules.  To  obtain  this  effect  two 
leno  easers  or  slackeners  have  been 
used  instead  of  the  reed  motion.  There 
are  30  ends  in  each  pattern,  15  of 
which  were  placed  over  the  first  and 
15  over  the  second  easer.  The  easerr 
were  then  actuated  so  that  the  yarn 
over  one  of  them  wove  slack  for  eight 
picks,  while  the  yarn  over  the  other 
was  held  tight,  then  vice  versa  for 
eight  picks.  The  selvage  ends  were 
placed  over  the  regular  whip  roll.  Two 
warp  beams  were  used,  although  one 
would  perhaps  have  answered  better. 
This  is  a  simple  method  of  obtaining 
the  waves,  but  the  effect  obtained  is 
not  as  good  as  when  a  special  reed  is 
used;  nor  can  it  be  depended  on,  not 
being  a  positive  motion.  The  easers 
have  to  be  adjusted  to  a  nicety  and 
kept  in  that  condition  or  each  alter- 
nate section  will  appear  more  prom- 
inent  than  the  others. 

Fabrics  showing  a  much  better  ef- 
fect than  that  shown  in  Fig.  5  may  be 
produced  by  the  yarn  easing  method. 

The  construction  data  for  the  sam- 
ple is  as  follows: 

Ends  per  inch,  48;  picks  per  inch, 
48;  width,  27  inches;  warp  yarn,  50s 
cotton,  combed  American;  filling  yarn, 
2-40s  cotton,  Sea  Island,  mercerized; 
696  ends  on  number  1  beam — this  in- 
cludes 48  for  selvages;  648  ends  on 
number  2  beam,  total,  1,344  ends; 
weight,  8  yards  per  pound;  reed,  1  end 
in  each  dent;  the  weave  is  plain  on  4 
harnesses.  The  attachments  can  be 
applied  to  and  these  goods  made  on 
any    ordinary   dobby   loom. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

There  are  a  great  many  different 
styles  of  ondules,  and  these  com- 
prise many  different  counts  of  yarn 
according  to  the  grade  and  quality 
of  the  fabric  being  made.    This  class 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


595 


of  fabric  is  made  in  mills  of  the  third 
division,  as  given  in  a  previous  article, 
or  at  least  those  plants  whose  equip- 
ment of  machinery  includes  combers. 
The  fabric  that  has  been  selected  out 
of  this  class  of  goods  is  made  up  as 
follows:  For  the  warp,  50s  yarn  is 
used  and  an  American  cotton,  general- 
ly tne  kind  called  peeler,  having 
a  staple  of  11,4  to  1  5-16  inches, 
being  used  and  for  this  fabric  is 
combed.  For  the  filling  yarn  a  Sea 
Island  cotton  of  l^/^  inches  is  used. 
This  is  also  a  combed  yarn,  the  count 
of  which  is  2-40s.  For  this  article  we 
will  take  each  yarn  and  treat  it  sep- 
arately,  starting   with   the   mixing. 

MIXING. 
First  take  the  American  yarn.  This 
is  mixed,  as  has  been  previously  stat- 
ed, at  the  mixing  bin;  the  sliver  waste 
from  the  machine  up  to  the  slubber  is 
used.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that 
too  great  an  amount  of  this  is  not  be- 
ing made  at  the  dirierent  machines.  It 
is  impossible  to  avoid  making  this 
waste  altogether,  but  a  large  percent- 
age of  it  may  be  saved  if  watched 
carefully.  This  cotton  is  put  through 
an  opener  and  thr^e  processes  of  pick- 
ing. Keep  the  hoppers  of  the  open- 
ers well  filled,  so  as  to  obtain  as  even 
a  feed  as  possible  at  the  breaker  pick- 
er. The  speed  of  the  beater  at  this 
machine  is  1,050  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. See  that  the  pin  beater  is  set 
properly  to  obtain  the  required  weight 
per  yard  of  cotton  being  fed  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  is  gener- 
ally provided  with  a  two-bladed,  rigid 
type  of  beater,  the  speed  of  which  is 
1,550  revolutions  per  minute  for  this 
class  of  work.  The  total  weight  of 
lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
4  into  1.  The  beater  of  this  picker  is 
like  that  of  the  breaker,  and  its  speed 
is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
total  weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  of 
this  picker  is  37  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  beater,  if  a  rigid,  two- 
bladed  type,  is  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  the  cotton  pass- 
ing through  it  about  42  beats  or  blows 


per  inch.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  a  12 1/^- 
ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one-half  a 
pound  is  allowed  either  side  of  stand- 
ard; laps  over  or  under  this  weight 
are  run  through  tlie  finisher  again.  At 
the  finisher  picker  the  cut  waste  from 
the  fly  frames  is  mixed  in  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three 
laps  of  raw  stock.  Be  careful  not  to 
use  too  much  cut  waste,  as  it  is  apt 
to  cause  the  laps  to  kick;  also  be  care- 
lul  to  see  that  the  drafts  of  the  pickers 
are  properly  directed  for  the  same  rea- 
son. At  the  card  the  draft  is  not  less 
than  100,  a  good  draft  being  120.  The 
speed  of  the  cylinder  is  160  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  licker-in,  300  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  and  the  top  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
34  minutes. 

DOFFER  AND  CYLINDER. 

The  doffer  should  be  as  large  as 
possible  and  clothed  with  a  No.  35s 
wire  fillet,  as  should  the  top  flats;  the 
cylinder  is  clothed  with  No.  34  wire 
fillet,  the  equivalent  English  count 
being  120s  for  doffer  and  110s  for  cly- 
inder.  Keep  this  wire  sharp  at  all 
times,  as  dull  wire  is  apt  to  cause 
kinked  yarn.  Grind  at  least  once  a 
month  and  reset  all  points  after  grind- 
ing. It  is  a  good  plan,  although  one 
not  generally  used,  to  brush  out  cyl- 
inder and  doffer  after  grinding  and 
before  setting  up.  See  that  the  grind- 
ing brackets  for  the  top  flats  are  set 
so  as  to  grind  the  flats  evenly  across 
their  face,  when  in  their  working  po- 
sition.    This  is 

A  GREAT  FAULT 
with  most  of  the  grinding  devices  and 
should  be  carefully  looked  Into.  See 
that  the  doffer  stripping  comb  Is  set 
to  clean  the  doffer  of  the  web  prop- 
erly. Strip  cards  three  times  a  day  and 
keep  front  free  from  dirt  and  fly.  The 
total  production  for  a  week  of  60 
hours,  allowing  10  per  cent  time  for 
stoppages,  etc.,  is  550  pounds,  and  the 
sliver  weighs  45  grains  per  yard.  The 
sliver  is  then  combed. 

BEFORE   BEING  COMBED 
it  has  to  be  run  through  several  dif- 
ferent processes.    The  order  of  these, 
as   well  as   the  machines  themselves. 


596 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


differs,  but  it  is  most  general  to  have 
the  machines  as  follows,  especially  for 
this  class  of  work:  Sliver  lap  ma- 
chine, at  which  the  doublings  for  an 
8i-inch  lap  are  14  into  1,  the  draft  of 
this  machine  being  small,  less  than  2; 
the  weight  per  yard  is  285  grains;  for 
larger  width  laps  the  doublings  and 
weight  per  yard  may  be  found  by  pro- 
portion; this  is  also  true  at  the  rib- 
bon lap  machine.  At  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  the  doubling  is  6  into  1,  and 
the  weight  of  the  lap  is  265  grains  per 
yard.  These  laps  are  put  up 
AT  THE  COMBER 
and  doubled  according  to  the  number 
of  heads,  6  or  8  being  generally  used, 
a  6-head  comber  generally  using  an 
8|-inch  lap  and  an  8-head  comber  a 
IQi/^-inch  lap.  These  particulars  are 
given  for  the  Heilmann  combers  and 
not  the  later  foreign  makes,  which 
have  been  tried  with  varying  success 
the  last  four  or  five  years.  For  this 
stock  take  out  15  per  cent  waste  and 
set  time  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  speed  should  be  about  95  nips  per 
minute.  Keep  all  the  leather  top  rolls 
of  sliver  and  ribbon  lap  machines  as 
well  as  those  of  the  draw  box  and 
detaching  rolls  of  the  comber  in  per- 
fect condition  and  well  varnished.  It. 
is  a  good  plan  to  varnish  the  leather- 
covered  detaching  rolls  once  a  week. 
A  little  trouble  in  this  direction  is  well 
repaid.  Look  out  to  keep  the  per- 
centage of 

WASTE 
at  the  different  machines  uniform. 

If  two  or  more  ends  break  down  on 
the  table,  break  end  running  into  the 
can,  and  before  piecing  up  again,  see 
that  all  the  ends  are  running.  Comb- 
ers should  be  scoured  at  least  once 
a  year,  when  they  should  be  taken 
down  and  all  parts  reset  and  timed. 
Keep  table  smooth  and  polished  and 
do  not  touch  with  the  hands  those 
parts  over  which  the  combed  sliver  is 
running.  The  weight  per  yard  of  the 
combed  sliver  is  40  grains.  This  sliv- 
er is  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  being  doubled  6  into  1  at 
each  process.  Leather-covered  top 
rolls  are  generally  used  for  this  class 
of  stock  and  they  should  be  looked 
out  for  to  see  that  they  are  well  oil- 


ed and  varnished  and  in  perfect  con- 
dition. See  that  all  stop-motions  are 
in  working  order  so  that  single  and 
double  may  be  prevented  as  far  as 
possible.  The  weight  of  the  drawing  is 
70  grains  per  yard.  This  is  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .50  hank 
roving,  after  which  it  is  run  through 
three  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  being  as  fol- 
lows: First,  1;  second,  3,  and  jack,  10 
hank.  Watch  the  leather  rolls,  also  the 
shape  and  lay  of  the  roving  en  the 
bobbins.  Mark  ail  roving  small  and  dis- 
tinctly near  bobbins,  and  do  not  al- 
low pieces  to  accumulate.  This  rov- 
ing is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  50s  on  a  frame 
having  a  gauge  of  2%  inches;  uiameter 
of  ring,  1^  inches;  length  of  trav- 
erse, 6  inches,  and  spindle  speed  of 
10,000  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
yarn  is  then  spooled  and  warped,  after 
which  it  is  put  through  the  slasher, 
where,  in  addition  to  being  slashed, 
the  required  number  of  ends  are  run 
onto  one  beam,  and  then  it  is  ready 
for  the  weave  room. 

The   Sea   Island   cotton  for 

THE  FILLING  YARN 
is  put  through  either  one  or  two  proc- 
esses of  picking,  generally  two.  The 
speed  of  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type  of 
beater  at  the  breaker  is  1,350  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  total  weight 
of  lap  is  30  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1  at 
the  finisher  picker.  The  speed  of  the 
two-bladed,  rigid  type  is  1,250  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  or  about  29  blows 
or  beats  per  inch  of  cotton  passing 
through.  The  total  weight  of  this  lap 
is  28  pounds  or  a  9i/^-ounce  lap.  At 
the  card  the  draft  should  not  be  less 
than  120,  and  speed  of  the  licker-in, 
275  revolutions  per  minute.  The  top 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  35  minutes.  The  production  is 
300  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours,  and 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  40  grains  per 
yard. 

THE  SETTINGS 
for  the  card  should  be  somewhat  clos- 
er than   when   carding  peeler  cotton; 
for  example,  the  doffer  should  be  set 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


597 


to  the  cylinder  with  a  5  instead  of  a 
7  gauge,  and  the  flats  should  be  set 
with  a  10  instead  of  a  12  gauge,  which 
is  used  to  set  peeler  cotton.  The  oth- 
er particulars  given  above  may  be  also 
used  with  Sea  Island  cotton.  This  sliv- 
er is  next  put  through  the  same  ma- 
chines as  given  above  for  combing. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  lap  machine 
is  240  grains  per  yard  and  the  ribbon 
lap  220  grains  per  yard.  The  settings 
at  the  comber  should  be  closer  than 
those  used  on  peeler  cotton  and  the 
percentage  of  waste  taken  out  should 
be  20  per  cent.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  is  35  grains  per  yard. 

This  sliver  is  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING, 
being  doubled  6  into  1.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  should  be  350  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  60  grains  per  yard.  It  is  im- 
portant that  extra  care  be  taken  with 
the  top  rolls,  "stop-motions,  etc.,  When 
running  this  kind  of  stock,  otherwise 
the  particulars  given  with  peeler  cot- 
ton may  be  followed.  The  leather  top 
rolls  of  the  slubber  are  varnished  for 
this  stock  and  it  is  better  to  use  rolls 
of  a  little  larger  diameter  than  those 
used  for  peeler  cotton.  The  hank  rov- 
ing made  at  the  slubber  is  .65  which 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  made  at 
each  process  being  as  follows:  First 
intermediate,  2.25;  and  second,  8  hank. 
Use  a  finer  grain  leather  for  the  roll 
covering  than  that  used  for  peeler  cot- 
ton and  look  out  for  all  the  particulars 
given  above,  except  that  extra  care 
should  be  given  to  the  Sea  Island 
stock.  This  roving  is  taken  to  the 
mule  room  and  spun  into  40s  yam, 
after  which  it  is  generally  mercerized 
under  tension  and  twisted  into  two- 
ply  40s,  when  it  is  ready  to  be  woven. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

LIGHT   SKY  BLUE. 
Two  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  FF. ; 
20  per  oent  Glauber's;  after-treat  with 
%  per  cent  sulphate  copper. 

LIGHT    PEA    GREEN. 
One-quarter   per   cent   diamine    sky 
blue  FF.;    %  per  cent   diamine  fast 


yellow  FF.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  after-treat  with  1 
per  cent  sulphate  copper. 

PiiARL. 
Two   ounces   diamine   brilliant  blue 
G. ;    15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;   after- 
treat  with  1/^  per  cent  sulphate  of  cop- 
per. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  Erika  pink;  10  per 
cent  Glauber's;    1   per  cent  sal   soda. 

CREAM. 
One-thirty-second      ounce      diamine 
fast  yellow  B.;    l-64th   ounce   diamine 
catechine  3  G. ;  10  per  cent  Glauber's; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  brown  M.; 
1  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3  G. ;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda;  after-treat  with  1  per  cent 
chrome. 

GREEN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  green  G. ;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 

Two  ounces  diamine  dark  blue  B. ; 
l-16th  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B.; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda;  after-treat  with  Yz  per  cent 
chrome  and  i^  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

LIGHT   SNUFF  BROWN. 

Six  ounces  diamine  catechine  3  G.; 
6  ounces  diamine  catechine  B.;  after- 
treat  with  Yz  per  cent  chrome  and  ^ 
per  cent  sulphate  of  copper. 

SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  BH.;  2 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda; 
after-treat  with  Y2  Per  cent  chrome;  % 
per  cent  sulphate  of  copper. 

UMBRELLA  CLOTHS 

The  name  given  to  these  fabrics  in- 
dicates the  use  to  which  they  are 
subjected.  It  stands  for  cloths  of 
widely  different  qualities,  materials 
and  weaves.  The  weaves,  with  the  ex- 
ception   of   those    used   for   umbrella 


598 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ginghams,  are  of  small  repeating 
types,  as  plain,  three-end  twill,  and 
five  and  six  end  twills  of  four  inter- 
lacings  in  a  repeat. 

Being  subjected  to  extremes  of 
weather,  the  constructions  of  the 
cloths   are    necessarily    good. 

All-cotton  umbrella  cloths  are  usu- 
ally woven  white,  then  piece  dyed  in 
solid  colors.  For  cotton  warp  and 
worsted  filling  goods  the  warp  yarn 
is  usually  dyed  before  being  woven. 
This  is  especially  the  case  in  colors 
other  than  black.  It  is  much  harder 
to  get  a  fast  color,  one  of  the  essen- 
tial features  of  a  good  umbrella  cloth, 
on  union  piece-dyed  goods  than  on 
yarn-dyed  goods.  Black  is  the  princi- 
pal color  used. 

IN  THE  BETTER  GRADES 
of  umbrella  cloths  it  is  common  to  find 
silk  or  wool  in  combination  with  cot- 
ton. These  materials  are  sometimes 
combined  in  the  same  yarn,  being 
mixed  before  spun.  In  other  cases 
the  yarns  on  a  beam  are  all  of 
one  material,  and  yarns  of  different 
materials,  from  separate  beams,  are 
used  in  one   fabric. 

The  analysis  of  a  good  grade  of  um- 
brella cloth  shows  it  to  have  been 
made  of  silk  and  cotton,  the  selvages 
being  of  silk  and  the  body  of  the 
warp  arranged  two  ends  of  cotton  and 
one  end  of  silk  alternately.  The  fill- 
ing is  cotton.  This  is  a  so-called  silk 
umbrella  cloth. 

A  good  cotton  umbrella  fabric  with 
a  twill  weave  is  constructed  as  fol- 
lows: Ends  per  inch,  84;  picks  per 
inch,  112;  width  in  reed,  28%  inches; 
width  of  cloth,  27  inches;  ends  in 
warp,  2,312;  reed,  2  ends  per  dent; 
warp  60s  combed  American  cotton 
filling,    40s   combed   Egyptian    cotton; 

w^ave,    — ? .'   twill.     Plain  selvages. 

The  cloth  was  woven  on  12  harnesses, 
2  for  selvages  and  10  for  ground. 

One  of  the  most  essential  features 
of  a  good  umbrella  cloth  is  a  good  sel- 
vage, as  upon  such  depends  not  only 
the  appearance  of  the  cloth,  but  its 
utility.  A  cloth  between  two  ribs  of 
an  umbrella  would  be  worthless  if  it 
contained  a  broken  selvage. 

We  will  consider  a  plain  weave  um- 
lirella   cloth,   containing  a   good   sel- 


vage, where  2  picks  work  as  one  and 
2  picks  are  inserted  in  each  shed.  The 
ground  is  reeded  2  ends  in  each  dent 
and  the  selvages  4  ends  per  dent. 

The  construction  of  this  fabric  is  96 
ends  per  inch  of  60s  warp  yarn:  104 
picks  per  inch  of  56s  filling;  American 
warp  and  Egyptian  filling,  combed 
stock. 

An  ordinary  single  box  dobby  loom 
is  generally  used  when  making  these 
goods,  the  large  number  of  ends  pei 
inch  necessitating  a  greater  number 
of  harnesses  than  are  usually  run  on 
cam  looms. 

Care  has  to  be  exercised,  when 
weaving,  to  make  the  goods  as  near 
perfect  as  possible,  because  defects 
made  in  the  loom  have  to  be  remedied 
afterward,  or  the  goods  have  to  be 
sold  as  seconds. 

FINISHING. 

On  account  of  the  combinations  oi 
materials  found  in  mixed  umbrella 
fabrics,  the  finishing  and  dyeing  proc- 
esses are  of  great  importance  and 
have  to  be  done  with  care  in  order 
that  each  material  will  look  the  same 
when  finished  and  retain  its  color 
under  severe  usage.  Especial  care  has 
to  be  taken  with  silk  selvage  goods, 
because,  if  the  selvages  are  damaged, 
the  goods  have  to  be  sold  for  other 
purposes,  with  a  consequent  loss  in 
price. 

Cotton  umbrella  cloths  are  singed  or 
sheared,  crabbed  and  steamed.  If  they 
contain  silk  selvages,  the  latter  are 
moistened  slightly  just  before  they 
reach  the  singe  plates  or  flames. 

When  the  goods  are  required  to  be 
sheared,  they  are  first  thoroughly  burl 
ed,  all  knots  and  other  uneven  im- 
perfections being  removed  so  that  the 
cloth  will  present  an  even  surface, 
free  from  holes,  after  shearing.  When 
steaming  and  drying  the  goods,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  them  started  and 
kept  straight,  so  that  the  warp  yarns 
may  be  straight  and  the  width  uniform 
throughout   the  piece. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  goods  considered  in  this  article 
are  made  in  the  same  kind  of  mill  and 
from  the  same  grade  of  yams  as  oo- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAHV 


599 


dule  fabrics,  which  were  dealt  with 
in  the  previous  article.  The  carding 
and  spinning  data  of  the  one  will 
therefore  apply  equally  well  to  the 
other,  and  need  not  be  repeated  here. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

FAST  BLACK. 

Dyed  on  the  jig  machine.  First  bath, 
100  gallons;  8  pounds  immedial  black 
NN.;  10  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  3 
pounds  soda  ash;  25  pounds  common 
salt;  run  the  pieces  through  for  one 
hour,  take  off  to  a  washing  machine, 
and  give  a  good  rinsing  with  water; 
after-treat  with  3  per  cent  chrome;  3 
per  cent  acetic  acid  for  30  minutes  at 
180  degrees  P.;  soap  with  10  pounds 
soap;  2  pounds  olive  oil;  4  pounds  sal 
soda;  50  gallons  water  at  180  degrees 
F.,  and  rinse.  Boil  the  soap,  olive  oil 
and  sal  soda  together  for  one  hour  be- 
fore using.  For  subsequent  lots  2  per 
cent  soda  ash,  7  per  cent  immedial 
black  NN.;  8  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide, 6  per  cent  common  salt  will  be 
sufficient  for   the    dyeing   process. 

A  SULPHUR  BLACK 

is  the  fastest  to  light,  washing  and 
general  wear.  Another  black  can  be 
dyed  with  sulphur  black  topped  with 
logwood:  Six  per  cent  immedial  black 
NG.;  10  per  cent  sulphide  soda;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt;  rinse 
well,  and  alter-treat  with  2  per  cent 
chrome;  rinse  and  dye  with  5  per  cent 
extract  logwood;  rinse  and  soap  at 
150  degrees  P.;  y^  ounce  soap  to  1  gal- 
lon water. 

And  again  a  good  black  can  be  dyed 
with  a  one-dip  black  fixed  with  chrome 
which  is  very  fast  to  light  and  wash- 
ing, but  not  so  fast  as  sulphur  blacki 

A  ONE-DIP  BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  diamine  fast  black  P.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt;  dye  at  the  boil  for  one 
hour;  rinse  and  after-treat  with  2  ifer 
cent  chrome;  2  per  cent  sulphate  cop- 
per at  175  degrees  P.;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid;  rinse  well  and  soap  with  weak 
soap  solution  at  loO  degrees  F. 


HUCKABACK  TOWELS 

Huckaback,  or  buck,  is  a  name  given 
to  a  certain  type  of  weave  which  is 
extensively  utilized  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  towels,  being  excellently  adapt- 
ed for  that  purpose. 

Two  of  the  principal  features  desir- 
ed in  a  towel  are,  first,  strength;  sec- 
ond, a  readiness   to  absorb   moisture. 

An  examination  of  huckaback,  Figs. 
1  and  2,  will  show  that  it  is  compos 
ed  for  the  greater  part  of  plain  weave; 
this  gives  strength  to  the  fabric. 

The  moisture-absorbing  qualities  of 
a  buck  towel  are  aided  by  the  long 
floats  of  yarn  which  appear  regularly, 
as  on  ends  and  picks  2,  4,  7  and  9  of 
Fig.  2,  as  well  as  in  the  light  twist  or 
small  number  of  turns  per  inch  put  in 
the  yarns.  The  softer  twisted  the 
yarns,  the  better  they  are  adapted  for 
toweling. 

The  selvage  ends,  which  are  requir 
ed  to  bear  the  greatest  amount  of 
friction  of  any  of  the  yarns  in  the 
loom,  are  usually  of  2-ply  yarns, 
whereas  the  yarns  in  the  body  of  the 
cloth  are  single,  twisted  not  any  hard- 
er than  is  necessary  to  enable  them 
to  weave  well. 

Huckaback  toweling  is  sold  to  the 
consumers  in  various  ways,  by  piece. 


■Danananau 

DDDnaBDBDB 

■GHDHQaaaa 
DHaaajaaaa 
ananwaDDDC 
aaaacauaaa 


Fig.  1. 


aaaoaaaaaa 
aoaaaaaaaa 
aaaoDaaaaa 
aoaDaaaaaa 
aoaGaDaoan 
aaaaaaaoaa 
□aoaoaDaaa 
DaaaoaDaca 
anaaaaLDDQ 
anaDaDDDag 
DagaDaDaaa 
aacaaaaaoB 

Fisr.  3. 


aDBDBLiaaaD 
aDDDDaaaDB 
aaaaaaaaaa 
DDDOoaaaDB 
■OBDBDBaaa 
DBDaaaaaDa 
BOaaaaDOOO 
DBnaaBoaaB 

aDBDBDDnDa 
OBOaDBGaCB 

Fig.  2. 

aaaDBDBDBD 

DaaDOBoaaa 
DaaDDBDaaB 
aaaaaDBDaa 
aaDaaaaaai 
BDaaaaaaaa 
a-janaoDDDg 
oaDaaaaaai 

Fig.  4. 


yard  and  towel.  The  cloth  sold  by  the 
piece  or  yard  is  generally  white.  Com- 
pleted towels,  which  are  usually  hem- 
med, hemstitched  or  fringed,  vary  ill 
size  from  about  17  by  32,  to  25  by  45 
inches  for  general  use.  A  favorite  size 
for  barbers'  use  is  14  by  26  inches. 
These  are  all  white,  or  are  white  in 
the  body  of  the  towel  and  colored  on 


600 


A  COTTON  J^ABHICS  GLOSSARY 


the  borders,  usually  with  light  red  or 
blue. 

Towel  borders  usually  consist  of  al 
ternate   stripes   of   colored   and   white 
filling,  varying  relatively  in  size  as  de- 
sired, and  of  weaves  other  than  those 
of  the  huckaback  type. 

An  analysis  of  a  huckaback  towel 
shows  the  following  construction  data: 
Ends  per  inch,  50;  picks  per  inch,  44; 
width  of  cloth,  11^2  inches;  warp 
yarn,  14s;  filling  yarn,  10s;  ends  in 
warp,  854  of  14s  for  the  body  of  the 
cloth,  40,  i.  e.,  20  on  each  side,  of  2- 
28s  for  selvages;  23  reed,  2  ends  of  14s 
per  dent;  selvages,  each  20  ends, 
drawn  as  10  in  5  dents;  the  weave  is 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  drawing-in 
draft  for  reproduction  on  a  dobby 
loom  is  straight  with  Fig.  1  as  a  chain 
draft.  Weave  Fig.  3  differs  from  the 
chain  draft  Fig.  1  in  having  two  picks 
in  a  shed. 

To  enable  a  greater  length  of  cloth 
to  be  woven  in  a  short  time,  in  fact,  in 
one-half  the  running  time  ordinarily 
required,  two  strands  of  filling  are 
wound  together  as  one  on  a  bobbin 
and  run  off  together  in  the  loom.  In 
reality,  although  the  cloth  contains  44 
picks  per  inch,  the  shuttle  traverses 
the  loom  lay  only  22  times  to  weave 
one  inch  of  cloth. 

Another  method  of  inserting  two 
picks  in  a  shed  at  once  is  by  the  use 
of  a  shuttle  containing  two  bobbins  of 
filling.  Objections  to  this  method  are 
that  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  shuttle 
of  a  greater  length  than  can  be  run 
on  an  ordinary  loom,  and  extra  waste 
is  made  if  the  filling  from  both  bob- 
bins does  not  end  at  the  same  time. 

Huckaback  towels  are  usually  made 
of  linen,  cotton,  or  a  combination  of 
linen  and  cotton.  A  cloth  under  con- 
sideration of  the  latter  type,  of  a  good 
quality,  is  18  inches  wide  and  contains 
58  ends  and  37  picks  per  inch  finished. 
The  yarns  in  both  warp  and  filling, 
with  the  exception  of  the  selvage  ends, 
are  single.  There  are  8  ends  of  2 -ply 
yarn  for  each  selvage. 

Fig.  4  is  the  weave  used  for  this 
cloth;  12  harnesses  are  required,  10 
for  ground  and  2   for  selvages. 

For  plain  white  huckaback  toweling 
an  ordinary  dobby  loom   is   used,  one 


warp  beam  and  one  shuttle  only  beiflg 
required.  Coarse  cloth  is  usually  wo- 
ven on  4  harnesses,  with  a  cross  draw. 
When  colored  borders  are  required 
a  dobby  box  loom  containing  a  re- 
peater or  multiplier  motion  is  the  best 
to  use.  A  fringe  motion  is  added  to 
this  when  both  borders  and  fringe  are 
required.  This  motion  automatically 
pulls  the  cloth  forward  several  inches 
between  each  two  towels,  the  distance 
being  regulated  as  desired. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Huckaback  towels  are  made  up  of 
various  counts  of  yarns  which  differ 
according  to  the  mills  in  which  they 
are  made,  and  also  several  grades  may 
be  made  in  a  single  mill,  but  the  di- 
vision of  mills  that  they  are  made  in 
is  the  second.  The  fabric  under  de- 
scription is  made  up  of  14s  warp  yam 
and  10s  filling;  the  selvage  yarns  are 
2-28S. 

THESE   YARNS 

are  all  made  up  of  American  cotton, 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns  being  made 
from  a  1  1-16-inch  staple  and  the  sel- 
vage yarn  of  1% -staple  cotton.  The 
cotton  for  these  mixings  is  mixed  by 
machine,  large  mixings  being  made. 
They  are  put  through  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking.  Only 
those  openers  that  have  the  best 
means  of  cleaning  the  pin  beater 
should  be  used,  as  there  are  several 
on  the  market  which  do  not  clean  the 
pins  properly.  Especially  is  this  the 
case  when  running  sliver  waste,  the 
waste  becoming  wound  around  the 
beater,  which  will  be  seen  to  be  a 
great  detriment. 

THE   BEATERS 

of  all  three  of  the  pickers  are  gener- 
ally of  the  two-bladed,  rigid  type  and 
the  particulars  given  below  will  be  ap- 
plied to  them.  The  speed  of  the  breaker 
picker  beater  for  this  stock  is  1,550 
revolutions  per  minute  and  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the  in- 
termediate picker  and  pass  to  the  beat- 
er, the  speed  of  which  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute.     The  total   weight 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


601 


of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine 
is  371^  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  From 
the  intermediate  picker  the  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  The  speed  of 
this  beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  laps 
at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  39  pounds 
or  a  14%-ounce  lap.  The  laps  are  al- 
lowed a  variation  of  one-half  a  pound 
either  side  of  the  standard  weight. 
When  more  than  this,  they  are  put  up 
at  the  back  and  run  through  the 
picker  again. 

WATCH  THE  EVENER 
motion  to  see  that  it  is  working  prop- 
erly. The  cotton  at  the  finisher  pick- 
er receives  42  blows  or  beats  per  inch 
fed.  This  cotton  is  generally  a  very 
dirty  cotton  and  care  should  be  taken 
to  get  all  the  dirt  out  possible,  so  that 
the  cards  will  not  have  to  do  picker 
work.  The  laps  from  the  picker  are 
put  up  at  the  card,  the  draft  of  which 
is  generally  not  more  than  95.  The 
speed  of  the  licker-in  is  generally  300 
revolutions  per  minute  and  the  top 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes.  The  settings  of  the 
card  should  be  the  same  as  those  giv- 
en in  the  article  on   "Indigo  Prints." 

THE  STRIPPING 
should  be  done  three  times  a  day  and 
cards,  especially  the  fronts,  should  be 
kept  clean.  The  cards  should  be 
ground  at  least  once  a  month,  when 
the  grinding  rolls  should  be  allowed 
to  stay  on  half  a  day.  Always  grind 
lightly,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have 
traverse  grinding  rolls  send  the  grind- 
ing disk  across  the  surface  of  the  wire 
fillet  as  quickly  as  possible  and  not  in 
the  slow  manner  in  which  it  is  gener- 
ally done.  Look  out  for  the  emery  on 
the  grinding  disk  to  see  that  it  does 
not  become  greasy.  The  emery  should 
be  cleaned  frequently  with  some  fluid 
that  will  remove  the  grease.  The 
W^EIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
should  be  65  grains  per  yard  and  the 
production  for  a  week  of  60  hours  750 
pounds.  As  these  yarns  are  carded 
they  are  put  up  at  the  drawing  frame 
and  run  through  three  processes,  the 
doublings  being  6  into  1  at  each  proc- 
ess.     The     drawing    frames    may   be 


equipped  with  metallic  or  leather  top 
rolls.  If  the  latter  are  used,  keep  the 
flutes  clean;  and  if  the  former,  see 
that  the  top  rolls  are  always  well  cov- 
ered and  varnished.  No  matter  which 
top  rolls  are  used,  it  is  important  to 
see  that  the  stop  motions  are  all  in  per- 
fect working  order,  especially  those 
operating  the  spoons,  for  it  is  here  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  is  caused  by 
single  and  double  if  they  are  out  of 
order.    The  speed  of 

THE  FRONT  ROLL 
should  be  about  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  of  the  finisher  should  be  75 
grains.  This  sliver  is  put  up  at  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .60  hank  rov- 
ing. From  the  slubber  it  is  put 
through  one  process  of  fly  frames  for 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns  and  two 
processes  for  the  selvage  yarn.  The 
hank  roving  being  2.25  for  warp  and 
filling  and  1.50  for  selvage  at  the  sec- 
ond intermediate,  the  hank  roving  for 
the  latter  yarn  is  5.50.  At  these 
frames  be  sure  that  the  top  rolls  are 
in  good  condition  and  that  the  traverse 
motion  is  working  properly.  The  top 
rolls  should  be  cleaned  frequently,  at 
least  twice  a  week,  and  new  rolls  put 
in  at  regular  intervals,  these  being 
determined  by  various  conditions, 
which  are  different  in  every  mill. 
Never  run  loose,  fluted,  bruised  or 
uneven  top  rolls.  Watch  to  see  that 
all 

THE  TENDERS 
mark  their  roving  correctly  and  that 
they  do  not  let  single  and  double  go. 
Do  not  allow  pieces  to  collect,  but  use 
them  up  as  fast  as  possible.  Keep 
floor  of  card  room  clean  at  all  times, 
as  nothing  creates  so  poor  an  impres- 
sion on  a  visitor  as  an  untidy  card 
room  floor.  From  the  card  room  the 
roving  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  14s  warp  on  a 
frame  having  a  gauge  of  three  inches) 
diameter  of  ring,  2i  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  7  inches;  twist  per  inch,  17.- 
77,  and  spindle  speed  of  9,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  10s  fllling  yarn 
is  made  on  a  frame  having  a  23-inch 
gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch 
traverse,  10.28  twist  per  inch  and 
spindle  speed  of  6,400  revolutions  per 


602 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


minute.  The  selvage  yarn  is  spun  on 
a  frame  having  2|-lnch  gauge,  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6i^-inch  traverse, 
25.13  twist  per  inch  and  spindle  speed 
of  9,700  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
warp  yarn  is  put  through  a  spooler 
and  warper  and  from  here  put  through 
a  slasher.  The  selvage  is  put  through 
a  spooler  and  then  twisted,  spooled 
again,  and  run  onto  a  selvage  beam 
after  being  put  through  a  slasher. 


IMITATION  GAUZE— Mock  Leno 

These  weaves  are  very  extensively 
used  in  cotton  manufacture. 

The  imitation  of  leno  or  gauze  fab- 
rics can  be  made  extremely  close;  in 
some  cases  the  deception  has  even  im- 
posed on  experienced  buyers. 

These   weaves    are    commonly    used 


■■■nGGaaaaDD 
uaGHGiuacana 
aGaGBGaaanaa 
DGGaaaGGGaaa 
BzaGaGBGacaG 
caGaoaGaGauB 
aaaGDaaaaaDD 
oaGaGaaaaana 
BGaaaaaDaaaa 
GaGaaaDaaaafl 
aDaaaGBDBQBO 


Fig:.  1. 

for  such  fabrics  as  dress  goods,  cur- 
tains, ladies'  aprons,  men's  shirts, 
canvas  cloth,  etc.  These  fabrics  are 
characterized  by  three  or  more  warp 
threads  and  three  or  more  filling  picks 
interlacing  with  each  other  very 
loosely,  while  the  following  warp  and 
filling  threads  form  a  complete  break 
and  so  can  readily  be  kept  apart  for 
small    spaces. 

In  the  warp  these  breaks  are  aug- 
mented by  the  reed  by  leaving  one, 
two,  three  or  more  dents  empty  (if, 
for  example,  we  use  a  plain  six-har- 
ness imitation  gauze  weave,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  1,  ends  one,  two  and  three 
would  be  drawn  in  one  dent,  while 
ends  four,  five  and  six  would  fill  an- 
other dent)  and  by  leaving  one,  two  or 
more  dents  empty  between  the  first 
group  of  three  ends  and  the  second 
group  of  three  ends.  The  number  of 
dents  to  be  left  empty  depends  upon 
the  space  desired  between  each  group 
of  ends. 


Diagram  Fig.  2  shows  the  character 
of  fabric  woven  with  weave  shown  lu 
Fig.   1. 

A  four  and  four,  or  five  and  five 
mock  leno  is  based  on  the  same  prin- 
ciple as  the  three  and  three  described 
above:  in  the  four  and  four  the  ends 
are  reeded  four  in  one  dent,  while  in 


Fig.  2. 

the  five  and  five  the  ends  are  reeded 
five  in  one  dent. 

The  four  and  four  and  the  five  and 
five  end  patterns  produce  a  slightly 
more  open  effect  than  the  three  and 
three   end    pattern. 

The  former  is  also  suitable  for  a  fin- 
er make  of  cloth,  as  the  open  effect 
can  be  made  with  a  larger  number  of 
ends    per   inch. 

In  the  five  and  five  end  or  ten-har- 
ness weave  (see  Fig.  3)  the  second, 
fourth,  seventh  and  ninth  ends  serve 
to  pull  the  picks  together  in  fives  and 
make  a  decided  opening  in  the  cloth 
between  the  fifth  and  sixth  picks;   in 

canaaananB 
aaaaaGCGug 
paGaGBDaaa 
flaaaaDDGDa 

DBGaGBGaGB 

aaaGBcaGaa 
□GGGnaaaaa 

BGBGBGBCaa 

CGGGGBaaaa 

BGflGaaaaaD 

Fig-.  3. 

the  pattern  the  same  thing  takes  place 
with  the  ends — they  are  pulled  togeth 
er  in  fives  by  the  second,  fourth  and 
seventh  and  ninth  picks,  and  if  two 
dents  be  skipped  between  each  group 
of  five  ends  it  will  produce  the  effect 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


In  fabric  shown  in  Fig.  4.  In  addition 
to  plain  gauze  fabrics,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  2,  tliese  weaves  are  used  in  con- 
nection with  plain  woven  tabrics  in 
the  form  of  a  pattern  (see  Fig.  4)  and 
also  in  the  form  of  checlis.  The  fab- 
ric shown  in  Fig.  4  shows  a  series  of 
ends  working  gauze  or  moclc  leno 
througliout  the  entire  pattern,  forming 
a  stripe  through  the  entire  length  of 
the  fabric.  In  the  check  effects  these 
ends  are  made  to  weave  plain  or  other- 
wise as  may  be  desired.  Fig.  5  illus- 
trates a  mock  leno  three  and  three 
check  pattern,  showing  18  ends  working 


gauze  from  18  picks  and  the  next  18 
ends  working  plain  for  18  picks,  these 
two  series  of  ends  alternating  into  a 
plain  weave  at  the  end  of  the  18  picks. 
These  check  pattern  fabrics  in  nearly 
all  instances  are  given  a  wet  finish 
whenever  they  are  woven  with  bleach- 
ed and  dyed  yarn.  A  great  many  of 
these  mock  leno  fabrics  are  made 
with  grey  yarns  and  finished  after 
the  cloth  is  woven,  being  bleached 
and  sold  in  the  white  state  or  piece- 
dyed  as  the  demand  requires.  When- 
ever colors  are  necessary  for  stripes, 
yarns  which  are  fast  to  the  bleaching 
process  are  used,  and  in  this  manner 
it  is  possible  to  make  cloth  some- 
what cheaper  than  in  any  other  meth- 
od. A  good  many  fabrics  have  been 
made  upon  this  principle  where  silk 
Is  used  in  combination  in  the  warp 
and  an  openwork  effect  is  obtained 
which  can  seldom  be  obtained  in  any 
other  way  in  as  reasonable  a  manner. 


By  reason  of  the  fact  that  the  warp 
is  reeded  three  in  one  dent,  skip- 
ping one,  two  or  more  dents  between 
each  three  ends  will  cause  the  plain 
woven  part  of  the  fabric  to  show  more 
or  less  streaky;  that  is,  it  will  show 
each  of  the  three  ends  lying  close  to- 
gether instead  of  being  evenly  distrib- 
uted across  the  fabric.  When  sub- 
jected to  the  wet  finish  these  ends 
will  take  their  proper  places.  When 
making  a  gauze  stripe  fabric,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  4,  the  ends  operating  the  gauze 
weave  are  on  a  separate  beam  because 
of  the  difference  of  take-up  in  warp 
during  weaving. 

Another  method  of  producing  a  mock 
leno  is  to  have  two  ends  appear  so, 
if  they  were  twisted  around  several 
other  ends,  that  is,  not  resting  par- 
allel to  one  another.  This  is  readily 
produced  by  allowing  the  two  ends  to 
come  together  for  two  picks,  then 
gradually  spreading  them  for  six  or 
eight  picks,  then  allowing  them  to 
gradually  come  together  again  for  two 
picks.  These  two  ends  in  the  pattern 
are  of  coarser  counts  than  the  body 
of  warp,  usually  a  three-ply  thread, 
and  are  on  a  separate  beam  from  the 
body  of  the  warp. 

Fig.  6  shows  design  and  reeding  plan 
for  a  fabric  of  the  above  description. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  37 V^  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch  finished,  68;  reed,  1,200; 
take-up  of  warp  (ground  warp)  dur- 
ing weaving,  10  per  cent:  take-up  of 
leno  warp  during  weaving,  20  per  cent. 


DRESSING. 

12   ends 

white. 

8   ends 

blue. 

6   ends 

white. 

4   ends 

blue. 

2  ends 

white. 

2   ends 

blue. 

10  ends 

white. 

S   ends 

blue. 

16   ends 

white. 

1   end 

dark   blue 

mercerized   cotton 

8   ends 

white. 

1   end 

darli  blue 

mercerized   cotton 

16   ends 

white. 

8   ends 

blue. 

10  ends 

white. 

2   ends 

blue. 

2  ends 

white. 

4   ends 

blue. 

6   ends 

white. 

8   ends 

blue. 

134  ends    in    pattern. 


604 


A  COTTON  FABHICS  GLOSSARY 


Ends  in  pattern:  88  ends  white  '  For  the  fabric  under  description  In 
40s;  44  ends  blue  l-40s;  2  ends  dark  this  article  we  will  consider  the  fill- 
blue  3-30s;  total,  134  ends.  ing  yarn  to  be  combed  and  the  warp 

Filling,    70     picks    per     inch     l-50s  yarn  to  be  carded.    The  filling  yarn  is 

bleached  cotton.  made  from  an  American  cotton  of  1  5- 

LOOM  REQUIRED.  16-inch  staple,  while  the  warp  yarn  is 

These  fabrics  are  mostly  woven  with  ,-,r,r,r^— ,-r^-r^-™-,r^r^r^^r^r,^r,™.,™^,^„ 

but  one  color  filling;  conseauently  any  GDaDSQBaBBaBDSDaooaaBeasDfflaBDS'DSDea 

ordmary  harness   loom  would   answer  Dagcaa«cHBaBDscDGGDaasceDaGaDec:s[:3D 

for   weavmg    these  fabrics.     Competi-  DDoaaa»cB«D»Daz3ncc:ecaGaceG&Gsc.5-aD 

,.  J  *       i„  4.V     t  DGGGaHGBGG»G»5aGCGSGeGaDeGaCBGSGeGa 

tion    and    economy    are     factors     that  ■ogGaGBcjBGHGaGBGfGjGa^jgGaGeGaGSGgg 

have  caused  the  discarding  of  the  old  SGaDiBGScGGSGiciGS^sGaGaGiEiGSGinaa 

roller  loom,   using  instead  the   dobby  gDaafflS8BmgGbgGBG«!SGiSSGiGSGyaiaya 

1,^^-r,^^^  »v,«+;^v.  1^^-rr.  DBDBGDGCGGaGCCHGBGSGeGaCaCaGaGaGaGa 

harness    motion   loom.  ■a«aaaGuCGGGGecBGHGeG=?asGaGfflGBGaGea 

„^^,^^^,^^^„  DBGBBaQGGGacGaBGBGaG5GaG3GaGaGaGaaa 

FINISHING.  ■DBafflQBGBBGacacBGBGaGacaGaafflGEasGfflD 

These  fabrics   are   sometimes  given  ,  gggggggg 'ggSSSM"- -^G^^maaGGaaaD 

a   dry   finish,    depending    chiefly   upon         .  gkip«.d«,  .' : • — -^ ' 

the  weave  and  pattern.    In  some  quali-  Fig.  6       <=  ""^  p'-"  « «id3. 
ties  in  which  only  one  color  warp  and             ,          ^      ^       ^^  ^    .,,    .     , 
filling  is  used,  the  fabric  is  bleached,  ^^^^e  out  of   cotton   of   1%-inch,    the 
hot  pressed,  then  made  up  into  rolls  cotton  used  for  both  purposes  bemg  of 
ready  for  shipment.  When  two  or  more  ^  good  grade.    Both  cottons  are  gen- 
colors   are    used,    the    fabric    in   most  ^^^^^  mixed   by  machine,  being  kept 

in  separate  bins,  of  course.     The  mix- 

BnanHnfflnaGaoaDsDBn«aBcBG«nBQBDBCMGBa  ings    should   be   as    large   as    possible. 

igiSi!i!g!S?iBiSi!SEiTi-i»ri=!i»:5  each  batch  being  calculated  to  last  at 

BaiGi5iGiGiGiG|L5^iSi'iGiBi'x*BSi!::i  least  a  week. 

BaaGaGaGaGajSGfiG|Gi^Br:B,,l  ,izS^i_iGiG  a    0.0011    PT.AXT 

neGaGSGaGaGacaDaGez, ^bbb:_-bbb: -bbb  -^    u-uuu   ir'ijArM 

BaaGaGaGaGEaaDaGacBiB_»^B-B--BLBZBGBG 

y^g!i!i!iGiciai!i!i:i'=!i!i'!:*i!B'=?  to  follow   is  to   have  a   batch  of  the 

ysgs_a_gja^aG|_g_SgB-B_i-iigi_B„igB_B  same  stock  always  on  hand  drying  out 

DaGaG|GgGaaaGaGaG^GG-BBB_rgiBi_f„iBi  while  one  is  being  used.    This  insures 

DaG3Ei^ao§G5|GG5GaGiGiLBGBGiGizB^i^i  a   dry   and   fluffy  cotton   being   mixed. 

DaSifiG5GaG5C5zaDaGB_BGizBGiGi-Bzi=B  At   the    mlxiug   bins    the   good    sliver 

Dc"iB|z="iBiz"zBBi^|z|z5^5^1^5z|zaG3  waste   from    all    machines    up    to    the 

DBzizizizi'izBZBzB^a^sz'i^g-lzizBciza  slubber  is  mixed  in.  This  waste  should 

■BZB^i"=iSB"ziSi!i-izl||z|ga|i|izB  be  spread  throughout  the  entire  mix- 

□z"iBizzziBi-~zBBiziziziz5ziziziziza  ing,    and   not,    as    is   sometimes    done; 

"Bzi*BzBzizi*i'iEi^iGi?|?i^5-i-l?^^i  piled  up  in  one  place  and  fed  to  the 

gJBi  BBJ%-BBSSB=Bisz5zSzazizi-5zizi  opener  all  at  once.    The  mixing  is  put 

DEziBSz=ziBi''cnBBizSr^-5z^ziz§-izizB  through  an  opener  and  three  processes 

DBzi'i'izB'icBnBaBcica^i-^-az^KrilB  °f  picking.  Follow  the  rules  that  have 

■■BzzzBBBZzDBBBcSDaSaDBcar^aza^azacan  been  eriven  in  nrevious  articlps  in  rnn- 

Fig_  5.  nection    with    the     opener.      At     the 
breaker  picker  the  beater  used  is  gen- 
cases  is  boiled  off,  then  subjected  to  a  erally  of  a  two-bladed,  so-called  rigid 
light   sizing,   pressed,   and   then   made  type  and  for  both  stocks  makes  1,500 
up  into  rolls.  revolutions  per  minute.     See  that  the 
beater  is  properly  set  to  the  feed  rolls 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars.  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  snd  and  grate  bars  are 

^  I-  a  properly  spaced  so  that  they  will  al- 

The  yarns  of  which  mock  lenos  are  low  all  foreign  matter  to  drop  through, 

composed  are  made  up  in  mills  of  the  Look  out  for  all 
second  division  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.    These    yarns    may    be    either 
combed   or  just  carded,   according   to 
the  grade   of  the  fabric   to  be   made. 


THE  DRAFTS 

to  see  that  they  are  properly  directed 
to  the  best  advantage  to  make  a  good, 


A  COttON  B'ABRICS  GLOSSARY 


605 


elean,  even  lap  that  does  not  split. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of 
the  breaker  picker  is  40  pounds.  At 
the  intermediate  picker  the  speed  of 
the  beater  (two-bladed)  is  1,450  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  and  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  is  37  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap  for  the  1  5-16-inch  stock  and 
a  10-ounce  lap  for  the  li/4-inch  stock. 
These  laps  are  doubled  four  into  one 
at  the  finisher  picker.  On  this  picker 
the  speed  of  the  beater  is  also  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  35 
pounds  for  the  1  5-16-inch  stock  and 
39  pounds  for  the  1^4 -inch  stock,  or  a 
13-ounce  lap  for  the  longer  stock  and 
a  14%-ounce  lap  for  the  shorter  staple. 
The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card  and 
the  draft  of  the  card  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  not  more  than  95.  The  speed 
of  the  licker-in  should  be  about  300 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  top  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
50  minutes.  The  sliver  weighs  65 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production  for 
a  week  of  60  hours  is  750  pounds.  For 
the  filling  yarn  the  draft  of  the  card 
should  not  be  less  than  110.  The  top 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  35  minutes,  the  speed  of  the 
licker-in  being  300  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
55  grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
550  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.  The 
counts  of  the  wire  fillet  used  for  all 
parts  would  be  similar  for  carding 
both  staples  of  cotton  or  110s  for  cyl- 
inder and  120s  for  doffer  and  top  flats. 
Strip  three  times  a  day  and  grind  at 
least  once  a  month.  Always  gauge  the 
setting  points  after  grinding  and  set 
to  high  places.    Use 

THE  SETTINGS 
given  in  a  previous  article  on  "Bed- 
spreads." The  sliver  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawings,  the  doublings  being  6  into 
1,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  350 
revolutions  per  minute  at  each  proc- 
ess. A  good  weight  for  the  sliver  at 
the  different  processes  is  as  follows: 
77  grains  at  front  of  breaker,  76  grains 
at  front  of  middle  and  70  grains  at 
front  of  finisher.  Either  metallic  or 
leather-covered  top  rolls  may  be  used 
on   this   stock.    Either   one   used   will 


give  good  results  if  properly  cared  for. 
If  leather-covered  rolls  are  used,  use 
one  of  the  recipes  given  in  a  previous 
article  and  don't  use  rolls  that  are 
not  in  perfect  condition.  If  the  damage 
is  in  the  covering,  send  it  to  be  recov- 
ered and  always  examine  the  returned 
rolls  to  see  that  they  are  level  and 
have  the  right  grade  of  sliver  cover- 
ing. Look  out  for  all  the  knock-off  mo- 
tions to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect 
working  order;  for  lemember  that 
one  of  the  two  duties  of  a  drawing 
frame  is  to  even  the  sliver,  and  if  the 
knock-off  motions  do  not  work  they 
will  allow  single  to  go  through,  which 
is  a  serious  fault  that  is  not  corrected 
while  passing  through  the  slubber 
where  the  end  is  put  through  single. 
The  drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the 
slubber  and  drawn  into  .60  hank  rov- 
ing. From  here  it  passes  through  two 
processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  inter- 
mediate being  2  for  the  30s,  and  2% 
for  the  40s  yarn;  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate the  hank  roving  is  6  for 
the  30s  and  8.50  for  the  40s  yarn. 
These  rovings  are  then  spun  on  a  ring 
frame  into  30s  and  40s  yarn.  For  30s 
yarn  the  frame,  to  get  best  results, 
should  be  fitted  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2|  inches;  diameter  of  spindle, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  QVz 
inches;  twist  per  inch,  26.02,  and  spin- 
dle speed,  9,800  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. For  40s  yarn  use  a  25-inch  gaug- 
ed frame,  a  1%-inch  diameter  ring, 
6%-inch  traverse,  28.46  twist  per  inch 
and  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarns  are  spooled  and 
twisted,  3  ends  of  30s  being  twisted 
together,  and  then  2  ends  of  the  3-30s 
twisted  with  1  end  of  the  40s  yarn. 
The  yarns  are  then  warped  and 
slashed. 

The  card  sliver  for  the  filling  yarn 
is  generally  put  through  a  sliver  lap, 
ribbon  lap  and  then  a  comber.  At  the 
sliver  lap  the  doublings  are  14  into  1, 
the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  being  280 
grains  per  yard.  These  are  doubled  at 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  6  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  of  this 
machine  is  265  grains  per  yard.  Theso 
laps  are  put  up  at  the    comber    and 


606 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


doubled  according  to  the  number  of 
heads  on  the  comber,  either  six  or 
eight  into  1.  The  particulars  given  for 
the  sliver  and  ribbon  lap  machines  are 
for  an  8|-inch  lap. 

AT   THE  COMBER 

a  percentage  of  16  per  cent  should  be 
taken  out  of  the  lap  being  fed.  The 
settings  should  be  the  same  as  given 
in  a  previous  article  and  this  is  true 
of  the  trimmings.  As  the  combers  are 
not  equipped  with  stop-motions,  single 
and  double  should  be  looked  for,  and 
it  is  a  general  rule,  if  two  or  more 
ends  break  down  on  the  table,  to  break 
the  sliver  entering  the  can  and  to  re- 
move all  single  from  can  before  piec- 
ing up  end  again.  This  rule  should  be 
rigidly  enforced  so  as  to  prevent,  as 
far  as  possible,  single  going  to  the 
drawing  frame.  Keep  the  leather  de- 
taching rolls  in  perfect  condition  as  to 
covering  and  varnish.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  varnish  all  detaching  rolls  at  least 
once  a  week.  Varnish  leather-  covered 
rolls  in  draw  box  as  often  as  neces- 
sary. Take  percentages  of  at  least  six 
combers  a  day  to  see  just  what  they 
are  doing.  The  comber  sliver  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  at  each  process 
is  350  revolutions  per  minute.  A  good 
weight  for  the  sliver  is  68  grains  per 
yard  at  the  breaker  and  75  grains  per 
yard  at  the  finisher.  The  sliver  is  then 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  In- 
to .50  hank  roving.  From  here  it  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  proc- 
ess being  as  follows:  First  interme- 
diate, 1;  second  intermediate,  3,  and 
fine  12  hank.  This  roving  may  be  either 
mule  or  ring  spun.  If  the  latter,  use  a 
frame  with  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  23  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1^4  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
5%  inches;  twist  per  inch,  26.52,  and 
speed  of  spindle,  8,200  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  taken  and 
conditioned  and  is  ready  for  weaving. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

AMBER. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 

G. ;   15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;    1  per 

cent  sal  soda;   after-treat  with  V2  per 


cent    bichromate    of    potash;     %    per 
cent  sulphate  of  copper. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue 
FF. ;   15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;   1  per 
cent  sal   soda;    after-treat  with   i   per 
cent  sulphate  of  copper. 

LIGHT  PEA  GREEN. 
Six  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  FF. ;  8 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  FF. ;  10 
pounds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda, 
after-treat  with  1  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  erika  pink  G.;    10 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
Four  ounces  benzo  fast  black;    1-16 
ounce  chrysophenine;    5  pounds  Glau- 
ber's salt;    %   pound   sal  soda. 

PEARL. 
Four  ounces  naphthamine  black  N. ; 
5  pounds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda; 
after-treat  with  i/^  pound  bichrome. 

NAVY. 

Four  per  cent   naphthamine  blue   2 

B.;   20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent 

sal  soda;    after-treat  with   1  per  cent 

bichrome;  1  per  cent  sulphate  coppei. 

NAVY    BLUE. 

Two  per  cent  diaminogene  blue 
BB.;  2  per  cent  diaminogene  blue  NA. ; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

Diazotize:  Two  and  one -half  per 
cent  nitrite  soda;  5  per  cent  sulphuric 
acid;  turn  for  fifteen  minutes  and 
rinse. 

Develop:  Dissolve  14 14  pounds  beta 
naphthol;  18  pounds  soda  lye  at  77 
degrees  Tw. ;  20  gallons  boiling  water; 
for  100  pounds  yarn  add  1%  gallons  of 
developing  solution,  turn  for  15  min- 
utes, rinse  and  give  a  good  soaping. 

RED. 

Six  per  cent  primuline;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  diazo- 
tize and  develop  as  the  navy  blue. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. 
Four  ounces  chromine  G. ;   5  pounds 
salt;  1  pound  sal  soda. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


607 


GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  green  G.;  3 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A.;  after- 
treat  with   3  per  cent  bichrome. 
BLACK. 

Fifteen  per  cent  immedial  black 
NN.;  15  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3 
per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 


FILLING  REVERSIBLES 

Filling  reversibles  is  a  term  given 
to  a  class  of  cotton  fabrics  used  ex- 
tensively in  the  manufacture  of  dress- 
ing sacques,  kimonos,  bath  robes,  etc. 
In  cotton  warp  and  shoddy  or  woolen 
filling  goods  the  same  principle  of  con- 
struction is  adopted  for  goods  for 
horse  blankets,  rugs,  etc. 

THE    RESULT    DESIRED 

is  to  have  a  cloth  containing  two  col- 
ors, each  color  being  in  solid  blocks  or 
effects,  and  to  have  one  side  the  re- 
verse of  the  other.  In  low-price  goods 
this  is  obtained  by  a  combination  of 
weave,  color  and  finishing. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  cloth  of  this  type 
showing  solid  blocks  of  brown  ana 
white  running  warp  way.  Where  brown 
appears  on  the  face,  white  appears  op- 
posite on  the  back.  In  this  particular 
sample  the  white  bar  across  the  cloth 
shows  white  on  both  sides.  Brown 
shows  opposite  white  at  all  other 
places. 

Fig.  2  Illustrates  the  weave  for  cloth 
Fig.  1,  being  on  80  ends  and  96  picks. 
Sections  A  correspond  to  brown  sec- 
tions on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  and  sec- 
tions B,  indicated  on  picks  marked 
white,  to  the  white  sections.  The  weave 
is  really  complete  on  eight  picks,  the 
coloring  Indicating  the  extent  of  the 
pattern. 

In  Fig.  2  the  dots  Indicate  the  face 
weave,  I.  e.,  at  these  places  the  filling 
■which  is  always  considerably  coarser 
than  the  warp,  almost  covers  the  lat- 
ter. On  account  of  the  large  number 
of  picks,  as  compared  to  warp,  the  rel- 
ative sizes  of  the  yarns  and  the  pe- 
culiarity of  the  weave,  the  filling  on 
the  picks  indicated  by  the  dots  comes 
together,  covering  the  picks  Indicated 


by  the  crosses.  The  picks  marked  In 
crosses  come  together  on  the  under 
side  of  the  cloth. 

In  the  section  bracketed  and  Indi- 
cated as  containing  80  picks,  the  fill- 
ing is  picked  two  brown  and  two 
white  alternately,  making  40  brown 
picks  on  the  face  and  40  white  picks  on 
the  back  in  sections  A  and  the  reverse 
colors  in  sections  B.  The  fabric  is 
really  double  in  the  filling  and  single 
in  the  warp. 

Sections  A  form  a  left-hand  twill  on 
the  face  and  a  right-hand  twill  on  the 


Fig.  1. 

back;  sections  B  vice-versa.  The 
construction  of  the  fabric  under 
consideration  Is  42  ends  and  62  (31 
face  and  31  back)  picks  per  Inch  fin- 
ished. The  warp  Is  ISs  and  the  filling 
714s.  The  latter  contains  very  little 
twist.  The  warp  is  all  white.  The 
filling  is  two  brown  and  two  white  for 
80  picks,  16  white;  total,  96  picks  per 
pattern.  The  width  is  27  Inches  fin- 
ished. The  harness  draft  requires 
eight  harnesses,  four  for  sections  A 
and  four  for  sections  B,  in  addition  to 
two  for  selvages.  Reed  2  or  4  ends 
per  dent.  The  chain  draft  Is  shown 
in  Fig.  3.   The  box  chain  would  be  re- 


608 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


quired  to  be  built  for  96  picks,  and  a 
loom  with  a  repeater  or  multiplier  mo- 
tion would  be  the  best  to  use. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 
The  simpler  types  of  filling  reversi- 


:^^m 


SB: 


■m^ 


->:+^. 


m 


iEt: 


a 
il 


bles  can  be  woven  readily  on  any  ordi- 
nary dobby  loom  arranged  with  a  two 
by  one  box  motion.  As  the  warp  is 
hidden   entirely    after    finishing,   one 


warp  only  is  required.  On  account  of 
the  coarseness  of  the  filling,  large 
shuttles  are  necessary.  For  rugs  a  jac- 
quard  head  is  usually  used. 
FINISHING. 
Practically  all  the  finishing  these 
goods  receive  is  In  raising  the  fibre  to 
form  a  nap.  This  nap  entirely  oblit- 
erates the  weave  effect.  The  soft- 
twisted  filling  is  readily  raised  by  the 
card  wire  of  the  cotton  raising  ma- 
chines. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  that  make  the  yarns  of 
which  filling  reversibles  are  made  will 
be  found  in  the  first  and  second  divi- 
sion of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  filling  yarn  is  slack  twist- 
ed, and  for  the  fabric  to  be  described 
is  a  number  iy2  yarn.  This  is  made 
from  various  stocks;  sometimes  only 
straight  cotton  is  used,  but  more  gen- 
erally it  is  composed  of  a  certain  per- 

aannaaDBBa 
■aBDPQBBaa 
aBBBLiBaBaa 

BDBBBaBDDD 
DBaBODBBOB 
aaDaBDBDBB 

naaaaaDDDB 
BaaDBaaaaa 

Fig.  3. 

centage  of  waste,   sometimes  as  high 
as  60  per  cent  waste  being  used. 

THE  WASTE 
used  also  differs,  some  using  cards, 
some  comber  and  some  both.  It  is 
generally  safe  to  say  if  waste  is  used 
that  it  will  be  card  waste,  for  the 
mills  making  this  class  of  goods 
are  not  generally  equipped  with 
combers.  The  stock  with  which 
the  waste  is  mixed  is  of  from  %  to  1 
inch  staple,  according  to  the  quality 
of  the  fabric  required.  A  fine  average 
staple  to  take  is  one  of  i-inch  length. 
The  mixing  would  be  done  by  hand, 
and  it  is  almost  needless  to  state  that 
large  mixings  should  always  be  made 
for  various  reasons  that  have  been 
given  previously.  The  stock  of  which 
the  warp  yarn  is  made  is  1  to  1  inch 
in  length,  generally  the  former  length 
being  used.  While  the  stock  for  this 
yarn  is  sometimes  mixed  with  waste, 
the      percentage       of      waste       does 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


609 


not  run  as  high  as  that  used  for 
the  filling  stock.  The  stock  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  picking, 
before  which  it  passes  through 
an  opener.  Keep  the  hopper  of  this 
opener  well  filled  with  cotton  so  that 
the  fitting  or  spiked  apron  will  always 
have  a  full  load.  The  beaters  general- 
ly used  for  the  pickers  for  this  class 
of  goods  are  of  the  two-bladed,  rigid 
type  and  the  speed  of  that  in  the 
breaker  picker  should  be  about  1,550 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the  in- 
termediate picker.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  for  both  warp  and  filling  yarns 
is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  38  pounds 
or  a  14-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
doubled  at  the  back  of  the  finisher 
picker  four  into  one.  The  speed  of 
this  beater  Is  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  the  cotton  pass- 
ing through  about  43  beats  per  Inch. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
of  this  machine  is  39  pounds  or  a  14 1/^- 
ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one-half 
pound  either  side  of  standard  weight 
for  lap  is  allowed.  Those  having  more 
of  a  variation  than  this  are  put  at 
the  back  of  the  finisher  picker  and 
run  over  again,  although  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  run  two  of  these  laps 
at  the  same  time,  for  this  would  be 
more  than  apt  to  throw  the  weight  of 
the  lap  being  made  out.  Look  out  for 
the  direction  of  the  air  currents  and 
see  that  an 

EVEN  AND  UNIFORM  LAP 

is  being  made  at  the  front.  Do  not 
fool  with  the  lap  weight  adjustments 
too  much,  for  too  much  is  worse  than 
not  enough,  for  the  former  will  keep 
the  weight  of  the  lap  Jumping  all 
around,  whereas  the  latter  is  more  apt 
to  get  the  same  weight  of  laps.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card  where  the 
draft  should  not  be  more  than  90.  The 
settings  of  the  card  used  should  be 
the  same  as  those  given  in  connection 
with  the  article  on  indigo  prints,  ex- 
cept that  of  the  feed  plate  to  the  lick- 
er-in,  which  should  be  set  Just  a  trifl* 


farther,  longer  than  the  length  of  the 
staple.  The  flats  and  doffer  should  be 
covered  with  No.  34s  wire  and  the  cyl- 
inder No.  32s  wire  fillet.  The  speed  of 
the  licker  should  be  350  revolutions 
per  minute,  while  the  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
55  minutes.  The  cards  should  be 
stripped  at  least 

THREE  TIMES  A  DAY 

and  an  extra  stripping  would  greatly 
improve  the  yarn,  but  is  not  gener- 
ally done.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
65  grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
is  975  to  1,050  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  This  sliver  is  next  put  through 
two  processes  of  drawing  where  the 
doublings  are  6  into  1.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per 
minute  for  each  stock,  the  draft  of 
the  breaker  frame  is  5.25,  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  being  72  grains.  The 
draft  at  the  finisher  Is  5.60,  the  weight 
of  the  drawing  being  72  grains  per 
yard.  For  this  class  of  work  either 
leather-covered  or  metallic  top  rolls 
may  be  used.  But  the  metallic  top 
rolls  are  considered  by  many  to  have  a 
great  many  advantages,  one  of  the 
principal  ones  being  that  more  pro- 
duction is  turned  out  with  the  same 
speed  of  roll.  No  matter  which  top 
roll  is  used,  they  should  be  watched 
carefully  to  see  that  they  are  in  per- 
fect condition 

FOR  MAKING  GOOD  WORK. 
It  is  also  a  good  policy  to  watch  the 
stop-motions,  for  it  is  these,  if  they 
are  not  in  proper  working  order,  that 
cause  single  to  be  made.  The  sliver 
for  the  filling  yarn  is  made  into  .40 
hank  slubber  roving,  while  that  for 
the  warp  yarn  is  made  into  .50 
hank  roving.  The  filling  yarn  is  put 
through  one  more  process  of  fly  frames 
and  made  into  1  hank  roving,  which 
is  taken  to  the  mule  room  and  spun 
into  7%s,  having  a  2.80  twist  per  Inch. 
The  slubber  yarn  for  the  warp  yarn 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  at  the  first  being  made  into 
1  hank  and  at  the  second  into  3^4 
hank.  This  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room  and  spun  into  15s 
on  a  frame  having  a  3-inch  gauge: 
2% -inch   diameter  ring;    7 -Inch  trav- 


610 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


erse,  18  turns  per  twist  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,200  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped 
and  then   put  through  a  slasher. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

HAVANNA  BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  brown  RR. ; 
3  per  cent  Immedial  cutch  O.;  6 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Eight  per  cent  pyrol  navy  blue;  8 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  ceni 
soda  ash;    25   per  cent  salt. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  pyrol  green  B.;   10  pei 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;    25   per  cent  salt. 

PEARL. 

One-half  per  cent  immedial  blacV 
N  R  T. ;  5  per  cent  salt;  1  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  tetrazo  brilliant  blue 
6  B.;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

RED. 

Five  per  cent  primuline  Y. ;    2   pe 
cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

Diazotize:  2%  per  cent  nitrite  soda; 
5  per  cent  spirits  salt. 

Develop:  2  per  cent  beta  naphthol 
2  per  cent  soda  ash. 

SLATE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  black  N  B.; 
^  per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B. 
20  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
2  per  cent  sulphide  soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  yellow 
D. ;    1/^    per   cent   immedial   cutch   G.; 
1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent 
soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt 

BROWN. 
Eight  per  cent  katlg>8n  brown  V.;   T 
per  cent  katigen  yellow  G  G.;  10  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda 
d^;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt 


HELIOTROPE. 
Eight  per  cent  thiogene  violet  B.;   8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash:  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N.; 
10   per   cent   sulphide   sodium;    3   per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
PINK. 
One  per  cent  Erika  pink;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda;   20  per  cent  salt. 


DHOOTIES 

Dhootie  cloths  are  a  class  of  fab- 
rics used  very  extensively  in  Zanzibar, 
Africa,  Egypt  and  India,  for  scarfs, 
turbans,  and  girdle  or  body  cloths. 

They  vary  in  width  from  18  inches 
to  50  inches,  and  in  length  from  two 
to  six  yards.  The  cut  lengths  vary 
from  12  to  40  yards. 

They  are  distinguished  by  gaudy, 
highly  colored  borders,  running  length- 
wise, and  headings  running  across 
the  piece  betwen  which  both  "warp 
and  filling  yarns  are  of  gray  white 
or  other  light  color.  Both  sides  of 
the  cloth  are  similar,  the  fabric  be 
ing  reversible.  The  borders  length- 
wise range  from  about  one-half  inch 
to  four  inches  in  width. 

THE  REAL  DHOOTIE 
is  a  native  eastern  hand-woven  fabric, 
in  which  the  colored  filling  interlaces 
only  with  the  border  warp  yarns.  To 
weave  such  a  fabric  the  services  of 
three  persons  are  required,  one  to 
take  care  of  the  center  and  one  for 
each  of  the  borders. 

It  is  practically  the  only  article  of 
apparel  used  by  many  of  the  poorer 
classes  in  the  eastern  countries. 

Referring  to  these  goods  an  Indian 
textile  Journal  states  that  the  follow- 
ing are  standard  sizes:  22  Inches  to 
23  inches  wide,  2  yards  long;  24  inches 
to  25  inches  wide,  2i/^  yards  long;  26 
inches  to  28  inches  wide,  3  yards  long; 
29  Inches  to  32  Inches  wide,  3i/^  yards 
long;  29  Inches  and  upwards  wide,  4 
to  5  yards  long. 

THE  YARNS 
employed  vary  from  30s  to  40s  In  the 
warp,  and  from  S68  to  60s  In  the  filling. 


A.   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSABY 


«11 


A  great  many  of  the  soodt  are  made 
wiih  34s  warp  and  40s  filling  in  the 
center  of  the  goods,  the  borders  being 
about  2-508  and  2-608. 

Although  not  usually  the  case,  they 
are  sometimea  made  with  several  col- 
ored stripes  in  the  width  of  the  piece, 
in  addition  to  those  forming  the  bor 
ders. 

The  cross  borders,  or  headings,  are 
sometimes  very  elaborate,  varying  in 
length  up  to  about  20  inches.  In  the 
longer  types  these  headings  are  in- 
serted every  few  inches,  whereas  In 
the  shorter  types  they  are  woven  only 
at  the  beginning  and  end  of  each 
scarf.     The 

BORDERS    AND   HEADINGS 

are  intended  to  be  made  so  that  the 
colors  of  which  they  are  composed 
will  appear  as  prominent  or  solid  as 
possible.     To  accomplish  this  on  the 


on  one  of  the  positive  motion  princi 
pies,  as  on  narrow  ware  looms.  TheB< 
two  shuttles 

WORK  ON  OPPOSITE  SIDES 

of  the  loom  and  interweave  only  witb 
the  warp  yarns  constituting  the  bor- 
ders. The  small  shuttles  cross  tht 
ends  at  the  same  time  as  the  fiy  shut 
tie,  so  that  the  amount  of  productioi 
is  not  affected  either   way  by  them. 

Three  filling  forks  are  used,  one  for 
each  shuttle,  so  that  if  any  of  the  fill- 
ings break,  the  loom  is  stopped  in- 
stantly. 

The  border  shuttles  run  in  a  differ- 
ent plane,  and  move  in  the  opposite 
direction  to  the  fly  shuttles,  so  that 
only  one  pick  of  filling  passes  in  front 
of  the  filling  forks  on  the  pick  required 
to  actuate  the  stop-motion.  Catch 
threads  are  used  to  connect  the  bor 
ders  and  centers. 


side  borders  the  method  usually  adopt- 
ed is  to  arrange  the  colors  in  the  war 
yarns,  and  crowd  them  in  the  reed 
so  that  they  will  cover  the  filling  ar 
nearly  as  possible.  In  this  class  of 
dhooties  the  filling  is  of  the  same  cole 
as  the  warp  of  the  center  of  the  goods. 
This  filling  necessarily  shows  to  <• 
greater  or  less  degree  in  the  borders 
and  is  regarded  as  an  objectionabb 
feature. 

When  weaving  the  better  grades  of 
goods,  those  nearly  approaching  ir 
appearance  the  native  hand-made 
goods,  another  method  is  adopted  t' 
make  the  prevailing  color  in  the  bor 
ders,  usually  red,  as  bright  as  possi- 
ble. They  are  made  on  a  loom  con- 
taining three  shuttles,  one  of  which  is 
a  fly  shuttle  and  carries  the  filling  fc 
the  centers  of  the  cloth;  the  other 
two  are  small  shuttles,  made  to  worl 


When  tlie  goods  are  required  to  b 
made  with  colored  headings,  the  bo 
motion  of  the  loom  is  actuated  to  in- 
sert different  colors  of  filling  as  may 
be   necessary,    the   loom   weaving   th 
cross  borders,  or  headings,  and  center 
automatically.     If  a  fringe  is  desire'" 
it  Is  made  in  the  usual  manner. 

The    figure    illustrates    one    border 
and  part  of  the  white  center  of  cheap 
dhootie  cloth,  in  which  the  white  fill 
ing    interlaces    with    both    center    and 
border. 

The  border  is  2  5-16  inches  wide  and 
contains  five  colors,  red,  green,  yel 
low,  white  and  orange.  The  outer 
stripe  of  red  is  1  3-16  inches  wide 
The  count  of  the  center  cloth  is  52x 
46,  and  Is  reeded  two  ends  per  dent. 
The  fancy  weave  portion  Is  arranged 
one  end  of  green  and  one  end  of  red, 
alternately,  and  is  reeded  five  ends  per 


612 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


dent.  The  remainder  of  the  border  is 
reeded  four  ends  per  dent.  With  the 
exception  of  the  32  ends  working  a? 
extra  warp  the  weave  of  the  fabric 
is  plain.  Eight  white  ends  worliin. 
as  four  divide  the  border  from  th 
center.  The  border  ends  are  ply 
yarns.  The  center  ends  and  the  fill- 
ing are  single. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

For  plain  dhooties,  in  which  the 
borders  as  well  as  the  centers  weave 
plain,  an  ordinary  single  box  loom  is 
used,  unless  cross  borders  are  re 
quired,  when  a  box  motion  becomes 
necessary.  In  England,  where  these 
goods  are  extensively  manufactured, 
side  cam,  revolving  box  looms  are 
usually  used. 

For  the  better  grades,  where  the 
borders  are  interlaced  with  colored 
and  the  centers  usually  with  white  or 
gray  filling,  a  loom  of  a  special  type 
previously  referred  to  as  having  posi 
tively  acting  and  fly  shuttles  is  used. 
This  contains  a  dobby  or  other  head 
motion. 

Whether  for  low  or  high  grader 
plain  or  fancy,  the  border  warp  yarns 
are  usually  run  from  small  rollers  oi 
spools,  on  account  of  being  reeded 
differently,  and  are  often  of  different 
counts  from  the  center  yarns. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  dhooties  ar 
made  would  be  manufactured  ir 
mills  having  the  equipment  of  ma- 
chinery found  in  the  second  divisio) 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  dhootie  which  is  taken  for  an 
example  will,  be  supposed  to  be  com 
posed  of  34s  warp  and  40s  filling  for 
the  center  and  2-60s  for  the  borders. 
These  yarns  are  made  from  the  fol 
lowing  cottons:  The  2-60s  is  made 
from  1%-inch  American  cotton  and  is 
combed.  The  40s  and  34s  are  made 
from  a  1  3-16-inch  staple  American 
cotton    and    may    be 

EITHER   COMBED  OR  CARDED. 
P\)r  this  article  we  will  consider  that 
they  are  carded,  but  as  it  is  desirable 
that  the  yarn  shall  be  as  free  as  pos 
sible  from  neps,  the  speeds   and   set- 


tings of  the  card  will  be  different  froir 
those  generally  used  for  this  count  of 
carded  yarn.  All  three  cottons  maj 
be  either  mixed  by  hand  or  by  ma- 
chine; the  advantages  of  machine 
mixing  (by  means  of  a  bale  breaker) 
have  been  already  previously  given. 
Each  mixing  should  of  course  be  i: 
separate  bins  and  as  large  as  possible 
so  as  to  cause  as  little  variation  ae 
possible  in  the  finished  yarn.  It  is  al- 
so an  important  point  to  see  that  th( 
different  bales  are  intermixed.  The 
cottons  are  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of 

PICKING  MACHINERY. 
The  good  waste  is  mixed  in  with  th 
raw  stock  as  it  is  collected,  but  care 
should  be  used  to  scatter  the  waste, 
so  that  it  will  be  evenly  divided  all 
over  the  mixing.  The  hopper  of  th' 
opener  should  be  kept  full  of  raw  stock 
all  the  time  for  reasons  given  in  pre- 
vious articles.  The  cotton  should  leave 
the  opener  and  be  delivered  on  the 
lattice  apron  of  the  breaker  in  a  fluffy 
state,  and  if  the  hopper  has  been  kept 
full  all  the  time  it  will  also  be  fairly 
even,  i.  e.,  if  each  yard  of  cotton  pass- 
ed to  the  feed  roll  is  weighed,  a, 
great  deal  of  variation  will  not  be 
found.  The  beaters  of  the  pickers 
used  for  this  class  of  goods  are  gen- 
erally of  the  rigid,  two-bladed  type, 
although  a  great  many  are  using  the 
pin  beater.  When  the  latter  is  used,  it 
does  not  require  as  high  a  fan  speed 
as  the  rigid  form  of  beater.  This  is 
due  to  its  wide  arms,  and  as  it  has 
three  of  these,  it  makes 

CONSIDERABLY    MORE   DRAFT 
than  the  two-bladed  type  of  beater. 

The  speed  of  the  beater  for  1  3-16- 
inch  stock  for  this  class  of  goods  is  1,- 
550  revolutions  per  minute,  and  for 
the  li-inch  stock  is  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  lap 
at  the  breaker  is  40  pounds  for  all 
staples  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of 
the  beater  of  this  machine  Is  1,475 
revolutions  per  minute  for  1  3-16-inch 
stock  and  1,425  for  Ig-inch  stock.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  is  87%  pounds 
or  a  12 -ounce   lap   for  l|-inch  itock, 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


613 


Rnd  a  10-ounce  lap  for  1  3-16-inch 
stock.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  as  before, 
4  into  1.  The  speed  of  this  beater  is 
1,475  revolutions  per  minute  for  1  3-16- 
inch  staple,  and  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute  for  li-inch  staple.  Tlie  to- 
tal weight  of  the  lap  is  39  pounds  for 
1  3-16-inch  staple  stock  and  35  pounds 
for  Ig-inch  staple.  A  variation  of  half 
a  pound  either  side  of  standard  weight 
is  allowed.  All  finished  laps  that  vary 
from  their  standard  weight  more  thar 
this  are  put  back  and  run  through 
the  finisher  picker  again.  At  this  ma- 
chine the  cut-roving  waste  is  also  mix- 
ed in.  Sometimes  this  is  done  by  tak- 
ing out  two  laps  at  the  back,  the  two 
middle  ones,  and  the  cut  waste  spread 
evenly  over  the  space  thus  made.  It 
is 

A   BETTER   METHOD 

to  use  a  roving  waste  picker,  as  then 
all  the  twist  is  taken  out  of  the  rov- 
ing. After  passing  through  this  rov- 
ing picker  the  cotton  is  made  into  a 
lap  at  the  breaker  or  intermediate 
machine,  and  is  then  put  through  the 
finisher  picker,  when  it  is  used  as  fol- 
lows: three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one 
lap  cut-roving  waste.  The  weight  per 
yard  at  the  front  of  the  finisher  pick- 
er is  as  follows:  for  1%-Inch  stock 
121^  ounces;  for  1  3-16-inch  stock,  14 
ounces  per  yard.  The  cotton  next 
passes  to  the  card.  The  cards  for  all 
lengths  of  staples  will  be  set  alike 
for  reasons  previously  given.  Set 
doffer  to  cylinder  with  5-l,1000ths-inch 
gauge.  Set  under  screen  as  follows:  at 
licker-in  with  12-l,000ths-inch  gauge 
middle  to  34-l,O0Oths  and  front  ^4  of 
an  inch.  Licker-in  to  cylinder  with  7- 
l,000ths  of  an  inch.  Licker-in  screen 
to  licker-in,  3-16ths  of  an  inch.  Set 
bottom  licker-in  knife  with  5-l,000ths 
gauge,  top  knife  to  10-l,000ths  of  an 
inch  gauge.  Set  feed  plate  to  licker-in 
to  7-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge,  and  top 
flats  to  12-l,000th8  of  an  inch  gauge. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
300  revolutions  per  minute.  The  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  40 
minutes  for  all  stock.  The  production 
should  be  500  pounds  for  2 -60s  yarn 
and  600  pounds  for  the  other  yams. 
Cards  should  be  stripped  three  times 


a  day  and  ground  at  least  once  a 
nionth  and  then  the  grinders  should  be 
allowed  to  stay  on  at  least  half  a 
day.  The  cards  should  be  reset  after 
grinding.  Special  care  should  be  tak 
en  to  see  that  the  top  flats  are  sharp 
and  are  ground  evenly  and  do  not 
have  more  taken  off  the  toe  than 
the  heel,  as  is  generally  the  case  un- 
less great  care  is  taken.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  is  50  grains  per  yard  for 
each   staple.    After   passing  the    card 

THE   PROCESSES 

of  the  stocks  differ.  We  will  first  fol- 
low the  course  of  the  carded  staples. 
These  are  put  through  three  processes 
of  drawing,  the  front  roll  speed  ai 
each  process  being  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  is  70  grains  per  yard.  Great 
care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the 
stop-motions  are  in  perfect  working 
order,  otherwise  a  great  tleal  of 
trouble  will  result  in  single  and 
double.  At  the  slubber  the  sliver  is 
made  into  .60  hank  roving.  This  rov- 
ing is  then  put  through  two  processes 
of  fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermedi- 
ate it  is  made  into  2  hank  roving  and 
at  the  second  into  7  hank  for  the  34s 
warp  and  8  hank  for  40s  filling. 

The  card  sliver  for  the  2-60s  yarn  is 
combed  and  the  general  sequence  of 
processes  is  as  follows:  Sliver  lap  ma- 
chine, where  it  is  doubled  14  into  1 
and  has  a  draft  of  about  2;  a  yard  of 
lap  at  the  front  weighing  300  grains 
per  yard  for  an  83-inch  lap.  Six  of 
these  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  and  made  into  a  260 
grain  lap  at  the  front.  Keep  top  leath- 
er rolls  in  good  condition  and  well 
varnished.  Six  laps  from  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  are  put  up  at  the  comber, 
if  it  is  a  six-head  machine,  or  eight 
laps  if  it  is  an  eight-head  machine,  and 
the  weight  of  the  finished  sliver  is  45 
grains  per  yard.   The 

SPEED  OF  THIS  COMBER 
is  90  nips  per  minute,  the  per  cent  of 
waste  taken  out  being  16.  Keep  the 
detaching  rolls  well  varnished,  recipes 
for  which  have  been  given  in  previous 
articles  as  well  as  a  means  for  keep- 
ing the  laps  of  the  leather  from  split- 
ting.    After   passing    the    comber   the 


614 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


sliver  Is  put  through  two  processes  of 
leather-covered  top  roll  drawing 
frames,  the  doublings  being  8  into  1 
at  the  breaker  and  6  into  1  at  the  fin- 
isher. The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  is  70  grains  per  yard. 
This  is  made  into  .50  hank  roving  at 
the  slubber  and  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  being  as  follows:  First, 
1  hank;  second,  SVz  hank,  and  fine 
frame,  12  hank.  This  is  then  taken  to 
the  ring  spinning  room  and  spun  Into 
60s  on  a  frame  with  a  l|-inch  diameter 
ring,  5-inch  traverse,  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  8,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute; after  which  it  is  doubled  into  2- 
60s.  The  roving  for  the  40s  filling  is 
spun  on  a  ring  frame  having  a  li-inch 
diameter  ring,  5i/^-inch  traverse  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  8,800  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher.  The 
roving  for  warp  is  spun  into  34s  on  a 
warp  spinning  frame  with  a  li-inch 
diameter  ring,  6%-inch  traverse,  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  10,200  revolutions 
per  minute,  after  which  it  is  taken  to 
the  conditioning  room. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.; 
2  per  cent  immedial  indone  3  B.;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

GREEN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D. ;  5 
per  cent  immedial  indone  B.;    10  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 

Six  per  cent  primuline;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda,  rinse; 
diazotize:  2i^  per  cent  nitrite  soda; 
rmse;  develop:  2  per  cent  beta  naph- 
thol,  rinse  and  soap  at  150  degrees  F. 

YELLOW. 
Mordant   with    tannine    and    tartar 
emetic,  rinse;    dye  with  3^^   per  cent 
thioflavine  T.  and  rinse. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 
Dye  yellow  with  thioflavine  T.;  and 


dye  on  top  with  2  per  cent  brilliant 
green  Y. ;  rinse  and  give  a  weak  soap- 
ing. 

ORANGE. 

Dye  with  6  per  cent  primuline;  after- 
treat  with  Vz.  degree  Tw.  solution  of 
chloride  of   lime. 

UGHT   BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  thion  orange  N. ;  4 
per  cent  sulphide  soda;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
after-treat  with  2  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

MYRTLE   GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  thion  green  G.;  2  per 

cent  thion  yellow  G. ;  2  per  cent  thion 

green  B.;  10  per  cent  sulphide  soda;  3 

per  cent  soda  ash;    25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 

Eight  per  cent  thiogene  red   O.;    8 
per   cent    sulphide   soda;    3    per    cent 
soda  ash;   25  per  cent  salt. 
BLUE  BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  brilliant 
black  B.;  10  per  cent  sulphide  soda;  3 
per  cent   soda  ash;    25  per  cent  salt. 


UNEQUALLY  REEDED  STRIPES 

Under  the  above  heading  may  be  in- 
cluded an  extensive  type  of  cotton  fab- 
rics, variously  known  as  satin  or  sat- 
een stripes,  doria  stripes,  etc. 

They  are  made  in  all  grades,  from 
medium  to  fine,  and  used  for  many 
purposes,  such  as  dress  fabrics,  cur- 
tain hangings,  etc.,  and  are  usually 
shown  in  all  white  or  solid  colors. 

They  are  characterized  by  promi- 
nent stripe  effects  which  appear  to 
stand  up  from  the  ground  of  the  cloth. 

The  raised  stripes  are  produced  by 
crowding  more  ends  in  a  given  space 
than  are  contained  In  an  equal  space 
occupied  by  the  ground  ends  and  by 
weaving  them  differently.  As  a  rule 
the  yarns  forming  the  raised  stripes 
are  woven  in  satin  or  twill  order, 
warp  flush  weaves,  while  those  form- 
ing the  ground   weave   plain. 

Theoretically,  warp  ends  weaving 
plain  should  take  up  or  contract  in 
length  faster  than  ends  weaving  twill 
or  satin,  on  account  of  the  greater  num- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


615 


ber  of  interlacings.  This  applies  to 
cloths  in  which  each  dent  contains 
the  same  number  of  ends  throughout 
the   entire   width   of   cloth. 

It  has  been  found  in  practice  that 
when  weaving  a  fabric  containing  sec- 
tions reeded,  say,  two  ends  per  dent, 
and  others  four  or  five  ends  per  dent, 
the  yams  that  are  crowded  in  the  reed 
will  contract  more  than  those  reeded 
t  .vo   ends   per  dent.     For   example,  a 


c 


B 


gBaaaiDB  DSBBBa  ca  bdbb  db  bbbbbb 
db'bdbd  bbbbdb  bq  bbbd  bo  ■■■■db 
bbdaobob  bbobbb  db  obbb  db  bbdbbb 
DBDBDBD  BBBBBD  BD  BBDB  BD  ■■■■■□ 
BBQBDBOB  BDBBBB  EB  BDBB  DB  ByBBaB 
jBDaDBD  aaaDBB  aa  bbbd  bd  ■■■□■■ 

DBD^D^D^  D^^^BB  GB  DBBB  DB  DBBBBB 

BDBDBDBO  BBBBDfl  BD  BBDB  BD  ■■■■QB 

nBOIDBD^  BaDBMB  DB  BDBB  OB  ■■□■■■ 

■□BDBDBD  BBBBBD  BD  BBBD  BD  ■■■■■□ 

D^aao^n^  anaaaa  db  dbbb  db  ■dbbbb 

■DBDanaa  bbhdbb  bd  bbdb  bq  bbbdbb 

6  timei      2  times     5  times         2  times 

Fig  1. 

warp  stripe  interlaced  five  ends  sat- 
in order  and  reeded  five  ends  per 
dent  would  contract  in  length  about 
as  fast  as  the  yarns  weaving  plain  in 
the  same  fabric,  if  the  latter  were  of 
the  same  counts  of  yarn  and  reeded 
two  ends  per  dent.  This  fact  explains 
the  reason  why  satin  stripe  fabrics  are 
usually  woven  from  one  beam. 

A  characteristic  weave  is  shown  in 
Fig.    1. 

The  warp  layout  of  one  repeat  of 
the   pattern  is   as   follows: 


Ends.  Dents. 

48  24 

12  2 

2  1 

4  1 

2  1 

12  2 


Harnesses. 
1    to    6 
7    to    12 
1    and   2^ 
13   to  16  J  5  times. 
1   and   2 
7    to    12 


Selvages   on   harnesses   1   and    2. 

The  chain  draft  Is  shown  In  Fig.  2. 

In  Fig.  1  sections  A  weave  plain, 
sections  B  weave  6  end  warp  satin,  and 
sections  C  weave  broken  crow,  "warp 
face. 

When  combining  weaves  in  this 
manner  one  of  the  principal  points  to 
consider  is  to  bring  the  warp  float 
of  one  section  opposite  the  filling  float 
of  the  adjoinng  section,  or,  as  it  Is 
termed,  they  should  be  made  to  "cut" 
each  other  as  well  as  possible.  When 
this  is  done,  the  stripes  have  a  more 
distinct  and  cleaner  cut  appearance 
than  when  It  Is  Ignored. 


The  construction  data  of  the  sample 
under  construction  are:  warp,  458; 
filling,  40s  Egyptian;  finished  width, 
28  Inches;  width  In  reed,  29.9  inches; 
ends  in  warp,  2,856;  sley  reed,  76. 
This  represents  the  proportional  num- 
ber of  ends  per  inch  in  the  plain 
section.  Average  sley,  102.  This  in- 
dicates the  average  number  of  ends 
per  inch  in  the  entire  width  of  cloth. 
Picks  per  inch,  80. 

These  goods  may  be  woven  on  a 
single  box  dobby  loom,  the  warp  yarns 
being  of  one  count,  and  one  filling 
only  being  required. 

The  fabrics  are  found  in  many  va- 
riations of  patterns  and  qualities,  and 
are  subjected  to  suitable  methods  of 
finishing,  according  to  the  use  to 
which  they  are  intended  to  be  put. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  that  make  unequally  reed- 
ed stripes  are  found  in  the  second 
division,  and  while  the  count  of  yarn 
varies  to  a  great  extent  for  this  class 
of  goods,  a  good  average  count  would 
be  45s  warp  yarn  and  40s  filling.  It  is 
not  our  intention  to  say  much  about 
the  cotton  warp  yarn  otherwise  than 
a  few  general  remarks,  i.  e.,  that  the 
yarn  is  of  1%  to  1  3-16-inch  American 
stock  and  carded,  the  hank  rovings 
being  as  follows:  for  slubber  .55  hank. 
Top. 

aBDBQBnBBBBBBDBB 
■DBDBDBBBBDBBBBD 
DBDBDBBBQBBBDBBB 
■DBDBDBBBBBDBBDB 
DBGBDBaDBBBBBDBB 

■DBoaDBaaaaaaaag 

GBDBDBDB  BBBaGBBi 
■DBGBDBBBBDBBBDB 
nBGBDBBBDBBBBDaB 
■OBDBGBBBBBDBBBy 

rBDBGBBDBBBBOBBi 
BLBDBDBBBDBBBBGa 

Fig  2. 

first  intermediate,  2.50,  and  for  the 
fine  fly  frame,  10  hank,  and  is  ring 
spun  Into  45s  yarn.  Further  particu- 
lars for  making  this  count  of  yarn 
may  be  found  in  previous  articles  deal- 
ing with  the  same  length  of  stock  and 
making  counts  of  yarn  from  35s  to  50s. 
In  this  article  it  is  our  Intention  to 
deal  with 

THE  FILLING  YARN 
which  is  made  from  Egyptian  cotton 
of  li-inch    staple.    On   account  of  Its 
peculiar  nature  Egyptian  cotton  Is  es- 


616 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


pecially  adapted  for  filling  yarns  and 
it  is  a  general  custom  to  make  the 
filling  yarns  of  this  kind  of  cotton,  al- 
though it  is  not  done  in  all  styles  of 
fabrics,  and  while  the  filling  yarns  of 
fabrics  previously  described  might 
equally  as  well  have  been  made  out 
of  Egyptian  cotton,  still  for  some  spe- 
cial reason  the  kind  of  cotton  given  for 
filling  yarns  has  been  selected.  The 
Egyptian  bale  is  about  300  pounds 
heavier  than  the  American  bale,  so 
that  so  large  a  number  will  not  be  re- 
quired in  the  mixing,  which  may  be 
done  by  hand  or  by  the  use  of  a  bale 
breaker.  It  will  also  be  found  that 
Egyptian  cotton  is  much  more  easily 
handled  than  other  kinds  of  cotton. 
By  this  we  mean  that  it  gives  less 
trouble  to  operate  it  at  the  different 
processes.  The  mixing  should  be  made 
in  the  same  manner  as  described 
in  previous  articles.  The  cotton  for 
this  stock  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  picking  and  an  opener.  The 
beater  used  at  each  process  is  gener- 
ally the  two-bladed,  rigid  type.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
at  the  breaker  picker  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  at  the  intermediate 
picker  1,375  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  at  the  finisher  picker  1,200  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  lap  at  the  breaker  picker  is  40 
pounds  or  a  20-ounce  lap;  at  interme- 
diate picker,  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap,  and  at  the  finisher  picker,  35 
pounds  or  a  1214-ounce  lap.  The  in- 
structions given  in  previous  articles 
for  picking  should  be  followed.  At 
the  card  the  draft  for  this  stock  should 
not  be  less  than  120.  The  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
30  minutes,  and  the  speed  of  the  lick- 
er-in  should  be  about  300  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  should  be  45  grains  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be  not  more  than  500  pounds. 
The  setting  points  should  be  set  to 
the  same  gauges  as  given  in  last  ar- 
ticle, while  the  particulars  given  for 
grinding,  cleaning,  stripping  .and  oil- 
ing that  have  already  been  given  for 
the  same  length  of  staple  of  American 
stock  may  be  used.  Egyptian  cotton  is 
ea&Uy  combed   and,  -  as  one  overseer 


puts  it,  might  be  combed  with  a  rake; 
still  considerable  care  should  be  giv- 
en to  it  to  see  that  it  is  properly  done. 
The  particulars  for  sliver  lap  machine, 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  six-head  comb- 
er for  an  8i-inch  lap  are  as  follows: 
Sliver  lap  machine  doubles  14  into  1 
and  weight  per  yard  of  lap  is  295 
grains;  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  the 
doubling  is  6  into  1,  the  weight  per 
yard  being  260  grains;  at  the  comber 
the  doubling  is  6  into  1,  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  is  47  grains.  The  per- 
centage of  waste  taken  out  at  the 
comber  for  this  stock  for  fabric  nam- 
ed is  16.  Use  settings  and  turnings 
given  in  a  previous  article. 

THE  COMBER  SLIVER 
is  next  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  weight  per  yard  at  the 
front  being  70  grains  per  yard  with 
doublings  of  6  into  1  at  each  process. 
L^se  either  metallic  or  leather-top  cov- 
ered rolls,  this  stock  running  equally 
well  on  each.  At  the  slubber  the  sliv- 
er is  made  into  .50  hank  roving  and 
from  here  it  passes  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  being  as  follows:  First 
intermediate,  1  hank;  second  interme- 
diate, 3  hank,  and  flne  frame,  10  hank. 
The  twist  gear  used  at  each  process 
should  be  one  tooth  smaller  than  that 
used  for  the  same  hank  of  roving 
made  from  American  cotton.  Watch 
the  rolls,  both  top  and  bottom,  to  see 
that  they  are  properly  set.  After  leav- 
ing the  fine  frame  the  roving  may  be 
either  mule  or  ring  spun,  sometimes 
one  and  sometimes  the  other  being 
preferred  for  certain  reasons.  For  this 
fabric  the  roving  is  generally  ring 
spun.  For  spinning  40s  filling  yam  of 
1  5-16-inch  staple  Egyptian  cotton  use 
a  frame  with  a  2|-inch  gauge,  1^-inch 
diameter  ring,  and  a  5% -inch  trav- 
erse, and  spindle  speed  of  8,800  rev- 
olutions per  minute. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

PEARL. 

Four  ounces  immedial  black  NRT.; 

Vz   per   cent   sulphide   sodium;    1    per 

cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  BH.;   4 

ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  1  per 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


617 


cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

FAWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.; 
4    ounces     diamineral     brown   G. ;     % 
ounce  diamine  brown  B. ;   1  pound  sal 
soda;    20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;    30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F. ; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

MYRTLE   GREEN. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  green  GG. ;    l^ 
per  cent   chrysophenine;    V2  per   cent 
benzo  fast  black;  3  per  cent  sal  soda; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Two  per  cent  tetrazo  lilac  B.;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Two  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
brown  3  G. ;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25 
per  cent   Glauber's. 

DARK  BROWN. 

Three    per    cent    diamineral    brown 

G.;    1^  per  cent  diamine  brown  M.;   1 

per  cent  diamine  catechine  B.;   2  per 

cent  sal  soda;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

WINE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.; 
%  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.;  3  per 
cent  sal  soda;   30  per  cent  Glauber's 

PIXK. 

One-half  per  cent  Erika  pink  G. ;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF.; 
%  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  NN. ;  2 
per  cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;    30  per  cent  Glauber's. 


STOP  PEG  CHECKS 

The  above  term  is  used  in  cotton 
mills  to  indicate  a  type  of  fabric  ex 
tensively  made  for  dress  goods  and 
decorative  plirposes.  In  the  dry  goods 
trade  the  goods  are  found  under  va- 
rious names. 

They  are  an  extension  of  the  type  of 
goods,  unequally  reeded  stripes,  ex- 
plained in  the  last  article,  and  are 
characterized  by  certain  yarns  in  both 
warp  and  filling,  appearing  to  stand  up 
from  the  ground  cloth  in  regular  or 
irregular  block  effects.  They  are  usu- 
ally woven  white  and  bleached  or  dyed 
as  may  be  required. 

This  article  is  really  supplementary 
to  the  last  one,  the  points  referred  to 
there  applying  equally  as  well  here. 

A  check  is  almost  always  formed  by 
a  crossover  effect  in  the  filling  in  con- 
nection with  a  distinguishing  stripe  in 
the  warp.  If  the  effect  warp  way  is 
not  as  prominent  or  more  prominent 
than  the  effect  filling  way,  a  barry  pat- 
tern is  produced,  objectionable  in  al- 
most all  classes  of  textile  fabrics. 

In  stop  peg  checks  the  effect  warp 
way  is  formed  by  crowding  some  of 
the  ends  and  weaving  them  in  a  differ 
ent  manner  from  the  others,  as  in  un- 
equally reeded  stripes.  The  effect  fill- 
ing way  is  formed  by  interlacing  the 
yarns  in  a  certain  manner,  say  plain 
for  a  certain  number  of  picks,  ther 
changing  the  order  of  interlacing  to 
another  weave,  say  a  filling  sateen, 
for  a  definite  number  of  picks. 

When  weaving  the  plain  section,  the 
take-up  motion  of  the  loom  works  in 
the  ordinary  manner,  whereas  when 
weaving  the  filling  satin  section  it  is 
disconnected,  as  required,  so  that  more 
picks  will  be  inserted  in  a  given 
space. 

The  device  used  for  disconnectinf 
the  take-up  motion  is  usually  connect- 
ed to  one  of  the  levers  of  the  dobby 
?nd  called  into  action  by  pegs  placed 
in  the  pattern  chain;  hence  the  term 
stop  peg  checks. 

A  friction  let-off  is  preferrable  to  a 
positive    lef-off    motion    for    this    clas 
of  goods.    Fig.  1   illustrates  an  exam- 
ple of  the  simpler  type,  consisting  o' 


618 


A  COTTON  J'ABmcS  GLOSSARY 


sections  of  plain,  warp  sateen  and  fill 
ing  sateen.  The  analysis  of  the  sam- 
ple under  consideration  shows  the  fol- 
lowing data:  Warp,  60s;  filling,  90s: 
cloth  width,  27.5  inches.  In  the  plain 
sections   there  are,   in   proportion,   72 


Fig.   1. 

ends  and  72  picks  per  inch.  The  av 
erage  number  of  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  is  114  each. 

The  warp  layout  for  one  pattern  is 
as  follows: 

Dents, 


Ends. 
24 

30  D    ^   o   enas  per  ueiit 

24  12   =   2  ends  per  dent 

30  5=6   ends  per  dent 


ents. 

12  =  2  ends  per  dent 
5=6  ends  per  dent 


108      34 

One  warp  only  has  been  used. 
The  harness  draft  is  shown  at  Fig. 


17 


18 


16 


4  times.  5  times.         4  times.         5  times. 

Fig.  2. 

The  chain  draft,  exclusive  of  sel- 
vage, is  shown  in  Fig.  3.  In  this  fig- 
ure marks  \  correspond  to  the  plain 
sections  in  the  cloth;  dots  correspond 
to  the  warp  satin  sections  in  thf 
cloth;  circles  correspond  to  the  filling 


Fig.  3. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


619 


satin  sections  in  the  cloth;  crosses 
correspond  to  the  filling  satin  sections 
in  the  cloth  where  the  same  cross  over 
the  ends  crowded  In  the  reed,  this  is 
a  filling  satin  with  two  picks  in  a 
shed;  marks  /  correspond  to  the 
warp  satin  sections  in  the  cloth  where 
the  same  cross  over  the  picks  form- 
ing filling  satin  with  the  otherwise 
plain  ends;  solid  marks  indicate  stop 
pegs. 

The  warp  satin  sections  are  woven 
two  picks  in  a  shed  when  the  othe 
sections  of  ends  are  weaving  filling 
satin.  On  these  picks  the  take-up  mo 
tion  is  out  of  connection  on  20  out  of 
30  picks,  the  entire  30  picks  occupying 
only  as  much  space  as  10  picks  in  the 
plain  sections. 

The  positions  of  the  stop  pegs  can- 
not always  be  determined  before  the 
cloth  is  being  woven.  When  a  change 
is  made  from  plain  to  filling  satin  it  is 
not  necessary  to  insert  stop  pegs  for 
a  few  picks  because  the  picks  go  in 
easier  in  the  filling  satin  sections. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

An  ordinary  single  box  dobby  loom 
fixed  with  device  referred  to  may  be 
used  when  weaving  these  goods.  One 
warp  only  is  required. 

Unequally  reeded  stripes  and  stop 
peg  checks  may  be  placed  in  the  nov- 
elty class,  being  in  demand  one  sea- 
son and  out  of  demand  the  next;  also 
on  account  of  varying  considerably  in 
pattern  and  quality.  As  such  they  are 
usually  woven  on  looms  fitted  up  foi 
weaving  from  two  or  more  warp 
beams. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  stop  peg  checks  are 
made  in  mills  of  the  second  and  tnird 
divisions  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  counts  of  yarn  used 
for  this  fabric  differ  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  fabric  desired,  and  fo* 
the  carding  and  spinning  particularr 
we  will  consider  the  sample  to  bf 
made  up  of  60s  warp  and  90s  fiUin- 
yarns.  Both  of  these  counts  of  yarn 
will  be  combed,  the  warp  yarn  being 
made  from  li-inch  Allen  or  peeler 
cotton  and  the  filling  yarn  from  either 


Egyptian  of  l^^-inch  staple,  or,  as  i; 
more  general,  from  Sea  Island  cot- 
ton of  1%-inch  staple.  The  processes 
used  for  the  Sea  Island  cotton  wil' 
first  be  described,  and  as  the  processes 
for  li-inch  American  cotton  have  al- 
ready been  described,  only  those  points 
that  differ  from  those  already  explain- 
ed will  be  given.  In  mixing  Sea  Island 
cotton  a  great  deal  of  care  should  be 
taken  to  see  that  all  bales  put  intc 
the  mixture  staple  the  same.  At  the 
mixing  bins  tlie  good  sliver  and  picker 
waste  from  the  machines  up  to  tlie 
slubber  will  be  mixed  in.     As 

SEA  ISLAND  COTTON 

has  to  be  handled  as  little  as  possible 
on  account  of  the  ease  with  which 
neps  are  put  in,  generally  only  one 
process  of  picking  and  an  opener  is 
used,  although  some  mills  use  twc 
processes.  If  only  one  process  is  used 
the  speed  of  the  beater  should  be  just 
high  enough  to  beat  out  the  dirt,  anc' 
this  varies  according  to  the  grade  and 
quality  of  the  raw  stock.  For  a  fair 
average  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type  of 
beater  should  make  about  1,200  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  which  will  give  thf 
cotton  passing  through  about  29  beats 
or  blows  per  inch.  The  lattice  apron 
of  this  machine  is  measured  off  and 
marked  into  yard  spaces,  and  the  cot- 
ton as  it  comes  from  the  apron  is 
weighed  and  spread  evenly  over  this 
space.  The  lap  at  the  front  end  weighs 
30  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap  per  yard. 
A  variation  of  only  six  ounces  either 
side  of  standard  weight  is  allowed  for 
this  cotton.  At  the  card  the  same 
care  is  taken  to  prevent  neps,  and 
the  speed  of  certain  parts  is  changed  to 
help  this  result.  The  speed  of  the 
licker-in  is  reduced  about  50  revolu- 
tions per  minute  from  that  when 
American  cotton  is  used.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  FLATS 
is  increased  to  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  35  minutes;  the  flats 
are  also  set  to  a  No.  10  gauge  instead 
of  a  No.  12,  as  compared  with  Amer- 
ican cotton.  The  cylinder  and  doffer 
are  only  stripped  twice  a  day,  but 
the  card  wire  is  always  kept  sharp 
and  in  perfect  condition.  The  weight 
of  the  silver  at  the  front  is  45  grains 


620 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


per  yard,  and  the  production  for  a 
week  of  60  hours  should  not  be  over 
400  pounds  per  week.  The  sliver  is 
next  taken  to  the  sliver  lap  machine 
or  in  some  cases  a  drawing  frame  is 
used  first  and  a  sliver  lap  machine 
afterward.  If  the  former  method  if 
used,  the  weight  of  the  lap  should  be 
about  230  grains  per  yard,  the 
doublings  being  14  into  1  for  an  83- 
inch  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  6  into  1,  the  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  being  22f 
grains  per  yard.  If  a  drawing  frame 
is  used  after  the  card,  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  is  not  used,  and  the  weight  of 
lap  at  the  sliver  lap  machine  should 
be  220  grains  per  yard.  The  laps  at 
both  the  ribbon  and  sliver  lap  ma- 
chines should  be  sized  once  a  day.  The 
laps  are  next  put  up  at  the  comber 
and  doubled  according  to  the  num- 
ber of  heads  it  contains,  either  six 
or  eight.  The  per  cent  of  waste  taken 
out  at  this  machine  for  this  stnck  va- 
ries according  to  the  overseers'  ideas, 
but  a  good  average  per  cent  is  22. 

THE    WASTE    PERCENTAGE 

should  be  taken  from  six  different 
combers  every  day.  Keep  the  rolls 
well  varnished  and  other  parts  well 
polished  and  as  free  from  dirt  as  pos- 
sible. Watch  the  piecing  and  also  for 
single.  Keep  your  setting  points  to 
gauge  and  time.  The  sliver  at  this 
machine  weighs  35  grains.  This  sliver 
is  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing  frames,  the  revolutions  per 
minute  of  front  roll  being  320,  the 
doublings  6  into  1  at  both  processes, 
and  the  weight  of  sliver  at  the  finish- 
er being  60  grains  per  yard.  Follow 
instructions  given  for  drawing  frames 
in  previous  articles.  The  sliver  at  the 
drawing  frame  should  be  sized  4  times 
a  day,  and  a  variation  of  only  one 
grain  per  yard  allowed.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  next  put  up  to  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .80  hank  roving,  after 
which  it  is  put  through  three  process- 
es of  fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at 
each  being  as  follows:  First  interme- 
diate, 2.25  hank;  second,  5  hank,  and 
fine,  18  hank.  At  the  fine  frames  the 
roving  is  sized  once  a  day.  The  usual 
care    that    has    been   ipreviously    ex- 


plained should  be  given  to  all  parts 
of  the  fly  frames,  and  in  addition  cho 
top  leather  rolls  of  the  slubber  shouM 
be  varnished.  It  is  best,  but  not  al- 
ways convenient,  to  have  the  slubber 
rolls  used  of  a  little  larger  diameter 
than  when  other  cottons  are  used. 
This  is  on  account  of  the  length  of  the 
staple,  to  help  prevent  "licking."  The 
roving  is  next  spun,  either  a  ring 
frame  or  mule  being  used,  generally 
the  latter.  If  a  ring  frame  is  used,  the 
gauges  should  be  as  follows:  For  90s 
yarn  from  this  stock,  114-inch  diam- 
eter ring,  5-inch  traverse,  31  turns 
per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of  7,400. 
After  being  conditioned,  the  yarn  is 
ready  to  use.  For  the  warp  yarn  use 
the  particulars  given  in  the  article  on 
dhooties,  except  that  the  yarn  is  not 
twisted.  A  good  size  mixture  for  slash- 
er is  as  follows;  Water,  100  gallons, 
potato  starch,  54  pounds;  Yorkshire 
gum,  2  pounds;  white  soap,  li/^  pounds. 


SUSPENDER  WEBBING 

Suspender  webbing  is,  as  the  name 
implies,  used  for  suspenders.  It  is  of 
two  types,  elastic  and  nonelastic.  The 
nonelastic  type  is  made  into  suspen- 
ders in  connection  with  elastic  straps 
connected  to  the  buckles.  An  ad- 
vantage claimed  for  this  webbing  is 
that  there  is  no  friction  on  the  cloth- 
ing at  the  shoulders,  the  rubber  at  the 
front  and  back,  on  the  part  between 
the  buttons  and  the  buckles,  taking 
care  of  variable  tensions  caused  by  the 
different  movements  of  the  body. 

Being  subjected  to  hard  usage,  the 
goods  are  made  firm  in  the  loom,  of 
strong  materials.  They  are  of  vary- 
ing grades  and  qualities.  In  width 
they  vary  from  1  to  If  inches. 

The  analysis  of  a  cotton  webbing  of 
a  cheap  grade  shows  the  following 
data:  warps,  117  ends  of  2-40s  cotton 
for  face  and  edges;  50  ends  of  2 -20s 
for  back;  24  ends  of  2-30s  for  binders 
or  stitchers;   25  ends  of  42  rubber. 

There  are  90  picks  of  2-16s  filling 
per  inch,  finished.  As  these  goods  are 
held  tight  in  the  loom  on  account  of 
the  rubber  warp,  60  picks  per  inch 
only  would  be  put  in  the  loom,  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


621 


webbing  contracting  50  per  cent  in 
length  after  being  woven. 

The  width  of  the  web  is  1  7-16 
inches. 

The  full  layout  is  shown  in  the  har- 
ness draft,  Fig.  1,  the  various  warps 
being  drawn  as  follows:  binder  ends 
through   harness   No.    1,   rubber    ends 


Goods  like  the  one  under  considera- 
tion would  be  woven  on  a  positively- 
acted  side  cam  loom,  actuated  by  in- 
terchangeable sectional  cams.  The 
cams  are  12  picks  to  the  round  or  re- 
peat. One  shuttle  only  is  required  for 
each   web. 

For  more   elaborate  goods  a  dobby 


+ 

7      7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

-   ^-_. .^ 

6 

G 

6 

G 

6 

6 

6 

5    5    5 

5 

5      5 

5 

5 

5      5 

5 

5        6 

6   a 

4    4    4 

4 

4 

4      4 

4 

4 

4      4 

4 

4    4    4 

S    3 

3      3 

3 

3 

3      3 

3 

3 

3       3 

3    3    3 

2 

I 

2 
1 

2 

1 

■2 
1 

2 

1 

'2 

1 

2 

Fig.  1. 


through  harness  No.  2,  face  and  edge 
ends  through  harnesses  Nos.  3,  4  and 
5,  and  the  back  ends  through  har- 
nesses Nos.  6  and  7.  The  daggers  in- 
dicate where  the  ends  are  divided  by 
the  reed,  the  entire  web  occupying  27 
dents  of  a  reed  containing  17  dents 
per  inch. 

Each  binder  end  works  between  two 
back  ends.  To  add  bulk  to  the  fab- 
ric, coarse  ends  are  sometimes  insert- 
ed in  the  center  of  the  cloth;  these 
are  drawn  through  the  same  harnesses 
as  the  rubber. 

The  chain  draft  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
By  comparing  Figs.  1  and  2  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  web  is  a  multiple  or  com- 
pound fabric,  all  face  ends  being 
raised  when  back  picks  are  inserted, 
all  back  ends  depressed  when  face 
picks  are  inserted,  all  rubber  ends 
raised  on  back  picks  and  depressed  on 
face  picks,  thereby  being  between  the 
face  and  back  fabrics. 

The  binders  tie  the  fabrics  into  one 
compound  fabric. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Suspender  looms  are  made  with 
more  or  less  attachments  according  to 
requirements.  They  are  capable  of 
running  upward  of  40  webs  at  the 
same  time,  so  that  production  of  one 
loom  is  considerable.  The  shuttles, 
one  for  each  web  in  the  simpler  type, 
are  actuated  on  the  rack  and  pinion 
principle  in  a  positive  manner.  On 
some  goods,  where  silk  filling  is  used 
for  figuring  purposes,  three  or  four 
shuttles  are  required  for  each  web. 


or  jacquard  head  is  used  in  connec- 
tion with  the  cams,  the  latter  work- 
ing the  harnesses  for  the  ground,  and 
the  head  motion  actuating  the  figuring 
yarns. 


■DaDBDU 

naaiBOB 

■DGBBDn 
DBBBBBQ 
BDBBDCn 
DBBBBDB 
BaBDBDa 
DBBBBBD 
BODBBOa 
DBBBBDB 
BGBBGDD 
1  2  3  4  6  <  T 

Fig.  2. 


Separate  warp  beams,  or  spools,  ar« 
required  for  each  different  count  of 
warp   yarn,   for   each   web. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Like  other  fabrics  that  have  been 
already  described  in  these  articles,  the 
yarns  of  which  the  webbing  for  sua-' 
penders  is  made  vary  as  to  count,  but 
in  this  special  case  there  is  a  wide 
range  of  the  stock  used  and  the 
question  is  as  to  whether  it 
shall  be  carded,  or  carded  and 
combed.  The  higher  grades  of  web- 
bing are  composed  of  the  longer  sta- 
pled cottons,  even  the  longest  staple 
Sea  Island  being  us-ed  for  the  very  fine 
grades,  this  cotton  being,  of  course, 
combed,  and  from  this  down  to  the 
short  stapled  carded  cotton.  The  sam- 
ple that  has  been  taken  for  this  article 
is  of  medium  grade  and  is  composed 
of  four  different  counts  of  yarn,  which 
are   as   follows:    2-40s    warp   for  face 


S22 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


and  ends  and  2-20s  for  the 
back;  2-oOs  is  used  for  the 
binder  and  2-16s  for  the  filling  yarns. 
The  2-40»  and  2-30s  yams  would  be 
constructed  from  the  same  staple  an4 
stock  or  American  cotton  of  1  5-16 -inch 
staple,  and  the  2-20s  and  2-16s  would 
be  made  from  peeler  cotton  of  1%- 
Inch  staple.  The  picking  particulars 
that  have  been  given  in  previous  ar- 
ticles may  be  used  for  these  counts 
and  staple  cottons  may  be  used,  the 
following  exceptions  being  noted.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  differ- 
ent processes  for  the  1  5-16-incli 
stock  is  as  fqllows:  breaker  picker,  40 
pounds  oral6-ounce  lap;  intermediate 
picker,  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap  and  at  the  finisher  picker  35  pounds 
or  a  1214-ounce  lap.  For  the  1%-inch 
stock  the  weights  would  be  as  fol- 
lows: 40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  at 
the  breaker,  39  pounds  or  a  12'^-ounce 
lap  at  the  intermediate  and  39  pounds 
or  a  141/^ -ounce  lap  at  the  finisher 
picker.  The  beater  speeds  used  would 
be  the  same  for  both  cottons,  i.  e.,  1,- 
500  revolutions  per  minute  at  breaker 
and  intermediate  and  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute  at  the  finisher,  which  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  the  finisher 
picker  about  42  beats  or  blows  per 
inch.  At  the  card  the  draft  of  the 
1  5-16  inch  stock  should  be  not  less 
than  100  and  the  speed  of  the  licker- 
In  350  revolutions  per  minute,  while 
the  flats,  110,  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution  every    50    minutes.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 

should  be  about  60  grains  per  yard 
and  the  production  750  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  draft  for  the 
1%-lnch  stock  should  not  exceed  95 
and  the  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  about 
375  revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
flats  make  a  revolution  every  55  min- 
utes. The  weight  of  the  sliver  should 
be  65  grains  per  yard  and  the  produc- 
tion 850  to  900  pounds  per  week.  For 
all  other  particulars  see  previous  ar- 
ticles. The  main  point  of  difference 
in  the  setting  points  would  be  at  the 
llcker-In  and  feed  plates,  which  should 
be  set  to  accommodate  each  staple. 
Th«  slivers  are  next  put  through  three 


processes  of  drawings,  the  doublings 
at  each  process  being  6  Into  1. 

The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  should  be  70  grains  per 
yard  for  both  staples  and  the  speed  of 
the  front  roll  350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Either  metallic  or  leather-cov- 
ered top  rolls  may  be  used,  but  should 
favor  the  metallic  rolls  for  these 
stocks.  The  drawings  should  be  sized 
four  times  a  day,  and  kept  within  two 
grains  either  side  of  standard  weight. 
Watch  your  stop-motions  and  also  the 
drawing  as  It  Is  being  delivered,  to 
see  that  no  cut  work  is  made,  for  this 
causes  a  lot  of  trouble  in  subsequent 
processes.  All  drawing  as  it  is  de- 
livered in  full  cans  at  the  finisher 
drawing  should  be  marked  with  chalk 
so  that  It  may  always  be  distinguished 
from  the  other  staples,  kinds  and 
weights.  These  slivers  are  then  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into 
.50  hank  roving,  after  which  they  are 
made  into  the  following  hank  roving 
at  the  different  processes  named:  For 
the  2  •40s  yarn,  first  intermediate,  2 
hank,  and  second,  8  hank;  for  2-30s 
yarn,  first  Intermediate,  2  hank,  and 
second,  6  hank;  for  2-20s  yarn,  firs; 
intermediate,  1.25  hank,  and  second,  4 
hank;  for  2-16s  yarn,  first  intermedi- 
ate, 1,  and  3  at  the  second  intermedi- 
ate. These  rovlngs  ohould  be  sized 
once  a  day,  six  bobbins  being  sized 
from  each  different  hank. 

WATCH  YOUR  TWIST 
to  see  that  you  are  putting  in  neither 
too  much  nor  too  little,  and  also  your 
tension  to  see  that  you  are  not  putting 
too  great  a  strain  on  the  yam  and 
thus  making  strained  or  unevenly 
drawn  roving.  The  layers  per  inch  are 
also  another  important  point,  and  for 
the  hank  rovlngs  given  above  a  good 
number  Is  as  follows:  For  the  3  hank, 
20  layers  per  Inch;  for  4  hank,  25  lay- 
ers; 6  hank,  33  layers,  and  for  8  hanks. 
38  layers.  The  top  leather  rolls  should 
always  be  kept  In  good  condition  and 
If  not  should  be  sent  to  be  recovered. 
In  putting  In  new  rolls  always  put  two 
new  rolls  on  the  same  arbor  and  not, 
as  Is  sometimes  done,  one  old  roll  and 
one  new  roll.  Keep  rolls  well  oiled 
and  also  the  spindle  stops,  which 
should  be  oiled  at  least  once  a  month. 


k   66TTON  FABRIC^  GLOSSARY 


m 


The  roving  Is  next  ipun  on  gplnnlng 
frames  into  40s,  SOa,  203  and  168,  re- 
spectively. The  particulars  for  these 
irames,  with  the  exception  of  the  168, 
have  been  previously  given.  For  spin- 
ning 16i  filling  use  a  frame  having  a 
2% -inch  gauge,  li/^-inch  diameter  ring 
and  a  6^-inch  traverse  with  a  spindle 
speed  of  7,000  revolutions  per  minute 
of  the  spindles.  The  yam  la  then  put 
through  several  special  processes  dif- 
ferent from  the  machinery  used  for 
regular  cloth  warp  and  filling,  when  It 
is  ready  for  the  suspender  loom. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
SKY   BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  Erika  pink  G.;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;    10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B.;   Vz  per  cent  diamine  green  G.; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 
One  per  cent  chrysophenine;   2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
RED. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

SCARLET. 
Three  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B.; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

SLATE. 
One   per   cent   diamine   black   BH.; 
^  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A.;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's   salt. 

BROWN. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  brown  B. ;   ^ 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A.;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;    20  i>er  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  dark  bluu 
B. ;    1  per  cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent 
Glauber's. 


BLACK. 
Five     per    cent     oxydlamin©    black 
NA.;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's;    after-treat  with   formalde- 
hyde. 

BRONZE. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  bronze  G.;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

ECRU. 
Two  ounces   diamine   catechine  G. ; 
Vz  pound  sal  soda;    10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 


INDIAN  DIMITY 

Under  the  head  of  dimity  are  a  va- 
riety of  cotton  fabrics  characterized 
by  stripes  and  cords,  in  both  warp  and 
filling  way  of  the  fabric,  but  more  com- 
monly the  stripes  and  cords  are  In 
the  warp  only. 

Dimity  originally  was  understood  to 
mean  a  stout  cotton  fabric  with  raised 
stripes,  cords,  crimps  or  ridges  in  the 
warp  way  of  the  fabric.  These  fabrics 
were  further  ornamented  by  being 
printed  in  various  colors  lengthwise  of 
the  fabric,  in  small  patterns.  This 
fabric  was  principally  used  for  furni- 
ture covering  and  for  like  purposes. 

Under  the  head  of  Indian  dimity  is  a 
class  of  fabrics  somewhat  similar  to 
the  dimity  described  above,  but  made 
with  finer  yarn  and  used  principally  as 
a  dress  fabric. 

The  stripes  and  cords,  however,  con 
stitute 

THE  CHARACTERISTIC  FEATURE 
of  the  fabric;  the  fabric  without  these 
stripes  and  cords  would  in  all  respects 
resemble  a  fair  quality  of  lawn,  ba- 
tiste or   muslin. 

The  cords  in  an  Indian  dimity  ap- 
pear in  the  fabric  at  regular  intervals 
across  the  entire  width.  These  cords 
may  be  effected  by  working  two  or 
more  ends  on  the  same  harness  or  by 
using  a  coarser  thread  than  the  body 
of  the  warp.  The  cord  usually  inter- 
laces with  the  filling  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  ground;  that  is,  on  the 
plain  weave  order.  In  addition  to  these 
cords,  the  fabric,  after  it  is  woven,  Is 
printed  In  stripes  in  the  direction  of 


624 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


the  warp,  with  high  colors.  The  pat- 
terns of  these  stripes  are  usually  con- 
ventionalized floral  figures.  These 
floral  stripes  may  alternate  with  an 
appropriate  geometrical  figured  stripe. 
In  the  latter  stripe  the  colors  are  usu- 
ally more  subdued,  thus  producing 
contrast  and  variety,  a  very  desirable 
feature  in  a  dress  fabric,  especially  so 
in  the  cheaper  grades  of  printed  dress 
fabrics. 

Varying  the  quality  of  cotton  fabrics 
is  such  a  general  practice  and  is  car- 
ried to  such  an  extent  that  some  fab- 
rics lose  their  individuality;  a  fabric 
such  as  an  Indian  dimity,  that  has 
features  in  addition  to  its  construc- 
tion, has  considerable  scope  for  varia- 
tion, consequently  we  find  various 
grades  and  styles  of  Indian  dimity — 
some  in  which  the  cords  are  much 
farther  apart  than  in  others,  or  suf- 
ficiently spaced  to  allow  the  stripe  to 
be  printed  between  the  raised  cords, 
and  others  in  which  the  cords  are  very 
close  together,  with  but  two  or  three 
ends  between  each  cord.  (See  weave 
Fig.  1.)  In  printed  fabrics  of  this 
character  where  the  printed  patterns 
are  in  the  form  of  a  stripe,  the  cords 
should  not  be  too  prominent,  or,  if 
they  must  be  prominent,  the  printed 
stripe  should  be  of  such  a  design  that 
the  outline  is  of  an  indefinite  charac- 
ter, so  that  if  any  inaccuracy  occurs  in 

^■aaaaBDaa 
ODaaaaDaoB 
mmamaumama 
DDaaaaaaoa 
aaoBoaaaaa 
DDBDaaaBDa 
BBDaaBaaaa 

Fig.  1. 

DODnDDaaau 

nnnaaDDDBa 
nanDDDDBDa 

DDDaDBBDnn 

DDDDBaaDna 
DDDBDDnnoa 
DDBDDDnnna 
aaaDDQaDDa 
Fig.  2. 

aaanDBaana 
□aaaBDcDBa 

Tie.  3. 

the  printing,  that  is,  if  the  cloth  does 
not  run  perfectly  straight  through  the 
printing  machine,  and  the  printed 
stripe  interlaces  too  much  with  the 
cord,  it  appears  as  if  the  printed  stripe 
was  promiscuously  placed  on  the  fab- 
ric. The  neatest  patterns  are  those  in 
which  the  ends  are   not  very  promi- 


nent and  the  stripe  is  printed  over 
them  at  apparently  regular  intervals. 
Fig.  2  represents  the  drawing-in  draft; 
Fig.  3  the  reeding  plan. 

ANALYSIS   OF  FABRIC. 
Width  of  warp  in  reed,  30^  inches; 
width    of    fabric    finished,    29    inches; 
ends  per  inch  finished,  94;    1,300  x  2 
reed;   ends  in  warp,  2,724. 

Dressing:      1-2  E.  white  In    1    hed. 

1   E.  wiiite. 

1   E.  wlilte. 

1   E.  white. 

4-5 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 
per  cent;  warp  yarn,  1-80;  filling  yarn, 
1-100.    Picks  per  inch,  76. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Light-weight  cotton  fabrics,  such  as 
an  Indian  dimity,  may  be  woven  on 
any  light  built  single  box  loom.  The 
principal  consideration  should  be  giv- 
en to  the  speed  of  the  loom,  as  fabrics 
of  this  class  require  large  production 
in  order  to  amply  compensate  the 
manufacturers  for  making  them.  High- 
speed looms  would  answer  for  weav- 
ing this  class  of  goods. 

FINISHING. 

The  fabric,  after  it  is  woven,  Is 
bleached,  then  slightly  stiffened  by 
immersing  in  a  light  solution  of  size. 
The  size  may  be  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients:  flour,  wax  and  gel- 
atine. After  the  sizing  the  fabric  is 
dried,  then  slightly  sprinkled  with 
water,  then  run  through  a  rotary 
press,  after  which  follows  the  print- 
ing process.  The  fabric  is  then  again 
slightly  pressed  ii  order  to  take  out 
the  creases  which  it  contracted  dur- 
ing the  printing;  then  it  is  made  up 
into  laps  or  rolls. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  make  up  Indian 
dimity  are  made  in  mills  of  the  third 
division,  as  given  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. The  fabric  is  generally  made 
from  peeler  or  Sea  Island  cotton  of 
from  1  7-16  to  1%  inch  staple.  The 
sample  under  description  is  composed 
of  1-lOOs  filling  yarn  and  l-80s  warp 
yarn  and  for  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider both  yarns  to  be  made  from  1%- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


62S 


inch  staple,  Florida  Sea  Island  cotton. 
Particular  care  should  be  paid  to  the 
mixing  of  this  cotton  and  all  bales 
not  up  to  grade  and  staple  should  not 
be  used.  At  the  mixing  bin  the  good 
sliver  from  the  machines  up  to  the 
slubber  should  be  mixed  with  the  raw 
stock.  Too  much  waste  should  not  be 
mixed  on  account  of  making  the  lap 
fleece.  As  this  cotton  is  of  a  long 
staple  it  is  very  easy  to  put  neps  into 
it,  and  thus  too  great  a  speed  of  the 
beater  of  the  picker  should  not  be 
allowed.  The  beater  should  be  run 
just  fast  enough  to  take  out  the  dirt. 
This  speed  varies,  on  different  stocks 
of  the  same  length  of  staple,  from 
800  to  1,350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. A  good  average  speed  of  a  two- 
bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater  for  the 
breaker  is  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, and  for  the  finisher,  1,025  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  latter  speed 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through  it 
about  29  beats  or  blows  per  inch.  Sea 
Island  cotton  is  generally  put  through 
only  two  processes  of  pickers  and 
sometimes  does  not  even  pass  through 
an  opener,  although  this  is  an  excep- 
tion rather  than  a  rule.  At  the  break- 
er picker  the  lap  at  the  front  end 
weighs  30  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap. 
These  are  put  up  and  doubled  4  into 
1  at  the  finisher  picker,  and  the  total 
weight  of  lap  at  this  machine  is  29% 
pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  A  varia- 
tion of  one-half  pound  either  side  of 
standard  weight  is  allowed.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card.    The 

DRAFT   OF  THIS  MACHINE 

for  this  stock  varies  according  to  the 
idea  of  the  one  in  charge,  but  should 
not  be  less  than  125.  The  top  flats 
should  be  clothed  with  No.  36s  wire 
and  should  make  one  complete  revolu- 
tion every  35  minutes.  The  speed  of 
the  licker-in  should  be  less  than  that 
used  for  shorter  and  coarser  cottons 
and  should  not  exceed  300  revolutions 
per  minute,  as  it  is  claimed  that  this 
speed  is  high  enough  to  tear  it  apart 
and  clean  it  thoroughly  and  still  not 
put  neps  into  it.  The  doffer  should  be 
of  as  large  a  diameter  as  possible  and 
should   be  clothed  with  No.  368  wire 


fillet.  The  cylinder  fillet  should  be 
No.  34s.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  about  37  grains  and  the 
production,  per  week  of  60  hours,  350 
pounds.  Clean,  strip,  and  grind  cards, 
as  has  been  already  stated  in  previous 
articles.  The  sliver  is  then  taken  to 
the  sliver  lap  machine  and  for  an  8%- 
inch  lap  is  doubled  14  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of  this 
machine  is  230  grains  per  yard  of  lap. 
Watch  your  stop-motions  on  this 
machine.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into 
1,  although  some  mills  make  a  heavier 
lap  at  the  sliver  lap  machine,  and  only 
double  5  into  1  at  the  ribbon  lap  ma- 
chine. The  weight  per  yard  of  lap  at 
the  front  of  this  machine  is  210  grains. 
The  rolls  of  the  sliver  lap  machine  for 
this  stock  are  set  as  follows:  Front  to 
middle,  1%  inches;  middle  to  back, 
1%  inches  and  for  the  ribbon  lap, 
front  to  second,  1%  inches;  second  to 
third,  1%  inches;  third  to  back,  1% 
inches.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  either  6  or  8 
into  1,  according  to  the  number  of 
heads  that  the  comber  contains,  which 
we  will  consider  to  be  6.  The  sliver 
from  this  machine  weighs  35  grains 
per  yard;  25  per  cent  waste  is  taken 
out  and  the  speed  of  the  machine  is 
90  nips  per  minute.  Use  setting  and 
timing  previously  given  for  this  grade 
of  stock.  The  cotton  is  next  put 
through   two  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 

the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  350 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  being  60  grains  per  yard.  It 
is  an  important  point  to  prevent  all 
singles  and  doubles  at  this  machine 
and  to  help  make  perfect  drawing 
all  stop-motions  should  be  in  perfect 
condition.  Another  important  part  to 
watch  is  the  setting  of  the  rolls.  For 
this  stock  a  good  rule  is  as  follows: 
Front  to  second,  1%  inches;  second 
to  third,  13  inches;  third  to  back,  li 
inches.  These  settings  may  be  used 
at  both  drawings,  although  if  settings 
are  closed  up  1-16  of  an  inch  between 
each  roll  at  the  finisher  drawing  it 
will  not  injure  the  staple. 


<>26 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSAftY 


The  top  leather  rolls  of  the  sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap,  comber,  and  drawing 
frames  should  be  kept  in  perfect  con- 
dition and  always  well  varnished.  A 
stock  of  new  and  newly  varnished 
rolls  should  always  be  kept  on  hand 
and  the  rolls  on  the  machine  examined 
frequently  to  see  that  they  are  per- 
fect. Good  recipes  for  varnish  have 
been  previously  given.  Parts  of  the 
machines  to  which  it  is  not  a  general 
custom  to  give  much  notice  are  'the 
clearers.  Now  they  are  impor- 
tant and  should  be  looked  after 
carefully  to  see  that  they  are  doing 
their  duty  properly.  This  refers  to 
both  top  and  bottom  clearers  on  all 
machines  on  which  they  are  used. 

At  the  slubber  the  drawing  is  made 
into  .80  hank  roving.  At  this  machine 
watch  the  top  rolls,  the  build  of  the 
bobbin,  the  lay,  twist,  tension  and 
traverse  motion.  For  this  stock  the 
front  rolls  are  generally  varnished 
and  if  it  is  in  a  mill  made  to  run  this 
length  of  stock  the  top  and  bottom 
front  rolls  are  of  a  larger  diameter  so 
that  the  stock  will  not  lick  up  so 
easily.  The  roller  settings  for  the 
slubber  are  as  follows:  front  to  middle, 
1%  inches;  middle  to  back,  1%  in- 
ches. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING 

is  then  put  through  three  more  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  the  hank  roving 
made  at  each  process  being  as  fol- 
lows: First  intermediate,  2.25;  second, 
5,  and  fine,  18  hank  for  warp  yarn 
and  20  hank  for  filling  yarn.  The 
warp  yarn  is  ring  spun  on  a  frame 
having  a  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  514- 
Inch  traverse,  39.08  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  9,600  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled 
and  warped  and  then  run  through  a 
slasher,  after  which  it  is  drawn  in 
and  is  then  ready  to  weave.  A  good 
slasher  size  for  this  yarn  is  as  fol- 
lows: Water,  lOo  gallons;  potato 
starch.  70  pounds;  tallow,  7  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  3  pounds;  white  soap, 
2  pounds.  Boil  two  hours  and  let 
stand  10  hours  before  using.  Keep 
agitator  running  and  keep  size  almost 
at  a  boiling  point  when  sizing.  The 
yarn  for  filling  is  generally  mule  spun. 


after  which  it  is  conditioned  and  then 
is  ready  for  weaving. 

Colors  for  Printing. 
PALE  VIOLET. 
Prepare  ten  gallons  of  printing  pastts 
with  one  pound  chrome  violet  M  for 
printing;  60  pounds  gum  solution  1. 
1;  two  pounds  glycerine;  33 1^  pounds 
water.  Heat  to  about  160  degrees  F., 
allow  to  cool,  then  add  2^/^  pounds 
formic  acid,  90  per  cent;  1  pound  ace- 
tate chrome,  32  degrees  Tw. 

DEEP  VIOLET. 

For  10  gallons  paste,  10  pounds 
chrome  violet  M  for  printing;  50 
pounds  starch  tragacanth  65  :  1,000; 
34  pounds  water.  Heat  to  about  160 
degrees  F.,  allow  to  cool;  add  2% 
pounds  formic  acid,  90  per  cent;  3% 
pounds  acetate  of  chrome,  32  degrees 
Tw. 

BLUE. 

For  10  gallons  paste,  liVz  pounds 
chrome  fast  blue  F  R  for  printing;  3i^ 
pounds  chrome  violet  M  for  printing; 
45  pounds  starch  tragacanth  thicken- 
ing; 12  pounds  water;  heat  to  about 
160  degrees  F.;  allow  to  cool  then  add 
three  pounds  hyraldite  A,  dissolved  in 
3%  pounds  water;  one  pound  form- 
aldehyde, 40  per  cent;  2^^  pounds 
formic  acid;  15  pounds  acetate  of 
chrome;  steam  through  Mather  & 
Piatt.  The  pieces  are  then  left  exposed 
to  the  air  for  several  hours,  passed 
through  a  weak  chrome  bath,  washed, 
soaped,  rinsed  and  dried. 
SKY  BLUE. 

Two  and  one-half  ounces  alizarine 
blue  S  P;  2^^  pints  gum  thickening;  1 
quart  water;  i/^  pint  acetate  chrome 
32  degrees  Tw.  Print  and  steam  and 
soap. 

PEA   GREEN. 

Two  pints  alizarine  green  D  G 
paste;  1%  gallons  tragacanth  thick- 
ening; 1  gill  acetate  of  chrome  32  de- 
grees Tw. ;  2  quarts  water.  Print 
steam  and  soap. 

PINK. 

Four  ounces  rhodamine  6  G;  ^ 
pint  water;  I14  quarts  tragacanth 
thickening;   14  pint  acetic  acid,  9  de- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


627 


grees    Tw.;     V^    pint   acetate    chrome, 
32  degrees  Tw.  Print,  steam  and  soap 

RED. 

One  pound  brilliant  Rhoduline  red 
B  D;  1  gill  glycerine;  2  pints  water; 
1%  pounds  acetic  acid,  9  degrees  Tw. ; 
1  gallon  gum  water,  1  :  1 ;  2  pints 
acetic  acid,  tannic  acid  solution,  1  :  1. 
Print,   steam  one   hour,   soap. 

PURPLE. 

Five  ounces  methyl  violet  2  R;  2^/^ 
quarts  water;  3  pints  acetic  acid,  9 
degrees  Tw.;  ly^  gallons  gum  water 
1:1;  1%  pints  acetic  acid,  tannic  acid 
solution  1  :  1.  Print,  steam  one  hour, 
soap. 


GRENADINE 

Grenadine  is  a  fine  gauzy  dress  fab- 
ric made  with  various  combinations  of 
materials,  such  as  silk  and  cotton,  silk 
and  wool,  or  cotton  and  wool,  and 
some  of  the  cheaper  grades  are  made 
with  all  cotton  yarns. 

The  fabric  is  plain  and  loosely  wo- 
ven and  invariably  ornamented  by 
stripes,  sometimes  in  both  warp  and 
filling,  but  usually  in  the  warp  only. 
These  stripes  may  be  of  an  ordinary 
satin  or  uneven  sided  twill  weave.  In 
the  better  grades  of  grenadine  the 
ornamentation  is  more  intricate,  that 
is,  the  figuring  is  of  such  a  character 
that  it  requires  a  special  loom,  such 
as  a  lappet  or  swivel  loom.  If  the 
figuring  is  to  be  effected  by  means  of 
an  extra  filling,  the  swivel  loom  Is 
used.  With  the  use  of  this  loom  the 
figuring  is  in  the  form  of  spots  or 
set  figures  over  the  entire  fabric. 

The  grenadine  of  which  the  analysis 
will  follow,  is  a  cotton  warp  and  silk 
filling  fabric,  ornamented  with  a  zig- 
zag warp  stripe,  effected  by  the  lappet 
attachment  to  the  loom. 

This  method  of  forming  stripes  on  a 
fabric  was  in  use  prior  to  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  swivel  loom.  The  method 
of  operation  in  this  class  of  weaving 
consists  of  passing  an  Independent  -set 
of  threads  through  a  series  of  needles 
set  In  a  frame.  This  frame  Is  situated 
between  the  reed  and  shuttle  race  way 
of  the  lay. 


This  frame  Is  arranged  so  as  to  slide 
horizontally  to  and  fro.  This  sliding 
is  regulated  by  the  pattern  chain,  and 
the  needles  are  lowered  at  the  proper 
time,  so  as  to  allow  the  figuring 
threads  to  interlace  with  the  ground 
cloth,  by  passing  the  filling  over  the 
figuring  threads,  thereby  binding  the 
figuring  threads  into  the  ground  struc- 
ture of  the  fabric.  The  movements  of 
the  needles  may  be  timed  so  as  to  In- 
terweave with  the  ground  cloth  at 
each  throw  of  the  shuttle  or  other- 
wise, as  may  be  desired.  The  figuring 
threads,  however,  must  be  on  a  sep- 
arate warp  beam  on  account  of  the 
difference  of  take-up  during  weaving. 

Diagram,  Fig.  1,  illustrates  the 
method  of  interlacing  the  figuring 
threads  Into  the  ground  structure  of 
the  fabric. 

This  fabric,  as  mentioned  above,  is 
of  an  openwork  texture.  The  construc- 
tion, that  is,  the  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  in  the  ground  structure  of  the 
fabric,  should  be  of  such  a  number  as 
to  make  the  fabric  firm  enough  to 
fulfill  its  purposes.  As  the  fabric  is 
used  entirely  for  dress  goods,  it  is 
subjected  to  considerable  wear.  In 
order  to  retain  its  characteristic  fea- 
ture, that  is,  transparency  or  open- 
ness of  texture,  the  ends  and  picks 
per  inch  should  be  of  such  a  number 
that  in  the  finished  fabric  the  meshes 
will  be  no  larger  than  the  diameter 
of  the  yarn  used  in  tne  fabric;  other- 
wise the  fabric  will  not  wear  satis- 
factorily. 

From  the  above  it  will  be  observed 
that  in  order  to  produce  a  fabric  that 
is  satisfactory  in  all  its  aspects,  viz., 
appearance,  feel  or  handle  and  wear- 
ing qualities,  absolute  accuracy  Is  re- 
quired in  calculating  for  the  construc- 
tion of  such  a  fabric.  Grenadine  may 
be  woven  in  the  gray,  then  dyed  any 
color  desired,  or  the  warp  may  be 
dyed  in  the  hank  and  the  filling  dyed 
after  it  is  woven  into  the  fabric.  In 
the  better  grades  these  fabrics  are 
usually  woven  with  dyed  yarns.  The 
prevailing  color  for  grenadines  is  solid 
black. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp   in   reed,   30  Inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  27.5   inches; 


628 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ends  per  inch  in  reed,  84;  ends  per 
inch  finished,  92.  Reed,  42x2;  take-up 
of  ground  warp  during  weaving,  5  per 
cent;  take-up  of  figuring  warp  during 
weaving,  12  times  the  length  of  fabric 
woven;  ground  warp,  l-60s  cotton;  fig- 
uring warp,  2-40s  mercerized  cotton. 
In  the  drawing  in,  the  ground  warp 
only  is  drawn  through  the  heddles  in 
the  harness;  the  figuring  warp  passes 
over  the  harness  into  the  eyes  of  the 
needles,  the  needles  being  in  front  of 
the   reed.     The   figuring    warp   is   not 


entirely  on  the  character  of  figure  to 
be  woven.  The  jacquard  loom  is  used 
when  the  fabric  is  to  be  ornamented 
by  large  broken  plaids,  requiring  too 
many  ends  to  be  conveniently  handled 
on  a  dobby  loom. 

FINISHING. 

The    finer    grade   of    grenadine    re 
quires  very  little  attention  as  regards 
finishing.  After  the  fabric  comes  from 
the   loom   it   is   examined   for   broken 
threads  or  picks.  The  finishing  is  prac- 


Flg.  1. 


drawn  through  the  reed,  but  is  guided 
entirely  by  the  needles. 

Filling:  I14  dram  silk,  picks,  90  per 
inch  finished. 

Fig.  .2  shows  ground  and  figure 
weave. 

Fig.  3  ground  warp  drawing-in  draft. 
LOOMS    USED. 

These  fabrics  are  woven  on  various 
looms,  various  makes  of  dobby  looms, 
lappet,  swivel  or  Jacquard,  depending 


tically  in  the  weaving.  If  the  fabric  is 
perfect  when  it  comes  from  the  loom, 
it  is  run  through  the  rotary  press,  sub- 
jected to  a  little  steaming  and  slight 
pressure,  and  then  made  up  into  laps 
ready   for  the   consumer. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  used  for  the 
warp  in  the  sample  described  above 
for  grenadine  are  l-60s  ground  warp 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


629 


and  2-40s  for  figuring  warp.  The  sta- 
ple cotton  used  for  the  ground  warp 
would  be  about  Ig-inch  for  Allen 
or  peeler  cotton,  while  that  used 
for  the  figuring  warp,  which  is 
mercerized,  would  be  made  from 
an  Egyptian  or  Sea  Island  cotton, 
which  is  especially  adapted  for  mer- 
cerizing purposes,  of  1%-inch  staple. 
The  1%-inch  peeler  cotton  would  be 


er,  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap,  inter 
mediate,  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap, 
and  at  the  finisher,  a  38-pound  or  a  13- 
ounce  lap.  For  the  Sea  Island  stock 
there  would  be  an  opener  and  two 
processes  of  pickers,  the  speed  of  a 
rigid,  two-bladed  beater  being  as  fol- 
lows: 1,300  revolutions  per  minute  at 
breaker  and  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute at  finisher;   the  weight  of  the  lap 


Fig.  2. 


put  through  an  opener  and  three  proc- 
esses of  pickers,  the  speed  of  a  two- 
bladed  beater  being  as  follows: 
Breaker,  1,500  revolutions  per  minute; 
intermediate,  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  finisher,  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  weights  of  the  lap 
for  this  fabric  would  be,  at  the  break- 


would  be  34  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap 
at  breaker,  and  at  the  finisher  30 
pounds  or  a  10% -ounce  lap.  For 
general  instructions  for  mixing  and 
picking,  use  those  that  have  been  pre 
viously  given.  At  the  card  the  partic- 
ulars used  for  the  peeler  cotton  are: 
A  draft  of  not  less  than  110,  with  a 


630 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


licker-in  speed  of  300  revolutions  per 
minute,  flats  (110)  making  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  35  minutes. 
The  speed  of  the  cylinder  is  160  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  production 
should  be  500  pounds  with  a  45 -grain 
sliver  for  60  hours  per  week. 

FOR  SEA  ISLAND  STOCK 
the  draft  should  not  be  less  than  130. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  275  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  flat  1  revolution 
in  35  minutes,  the  weight  of  sliver  40 


out  and  the  settings  and  timings  used 
are  the  same  as  those  given  in  the  ar- 
ticle on  Indian  dimity. 
VARNISH. 

Do  not  use  the  same  varnish  for  the 
sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap  and  draw  box 
rolls  and  the  leather  detaching  rolls  of 
the  comber.  For  the  latter  use  a  var- 
nish that  has  less  glue  and  a  dead  fin- 
ish, while  for  the  former  rolls  use  a 
roll  with  a  siBooth,  glossy  finish,  but 
use  a  varnish   that   does  not  peal  or 


u)nnt)nDa»'nziDTi3nGBannDaanBnnDnnnnBnnncinDaBDDnnnnnBnDDannn«annDnnng 
DDmajBaaanjaaBoannaanBnDaaaaaBJDgaQanBDDaaciaDBaaaDaaDHLjgDaagDqD 
PDnanBDaDD^nQBoaaaaDa«anaanDnBaaDQDDa«aaaoaaDBDaaDnaaBDannaaaang 
DDDaBanaDDaDBaDnaDaDBaaaaaaaBaDDaaaaBaaDaaaaBaaaaaaaBaDgaDDaDnap 
DanBaaoanaaBG laaaaaBaaanaaaBDODaaa iBaGDnanaBuaaDDGaBnagoDGDBDDDn 
DnBaDDDDnnBnDaaaaaBanaDDGGBDannanaBcmnnDDaBannaaDGBniiggaDcwQDDDg 
DBDDmnaaBGDananDBgaacmaaBDnnanaiiBacQGaaoBaGDaaanBaaacianGBnoaDuQ 
■DGDaDDDBaaaaDDaBGQaaaaaBaaaaGaDBGaaaaaDBDGGDaaaBanDaaDaBaaDaDaa 

Fig.  3. 


grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
350  pounds  per  week.  The  wire  fillet 
used  for  both  stocks  should  be  34s 
for  cylinder  and  36s  for  top  flats  and 
doffer.  Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  pos- 
sible. The  setting  points  have  been 
given  previously  for  these  stocks. 
Strip  three  times  a  day  and  grind 
each  card  at  least  a  day  every  month. 
Both  the  Sea  Island  and  the  peeler 
cottons  for  this  class  of  goods  are 
combed  and  for  this  article  we  will 
suppose  that  an  8%-inch  lap  is  used. 
For 

THE   PEELER  STOCK 

the  ends  are  doubled  14  into  1  at  the 
sliver  lap  machine  or,  as  it  is  some- 
times called,  the  small  doubler,  the 
weight  per  yard  of  the  lap  being  300 
grains,  and  at  the  ribbon  lap  or  large 
doubler  these  laps  are  doubled  6  in- 
to 1,  the  weight  of  the  lap  being  280 
grains  per  yard.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  comber  and  doubled  6  into 
1.  The  percentage  of  waste  taken  out 
is  16  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
45  grains  per  yard.  Use  settings  and 
timings  previously  given.  For  the  Sea 
Island  stock  the  weight  at  the  sliver 
lap  is  220  grains  per  yard  and  these 
laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the  rib- 
bon lap  machine,  the  weight  of  the 
lap  being  215  grains  per  yard.  At  the 
comber  the  doublings  are  6  into  1  and 
the  weight  of  sliver  is  35  grains  per 
yard;   20  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken 


crack  easily.  Always  keep  rolls  well 
varnished  and  in  good  condition.  The 
comber  sliver  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing  frames,  the 
doublings  being  8  into  1  at  the  break- 
er for  peeler  and  6  into  1  for  Sea 
Island,  while  at  the  breaker  the 
doubling  is  6  into  1  for  both  stocks. 


If  metallic  rolls  are  used  they  should 
be  spread  %  of  an  inch  farther  apart 
than  when  leather  top  rolls  are  used. 
Watch  the  stop-motions.  The  weight 
of  the  drawing  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  is  75  grains  per  yard  for  the 
peeler  and  60  grains  for  the  Sea  Island 
stock. 


A.  COTTON  PASIllCS  GLOg^ARY 


m 


At  the  slubber  the  sliver  for  60s 
yarn  is  made  up  into  .50  hank  roving, 
after  which  it  passes  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames  or  speeders, 
being  made  into  the  follow- 
ing hank  roving  at  each  process: 
1st  intermediate,  1  hank;  2d  interme- 
diate. 3  hank,  and  fine  frame,  12  hank. 
The  Sea  Island  stock  is  made  into  .70 
hank  at  the  slubber  and  ■  passes 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames, 
where  it  is  made  into  2.25  hank  rov- 
ing at  1st  intermediate  and  8  hank  at 
flnisher  frame.  Use  all  the  precau- 
tions given  in  previous  lessons  as  to 
rolls,  etc.,  and  remember  that  the  Sea 
Island  stock 

REQUIRES    LESS    TWIST 

per  inch  than  the  peeler.  The  peeler 
cotton  is  made  into  60s  hank  on  a 
warp  spinning  frame,  the  particulars 
of  which  have  been  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article,  while  the  Sea  Island  is 
made  into  40s  yarn  on  a  warp  frame 
having  a  l^/^-inch  diameter  ring  with 
a  6-inch  traverse  and  a  spindle  speed 
of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute;  this 
is  then  twisted  and  put  through  the 
mercerizing  process,  after  which  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

A  good  slasher  sizing  for  60s  yarn 
for  light-weight  cloth  is  as  follows: 
Water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  54 
pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds,  and 
white  soap,  IV^  pounds. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

Dyed  in  jig  machine. 

BLACK. 

8  per  cent  thion  black  TGC;  8  pei 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 

BLJE. 

6  per  cent  thion  blue  B. ;  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

Dye  and  rinse  well.  After-treat  with 
2  per  cent  peroxide  sodium;  8  per 
cent  sulphate  magnesia;  8  per  cent 
acetic  acid,  8  degrees  Be.  Dissolve  the 
sulphate  of  magnesia  first,  then  put 
in  the  peroxide  of  sodium  In  small 
quantities,  and  enter  the  goods;  work 


for     20     minutes  first;    then  run  the 
acetic  acid  into  the  bath,  and  gradually 
increase    the   heat   to    about    180    de 
grees  F. 

BROWN. 

4  per  cent  thion  brown  R.;  4  per 
cent  thion  brown  O.;  2  per  cent  thion 
orange  N.;  12  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
dium; 3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent 
salt. 


BRILLIANTE 


Brilliante  is  a  cotton  fabric  of  light 
or  medium  weight,  distinguished  by 
small,  detached  figures,  usually  of  geo- 
metrical or  simple  character,  arranged 
on  a  plain  ground.  The  figures  are 
formed  with  the  filling,  which  is  soft 
twisted. 

The  object  sought  is  to  cover  the 
warp  with  the  filling  as  much  as  pos- 


W 


i^lf'^^i-f  l^frr  ^^^  l^fM 


Fig.   1. 

sible,  both  in  the  ground  and  figure. 
It  is  obtained  by  using  warp  yarns 
considerably  finer  than  those  used  for 
the  filling  in  the  same  piece,  aided  by 
the  slack  twist  in  the  filling. 

The  goods  are  used  principally  for 
shirtwaists    and    dress    goods. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  typical  brilliante 
fabric,  the  analysis  of  which  shows 
the  following  data:  88  sley,  66  picks. 
50s  warp,  30s  filling;  finished  width, 
26%  inches.  The  pattern  is  complete 
on  100  ends  and  84  picks.  The  figures 
are  arranged  in  irregular  positions,  8 
in  a  repeat. 


63S 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


One  of  the  figures  is  illustrated  in 
Fig.  2;    marks  represent  filling. 

Like  many  other  cotton  fabrics, 
goods  under  this  name  are  made  in  va- 
rious grades,  variations  in  the  counts 
of  yarns  necessitating  corresponding 
variations   in  the  counts  of  cloth.    A 


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DSBaaaaloiiB*BBBa[:'i:ioDca 
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naaBBaaaaaDBaaDDDDDDGa 
nmaBBBBBaaoBDDDBDcpcn 
DDaaaaBaaaBannnBBBDDpn 
DcaaaDaaaaaooDBBBBBDcq 

DDDDanDBBBanDBBBBBBBDn 

DnnnaanGBauoBBBBBBBjan 
DaaDnnaDnL.inaaBBBBBBjBB 
□aDanoaDnDaaBBBBBBBjBD 
DDaanDDDDannnaBBBBBBDD 
nnDDDaiinnnDGnGBBBBappa 
DDDnnDnDDDaDDnaBBapppa 

DDDDaODDDnDDDDUDBDCCna 
Fig.  2. 


fabric  under  consideration,  shown  in 
Fig.  3,  has  a  filling  so  coarse,  as  com- 
pared with  the  warp,  that  it  has  the 
appearance  of  a  poplin  ground.  This 
is  a  dobby  pattern,  the  spots  being 
arranged  in  a  4-end  sateen  or  broken 
crow  order.  Each  spot  is  made  by  the 
filling  covering  nine  ends  on  two 
picks,  as  in  Fig.  4.  The  float  of  the 
second  pick  of  each  alternate  spot  is 
moved  over  two  ends. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Most  brilliante  patterns  necessitate 
the  use  of  a  jacquard  head.  A  machine 
of  300  or  400  hooks  gives  ample  scope 
for  designs.    The  goods  being  of  firm 


Fig.   3. 

structure,  with  all  the  ends  taking  up 
practically  evenly,  they  could  be  wo- 
ven most  economically  on  a  light  run- 
ning single  box  loom  fitted  with  a 
double   lift,    single   cylinder  jacquard. 


On3  warp  and  one  filling  only  are  re- 
quired. 

There  being  but  little  scope  for  de- 
veloping other  than  small  designs  of 
this  type,  on  dobby  looms,  they  are 
made  to  but  little  extent  on  these 
looms.  Experience  has  taught  that 
patterns  like  Fig.  3  require  too  many 
harnesses  on  a  dobby  loom  for  weav- 
ing plain  to  the  best  advantage. 

FINISHING. 

These  goods  are  usually  subjected 
to  the  English  or  French  nainsook  fin- 
ishes, mercerized  or  printed.  By  the 
English  finish  the  fabric,  after  it 
leaves  the  loom,  is  boiled  off,  then 
bleached,  after  which  it  is  softened  by 
immersing  in  a  light  solution  of  glyc- 
erine, or  cocoanut  oil,  and  flour  or 
farina,  after  which  it  is  dried  by  pass- 
ing over  heated  cylinders,  then  run 
through  a  rotary  press  with  very  light 
pressure.  In  the  French  finish,  after 
the  fabric  is  bleached  it  is  stiffened  by 
immersing  in  a  solution  of  size,  com- 
posed of  the  following  ingredients: 
flour,  wax  and  gelatine,  after  which 
the  fabric  is  dried,  then  slightly  sprin- 
kled with  water,  then  run  through  the 
calender,  which  completes  the  finish- 
ing process. 

The  fabric  illustrated  in  Fig.  1  has 
undergone  the  mercerizing  process  of 
finishing,  having  been  mercerized  in 
the  piece.  Brilliante  is  a  type  of  goods 
in  which  the  essential  qualities  of  the 
pattern  are  improved  by  the  mercer- 
izing   process. 

When  they  are  printed,  the  printed 
patterns  are  secondary  to  the  weave 
effects  and  usually  consist  of  small 
detached  sprig  or  fioral  effects  ar- 
ranged   a   great   distance   apart. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  brilliante  is  com- 
posed are  made  in  mills  of  the  second 
and  third  division,  as  given  in  a  previ- 
ous lesson.  The  yarns  used  in  the 
sample  under  consideration  are  50s  for 
warp  and  30s  for  filling.  Both  of  these 
yarns  are  combed  and  made  from  the 
same  grade  and  staple  of  cotton.  The 
filling  is  coarser,  and,  according  to  es- 
tablished rules,  should  be  made  of  a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


633 


shorter  length  of  staple,  and  this 
would  be  true  if  it  were  not  for  the 
fact  that  in  order  to  produce  certain 
effects  in  the  cloth  this  yarn  is  re- 
quired to  have  a  softer  twist  than  that 
generally  employed  for  this  count  of 
yarn.  The  cotton  used  may  be  a  peeler 
of   114-inch   staple. 

THE  MIXING 
would  be  done  as  described  in  previous 
articles,  the  good  sliver  waste  from 
the  machines  up  to  the  slubber  being 
thrown  into  the  mixing  bin.  If  the 
equipment  of  machinery  does  not  in- 
clude a  roving  waste  machine,  a  good 
way  to  mix  the  roving  waste  is  as  fol- 
lows: Run  the  roving  waste  through 
a  picker,  allowing  it  to  run  on  the 
floor  at  the  front,  and  not  formed  into 
a  lap  as  is  generally  done;  this  is  then 
gathered  up  and  scattered  over  the 
mixing.  This  is  a  very  good  method, 
but  is  not  generally  used  on  account 
of  the  pickers  having  all  they  can  do 
to  keep  up  with  the  cards.  This  class 
of  work  is  put  through  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  pickers.  The  pick- 
ers, if  supplied  with  a  rigid  type  of 
beater  having  two  blades,  have  the 
following 

SPEEDS 
at  each  process:  Breaker  picker,  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute':  the  fan  speed 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute;  interme- 
diate picker,  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute;    fan   speed,    1,050    revolutions 


Fig.  4. 

per  minute;  finisher  picker,  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  fan  speed,  1,100 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  weights 
of  the  lap  at  the  different  processes 
are  as  follows,  the  doubling  at  each 
process  after  the  breaker  picker  be- 
ing 4  into  1 :  breaker  picker,  total 
weight,  40  pounds;  weight  per  yard, 
16  ounces;  intermediate  picker,  39 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap,  and  finisher 
picker,  36  pounds  or  a  1214-ounce  lap. 
Of  course  the  laps  should  be  kept  of 
as  even  a  weight  as  possible,  a  varia- 
tion of  only  8  ounces  either  side  of 
the  standard  weight  being  allowed  at 
the  finisher  picker.  These  laps  are 
put      up      at      the      card,      and    for 


this  fabric  the  draft  shoud  not 
be  less  than  110.  The  licker-in 
speed  should  be  300  revolutions  per 
minute.  Flats  should  make  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  38  or  40  min- 
utes. The  weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver 
at  front  is  50  grains  per  yard  and  pro- 
duction for  a  week  of  60  hours  is  550 
pounds.  Set  doffer  to  cylinder  to  a 
5-l,000th-inch  gauge;  licker-in  to  cylin- 
der to  a  7-l,00Oth-inch  gauge.  Set  cylin- 
der screen  at  licker-in  to  12  gauge,  at 
center  to  a  34  gauge,  and  at  front,  V4. 
inch. 

Set  back  plate  to  cylinder  at  10 
gauge  at  bottom  and  at  22  at  top;  lick- 
er-in screen  to  licker-in,  3-16ths  inch 
from  licker-in.  Set  licker-in  knives 
top  knife  at  12  gauge,  bottom  knife 
at  5  gauge;  if  only  one  knife,  set  at 
5  gauge.  Set  feed  plate  to  cylinder 
according  to  length  of  staple.  This 
is 

AN  IMPORTANT  POINT 
many  times  overlooked  by  men  in 
charge.  The  general  rule  is  to  set 
at  this  point  the  same  for  all  lengths 
of  staple.  This  is  wrong,  because  in 
short-staple  cotton  the  feed  plate 
should  be  set  closer  than  for  long 
stock.  For  example,  suppose  the  feed 
plate  is  set  to  licker-in  at  7  gauge 
for  1%-inch  stock  and  we  will  say  that 
this  gives  the  distance  from  bite  of 
feed  roll  to  licker-in  114  inches.  Now 
we  change  to  1%-inch  Sea  Island 
stock.  If  we  do  not  reset  the  feed 
plate  we  are  almost  sure  to  break  the 
fibre,  and  if  the  cotton  is  stapled  at 
the  front  of  the  card  and  compared 
with  the  staple  at  the  back,  it  will 
be  seen  that  this  is  what  is  being 
done.  Of  course  the  proper  remedy 
for  this  is  to  get  a  feed  plate  with  the 
proper  shaped  nose  for  each  length  of 
staple,  but  it  is  not  always  possible 
to  do  so;  the 

NEXT  BEST  REMEDY 
is  to  set  the  feed  plate  farther  back  or 
to  slow  down  the  speed  of  your  licker- 
in,  so  that  the  fibres  will  not  be  struck 
away  from  the  feed  roll  so  quickly. 
If  the  setting  at  this  point  is  the  same 
for  all  staples  and  gives  a  variation 
of  V^-inch  length  in  staple  at  front  and 
back,  note  result.  If  the  staple  breaks. 


634 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


it  is  weakened  so  much..  Set  top  flats 
to  12  gauge  at  back  and  to  10  gauge  at 
other  setting  points.  Set  front  strip- 
ping plate  to  22  gauge  at  bottom  and 
at  top  set  from  a  7  to  a  12  gauge, 
according  to  the  strip  wanted. 

At  the  sliver  lap  machine  the  doub- 
ings  are  14  into  1  for  an  8% -inch  lap, 
the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  being  295 
grains.  These  are  doubled  6  into  1  at 
ribbon  lap,  the  weight  being  275  grains 
per  yard.  At  the  comber  these  laps 
are  doubled  either  six  or  eight  into 
one  according  to  the  number  of  heads. 
For  a  6-head  comber  the  sliver  at  coil- 
er  should  weigh  45  grains  per  yard; 
speed  of  comber,  90  nips  per  minute; 
percentage  of  waste,  15;  and  drafi 
about  27.50.  Use  same  setting  and 
timing  as  given   in  previous   articles. 

At 

THE  DRAWING  FRAME 

two  processes  are  used,  the  doublings 
being  6  into  1  at  each  process.  The 
speed  of  front  roll  at  each  process 
should  be  400  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  should  be  70  grains 
per  yard.  At  the  slubber  this  is  made 
into  .60  hank  roving  and  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  process  for  the  50s 
warp  .being  2.50  at  first  intermediate, 
and  10  hank  at  second  process.  F\Dr 
the  30s  the  hank  roving  at  the  first 
intermediate  is  2  and  at  the  second 
process  6  hank.  Look  out  for  the 
points  that  have  been  explained  in 
previous  articles.  At  the  spinning 
room  the  roving  for  warp  yarn  is  spun 
into  50s  under  the  following  condi- 
tions: diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  6  inches;  twist  per 
inch,  31.80;  spindle  speed,  10,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  filling  yam 
is  mule  spun,  with  2.75  times  the 
square  root  of  count  for  standard 
twist. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

NAVY   BLUE. 

Four  per  cent  naphtamine  blue  2  B.; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 


PINK, 
One-half    per    cent   Erika    pink    G.; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;   1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue 
F  F.;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

PEA   GREEN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue;  ^ 
per  cent  chrysophenine;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's;    1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half   ounce    naphtamine    brown 
N. ;   iy2   ounces  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N. ;    10   pounds    salt;    1    per   cent   lal 
soda. 

YELLOW. 
One  per  cent  direct  yellow  G  cone; 
20  per  cent  salt;   1  per  cent  sal  soda. 
RED. 
Three  and  one-half  per  cent  direct 
scarlet  B   cone;    25   per  cent  salt;    2 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

BROWN. 
Pour  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  R 
G.;    30  per  cent  salt;    2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

GREEN. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  green  G. ;   ^ 
per   cent   diamine  fast  yellow   B.;    25 
per    cent    salt;    3   per   cent   sal    soda. 


BOOK  MUSLIN 

Book  muslin  is  a  textile  term  that  Is 
somewhat  of  a  misnomer,  not  having 
any  connection  with  fabrics  used  for 
book  coverings.  The  goods  are  used 
very  extensively  for  stiffening  and 
lining  clothing  and  for  the  foundatiou 
work  of  ladies'  hats;  they  are  distin- 
guished more  by  the  feel  or  finish 
than  by  appearance.  They  vary  in 
appearance  from  plain  weave  to  small 
checks.  Being  made  more  for  utility 
than  effect,  fancy  weaves  are  not  call- 
ed for  or  necessary.  One  of  the 
principal  weaves  used  is  a  leno,  one 
end    crossing    one. 

An  analysis  of  a  book  muslin  sam- 
ple shows  the  following  data:  Finish- 
ed width,  32  inches;  248  yarn  in  both 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


636 


warp  and  filling,  54  ends  and  45  picks 
per  inch. 

The  weave  is  shown  in  Fig.  1,  being 
on  16  ends  and  8  picks.  The  general 
effect  is  shown  by  8  ends  and  8  picks, 
the  next  8  ends  differing  only  in  the 
plain   weave   being   reversed.      Fig.   2 


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aaaaaaaaaBaBDcaD 

Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 

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Fig.  3. 

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Fig.  4 

shows  the  harness  draft  and  Fig.  3, 
the  reed  draft.  The  warp  yarns  aver- 
age 8  ends  in  5  dents,  there  being  16 
ends  in  10  dents  per  pattern.  The  4 
ends  working  as  1  are  drawn  through 
one  heddle.  The  chain  draft  is  shown 
at  Fig.  4,  the  working  of  the  first 
two,  or  selvage,  harnesses  being 
plain. 

Stop  pegs  are  not  required,  the  3 
picks  in  1  shed  coming  into  contact 
with  each  other. 

Another  book  muslin  fabric  under 
consideration  contains  the  same 
counts  of  yarns  as  the  other  sample. 
The  count  of  this  cloth  is  43x38,  and 
the  width  35  inches  finished.  The 
weave  is  plain. 

Book  muslins  are  usually  woven 
grey  and  piece  dyed  in  solid  colors. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Any  of  the  three  classes  of  weaves 
mentioned  may  be  woven  on  single 
box,  fast,  light  running  looms.  The 
sample  analyzed  would  require  a  dob- 
by  loom.  The  leno  and  plain  weave 
samples  could  be  woven  best  on  cam 
looms.     One  beam  only  is  required. 

FINISHING. 
Before  finishing,  the  goods  feel  v«ry 
sleazy.    The  effect  obtained  by  flush- 
ing is  to  change  this  cloth  into  a  very 


stiff,  board-like  fabric.  Goods  for  lin- 
ings are  sized  the  least;  those  for  stif- 
fening and  millinery  purposes  are  siz- 
ed heavily. 

After  being  woven,  the  cloth  is 
washed,  dyed,  dried,  sized,  dried  and 
folded  as  desired.  No  burling,  singe- 
ing or  shearing  is  required,  as  perfect 
cloth  is  not  absolutely  essential  and 
the  glue  or  size,  combined  with  the 
pressing,  lays  the  loose  fibres. 

In   sizing,  the  cloth  passes  through 
the  size  box  and  on  to  the  drying  cyl- 
inders.    If  a  glazed  finish  is  required, 
it  is  subjected  to  pressure  by  the  heat 
ed  rollers  of  the  calender  machine. 

The  sizing  substances  are  usually 
glue,  gum,  flour  and  size,  of  variable 
proportions,  mixed  with  water  to  the 
desired  consistency.  The  weight  of 
size  in  a  piece  will  vary  from  about 
5  to  40  per  cent  of  the  entire  weight. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  make  up  book  mus- 
lin are  made  in  mills  of  the  flrst  and 
second  divisions.  For  this  class  of  fab- 
ric a  short-staple  medium  grade  of 
cotton  is  used.  The  general  staple  is 
about  one  inch.  In  the  better  quali- 
ties of  this  fabric  only  the  raw  stock 
is  used  in  the  mixture,  but  the  poorer 
qualities  contain  a  certain  percentage 
of  waste,  either  comber  or  card  being 
used  according  to  the  quality  required. 
F*or  this  article  we  will  consider  that 
the  mixture  is  made  up  without  waste. 

THE   MIXING 

for  this  class  of  cotton  should  be  as 
large  as  possible  because  production 
is  looked  to  more  than  quality,  but  the 
quality  should  be  as  good  as  possible. 
The  cotton  is  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of  the  opener 
should  be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute, 
the  fan  on  this  machine  making  350 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  opener 
is  generally  directly  connected  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  may  be 
provided  with  either  a  pin,  or,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  a  carding  beater,  or 
a  rigid  type  having  either  two  or  three 
blades.  If  a  two-bladed,  rigid  beater, 
the  speed  should  be  1,500  revolutions 


636 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


per  minute;  if  a  three-bladed  beater 
the  speed  should  be  reduced  to  1,000 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  fan  speed 
should  be  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  draft  of  this  picker  should  be 
about  1.85.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

at  the  front  should  be,  total,  40 
pounds;  weight  per  yard,  16  ounces. 
These  laps  are  put  up  and  doubled  4 
into  1  at  the  intermediate  picker.  The 
beater  of  this  picker,  if  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type,  makes  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute  with  a  fan  speed  of  1,050  revo- 
lutions per  minute  and  a  draft  of  2.80. 
The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is 
38  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of 
this  beater,  if  two-bladed,  should  be 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute;  fan 
speed,  1,100  revolutions  per  minute; 
draft,  2.80;  weight  of  laps  at  front,  39 
pounds  or  a  14V^-ounce  lap.  The 
stock  passing  through  this  machine 
with  these  speeds  receives  about  41 
blows  or  beats  per  inch.  At  the  card 
the  speed  of  the  licker-in  varies  from 
300  to  350  revolutions  per  minute,  ac- 
cording to  make  of  card.  The  speed 
of  flats  is  1  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes  (110  flats). 

THE  CARDS 

should  be  stripped  at  least  three 
times  a  day  and  the  doffer  should  be 
stripped  an  extra  time  if  a  very  large 
production  is  being  turned  off.  Use  a 
coarse  wire  fillet  for  both  doffer  and 
cylinder  for  cards  on  this  stock,  and 
use  settings  given  for  indigo  prints 
in  a  previous  article.  The  draft  of 
the  card  should  not  exceed  100  for 
this  class  of  goods.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be  65  grains  per 
yard  and  the  production  850  pounds 
for  a  week  of  60  hours.  Grind  cards 
as  previously  stated.  The  card  sliver 
is  next  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  doublings  being  6  into 
1  at  each  process.  The  speed  of  the 
front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute for  leather  top  rolls  and  375  for 
metallic  top  rolls.  Metallic  top  rolls 
will  be   found    to    be    an    advantage 


on  this  class  of  stock,  but  should  be 

looked  after  to  see  that  they  are  prop- 
erly set.  Generally  speaking,  metallic 
rolls  should  be  set  3-16ths  of  an  inch 
farther  apart  than  leather  top  covered 
rolls.  If  metallic  rolls  are  used,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  they  are 
the  same  distance  apart  their  entire 
length,  because  if  they  have  sprung, 
cut  work  will  be  the  result.  The  flutes 
of  these  rolls  should  be  kept  clean  and 
the  bearings  well  oiled  and  clean  or 
bad  results  will  be  obtained.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of 
both  breaker  and  finisher  drawings 
should  be  72  grains  per  yard.  Draw- 
ings should  be  sized  four  times  a  day. 
The  drawing  should  be  put  up  to  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .50  hank  rov- 
ing and  put  through  two  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES. 

At  the  first  intermediate  it  is  made 
into  2  hank  roving  and  at  the  second 
5  hank.  Of  course  these  hank  rovings 
will  depend  a  great  deal  on  the  way  a 
room  is  balanced  and  the  amount  o' 
production  to  be  turned  off.  Some- 
times two  different  stocks  of  the  same 
length  of  staple  will  be  run  togetner 
at  the  slubber  and  first  intermediate 
frames  that  are  going  to  be  made 
into  two  different  counts  of  yarn.  This 
is  often  done  in  rooms  where  there  are 
not  enough  frames  to  have  each  frame 
run  a  different  stock,  so  that  it  may  be 
necessary  to  alter  the  draft  and  hank 
roving  of  one  or  both  stocks  to  the 
best  advantage  of  each.  Thus  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  hanks  and  drafts 
given  here  may  be  used  as  a  founda- 
tion from  which  to  work,  and  used  if 
each  machine  is  using  this  one  staple, 
and  grade  and  kind  of  cotton.  The 
roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning  frame 
and  made  into  24s  yarn.  At  the  warp 
frame  use  a  2-inch  diameter  ring,  7- 
inch  traverse,  23.27  twist  per  inch  and 
9,400  revolutions  per  minute  spindle 
speed.  For  a  filling  frame  use  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6 1/^ -inch  traverse, 
15.9  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  7,6)0  revolutions  per  minute. 
A  heavy  sizing  is  used  for  this  class 
of  goods. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


637 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
Dyed  on  the  jig  machine. 

BLACK. 
Five   i>er  cent  oxydiamine   black  A 
T. ;   3  per  cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent 
salt. 

BROWN. 

Five  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;   1 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
black  B  H.;  2  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B. ;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per 
cent  salt;  make  up  a  starch  liquor  with 
10  ounces  dextrine;  1  gallon  water; 
mix  cold.  Add  a  little  color  to  match 
shade  required,  and  boil  well  for  one 
hour.  Starch  on  mangle  and  dry  on 
the  tenter  frame. 


MULL 


Mull  may  be  defined  as  a  thin,  plain 
woven  fabric,  of  which  there  are  sev- 
eral varieties,  as  Swiss,  India,  starch- 
ed, China  or  silk.  The  China  or  silk 
mull  is  a  union  fabric,  usually  with 
cotton  warp  and  silk  filling.  This  is 
the  finest  fabric  of  the  above-men- 
tioned varieties  and  is  used  exclusively 
for  dress  goods. 

The  Swiss  and  India  mulls  are  fine 
soft-bl-eached  cotton  fabrics,  principal- 
ly used  for  dress  goods. 

THE  STARCHED   MULL 
is   somewhat  coarser   than   the   Swiss 
or  India   mull  and   is  used   principal- 


DiDBnana 


ID! 


IGBG 


DBGI 

■DBaaoHa 
oaaaaaaB 
■aaaaoBD 

DBGB[jB.aB 
■OBaBDBa 

Fig.  1. 
Design. 


DDDDCDOB 
DDODCDBn 
DaDDDBDa 

DanDBDon 
Dcamoana 

DDBDDOCD 

DBDDnaaD 

BDDDDaQD 

Fig.  2. 
Draft. 


ly  for  stiffening  in  various  parts  of 
a  dress,  usually  dresses  of  unwashable 
material,  and  is  also  used  as  a  founda- 
tion for  ladies'  silk  trimmed  hats,  cur- 
tains, etc.  Starched  mull  is  a  plain, 
loosely  woven  fabric  and  is  stiffened 
in  the  finishing  process  by  sizing. 

These  various  qualities  of  mull  dif- 
fer  in    point   of   texture    considerably 


from  one  another;  the  silk  mull  is  in 
point  of  texture  twice  as  fine  as  some 
grades  of  cotton  mull. 

The  China  or  silk  mull  and  also  the 
cotton  mull  used  for  dress  purposcb 
are  characterized  by  their  softness. 
This  feature  is  partially  brought  about 
by  the  materials  used  and  partially  by 
the  finish  which  the  fabric  receives. 
The  silk  mull  requires  less  attention 
in  finishing,  as  the  materials  used  in 
the  construction  of  the  fabric,  the  silk 
filling  in  particular  and  the  high  grade 
of  the  cotton  warp,  are  in  themselves 
conducive  to  producing  a  soft  fabric. 

In  the  cheaper  grades  of  cotton  mull, 
wherein  the  coarser  counts  of  yarn 
are  used,  the  warp  yarn  must  first  be 
well  sized  so  as  to  withstand  the  ten- 
sion and  strain  incurred  during  the 
process  of  weaving.  This  sizing, 
while  it  strengthens  the  warp  yarn, 
imparts  to  the  fabric  a  harsh  handle 
or  feel,  due  to  the  ingredients  used  in 
the  size,  which  may  be  wheat,  flour, 
farina  or  sago  and  a  small  quantity  of 
softening  materials,  usually  tallow  or 
wax.  The  softening  materials  are 
necessary  in  order  to  make  the  yarn 
pliable;  otherwise  it  would  be  inclined 
to  be  too  brittle  to  weave  readily. 
After  the  fabric  is  woven  and  ready 
for  the   finisher,   it  is  subjected  to   a 

WASHING  PROCESS, 

which  takes  out  all  the  sizing  mate- 
rials in  the  warp  yarn,  after  which 
the  fabric  is  subjected  to  a  combina- 
tion of  sizing  materials  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  softening  the  fabric.  The 
above  process  applies  more  particular- 
ly to  the  all-cotton  fabrics. 

This  class  of  fabrics — mull — requires 
very  little  ingenuity  on  the  part  of 
the  designer  to  produce,  there  being 
no  ornamental  features  or  fancy 
weaves.  The  goods  are  plain  woven, 
depending  for  their  beauty  or  attrac- 
tiveness entirely  on  the  finishing.  Mull 
made  for  dress  goods  is  of  fine  tex- 
ture, and  is  finished  very  soft,  while 
the  fabric  intended  for  lining  or  dec- 
orative purposes  is  much  coarser  in 
texture  than  the  dress  fabric,  and  is 
stiffened  in  the  finishing  and  common- 
ly known  as  starched  mull. 


638 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  goods  are  usually  woven  in  the 
gray  and  the  bulk  of  them  are  hnished 
pure  white  or  bleached,  although  these 
fabrics  may  be  obtained  in  almost  any 
etlor  desired. 

The  China  or  silk  mull  is  usually, 
like  the  all-cotton  fabric,  finished  un- 
dyed.  In  the  former  case,  however, 
the  cotton  yarn  is  bleached  in  the 
hank.  The  silk  filling  used  in  this  fab- 
rij  is  raw  silk,  viz.,  tram  silk.  This  is 
soit  and  very  pliable  and  lends  itself 
readily  to  the  production  of  a  soft  fab- 
ric. The  filaments  of  raw  silk  cannot 
be  spun  into  a  thread  like  wool  and 
cotton,  as  they  have  no  peculiarities 
of  surface  that  correspond  to  the 
scales  on  the  surface  of  the  wool  fi- 
bres; the  wool  fibres,  when  spun  into 
•  a  thread,  are  arranged  so  that  these 
scales  are  opposed  to  one  another  as 
much  as  possible  and  thereby  inter- 
lock and  hold  fast  to  one  another,  and 
the  more  the  threads  are  spun,  the 
closer  they  engage  one  another  and 
in  consequence  produce  a  stronger 
thread.  The  peculiarities  of  the  cotton 
f:bre  are  its  twists.  The  cotton  fibre 
under  the  microscope  appears  as  a 
thin  flat  tube  or  ribbon,  considerably 
twsted;  these  twists  in  the  fibres  give 
strength  to  the  thread  by  interlacing 
with  one  another  somewhat  on  the 
order  of  the  scales  in  the  woolen 
threads.  In  silk,  however,  the  filaments 
can  only  be  made  into  a  thread  by 
twisting  a  number  of  the  filaments 
into  fine  threads,  and  these  threads 
are  again  twisted  until  a  thread  of 
the  desired  count  is  obtained.  Fol- 
lowing is  an 

ANALYSIS 

of  a  cotton  and  silk  fabric: 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  28%  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  27  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  76;  ends  per 
inch  finished,  80;  ends  in  warp,  includ- 
ing selvages,  2,200;  reed,  1,400x2; 
warp  yarn,  l-60s  cotton. 

Filling,  one  dram  silk,  tram;  54 
picks. 

ANALYSIS  OF  STARCHED  MULL. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  33 14  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  30  inches; 
ends   per  inch  in  reed,   36;   ends  per 


inch  finished,  40;  ends  in  warp  includ- 
hig  selvage,  1,220;  reed,  1,300x1; 
warp  l-50s  cotton. 

Filling,   l-54s   cotton;    36   picks. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Any  ordinary  single  box  loom  may 
be  used  for  weaving  this  fabric.  Th« 
speed  of  the  loom  is  the  most  impor- 
tant consideration  if  the  selection  of 
loom  be  optional;  the  finer  grades  of 
mull  are  usually  woven  on  eight  har- 
nesses, straight  draft,  while  the  coars- 
er grades  are  confined  to  four  har- 
nesses, drawn  in  the  following  order: 
1,   3,   2,   4. 

FINISHING. 

Mull  made  for  dress  goods  Is  of  a 
very  fine  texture  and  softened  in  the 
finishing.  This  is  accomplished  by 
immersing  the  fabric  in  a  solution  of 
oily  matters,  the  ingredients  being 
composed  of  a  liberal  percentage  of 
glycerine  or  cocoanut  oil  and  a  very 
small  quantity  of  farina.  Chloride  of 
magnesium  may  be  used  with  good  re- 
sults. This  is  a  very  powerful  soft- 
ener, as  well  as  a  weighting  material, 
and  has  a  great  affinity  for  water,  and 
has  the  power  of  attracting  moisture 
to  the  cloth  in  which  it  is  used.  This 
attraction  of  moisture  really  constitut- 
es the  softening  effect.  The  above 
method  of  softening  applies  in  partic- 
ular to  all-cotton  mull.  In  the  silk 
filling  goods  the  fabric  is  usually  only 
boiled  off,  then  run  through  a  rotary 
press. 

For  stiffening  the  fabric,  the 
goods,  after  they  are  bleached,  are  im- 
mersed in  a  solution  of  size  composed 
of  flour,  tallow,  and  gum  arable;  this 
stiffening  is  done  in  front  of  the  dry- 
ing cylinders,  the  goods  running 
through  the  sizing  trough  on  to  the 
cylinders,  which  completes  the  finish- 
ing. 


Bleaching  Particulars. 

Boil  with  4  degrees  Tw.  caustic 
soda  in  a  kier  for  12  hours,  and  run 
through   washing   machine. 

Give  a  second  boil  with  4  degrees 
Tw.  caustic  soda. 

Wash  through  machine  and  run 
through  solution  of  chloride  of  lime  at 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


«S9 


%  degree  Tw.  Place  in  bin  for  two 
hours.  Pass  through  a  solution  of  sul- 
phuric acid  %  degree  Tw.  Pass 
through  washing  machine  till  all 
trace  of  acid  is  eliminated. 

Starching  Particulars. 

One  gallon:  4  ounces  dextrine,  4 
ounces  cornstarch.  Boil  for  one  hour 
and  starch  through  mangle. 

Dry  on  the  tenter  frame. 


LINON 


Linon,  usually  termed  India  linon 
or  India  linen,  is  a  fine,  closely  woven 
plain  fabric  well  known  for  its  excel- 
lent wearing  and  washing  qualities.  It 
is  made  from  combed  cotton  yarns  of 
long-staple  stock. 

It  is  made  in  various  widths,  from 
27  to  36  inches,  and  in  slightly 
varying  constructions  and  qualities. 
The  goods  are  made  to  resemble  as 
closely  as  possible  fine  linen  fabrics. 
The  cloth  structure  is  firmly  made  in 
the  loom. 

The  analysis  of  a  good  quality  India 
linon  fabric  shows  the  following  data: 
Ends  per  inch,  108;  picks  per  inch, 
110;  finished  width,  36  inches;  warp, 
90s;  filling,  110s.  Each  selvage  con- 
sists of  16  ends  of  2-90s. 

The  yarns  were  reeded  2  ends  per 
dent  in  the  loom.  The  selvages  were 
also  reeded  2  ends  per  dent,  i.  e.,  2 -ply 
yarns.  Two  of  these  would  be  equal  to 
4  of  the  single  yams. 

Woven  with  about  94  ends  per  inch 
in  the  loom,  it  will  be  seen  that  a  very 
fine  reed  has  been  used.  This  was  nec- 
essary in  order  that  an  even  surface, 
practically  free  from  reed  marks, 
should  result. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

The  goods  may  be  woven  on  a  single 
box  plain  loom  of  not  too  light  con- 
struction. On  account  of  the  fairly 
large  number  of  picks  per  inch  and 
the  fine  quality  of  cloth,  a  firm,  steady 
take-up  motion  on  the  loom  la  neces- 
sary. 

The  ends  are  drawn  In  In  the  regu- 
lar 1,  3,  2,  4  skip  shaft  order,  on 
twine  harnesses.  One  warp  beam  only 


is  required.  Practically  all  fabrics 
usually  woven  on  cam  looms  may  also 
be  woven  on  dobby  looms,  if  neces- 
sary. 

To  weave  the  fabric  under  consid- 
eration, on  a  dobby  loom,  the  ends 
should  be  drawn  in  straight  on  at  least 
8  harnesses  to  prevent  overcrowdint 
of  the  heddles. 

FINISHING. 
A  good  finish  for  these  goods  is  to 
singe,  wash,  bleach,  size  or  starch 
witli  a  light  Indian  corn  or  potato 
starch,  the  former  material  being  pref- 
erable; then  calender,  dry  and  make 
up  as  required.  A  second  dampening 
and  calendering,  following  the  first 
calendering,  improves  the  quality  of 
the  finish.  Very  little  stiffening  or 
starch  is  used  because  the  goods  arts 
intended  to  be  washed  frequently. 
When  finished,  the  goods  have  the 
appearance  of  a  smooth  linen  finished 
lawn.     They  are  slightly  glossy. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  division  of  mills  that  make  the 
yarns  that  India  linon  is  composed 
of  is  the  third.  This  division  of  mills, 
as  given  in  a  previous  article,  is  the 
one  that  makes  the  finest  yams  and 
is  equipped  with  machinery  suitable 
to  do  this.  India  linon  is  made  from 
a  good  quality  of  Sea  Island  cotton  of 
about  1^  to  1%  inch  staple.  For  this 
class  of  goods  it  is  quality  and  not 
quantity  that  is  the  main  considera- 
tion. Tlie  cotton  is  mixed  as  has  been 
described  in  previous  articles,  the 
good  sliver  being  maxed  in  at  this 
point,  as  well  as  laps  that  are  too 
light  and  cut  sliver  waste,  if  any  is 
made  at  any  of  the  processes.  Some 
overseers  put  cut  sliver  through  the 
last  process  again,  and  let  it  go  at 
that,  but  the  only  proper  method  tq^  ^ 
remedy  this  kind  of  work  is  to  put  j^j 
back  into  the  mixing.  .;  ynido 


FOR   THIS   FABRIC 


IB     (W 


the   cotton   is   put  through   two   proc- . 
esses  of  pickers,  and  an  opener.     The    • 
opener  should  be  kept  as  full  as  possi- 
ble so  that  as  even  a  feed  as  possible 
will  be  obtained.     The  breaker  picker 
is   generally    equipped    with    a    two- 


640 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Some  overseers  prefer  a  pin  beat- 
er, but  others  claim  that  it  puts  neps 
into  long  staple  cotton.  This  is  un- 
doubtedly due  to  improper  setting  as 
well  as  not  running  it  at  the  proper 
speed.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  of  this  picker  is  32  pounds  or  a 
9%-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled 
4  into  1  at  the  finisher  picker.  This 
picker  has  a  two-bladed  beater,  whose 
speed  is  1,050  revolutions  per  minute, 
or  about  29  beats  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  should  be  just 
high  enough  to  get  the  dirt  out  of  the 
cotton  and  not  injure  it.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  the 
picker  is  30  pounds  or  a  9 ^^ -ounce  lap. 
A  variation  of  6  ounces  either  side  of 
standard  is  allowed;  if  laps  weigh  out- 
side of  this  they  are  either  put 
through  the  finisher  picker  again  or 
if  a  great  deal  too  light  or  too  heavy 
they  are  put  back  into  the  mixing 
again.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  tae 
card.  The  cards  used  for  this  stock 
should  be  kept  free  of  all  dirt,  etc., 
and  the  card  fillet  should  be  kept 
sharp  and  parts  properly  set  to  each 
other.     The  flats  should  make 

ONE  COMPLETE    REVOLUTION 

every  35  minutes,  the  licker-in  speed 
should  not  exceed  280  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  should  be  40  grains  per  yard. 
It  is  an  important  point  that  the  cards 
should  be  kept  extra  clean.  The  pro- 
duction of  a  card  for  a  week  of  60 
hours  should  not  exceed  275  pounds. 
The  draft  should  be  not  less  than  130. 
After  passing  through  the  cards,  the 
sliver  is  generally  put  through  sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap  and  comber  processes. 
At  the  sliver  lap  the  doublings  for  an 
8%-inch  lap  are  14  into  1.  The  weight 
of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  of  this  ma^ 
chine  is  220  grains.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and 
doubled  6  into  1.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  sliver  at  the  front  of  this  ma- 
chine is  210  grains.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  comber  and  doubled  6  into  1  if  a 
six-head  comber,  or  2  into  1,  if  comb- 
er is  an  eight-head  comber.  Set  and 
time  the   comber   for  this   stock  the 


same  as  given  in  a  previous  article  on 
Sea  Island  cotton.  Keep  all  parts 
of  comber  that  the  cotton  comes  in 
contact  with  well  polished  and  free 
from  dirt.  If  more  than  one  end 
breaks  on  the  table  the  sliver  at  the 
front  should  be  broken  before  entering 
the  coiler  and  the  broken  ends  pieced 
up  before  the  sliver  is  allowed  to  en- 
ter can.  If  any  single  has  entered  the 
can,  it  should  of  course  be  removed 
and  the  end  properly  pieced  again;  be 
sure  and  make  a  good  piecing,  not  one 
that  will  break  back  at  the  succeeding 
process  or  one  that  will  not  draw  out. 
The  sliver  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  the  doublings  of 
which  are  all  6  into  1.  The  weight  of 
the  drawing  at  the  front  of  the  finish- 
er drawing  should  be  65  grains  per 
yard.     For 

THIS   CLASS   OF  WORK 

leather  top  rolls  are  generally  used. 
These  should  be  kept  well  oiled  and 
varnished  and  in  perfect  order.  The 
drawings  should  be  sized  four  times 
a  day  and  the  ribbon  lap  at  least  once 
a  day.  Look  out  to  see  that  your  stop- 
motions  are  all  in  perfect  order  and 
working.  Be  sure  that  there  are  no 
laps  on  the  third  bottom  steel  roll  or 
in  fact  on  any  roll,  as  this  will  tend  to 
produce  cut  sliver  as  well  as  throw 
the  size  out.  Keep  drawing  on  heavy 
size  of  standard  weight.  This  sliver  Is 
next  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  drawn 
into  .80  hank  roving.  The  bottom  steel 
rolls  should  be  a  little  larger  in  diam- 
eter than  when  used  for  shorter  staple. 
This  is  in  order  to  prevent  licking. 
The  clearers  on  the  slubber  should  be 
picked  frequently  and  not  allowed  to 
collect  until  they  drop  down  and  pass 
into  the  work.  The  hank  roving  at  the 
fly  frame  is  as  follows:  for  filling  first 
intermediate,  2.25  hank;  second  inter- 
mediate, 5  hank;  fine,  20  hank;  for 
warp  yam,  first  intermediate,  2.25 
hank;  second,  5  hank,  and  fine,  18 
hank;  for  the  selvage  yarn  use  the 
same  hank  roving  as  for  the  warp 
yarn.  On  this  grade  of  stock  the 
slubber  rolls  should  be  varnished  and 
some  overseers  varnish  the  front  rolls 
of  their  first  intermediate  frame.  The 
leather  top  rolls  should    be    in    per- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


641 


feet  condition  and  special  care 
should  be  given  to  the  rail  or 
carriage  and  the  parts  that  op- 
erate it  to  see  that  they  change 
sharply  and  that  there  is  no  dwell  at 
the  top  and  bottom  of  the  bobbin,  for 
this  may  cause  it  to  run  over  or  under 
and  make  a  bad  bobbin,  or  if  this 
does  not  happen,  it  will  break  back  at 
the  spinning  frame  or  mule  every  time 
It  gets  to  the  top  or  bottom  of  the  bob  - 
bin,  thus  causing  a  lot  of  trouble,  be- 
sides the  liability  of  singles,  which 
should  be  looked  out  for  at  all  proc- 
esses. Full  bobbins  should  never  be 
thrown  into  the  boxes,  but  should  be 
packed.  The  roving  for  filling  may  be 
taken  to  either  the  mule  or  spinning 
room;  if  the  latter,  use  a  frame  hav- 
ing a  5-inch  traverse,  1^4 -inch  diam- 
ter  ring  and  a  spindle  speed  of  7,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
then  conditioned,  then  it  is  ready  to 
use.  The  warp  yarn  is  frame  spun 
on  a  frame  having  a  2%-inch  diameter 
ring;  5 -inch  traverse,  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  yarn  is  put  through  the  spooler 
and  warping  processes  and  from  here 
to  the  slasher,  where  sufficient  beams 
are  put  up  at  the  back  to  give  the 
required  number  of  ends  at  the  front. 
For  this  class  of  goods  the  following 
size  mixture  may  be  used:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  70  pounds;  tal- 
low, 7  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3 
pounds;  white  soap,  2  pounds;  boil 
two  hours  and  let  stand  ten  hours. 
Before  using,  keep  agitator  running, 
and  keep  size  at  almost  boiling  point. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
PINK. 
Two  ounces  diamine  fast  scarlet  4 
B.;    ^   pound   sal   soda;    20   per   cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

PEARL. 
Two  ounces  thion  violet  black  A.;   3 
ounces  thion  black  T  B  C.;  1  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  indone  B  B.; 
10   per  cent   sulphide   sodium;    2   per 
cent  soda  ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 


LIGHT  BLUE. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  F.; 
5  per  cent  sulphide  soda;   1  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Four  ounces  thion  brown  G.;   1  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 

SAGE  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  thion  green  G.;   %  per 
cent  thion  yellow  G.;  l^^  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  20 
per  cent  salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight  per  cent  thion  brown  G. ;  2  per 
cent  thion  brown  O. ;  10  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
Two  per  cent  thion  yellow  G.;  6  per 
cent  thion   green   G.;    8  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
SLATE. 
Four  ounces  thion  black  T  R.;  14  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash:   15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 


TAFFETA  SILK  LINING  OR 
TAFFETINE 

This  is  a  fabric  made  with  a  silk 
warp,  cotton,  linen  or  wild  silk  filling. 
Taffetine  is  a  term  variously  used  at 
different  times;  specifically  it  is  a  fine, 
glossy,  closely  woven,  uncorded  and 
untwilled  fabric,  used  entirely  for 
ladies'  wear  in  the  form  of  a  lining, 
underskirts,  etc.  Taffetine  derives  its 
name  from  the  more  costly  fabric 
taffeta.     This  fabric  is  of 

QUITE  ANCIENT  ORIGIN, 

being  in  use  as  early  as  the  16th  cen- 
tury as  a  dress  fabric  for  both  men 
and  women.  Taffeta  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury was  a  thick,  costly  fabric,  made 
with  silk  and  wool.  In  the  17th  cen- 
tury the  fabric  was  defined  as  a  soft, 
thin  fabric.  In  the  transition  the^ 
goods  have  undergone  a  complete 
change  of  texture  and  in  the  18th  cen- 


642 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


tury  taffeta  was  a  very  lustrous  silk 
fabric,  sometimes  checked  or  flowered 
or  striped  with  gold  and  silver. 

The  taffetine  under  consideration  is 
a  fine,  plain-woven  fabric  with  warp 
threads  per  inch  greatly  in  excess  of 
filling  threads  per  inch  and  the  warp 
of  a  much  finer  count  than  the  filling. 

THE  FINEST  QUALITIES 
of  fabrics  are  made  on  this  basis.  The 
warp  yarn  for  these  goods  is  inva- 
riably raw  silk,  technically  known  as 
organzine  or  thrown  silk,  and  the  fill- 
ing may  be  cotton,  linen  or  artificial 
silk. 

The  raw  silk  used  for  filling  in  silk 
fabrics  is  technically  known  as  tram 
silk.  This  is  similar  to  the  organzine; 
the  difference  lies  in  the  twisting  of 
the  filaments.  These  filaments  are  put 
together  very  loosely  with 

LITTLE  OR  NO  TWIST; 
consequently,   they  are  not  as  strong 
as  the  more  firmly  twisted  fibres,  but 
sufficiently  strong  to  answer  as  filling. 

When  the  filaments  cannot  be  drawn 
from  the  cocoon  in  one  continuous 
thread,  due  generally  to  the  cocoon 
being  damaged  by  the  worm  in  eating 
its  way  out,  these  cocoons  are  torn  up 
and  the  filaments  are  combed  and  laid 
parallel  to  one  another,  and  the  thread 
made  from  the  damaged  cocoons  is 
known  as  spun  silk. 

The  spun  silk  is  not  as  smooth  or 
as  fine  as  the  raw  silk  thread,  although 
some  of  the  fibres  are  of  considerable 
length  and  strong  enough  to  be  used 
for  warp  threads.  Spun  silk  is  cal- 
culated by  the  weight  on  same  basis 
as  cotton,  namely,  840  yards  to  1  hank, 
or,  840  yards  of  No.  Is  equal  one 
pound.  Raw  silk  is  calculated  as  to 
the  size  of  thread,  on  the  hanks  in 
drams  avoirdupois;  thus,  if  one  hank 
weighs  1  dram,  it  is  known  as  1  dram 
silk,  or  256,000  yards  equal  1  pound. 

During  recent  years  there  has  been 
a  tendency  among  manufacturers  us- 
ing silk  to  designate  the  size  by  the 
denier  method.  Raw  silk  generally  is 
designated  by  this  method  when  it  is 
first  purchased  in  the  skein  form  and 
in  order  to  avoid  confusion  many  are 
using  the  same  method  when  the 
silk  has  beea  thrown  or  spun.      In 


this  method  the  basis  is  the  weight 
of  450  meters  (about  500  yards)  when 
weighed  by  a  unit  of  5  centigrams 
(about  7%  grains).  This  gives  a 
yardage  per  pound  for  a  number  1 
denier  of  4,464,538.  In  order  to  find 
the  denier  size,  if  the  yards  per  pound 
are  known,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
divide  the  standard  number  of  yards 
by  the  yards  per  pound  in  the  size 
considered.  If  the  denier  size  be 
known  it  is  only  necessary  to  divide 
the  size  into  the  standard  number  of 
yards  to  obtain  the  yardage  per  pound. 
Of  course,  there  is  a  certain  amount 
of  allowance  usually  made  in  the  yard- 
age because  of  silk  variation  or  for 
the  take-up  in  the  throwing  process, 
etc,  but  the  foregoing  is  the  basis  up- 
on which  estimates  are  made.  Cot- 
ton manufacturers  more  than  woolen 
manufacturers  are  becoming  accus- 
tomed to  raw  silk  sizing  upon  the 
basis  mentioned.  Woolen  manu- 
facturers are  more  accustomed  to  use 
the  dram  silk  sizing. 

THE  FILLING 
for  these  fabrics  is  either  cotton,  lin- 
en or  wild  silk.  Linen  filling  is  used 
in  the  best  grades  of  taffetine;  linen 
yarn  is  prepared  similarly  to  worsted 
thread,  notwithstanding  that  linen  is 
a  vegetable  fibre.  The  raw  flax  is  flrst 
beaten  or  crushed  in  order  to  make  it 
pliable;  then  it  is  combed,  or  passes 
through  the  process  technically 
known  as  scutching.  Flax  flbres  must 
be  of  a  certain  length  in  order  to  work 
properly.  If  too  long,  they  are 
broken  in  a  machine  called  a  saw. 
After  the  fibres  are  combed  they  are 
carded  and  the  long  fibres  are  spun  in 
to  linen  yarn,  while  the  short  flbres 
are  converted  into  what  is  known  as 
tow  yarn.  Taffetine  is  sold  in  both 
narrow  and  wide  widths.  The  nar- 
row fabric  is  usually  about  19  inches 
wide.  This  narrow  fabric  is  common- 
ly 

WOVEN  DOUBLE  WIDTH, 

then  cut  in  two  after  the  fabric  is 
woven. 

In  order  that  the  ends  may  not  fray 
out  after  the  fabric  is  cut,  the  goods 
are  made  with  a  fast  center  selvage, 
In    warping,  extra  ends  are   allowed 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


643 


just  as  in  an  ordinary  outside  sel- 
vage. In  the  center  of  the  warp, 
these  ends  are  reeded  double,  as  is  the 
common  practice  for  reeding  selvages, 
leaving  one  or  more  dents  empty 
where  the  fabric  is  to  be  cut. 

Fast  center  selvages  are  extensive- 
ly used  in  the  manufacture  of  ribbons, 
scarfs,  cheaper  grades  of  cassimeres 
and,  in  fact,  any  fabric  characterized 
by  its  narrowness. 

The  fast  center  selvage  consists  of 
crossing  one  thread  over  two  or  more 
•  threads,    similarly   to    the    douping   of 
-threads  in  leno  weaving. 

See  diagram.  Fig.  1. 

The  douping  or  crossing  of  threads 
'is   effected   by   an   attachment  on  the 


center    selvages,    80;    equals    total    of 
4,080  ends  in  warp. 

Take-up  during  weaving,  10  per 
cent;  warp,  1%  dram  organzine  silk. 
Filling,  l-50s  combed  and  gassed 
cotton;  88  picks  per  inch. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Plain  woven  silk  warp  fabrics  may 
be  woven  on  any  light,  smooth-running 
loom.  The  essential  consideration  is 
the  heddles.  For  this  class  of  fabrics 
the  French  string  heddles  are  consid- 
ered the  best,  as  they  are  less  liable  to 
break  or  chafe  the  w^arp  during  the 
process  of  weaving  in  comparison  with 
the  ordinary  wire  heddle. 
FINISHING. 

The  goods  require  little  in  the  way 


Fig.  1. 
Dotted  line   indicates  where  fabric   is  to  be   cul. 


back  of  the  loom,  directly  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  loom  if  but  two  pieces  are 
to  be  woven;  the  threads  that  are 
crossed  rest  stationary  in  the  attach- 
ment, while  the  crossing  threads  cross 
over  from  one  side  to  the  other  at  each 
pick  or  every  two  picks  as  may  be  de- 
sired. The  crossing  thread  and  the 
threads  over  which  it  crosses  must  be 
reeded  in   the  same  dent,    as  in  leno 

weaving. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed.  40  inches, 
double  width;  width  of  fabric  finisned, 
19  inches,  single  width;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  106;  ends  per  inch  in  reed, 
100. 

Reed,  50x2;  ends  in  warp,  double 
width,     3,920;    outside   selvages,     80; 


of  finishing.  After  the  fabric  is  dyed 
it  is  slightly  stiffened  by  immersing  in 
a  light  solution  of  size.  The  stiffen- 
ing and  the  materials  used  in  the  con- 
struction  of  the  fabric  produce  a  crisp 
and  rustling  effect. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Taffetine  is  composed  of  yarns  made 
in  the  second  division  of  mills  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  These  mills  are 
equipped  with  combers.  The  warp 
yarn  of  the  fabric  under  description 
is  silk  and  the  filling  yam  is  cotton. 
For  this  class  of  fabric  two  kinds  of 
raw  stock  may  be  used,  either  a  medi- 
um staple  Sea  Island  cotton,  or  an 
Egyptian  cotton.  We  will  assume  that 
an  Egyptian  cotton  of  good  grade  and 


Ui 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  1%-incli  staple  is  used.  As  Egyptian 
cotton  is 

MORE  EASILY  WORKED 
than  American  cotton,  the  speeds  at 
which  the  different  machines  are  run 
are  higher,  as  will  be  noted  by  com- 
paring this  article  with  some  of  the 
other  articles  in  which  an  American 
cotton  of  the  same  grade  and  length 
of  staple  has  been  described.  Egyp- 
tian bales  of  cotton  are  baled  better 
and  compressed  more  tightly  than 
American  bales,  the  average  weight 
being  800  pounds,  instead  of  500 
pounds,  as  compared  with  the  Ameri- 
can bales.  The  cotton  should  be  al- 
lowed to  stand  in  the  bins  a  little 
longer  than  the  American  bales,  so  as 
to  allow  the  cotton  to  expand.  The 
good  waste  from  the  machines  up  to 
the  slubber  is  put  into  the  mixing.  The 
cotton  is  then  passed  through  either 
two  or  three  processes  of 

PICKING 
and  an  opener.  Keep  the  opener  well 
filled  with  raw  stock  so  that  as  even 
a  feed  as  possible  may  be  obtained. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  at  the  breaker 
picker  is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute 
and  the  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds  or  a  20-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
is  371/^  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The 
doublings  at  the  finisher  picker  are  4 
into  1,  the  speed  of  the  picker  being 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  of  the 
picker  is  35  pounds  or  a  12 1/^ -ounce 
lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card. 
The  licker-in  speed  is  350  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  flats  make  one  'com- 
plete revolution  every  30  minutes,  and 
the  cylinder  160  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  draft  of  the  card  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  135.  The  sliver  at  the 
front  weighs  45  grains  per  yard  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
is  550  pounds.    Use  the  same 

SETTINGS  AT  THE  CARD 
as  have  been  previously  given  for  1%- 
inch    staple    American    cotton.      The 
grinding  and  stripping  times  are  also 


the  same.  The  sliver  is  next  put 
through  a  sliver  lap  machine,  when  it 
is  doubled  14  into  1  for  an  8%-inch 
lap.  The  draft  of  this  machine  is 
about  2.  The  bottom  steel  rolls  are 
spread  as  follows  for  this  staple  of 
cotton:  Front  to  middle,  1%  inches; 
middle  to  back,  1%  inches.  The  weight 
of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  is  295 
grains.  These  laps  are  doubled  6  in- 
to 1  at  the 

RIBBON  LAP  MACHINE. 
The  bottom  steel  rolls  of  this  ma- 
chine are  spread  as  follows:  Front  to 
second,  lYz  inches;  second  to  third, 
1%  inches;  third  to  back,  1%  inches. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  of  this  machine  is  275  grains.  A 
size  of  the  lap  at  this  machine  should 
be  taken  once  a  day.  A  variation  of  2 
grains  either  side  of  the  standard  is 
allowed  before  changing  the  draft 
gear.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  according  to  the 
number  of  heads  that  the  comber  con- 
tains— generally  6  or  8.  If  a  six-head 
comber  is  used,  six  laps  would  be  put 
up  at  the  back.  The  percentage  of 
waste  taken  out  for  this  stock  is  18. 
The  settings  of  the  draw  box  rolls  are: 
Front  to  middle,  1  7-16  inches;  middle 
to  back,  lYz  inches.  The  speed  of  the 
comber  is  90  nips  per  minute.  The 
timings  and  settings  are  the  same  as 
given  in  a  previous  article.  The  per- 
centages of  the  combers  should  be  tak- 
en regularly,  the  general  method  being 
to  take  so  many  combers  a  day.  Keep 
needles  in  good  condition  and  straight 
and  free  from  waste.  See  that  the 
half-lap  needles  are  in  good  condition, 
and  that  the  timings  and  settings  are 
as  they  should  be.  About  two  comb- 
ers a  week  should  be  scoured  by  a 
comber  man  and  his  helper.  The 
weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  at  the  coiler 
of  this  machine  is  40  grains.  This 
sliver  is  next  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 
the  doubling  being  either  6  ends  up  at 
both  processes  or,  as  is  often  done,  8 
ends  up  at  the  breaker  and  6  ends  at 
the  finisher.  The  weight  per  yard  of 
the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  is 
74   grains.     The   top   rolls   used  may 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


645 


be  either  metallic  or  leather.  The  set- 
tings of  the  rolls  are  as  follows:  Front 
to  second,  l^^  inches;  second  to  third, 
li  inches  and  third  to  back,  12  inches. 
This  setting  is  for  leather  rolls. 
If  metallic  rolls  are  used,  set  Vs  of  an 
inch  wider.  Size  at  the  drawing  frame 
four  times  a  day.  At  the  slubber  the 
sliver  is  drawn  into  .50  hank  roving, 
alter  which  it  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  1.25;  second  inter- 
mediate, 3;  and  fine  frame,  10  hank. 
This  cotton  requires  1  tooth  more 
twist  than  American  cotton  for  the 
same  hank  roving.  Set  the  jack  frame 
bottom  steel  rolls  as  follows:  Front 
to  middle,  1  7-16  inches,  and  middle 
to  back,  iy2  inches.  Size  10  hank 
roving  once  a  day.  Watch  the  usual 
points  at  the  speeders  that  have  been 
already  pointed  out  in  previous  arti- 
cles. 

THE  FILLING 

is  either  mule  or  frame  spun,  general- 
ly mules  being  used  for  this  class  of 
goods.  If  frame  spun,  the  require- 
ments of  a  frame  are  as  follows: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1V4  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
oVz  inches;  si)eed  of  spindles,  8,200 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  yarn  is 
then  run  over  or  through  a  gas  flame 
to  take  off  all  fuzz  and  give  it  a  lus- 
ter. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

The  dyeing  of  goods  composed  of 
silk  and  cotton  is  generally  done  in 
open  vats  provided  with  a  winch,  in 
some  cases  also  on  a  jigger  if  the  ma- 
terial to  be  dyed  requires  it.  Colors 
which  dye  silk  and  cotton  are  used, 
dyeing  first  with  the  substantive  color, 
with  soap  and  phosphate  of  soda,  or 
common  salt  and  a  little  sal  soda. 
Should  the  silk  require  colors  to  be 
made  a  little  brighter,  acid  colors  are 
used  in  a  bath  of  soap  and  acetic 
acid,  or  a  basic  color  is  dyed  in  a 
soap  bath  with  acetic  acid,  the  color 
dyeing  both  the  cotton  and  silk  a 
brighter  shade.  For  pale  shades:  10 
gallons    liquor;     5    ounces    soap;     ^ 


ounce  sal  soda;  3  ounces  phosphate 
soda.  For  heavy  shades:  10  gallons 
liquor;  6  ounces  soap;  Yz  ounce  sal 
soda;  6  ounces  phosphate  soda;  10 
ounces  Glauber's  salt.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  dye-bath  is  generally  about 
195  degrees  F.  After  dyeing,  the  pieces 
must  be  well  rinsed,  and  raised  with 
acetic  acid,  in  cold  water:  10  gallons 
water;   lYz  pints  acetic  acid. 

BLACK. 

Eight  per  cent  union  black  S.;  1  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A.;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  2 
per  cent  soap.  Top  with  alizarine 
black  4  B. 

SEA  GREEN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  black  H 
W.;  4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B.; 
topped  with  new  methylene  blue  N.; 
new  phosphine  G. 

For  10  gallons  dye-liquor:  6  ounces 
soap;  Yz  ounce  sal  soda;  3  ounces 
phosphate  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue 
B.;  1  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue 
G.;  topped  with  new  methylene  blue 
N  X.;  metaphenylene  blue  B.;  indigo 
blue  N. 

PEARL. 
Two   ounces   diamine  gray  G.;    1-16 
ounce  diamine  brown  M.;  topped  with 
aniline  gray  B. 

SLATE. 
Ten    ounces    diamine    gray    G.;    % 
ounce  diamine  brown  M.;  topped  with 
cyanol  extra,  orange  extra. 
LIGHT   MAUVE. 
One    ounce    diamine    violet    N.;    ^ 
ounce  diamine  brilliant  blue  G.;   top- 
ped with  methyl  violet  B  1. 
VIOLET. 
One  per  cent  diamine  violet  N.;    ^ 
per    cent    diamine    brilliant    blue    G.; 
topped  with  methyl  violet  B  1. 
PINK. 
Two   per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D.; 
topped  with  rhodamine  G. 
RED. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.; 
topped  with  safranine  S  150;   acid  vi- 
olet 4  R  S. 


646 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SKY  BLUE. 

Four  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F.; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;  i^ 
per  cent  diamine  yellow  B.;  topped 
with  Bismarck  brown  F  F.;  thioflavine 
T. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  black  H  W. ;  2 
per  cent  diamine  green  B.;  1  per  cent 
diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  topped  with 
brilliant  green;  new  methylene  blue 
N. 

SCARLET. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  scarlet 
G  B.;  1^  per  cent  diamine  orange  D 
C;  topped  with  safranine  G  G  S.;  tan- 
nine orange  R. 

13  (sq.  in.)  X  7,000  (grs.  per  lb.) 


excellent  wearing  and  washing  quali- 
ties. 

The  usual  widths  are  from  32  inches 
to  36  inches. 

They  are  made  in  different  grades. 
Retail  prices  for  some  are  12  and  15 
cents  for  the  32 -inch  width,  23  cents, 
27  cents,  32  cents  and  38  cents  for  the 
36-inch  width. 

A  typical  fabric,  weighing  about  8% 
square  yards  per  pound,  is  constructed 
as  follows:  124  ends  per  inch,  120  picks 
per  inch,  36  inches  wide,  finished. 

CALCULATIONS. 

Thirteen  square  inches  of  the  cloth 
under  consideration  weigh  8  grains 
To  find  the  number  of  yards  per 
pound: 

8.777   yards  per  pound. 


8  (grs.)  X  36  (cloth  width)  x  36  (inches  per  yard) 

CREAM.  To    find    the    average    number    or 

One-quarter  ounce  diamine  gold;    V4,      count  of  yarn  in  the  cloth: 

124   (ends  per  inch)    +  120   (picks  per  inch)    =   244. 
244  X  8.777  (yds.  per  lb.)  x  36  in. 


100     average     number. 


764  (10%  allowed  for  contraction  and  size  764  used  instead  of  840) 

ANOTHER  METHOD 


ounce  diamine  orange  B.;    1-16  ounce 
diamine  fast  yellow  B. 

STEEL. 
One-eighth  ounce  diamine  gray  G.; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra;  aniline  gray 
B. 

♦^-^ 

VICTORIA  LAWN 

Victoria  lawn  is  a  fabric  resembling 
to  a  great  extent  a  fabric  previously 
explained,  linon.  It  is  usually  made 
with  slightly  heavier  yarn  in  the  warp 
and  contains  a  greater  number  of  ends 
and  picks  per  inch.  It  is  very  firmly 
woven. 

It  is  especially  used  for  aprons  and 
ladies'    heavy   undergarments,    having 


of  finding  the  average  number,  without 
taking  into  consideration  the  number 
of  yards  per  pound,  is  as  follows: 

Mutiply  the  sum  of  the  sley  and 
pick  by  the  number  of  square  inches 
weighed  and  by  .254  and  divide  by  the 
weight  in  grains. 

This  is  a  simpler  method,  as  will  be 
seen  by  comparing  the  number  of  fig- 
ures that  have  to  be  used  in  the  two 
methods: 

244  X  13  X  .254 


100   average   number. 


.254  in  the  above  example  Is  a  con- 
stant obtained  by  dividing  7,000 
(grains)  by  36  (inches)  and  by  764 
(yards  per  hank).  The  latter  is  used 
instead  of  840,  allowing  10  per  cent. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


647 


The  counts  of  the  yams  are:  warp, 
85s;    filling,   130s. 

The  weight  of  the  warp  yarns  may 
be  obtained  as  follows:  124  (ends  per 
Inch)  times  36  inches  (finished  width) 
equals  4,464.  4,464  plus  40  for  selvages 
equals  4,504,  total  number  of  ends  in 
warp. 


After  a  bleaching  process,  the  pieces 
are  given  a  very  good  starching  with 
4  ounces  of  German  white  dextrine  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  boiled  for  one  hour, 
and  starched  through  a  mangle,  and 
dried  over  a  tenter  frame,  care  being 
taken  to  have  the  goods  perfectly 
straight. 


4.504x105    (length  of  warp) 
85  (counts  of  warp)  x  840 


=    6.623   lbs.   of  warp  in   100  yards   of  cloth. 


6.623  plus  5  per  cent  for  size  equals 
6.954  pounds,  weight  of  warp  and  size. 

To  find  weight  of  filling:  120  (picks 
per  inch)  times  40  inches  (width  in 
reed)  equals  4,800  yards  of  filling  in 
one  yard  of  cloth. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  of  which  Victo- 
ria lawn  is  composed  are  made  in  the 
second  and  third  divisions  of  mills  as 
given  in  a  previous  article.  The  counts 
of  yam  of  which  the  sample  under  de- 


4.800   X  100    (cloth  length) 
ISO  (filling  counts)  x  840 


6.954  lbs.   warp  and  size. 
4.392  lbs.   filling. 


4.392  lbs.  of  filling  in  100  yards  of  cloth. 


11.346  lbs.,  weight  of  100  yard  piece. 
100    -4-    11.346    =    8.8  yards  per  pound. 

The  fabric  under  consideration,  if 
woven  on  a  dobby  loom,  could  be  wo- 
ven on  about  8  harnesses,  straight 
draw,  the  ends  in  the  body  of  the  cloth 
being  reeded  4  in  a  dent.  The  selvage 
ends  work  2  as  1,  2  doubles  in  1  dent. 
The  weave  is  plain  throughout.  A  12- 
harness  straight  draw,  the  ends  reed- 
ed 3  in  a  dent,  could  be  substituted. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

The  remarks  made  in  connection 
with  the  preceding  article,  linon,  also 
apply  here.  A  single  box  cam  loom, 
firmly  made,  one  beam,  is  the  best  to 
use.  Dobby  looms,  although  capable 
of  weaving  goods  of  this  class,  are  not 
usually  run  at  as  high  a  rate  of  speed 
as  cam  looms. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  process  includes  singe- 
ing, washing,  bleaching,  very  light 
starching,  drying  and  pressing,  or  cal- 
endering. 


scription  is  made  are  85s  warp  and 
130s  filling.  Both  warp  and  filling 
yarns  are  combed.  The  cotton  used 
for  the  filling'  yarn  is  li-inch  staple 
Sea  Island  stock  and  that  used  for  the 
warp  is  either  a  long-staple  peeler  or 
a  1%-inch  Sea  Island.  "We  will  assume 
that  both  yams  are  made  from  Sea 
Island  stock.  The  cotton  would  first 
be  opened,  as  has  been  previously  ex- 
plained, and  put  through  an  opener, 
and  either  one  or  two  processes  of 
picking,  generally  two  processes  be- 
ing used;  but  it  is  the  opinion  of  a 
great  many  carders   that 

ONE   PROCESS    IS    BETTER 

because  of  the  fact  that  the  more  pick- 
ing this  cotton  is  given,  the  more  neps 
are  liable  to  be  put  in.  The  mixing 
is  generally  done  by  hand  and  not  by 
machine,  for  the  same  reason.  The 
cotton  should  be  passed  through  the 
opener  in  the  usual  manner  and 
should  pass  on  to  the  lattice  apron  of 
the  breaker  picker,  if  two  processes 
are    used,     and     from    here    passed 


648 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


through  the  feed  rolls  and  to  the  ac- 
tion of  the  beater.  This  beater  is  gen- 
erally of  the  two-bladed,  or  armed, 
type,  and  for  this  cotton  there  should 
only  be  made  sufficient  revolutions 
per  minute  to  take  out  the  dirt.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  1,150  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  if  two  processes  of 
picking  are  used.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  32 
pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  and  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
finisher  picker,  the  speed  of  the  beat- 
er being  950  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  beats  per  minute  for  this  stock 
are  29.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  28  pounds  or  a  9^^- 
ounce  lap  to  the  yard  for  the  l|-inch 
stock  and  a  lOi/^-ounce  lap  for  the  11- 
inch  stock.  A  variation  of  1,4  pound  is 
allowed  either  side  of  standard  for 
1%-inch  stock  and  i/^  pound  for  l^^- 
inch  stock.  It  is  understood  that 
every  lap  must  be  weighed.  The  lap 
is  next  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD- 
and  the  draft  for  the  longer  staple 
should  not  be  less  than  150  and  for 
the  shorter  staple  135.  The  flats 
should  make  one  revolution  every  35 
minutes  and  the  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  reduced  to  275  revolutions 
per  minute  for  the  same  reason  as 
given  for  the  reduction  of  the  speed  of 
the  beater  of  the  picker.  The  counts 
of  the  wire  used  for  the  fillet  should 
be  35s  for  cylinder  and  37s  for  doffer 
and  top  flats.  Special  care  should  be 
given  to  the  setting  and  grinding  of 
.  the  fillet  for  these  cards,  the  wire  be- 
ing always  kept  sharp.  Use  the  same 
settings  as  given  in  a  previous  article 
for  this  same  grade  of  stock.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
should  be  about  35  grains  per  yard  for 
the  li/^-inch  stock  and  32  for  the  11- 
inch  stock.  The  production  is  250 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours  for  If- 
inch  stock  and  275  to  325  pounds  for 
1%-inch  stock.  Both  card  slivers  are 
taken  to  the  sliver  lap  machines  and 
doubled  14  into  1  for  an  8|-inch  lap. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  lap  at 
this  machine  is  220  grains.  These 
laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine,  the  weight  of  the  lap  be- 


ing 210  grains  per  yard  for  both 
stocks.  The  laps  of  the  ribbon  lap  and 
sliver  lap  machines  should  be  weighed 
once  a  day  and  the  weights  changed 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  to  keep  the 
laps  at  standard  weight.  The  laps  are 
next  put  up 

AT  THE  COMBER 
and  doubled  either  6  or  8  into  1,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  heads  that 
the  comber  contains.  The  setting  and 
timing  of  the  comber  for  this  stock 
have  been  previously  given.  The  draw 
box  rolls  should  be  set  from  the  11- 
inch  stock  as  follows.  Front  to  mid- 
dle, 1  1-16  inches,  middle  to  back,  1% 
inches.  It  sometimes  happens  that  the 
draw  box  will  not  allow  the  rolls  to 
be  spread  this  distance,  and  about  the 
only  method  to  overcome  this  defect 
in  this  machine,  as  well  as  in  other 
machines  where  a  like  difficulty  oc- 
curs, is  to  reduce  the  draft  between 
the  middle  and  back  rolls  so  that  the 
speed  of  the  rolls  will  be  equal,  and 
set  rolls  just  to  staple,  which  will 
avoid  breaking  the  cotton;  but  this 
has  the  fault  of  bringing  all  the  draft 
between  the  middle  and  front  rolls. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  comb- 
er for  this  stock  is  35  grains  per  yard 
for  both  stocks.  The  percentage  of 
waste  taken  out  for  the  li-inch  staple 
is  25  per  cent  and  for  the  1%  staple 
is  22  per  cent.  This  sliver  is  next  put 
through  two  processes  of 

DRAWING. 
These  drawings  should  be  equipped 
with  leather  top  rolls,  and  especial 
care  should  be  given  to  the  leather  top 
rolls  of  the  sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap, 
comber  and  drawing  frame  machines. 
The  leather  detaching  rolls  of  the 
comber  require  a  somewhat  rougher 
varnished  roll  than  the  others,  the 
leather  rolls  used  for  the  other  ma- 
chines having  a  smooth,  glossy  finish. 
The  varnish  used  for  all  the  rolls 
should  be  that  which  will  prevent  all 
licking.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  finisher  drawing  should  be  60 
grains  per  yard  for  both  stocks,  the 
doublings  at  each  process  being  6  into 
1.  At  the  slubber  this  is  made  into  .80 
hank  roving.  The  front  top  rolls 
should  be  of  a  larger  diameter  than 


A  COTTON  B'ABRICS  GLOSSARY 


64d 


those  used  for  shorter  staples  and 
should  be  varnished  with  a  varnish 
which  will  give  them  a  smooth, 
glossy  finish.  The  settings  should  be 
13  inches  from  front  to  middle  and 
1%  inches  from  middle  to  back.  The 
slubber  roving  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames  and  made 
into  18  hank  roving  for  li/^-inch  stock, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  process  being 
as  follows:  1st  intermediate,  2.25 
hank;  2d,  5  hank;  and  fine  18  hank 
Sometimes  the  front  rolls  of  the  1st 
intermediate  fly  frame  are  varnished. 
This  yarn  is  next  put  through 

THE  SPINNING  FRAME 
and  made  into  85s  on  a  frame  having 
a  5-inch  traverse,  1%-inch  diameter 
ring  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  From  here  it  is 
spooled  and  warped  and  put  through 
a  slasher.  The  roving  for  the  filling 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,   the  hank   roving  at  each 

A  smaU  piece  4  in.  x  3  in.  weighs  15.7  grs. 
12    (sq.  in.)    x  7,000    (grains) 


ORIGIN. 

The  goods  are  said  to  have  originat- 
ed at  Biaz,  a  place  in  the  central  part 
of  Asia,  and  to  be  still  manufactured 
there  for  home  use  and  for  export  to 
Russia.  The  goods  bearing  this  name 
are  better  known  in  America  as  "lineu 
finish  suitings,"  and  are  principally 
used  for  ladies'  summer  suitings.  The 
eastern  goods  are  more  heavily  filled 
with  foreign  matter  than  ours  and  are 
used  for  various  purposes. 

ANALYSIS. 
The  analysis  of  a  typical  biaz  fabric 
shows  the  following  data:  Ends  per 
inch,  56;  picks  per  inch,  44;  finished 
width,  32.5  inches;  weight,  4.57  yards 
per  pound;  warp,  19s;  filling,  20s;  the 
ends  were  reeded  2  in  each  dent.  The 
weight  would  probably  be  considered 
4%  yards  per  pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 
To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 

4x3  =  12  sq.  inches. 

4.57  yards  per  pound. 


15.7  (grains)  x  32.5  (width)  x  36  (inches  per  yard) 

process    being   as    follows:    1st,    2.25  To   find  average  counts  of  yarn   in 

hank;   second,  7.75  hank,  and  fine,  24      the  cloth: 


56    ends    +    44   picks    =    100. 

100  X   32.5    (width)    x  4.57    (yds.   per  lb.) 

764 
100  X  12    (sq.   in.)   x  .254    (constant) 


15.7    (grains) 

hank.  This  is  mule  spun  into  130s 
and  from  here  is  taken  to  the  condi- 
tioning room. 

*-»~^ 

BIAZ,  OR  LINEN   FINISH 
SUITING 

Biaz  is  a  medium-grade  cotton  fab- 
ric resembling  linen  in  appearance. 
This  effect  is  usually  obtained  on  or- 
dinary cotton  yarns  in  the  finishing 
process,  or  in  somewhat  easier  form, 
by  using  mercerized  yarns  or  mercer- 
izing the  fabric  in  the  piece.  They  are 
usually  shown  white. 

The  term  biaz  is  an  uncommon  one 
in  this  country.  It  is  an  Asiatic  native 
name,    pronounced    be'az. 


19.4  average  count. 


19.4    average    counts. 


The  sizes  of  the  yarns  are  about  equal. 
For  practical  purposes  a  warp  of  19s 
and  a  filling  of  20s  would  answer. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
This  fabric  may  be  made  on  any  of 
the  light,  fast  running  cam  looms.  On 
account  of  the  small  number  of  ends 
per  inch  a  set  of  two-twine  harnesses 
would  be  preferable.  One  warp  and 
one  shuttle  only  are  required. 

FINISHING. 
The  finishing  of  biaz  is  really  the 
principal  characteristic  which  distin- 
guishes it  from  many  other  plain  wo- 
ven cloths.  It  has  a  more  glossy  ef- 
fect than  India  linen,  one  finishing 
process  being  somewhat  similar  to 
that  of  the  latter  fabric,  with  the 
beetling  process  added. 


650 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


A  finish  suitable  for  this  cloth  is  as 
follows:  Bleach,  mangle  and  dry;  fill 
with  a  light  starch  on  the  starch  man- 
gle; stretch  and  dry.  After  drying  and 
cooling,  it  is  run  through  the  damp- 
ing machine;  then  through  the  glazed 
calender  on  both  sides,  under  very 
heavy  pressure.  The  cloth  is  then 
dampened,  beetled,  changed  and  turn- 
ed, and  again  beetled  and  made  up  as 
required. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

For  biaz  the  same  instructions  may 
be  followed  as  were  given  in  the 
article  on  indigo  prints,  with  the  fol- 
lowing exceptions: 

The  slubber  roving  is  .50  hank  and 
this  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermediate 
the  roving  is  made  into  1.20  hank  and 
at  the  second  into  3.50  hank.  This  is 
then  passed  directly  to  the  spinning 
room  and  spun  into  19s  warp  yarn  on 
a  frame  having  a  2i-inch  gauge,  two- 
inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse; 
20.71  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  is  then  spooled  and  warped,  after 
which  several  warps  are  put  up  and 
run  through  the  slasher  and  run  upon 
a  beam  having  the  required  number  of 
ends  wanted  for  weaving.  The  filling 
yarn  is  spun  into  20s  on  a  frame  hav- 
ing a  2%-inch  gauge,  li/^-inch  diam- 
eter ring,  61/^ -inch  traverse,  14.53  twist 
per  inch,  and  a  spindle  speed  of  7,300 
revolutions  per  minute,  after  which 
the   yarn   is   conditioned. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  olive  G. ;   5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 

BRONZE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze  G.;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 

BLACK. 
Ten    per    cent    thiogene     black    M 
cone;  10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2 
per  cent  soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 


SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  TBC;   1 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per  cent 
soda  ash;    10  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Three-quarters  per  cent  thion  brown 
G.;  1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per 
cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  diSmine  fast  red  BB.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  brown  B.;  5 
per  cent   immedial   cutch   O. ;    10   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  thion  blue 
B  cone;  l^/^  per  cent  sulphide  sodium; 
1  per  cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
Develop  with  peroxide  of  hydrogen. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  thion  navy  blue  R.; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;    20   per  cent  salt.    Develop 
with  peroxide  of  sodium. 


COBURG  SUITING 

Coburg,  of  which  there  are  several 
varieties,  may  be  defined  as  a  thin 
dress  fabric  made  from  cotton  and 
worsted  or  cotton  and  silk. 

Coburg  derives  its  name  from  the 
city  of  Coburg,  in  Germany,  where  it 
was  first  manufactured.  The  all-cotton 
fabric  known  as  coburg  is  an  inex- 
pensive dress  fabric  imitating  the  gen- 
uine fabric  principally  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the   weave  only. 

The  weave  for  these  fabrics  is  an 

UNEVEN  SIDED  TWILL, 

giving  the  face  of  the  goods  a  very 
pronounced  twill  effect.  The  accentu- 
ation of  the  twill  is  in  part  due  to  the 
number  of  ends  per  inch  used  in  the 
construction  of  the  goods.  The  ends 
per  inch  in  the  sample  under  consider- 
ation equal  twice  the  number  of  picks 
per   inch. 

This  is  somewhat  in  excess  of  th« 
number  of  ends  required  to  make  per- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


651 


feet  cloth.  A  perfect  cloth  is  under- 
stood to  mean  a  cloth  in  which  the 
warp  and  filling  yarns  are  equal  in 
diameter,  and  the  space  between  the 
threads  is  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the 
yarn.  This  principle  of  construction 
applies  particularly  to  plain  woven 
cotton  fabrics,  more  so  than  to  any 
other  class  of  fabrics.  In  fabrics  of  a 
special  construction,  such  as  coburg, 
the  ends  per  inch  are  more  or  less 
crowded,   with   the   consequent   result 

■■aBiGaaa 
Daaaaanaa 
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aaaaaaaaa 
DaaDaaoaa 
aaaanaaaa 
aaaaaaaaa 
Daauaaaaa 

Fig.  1. 

Bnnaaanaa 
aoaaaaaa 
BaoDaomaa 
aaaamcaa 
□aaaauDaa 

Bagaaaaaa 
aiaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaaa 
■aoaaaaaa 

Figr.  2. 

of  a  pronounced  twill  effect  on  the 
face  of  the  fabric,  which  characterizes 
the   goods. 

Cotton  coburgs  are  commonly  made 

with  a  three-harness  twill  weave   ' 

The  ends  per  inch  required  in  order 
to  produce  a  perfect  cloth,  according  to 
the  above  principle  of  constructing  a 
perfect  fabric,  with  the  given  counts 
of  yarn,  would  be  as  follows: 

Weave  repeats  on  three  ends  with 
two  intersections.  Three  ends  plus  two 
intersections  equals  5;  as  5  :  3  ::  120, 
the  number  of  ends  that  will  lie  side 
by  side  of  l-20s  cotton  in  one  inch. 

Formula:  5  :  3  : :  120  :  x  equals  72. 

The  calculation  shows  that  72  ends 
and  72  picks  of  l-20s  would  give  a  per- 
fect cloth. 

In  some  fabrics  an  analysis  will 
show  120  ends  and  54  picks  in  the  fin- 
ished fabric.  The  inequality  of  ends 
and  picks  per  inch  characterizes  cloths 
of  special  construction,  as  the  fabric 
in  question.  Cotton  coburgs  are  prin- 
cipally used  for  dress  goods,  made  up 
into  wrappers,  shirtwaists,  shirtwaist 
suits,  etc.  The  goods  are  woven  in  the 
gray,  then  dyed  and  in  most  cases 
printed  or  bleached  and  then  printed. 


The  goods,  however,  have  no  particu- 
lar coloring  scheme  or  style  of  print- 
ed patterns.  Some  are  finished  in 
pure  white  or  bleached  without  any 
printed  pattern.  Again  they  may  be 
dyed  any  color  desired.  In  most  cases 
the  goods  are  dyed  and  printed.  The 
characters  of  patterns  that  are  most 
popular  in  this  class  of  goods  are 
small  geometrical  figures  or  small  con- 
ventionalized floral  figures  in  but  one 
or,  at  the  most,  two  colors. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  in  reed,  37 1/^   inches;   width, 
finished,  36  inches.     Reed,  1,400  x  3; 


i  0  :  o 

|o; 

.v. 

1  0  :  0 

• 

i  o  : 

•  •            •• 

•-•           •  • 
« •  •          » t» 

•  • 

•  • 

•  •• 

•  • 
•• 

1 0 ;  0 

\0-: 

Fig.  3. 

number  of  ends  in  warp,  4,374;  26 
ends  selvage;  equals  4,400  number  of 
ends. 

Number  of  ends,  per  inch,  finished, 
120;  number  of  picks  per  inch,  finish- 
er, 54;  take-up  in  weaving,  about  10 
per  cent;  warp  yarn,  l-26s  cotton,  fill- 
ing yarn,  l-26s  cotton. 

Fig.  1.  Three  repeats  of  weave, 
twill  running  to  the  left. 

Fig.  2.    Drawing-in  draft. 

The  warp  may  be  drawn  in  on  6 
harnesses;    9   harnesses   would   avoid 


652 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


crowding   of  the   harnesses  and   give 
better  results  in  weaving. 
Fig.  3.   A  sample  of  printed  pattern. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Common  cotton  fabrics,  as  a  rule, 
may  be  woven  on  almost  any  light  run- 
ning high-speed  loom.  Twill  weaves, 
in  which  more  than  four  harnesses  are 
required,  are  usually  woven  on  dobby 
looms.  An  automatic  dobby  loom 
would  answer  for  the  class  of  goods 
analyzed.  Broken  or  mispicks  in 
these  fabrics  are  hardly  noticeable,  the 
filling  showing  very  little  of  itself  on 
the  face  of  the  fabric. 

FINISHING. 

The  goods  are  first  all  boiled  off,  then 
dyed  or  bleached,  as  may  be  requir- 
ed, after  which  they  are  slightly  stif- 
ened  by  running  through  a  light  solu- 
tion of  size,  then  printed,  after  which 
they  are  made  up  into  laps  and  then 
shipped. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Under  most  conditions  the  same  in- 
structions given  for  indigo  prints  may 
be  followed.  The  main  point  of  differ- 
ence is  that  of  the  hank  rovings  at  the 
slubber  and  fiy  frames  or  speeders. 
At  the  slubber  the  hank  roving  is  .40 
and  at  the  first  intermediate  1.50, 
while  at  the  second  intermediate  it  is 
made  into  5.25  hank  roving.  This  rov- 
ing is  then  ring  spun  into  26s  for  both 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns.  For  the 
warp  yam  use  a  frame  having  a  6^^ 
inch  traverse;  1%-inch  diameter  ring; 
2|-inch  gauge  of  spindle  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,700  revolutions  per  minute. 

THIS  YARN 

is  then  run  on  a  spooler,  after  which 
the  spools  are  put  up  and  run  onto 
a  beam.  Several  beams  are  then  put 
up  at  the  slasher,  being  run  through 
this  machine  to  be  sized  and  run  onto 
a  beam  at  the  head  end.  The  filling 
frame  has  a  2^-inch  gauge;  1%-inch 
diameter  ring;  6-inch  traverse;  17.84 
twist  per  inch,  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8,000  revolutions  per  minute.  After  be- 
ing made,  the  yarn  should  be  condi- 


tioned by  putting  it  into  a  steam  chest 
or  some  similar  compartment,  al- 
though some  mills  merely  immerse  the 
full  boxes  of  yarn  into  a  tank  of  water 
and  take  them  out  immediately. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

For  cotton  warp  coburgs: 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  union  black  S.;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt. 

WINE. 
Three  and  a  half  per  cent  diamine 
Bordeaux   B.;    30   per   cent   Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
sky  blue  FF. ;  %  per  cent  diamine  steel 
blue  L. ;  8  ounces  thiocarmine  R.  pow- 
der;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

NAVY   BLUE. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  black  BH.; 
1/4  per  cent  naphthol  blue  black;  ^ 
per  cent  formyl  violet  S.  4  B. ;  ^  per 
cent  union  black  S.;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  orange  B.;  1 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  i^ 
per  cent  union  black  S.;  1  per  cent 
diamine  brown  M.;  Vz  per  cent  In- 
dian yellow  G. ;  35  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  green  G. ;  1 
per  cent  diamine  black  HW. ;  1  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  30  per 
cent   Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B. ;  1 
per  cent  fast  scarlet  B.;    30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

SLATE. 

Six  ounces  union  black;  2  ounces 
naphthol  blue  black;  1  ounce  diamine 
Bordeaux  B.;  2  ounces  diamine  orange 
B. ;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

For  coburgs,   all  wool: 

For  100  pounds  piece  goods:  Dye 
with  15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt,  4  per 
cent  sulphuric  acid,  for  light  and  me- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


653 


dium  shades;   for  dark  shades  add  a 
little  more  if  required. 

SLATE. 
Four  and    a    half    ounces    cyanole 
green  B.;   \^  ounce  acid  yellow  AT.;  1 
ounce  azo  orseille  BB. 

RED, 
Five  per  cent  naphthol  red  FB.;   1 
per  cent  orange  extra. 

OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  cyanole  green  6G.;  2^^ 
per  cent  acid  yellow  AT. 

PEACOCK   BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  indigo  blue  SGN.;    1 
per  cent  cyanole  extra. 

BROWN, 
Two  and  one-half  per  cent  acid  yel- 
low AT.;  2  per  cent  lanafuchsine  SG. ; 
%  per  cent  cyanole  green  6  G. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One   ounce     cyanole     FF.    pat.;     ^/^ 
ounce  acid  violet  6  BS. 

MAUVE. 
One  per  cent  azo  wool  violet  7  R.;  1 
ounce  cyanole  extra  pat. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  azo  navy  blue  3B.; 
1%  per  cent  azo  navy  blue  B. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  azo  merino  black  BE, 
♦-•-• 

KID  FINISH  CAMBRIC 

Kid  finish  cambric  is  a  name  given 
to  a  soft-finished  plain  cloth  which  is 
fairly  lustrous  on  both  sides,  but  more 
so  on  the  face  than  on  the  back.  It 
is  used  exclusively  for  dress  linings. 
It  varies  in  width  from  about  24  to  27 
Inches,  and  is  shown  In  black  and  sta- 
ple shades. 

The  fabric  derives  its  name  from  its 
appearance  after  being  subjected  to 
the  finishing  process. 

The  cloth  itself  before  finishing 
does  not  differ  from  many  other  plain 
cloths  now  shown  on  the  market.  It 
is  fairly  well  filled  with  foreign  sub- 
stances; the  retail  price  at  which  it  is 


sold,  about  5  cents  per  yard  for  goods 
24  inches  wide,  and  the  firm  feel  nec- 
essary, preclude  the  possibility  of  put- 
ting very  much  cotton  into  it. 

The  analysis  of  a  sample  under  con- 
sideration shows  the  following:  Fin- 
ished width,  251/^  inches;  ends  per 
inch,  64;  picks  per  inch,  54;  warp 
yarn,  34s;  filling  yarn,  388 ;  weight, 
8  1-3  yards  per  pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 

A  sample  4  inches  x  3  inches  in  size 
weighs  II  grains,  indicating  a  fabric 
weighing  approximately  8  1-3  yards 
per  pound. 

2,333.33 


^   8.31  yards  per  pound. 
11  grs.  X  25.5  in. 

Allowing  20  per  cent  for  size  and 
contraction,  the  average  counts  of 
yarns  used  may  be  found  as  follows: 

lis  .X  25.5  X  S.31  X  1.20 

=   35.6  average  number, 

840 

In  the  above  calculation  118  repre- 
sents the  sum  of  the  sley  and  pick,  25,- 
5  the  width  of  the  cloth,  and  8.31  the 
number  of  yards  per  pound. 

Assuming  the  counts  of  the  warp 
yarns  to  be  34s,  the  counts  of  filling 
required  to  make  the  given  weight  of 
cloth  may  be  found  as  follows: 

lis  (sum  of  sley  and  pick) 


54    (pick) 
1.43 


35.6    (average  counts) 
64    (sley) 


34    (warp  counts) 

3.31  —  1.S8    =    1.43. 


37.7s  counts  of  filling  required. 


38s  filling  would  be  used. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

As  these  goods  are  not  noticed  very 
closely  after  being  made  into  gar- 
ments, being  hidden  when  in  use,  lit- 
tle attention  is  paid  to  picking  out  or- 
dinary misweaves  in  the  loom.  Those 
that  are  made  are  covered  to  a  more 
or  less  extent  in  the  finishing  process. 

The  chief  consideration,  therefore, 
is  a  large  production,  which  can  best 
be  obtained  from  light  running  cam 
looms.  Ordinary  or  automatic  looms 
may  be  employed,  one  warp  beam  and 
one  shuttle  only  being  required.  The 
cloth  is  reeded  one  end  per  heddle  and 
t-wo  ends  per  dent. 


654 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


This  process  is  really  the  principal 
one  in  making  these  goods,  giving 
them,  as  it  does,  the  characteristic 
name.  It  gives  to  the  cloth  a  some- 
what leathery  feel,  not  too  harsh  or 
stiff,  while  yet  adding  a  fair  amount 
of  foreign  matter. 

After  bleaching,  dyeing  and  man- 
gling, the  cloth  is  dried  on  the  drying 
machine  and  allowed  to  cool.  It  is 
then  conditioned  on  the  damping  ma- 
chine and  allowed  to  lie  for  about  twu 
hours,  after  which  it  is  hot  swiss  cal- 
endered on  a  five-bowl  compound  lev- 
er calender,  using  light  pressure.  It  is 
afterward  filled  on  an  ordinary  two- 
bowl  compound  lever  starch  mangle 
with  a  mixture  somewhat  as  follows: 

Dextrin     200   pounds 

Potato    starch    or    farina 20   pounds 

Cornstarch    or    maize     20   pounds 

Oleine    oil     2"^    gallons 

Carbolic   acid    Va    pint 

Water,  sufficient  to  make  120  gallons  when 
boiled.        Boil   for   15  minutes. 

After  being  filled,  the  cloth  is  dried 
on  the  drying  machine  and  allowed  to 
cool,  then  conditioned  on  the  damping 
machine  and  allowed  to  lie  at  least 
two  hours.  It  is  then  hot  swiss  cal- 
endered on  a  three-bowl  dead  set  cal- 
ender, using  light  pressure,  after 
which  it  is  ready  for  making  up. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  the  grade  of  goods 
under  description  are  made  in  mills 
having  the  equipment  of  those  of  the 
second  division.  The  yarns  for  this 
fabric  do  not  have  to  be  combed.  They 
are  made  from  cotton  of  a  middling 
grade  of  1  to  1  1-16  inch  staple.  This 
cotton  is  mixed,  as  has  been  previ- 
ously described.  The  cotton  should  be 
allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  possible 
after  opening  before  being  worked. 
The  cotton  is  passed  through  an  open- 
er and  three  processes  of  pickers.  Use 
the  usual  precaution  in  feeding  the 
opener,  being  sure  to  keep  the  pin  roll- 
er clear  of  cotton,  especially  sliver 
waste,  which  is  apt  to  wind  around 
this  roll  on  certain  makes  of  openers. 
After  passing  through  the  opener  the 
cotton  is  fed  to  the  breaker  picker. 
The  beaters  of  all  the  pickers  are  of 
the  two-bladed,  rigid  type.  The  speed 


of  the  beater  at  the  breaker  picker  is 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  end 
of  the  breaker  picker  is  42  pounds. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker,  the  speed  of  the 
beater  at  this  machine  being  also  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this 
machine  is  39  pounds  or  a  14-ounce 
lap.  The  laps  are  doubled  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  4  into  1.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  is  1,425  revolutions  per  minute. 

THE  TOTAL  WEIGHT 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or 
a  14%-ounce  lap.  An  allowance  of 
one-half  pound  either  side  of  the 
standard  total  weight  of  lap  is  made 
for  this  class  of  goods.  At  the  card 
the  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  Do  not 
make  the  card  do  the  work  of  the  pick- 
er, but  watch  to  see  that  the  speed  of 
the  beater  is  correct  and  that  the  set- 
tings of  the  feed  roll  and  grid  and 
grate  bars  are  right  to  take  out  the 
dirt,  seed  shells,  bits  of  leaves,  etc.  It 
is  too  often  that  the  licker-in  is  called 
upon  to  do  the  work  that  the  picker 
should,  and  a  kick  is  made  that  the 
cards  are  not  doing  their  duty.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  in  one  complete  rev- 
olution every  55  minutes.  The  wire  fil- 
let used  on  the  doffer  and  flats  is 
No.  34s  and  on  the  cylinder  is  No.  35s. 
Grind  and  strip  cards  as  described  in 
a  previous  article.  After  grinding,  the 
setting  points  should  be  all  gone  over. 
Do  not  have  the  flats  too  tight  or  they 
are  apt  to  cramp  and  face,  if  not  loos- 
en, the  wire  on  the  cylinder.  Be  al- 
ways sure  to  set  flats  to  cylinder  by 
the  highest  flats,  generally  five  being 
left  for  this  purpose.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be  about  50  grains 
per  yard  and  the  production  750  to  900 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 

THE  CARD  SLIVER 
is  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing,  the  doublings  being  6  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  front  roller  should  be 
about  400  revolutions  per  minute  if 
leather  is  used,  and  350  revolutions  per 
minute  if  metallic  top  rolls  are  used. 
The  drawing  should  be  sized  at  least 
twice  a  day  and  four  times  a  day  is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


655 


better.  The  setting  of  the  bottom  steel 
rolls  should  be  especially  looked  after, 
as  well  as  the  knock-off  motions,  to  see 
that  no  single  is  allowed  to  pass.  If 
these  motions  are  not  in  perfect  work- 
ing order  single  will  be  allowed  to 
pass,  which  will  throw  your  numbers 
all  out  and  cause  a  great  deal  of  trou- 
ble to  remedy.  When  changing  the 
draft  to  change  weight,  always  have 
same  size  draft  gear  on  machines  run- 
ning the  same  kind  of  work.  The 
weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver  is  70 
grains.  The  drawing  sliver  is  drawn 
into  .60  hank  roving  at  the  slubber. 
Watch 

THE  TRAVERSE  MOTION 

to  see  that  it  is  in  working  condition. 
After  passing  the  slubber,  the  roving 
is  passed  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  at  each  process  being 
2  at  the  first  and  6.50  hank  at  the  sec- 
ond for  the  warp  yarn  and  8  hank  for 
the  filling  yarn.  Size  these  yarns  once 
a  day  and  be  sure  to  keep  them  on  the 
mark.  Watch  the  build  of  bobbins, 
traverse  motion,  rolls  and  setting  of 
same.  The  roving  for  warp  yarn  is 
made  in  34s  on  a  frame  with  a  1% 
inch  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch  traverse, 
27.70  turns  per  inch  and  spindle  speed 
of  10,200  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and 
slashed.  The  filling  is  spun  into  38s 
on  a  frame  having  a  Ig-inch  diameter 
ring,  51/4-inch  traverse,  23.12  twist  per 
inch  and  spindle  speed  of  8,800  revo- 
lutions per  minute. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
PINK. 
Four    ounces   Erika   G.;    15    pounds 
Glauber's;    2  pounds  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue 
FF. ;  15  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cem 
sal  soda. 

MAUVE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  violet  N. ; 
15  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
One-quarter     per     cent     diamineral 
blue  R.;  1-16  per  cent  diamine  fast  yel- 


low B.;    10  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  FAWN. 

One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  cate- 
chine  G. ;  %  per  cent  diamineral  brown 
G. ;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal   soda. 

SLATE. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
black  BH. ;  i/4  per  cent  diamine  fast 
yellow  B.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent   sal   soda. 

PEA  GREEN. 

One -half  per  cent  diamine  green  G.; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

ECRU. 

One-eighth  per  cent  diamine  cate- 
chine  3  G. ;  %  per  cent  diamine  cate- 
chine  B.;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  sal   soda. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  blue  3R.;  2 
per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G. ;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SEAL    BROWN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  catechine  B.; 
2  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  1  per  cent  diamine 
fast   yellow   A. 

WINE. 

Five  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 

Four  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  2  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY   BLUE. 

Five  per  cent  diamine  black  BH. ;  1 
per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G.;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  jet  black 
00.;  3  per  cent  diamine  jet  black  SS.; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  2V^  per  cent  sal 
soda. 


656 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Five  per  cent  diamine  black  HW. ;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow 


BEIGE 


Under  the  head  of  beige  is  a  class 
of  dress  goods,  the  characteristic  of 
which  is  their  mottled  or  mixed  effect. 
This  effect  is  brought  about  by  various 
methods.  The  method  used  in  produc- 
ing the  effect  largely  influences  the 
quality  of  the  fabric,  but  the  general 
appearance  remains  the  same. 

We  will  describe  beige  as  made  by 


Fig.  1. 

three  different  methods:  First,  this 
fabric  is  originally  made  of  yarns  spun 
from  wool  dyed  in  the  stock;  this  dyed 
stock  is  then  mixed  with  undyed  stock, 
then  spun  into  a  thread;  generally  sev- 
eral mixtures  go  into  one  fabric. 

These  mixtures  of  dyed  and  undyed 
stock  are  varied.  The  proportions 
used  may  be  50  per  cent  of  each;  an- 
other mixture  may  have  a  more  or  less 
percentage  of  either  stock;  and  an- 
other mixture  may  be  composed  of 
still  a  different  percentage  from  the 
first  two. 

The  threads  then  spun  from  these 
mixtures  are  arranged  in  some  order 


in  the  warping  and  also  in  the  weav- 
ing, producing  what  are  commonly 
known  as  indefinite  plaid  effects  in 
connection  with  the  mixed  or  mottled 
effects. 

THE  SECOND  METHOD 

is  to  use  a  combination  of  twist  yams, 
usually  three  or  four  different  colored 
threads,  as,  for  example,  black  and 
white,  black  and  slate,  slate  and 
white,  and  the  other  may  be  a  pearl 
and  white.  These  combinations  of 
threads  may  be  arranged  similar  to 
the  arrangement  in  the  first  method, 
likewise  producing  an  indefinite  plaid 
effect.  The  use  of  black  and  white, 
slate  and  white,  and  colors  of  similar 
shades,  produces  gray  effects.  Grays 
and  browns  are  the  prevailing  colors 
in  this  class  of  goods.  The  colored 
yarn  used  in  this  particular  class  is 
usually  worsted,  while  the  white  in 
most  cases  is  a  cotton  thread. 

THE    THIRD    METHOD 
of  producing  this  mixed  or  mottled  ef- 
fect is  brought  about  by  printing  the 
goods. 

This  method  is  usually  practiced  on 
the  cheaper  grade  of  goods,  goods 
composed  entirely  of  cotton  yarn;  the 
effect,  however,  imitates  very  closely 
the  wool  dyed  in  the  stock  fabric  or 
the  goods  composed  of  twist  yarns. 
In  the  finer  grade  of  fabrics  the  twill 
weave  is  much  in  evidence,  whlie  the 
cotton  goods  are  mostly  woven  plain. 
The  plain  weave  is  more  adapted  to 
the  particular  character  of  printing; 
in  order  to  give  the  plaid  effect  in  con- 
nection with  the  mixed  or  mottled  ap- 
pearance, the  goods  are  subjected  to 
two  processes  of  printing: 

ANALYSIS   OF   COTTON  BEIGE. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  36  inches; 
reed,  1,000  by  2;  number  of  ends  in 
warp.  2,076;  28  ends  each  selvage 
equals  56;  total  ends  in  warp,  2,132. 
Number  of  ends  per  inch  finished,  60; 
picks  per  inch  finished,  48;  take-up  of 
warp  during  weaving,  12  per  cent; 
warp  and  filling  yarn  1-26.  The  1,000 
reed  means  1,000  dents  in  36  inches 
of  reed.  The  2,076  is  the  number  of 
ends  in  warp  without  the  selvage. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


657 


Fig.  1.  Sample  of  fabric  as  produced 
by  means  of  twist  yarns;  the  fabric 
Is  plain  woven. 

LOOM   USED. 

For  the  better  grade  of  fabrics  the 
pick  and  pick  loom  is  required  to  give 
the  best  effects.  The  goods  woven 
pick  and  pick  will  be  less  Inclined  to 
appear  stripy;  this  effect  would  be  un- 
desirable; the  stripes  should  be  of  an 
indefinite  nature. 

The  sample  of  fabric  shown  in  Fig. 
1  is  woven  on  a  4  x  1  box  loom,  in 
which  no  less  than  two  picks  of  one 
color  must  be  woven  before  it  changes 
onto  the  next  color;  unless  the  colors 
are  carefully  graded  they  will  produce 
a  fabric  more  or  less  striped.  In  the 
printed  cotton  beige  fabric  a  single 
box  loom  fills  the  requirements.  This 
grade  of  goods  is  woven  with  un- 
dyed  yarns;  the  effect,  as  already 
mentioned,  is  produced  by  the  printing 
machine  after  the  goods  are  woven. 

FINISHING. 
The  cotton  fabric,  after  it  is  woven, 
is  boiled  off,  after  wnich  it  is  slightly 
stiffened,  then  subjected  to  the  print- 
ing machine,  after  which  it  is  pressed, 
then  made  up  into  laps  or  rolls  and 
then   shipped. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Beige  is  a  dress  goods  generally 
made  from  wool  and  sometimes  of 
wool  and  cotton,  other  grades  being 
made  from  all-cotton  yarns.  The  cot- 
ton is  dyed  in  the  stock.  Some  of  the 
grades  of  beige  are  made  from  combed 
yarn,  whereas  other  grades  are  made 
from  carded  yarns.  The  staple  of  the 
cotton  does  not  exceed  1  1-16  inches  in 
length  for  an  American  cotton.  Mix: 
cotton  as  has  been  previously  stated. 
Three  processes  of  pickers  are  used, 
the  particulars  being  the  same  as  giv- 
en for  etamine.  The  particulars  for 
the  cards  and  drawing  frames  as  given 
in  that  article  may  also  be  followed. 

AT   THE    SLUBBER 
the   drawing    sliver   is    made   into    .60 
hank  roving,  and  is  then  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames  or  speed- 
ers, the  hank  roving  at  the  first  Inter- 


mediate being  1.75  and  at  the  second 
intermediate  5  hank.  Speeders  should 
be  looked  after  to  see  that  the  rolls 
are  properly  set;  that  top  rolls  are  in 
good  condition;  that  there  are  no  dead 
spindles;  that  the  spindles  are  oiled 
once  a  day;  the  build  of  bobbin  cor- 
rect; traverse  motion  working  prop- 
erly, and  frame  at  all  times  clean  and 
neat.  The  bobbins  when  doffed  should 
not  be  thrown  into  doffing  box  or 
truck,  but  should  be  packed  in.  The 
boxes  or  trucks  should  be  cleaned  out 
before  doffing.  After  changing  a  frame 
from  one  kind  of  work  to  another  the 
new  roving  should  be  sized  and  tested 
for  twist,  and  the  tension  watched. 
After  the  speeders  the  yarn  is  put 
through 

THE  SPINNING  FRAME, 

where  the  proper  colors  of  yarns  are 
doubled  together  and  spun  into  26s 
yarn,  the  warp  frame  having  the  fol- 
lowing particulars:  Length  of  trav- 
erse, 61/^  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1% 
inches;  gauge  of  frame,  21  inches,  and 
spindle  speed  of  9,700  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  slashed.  For  the  filling 
frame  use  a  2|-inch  gauge  of  frame; 
11 -inch  diameter  ring;  6-inch  trav- 
erse and  a  spindle  speed  of  8,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  the  diameter  of 
the  front  bottom  steel  roll  of  spinning 
frames  being  one  inch  for  both  warp 
and  filling. 

Dyeing    Particulars — Yarn    Dyeing. 

*  NAVY    BLUE. 
Four   per   cent    naphtamine   blue    2 
B. ;   30  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

MEDIUM    BROWN. 
Three   per   cent   naphtamine   brown 
N. ;  1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  NN. ; 
20  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

RED. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  BB.; 
25  per  cent  salt;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK   BROWN. 
Four  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  6 
B. ;   25  per  cent  salt;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 


658 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


SLATE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine  black  D.;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

OLIVE. 
Three  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine  oliv©  R. ;  20  per  cent  salt;   2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  immedial  green  GG. ;   6 
per  cent  sulphide  soda;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  25  per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK  BOTTLE  GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green;  8  per 
cent  sulphide   soda;    2   per  cent  soda 
ash;   25  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G. ;    20  per  cent  salt;    2   per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  XN. ; 
10   per    cent   sulphide   sodium;    3   per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
MAROON. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G. ; 
6  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
LIGHT   BLUE. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  FF.; 
6  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;    30  per  cent  salt. 

Printing    Particulars. 

Cotton  beige  is  also  printed  on  the 
piece.  To  get  a  good  imitation  of  the 
woven  fabric,  it  has  to  be'  printed  on 
both  sides  of  the  piece.  After  print- 
ing one  side  of  the  fabric  and  drying, 
the  pieces  are  rolled  up  on  a  roller 
and  the  other  side  of  the  piece  is 
printed,  so  that  both  sides  of  the  piece 
present  the  same  appearance.  The 
goods  are  given  a  soft  finish  to  imitate 
a  piece  of  dress  goods.  The  colors 
printed  on  are  made  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible, so  that  the  goods  can  be  wash- 
ed when  required. 

The  goods  are  printed,  dried  and 
steamed  in  a  Mather  and  Piatt  at  212 
degrees  F.,  excluding  the  air  as  far  as 
possible.  Wash  in  cold  water,  soap 
lukewarm,  rinse  and  dry. 


BLUE. 

Seventy  parts  immedial  indone  BN.; 
stir  well  to  a  paste  with  20  parts  cans 
tic  soda  lye,  77  degrees  Tw.;  50  parts 
glycerine;  then  add  150  parts  reducing 
paste  A.  The  whole  is  heated  for 
some  time  to  140  degrees  F.  and  cool- 
ed; stir  in  80  parts  China  clay;  60 
parts  saturated  solution  of  common 
salt;  570  parts  alkaline  gum  thicken- 
ing. 

GREEN. 

Ninety  parts  immedial  green  GG.; 
300  parts  alkaline  gum  thickening;  40 
parts  China  clay;  30  parts  saturated 
common  salt  solution;  150  parts  re- 
ducing paste  A.;  mix  and  stir;  when 
cool  add  40  parts  China  clay;  30  parts 
saturated  common  salt  solution;  320 
parts  alkaline  green  thickening. 
BLACK. 

Seventy  parts  immedial  black  NLN.; 
150  parts  reducing  paste  A.;  heat  to- 
gether to  120  degrees  F.;  allow  to  cool 
down,  then  stir  in  a  mixture  of  160 
parts  China  clay;  120  parts  saturated 
solution  of  salt;  500  parts  alkaline 
gum  thickening. 

BROWN. 

Mix  as  the  blue  with  70  parts  imme- 
dictl  brown  B.;  10  parts  immedial  yel- 
low  D. 

DARK  SLATE. 

Thirty  parts  immedial  black  NB.; 
mix  as  the  green. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 

Ten  parts  immedial  black  NG. ;  2 
parts  immedial  direct  blue  B. ;  mix  as 
the  green.  j 

ECRU. 

Five  parts  immedial  yellow  D. ;  2 
parts  immedial  cutch  G. ;  mix  as  the 
green. 

OLIVE. 

Fifty  parts  immedial  olive  B. ;  20 
parts  immedial  bronze  A.;  mix  as  the 
green. 

BRONZE. 

Forty    parts    bronze    A.;     10     parts 
cutch  G. ;   mix  as  the  green. 
FAWN. 

Fifty  parts  immedial  cutch  O.;  10 
parts  immedial  brown  RR.;  mix  as  the 
green. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


659 


LIGHT  BLUE. 
Forty  parts  immedial  sky  blue;  mix 
as  the  green. 

♦  »  » 


POPLIN 


Poplin  is  a  name  given  to  a  class  of 
goods  distinguished  by  a  rep,  rib,  or 
cord  effect  running  width  way  of  the 
piece.  It  referred  originally  to  a  fabric 
having  a  silk  warp  and  a  figure  of 
wool  filling  heavier  than  the  warp.  At 
the  present  time  it  refers  more  to  a 
ribbed  fabric  than  to  one  made  from 
any  particular  combination  of  mate- 
rials. 

Cotton  poplin  is  usually  made  with 
a  plain  weave,  the  rep  effect  being  ob- 
tained either  by  using  a  fine  warp,  as 
compared  with  the  filling,  or  a  large 
number  of  ends,  as  compared  wit'n 
picks  per  inch,  or  both. 

IRISH   POPLIN, 

made  principally  in  Dublin,  is  a  fabric 
made  of  China  organzine  silk  warp  and 
colonial  wool  filling.  The  manufacture 
of  this  cloth  has  continued  in  Dublin 
since  1693,  when  a  number  of  Hugue- 
not silk  w-eavers  emigrated  from  Lyons, 
France.  The  industry  is  still  carried 
on  there  to  some  extent  on  hand  looms, 
the  weavers  owning  their  own  looms. 
The  materials  are  supplied  by  the 
firms  for  whom  they  work  and  are 
given  out  ready  for  weaving.  The  Irish 
poplin  is  a  light-weight  variety  of  pop- 
lin, sometimes  called  single  poplin, 
and  is  celebrated  for  its  uniformly 
fine  and  excellent  wearing  qualities. 

Brocaded  poplin  is  made  with  elab- 
orate jacquard  designs  of  various 
types. 

TERRY  POPLIN 

is  a  very  durable  fabric,  made  on  the 
principle  of  cloth  construction  ex- 
plained in  the  article  on  "Terry  Pile 
Fabrics."  By  throwing  to  the  surface 
alternate  ends  of  the  silk  warp  an  ap- 
pearance somewhat  resembling  terry 
velvet  is  obtained. 

The  bulk  of  cotton  poplin  goods  are 
woven   and    finished    white.     Poplins 

7,000    (grs.   per   lb.)    x   2.5    (yds.) 
2.940   (grs.) 


formerly  were  woven  from  yarns 
which  had  previously  been  bleached  or 
dyed,  as  the  case  may  be,  but  to-day 
these  fabrics  are  largely  made  from 
grey  yarns  and  then  bleached  and 
piece  dyed.  The  construction  of  such 
fabrics  is  not  widely  different  from 
that  formerly  noted,  but  the  product 
is  undoubtedly  made  more  economical- 
ly and  the  colors  produced  are  just 
as  satisfactory,  if  not  more  so,  than 
those  on  some  of  the  older  styles  of 
goods.  A  large  proportion  of  the  pop- 
lin fabrics  made  from  combed  yarns 
are  piece  mercerized,  for  this  makes 
a  luster  on  the  cloth,  and  creates  a 
greater  sale.  Some  fabrics  are  made 
with  combed  warp  and  carded  filling, 
others  from  all  combed  stock,  while 
others  are  entirely  carded  material. 
The  fabrics  are  mercerized  in  the  warp 
direction,  and  the  warp  yarn  is  soft 
twisted  to  aid  in  producing  a  high 
luster.  Because  the  yarn  is  soft  twist- 
ed, it  is  a  general  policy  to  have  it 
two-ply,  that  is,  60-2  soft  twist  warp 
will  be  used  in  place  of  30-1.  It  used 
to  be  true  that  the  heavy  filling  and 
rather  light  warp  did  not  take  the  dye 
evenly,  and  while  there  is  a  certain 
amount  of  objection  to-day  because  of 
this  fact,  nevertheless  the  results  are 
satisfactory  in  the  majority  of  in- 
stances. 

For  a  given  length  of  poplin  cloth 
a  much  greater  length  of  warp  is  re- 
quired than  for  an  equal  length  of 
cloth  where  the  warp  and  filling  yarns 
and  ends  and  picks  are  practically 
equal,  because  the  coarse  filling  lies  in 
the  cloth  in  practically  a  straight  line, 
the  warp  yarns  having  to  do  all  thu 
deflecting. 

The  analysis  of  a  typical  cotton  pop- 
lin of  good  quality  shows  the  following 
data:  Ends  per  inch,  104;  picks  per 
inch,  48;  finished  width,  27  inches; 
weight  about  6  yards  per  pound;  warp 
yarns,  2-68s;  filling  yarns,  2-60s.  Plain 
weave. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 
2%  yards  weigh  2,940  grains. 

=    5.95,    aay,    6    yards   per    pound. 


660 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


To  find  average  counts  of  yarn,  as- 
suming the  warp  yarn  to  have  con- 
tracted 10  per  cent  in  length  from 
warp  to  finished  cloth,  and  the  filling  4 
per  cent  in  width: 

104    (ends)    divided    by    .90 115.55 

48   (picks)   divided  by  .96 50.00 


To  find  weight  of  100 -yard  cut: 

11.18   lbs.    warp. 
5.45   lbs.    filling. 


165.55 
165.55  X  27.5   (width)  x  6   (weight) 


16.63   lbs.    yarn    in    100    yards   of   cloth. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 

100    -=-    16.63    =    6    yards   per   pound. 


=   32.5   average  counts. 


In  dealing  with  the  preceding  cal- 
culations it  has  been  considered  that 
the  yarns  were  mercerized  before  be- 
ing woven,  and  the  counts  indicated 
after  mercerizing.  The  mercerizing 
process  tends  to  contract  the  length 
of  yarn  to  a  greater  or  less  degree, 
depending  upon  the  quality  of  the  yarn, 
the  mercerizing  liquor,  and  the  ma- 
chinery used.  If  mercerized  under 
tension,  there  is  not  a  very  large  con- 
traction, but  if  the  y.'.rn  is  allowed  to 
contract  it  may  do  so  to  the  extent  of 
20  to  30  per  cent,  that  is,  a  cotton 
yarn  spun  to  50s  may  contract  in  the 
mercerizing  bath  to  40s  or  35s  yarn. 

Both  warp  and  filling  in  the  sample 
under  consideration  are  mercerized, 
and  are  2-ply  yarns  of  good  quality. 

To  find  the  counts  of  filling  required 
to  give  the  stated  weight,  assuming 
the  warp  yarn  to  be  2-ply  68s: 

165.55   divided  by   32.5   (ave.   counts) 5.09 

115.55  (sley)  divided  by  34  (warp  counts)     3.39 


Fifty  divided  by  1.70  equals  29.4 
equals  2-59s  filling  required.  The 
counts  would  be  indicated  as  2-60s. 

The  selvages  consist  of  eight  dou- 
ble ends  on  each  side. 

To  find  number  of  ends  in  warp: 

104     (ends    per    inch)    x    27.5     (cloth    width) 
2,860    +    16    for  selvage    =    2,876,    total   ends. 

To  find  weight  of  warp  in  100  yards 
of  cloth. 

2,876    (ends)   x  100   (yards) 


840   X  34    (counts)    x  .90   (10%    (contraction) 


LOOM    REQUIRED. 

For  plain  weave  poplins  an  ordinary 
plain  cam  loom  is  required,  one  warp 
and  one  filling  being  sufiicient.  It  is 
not  advisable  to  use  automatic  looms 
unless  the  same  are  equipped  to 
change  the  cop  or  bobbin  before  the 
preceding  one  has  spent  itself,  be- 
cause a  mispick  is  one  of  the  defects 
that  shows  most  prominently  in  this 
class  of  goods. 

FINISHING. 

The  fabric  under  consideration,  hav- 
ing been  bleached  and  mercerized  in 
the  yarn,  requires  very  little  after- 
treatment.  It  is  washed,  conditioned, 
calendered  lightly  and  made  up,  book 
fold. 

The  finishing  of  any  fabric  depends 
largely  upon  the  methods  through 
which  it  was  produced.  If  a  poplin  is 
produced  with  dyed  and  mercerized 
yarns,  such  as  is  noted  on  drapery 
materials  and  similar  articles,  there 
is  very  little  description  necessary 
regarding  the  finishing  processes.  Tne 
fact  that  many  poplins  are  now  made 
from  grey  yams  makes  the  finishing 
much  different  from  that  upon  the 
yarn  dyed  material.  The  fabric  is 
usually  mercerized  in  the  grey  state, 
then  bleached  and  dyed  the  color 
which  is  desired.  Large  quantities  of 
these  fabrics  have  been  sold,  in  fact  it 

=     11.18     lbs.     warp. 


To  find  weight  of  filling  in  100  yards      is  considered  one  of  the  staple  articles 
of  cloth:  in  the  trade  to-day. 


48   (picks)   X  27.5   (cloth  width)   x  100   (yds). 
840  X  30  (counts)  x  .96  (4%  contraction) 


=   5.45  lbs.    filling. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


661 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

When  making  tue  yarns  for  poplin 
the  same  particulars  may  be  followed 
as  have  been  previously  given  in  the 
article  on  "Lawn."  For  this  par- 
ticular grade  of  poplin  the  warp  yarn 
is  2-68s  and  the  filling  yarn  2-60s. 
Use  the  instructions  given  for  making 
60s  warp  yarn,  with  the  following  ex- 
ceptions. The  spinning  frame  for  the 
warp  yarn  would  be  as  follows:  For 
making  68s  warp  yarn,  If  inches 
diameter  of  ring;   5i^  length  of  trav- 


GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  green  G.;    6  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
BLUE. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  blue  B.;  6  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  'L  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

ECRU. 
One-half   per   cent   immedial    cate- 
chine  G. ;   1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium; 
2  per  cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 


Poplin. 


erse,  and  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  twisted  into  2-ply,  the 
twist  put  in  being  39.17  turns  per  inch. 
After  being  twisted,  the  yarn  is  warp- 
ed and  slashed.  For  spinning  the  60s 
filling  yarn  use  a  frame  having  a  1^- 
inch  diameter  ring,  5-inch  traverse,  27 
twists  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8,000  revolutions  per  minute.  This  yam 
is  spooled  and  twisted  into  2-60s,  after 
which  it  is  conditioned  and  is  then 
ready  for  use. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

BRONZE. 

Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 


OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.;  ti 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D. ;  y^  per 
cent  immedial  catechine  G.;  9  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Eight  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B.;   8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per   cent  thion   black  T  B.;    2 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per  cent 
soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 


662 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F.; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
SEA  GREEN. 
One-half    per   cent   immedial   green 
B.;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 


COTTON-MOHAIR  FABRICS 

Mohair  fabrics,  commonly  so  call- 
ed, are  used  exclusively  for  dress 
goods,  in  the  form  of  tailor-made  suits, 
skirts,  children's  coats,  etc. 

The  name,  mohair,  is  acquired  from 
the  material  used  in  the  construction 
of  the  fabric.     This  material,  mohair. 


wool;  in  brief,  it  may  be  described  as 
a  long,  straight,  glossy  animal  fibre. 
These  fabrics 

VARY  CONSIDERABLY 

in  regard  to  quality,  style  and  width, 
but  all  are  plain  woven  fabrics.  Some 
are  elaborated  into  spot  patterns  by 
means  of  the  filling  fioating  over  a 
given  number  of  ends  in  some  geo- 
metrical form. 

Again,  the  spots  may  be  formed  by 
the  use  of  an  extra  warp.  This  warp 
fioats  on  the  back  of  the  fabric  for 
a  given  space,  then  comes  to  the  face 
for  a  required  number  of  picks.  This 
extra  warp  is  usually  mercerized,  the 
yarn  differing  in  color  from  the  body 
of  warp  and  being  arranged  in  groups 


Fig.   1. 


the  product  of  the  Angora  goat,  is 
used  principally  in  the  filling  only; 
the  warp  may  be  cotton,  worsted,  or 
silk,  according  to  the  quality  of  fabric 
wanted. 

The  characteristics  of  mohair  fab- 
rics are  their  crispness  and  glossy  ap- 
pearance. These  features  are  effected 
by  the  mohair.  Mohair,  like  wool,  is 
an  animal  fibre,  but  differs  from  the 
latter  in  so  far  that  the  fibres  are 
longer  and  coarser  than  wool,  and  mo- 
hair is  not  as  soft  or  as  crinkled  as 


of  two  or  more  ends  across  the  entire 
breadth  of  warp.  These  groups  of 
threads  may  alternate,  as,  for  exam- 
ple, one  group  may  be  yellow,  the  next 
green,  another  red  or  any  color  that 
may  strike  the  fancy  of  the  designer, 
providing  that  the  color  thus  used 
produces  some  degree  of  harmony. 
This  will  give  plenty  of  variety  to 
the  fabric,  and  if  these  various  groups 
of  threads  are  made  to  work  on  some 
sateen  or  broken  twill  order,  they  will 
give   the   appearance   of   a   large   do- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


663 


sign,  or,  as  generally  mentioned,  a 
jacquard  effect.  In  filling  floated  fab- 
rics, it  is  most  important  that  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  figure  should  be  so 
that  the  eye  is  not  attracted  by  lines 
formed  by  the  unequal  distribution  of 
the  figure.  This  objectional  feature  is 
most  likely  to  occur  in  designs  of  this 
character.  It  is  somewhat  diflBcult  to 
tell  if  the  distribution  is  perfect  with- 
out extending  the  design  for  four  or 
even  more  repeats.  In  designs  which 
consist  of  set  figures,  the  difiiculty  of 
arrangement  is  somewhat  eliminated 
by  arranging  the  figure  on  some  irreg- 
ular sateen  basis,  the  irregular  sateen 
being  preferred  to  the  regular  sateen 
basis  as  the  former  gives  a  somewhat 
stiff  appearance,  the  latter  giving  a 
mixed  effect  more  suitable  for  this 
class  of  fabrics.  Figure  1  shows  one 
repeat  of  the  design  the  spot  based  on 
a  5-harness  sateen  order.  Figure  2 
shows  one  repeat  of  figure  based  on 

' broken  twill.    Figure  2  presents 

a  more  mixed  effect  than  Figure  1. 


jJWV[ 


-Rji  •  "■^■L*^"  ::-"T» 


Fig.  2. 

Considerable  quantities  of  mohair 
are  woven  plain  throughout.  In  this 
style  of  fabrics  the  ornamentation,  If 
such  is  desired,  is  effected  by  means 
of  twist  or  fancy  colored  threads  ar- 
ranged in  some  order,  usually  in  the 
warp  only,  though  a  similar  arrange- 
ment may  be  carried  out  in  regard  to 
the      filling.       These    fancy     colored 


threads  may  be  arranged  in  almost 
any  way  possible;  the  object,  how- 
ever, is  to  have  a  fine  hair-line  stripe 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  fabric. 
Still  another  method  of  breaking  the 
monotony  of  a  plain  fabric  is  to  skip 
a  dent  in  the  reed  at  certain  inter- 
vals; this  may  be  carried  out  with 
fancy  colored  threads  if  desired. 
These  fabrics,  as  mentioned  above,  ar^ 
made  in  various  qualities.  We  will 
here  deal  with  the  cotton  warp  and 
mohair  filling  fabric.  This  particular 
class  is  usually  piece-dyed.  The  warp, 
however,  is  dyed  before  it  is  beamed. 
When  twist  yarn  is  used,  that  is,  a 
twist  composed  of  two  different  col- 
ored threads,  one  of  the  two  threads 
in  some  fabrics  is  a  worsted  thread; 
when  such  is  the  fact,  the  warp  is 
not  dyed  until  woven  into  the  fabric; 
the  cotton  end  composing  one  of  the 
twist  threads  will  not  take  the  color 
in  a  worsted  dye.  When  cotton  only  is 
used  in  the  twist  one  of  the  threads 
is  dyed  before  it  is  twisted,  that  is,  if 
a  colored  and  white  thread  is  to  be 
the  twist  wanted. 

ANALYSIS  OF  COTTON  MOHAIR. 

Width  in  reed,  Q0\^  inches;  width 
finished,  54  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  44;  ends  in  warp,  2,660;  ends  in 
selvage,  78  (39  each  side,  3  in  a  dent); 
total  ends,  2,738;   reed,  44  x  1. 

Dressing    2    ends    black 

1  end    black,    white 

2  ends    black 

1  end    black,    white 

2  ends    black 

1  end    black,    white 

2  ends    black 

1  end    black,    white 

2  ends    black 

2  ends  black,    white 

16 
Ends  in   warp. 

1,664   black    cotton     10   2-80 

996   black    white   cotton    6   2-80 

78   bleached   cotton    0   2-80 

2.7.?S  16 

Filling  1  ■15s  mohair,  48  picks. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 

The  plain  mohair,  or  the  fabric  in 
which  the  ornamentation  is  effected  by 
means  of  fancy  colored  threads,  may 
be  woven  on  any  light-weight  loom; 
the  roller,  dobby  or  automatic  loom 
may  be  used  to  advantage.  The  loom 
could   make  better  cloth  If  it  had   a 


664 


A  CbTfON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


warp  stop -motion,  as  it  is  very  im- 
portant that  no  ends  be  left  out  in  the 
weaving;  if  they  are,  they  must  be 
sewed  in  before  the  fabric  is  finished, 
thus  entailing  another  expense. 

Fancy  figured   mohair   requires   the 

use  of  a  jacquard  loom,  on  account  of 

the  number  of  ends  in  the  repeat  of 

the  pattern,  which  would  be  too  great 

'for  the  dobby  loom. 

The  warp  for  mohair  fabrics  is 
reeded  one  end  in  one  dent,  and  wo- 
ven with  considerable  tension  on  the 
warp  beam. 

FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  is  woven  it  is  ex- 
amined and  mended  if  necessary,  then 
scoured,  after  which  it  is  dyed.  These 
fabrics  are  dyed  in  various  colors  and 
shades.  After  the  dyeing  process,  the 
fabrics  are  sheared  on  the  face,  then 
doubled  and  made  up  into  rolls,  ready 
for  the  market, 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Mohair  is  composed  of  all  mohair  or 
a  cheaper  grade  which  is  made  up  of 
mohair  and  cotton.  The  count  of  the 
yarn  used  for  the  sample  under  de- 
scription is  composed  of  l-15s  mohair 
filling  and  2 -80s  warp  yarn.  The  yarn 
for  the  warp  is  made  in  cotton  mills 
of  either  the  first  or  second  division 
as  classified  in  a  previous  article. 
The  yarn  is  made  from  an  American 
cotton,  either  peeler  or  Allen  seed 
being  used.  The  staple  is  1%  inches, 
and  cotton  should  be  of  a  good  grade. 
As  this  cotton  is  apt  to  be  very  dirty, 
it  is  generally  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  picking. 

THE   MIXING 

should  be  as  large  as  possible,  and  if 
possible  the  mixing  should  be  allowed 
to  stand  for  at  least  three  days  before 
using,  so  that  it  may  dry  out  and  ex- 
pand. If  this  is  done  it  will  be  found 
that  the  cotton  is  easier  to  work  and 
the  dirt  will  be  taken  out  very  much 
easier.  At  the  mixing  be  sure  that  the 
grades  of  the  cotton  of  each  bale  are 
the  same  and  do  not  under  any  cir- 
cumstances use  a  creamy  bale.  Each 
bale  should  be  stapled  before  being 
put  into  the  mix  to  see  that  it  is  up 


to  staple.  Keep  the  hopper  of  the 
opener  well  filled  with  cotton,  so  as 
to  obtain  as  even  a  feed  as  possible. 
The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
at  the  breaker  picker  for  this  stock 
is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
beater  used  being  of  a  two-bladed 
type.  The  weight  of  a  40-yard  lap  at 
the  front  of  the  breaker  is  40  pounds 
or  a  16-ounce  lap.  At  the  interme- 
diate picker,  the  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  1,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  lap  at  the  front  weighing  STYz 
pounds  or  a  12 -ounce  lap.  At  the  fin- 
isher picker  tlie  speed  of  the  beater  is 
1,350  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  lap  is  35  pounds  or 
a  121/^ -ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher  pick- 
er the  good  waste  laps,  or,  as  they 
are  sometimes  called,  cut-roving  waste 
laps,  are  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock,, 
one  lap  cut  waste  to  three  laps  of  good 
cotton.  In  mills  that  do  not  have  a 
roving  waste  picker  it  is 

THE  GENERAL  CUSTOM 
to  take  out  the  middle  two  laps  and 
spread  the  cut  waste  evenly  in  this 
span  and  use  up  the  waste  in  this 
manner.  These  laps  are  sometimes 
put  up  at  the  cards,  but  the  general 
custom  is  to  put  them  through  the  fin- 
isher picker  again  in  the  proportion 
named  above.  A  variation  of  not  more 
than  one-half  a  pound  either  side  of 
standard  is  allowed,  every  lap  being 
weighed.  If  the  laps  weigh  over  or 
under  this  allowance  they  should  be 
run  over  again.  This  point  cannot  be 
looked  into  too  closely,  and  it  will 
save  a  lot  of  trouble  in  the  evenness 
of  the  numbers  at  the  fine  frames  and 
in  the  spinning  room.  The  laps  from 
the  picker  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD, 
the  speed  of  the  licker-in  being  350 
revolutions  per  minute;  speed  of  flats, 
one  complete  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes (110  flats).  The  cards  should  be 
properly  set,  ground  and  stripped  at 
least  three  times  a  day.  Keep  the 
wire  sharp  at  all  times,  and  it  Is  a 
good  plan  to  grind  the  flats  on  a  spe- 
cial grinding  machine  for  flats,  they 
being  taken  off  the  cards  for  this  pur- 
pose.   The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


665 


card  is  45  grains  per  yard.  As  the  sliv- 
er is  to  be  combed,  the  card  sliver  is 
put  up  at  the  sliver  lap  machine, 
where  it  is  doubled  14  into  1  (i.  «., 
for  an  85-inch  width  lap).  The  weight 
of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  is  290 
grains.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  six 
into  1,  the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at 
this  machine  being  275  grains.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber  and 
doubled  according  to  the  number  of 
heads  the  comber  has.  The  percentage 
of  waste  taken  out  at  this  machine  is 
18  per  cent.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
is  35  grains  per  yard.  This  sliver  is 
put  through  two  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 

the  doublings  at  each  process  gener- 
ally being  6  into  1,  although  some  mills 
double  8  into  1  at  the  breaker  and  6 
into  1  at  the  finisher.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  should  be  70  grains  per  yard. 
Either  metallic  or  leather  top  rolls 
may  be  used  for  this  class  of  work, 
generally  the  latter  being  used.  See 
that  the  leather  top  rolls  on  all  ma- 
chines are  in  perfect  shape  and  well 
varnished;  size  the  ribbon  laps  at 
least  once  a  day  and  drawing  frames 
four  times  a  day.  The  drawing  sliver 
Is  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  drawn 
into  .55  hank  roving,  after  which  it  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  made  at  each 
process  being  as  follows:  First  inter- 
mediate, 1.50;  2d,  4.50  and  fine  frame 
16  hank.  This  yarn  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  frame  and  spun  into  80s  on 
a  frame  with  a  25-inch  gauge  of  frame, 
IS-inch  diameter  ring,  5 V^ -inch  trav- 
erse and  spindle  speed  of  9,600  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  twisted  into  2-ply  SOs 
yarn,  many  times  two  different  col- 
ored yarns  being  twisted  together.  The 
yarn  is  then  respooled  and  run  upon  a 
beam,  after  which  the  beams  are  put 
through  the  slasher  and  sized. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
MEDIUM  BROWN. 
Three   per   cent   naphtamine   brown 
N.;  1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  NN.; 


20    per   cent   salt;    2    per    cent    sal 
soda. 

DARK  BROWN. 
Four  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  6 
B. ;    25  per  cent  salt;    2   per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine black  D.;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

OLIVE. 
Three  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine olive  R.;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  BOTTLE  GREEN. 
Eight   per   cent  immedial  green;    8 
per   cent    sulphide    soda;    2    per   cent 
soda  ash;   25  per  cent  salt. 
Bi^ACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  NN.; 
10   per   cent    sulphide  sodium;    3   per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
MAROON. 
Six  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G.; 
6    per   cent   sulphide    sodium;     2    per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 


HERRINGBONE  STRIPES 

Herringbone  stripes  are  certain 
weave  effects  resembling  herring- 
bones. They  are  developed  to  the 
greatest  extent  in  men's  wear  fabrics, 
woolens,  worsteds,  cotton  worsteds 
and  all  cottons,  although  in  these 
goods  the  arrangements  of  various  col- 
ors in  the  warp  yarns  form  one  of  the 
principal  component  parts  of  the  pat- 
tern. Herringbone  weaves  in  ladies' 
dress  goods  are  usually  shown  in 
white. 

These  weaves  are  a  development  of 
ordinary  twill  weaves  in  which  the 
twills,  instead  of  running  in  one  un- 
broken line  diagonally  across  the 
piece,  run  for  a  certain  number  of  ends 
one  way  and  a  certain  number  of  ends 
in  the  reverse  direction,  thus  breaking 
the  continuity  of  the  twill.  They  dif- 
fer from  wave  effects  In  having  the 
two  ends  defining  the  turning  points 
of  the  twill  arranged  to  work  opposite 
each  other,  i.  e.,  when  one  Is  raised 
the  other  is  depressed.    This  may  be 


666 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


seen  at  the  points  indicated  by  the 
daggers  in  Figs.  1  to  5, 

The  foundation  twills  principally 
used  when  developing  these  weaves 
for  men's  wear  goods  are  the  even 
flushed  twills  ? — ^  and  ' — ^ ,  Figs.  6 
and  7,  the  former  forming  the  greater 
proportion.  Figs.  1  to  5  show  some  of 
the  other  weaves  used,  the  number  of 
ends  in  each  section  and  the  number 
of  sections  in  a  repeat  being  made  to 
vary  according  to  requirements.  The 
daggers  indicate  the  cutting  points. 

Although  the  principle  may  be  ex- 
tended to  large  weaves,  it  is  seldom 
that  the  effects  are  made  from  a 
weave  base  greater  than  eight  ends 
and  eight  picks. 

Fig.  8  illustrates  a  herringbone  ef- 
fect in  a  cotton  cloth  made  with  weave 
Fig.  1.  In  the  gray  the  warp  appears 
to  stand  up  from  the  cloth  in  the  sec- 
tions weaving  I — -  on  the  face.  This 
prominent  effect  is  modified  in  the  fin- 
ished cloth. 

Fig.  8  is  one  of  a  line  or  range  of 
patterns  made  and  finished  in  Eng- 
land, for  sale  in  northwest  Africa. 
The  construction  of  the  cloth  is  as  fol- 
lows: width  in  gray,  30 1^  inches;  ends 
per  inch,  68;  picks  per  inch,  72;  warp, 
35s;  filling,  48s;  yards  per  pound,  7.72, 
say  7%.  The  ends  have  been  reeded 
equally  throughout,  2  ends  per  dent. 
The  selvages  consist  of  12  ends  of  2- 
ply  30s  yam  on  each  side. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number  of  ends  in  warp: 

68    (ends  per  Inch)   x  30Vi    (Inches)    =   2,074 

ends.  ,     , 

2,074    +   24   (selvages)    =   2,098  ends  in  warp. 
24    2-ply    yarns    represent    48    single    yarns. 

In  the  above  calculation  24  of  these 
were  considered  when  multiplying  the 
ends  per  inch  by  the  width,  leaving 
but  24  to  be  added. 

To  find  weight  of  warp: 

2,098  (ends)  x  105  (yds.) 

=    7.05    lbs.    warp. 

840  X  35 

To  find  weight  of  filling: 


To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 


7.05   lbs.    warp. 
B.89   lbs.    filling. 


12.94  lbs.    weight    of   cut. 
100  (yds.)    -i-   12.94   =   7.72  yards  per  pound. 

The  finished  fabric  has  been  heavily 
sized  or  filled,  giving  but  6  2-3  yards 
per  pound. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

The  class  of  goods  under  considera- 
tion is  generally  woven  on  fast  run- 

T  \  t 

DDDannDBDiiBBaBaa 
DnBDDDBaaaaBBOBB 

DBaaDaDQBBDBBaaB 
BDDDBaDDBBBaBBBa 

Figr.  1. 


t    t 

DDBaDBDDBDBBDBBnDB 
DBDDBDDBaBOBBaBaBg 

BDDBaDBaaBBaBBDBaa 


Fig.  2. 


DBDanBaBBBDBaBaDDB 
BDDaBDBaBBBOBDaDBa 
DODBaBOBDBBBDnaBDB 
GnBQBDBDBDBBDDBDBg 
DBaBDOBBI^BDBDBGBna 
BDBDDDBBBaBnBDBDDa 


BDL 

DBO 

BDD 

DD^ 

DB 

BBO 


Fig.  3. 


t        t 

aoBOBBnaanBBaDB 
DaBaaaaaaaDBDaB 
BBDBaDaanBDDBBa 
acanaaDBaaaDBDa 
aaaaDBDDaBDBDaa 
'DaaBDaaDBBDaDa 


Fig.  4. 


naGBBBcaDBDnQaaa 
DDBBaoaaaDBDDaBB 
aaBaDBDDaaDBDaDB 
aaaaBaaDaaaDBDoa 
aaDaDDDaGaaaaana 
aGaGGDaaGGaaaaaa 
GaGDDaaanGGaaaaa 
aGGGaaauaGGGaaaa 


Fig.  5. 


Fig.  6. 


aaGGGa 
aGGGaa 
□GGaaa 
GGaaap 
GaaaGD 
aaaDGO 

Fig.  7. 


ning,  side  cam,  single  box  looms.  One 
warp  only  is  required  and  the  goods 
are  reeded  equally  throughout. 

FINISHING. 

This  fabric  has  been  subjected  to 
the  "back  filled"  process  of  finishing. 
This  consists  of  bleaching,  mangling, 


72  (pks.)  X  33  in.  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (yds.) 
840  X  48 


5.89  lbs.   filling. 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


667 


drying,  damping,  calendering,  stretch- 
ing and  filling.  The  mixture  for  back 
filling  is  composed  of  wheat  starch, 
farina,  China  clay,  oleine  oil,  cocoanut 
oil,  bluing,  carbolic  acid  and  water. 
After  l>eing  filled,  it  is  dried,  dampen- 
ed, calendered  and  made  up  as  re- 
quired. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  herringbone 
stripes  are  composed  are  made  in  mills 
of  the  second  division,  as  given  in  a 
previous  article.  The  count  of  the 
yarns  put  into  this  style  of  fabric  va- 
ries, and  for  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider that  the  count  of  yarn  used  is 
35s  for  warp  yarn,  48s  for  filling  and 
30s    for    selvage.     The    staple    of    the 


processes  of  pickers  are  generally 
used  for  both  lengths  of  staple. 
Follow  the  rules  already  given 
in  connection  with  the  openers. 
At  the  breaker  picker  the  speed  of  a 
two-bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater  is  1,- 
500  revolutions  per  minute  and  of  a 
three-bladed  beater  is  1,000  revolu- 
tions per  mniute.  If  a  pin  beater  is 
used  the  speed  is  1,200  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  of  this  picker  is  40  pounds. 
The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermedi- 
ate picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  The 
speed  of  a  two-bladed  beater  at  this 
machine  is  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, a  three-bladed  beater,  950  and  a 
pin  beater,  1,100  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  of  this  machine  is  38  pounds  or 


Fig.  8. 


cotton  used  for  the  30s  and  35s  yarn 
is  1%-inch  and  for  the  48s  is  1  3-16- 
inch  of  middling  grade. 

THE  MIXINGS 

should  be  as  large  as  possible,  so  that 
as  little  variation  as  possible  will  be 
found  between  the  different  mixings, 
and  also  there  should  be  two  mixings 
of  the  same  length  of  staple,  one  being 
used  while  the  other  is  being  worked. 
If  the  mixing  is  put  through  a  bale 
breaker  one  mixing  may  be  done  away 
with.  This  is  so  that  the  cotton  will 
be  allowed  to  expand  as  much  as  pos- 
sible before  being  put  through  the 
pickers.        An      opener      and      three 


a  14-ounce  lap  for  both  stocks.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  breaker  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  picker 
the  cut-waste  laps  are  put  in  in  the 
proportion  of  three  laps  of  raw  stock 
to  one  lap  of  cut  waste,  the  waste  lap 
being  generally  inserted  between  the 
back  and  third  lap.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute; 
the  two-bladed  beater,  925  revolutions 
per  minute;  and  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute  for  a  pin  beater.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  39 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  for  a  40-yard 
(in  length)  lap.  The  laps  are 
next  put  up  at  the  card.  This 
card    should    have    a    licker-in    speed 


66S 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


of  350  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
wire  used  should  be  110s  for  cylinder 
and  120s  for  doffer  and  top  flats.  The 
top  flats  should  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  45  minutes  and 
should  be  looked  after  to  see  that  they 
are  properly  cleaned  and  ground. 
Grind  and  strip  and  set  as  per  instruc- 
tions given  in  a  previous  article  on 
the  same  length  of  staple.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be  45 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production  650 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cottons  are  next  put  through  the  sliv- 
er lap  machine,  the  doublings  being  14 
into  1  and  the  weight  per  yard  of  lap 
being  290  grains  per  yard.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine 
and  doubled  6  into  1,  the  weight  per 
yard  of  lap  being  275  grains. 

AT  THE  COMBER 
the  laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  and  the 
weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver  is  40 
grains  per  yard.  For  this  class  of 
goods  16  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken 
out.  Keep  the  leather  top  rolls  in  good 
condition  and  well  varnished  and  the 
comber  free  from  dirt.  At  the  draw- 
ing frames  the  doublings  at  the  break- 
er are  8  into  1  and  at  the  finisher  6 
into  1.  This  is  not  the  case  in  all 
mills,  as  the  number  of  doublings  used 
varies.  The  weight  per  yard  at  the 
finisher  drawing  is  70  grains.  This 
is  put  through  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .60  hank  roving.  The  slubber  rov- 
ing for  the  308  and  35s  yarn  is  made 
into  2  hank  roving  at  the  intermediate 
fly  frame  and  6.50  at  the  fine  frame. 
The  hank  roving  for  the  48s  is  2.50  at 
the  intermediate  and  9.50  at  the  fine 
frame. 

THE  SIZING 

of  the  cotton  should  be  as  follows:  At 
pickers,  every  lap  and  a  variation  of 
not  more  than  one-half  a  pound  from 
standard  weight  allowed;  at  the  card 
once  a  week;  at  sliver  and  ribbon  lap 
once  a  day;  at  drawing  frame  four 
times  a  day;  at  slubber  once  a  week, 
at  intermediate  once  a  week,  and  at 
fine  frame  once  a  day. 

The  roving  for  30s  selvage  yarn  is 
made  on  a  frame  having  a  6i/^-inch 
traverse,  1%-inch  diameter  of  ring, 
26.02    twist    per    inch    and    a    spindle 


speed  of  9,800  revolutions  per  minute; 
for  the  35s  the  same  conditions  exist 
except  that  a  Ig-inch  diameter  ring  is 
used,  a  28.10  twist  per  inch  and  a  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,300  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher.  The 
filling  yarn  may  be  either  mule  or 
ring  spun;  if  the  latter,  use  a  frame 
having  a  1^/4 -inch  diameter  ring,  5^- 
inch  traverse,  25.98  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  8,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  is  then  conditioned, 
after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  loom. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
BRONZE. 

Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  green  G. ;    6  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

BLUE. 
Six  per  cent   pyrol   blue   B. ;    6   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 

OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  immedial  indone  B.;  6 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D. ;  %  per 
cent  immedial  catechine  G. ;  9  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Eight  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  BB.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B. ;   8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  TB.;  2  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF.; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


66d 


SEA  GREEN. 
One-half   per  cent   Immedial   green 
B. ;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 
♦-»-♦ 

UNION  LINEN  LAWNS 

These  fabrics,  as  the  name  implies, 
are  made  up  of  cotton  and  linen  yarns. 
The  cotton  in  most  cases  forms  the 
warp  and  the  linen  is  woven  in  as 
filling. 

Union  linen  lawns  are  plain  woven 
fabrics  made  in  various  textures  in  re- 
gard to  ends  and  picks  per  inch,  and 
also  the  quality  and  counts  of  yarn. 

The  goods  are  used  or  various  pur- 
poses, principal  among  which  are  fur- 
niture coverings,  summer  outing  suits 
and  dusters.  The  goods,  when  used 
for  the  above  purposes,  are  usually  fin- 
ished without  bleaching.  The  cotton 
yarn  is  usually  dyed  to  match  the  col- 
or of  the  unfinished  linen  warp  or  fill- 
ing, as  the  case  may  be. 

The  fabric  as  used  for  household 
purposes  is  usually  finished  white  or 
bleached. 

CLASSIFICATION  AND   ORIGIN. 

Woven  fabrics  may  be  divided  into 
three  classes,  generally  speaking,  and 
from  these  there  are  derived  all  the 
various  weaves  now  in  use,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  the  leno  weave, 
which  may  be  placed  in  a  class  sep- 
arate from  the  three  foundation 
weaves,  to  wit,  the  plain  weave  or  cot- 
ton weave,  second,  the  twill  weave,  and 
third,  the  satin  weave.  The  first  nam- 
ed in  the  division  covers  a  greater 
variety  of  fabrics  than  the  combined 
number  of  the  latter  two,  the  weave 
in  connection  with  the  kind  and  qual- 
ity of  yarn  and  also  the  texture.  Not- 
withstanding that  there  may  be  sev- 
eral textures  in  any  particular  fabric, 
these  are  the  distinguishing  features 
that  characterize  the  wide  range  of 
cotton  fabrics. 

The  origin  of  the  name  Is  derived 
sometimes  from  the  city  or  country 
In  which  the  fabric  was  first  made,  or 
from  the  name  of  the  maker;  or, 
again,  it  may  be  given  to  the  fabric 
from   the   nature   of   the   material   of 


which  It  is  made,  as,  for  example, 
union  linen  lawns;  the  name  lawn  im- 
plies that  the  fabric  is  plain  woven. 

In 

THE  CONSTRUCTION 
of  these  fabrics  there  is  considerable 
latitude  in  regard  to  ends  and  picks 
per  inch  and  counts  of  yarn.  Some 
grades  of  linen  lawns  are  made  up 
very  firmly,  again  others  may  be  con- 
structed rather  loosely. 
ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  Inches; 
width  of  fabric,  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch,  finished,  60;  ends  in 
warp,  2,160;  ends  in  selvages,  20;  to- 
tal,   2,180. 

Reed,  27^  x  2;  take-up  of  warp  dur- 
ing weaving  about  8  per  cent;  warp, 
l-40s   cotton. 

Filling,  l-20s  linen,  300  yards  per 
hank;    56   picks. 

Analysis  of  a  coarser  grade  of  union 
linen  lawn:  width  of  warp  in  reed,  31^ 
inches;  width  of  fabric,  finished,  36 
inches;  ends  per  inch,  finished,  52; 
ends  in  warp,  1,872;  ends  in  selvages, 
16;   total,  1,888. 

Reed,  25  x  2;  warp,  l-30s  cotton. 

Filling,  80s  linen,  300  yards  per 
hank;  50  picks  per  inch;  take-up  dur- 
ing weaving,  10  per  cent. 

Fig.   1   weave. 

Fig.  2  drawing-in  draft. 

■Daaacau 
naaaaaaa 
aaaoaGia 
oaaaoaDa 
Bcaaanaa 

OMDacaDB 

aaaaaaaa 
Fig.   1. 

BDDDnnna 
DDaanaa 

DDDQDBDa 

DDDaaDDa 

BDoacDDa 
aaDDDDa 

DaDDDDDD 

acjDDanaa 
Fig.  2. 

WEAVING  AND  FINISHING. 

Fabrics  used  for  dress  goods,  that 
is,  outer  garments,  require  more  at- 
tention in  the  weaving  than  almost  any 
other  class  of  fabrics.  The  goods 
should  be  woven  faultlessly,  or,  if  the 
fabric  has  any  faults,  these  must  be 
mended  so  as  not  to  show  in  the  finish- 
ed  fabric;    otherwise   the   goods   can 


670 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


only  be  sold  as  seconds  and  at  a  great- 
ly reduced  price;  consequently,  a 
weaver  has  charge  of  but  four  looms 
on  plain  woven  fabrics,  intended 
for  dress  material.  The  looms  used 
for  these  goods  may  be  plain  cam 
or  roller  looms,  running  at  from  140 
to  160  picks  per  minute.  The  goods, 
after  they  come  from  the  loom,  are 
burled  and  mended,  then  boiled  off  if 
finished  without  bleaching,  or  they 
may  be  bleached,  then  pressed,  made 
up  into  laps  and  are  then  ready  for 
shipment. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Union  linen  lawn  is  composed  of  two 
fibres,  linen  and  cotton,  the  warp  yarn 
being  cotton  and  the  filling  yarn  linen. 
Several  grades  of  this  fabric  are  made, 
two  of  which  are  taken  for  example. 
In  these  two  the  warp  yarn  is  l-40s  for 
the  fine  and  l-30s  for  the  coarser  fab- 
ric. These  yarns  are  made  in  the 
same  division  of  mills  and,  in  fact,  the 
same  mills  make  the  two  classes  of 
fabric.    Where   this  is  the   case, 

THE  DIFFERENT  PROCESSES, 
weights  per  yard,  etc.,  are  the  same 
up  to  a  certain  point.  We  will  consid- 
er the  two  counts  to  be  made  of  the 
same  staple  and  grade  of  cotton,  which 
would  be  IVs-inch  staple  peeler  cotton. 
The  bales  should  be  opened,  stapled 
and  graded  before  being  put  into  the 
mixing,  which  may  be  done  either  by 
hand  or  by  machine,  that  done  by  the 
bale  breaker  being  better,  because  it 
opens  the  cotton  more  thoroughly. 
The  good  sliver  from  the  machines  up 
to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in  at  this  point 
either  as  it  is  collected,  or  as  is  often 
done,  on  mixing  days.  The  cotton  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  picking 
and  an  opener. 

AT  THE  OPENER 
the  general  instructions  given  in  pre- 
vious articles  should  be  followed.  At 
the  breaker  picker  the  type  of  beater 
used  may  be  either  a  pin  or  three-blad- 
ed,  rigid  type.  The  speed  of  the  pin 
beater  is  1,200  revolutions  per  minute 
and  of  the  three-bladed  type  1,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  40 


pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  At  the  in- 
termediate picker  the  speed  of  a  three- 
bladed  beater  is  975  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  doublings  being  4  into  1. 
The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  of 
this  machine  is  37  V^  pounds  or  15 
ounces  per  yard.  At  the  finisher  picker 
the  doubling  is  5  into  1.  The  speed  of 
a  two-bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater  is 
1,425  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  40-yard  lap  is  33  pounds 
or  a  13-ounce  lap.  At  this  machine 
the  cut  roving  waste  laps  are  mixed  in 
the  proportion  of  three  laps  of  good 
cotton  to  one  lap  of  cut  waste.     It  is 

GENERALLY  THE   CUSTOM 
to  prepare  these  laps  at  the  interme- 
diate  picker.     At  the   card   the   draft 
should  not  exceed  100  and  the  speed 
of  the  licker-in  is  350  revolutions    per 
minute.    The  wire  fillet  used  should  be 
that  used  for  medium  counts  of  yarn, 
or  No.  110s  or  cylinders  and  No.  120s 
for  doffer  and    top    fiats.     The    speed 
of  the  top   flats    (110    to    set)     snould 
be      one      complete      revolution      ev- 
ery 50  minutes.  The  weight  of  the  end 
sliver  at  the  front  should  be  45  grains 
per     yard     and     the     production     650 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.     Strip 
cards  three  times  a  day  and  grind  once 
every  three  weeks.   After  grinding,  set 
all  important  parts.    Clean  out  fly  at 
regular    intervals    for    this     class    of 
work,    it    being     done    twice   a     day. 
Watch   the   strips   from  the   top   flats 
to  see  how  they  are  working.     Always 
have  plenty  of 

SPARE    BANDS 

on  hand  so  that  if  one  breaks  another 

may  be  put  on  without  loss  of  time. 

Always  see  that  the  brackets  used  for 

the   stripping   brush   are    properly    set 

for  both  doffer  and  cylinder  and  also 

see  that  they  are  properly  stripped  by 

the  card  attendants,  for  too  often  they 

are  only  half  stripped  if  they  are  not 

watched.   The  yarn  used  for  this  class 

of  goods  is  combed,  and  at  the  sliver 

lap  the  weight  per  yard  is  290  grains, 

the   doublings    being   14    into    1.     At 

the  ribbon  lap  the  doublings  are  6  into 

1,  and  the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  is 

270  grains  per  yard. 

At      the      comber      the      doublings 
are    6    into    1    and    16   per    cent   of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


671 


waste  is  taken  out.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  coiler  is  50  grains 
per  yard.  Follow  the  particulars  for 
setting,  timing  and  varnishing  the  rolls 
as  given  in  a  previous  article.  The 
doublings  at  the  breaker  are  8  into  1, 
two  processes  of  drawing  being  used. 
The  weight  per  yard  at  the  breaker 
drawing  is  90  grains  per  yard.  At  the 
finisher  drawing  the  doubling  is  6  into 
1  and  the  weight  per  yard  is  70  grains. 
At  the  slubber  the  drawing  sliver  is 
made  into  .60  hank  roving.  The  yarn 
is  next  put  through  two  processes  of 
speeders  or  fly  frames.  At  the  first 
intermediate  the  hank  roving  is  2  and 
at  the  second  or  finishing  speeder  the 
hank  roving  is  6  for  30s  yarn,  and  8 
hank  for  40s  yarn.  The  roving  is  next 
taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM 

and  spun  into  30s  on  a  frame  having 
a  61^-inch  traverse,  l|-inch  diameter 
ring,  26.02  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,800  revolutions  per  minute. 
For  spinning  40s,  a  frame  with  a  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute,  28.46  twist  per  inch,  li-inch 
diameter  ring  and  614-inch  traverse,  is 
used.  After  being  spun,  the  yarn  is 
spooled  and  then  run  on  a  beam.  Sev- 
eral of  these  beams  are  put  up  at  the 
back  of  the  slasher  and  after  being 
slashed  are  run  on  a  beam  at  the 
front. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  olive  G. ;   5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;    20  per  cent  salt. 
BRONZE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze  G.;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten    per    cent    thiogene   black    M. 
cone;    10   per   cent   sulphide   sodium; 
2  per  cent  soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent   thion  black   TBC. ;    1 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per  cent 
soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 


ECRU. 
Three-quarters  per  cent  thion  brown 
G. ;   1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per 
cent  soda  ash;    10  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  BB. ; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  brown  B. ;  5 
per   cent   immedial   cutch    O.;    10   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  thion  blue 
B.  cone;  IV^  per  cent  sulphide  sodi- 
um; 1  per  cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent 
salt.  Develop  with  peroxide  of  hydro- 
gen. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  thion  navy  blue  R.; 
8    per    cent    sulphide    sodium;    2    per 
cent  soda  ash;   20  per  cent  salt.     De- 
velop with  peroxide  of  sodium. 


SATIN  CHECKS 

Satin  checks,  so  called,  derive  their 
name  from  the  appearance  of  the  pat- 
tern, which  consists  of  variable  block 
effects,  usually  equal  in  size  in  the 
same  piece,  on  the  plain  weave  basis. 

Some  of  the  larger  effects  resemble 
checkerboards  and  are  known  as  such. 
They  are  also  known  as  dice  checks. 

A  satin  check  fabric  made  in  Eng- 
land for  the  northwestern  Africa  ex- 
port trade  is  similar  in  construction 
and  finish  to  the  "herringbone"  fabric, 
considered  in  a  preceding  article,  and 
the  data  given  there  in  connection 
with  these  items  will  also  apply  here. 

The  weave  principle  upon  which  the 
cloth  has  been  constructed  may  be 
seen  in  Fig.  1,  which  is  composed  of 
warp  flush  and  filling  flush  weaves  ar- 
ranged on  the  plain  cloth  base,  four 
square  sections  completing  the  weave. 
In  this  case  the  complete  weave  Is  on 
48  X  48,  each  section  being  on  24  x  24. 

The   base  weaves   used   are   the     ' 

and  the  5 twills. 

The  object  in  alternating  blocks  of 
warp  flush  weaves  with  blocks  of  fill- 


672 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ing  flush  weaves  is  to  produce  a  cloth 
whereon  the  pattern  seems  to  appear 
stronger  when  viewed  in  certain  di- 
rections than  when  viewed  in  others, 
with  two  weaves  that  have  the  same 
structure,  although  differing  in  appear- 
ance. This  principle  is  developed  on  an 
extended  scale  in  white  damask  table- 
cloths. 
The  shadow   effect   seen    in    these 


npcBSBnnDrnB 
ia^d.^MauLDBa 

■■d_aaaDBaaa 
mm^mamDmnaaa 
■■■■■oanDDOD 

aOZ^a  ^■DBBBBB 
DD^iaB'JBDBBBB 
DaOBDGBBaBBB 
DDBaDDBBBaBB 
UBDDDDBBBBDB 

BaanaaBBBBBa 

4  timee  4  Xinita 

Fig,  1. 


4  times  4  timea 

Fig.  2. 
f  DBBBBBgnDaaa 

V  BDBBBBDaaOBa 

)  BBDBBBaaDBgn 

)  BBBaBBDDBDDQ 

f  BBBBDBDBDDDQ 

:  BBBBBDBDDaDD 

'  nnDDDBOBBBBa 

>  nunanaBBDBBB 
nnaDDDi 

laDDDDl 


aaDDDD 

DDDDDB 

DDanag 

dddbdQ 

aaaaDaaaD 


;  □aGBDDi 
DrjBDDO 
DBDODDI 


]BBBBB 
IDBBB* 


4tlmM  4tiiSM 

Fig.  4. 

goods  is  an  optical  illusion,  due  to  the 
reflection  of  the  light  after  it  falls  on 
the  filling,  being  at  a  different  angle 
to  that  reflected  from  the  warp,  both 
being  viewed  from  the  same  position. 
The  larger  the  section  and  the  greater 
the  proportion  of  one  yam  as  com- 


pared to  the  other  in  the  same,  the 
more  lustrous  will  be  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the   goods. 

Fig.  2  shows  the  harness  draft  and 
Fig.  3  the  chain  draft  for  producing 
the  weave.  Fig.  2  is  known  as  a  sec- 
tional  drawing-in  draft. 

One  of  the  principal  points  to  be 
noted  in  the  construction  of  these 
weaves  is  to  make  the  warp  flpats  of 
each  section  oppose  the  filling  floats 
of  the  adjoining  sections,  both  warp 
and  filling  way  If  this  is  not  done,  a 
ragged  or  indistinct  pattern  will  re- 
sult, in  addition  to  the  cloth  not  having 
as  firm  a  feel. 

Another  point  is  that  it  is  advisable 
to  arrange  the  base  weaves  in  such 
positions  that  although  there  are  four 
sections  in  each  repeat  of  the  weave, 
the  two  filling  flush  sections  will  be 
exactly  alike  and  the  two  warp  sec- 
tions alike,  whenever  possible. 

This  may  perhaps  be  better  under- 
stood by  reference  to  Figs.  1  and  4. 
Fig.  4,  although  composed  of  the  same 
base  weaves  as  Fig.  1,  would  not  make 
as  clean  and  even  an  appearance  in  the 
cloth   as   the   latter 

A  satin  check  made  with  Fig.  5 
would  be  preferable  to  one  made  with 
Fig.  6,  other  conditions  being  equal. 
Both  of  these  weaves  are  built  up  from 
broken  crow  weave  bases  and  cut 
on   all   sides. 

Weave  Fig.  7  would  be  preferable 
to  weave  Fig.  8.  Both  are  made  from 
the  same  8-end  satin  weave  bases, 
started  in  different  relative  positions. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Being  woven  white  and  with  one 
count  of  filling  only  a  single  box  dob- 
by  loom  is  generally  used  when  weav- 
ing these  goods.  The  two  base  weaves, 
one  warp  flush  and  the  other  filling 
flush,  are  seldom  made  on  more  than 
8  ends  and  8  picks  each,  therefore  a 
16-harness  dobby,  with  a  selvage  mo- 
tion extra,  is  large  enough  to  allow 
ample  scope  for  producing  a  variety  of 
patterns.  An  18  or  20  harness  dobby 
should  be  used  if  there  is  no  selvage 
motion  on  the  loom. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


673 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

As  the  fabric  considered  is  similar 
in  construction  and  finish  to  that  de- 
scribed under  "Herringbone  Stripes," 
the  carding  and  spinning  data  need 
not  be  repeated. 

■■DBBaDBGHDDCMDa 
■DBaHaBBDGBDDaHa 

■■■DHHBuaaDaaaaa 
oaBaDaaaDaaaDDGa 
BBDaBaDBGanDDaDa 
BDHBaaaa.  DBaaaaa 
BaaDBBaDaDDaanDa 
aDDBaDaai-aBaaaaa 

DBDDDBnDBBDBBBDB 

oaaaDaaaaDBBBDBB 
■DDaaanaaaaDBBaa 
DoaBDaDBaaaaaBBB 
DaDaaaaaaaaaBBaa 

SaBaaaBDBDaaaaaB 
aDDaDDaaaaaaaaa 

Fig.  5. 

Daaanaaanaaaaana 
aaaaanaaoDaaaoaa 
■■■DaaaoaDaaaDDa 
■■aaaaGBDaaDDaaa 
aaaaaaaaDDDaDDDB 
■naaanaaDaaDDDaa 
■■■□■■■aacaaaDDQ 
■■aaaaDaDanaaaaa 

BoaDDaaoaDBaaaaa 
DnaaaDaaaaaDBBB 
Daaaaaaaaaaaaaua 
aoDDaonaaaaoaaaa 
DDananaaaDaaaaaa 
ODDannDaDaaaoaaa 
DaDODaDaaanaaaDa 
aDDoaaaaaaaaaaaa 

FiR.  6. 

■BaaanaanaananDD 
GaaaaaaaDODaoDDa 
aaaaaaaaaDaaaDDa 
aaaaaaaaaaaoDDaa 
aaaaaaaaDDDDODan 
aaaaaaaanaaaaDGD 
aaaaaaananDDaaoD 
aaaaaaaaoDDDDanD 
DoanaDDDaaaaBDaa 
DDDDaaaaDaaaaaaa 
DnDcaanDaaanaaaa 
DaDDOGaaaaaaaana 
aaananaDaDaaaaaa 
DDnaDDDDaaaanaaa 
aaaDDDDDaaaaaaaa 
DcaaaaaDaaaaaaaa 

Fig.  7. 

DaaaBBBBaanDDnna 
aaaaaaaaDDDDaDGD 
aaaaaaaaDaDnnDDD 
■aBaaaaaDanDDaaa 
BaaaaaaaDnaaaDaa 
BBBaaaaaaaDQanDa 
BBaBaaaaDaaDi  maa 
BaaaauaaaoBDaaaa 
□nDUDaDGBBoaaaaB 
DaaDaaDaBaBaaaaa 
(DaaDDDaaaaBaaaaa 
DaanaoDoaaaDaaaa 
DaaDDDDDaaaaaaDB 
DDDDoaaDaaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaDDaaaaDaaa 
■DDaaDDoaaaaaaaa 

Fig.  8 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
BRONZE. 
Five   per  cent  pyrol  bronze;    5   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  green  G. ;    6  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 


BLUE. 
Six  per  cent   pyrol  blue   B. ;    6   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  immedial  indone  B. ;  6 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D. ;    1/2   per 
cent  immedial  catechine  G.;  9  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Eight    per    cent    diamine    Bordeaux 
B.;   2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  BB.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY   BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B.;   8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thlon  black  TB.;  2  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FP. ; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;   10  per  cent  salt. 
SEA  GREEN. 
One-half    per    cent    immedial    green 
B.;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 


NANKEEN,  or  NANKIN 

Nankeen,  or  nankin,  pronounced 
nan-ken,  is  a  name  given  to  a  class  of 
fabrics  woven  with  the  plain  weave, 
the  distinguishing  effect  of  which  is 
their  peculiar  yellowish  brown  color. 
This  color  is  natural  to  the  cotton  of 
which  they  are  made,  the  religiosum 
variety  of  the  gossypium  herbaceum 
class. 

The  goods  are  worn  by  Chinese  peo- 
ple in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  original  nankeen  fabric  derived 
its  name  from  Nanking,  the  ancient 
Chinese  city,  now  known  as  the 
"southern  capital,"  being  first  con- 
structed there  from  a  native  cotton. 
The  pure  nankeen  fabric  is  fin- 
ished    and     v/oven     in     the     natural 


674 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


color  and  is  of  Chinese  manufacture. 
The  raw  cotton  is  rough,  short  and 
hard  to  work,  so  much  so  that  the 
supply  of  cotton  of  this  type  and  color 
grown  is  not  enough  to  supply  the  de- 
mand for  the  woven  goods.  For  the 
last  half  century  or  more  large  quanti- 
ties of  so-called  nankeen  fabrics  of 
British  manufacture  have  been,  and 
are  being  to-day,  exported  to  China, 
the  principal  market  for  the  same  be- 
ing at  Canton.  These  goods  are  woven 
white  and  subsequently  dyed  the  re- 
quired color,  dyers  being  able  to  imi- 
tate the  qualities  of  the  original  nan- 
keen color  in  all  respects. 

KINO, 

pronounced  ke-no,  was  one  of  the 
drugs  formerly  used  for  giving  nan- 
keen color.  Its  chief  component  part 
is  tannic  acid. 

Nankeen  fabrics,  deriving  their 
name  more  particularly  from  their  pe- 
culiar color,  are  made  to  vary  to  some 
extent  in  counts  of  yarns  and  con- 
structions of  cloth,  although  being 
kept  to  medium  counts  and  weights. 

A  characteristic  fabric  is  made  as 
follows:  Counts  of  warp,  26s;  counts 
of  filling,  22s;  ends  per  inch,  68;  picks 
per  inch,  64 ;  width,  27  inches  finished. 

At  the  present  time  nankeen  fabrics 
are  not  necessarily  those  made  exclu- 
sively of  cotton.  A  sample  under  con- 
sideration is  made  from  silk  scrapings 
or  waste  and  cotton  warp,  mixed  be- 
fore going  through  the  preparing  ma- 
chines, and  silk  waste  filling.  The 
mixed  fibres  in  the  warp  appear  later 
in  the  same  yarn,  the  yam  being  sin- 
gle spun.  The  fabric  is  very  uneven, 
more  so  in  the  filling  than  in  the  warp, 
but  quite  uneven  in  both. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Like  other  plain  cloths,  a  light,  quick 
running  plain  cam  loom  is  used  for 
their  production.  Woven  a  solid  col- 
or, one  warp  and  one  shuttle  only  are 
required.  The  ends  are  reeded  two  in 
a  dent  throughout. 

FINISHING. 

Very  little  finishing  is  required  for 
the  pure  goods.  After  being  burled 
and  brushed  they  are  sheared  or  sing- 


ed,  or   both,   crabbed,    washed,   dried 
and  made  up  as  required. 

Imitation  nankeens,  in  addition  to 
the  above,  are  subjected  to  the  proc- 
ess of  dyeing. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

For  carding  and  spinning  particu- 
lars see  article  on  "Tartan  Plaids," 
the  counts  of  yarns  for  nankeen  be- 
ing similar  to  those  explained  in  said 
article. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

This  class  of  goods  is  dyed  on  the 
gigger  dyeing  machine  in  the  open 
width.  The  method  of  dyeing  Is  to 
take  the  thoroughly  boiled  and  wet  out 
goods  and  roll  smoothly  on  the  first 
roll  of  the  gigger.  Sew  the  leaders  on 
with  smooth,  flat  seams,  then  fill  the 
machine  with  water  about  six  inches 
above  the  inside  rolls;  heat  to  the  re- 
quired temperature  and  add  %  to  i^ 
of  the  dissolved  dye  (for  light  shades 
it  is  best  to  add  the  color  in  four  por- 
tions; for  medium  or  dark  shades,  the 
dye  may  be  added  in  two  portions). 
Then  start  the  machine  and  pass  the 
cloth  through  the  liquor  onto  the  op- 
posite roll,  add  more  of  the  dye  and 
return;  repeat  until  shade  desired  is 
produced. 

A  fine  nankeen  shade  may  be  dyed 
with  the  following  dyes: 

No.  1.  Dye  with  3  per  cent  extract 
fustic;  3  per  cent  alum.  Boil  together 
and  add  to  dye-bath  in  four  portions, 
dyeing  at  120  degrees  F. 

No.  2.  Dye  with  1-10  per  cent  diam 
fast  yellow  B.;  0.08  per  cent  diam  cate- 
chine  G. ;  0.015  per  cent  diam  catechine 
B.;  1  per  cent  soda;  2  per  cent  soap. 
Start  dyeing  at  100  degrees  F.,  heating 
slowly  to  180  degrees  F.,  then  add  5 
per  cent  Glauber's  salts  in  two  por- 
tions and  run  to  shade. 

No.  3.  Dye  with  2  per  cent  immedl- 
al  orange  C;  1  per  cent  katigen  brown 
GG.;  3  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2 
per  cent  Turkey  red  oil.  Start  dyeing 
at  100  degrees  F.,  heat  to  180  degrees 
F.  slowly,  and  run  to  shade. 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


675 


MUSLIN— Foimdatioii  Muslin 

Foundation  muslin  is  a  fabric  used 
to  impart  stiffness  to  parts  of  gar- 
ments, principally  light-weight  dresses 
of  lawn  or  goods  of  similar  character 
used  for  graduation  and  other  pur- 
poses. It  is  loosely  woven  and  of  very 
light  weight.  The  requisite  body  is 
Imparted  to  it  in  the  finishing  process 
by  one  or  more  stiffening  ingredients. 

The  cloth  is  woven  plain.  The  ends 
are  drawn  single  through  the  heddles 
and  reeded  two  in  each  dent,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  the  selvage  ends. 

The  analysis  of  a  characteristic 
foundation  muslin  shows  the  following 
data:  Ends  per  inch,  72;  picks  per 
inch,  68;  counts  of  warp,  110;  counts 
of  filling,  120;  finished  width,  SlVa 
inches;  weight,  20  yards  per  pound. 
The  selvages  consist  of  12  ends  of  6Us 
yarn  on  each  side,  reeded  3  ends  per 
dent.  The  counts  of  yarns  here  stated 
are  as  found  in  the  finished  cloth.  All 
the  yarns  are  somewhat  hard  twisted 
and  are  free  from  loose  fibres. 

CALCULATIONS. 

311^  inches  times  36  equals  1,134  dents 
occupied  by  the  warp;  1,134  minus  8 
for  selvages  equals  1,126  dents;  1,126 
times  2  equals  2,252  ends  of  110s  warp; 
8  times  3  equals  24  ends  of  60s  warp; 
2,276,   total   ends. 

To  find  weight  of  warp  in  100  yards 
of  cloth,  assuming  10  per  cent  contrac- 
tion in  length  from  warp  to  cloth  of 
the  fine  yarn  and  5  per  cent  contrac- 
tion of  the  coarse  yarn: 


2,252  X  110  (length) 


110   (counts)   X  840 
24   X  105 


2.681  lbs.  of  110s  warp. 


.05    pound    of    60s   warp. 


2.681   pounds    110s. 
.05     pound  60s. 


2.731   pounds,    total    weight   of    warp. 

The  60s  warp  has  been  considered  as 
having  been  run  from  spools,  separate 
from  the  main  warp. 

To  find  weight  of  filling  in  100  yards 
of  cloth: 


72    (sley)   —  1    =    71. 

71    H-    2.1    (constant)    =   33.82   dents   per  inch 

in   reed. 
1,134    -^    33.82    =    33.53    in.,    width    in   reed. 
68(pks)  X  33.53  x  100  (length) 

=     2.261     lbs. 

120  (counts)  X  840  filling. 

In  the  preceding  calculation  the  gray 
and  finished  widths  of  the  cloth  have 
been  assumed  to  be  equal,  the  cloth 
having  been  stretched  but  little,  and 
tentered  to  the  full  width,  in  the  proc- 
ess of  finishing.  The  finished  width  of 
most  fabrics  is  less  than  the  loom  or 
gray  cloth  width,  requiring  that  the 
difference  between  them  be  taken  into 
consideration  when  ascertaining  the 
amount  of  filling  required. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 

2.731   pounds    warp. 
2.261   pounds    filling. 


4.9y2   pounds,    total   weight. 
100   -=-   4.992   =   say,    20  yards  per  pound. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

A  light,  fast  running,  single  box  cam 
loom  is  preferable  for  these  goods,  the 
ends  being  drawn  through  twine  har- 
nesses on  account  of  the  large  num- 
ber of  ends  and  picks  per  inch  and  fine 
yarn.  Being  a  very  light,  sheer  fabric, 
considerable  care  has  to  be  taken  with 
it  in  weaving  to  prevent  misweaves  of 
all  kinds,  particularly  thick  and  thin 
places,  and  broken  ends  and  picks. 

FINISHING. 

This  process  is  really  the  one  which 
makes  the  characteristic  qualities  of 
foundation  muslin  as  distinct  from 
other  plain  woven  goods.  A  fabric  of 
the  construction  mentioned,  being  sim- 
ilar in  all  respects  except  in  the  finish, 
would  not  be  known  by  the  same  name 
if  finished  differently.  In  fact,  many 
of  the  cotton  fabrics  derive  their  name 
from  the  finishing  process  to  which 
they  have  been  subjected,  irrespective 
of  the  construction  of  the  cloths.  The 
purpose  for  which  it  is  to  be  used  de- 
termines, to  a  more  or  less  degree,  the 
construction  and  quality  of  plain  wo- 
ven cloths. 

Foundation  muslins  are  usually  wo- 
ven in  natural  cokr,  after  which  they 
are  bleached  and  finished  white,  some- 
what as  follows:  Burl,  singe,  bleach, 
size  with  gum  or  gum  "tragasol,"  con- 
dition, calender  and  make  up. 


676 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


When  required  in  colors,  the  goods 
are   dyed  in  the  piece. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 
BLACK. 

Eight  per  cent  union  black  S.;  1  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A.;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda; 
2  per  cent  soap.  Top  with  alizarine 
black  4  B. 

SEA   GREEN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  black 
HW. ;  4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.;  topped  with  new  methylene  blue 
N.;  new  phosphine  G. 

For  10  gallons  dye-liquor:  6  ounces 
soap;  l^  ounce  sal  soda;  3  ounces 
phosphate  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue 
B. ;  1  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue 
G. ;  topped  with  new  methylene  blue 
NX.;  metaphenylene  blue  B.;  indigo 
blue  N. 

PEARL. 

Two  ounces  diamine  gray  G. ;  1-16 
ounce  diamine  brown  M.;  topped  with 
aniline  gray  B. 

SLATE. 

Ten    ounces     diamine     gray    G.;     i 
ounce  diamine  brown  M.;  topped  with 
cyanol  extra;  orange  extra. 
LIGHT   MAUVE. 
One  ounce    diamine   violet    N.;     % 
ounce  diamine  brilliant  blue  G. ;   top- 
ped with  methyl  violet  BI. 
VIOLET. 
One  per  cent  diamine  violet  N.;   % 
per   cent   diamine    brilliant    blue    G. ; 
topped  with  methyl  violet  BI. 
PINK. 
Two    per    cent    diamine    rose    ED.; 
topped  w^ith  rhodamine  G. 
SKY  BLUE. 
Four  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  FF.; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;   i^ 
per   cent  diamine   yellow  B.;    topped 


with  Bismarck  brown  FF.;  thioflavlne 
T. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  black  HW.;  2 
per  cent  diamine  green  B.;  1  per  cent 
diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  topped  with 
brilliant  green;  new  methylene  blue 
N. 

CREAM. 

One-quarter  ounce  diamine  gold;   ^ 
ounce  diamine  orange  B.;   1-16  ounce 
diamine  fast  yellow  B. 
STEEL. 

One- eighth  ounce  diamine  gray  G.; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra;  aniline  gray 
B. 


SILENCE  CLOTH-Filling  Backed 

Silence  cloth,  or  table  felting,  is  a 
heavy  cotton  fabric  used  to  cover  the 
table,  under  the  linen  cloth,  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  damage  to  the 
finish  of  the  table  and  to  make  the 
cloth  look  whiter. 

Standard  widths  of  these  goods  are 
54  and  64  inches. 

In  order  to  make  heavy,  thick,  firm 
fabrics  it  becomes  necessary  to  depart 
from  single  cloth  structures  and  inter- 
lace the  yarns  on  one  or  other  of  the 
compound  weave  principles,  such  as 
backed,  double  or  heavier  ply  cloths. 
In  these  fabrics  some  of  the  yarns, 
while  forming  part  of  the  structure, 
may  appear  only  in  the  center  or  the 
back,  not  showing  on  the  face. 
THE  SIMPLEST  FORM 
of  these  is  either  a  warp-backed  or 
filling-backed  fabric,  the  former  of 
which  was  shown  in  the  article  on 
"Cotton  Cassimeres." 

Filling-backed  fabrics,  especially 
those  of  the  reversible  type,  i.  e.,  those 

BDDQ 

mmam 

DDDffl 

■aaa 


Fig.   L 

with  the  face  and  back  similar,  that 
are  made  with  filling  flush  weaves,  are 
excellently  adapted  for  making  silence 
cloths,  because  a  heavy  nap  is  required 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


677 


on  both  sides  of  the  fabric  and  this 
can  be  obtained  best  by  using  soft 
yarn.  The  nap  is  obtained  principally 
with  the  filling  yarns,  which  are  soft 
and  coarse,  as  warp  yarn  must  have 
considerably  more  twist  than  is  re- 
quired for  filling  in  order  that  it  may 
withstand  the  wear  and  tear  of  the 
movements  caused  by  the  heddles  and 
reed  during  weaving. 

Fig.  1  shows  a  weave  for  a  filling- 
backed  fabric  with  a  ' — %  twill  on 
each  side.  Marks  a  represent  the  face 
weave;  solid  type  represents  the  back 
weave. 

A  cloth  woven  with  this  design 
would  show  the  warp  on  both  sides, 
when  in  the  gray,  but  only  one-half  of 
the  filling  on  each  side. 

The  individualities  of  the  yarns  are 
lost  in  the  finishing  process;  in  silence 
cloths,  therefore,  such  a  cloth,  if  wo- 
ven with  Fig.  1,  picked  one  pick  white 
and  one  pick  color,  would  have  a  white 
surface  on  one  side  and  a  colored  one 
on  the  other.  As  the  loose  fibres  of  the 
filling  would  practically  cover  the 
warp,  the  color  of  the  latter  would  be 
of  little  consequence.  On  the  score  of 
economy  it  would  be  best  to  have  it 

THE  ANALYSIS 
of  a  silence  cloth,  before  finishing, 
shows  it  to  have  been  constructed  as 
follows:  Ends  per  inch,  68;  picks  per 
inch,  40  (20  on  the  face  and  20  on 
the  back) ;  warp  counts,  11.6,  probably 
intended  for  11.5;  filling  counts,  2%; 
width,  58  inches;  weight,  1.45  pounds 
per  yard;  weave,  Fig.  1.  This  cloth 
would  finish  54  inches. 

The  warp  has  contracted  18  per  cent 
in  length.  The  filling  lies  straight, 
showing  little,  if  any,  shrinkage  from 
loom  to  cloth.  It  is  soft  twisted,  con- 
taining but  five  turns  per  inch. 

Very  heavy  silence  cloths  are  con- 
structed on  the  double  or  higher  ply 
cloth  principles. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
For  weaving  filling-backed  silence 
cloths  a  heavy  loom  is  required.  Al- 
though they  may  be  woven  on  cam 
looms,  a  dobby  would  be  preferable, 
unless  it  was  certain  that  the  same 
pattern  would  be  run  on  the  loom  con- 


tinually. One  warp  and  one  shuttle 
only  are  required.  On  account  of  the 
coarse  filling  and  the  width  of  the 
cloth,  the  shuttles  should  be  large. 
FINISHING. 
The  processes  of  bleaching  and  nap- 
ping constitute  practically  all  the  fin- 
ishing these  goods  receive,  being  wo- 
ven and  finished  white. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Silence  cloth  is  made  up  of  yarns 
which  are  made  in  the  first  division  ot 
mills,  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  counts  of  yam  vary  according  to 
the  weight  of  the  cloth  and  in  the 
sample  that  has  been  taken  for  de- 
scription are  as  follows:  lli^s  for  fill- 
ing and  2.75s  for  warp.  These  yarns 
are  soft  twisted  to  allow  them  to  be 
easily  brushed,  so  as  to  cause  a  short 
soft  nap.  The  yarns  are  made  of  short 
stock,  but  as  a  general  rule,  waste  (ex- 
cept cut-roving  waste)  does  not  enter 
into  the  mixing.  The  staple  used  would 
be  about  |  to  i  inch  in  length.  The 
mixing  should  be  large  and  at  each 
mixing  the  cut-roving  waste  laps 
should  be  mixed  in.  Mixing  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  done  by  hand,  and  it 
is  the  general  rule  to  work  for  produc- 
tion and  not  for  quality,  as  a  great 
many  defects  are  covered  up  in  the 
brushing  of  the  cloth. 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 
are  used.  The  mixing  after  being  al- 
lowed to  stand  is  fed  to  the  feeders. 
The  seeds,  fly,  etc.,  should  be  taken 
out  at  regular  intervals  and  care  tak- 
en to  see  that  the  pin  beater  is  proper- 
ly set  so  that  the  correct  amount  of 
cotton  will  be  fed  to  the  breaker  pick- 
er, to  which  the  opener  is  generally 
attached.  The  beater  of  this  picker  is 
generally  of  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type, 
and  for  this  stock  its  speed  is  1,550 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  about  40  pounds  or  a  16i^ -ounce 
lap.  At  the  finisher  picker  the  dou- 
bling is  four  into  one,  the  speed  of  the 
beater,  1,500  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  the  total  weight  of  the  lap  39 
pounds,  or  a  14 1^ -ounce  lap.  A  varia- 
tion  of  not  over  8  ounces  either  side 


678 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


of  standard  total  weight  should  be 
allowed.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see 
that  the  drafts  are  properly  directed, 
so  as  to  make  an  even  lap  that  does 
not  have  a  tendency  to  split  or  lick 
up.  The  eveners  should  be  properly 
looked  after  to  see  that  they  are  work- 
ing properly  and  the  dirt,  seed,  etc., 
cleaned  from  under  and  about  the 
machines  at  regular  intervals.  If  pos- 
sible the  pickers  should  be  run  so  that 
they  may  be  stopped  as  early  as  pos- 
sible in  the  week,  so  as  to  clean  out 
the  cages,  feed  rolls,  etc. 

AT  THE  CARDS 
the  draft  should  not  exceed  95,  and 
the  wire  fillet  used  on  the  cylinder 
should  be  No.  90s  and  on  the  doffer 
and  top  flats  No.  100s.  Grind  and  clean 
cards  as  given  in  previous  articles.  The 
settings  of  the  different  parts  of  the 
cards  should  be  the  same  as  those  giv- 
en for  indigo  prints  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. The  weight  of  the  sliver  should 
be  65  grains  per  yard,  and  the  produc- 
tion from  800  to  1,000  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  For  this  class  of  goods 
two  processes  of  drawing  frames  are 
used.  The  frames  may  be  fitted  with 
either  leather  covered  or  metallic  top 
rolls;  generally  speaking,  the  former 
are  preferred  for  various  reasons.  The 
doublings  are  8  into  1,  and  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing 
frame  is  75  grains  per  yard.  The  speed 
of  the  front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per 
minute. 

At  the  slubber  the  sliver  is  made  in- 
to .40  hank.    For 

THE  WARP  YARN 
this  is  spun  into  2.75  (single)  soft 
twist.  For  the  filling  yarn  there  is 
one  process  of  fly  frame  at  which  the 
slubber  roving  is  made  into  1.25  hank. 
The  setting  of  the  rolls  should  be  look- 
ed after  to  see  that  they  are  properly 
spread  and  that  the  top  rolls  are  in 
good  condition.  The  speeder  or  fly 
frames  should  be  scoured  at  least  once 
a  year.  After  passing  the  fly  frame 
the  roving  is  made  into  11.5s,  being 
put  in  single,  on  a  frame  having  a 
7-inch  traverse,  IS-inch  diameter  ring 
and  spindle  speed  of  6,500  revolutions 
per  minute.  This  yarn  is  also  soft 
spun. 


ORLEANS  LININGS 


Orleans  linings  refer  to  a  class  of 
goods,  of  various  qualities  and  pat- 
terns, having  a  cotton  warp  and  wor- 
sted filling.  They  are  used  principally 
for  lining  the  heavier  garments  for 
outer  and  winter  wear,  and  are  seen 
in  black  and  all  the  fashionable 
shades.  A  large  proportion  are  made 
with  the  5 -end  twill,  ' — ;  ,  ground. 
Fig.  1,  the  selvage  being  woven  plain, 
or  with  two  picks  in  a  shed  and  catch 


DonnB 

DDDBa 

Domaa 
amaaa 
■aooQ 

Pig.  1. 


thread   on  the   outside. 

The  cheapest  grades  are  woven 
white,  then  piece-dyed  in  solid  colors. 
Better  grades  have  warp  dyed  yarns, 
the  filling  in  the  same  being  woven 
white  and  dyed  to  match  the  warp  after 
it  leaves  the  loom.  By  this  method 
cotton  warp  yarns  of  two  colors  may 
be  used,  say  black  and  white,  the  black 
being  used  for  the  body  of  the  cloth 
and  the  white  for  the  selvages,  the 
dyes  used  for  the  wool  not  affecting 
the  cotton  to  any  appreciable  extent. 

Advertising  has  educated  the  retail 


Fig.  2. 

dealers  and  consumers  to  the  fact  that 
cotton  warp  goods  with  a  white  sel- 
vage, the  ground  being  of  color,  are 
more  to  be  depended  upon  not  to 
crock  than  similar  cloths  of  solid 
color. 

The  worsted  filling  used  is  of  a  nat- 
urally lustrous  type,  which  is  capable 
of  being  made  more  lustrous  by  the 
finishing  process.  The  yarns  are  re- 
quired to  be  of  good  quality  in  order 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


679 


to  finish  and  make  up  satisfactorily. 
Fig.  2  illustrates  a  characteristic 
Orleans  lining,  unfinished,  containing 
three  counts,  colors  and  qualities  of 
warp  yarns.  The  ground  warp  is 
of  a  dark  slate  color  (probably 
intended  for  black).  This  is  of 
30s  counts,  is  reeded  3  ends  per 
dent,   and   weaves   as   shown    in    Fig. 

1.  The  section  just  inside  the  selvage 
Is  solid  white,  is  of  3-ply  100s  counts, 
is  reeded  8  ends  per  dent,  and  weaves 
two  picks  in  a  shed;  there  are  24  white 
ends  on  each  side.  The  selvages  prop- 
er consist  of  16  ends  of  3-ply  60s  black 
cotton  on  each  side  and  are  reeded  4 
ends  per  dent;  they  weave  plain.  The 
selvage  ends  are  drawn  2  as  1  through 
each  heddle;  the  remainder  of  the 
ends  are  drawn  single. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

The  construction  of  the  cloth  is  80 
square,  i.  e.,  80  ends  and  80  picks  per 
inch. 

The  fabric  under  consideration,  Fig. 

2,  would  require  9  harnesses,  5  for  the 
ground,  2  for  the  white  warp  and  2  for 
the  selvages,  and  could  be  handled 
best  on  a  dobby  loom.  By  exceptional 
care  in  beaming  the  yarn  it  would  be 
possible  to  put  the  three  counts  of 
warp  on  the  same  beam,  but  it  is  not 
advisable  to  do  so  for  various  reasons. 
One  is  that  the  3-lOOs  yarn,  being  so 
crowded  in  the  reed,  would  under  nor- 
mal conditions  take  up  faster  than  the 
ground  warp  and  thereby  become  tight- 
er. Being  3-ply  yarn  of  good  quality  it 
might  stand  the  strain  of  weaving  all 
right,  but  would  not  stretch  to  any  ex- 
tent in  finishing.  If  the  ground  cloth 
was  stretched  to  its  limit  in  finishing, 
the  white  yarn  would  be  liable  to  break 
during  that  process.  For  the  best 
results  it  would  be  advisable  to  run 
the  white  and  selvage  yarns  from 
spools,  and  the  ground  warp  from  the 
main  beam.  The  white  yarn  should  be 
run  with  a  minimum  amount  of  ten- 
sion. 

The  white  ends  in  this  sample  are  so 
crowded  in  the  reed  as  to  cover  the 
filling  entirely;  these  would  show  solid 
white  even  after  the  filling  was  dyed 
to  match  the  ground  warp.  It  is 
something  out  of  the  ordinary  to  have 


such  an  elaborate  selvage  as  this  on 
a  lining  fabric,  the  general  run  of  the 
goods  having  a  solid  color  ground  and 
a  few  white  ends  for  selvage. 
LOOM   REQUIRED. 

For  ordinary  lining  fabrics  where 
the  ground  weave  does  not  occupy 
more  than  5  harnesses,  a  cam  loom 
with  a  selvage  motion  would  be  the 
best  to  use.  A  loom  weaving  5  ends 
sateen  could  readily  be  changed  over 
to  weave  a  5-end  twill  by  changing  the 
order  of  treading  the  cams,  or,  if  the 
cams  are  cast  in  one  piece,  by  chang- 
ing the  order  of  tying  up  the  har- 
nesses. One  shuttle  only  is  required. 
FINISHING. 

The  finishing  process  consists  of 
burling,  singeing,  crabbing,  dyeing, 
drying  and  shearing  and  pressing  on 
hydraulic  press. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Orleans  linings  are  made  up  of 
worsted  and  cotton  yarns.  The  counts 
of  these  vary  accoiding  to  the  grade  of 
the  lining  desired.  The  cotton  warp 
yarns  of  the  sample  analyzed  are: 
main  warp  30s,  section  just  inside 
the  selvages,  3-lOOs,  and  the  sel- 
vage itself  3-60s.  These  counts 
of  yarn  are  made  in  the  third  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
While  the  count  of  the  main  yarn  is 
only  what  may  be  called  a  medium 
count,  still,  it  is  made  in  mills  where 
fire  counts  are  made.  It  must  be  un- 
derstood that  while  the  mills  making 
fine  count  yams  may  and  do  make  low 
or  coarse  count  yarns,  the  medium  and 
low  count  mills  cannot  make  high 
count  yarns  with  equal  success. 

FOR  THE  YARNS 
in  the  fabric  to  be  described,  three 
different  lengths  of  staple  cotton  are 
used.  These  are  mixed  either  by  hand 
or  with  the  bale  breaker,  the  latter 
being  the  better  method,  because  no 
matter  how  closely  the  laborers  are 
watched,  they  do  not  break  up  the  cot- 
ton as  it  should  be  done.  The  mixing 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible  in  order  to  dry  out.  Three 
processes  of  pickers  are  used  and  the 
same  beater  speed  may  be  used  for  the 


680 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


three  different  lengths  of  staple.  At 
the  breaker  picker  a  two-bladed  beater 
of  the  rigid  type  is  generally  used.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  is  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  care  should  he  tak- 
en to  have  the  feed  rolls  and  cages 
taken  out  and  cleaned  at  regular  in- 
tervals, which  should  be  as  frequently 
as  possible.  Be  careful  to  get  a  lap 
that  does  not  split.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  breaker  picker  should  be 
about  40  pounds  for  all  three  staples. 
At 

THE  INTERMEDIATE  PICKER 
the  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  is  37%  pounds.  At 
the  finisher  picker  the  laps  are 
doubled  4  into  1,  and  the  speed  of  the 
beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  at  the  front  may  be 
the  same  for  all  staples  or  they  may 
have  different  weights,  according  to 
the  ideas  of  the  ones  in  charge.  If  of 
different  weights,  the  weight  of  the 
lap  for  the  30s  yarn,  which  would  be 
made  out  of  1%  to  1  3-16  inch  staple 
cotton  would  be  39  pounds  or  a  14 1^- 
ounce  lap;  for  the  60s  yarn  (1  3-16  to 
1  5-16  inch  staple),  35  pounds  or  a 
12| -ounce  lap;  and  for  the  100s  yarn 
(IVz  to  11  inch  staple),  35  pounds  or  a 
121/^ -ounce  lap.  The  staples  of  cotton 
given  above  are  for  the  fabric  under 
description,  and  do  not  apply  to  all 
fabrics  made  up  of  the  same  counts 
of  yarn.  Look  out  for  the  drafts  and 
see  that  the  required  number  of  laps 
are  always  up  at  the  different  proc- 
esses and  also  that 

THE  EVENING  MOTIONS 
are  in  perfect  working  order.  A  vari- 
ation of  half  a  pound  either  side  of 
the  standard  weight  is  allowed,  but  all 
laps  that  vary  more  than  this  should 
be  run  over  again  through  the  finisher 
picker.  Look  out  to  see  that  the  pick- 
er tender  on  the  finishers  does  not  pull 
enough  lap  off  of  a  heavy  lap  to  make 
it  the  required  weight.  Enough  laps 
should  be  made  between  Monday  and 
FViday  noontime  to  enable  the  cards 
to  be  run  the  rest  of  the  week.  This 
is  so  that  the  picker  men  may  have 
time  to  clean  the  pickers  and  make 


all  repairs  on  the  machines  that  are 
required. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  equipped  with  fine  counts  of 
wire  fillet.  The  draft  at  the  card  for 
the  30s  yarn  should  not  exceed  95,  for 
the  60s,  100,  and  for  the  100s  not  less 
than  100.  The  flats  for  the  coarser 
yarn  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  55  minutes,  for  the  mid- 
dle count  in  50  minutes,  and  for  the 
fine  count  in  40  minutes.  Grind,  strip 
and  set  as  described  in  previous  arti- 
cles when  these  counts  of  yarns  have 
been  described.  The  weight  per  yard 
of  the  sliver  should  be  45  grains  and 
the  production  800  pounds  for  the 
1  3-16  inch  staple,  700  pounds  for 
1  5-16  inch  staple  and  550  pounds  for 
Ig-inch  staple  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
All  the  card  sliver  for  this  fabric  l8 
combed.     It  is 

THE  GENERAL  METHOD 
to  run  the  cotton  in  succession  through 
the  following  machines:  sliver  lap, 
ribbon  lap  and  comber,  but  a  great 
many  mill  men  nowadays  prefer  the 
following  arrangement;  one  process 
drawing  frame,  sliver  lap  and  comber. 
If  the  former  method  is  used,  the  dou- 
bling at  the  sliver  lap  machine  (for 
an  8%-inch  width  lap)  is  14  into  1,  and 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  6  into  1. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  sliver  lap 
machine  is  295  grains  per  yard,  and 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  275  grains 
per  yard  for  1  3-16  inch  staple,  290 
grains  at  sliver  lap  and  275  grains  at 
ribbon  lap  for  1  5-16  inch  stock  and 
280  grains  and  265  grains  for  li-inch 
stock.  Size  at  ribbon  lap  once  a  day, 
t^n  allowance  of  five  grains  either  side 
of  standard  weight  being  allowed  be- 
fore changing  draft  gear.  At  the 
comber  the  doubling  is  according  to 
the  number  of  heads  that  comber  con- 
tains (6  or  8).  The  usual  setting  and 
timings  should  be  used.  The  per- 
centage of  waste  taken  out  at  the 
comber  is  as  follows:  15  for  1  3-16,  16 
for  1  5-16  and  18  to  20  for  1%-inch 
stocks. 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING 

are  used,  the  doubling  at  the  breaker 
being  8  into  1,  and  at  the  finisher  6 
into  1.    The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


681 


finisher  drawing  is  70  grains  per  yard 
for  all  the  cotton.  Size  drawings  four 
times  a  day,  an  allowance  of  2  grains 
per  yard  either  side  of  standard  weight 
being  allowed,  before  changing  draft. 
At  the  slubber  the  sliver  is  made  into 
.60  hank  roving  for  all  stocks. 

To  make  30s  yarn  the  cotton  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames. 
At  the  first  intermediate,  the  hank  rov- 
ing made  is  2,  and  at  the  fine  frame  6. 
This  is  made  into  30s  yarn  on  a  warp 
spinning  frame  with  a  2g-inch  traverse, 
l§-inch  diameter  ring,  and  a  6i/^-inch 
bobbin.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  put  through  the  slashers. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING 
for  the  60s  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing being  1  at  first  intermediate,  3  at 
second  intermediate  and  12  at  jack 
frame.  This  is  spun  into  60s  yarn  on 
a  frame  having  the  following  particu- 
lars: 11/^ -inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch 
traverse,  and  spindle  speed  10,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute. 

The  yarn  is  then  spooled,  made  into 
3-ply  yarn,  spooled  and  run  onto  a  sel- 
vage warp. 

The  slubber  roving  for  100s  yarn  is 
also  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermediate 
it  is  made  into  2  hank,  at  the  second 
into  6  hank,  and  at  the  fine  or  jack 
frame,  20  hank  roving.  This  is  spun 
into  100s  on  a  spinning  frame  having  r 
2% -inch  gauge,  li-inch  diameter  ring, 
5-inch  traverse  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
9,400. 

After  being  made  into  100s  yarn  it 
Is  spooled  and  twisted  into  three-ply 
yarn,  after  which  it  is  spooled  and 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher. 

At  the  sliver  lap  machine,  ribbon  lap 
machine,  comber  and  drawing  frame 
the  leather  top  rolls  have  to  oe  var- 
nished, and  should  be  kept  in  perfec* 
condition,  both  as  to  varnish  and 
leather. 

THE  VARNISH  USED 
for  the  comber  rolls  should  be  of  f 
heavier  or  rougher  kind  than  that 
used  for  the  other  rolls.  Several 
recipes  for  varnish  have  already  been 
given,  but  the  following  will  also  be 
found  an  excellent  one:    For  comber 


rolls  use  8  ounces  plate  glue,  8  ounces 
ground  gelatine,  12  ounces  burnt  sien- 
na, 1  ounce  oil  originum,  3  pints  acetic 
acid,  1  pint  water.  For  the  other  roll; 
use  the  same  mixture,  excepting  that 
vermilion  should  be  used  instead  of 
the  burnt  sienna.  This  will  make  a 
much  smoother  roll  than  the  varnish 
used  for  the  combers.  Many  also  var- 
nish the  front  rolls  of  the  slubber; 
when  this  is  done  the  varnish  used 
should  be  thinner  than  the  others,  be- 
ing thinned  with  the  acetic  acid. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

Dyeing  Orleans  linings,  as  in  all  oth- 
er classes  of  goods,  is  done  in  a  good 
many  ways,  according  to  the  quality 
and  the  price  the  goods  are  sold  at.  A 
fine  quality  black  Orleans  is  woven 
with  a  black  warp,  which  will  stand 
the  after  processes  of  finishing  and 
dyeing,  which  are  crabbing,  scouring, 
singeing  and  steam  lustering;  then 
dyeing  either  with  a  logwood  black  on 
a  chrome  mordant  or  one  of  the  blacks 
which  dyes  the  worsted  filling  at  one 
dip  in  an  acid  bath.  If  the  goods  have 
white  cotton  threads  in  the  selvages, 
the  dyer  will  select  one  of  the  blackf 
which  have  no  affinity  for  cotton  in 
the  acid  bath.  Dyestuffs  suitable  for 
the  warps  on  this  class  of  goods  are 

THE  SULPHUR  BLACKS, 
which  are  sold  under  several  names, 
but  all  dyed  in  the  same  manner  in  a 
bath  composed  of  the  dye,  sodium  sul- 
phide, soda  ash  and  common  salt  or 
Glauber's  salts.  Another  black  suitable 
for  this  class  of  goods  is  the  diamine 
blacks,  developed.  These  blacks  are 
dyed  in  the  following  manner:  first 
the  warps  are  dyed  in  a  boiling  bath 
with  the  diamine  black  and  Glauber's, 
then  treated  in  a  cold  bath  with  nitrite 
of  soda  and  muriatic  acid,  then  in  a 
third  cold  bath  with  phenylenedia- 
mine.  Fast  slate  shades  are  dyed  the 
same  as  the  blacks,  only  using  about 
half  the  proportion  of  dyes  and  shad- 
ing with  small  portions  of  red  or  yel- 
low of  the  same  group  of  dyes.  Orleans 

FOR  FANCY  COLORS 
are    woven    with    white   cotton   warps 
and   worsted   filling,   which   are   dyed 


682 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


either  with  the  direct  colors,  which 
dye  the  cotton  and  worsted  at  one 
bath,  or  the  four-bath  method.  The 
first  method  consists  in  dyeing  in  a 
bath  composed  of  the  direct  cotton 
and  wool  dyes  which  dye  in  a  neutral 
bath  with  Glauber's  salts  at  boil.  The 
second  method  is  to  first  dye  the  wor- 
sted filling  with  aniline  dyes  in  a  bath 
with  acid  and  Glauber's  salts.  Wash 
well.  Then  treat  the  warps  with  tan- 
nic acid,  or  sumac,  in  a  cold  bath; 
then  in  a  third  bath,  with  tarta 
emetic,  or  one  of  the  antimony  salts; 
then  in  a  fourth  bath  dye  the  warp 
to  shade  with  basic  dyestuff.  The  dye- 
ing of  this  class  of  goods,  like  that  of 
all  other  goods  dyed  in  the  piece,  re- 
quires considerable  practice  and  skill. 


SHADOW  CHECKS 

Shadow  checks  are  a  class  of  pat- 
terns of  set  check  or  block  effects  off 
a  very  faint  character.  Viewed  fronj 
certain  directions,  they  appear  to  have 
a  faint  stripe  or  to  be  without  pattern 
entirely.  They  are  seen  in  apparel 
goods  of  various  materials,  from  silk 
to  cotton,  and  usually  in  plain,  simple 
twill,  or  other  small  regular  weave. 
The  goods  are  always  shown  in  white, 
black  or  solid  color. 

Shadow  checks  are  the  faintest 
check  effects  that  appear  in  woven 
goods,  and  are  made  by  arranging  a 
certain  number  of  ends  of  yarn  twist- 
ed to  the  right  and  a  certain  number 
twisted  to  the  left,  and  picking  the 
filling  in  a  similar  manner.  For  ex- 
ample, a  shadow  check  of  the  shep- 
herd plaid  type,  i.  e.,  a  check  with  al- 
ternate blocks  of  equal  size,  might 
have  the  warp  yarns  arranged  10  ends 
of  right  twist  and  10  ends  of  left 
twist  alternately,  the  filling  being  in- 
serted 10  picks  of  right  twist  and  10 
picks  of  left  twist. 

A    MODIFICATION 

of  this  might  be  made  by  arranging 
the  yarns  in  both  warp  and  filling,  4 
right  twist,  2  left  twist,  4  right,  4  left, 
2  right,  4  left;  20  ends  and  20  picks 
per  pattern. 


As  the  yarns  are  all  of  the  same 
counts,  material,  quality  and  color, 
and  are  reeded  equally,  it  follows  that 
something  out  of  the  ordinary  causes 
the  check  effect.  It  is  an  optical  illu- 
sion, due  to  the  reflection  of  the  light 
that  falls  upon  the  fabric  being  de- 
flected at  a  different  angle  in  the  sec- 
tions composed  of  right  twist  yarns 
to  the  sections  composed  of  the  re- 
verse twist  yarns. 

In  a  shadow  check  of  the  shepherd 
plaid  type  under  consideration,  the 
face   yarns   are   arranged   16    of   each 


■■no 
mmaa 
aamm 
aaum 

F1&.  1. 

twist  alternately  in  both  warp  and  fill- 
ing. The  face  weave  is  the  4-end  bas- 
ket. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

These  goods  require  box  looms  of 
the  simplest  type,  with  two  boxes  at 
one  end  and  a  single  box  at  the  other. 

The  manner  of  preparing  the  warps 
determines  to  some  extent  the  type  of 
shedding  motion  to  use,  whether  cam 
or  dobby.  As  the  finished  fabrics  are 
required  to  be  in  one  solid  color,  and 
some  warp  yarns  differ  from  others 
only  in  the  direction  of  twist  in  the 
same,  care  has  to  be  exercised  to  keep 
the  yarns  where  they  belong  and  to  tie 
in  the  right  twist  when  an  end  breaks. 

ONE   OF   TWO   METHODS 

may  be  adopted  to  assist  in  keeping 
the  yarns  in  order: 

First,  tint  the  yarns  of  one  twist 
with  a  light  substance  that  may  be 
noticeable  in  the  loom  and  yet  wash 
out  readily  before  it  is  dyed,  the  other 
warp  yarns  being  in  the  gray.  By  this 
method  the  warp  yarns  may  all  be 
readily  drawn  on  one  beam,  and  wo- 
ven on  a  cam  loom. 

Second,  place  the  different  twists  of 
yarns  on  separate  beams  and  draw 
them  through  separate  sections  of  har- 
nesses. When  this  method  is  adopted 
it  is  advisable  to  use  the  dobby  in 
preference  to  cams  on  account  of  the 
number  of  harnesses  required. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


683 


Two  colors  or  kinds  of  bobbins 
should  be  used,  one  for  each  kind  of 
twist,  so  that  the  filling  will  not  be  li- 
able to  get  mixed;  or  if  cops  with- 
out tubes  are  used,  the  shuttles  should 
be  marked  so  as  to  be  easily  distin- 
guished. Tubes  of  different  colors  can 
be  used  if  the  cops  are  built  on  tubes. 

IMITATIONS 
of  shadow  checks  have  been  shown  to 
some  extent  in  cotton  warp  and  mo- 
hair or  luster  worsted  filling  goods. 
These  are  made  with  the  warp  yarn 
all  the  same  twist,  the  shadow  ef- 
fect, warp  way,  being  obtained  by 
reeding  some  dents  with  more  ends 
than  others. 

In  a  fabric  of  the  type  of  goods  un- 
der consideration,  the  yarns  are  ar- 
ranged as  follows: 


WARP. 

Ends. 

Dents. 

18 

in          9 

1 

1 

IS 

9 

1 

1 

10 

5 

1 

1 

10 

5 

1 

1 

10 

5 

4 

4 

10 

5 

4 

4 

10 

5 

1 

1 

10 

5 

1 

1 

10 

5 

1 

1 

Total,   121    ends  in  68  dents    per  pattern. 

PILLING. 

Right  twist  yarn. 
10 

Left  twist 

yarn. 

6 

10 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

10 

6 

10 

6 

6 

6 

« 

6 

6 

— 

— ^ 

62              -I- 

62     = 

=    124    picks    per 
pattern. 

As  these  fabrics  are  characterized 
by  the  pattern,  the  constructions  of  the 
cloths  vary  considerably.  The  fabric 
under  consideration  contaLne  an  aver- 


age of  about  55  1-3  ends  per  Inch  of 
2-120S  cotton,  the  same  twist  through- 
out. Each  pattern  contains  121  ends 
and  measures  2  3-16  inches;  121  di- 
vided by  2  3-16  equals  55  11-35  or 
55  1-3  per  inch. 

There  are  48  picks  of  worsted  per 
inch. 

Shadow  stripes  are  made  by  using 
only  one  kind  of  filling,  the  warp  yarns 
being  arranged  as  in  shadow  checks, 
with  the  take-up  of  the  cloth  regular. 
An  irregular  take-up  would  make  a 
check  effect. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  carding  and  spinning  data  for 
this  class  of  fabric  are  those  given  in 
the  article  on  batiste  and  need  not  be 
repeated  here. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

These  goods  are  dyed  with  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt  and  run  at  a  tem- 
perature of  190  degrees  F.  until  the 
wool  is  dark  enough,  when  the  steam 
is  turned  off,  the  bath  cooled  down 
and  the  goods  run  until  the  cotton 
warp  is  dyed  to  shade. 

LIGHT  PINK. 
One-half  to  2  ounces  Erika  pink. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  union  black  SB. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
Dye  as  pink,  with  V2  to  1  ounce  tet- 
razo   brilliant   blue  6   B. 

LIGHT    SLATE. 
Two  ounces  diamine  black  BH. ;  dye 
as  pink. 

RED. 
One-half  pound  benzo  fast  red  4  B.; 
dye  as  pink. 

YELLOW. 
Dye  as  pink.     Eight  ounces  chryso- 
phenine. 

ORANGE. 
Dye    as    pink.     One    pound    Mikado 
orange  B. 

SCARLET. 
Dye   as   pink.     One   pound    diamine 
scarlet  B. 


684 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


LIGHT  WINE. 

Dye   as   pink.     One  pound   diamine 
Bordeaux    B.  i 

LIGHT    AMBER    BROWN. 
Four  ounces  diamine  catechine  G. ; 
4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  dye 
as  pink. 

TOBACCO   BROWN. 
One-half  pound  diamine   brown   B.; 
2  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;   dye 
as  pink. 

LIGHT  TAN. 
Dye   as     pink;     4     ounces     diamine 
bronze  G.;   2  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low  B. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 
Dye   as   pink;    10     ounces     diamine 
green  G.;    5  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B.    Top  with  fresh  bath;  6  ounces 
brilliant  green  G. 


BARATHEA 

Barathea,  or  barrathea,  is  a  name 
used  to  denote  a  certain  effect  in  wo- 
ven fabrics,  obtained  principally  by 
the  manner  in  which  the  warp  yarns 
are  interlaced. 

The  effect  combines  to  a  greater  or 
less  degree  several  well-known  types 
of  woven  effects.  Viewed  in  certain 
ways  the  effect  is  that  of  a  stripe. 
Upon  close  examination  it  appears  like 
a  broken  cord,  and  yet  somewhat  like 
a  basket  weave. 

On  examination  of  Fig.  2,  the  weave 
will  reveal  how  these  effects  are  ob- 
tained. This  weave  is  complete  on  24 
ends  and  four  picks,  having  been  re- 
peated in  the  picks.  At  the  points 
indicated  by  the  space  there  is  a  break 
in  the  regular  formation  of  the  pat- 
tern, caused  by  one  section,  which  is 
in  all  respects  like  the  other,  in  so  far 
as  the  effect  it  makes  is  concerned, 
being  raised  half  way  of  one  cord 
above  the  other,  or,  as  it  is  termed, 
one  section  is  "set  across"  the  other. 
It  is  at  these  points  that  a  cut  ef- 
fect is  obtained,  which  defines  the 
stripe  warp  way.  One  repeat  of  the 
weave,  in  the  number  of  picks  it  con- 
tains, is  represented  in  the  cloth  by 


two  repeats  of  the  efEect,  or  two  cords 

warp    way. 


naaana  DaDBGaaaGaaa  oa;iana 
aaavoa  BoanaaaaaaaD  Daaaoa 
aaaaao  BDaaBDaaaaMD  anaoag 
Baanaa  aaDBODDBDaoa  BaaDaa 
DBDana  aaDaaBnaoBDa  DanaDa 
DBDBaa  uamaanmaDama  Daaaaa 
BDaaad  BDaaaDBaaDBD  aDBDan 
■□aaaa  □aaDaaaaDaaa  aaaoaa 

▲        B         A 
Fig.  2 


□■ 

am 

■Q 

■D 


Fig.  3. 


Danaaaaaaaaa 

DaaaDaaaDaaa 
DaaaaanaDaDa 
Daaaaaaaaaoa 
DaaaoaaaoaDa 
Daaaaaaaaaaa 
■□aaaaaaaaaa 
■DaaaaaaaaaD 
BDaDaaaDanaD 
BSBQanaDaaaD 
BaaoBDaaanaD 
BDaaaaaaaaaa 
4  limes  equals 
48  ends 


DaaaaanaDaaa 
Daaaaaaanaaa 
aaaaaaDaaaaa 
aaaoaaauaDaa 
aDaaaaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaDaaaa 
aaaaaaaaaDaa 
aGaaaaBDaaaa 
anaaaaaoaaaa 
naaaaananaDB 

GBDaPBDanBDB 

aaDBDBDBDaaB 
4  times  equals 
48  ends 


ig-  *. 


DBaBDBnBDBGB 

aaDBDBDaDaaB 
□aaaDaoagaga 
DaaaaaaaDaDa 
BDaaananaDaa 
BaBaaDaaanBD 
■aaaaaaaaaaa 
■□aaaaauaDaa 


DananaDanaDH 
aaaanaaaoaaa 
aDaaaaanagag 
aDaaaDBDaaaa 
aDBDaaaDagBg 
aaBaaaaDaDBg 
DBDaaaaaDBaa 
oaaaaBDaaaDB 


Fig. 5. 

Section  A,  or  S,  of  Fig.  2  is  simply 
repeats  of  warp  cord  weaves.  Each 
section  represents  six  repeats  of  the 
two  end  cord.  Fig.  3,  and  if  woven 
alone  would  form  an  unbroken  cord 
or  rep  effect  across  the  cloth.  The 
greater  the  number  of  ends  in  each 
section  of  the  weave,  as  compared 
with  the  number  of  picks,  the  more 
pronounced  will  be  the  cord  appear- 
ance. The  nearer  square  the  com- 
plete pattern  appears  in  the  cloth,  the 
more  will  it  resemble  a  basket  effect. 

The  patterns  vary  from  square  to 
effects  several  times  longer  filling 
way  than  length  way  of  the  cloth. 

When  constructing  cloths  with  warp 
cord  weaves,  of  which  baratheti 
weaves  are  an  extension,  considera- 
bly more  ends  than  picks  per  inch  are 
required,  the  object  being  to  cover  the 
filling   yarns   entirely. 

Barathea  fabrics  in  all  silk,  or  with 
silk  warp  and  cotton  filling,  are  ex- 
tensively used  in  the  manufacture  of 
gentlemen's  neckties.  They  are  usual- 
ly  shown   in   white,  black,  solid   and 


I 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


685 


staple    colors,    although    occasionally 
made  in  more  than  one  color. 


The  construction  of  two  of  these 
fabrics  is  as  follows:  White,  fine  silk 
warp,   ply   cotton   filling,   weave.   Fig. 


2;  280  ends  and  72  picks  per  incn; 
23  1-3  ribs  per  inch.  Black,  fine  silk 
warp,  ply  cotton  filling,  weave.  Fig. 
4;  480  ends  and  100  picks  per  inch; 
10  ribs  per  inch.  They  are  seldom 
made  with  larger  effects  than  this 
for  tie  silks. 

Baratheas  are  excellent  wearing 
fabrics,  the  yarns  exposed  to  wear, 
the  warp  yarns,  being  necessarily  fine 
and  of  good  quality.  They  are  made 
to  differ  in  the  sizes  of  ribs  used, 
small  effects  being  used  more  than 
large  ones.  The  size  is  regulated  by 
one  or  both  of  two  factors;  first,  th« 
number  of  ends  and  picks  in  a  repeat 
of  the  weave;  second,  the  number  of 
ends  and  picks  per  inch  of  yarn  in 
the  cloth.  Figs.  2,  4  and  5  are  the 
weaves  generally  used,  the  number  of 
ends  in  each  section  varying  accord- 
ing to  requirements. 

The  two  sections  comprising  the  re- 
peat, no  matter  how  many  ends  used, 
usually  contain  an  equal  number  of 
ends. 

With  the  weaves  already  noted  the 
effect  produced  on  the  back  of  the 
cloth  is  an  exact  duplicate  of  that  on 
the  face.  A  modification  or  extension 
of  these  weaves,  used  principally  in 
the  larger  effects,  is  shown  in  Figs.  6 
and  7. 

The  solid  marks  in  Fig.  6  indicate 
a  weave  that  would  form  an  effect  on 
the  face  of  the  cloth  similar  to  that 
made  with  weave  Fig.  4.  These  repre- 
sent where  the  warp  wouM  show  on 
the  face,  coming  together  and  cover- 
ing the  raisers  indicated  by  the  cross 
es.  The  latter  indicate  a  broken  plain 
weave  on  the  back. 

Fig.  7  would  make  the  same  face  ef- 
fect in  the  cloth  as  Fig.  4,  if  woven 
with  the  same  construction,  but  the 
back  of  the  cloth  would  show  a  broken 
twill  effect.  A  firmer  fabric  would  be 
produced  with  weaves  6  and  7  than 
with  No.  4,  with  the  same  amount  of 
material. 

Further  extensions  of  these  weaves 
are  illustrated  in  Figs.  8,  9,  10  and  11. 

The  patterns  indicated  may  be  wov- 
en on  ordinary  single  box  silk  dobby 
looms.  If  two  colors  are  used  in  the 
same  fabric  they  are  arranged  in  the 


686 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


warp.  As  the  warp  covers  the  filling 
there  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  us- 
ing more  than  one  color  of  filling. 


LOOP  or  KNO  CLOTH 

Loop  or  kno  cloths  are  character- 
ized by  small  loops  of  warp  yarn  pro- 
jecting from  the  face  of  the  cloth,  usu- 
ally In  set,  regular  order. 

They  are  novelties,  not  standard 
goods,  and  as  such  are  not  limited  to 
any  one  construction,  quality  or  ma 
terial.  They  are  generally  made  with 
cotton,  wool  or  silk  yarns.  The 
yarns  forming  the  loops  are  used  for 
ornamental  purposes  only. 

Fig.  1  is  an  example  of  a  loop  pat- 
tern on  a  ' —  twill  ground.  The 
loop  yarns  in  this  particular  instance 


nsinr^rrTTnTirrx; 


Fig.  1. 


are  arranged  as  extras,  not  showing 
on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  except  where 
they  are  required  to  form  the  loops. 
Figs.  2,  3  and  4  show  the  weave,  hai- 
ness  draft  and  chain  draft  respectively 
to  produce  Fig.  1.  The  ground  ends 
are  drawn  through  harnesses  1,  2,  3 
and  4,  and  the  loop  yarns  through  5,  6, 
7  and  8.    The  weave  is  complete  on  52 


ends   and   60  picks,  including  4  wire 
picks. 

THE  LOOP  YARNS 
weave  ' ,,  except  where  they  are  re- 
quired to  loop,  and  are  tied  between 
two  face  ends  raised  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  ties,  crosses  in  Fig.  2 
show  where  the  loop  yarns' are  raised 
over  the  wires  to  form  the  loops.  Cir- 
cles indicate  tying  points,  two  ends 
working  together  as  one..  Crosses  in 
Fig.  4  indicate  where  the  wires  go  be- 
tween the  warp  yarns  in  place  of  the 
regular  shuttle.  All  the  face  warp  is 
down,  and  the  take-up  motion  of  the 
loom  is  stopped  on  these  picks. 

THE  CONSTRUCTION 
of  sample  Fig.  1  is  85.8  ends  and  66 
picks  per  inch  average.  The  ground^ 
cloth  is  66  square  and  there  are  12 
loop  or  extra  ends  to  every  40  ground 
ends.  The  warp  is  all  two-ply  yarn  of 
similar  count.  The  filling  is  single 
yarn. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Loop  effects  may  be  woven  on  loop 
pile  carpet  looms,  or  on  ordinary  dob- 
by  or  jacquard  looms  provided  witli 
special  mechanisms  or  attachments, 
and  beam  stands,  upon  which  one  or 
more  extra  beams  may  be  placed,  vary- 
ing according  to  requirements.  The 
loop  yarns  take  up  faster,  and  more 
intermittently,  than  the  ground  yarns, 
requiring  a  greater  length  of  warp  for 
a  given  length  of  cloth. 

There  are 

VARIOUS  METHODS 
by  which  the  loops  may  be  obtained, 
each   of   which   requires   different   at- 
tachments.    Some  of  these  are  as  fol- 
lows: 

First.  The  loop  yarns  are  arranged 
to  work  gauze  or  leno  in  connection 
with  wires  fastened  to  one  or  more 
of  the  harness  frames.  These  yarns 
go  from  one  side  to  the  other  of  the 
wires  and  as  the  cloth  is  drawn  down, 
slide  over  and  away  from  them  and 
are  feft  In  loops. 

Second.  Wires  are  inserted  across 
the  cloth  in  place  of  the  regular  shut- 
tle, on  the  picks  required  to  form  the 
loops,   on  the  principle  applied   when 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


687 


making  loop  pile  carpets.  These  wires 
are  automatically  withdrawn  after 
the    ground    filling    has    secured    the 

loops. 

Cloth  Illustrated  in  Fig.  1  has 
been  made  on  this  principle.  Two 
extra  spools  or  beams  have  been  used, 


is  liable  to  make  the  cloth  look  barry 

where  the  three  picks  are  beaten  up 
together,  as  the  ground  ends  offer  con- 
siderably more  resistance  than  on  an 
ordinary  terry  towel  fabric,  there  be 
ing  only  a  relatively  small  portion  of 
the  ends  weaving  terry. 


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one  for  ends  on  5  and  6,  and  one  for 
ends  on  7  and  8. 

Third.  The  loop  yarns  are  allowed 
to  come  off  the  warp  beam  at  about 
the  same  tension  as  the  ground  ends, 
except  on  the  picks  when  tliey  are  re- 
quired to  loop,  when  they  are  forced 
forward  a  greater  length  by  a  posi- 
tive motion.    On  these  picks  the  yarns 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
LIGHT    SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  BH.;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

ECRU. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 


are  eased  after  the  shuttle  has  cross-      G. ;  ^4  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.; 


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ed  the  shed,  and  the  shed  closed  be 
fore  the  reed  reaches   the  fell  of  the 
cloth.     This  is  perhaps    the    simplest 
method. 

Fourth.  The  loops  may  be  made  on 
a  loom  with  a  terry  reed  motion  (see 
article    on    terry    toweling),  but    this 


1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  new  blue 
G. ;  10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide  crys- 
tals;  2   per  cent  caustic  soda  lye,  75 


688 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


degrees  Tw.;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BOTTLE   GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  diamine  black  H.W.; 
2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;   2 


Fig.  4. 


per  cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

GRAY. 

One  per  cent  immedial  black  NLN.; 
1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  i/^  per 
cent  caustic  soda  solid;  20  per  ceni 
salt. 

MAROON. 

Five  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B. ; 
6  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  1  per  cent 
caustic  soda  solid;  20  per  cent  salt. 

MODE. 

One  per  cent  immedial  brown  BV. ; 
1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D.;  2  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  i^  per  cent 
caustic  soda  solid;  20  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  green  GG.; 
10   per   cent   sodium   sulphide;    2   per 


cent  caustic   soda  solid;    20   per  cent 
salt. 

BLACK. 
Six  per  cent  para  diamine  black  BB.; 
2    per    cent    sal    soda;    20     per     cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.;  ^ 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 

PEA  GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  green  G. , 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;   10  per  cent  sail. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF. ; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;   15  per  cent  salt. 


GREPONS 

These  fabrics  are  made  up  of  a 
combination  of  cotton  worsted,  or  cot 
ton,  worsted  and  silk.  The  goods  are 
usually  piece-dyed  and  used  princi- 
pally for  ladies'  wear  in  the  form  of 
skirts.  The  character  of  the  patterns 
for  these  fabrics  is  such  that  the  best 
effects  can  only  be  obtained  with  the 
use  of  the  jacquard  loom.  In  this 
treatise  we  will  consider  the  fabric  as 
woven  on  the  harness  loom.  The  har- 
ness loom  is  utilized  either  because 
the  manufacturer  has  no  jacquard 
loom  on  hand  or  wishes  to  reduce  the 
cost  of  weaving. 

THE   WEAVE 

for  these  fabrics  is  based  on  the  dou- 
bled cloth  system.  Under  the  head  of 
doubled  cloth  we  mean  the  combin- 
ing of  two  separate  textures  into  one 
fabric  requiring  separate  warp  and  fill- 
ing threads  for  each  texture.  Combin- 
ing the  two  textures  into  one  fabric 
is  effected  by  interlacing  the  warp  or 
filling  threads,  or  both,  of  one  texture 
into  those  of  the  other  at  regular  in- 
tervals. 

The  pattern  being  effected  with  the 
warp  and  filling  of  one  system  of 
threads  forms  a  raised  figure  on  the 
face  of  the  goods.  This  raised  figure 
depends  as  much  on  the  nature  of  the 
yarn   as   it  does  on  the  weave.     The 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


689 


m\ii^ii\wKx\mmn^mm§;;^6m\ 


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ua .:  lii 


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Fig.  1. 


cotton  in  the  goods  is  principally  used 
as  a  back  for  the  raised  figure;  the 
worsted  forms  the  figure.     If  the  silk 


is  used,  it  forms  the  figures  and  the 
worsted  or  wool  goes  into  the  body  of 
the  goods,  and  in  the  finishing  of  the 


690 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


fabric  contracts  considerably,  thus  ac- 
centuating the  figure. 
In  a  foregoing  paragraph  it  was  sug- 


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i 


gested  that  the  best  effects  are  only 
obtainable  with  the  use  of  the  jac? 
quard    loom,    by    reason    of    the    fact 


that  the  patterns  are  too  large  to  be 
operated  on  the  harness  loom,  and  as 
a  rule  the  quality  of  the  fabric  is  not 
made  as  fine  as  the  jacquard  loom 
fabric;  however,  a  harness  loom  that 
can  operate  24  harnesses  can  produce 
some  very  clever  effects.  The  variety 
in  regard  to  texture  in  these  fabrics 
can  be  comprehended  best  by  compar- 
ing several  fabrics  of  different  tex- 
tures. Some  idea  may  be  obtained  by 
the  following  constructions. 

A  texture  for  a  cheap  grade  crepon: 

Width  in  reed,  56  inches;  finished  at 
52  inches;  warp  plan,  one  end  face 
warp,  2-328  mohair,  1  end  back  warp, 
2-50s  cotton;  15  x  4  reed;  filling,  1-308 
cotton  filling;   60  picks. 

A  better  grade  may  be  made  with 
the  same  warp  plan,  by  using  one  pick 
worsted  to  alternate  with  one  pick  cot- 
ton.   The  worsted  will  be  face  filling. 

The  character  of  the  pattern  for 
this  grade  of  crepon  may  be  any  con' 
ventionalized  figure,  arranged  usually 
in  some  zigzag  manner,  Imitating  as 
much  as  possible  the  larger  patterns 
made  on  jacquard  looms.  The  raised 
figure  or  blister  effect  covers  as  much 
space  or  divides  equally  with  the 
ground  in  most  fabrics  of  the  cheaper 
grades.  In  the  better  grades  there  Is 
usually  more  figure  than  ground.  Fig. 
1  shows  a  design  illustrating  the  cre- 
pon weave  and  proportion  of  figure  to 
ground  for  fabrics  on  20  to  24  har- 
nesses. Fig.  2  shows  the  drawing  In 
draft. 

A  texture  for  a  fine  grade  of  crepon 
that  may  be  woven  either  on  the  jac- 
quard   or    harness    loom: 

Warp  arrangement,  4  ends  face 
warp,  2  ends  in  1  heddle,  1^  dram 
silk;  20  X  3  reed;  1  end  back  warp,  2- 
60s  cotton:  filling  3  picks,  1  dram  silk, 
1  pick,  2-30S  worsted;  80  picks  per 
inch.  60  face  picks,  20  back  picks. 

This  construction  can  be  made  up  to 
the  best  advantage,  in  regard  to  pat- 
tern, with  the  jacquard  loom. 

In  finishing  the  cheaper  ^ades, 
wherein  the  fabric  is  made  up  of  cot- 
ton and  worsted,  the  cotton  yam  is 
dyed  before  it  reaches  the  loom.  After 
the  fabric  is  woven  it  is  dyed  for  the 
worsted.     The    prevailing    color    for 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


691 


these  fabrics  is  solid  black.  The  wor- 
sted in  the  goods  contracts  consider- 
ably during  the  finishing,  producing 
the  blister  effect  by  which  the  goods 
are  characterized. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Crepon  is  made  up  in  many  differ- 
ent ways  and  out  of  different  fibres, 
sometimes  wool  and  cotton  yarns  be- 
ing employed.  Other  combinations  are 
cotton  and  silk,  wool  and  worsted,  all 
wool,  all  worsted,  all  cotton,  etc. 
When  the  same  fibre  is  used  through- 
out the  cloth,  the  twist  put  in  the  yarn 
plays  a  very  important  part.  For  ex- 
ample, one  yarn,  generally  the  warp, 
is  very  tightly  twisted,  while  the  fill- 
ing yam  is  stock  twisted.  When  the 
cloth  constructed  from  these  yarns  is 
dyed,  the  action  of  the  dye  on  the 
yarns  is  entirely  different  and  con^ 
tracts  one  more  than  the  other,  thus 
causing  the  raised  or  puffed  effect  of 
crepon. 

ANOTHER  METHOD 

used  is  to  have  part  of  the  warp  yam 
with  the  regular  twist,  while  another 
part  has  a  reverse  twist  put  in,  the 
effect  produced  being  the  same  as  be- 
fore. In  the  cloth  under  description 
the  backing  or  picking  warp  is  to  be 
2-60s  cotton  yarn.  To  produce  this  yarn 
the  mechanics'  data,  etc.,  required 
would  be  as  follows:  The  mixing 
should  be  as  large  as  possible  and 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  at  least  48 
hours  before  being  used,  so  that  the 
cotton  will  have  become  thoroughly 
expanded. 

THE  COTTON 

should  be  of  a  good  middling  grade 
and  of  1 5-16-inch  staple.  The  raw 
stock  is  passed  through  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking.  The  hop- 
per of  the  opener  should  be  kept 
full  of  cotton,  a  small  percentage  of 
good  waste  from  the  machines  up  to 
the  slubber  being  put  in  at  this  ma- 
chine. The  speed  of  the  beater,  which 
is  generally  of  the  two-bladed,  rigid 
type,  should  be  at  least  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap   at   the   front   end   should   be    40 


pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap  (the  total 
weights  given  are  for  a  lap  40  yards 
in  length).  Four  of  these  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker  and 
run  through  and  made  into  a  lap 
weighing  38  pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  for  this  ma- 
chine is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
These  laps  are  in  turn  put  up  at  the 
back  of 

THE    FINISHER   PICKER. 

The  speed  of  this  beater  is  1,350  to 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  39 
pounds,  or  a  14%-ounce  lap.  Every  lap 
should  be  weighed  and  all  laps  varying 
more  than  one-half  a  pound  from  the 
standard  should  be  put  to  the  back  of 
the  finisher  picker  and  run  through 
again.  It  is  very  important  to  see  that 
this  Is  done,  because  nothing  will 
throw  yarn  numbers  off  more  quickly 
than  laps  that  vary. 

Another  important  question  in  the 
picker  room  is  what  to  do  with  the 

CUT-ROVING  WASTE. 
Of  course,  the  best  thing  to  do  Is  not 
to  make  it.  As  it  is  made,  the  next 
question  is  how  to  use  it  up.  Up-to- 
date  mills  are  installing  a  cut -roving 
waste  machine  in  their  plants,  but 
there  are  a  great  many  mills  which 
have  no  such  machine.  In  this  case 
the  waste  is  put  through  the  interme- 
diate picker,  the  two  center  laps  at 
the  back  of  the  picker  being  removed 
and  the  waste  spread  evenly  between 
the  two  remaining  laps.  To  help  stop 
these  laps  from  licking,  four  or  six 
ends  of  slubber  roving  are  run  into 
the  lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  picker. 
These  laps  are  run  in  with  the  raw 
stock  laps  at  the  back  of  the  finish- 
er picker  in  the  proportion  of  one  lap 
of  cut  waste  to  three  laps  of  cotton 
as  long  as  they  last.  As  little  cut 
waste  should  be  run  as  possible,  be- 
cause It  not  only  causes  licking  laps, 
but  it 

CAUSES  UNEVEN   WORK 
and  weak  roving  and  yarn;   it  is  con- 
tinually breaking  back  in   the  creels, 
requiring  one  and  sometimes  two  teeth 
of  twist   more   than   when   not   used. 


692 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


The  laps  from  the  picker  are  put  up 
at  the  card,  the  setting  of  which 
should  be  the  same  as  given  in  pre- 
vious articles  when  the  same  grade 
and  staple  of  cotton  were  used.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  should  he  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  37  minutes.  The 
speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be  300 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  produc- 
tion should  be  about  550  pounds  for 
a  week  of  60  hours.  Watch  all  the 
setting  points.  Set  at  least  once  u 
month  all  over.  Grind  cards  lightly 
and  often.  Strip  three  times  a  day  and 
keep  cards  as  clean  as  possible  and 
well  oiled.  Doff  cans  when  full  and 
don't  allow  them  to  become  so  full 
that  they  fall  over.  Care  should 
be  taken  that  no  single  or  double  is 
allowed  to  pass  through. 
The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
for  this  kind  of  work  should  not  be 
less  than  100  and  the  sliver  should 
weigh  50  grains.  This  sliver  may  be 
either  combed  or  passed  directly  to 
the  drawing  frame.  Generally,  howev- 
er, it  is  combed.  Different  methods 
and  machines  are  used  nowadays  for 
combing,  but  the  general  method  is 
to  have  the  card  sliver  inn  through 
a  sliver  lap  machine,  where  it  is  dou- 
bled 14  into  1,  and  the  weight  of  the 
lap  is  300  grains  per  yard.  From  here 
it  is  passed  to  the  ribbon  lap  machine 
and  doubled  6  into  1.  The  weight  of 
a  yard  of  lap  at  this  machine  is  290. 
From  here  it  is  passed  to 

THE    COMBER 

and  doubled  6  into  1,  the  weight  of  a 
yard  of  sliver  being  60  grains.  At 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  the  laps  should 
be  sized  once  a  day,  and  if  the  weights 
are  coming  uneven,  twice  or  even  three 
times  a  day.  The  comber  sliver  is 
next  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  doublings  being  8  into  1 
at  the  breaker  and  6  into  1  at  the 
finisher.  The  weight  of  sliver  at  the 
finisher  is  80  grains  per  yard.  This 
cotton  is  then  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .40  hank  roving.  At 
the  first  intermediate  the  roving  is  1 
hank  and  at  the  second  3  hank,  while 
at  the  jacks  the  roving  is  12  hank.   Be 


careful  of  the  settings  of  the  rolls. 
They  should  not  be  spread  too  far 
apart,  causing  a  strain,  nor  should 
they  be  so  close  as  to  cause  a  breaking 
of  the  fibre.  The  12-hank  roving  is 
spun  into  60s  on  a  spinning  frame  hav- 
ing a  2S-inch  gauge  of  frame,  1%-inch 
diameter  ring,  and  a  6 -inch  traverse. 
The  twist  put  in  is  in  excess  of  that 
generally  used  for  warp  yarn,  some- 
times as  high  as  6.40  times  the  square 
root  of  the  count  being  used,  instead 
of  4.25,  the  usual  twist.  After  being 
spun,  the  yarn  is  spooled  and  twisted 
into  2-ply  60s  yarn,  after  which  it  is 
warped  and  run  through  the  slasher 
and  beamed. 


Dyeing    Particulars 

Crepons  are  woven  sometimes  with 
a  black  warp,  dyed  with  sulphur  black 
and  piece  dyed  with  wool  colors. 

BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
black  PF. ;  4  per  cent  acetic  acid;  1 
per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.  Boil  45  min- 
utes. After-chrome  with  1  per  cent  bi- 
chrome  30  minutes. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Four  per  cent  azo  chrome  blue  TB.; 
4  per  cent  acetic  acid;  1  per  cent  oil 
of  vitriol.  After-chrome,  1  per  cent  bi- 
chrome  30  minutes. 

The  warps  are  also  colored  with  im- 
medial  sulphur  colors  to  shades  re- 
quired and  dyed  in  the  piece  with 
wool  colors. 

BROWN. 

Two  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
brown  DW. ;  1  per  cent  anthracene 
acid  brown  G. ;  Vz  per  cent  anthracene 
yellow  BN. ;  3  per  cent  oil  vitriol. 
After-chrome,  IVz  per  cent  chrome. 

PEARL. 

One -quarter  per  cent  anthracene 
chrome  blue  G.;  1  per  cent  oil  of  vit- 
riol. After-chrome,  2  ounces  bichrome. 
SLATE. 

One  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
blue  G. ;  Vs  of  an  ounce  anthracene 
yellow  BN.;  2  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


693 


After-chrome,  1  per  cent  bichrome. 
MODE. 
Four  ounces  anthracene  chrome 
blue  G. ;  2  ounces  anthracene  chrome 
red  A.;  1^  ounces  anthracene  yellow 
BN. ;  2  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.  After- 
chrome,  1  per  cent  bichrome. 

SNUFF  BROWN. 
One-half  per  cent  anthracene 
chrome  red  A.;  li/^  per  cent  anthra- 
cene chrome  brown  D.;_li/4  per  cent 
anthracene  yellow  BN.;  ^  per  cent 
anthracene  chrome  blue  F. ;  3  per  cent 
oil  of  vitriol.  After- chrome,  1^^  per 
cent  bichrome. 

GREEN. 
Three  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
blue  G.;  1  per  cent  brilliant  milling 
green  B.;  l^^  per  cent  anthracene  yel- 
low BN.;  4  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.  Aft- 
er-chrome, 2  per  cent  bichrome. 

WINE. 

Two  per  cent  wool  red  B.;  1  per 
cent  anthracene  chrome  blue  R. ;  3 
per  cent  acetic  acid;  1  per  cent  oil  of 
vitriol.  After-chrome,  1  per  cent  bi- 
chrome. 

SAGE. 

Two  ounces  anthracene  chrome  blue 
BB. ;  2  ounces  anthracene  yellow  BN.; 
1-16  ounce  anthracene  red  A.;  1  per 
cent  oil  of  vitriol.  After-chrome,  1  per 
cent  bichrome. 


SHADE  CLOTH 

Shade  cloths  for  window  shades, 
window  curtains  or  window  blinds  de- 
rive their  name  from  the  use  to  which 
they  are  intended  to  be  subjected. 
They  comprise  a  large  variety  of 
counts,  widths,  weights  and  qualities. 
The  lower  grades  are  made  from  low 
to  medium  qualities  of  stock,  extend- 
ing to  the  usual  grades  of  print  cloth 
fabrics.  Better  grades  are  made  in  all 
numbers  of  cotton  to  the  best  Egyp- 
tian  and   Sea   Island. 

The  widths  vary  from  a  few  Inches 
for  small  door  and  house  windows  to 
three  or  four  yards,  or  more,  for  large 
plate  glass  store  windows.   The  gen- 


eral run  of  goods  is  of  medium  width. 
The  narrow  shades  are  made  by  cut- 
ting a  wider  cloth  in  two  or  more  sec- 
tions or  narrow  widths.  For  exam- 
ple, a  shade  cloth  finishing  54  inches 
wide  might  be  cut  in  three  strips,  each 
of  which  would  be  18  inches  in  width. 
The 

MEDIUM-WIDTH  GOODS 
are  woven  in  one  width,  with  two  sel- 
vages only,  one  on  each  side.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  have  special  sel- 
vages for  each  width  (for  cloth  to  be 
cut  up  into  two  or  more  widths)  be- 
cause the  sizing  or  filling  put  onto 
and  into  the  goods  during  the  finish- 
ing process  prevents  the  edges  from 
unraveling  for  a  considerable  time 
after  they  have  been  cut  if  they  are 
handled   with   due   care. 

The  wide  shade  cloths  are  usually 
considerably  heavier  in  proportion 
than  the  narrow  goods  on  account  of 
the  extra  hard  usage  to  which  they 
are  subjected. 

THE  DISTINGUISHING  FEATURE  • 
of  these  goods  is  in  the  smooth,  pol- 
ished and  firm  appearance  of  the 
same  after  they  have  been  finished. 
They  are  usually  finished  in  white  or 
solid  colors,  or  with  a  printed  head- 
ing in  addition. 

The  cloth  basis  of  the  shade  may 
be  any  one  of  many  of  the  plain  wo- 
ven cloths  that  have  been  described, 
with  the  possible  extension  in  width 
as   noted. 

A  shade  cloth  under  consideration 
has  a  plain  cloth  for  a  basis  of  the 
following  construction:  Width,  44 
Inches;  ends  per  inch,  64;  picks  per 
inch,  64;  length,  100  yards;  weight, 
3%  yards  per  pound;  warp  counts, 
22s;  filling  counts,  24s.  The  finished 
width  of  this  cloth  is  42  inches. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 

The  loom  required  will  vary  in 
slight  details  according  to  the  weight 
and  width  of  cloth  required.  For  nar- 
row goods  the  automatic  or  quick  run- 
ning plain  looms  will  answer  all  re- 
quirements, the  weave  being  plain  in 
all  cases,  with  one  warp  and  one  fill- 
ing only  required. 

The  principal  change  necessary  to 


694 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


weave  wide  fabrics  is  in  placing  two 
or  more  warps  in  the  loom,  end  to  end, 
instead  of  one  large  beam.  These  sec- 
tional warps  are  run  on  shells  instead 
of  solid  beams.  The  rod  running 
through  them  all  is  supported  on  bear- 
-  ings  between  every  two  shells,  as  well 
as  at  the  ends,  when  in  the  loom. 

Combining  warps  in  this  manner  ob- 
viates the  necessity  of  having  to  pre- 
pare them  on  a  very  wide  slasher, 
which  would  otherwise  be  necessary 
to  accommodate  the  wide  beam,  as 
well  as  overcomes  the  difficulty 
caused  by  long  beams  warping  and  get- 
ting  out  of   true. 

FINISHING. 

The  cloths  are  woven  white,  then 
piece-dyed  in  the  color  or  tint  requir- 
ed. 

One  method  of  finishing  42  inch 
shade  goods  is  as  follows:  Shear  and 
singe  on  both  sides  so  that  all  loose 
.fibres  are  dispensed  with;  wash, 
bleach,  dye,  mangle  and  dry.  After 
being  cooled,  run  through  a  damping 
machine  and  allow  to  remain  in  a 
damp  state  for  a  short  time,  then 
stretch  on  the  belt-stretching  machine 
to  43  inches  in  width,  after  which  fill 
on  the  friction  starch  mangle  with 
the  following  mixture:  Maize  or  corn- 
starch, 100  pounds;  oleine  oil,  50  per 
cent,  two  quarts;  carbolic  acid,  one- 
half  pint.  Water  sufficient  to  make, 
when  boiled,  100  gallons.  After  filling, 
dry  on  drying  machine  and  allow  to 
cool;  run  through  damping  machine 
and  allow  to  lie  at  least  two  hours. 
Run  through  wide  or  Scotch  hydraulic 
mangle;  strip,  turn  and  repeat  the 
process.  Strip,  run  through  canroy 
machine. 

For  white  shade  cloth  the  dyeing 
process  is  not  necessary.  Fancy  shade 
cloths,  in  addition  to  the  processes 
noted,  are  run  through  a  printing  ma- 
chine for  the  purpose  of  receiving  a 
pattern  at  one  end  of  each  shade.  The 
color  or  tinsel  applied  is  of  a  firm  char- 
acter. The  patterns  are  printed  every 
so  often  in  the  piece,  according  to  the 
length  of  shade  required,  and  extend 
from  side  to  side. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

For  carding  and  spinning  particulars 
the  reader  is  referred  to  the  warp 
data  in  the  article  on  "Buckram,"  and 
to  the  filling  data  in  the  article  on 
"Book  Muslin." 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
These  goods  are  dyed  on  the  jig  in 
rolls  of  about   10  pieces  of  50   yards, 
With  sulphur  colors. 

ECRU. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G.; 
Vs  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D.;  1  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt;  after-chromed 
with  V^  per  cent  chrome. 

OLIVE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D. ;  2 
per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B. ;  2 
per  cent  immedial  olive  B.;  5  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt;  after-chrome  with  1 
per  cent  chrome. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  Immedial  blue  B.;  2  per 
cent  immedial  indone  R. ;   12  per  cent 
sulphide   sodium;    2   per  cent   caustic 
soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 

DARK  GREEN. 
Ten   per  cent  Immedial  green  BB. ; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
caustic  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
MAROON. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B.; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  of  sodium;  2  per 
cent   caustic   soda;    25   per  cent  salt; 
after-treat  with  1  per  cent  chrome. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  black  NLN.; 

1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent 
caustic  soda;  10  per  cent  salt;  after- 
treat  with  1/4  per  cent  chrome. 

RED. 
Eight  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  salt; 
after-treat  with  I14  per  cent  fluoride 
of  chrome. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  brown  B.;  5 
per  cent  Immedial   brown  G.;    10  per 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


695 


cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  caus- 
tic soda;  25  per  cent  salt;  after- 
chrome  with  IVz  per  cent  chrome. 


BISHOP'S  LAWN 

Bishop's  lawn  is  a  fine,  plain  woven 
fabric,  slightly  lighter  in  weight  than 
linon  or  Indja  linon.  It  is  a  white 
fabric  with  a  blue  tint,  and  is  princi- 

2,852    (ends)    x  105    (length) 


100    (counts)    X   840 

pally  used   for  light   dresses  and   un 


2,764    ground    ends    plus    88    selvage 
ends  total  2,852  ends. 

To  find  width  in  reed,  assuming  10 
per  cent  shrinkage  from  warp  to  fin- 
ished cloth:  27  inches  divided  by  .90 
or  90  per  cent  equals  30  inches  in 
reed. 

To  find  weight  of  warp,  assuming 
105  yards  of  warp  for  100  yards  of 
cloth : 

3.565   lbs.   warp  in   100  yards  cloth. 


derskirts. 


To  find  weight  of  filling  in  100  yards 
of  cloth: 

112  (picks)  X  100  (length)  x  30  (width  in  reed) 

— =     3.333    lbs. 


filllns 


120    (counts)    X  840 


Like  a  great  many  other  plain  cot- 
ton goods,  bishop's  lawn  varies  slight- 
ly in  weight,  count  and  quality,  but  the 
latter  is  usually  very  good. 

The  finish  and  blue  tint  seen  in 
these  goods  are  the  principal  charac- 
teristic features  which  distinguish 
them  from  other  fine  cotton  fabrics. 
A  cloth  of  the  same  construction  and 
quality  might  be  known  by  another 
name  if  finished  differently. 

The 

ANALYSIS 

of  a  bishop's  lawn  of  good  quality  in- 
dicates the  following  construction: 
ends  per  inch,  104;  picks  per  inch,  112, 
warp  counts,  100;  filling  counts,  120; 
finished   width,   27    inches. 

The  ground  of  the  fabric  is  reeded 
two  ends  per  dent.  The  selvage  is 
neat,  the  yarns  being  arranged  in  a 
somewhat  unusual  manner.  From  the 
ground  cloth  outward,  they  are  as  fol- 
lows: 

12  ends  singles  in  four  dents;  ~24 
ends  as  12  in  six  dents;  8  ends  as  2  in 
one  dent;  total,  44  selvage  ends  in  11 
dents  on  each  side. 

The  selvage  and  ground  ends  are  of 
the  same  counts. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number  of  ends  in  warp: 
104  (sley)  divided  by  2  (ends  per 
dent)  equals  52  dents  per  inch;  52  x  27 
(width)  equals  1.404  dents  occupied  by 
warp;  1,404 — 22  for  selvages  equals  1,- 
382  dents  for  ground ;  1,382  x  2  equals 


To  find  weight  of  cut: 

3.565   lbs.    warp. 
3.333   lbs.    filling. 


6.S98   lbs.    weight    of    100    yard    cut. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 
100  (length)  divided  by  6,898 
(weight)  equals  14.49,  say  14%  yards 
per  pound. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

This  fabric  may  be  woven  on  any 
of  the  light  running  cam,  single-box 
looms.  One  beam  only  is  required. 
On  account  of  the  large  number  of 
ends  per  inch,  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  have  a  coarser  twine  harness 
than  is  absolutely  necessary.  If  diffi- 
culty is  experienced  with  crowded 
heddles  and  ends,  the  cone  motion 
may  be  substituteci  for  the  cams  with 
advantage. 

FINISHING. 

After  being  prepared  and  bleached 
in  the  ordinary  manner,  the  goods  are 
opened  out  to  the  full  width  and  run 
through  a  light  starch,  blued  to  suit 
requirements,  on  a  starch  mangle,  and 
dried.  They  are  then  dampened,  cal- 
endered on  a  "swissing"  or  "rolling" 
calender,  folded  and  made  up  as  re- 
quired. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Bishop's  lawn  is  made  in  mills  hav- 
ing the  equipment  of  machinery  as 
given  in  the  third  division,  i.  e.,  ma- 
chines for  making  fine  counts  of  yarns. 


696 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


On  this  class  of  goods  the  sampling  of 
the  cotton  as  to  grade  and  staple  is  a 
very  important  part  in  the  finished 
fabric.  The  counts  of  the  yarn  of  the 
sample  of  the  cloth  taken  for  descrip- 
tion are  for  the  warps  100s  and  for  the 
filling  yarn  120s.  For  these  counts  the 
cotton  used  would  be  Sea  Island  and 
the  staple  1%  inches.  Every  bale 
should  be  graded  and  stapled  before  it 
is  allowed  to  be  put  into  the  mixing, 
and  this  mixing  should  be  allowed  to 
stand  as  long  as  possible  and  also 
should  be  as  large  as  convenient.  For 
this  class  of  cotton  it  would  be  better 
if  it  were  opened  and  put  through  a 
blower  and  then  sent  through  a  line  of 
trunking,  so  that  it  would  be  dried  out 
as  much  as  possible  before  being 
worked. 

ONLY    TWO    PROCESSES  > 

of  pickers  and  an  opener  are  used  for 
this  cotton,  because  it  should  have  as 
little  beating  as  possible  to  get  the 
dirt  out.  The  usual  instructions  that 
have  already  been  given,  relative  to 
the  opener  and  pickers,  should  be  fol- 
lowed. The  speed  of  the  breaker  beat- 
er (which  should  be  of  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type)  should  be  1,350  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  the  lap  in  front  should 
weigh  29  pounds.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  back  of  the  finisher  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of 
this  beater  should  be  1,200  revolutions 
per  minute,  which  gives  the  cotton 
passing  through  about  29  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.  For  this  class  of  goods 
it  is  not  the  general  custom  to  mix  in 
cut  waste.  The  picker  room  should 
be  looked  after  to  see  that  all  the 
eveners  are  working  properly  and  to 
try  and  make  laps  that  don't  split.  In 
order  to  do  this,  look  after 

THE  DRAFTS 
to  see  that  they  are  putting  the  cotton 
passing  through  the  picker  in  the  prop- 
er place.  At  the  finisher  picker  the 
laps,  as  they  are  taken  off,  should 
be  weighed,  and  all  those  having  a  va- 
riation of  half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  should  not  be  al- 
lowed to  be  put  up  at  the  card,  but 
should  be  run  over  again.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  at  the  finisher  should 


be  30  pounds  or  a  10 -ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card.  This  card 
should  be  set  close  at  the  points  be- 
tween the  cylinder  and  doffer  and  cyl- 
inder and  flats  and  also  between  the 
cylinder  and  licker-in,  but  between  the 
licker-in  and  feed  plate  the  setting 
should  be  so  that  the  distance  between 
the  bite  of  the  feed  roll  and  teeth  of 
the  licker-in  is  just  a  little  greater 
than   the  length  of  the  staple.     It  is 

A  GENERAL  FAULT 

of  carders  to  set  these  two  parts  the 
same  for  all  lengths  of  staple,  and 
this  should  be  looked  after  and  rem- 
edied, because  if  the  proper  distance  is 
not  maintained  between  these  parts 
the  stock  will  be  shorter  in  length  at 
the  front  (if  set  too  close),  or  will 
not  be  properly  carded  (if  set  too  far 
apart).  For  long-staple  cotton,  some 
overseers  claim  that  it  is  an  advan- 
tage to  reduce  the  speed  of  the  licker- 
in.  Their  reason  for  so  doing  is 
they  claim  that  the  licker-in  is  noth- 
ing more  or  less  than  a  beater,  and  if 
we  slow  down  the  beater  for 
long-staple  cotton,  why  not  slow  down 
the  licker-in  in  the  same  proportion? 
The  wire  fillet  used  on  the  cylinder 
should  be  No.  110s,  or  No.  34s  wire, 
and  for  the  doffer  and  top  fiats  No. 
130s,  or  36s  wire.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  FLATS 
should  be  one  complete  revolution  ev- 
ery 38  minutes  and  the  licker-in  30 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day, 
and  ground  at  least  once  a  month.  The 
fiats  should  be  ground  so  as  to  al- 
ways have  a  sharp  needle  point.  If 
possible,  the  fiats  should  be  taken  off 
and  ground  on  a  fiat  grinding  machine 
and  it  will  be  found  that  the  best  re- 
sults will  be  obtained.  The  production 
of  a  card  for  a  week  of  60  hours  should 
be  225  pounds;  the  weight  of  the  sliv- 
er, 35  grains  per  yard;  the  draft  of 
the  card  being  125.  In  this  article,  we 
have  drafted  high  and  carded  light. 
In  some  cases,  for  this  kind  of  goods 
and  cotton,  overseers  have  been  known 
to  draft  as  high  as  180,  which  makes 
our  draft  of  125  look  rather  small. 
After  passing  the  cards,  the  sliver  is 
put  through  either  a  line  of  drawing 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


697 


Or  a  sliver  lap  machine,  according  to 
the  layout  of  the  mill.  In  mills  that 
are  now  being  built  and  in  the  old 
mills  that  are  installing  new  machin- 
ery, the  combers  being  put  in  are  of 
different  types  and  some  prefer  the 
new  style  single  head  comber,  while 
others  prefer  the  older  style  8  head 
comber  or  6  head  comber  as  the  case 
may  be.  The  single  head  comber 
seems  to  have  some  preference  among 
mill  men,  inasmuch  as  it  does  not 
take  up  any  great  amount  of  space 
and  accomplishes  a  great  deal  of 
work. 

The  weights,  etc.,  that  we  give  in 
this  article  will  be  for  the  older  type 
of  8%-inch  width  laps.  The  weights 
for  larger  laps  may  be  obtained  by 
proportion.  We  will  also  assume  that 
the  equipment  is  as  follows:  Sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap  and  combers. 

The  doubling  at  the  sliver  lap  ma- 
chine is  14  into  i,  and  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  is  225  grains  per  yard.  At 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  the  doublings 
are  6  into  1,  the  weight  of  a  yard  of 
lap  being  200  grains  per  yard.  In 
some  mills,  the  sliver  laps  are  made  a 
little  heavier  and  only  five  doublings 
used  at  the  ribbon  lap.  When  this 
is  the  case,  the  weight  of  a  yard  of 
sliver  lap  is  270  grains  per  yard. 

For  the  top  leather  rolls  of  these 
machines  use  a 

VARNISH 

as  follows:  Seven  ounces  gelatine 
glue,  one  quart  acetic  acid,  two  tea- 
spoons oil  of  origanum.  Color  with 
burnt  sienna.  In  dog-day  weather  or 
for  slippery  cotton  use  ground  char- 
coal and  gum  arable.  This  varnish 
may  be  also  used  for  the  drawing 
frames  and  comber  rolls  (both  detach- 
ing and  those  in  the  draw  box).  The 
laps  from  the  ribbon  lap  machine  are 
put  up  at  the  comber.  At  this  ma- 
chine the  percentage  of  waste  taken 
out  is  22  to  25.  The  speed  is  85  nips 
per  minute.  The  rolls  should  be  var- 
nished at  least  once  every  two  weeks, 
needles  picked  and  brushes  cleaned 
once  a  week.  Comber  percentages 
should  be  taken  every  time  a  comber 
is  changed  from  one  stock  to  another 
and  the  percentage  of  four  every  day. 
Set  comber  same  as  for  Indian  lawn. 


The  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be 
about  35  grains  per  yard.  The  comb- 
er cans  should  be  put  up  at  the  back 
of  the  drawing  frame,  being  doubled 
6  into  1  at  both  the  breaker  and  finish- 
er.    The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
at  the  finisher  drawing  should  be 
65  grains  per  yard.  Watch  the  stop- 
motions  to  see  that  they  are  all  in 
proper  working  order  and  also  the 
roll  settings;  also  keep  the  rolls  well 
varnished.  At  the  slubber  the  draw- 
ing is  made  into  .80  hank  roving,  after 
which  it  is  put  through  three  processes 
of  fly  frames.  At  the  first  interme- 
diate it  is  made  into  2.25  hank,  at  the 
second  into  5,  and  at  the  fine  frame 
into  20  hank  for  warp  yarns;  for  fill- 
ing yarns  the  slubber  and  first  would 
be  the  same  hank,  at  the  second  in- 
termediate the  hank  is  six  and  at  the 
fine  frame,  24  hank.  Watch  the  build 
of  the  bobbins,  the  lay,  twist  and  ten- 
sion. Also  keep  a  sharp  watch  on 
double  and  single,  also  bunches.  Some- 
times the  slubber  and  first  intermedi- 
ate top  leather  rolls  are  varnished,  the 
varnish  used  being  a  little  lighter  than 
that  used  for  drawing  frames. 

THE  ROVING 
is  spun  into  100s  from  the  20  hank  rov- 
ing on  a  warp  frame  having  1%-inch 
diameter  ring,  5-inch  traverse,  and 
spindle  speed  of  9,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  put  through  the  slasher, 
at  which  the  follow-ing  size  may  be 
used:  100  gallons  of  water;  75  pounds 
potato  starch;  7  pounds  tallow;  3 
pounds  Yorkshire  gum;  2  pounds  white 
soap;  boil  two  hours  and  let  stand  10 
hours  before  using.  Keep  agitator 
running  and  size  almost  at  boiling 
point. 

The   24   hank  roving   is    made   into 
120s  yarn  on  the  mule. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  rose  B  D. ;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;   10  per  cent  salt. 
SKY  BLUE. 
One-quarter    per   cent    diamine   sky 
blue  F  F. ;  1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per 
cent  salt. 


698 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


CREAM. 

Two  grains  diamine  catechine  3  G. ; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 

ECRU. 

Two   per   cent  diamine   catechine   3 

G.;    Vi  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B. ; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 

PEA   GREEN. 
Two  ounces  diamine  green  B. ;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;   10  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F.;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  salt. 
SAGE  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  green   G. ;    1 
per  cent  sal  soda;   15  per  cent  salt. 
WINE. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B. ; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 

SCARLET. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B.; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
ROYAL  BLUE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue;    2 
per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 


ROBES 


A  cotton  fabric  with  an  unglazed 
surface,  printed  on  one  side  in  high- 
ly colored  patterns,  this  fabric  is  made 
up  into  robes,  wrappers  or  gowns, 
hence  the  name.  The  fabric  was  origi- 
nally produced  in  cashmere  effects, 
and  used  primarily  as  a  dress  fabric. 

This  fabric,  however,  resembles  in 
point  of  texture  and  general  appear- 
ance the  cloth  known  as  "cretonne," 
which  is  also  a  printed  cloth,  but  used 
principally  for  furniture  coverings, 
curtains,  comfortables  and  such  pur- 
poses. The  term  robes  is  applied  to 
both  twilled  and  plain  woven  fabrics. 
The  fabric  used  for  robes  is  usually 
made  from  a  64-square  printing  cloth, 
or  its  equivalent,  while  the  fabric 
used  for  household  purposes  is  made 
from  various  textures. 

The 

CHARACTER  OF  PATTERNS 
for  robes  is  almost  without  limit,  but 
the  scale,  or  size  of  the  figure  in  the 
design,    however,    should   not    be   too 


large,  as  the  numerous  folds  would 
destroy  the  effect  of  the  repeat  of  the 
design.  The  designs  best  suited  for 
this  class  of  goods  are  small  floral  or 
geometrical  figures,  distributed  in  such 
a  manner  that  they  will  not  appear  in 
the  finished  garment  in  rows  or  lines, 
but  rather  in  an  all-over  effect,  so  that 
the  various  figures  constituting  the 
design  may  be  seen  at  a  glance. 

THE  COLORINGS 
may  be  almost  any  conceivable  com- 
bination imaginable,  providing,  of 
course,  that  there  be  harmony  in  the 
colors  used.  The  number  of  colors  used 
varies  from  4  to  10  different  shades, 
the  darker  colors  usually  forming  the 
background,  while  the  lighter  and 
brighter  colors   form  the   figures. 

In  regard  to  the  construction  for 
these  fabrics  the  designer  has  little  in 
the  way  of  ingenuity,  the  important 
feature  of  the  goods  depending  on  the 
printing  machine. 

The  fabric  is  composed  of  plain  cot- 
ton yarn  with 

THE  COUNTS 
varying  very  little,  a  common  texture 
being  64  ends  and  64  picks,  of  1-303 
both  warp  and  filling,  sometimes  ar- 
ranged 70  ends  and  58  picks,  another 
texture  being  made  with  64  ends  and 
48  picks,  l-30s  warp  and  l-26s  filling, 
made  in  widths  from  27  to  36  inches. 

The  goods  are  woven  on  high  speed 
looms.  The  automatic  loom  is  well 
adapted  for  this  class  of  goods.  The 
cost  of  weaving  is  an  important  con- 
sideration in  the  production  of  these 
goods,  as  the  retail  price  does  not  war- 
rant an  unnecessary  expense. 
FINISHING. 

The  goods,  after  being  woven,  are 
prepared  for  the  printer  by  boiling 
off,  then  passed  over  heated  cylinders 
to  dry.  after  which  they  are  ready  for 
printing.  After  the  printing  process 
they  are  ready  for  the  merchant. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  to  make  robes  are 
manufactured  in  the  first  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  mixture  for  this  cloth 
varies   according   to   the   mill   making 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


699 


the  goods  and  also  the  quality  of  the 
goods  required  of  the  manufacturer. 
Generally  speaking,  there  is  a  certain 
percentage  of  waste  used  for  this 
class  of  goods,  and  not  only  the  per- 
centage differs,  but  the  quality  of  the 
waste  used  also.  Some  mills  will  use 
only  comber  waste,  and  other  mills 
only  comber  and  card  waste,  while 
other  mills  will  use  any  kind  of  waste 
they  can  obtain,  and  run  it  through. 
The  mixing  plays  an  important  part 
and  the  percentage  of  waste  put  in 
varies  from  10  to  100  per  cent.  Pro- 
duction and  plenty  of  it  is  the  cry 
of  the  owners  making  this  class  of 
goods.  This  being  the  case,  quality  la 
somewhat  lacking.  To  make  up  for 
this,  the  goods  are  brushed,  which  has 
a  twofold  advantage.     It  gives  a 

NAP 

to  the  goods,  as  well  as  hides  the  neps 
in  the  cloth.  When  good  raw  stock  is 
used,  the  length  of  staple  is  short, 
rarely  being  over  1-1-16  inches  in 
length.  The  counts  for  the  sample  of 
cloth  under  description  are  30s  for 
both  warp  and  filling.  The  mixings 
are  made,  as  before  stated,  large  and 
with  the  proper  proportion  of  waste 
mixed  in.  This  is  then  run  through 
three  processes  of  pickers,  first  being 
run  through  an  opener.  This  opener 
has  a  fan,  which  makes  165  revolutions 
and  carries  the  cotton  to  the  aprons 
of  the  breaker  picker  and  leaves  the 
cotton  in  an  open,  airy  state.  This 
lattice  or  apron  carries  the  cotton  to 
the  feed  rolls  of  the  beater.  This 
beater  is  of  the  two-bladed  type  and 
makes  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  proper  drafts  should  be  maintain- 
ed at  both  pickers,  so  that  a  hard  lap 
will  be  made.  There  are  several  meth- 
ods by  which,  it  is  claimed,  the  laps 
may  be  made  and  will  run  off  smoothly 
and  without  licking,  but  as  near  as 
can  be  found  out  by  experimenting, 
no  one  remedy  will  fill  all  conditions. 
Judgment  at  this  point  is  needed.  The 
weight  of  a  full  lap  at  the  head  end  of 
the  breaker  picker  should  be  about  16 
ounces  per  yard.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  intermediate  picker  and  dou- 
bled 4  into  1.  This  picker  is  equipped 
with  a  two-bladed,  rigrfd  type  of  beater 


and  has  a  speed  of  1,450   revolutions 
per  minute. 

THE  TOTAL  WEIGHT 
of  a  lap  from  this  machine  is  37 
pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  has  the 
same  style  of  beater  as  the  other  two; 
the  speed  is,  however,  slightly  re- 
duced, being  1,375  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  total  weight  of  a  lap  is  39 
pounds,  or  a  14  V^ -ounce  lap.  In  some 
mills  they  omit  the  intermediate 
process  of  pickers,  using  just  the 
breaker  and  finisher,  and  for  this  class 
of  goods  would  advise  two  processes 
of  picking.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card.  For  this  class  of  work  the  draft 
of  the  card  does  not  exceed  90  and 
very  often  is  not  more  than  85.  The 
card  fillet  used  on  both  the  doffer  and 
cylinder,  as  well  as  the  flats,  is  coarse. 
The  general  count  used  is  No.  33  wire 
or  No.  100s  for  cylinder  and  No.  35  or 
No.  120s  count  for  the  doffer  and  flats. 
The  settings  used  for  this  class  of 
work  are  similar  to  those  given  for  in- 
digo prints.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder 
is  165  revolutions  per  minute;  licker- 
in,  350  revolutions  per  minute;  flats, 
one  complete  revolution  every  50  min- 
utes. The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  65 
grains  per  yard,  and  the  production  is 
from  850  to  1,000  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours,  according  to  the  quality  and 
quantity  require<l. 

THE  CARD 
for  this  class  of  work  should  be  ground 
once  a  month  and  stripped  twice  a  day, 
although  in  some  instances  the  doffer 
is  stripped  a  third  time.  The  waste  ta- 
ken out  should  not  exceed  8  per  cent. 
After  leaving  the  card  the  sliver  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing, 
the  doublings  at  the  breaker  being  6 
into  1,  and  at  the  finisher  6  into  1. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  is  75 
grains.  The  speed  of  the  front  roll 
largely  depends  on  the  call  for  draw- 
ing, and  the  manner  in  which  the  room 
is  balanced.  As  frequently  happens, 
the  drawing  frame  is  the  machine  to 
get  an  increase  in  speed  so  as  to  keep 
up  with  the  slubbers  or  cards,  and  to 
do  so  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  is 
increased.    The  speed  varies  from  325 


700 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


to  450  revolutions  per  minute,  accord- 
ing to  requirements.  As  tlie  drawing 
frame  is  the  last  machine  that  can 
really  be  said  to  even  the  sliver,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  all  stop- 
motions  are  in  perfect  working  order, 
and  that  they  act  quickly  so  as  to  pre- 
vent an  end  passing  through  before 
the  frame  stops.  Whole  sets  of  draw- 
ing or  card  sliver  should  not  be  put 
up  at  the  back  of  the  frame,  because 
it  tends  to  make  uneven  yarn.  If  a 
size  at  the  front  be  taken  when  the 
tops  of  a  can  are  running  through,  it 
will  be  found  to  be  heavier  than  the 
standard;  the  middle  about  the  stand- 
ard, and  when  the  can  is  almost  emp- 
ty it  will  size  light.  If  the  cans  are 
equipped  with  springs,  it  will  help 
overcome  this  defect  to  a  large  ex- 
tent, and  it  will  also  help  to  stop  the 
"breaking  back"  of  the  ends. 

THE  DRAWING 
is  put  up  at  the  back  of  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .60  hank  roving,  after 
which  it  passes  through  two  processes 
of  fly  frames  and  is  made  into  2  hank 
roving  at  the  intermediate,  and  6  at 
the  fine  frame.  The  proper  lay  of  the 
roving  on  the  bobbin  is  14  rows  per 
inch  for  the  2  hank,  and  33  lays  per 
inch  for  the  6  hank  roving.  Twist  jack 
roving  so  that  it  will  bear  its  own 
weight  when  put  in  the  creels  at  the 
successive  machines.  Be  particularly 
careful  about  single,  double  and 
bunches.  Sizing  should  be  accom- 
plished at  the  picker  as  follows:  Every 
finisher  lap  should  be  weighed  and  if 
the  weight  varies  more  than  half  a 
pound,  either  side  of  standard  weight, 
it  is  put  back  to  be  run  over  again. 
The  cards  should  be  sized  once  a  week. 
The  drawing  frame  finisher  should  be 
sized  four  times  a  day,  and  a  varia- 
tion of  two  grains  to  the  yard  either 
side  of  standard  should  mean  a 
change.  The  fine  roving  is  sized  once 
a  day  and  there  is  no  hard  and  fast 
rule  for  changing. 

The  6-hank  roving  is  spun  into  30s 
warp  yarn  on  the  spinning  frame,  2 
into  1  on  a  frame  having  a  1%-inch 
diameter  ring,  2%-inch  gauge  of  spin- 
dle, 6 1/^ -inch  traverse  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. As  soft  a  twist  as  possible  is  used 


so  that  it  will  nap  well.  The  yarn  is 
next  spooled  and  warped,  and  run 
through  a  slasher.  The  6-hank  roving 
for  the  filling  yarn  is  spun  into  303 
filling  at  the  mule,  as  it  requires  a 
soft  twist,  for  reasons  before  stated. 
After  being  spun  it  is  taken  to  the 
conditioning  room  and  remains  there 
until  wanted  for  use. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

NAVY   BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  indone  blue  2 
B. ;    10   per   cent   sulphide    sodium;    4 
per  cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
GREEN, 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green  G  G. ; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F. ;   2 
per  cent  sal  soda;    30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's; after-treat  with  2  per  cent  fluo- 
ride of  chrome. 

YELLOW. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  yellow  G  G.; 
5   per   cent   sulphide   sodium;    30   per 
cent  salt;   4  per  cent  soda  ash. 
OLIVE. 

Four  per  cent  immedial  olive  3  G.; 

4  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  30  per 
cent  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  brown  B. ; 

5  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O.;  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  so- 
da ash. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  dark  green 
B.;  8  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  4  per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
ORANGE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  orange  C; 
10   per   cent   sodium   sulphide;    4   per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
BORDEAUX. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G.; 
10   per   cent   sodium   sulphide;    4   per 
cent  soda  ash;  40  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N.; 
2  per  cent  soda  ash;  1  per  cent  sodt 
um  sulphide;  25  per  cent  salt 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


701 


ECRU. 

One  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G.;  % 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D. ;  2  per 
cent  sodium  sulphate;  25  per  cent 
salt. 

BLACK. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  brilliant  black 
5  B  V. ;  6  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  4 
per  cent  soda  ash;   50  per  cent  salt. 


BENGAL  STRIPES 

Bengal  stripes  is  a  name  given  to  a 
type  of  gingham  consisting  of  white 
and  colored  stripes,  alternately  ar- 
ranged in  small  effects  in  regular  or- 
der, the  colored  yarn  having  been 
dyed  with  Bengal  indigo. 

They  were  originally  made  in  Ben- 
gal, India,  the  home  of  some  of  the 
many  species  of  the  plant  from  which 
indigo  is  extracted,  Indigo  Fera,  and 
derive  their  name  from  that  fact.  They 
differ  from  some  other  types  of  strip- 
ed ginghams  only  in  having  colored 
warp  yarns  that  have  been  dyed  with 
Bengal  indigo. 

INDIGO 

has  been  used  as  a  dyestuff  for  hun- 
dreds of  years  and  has  attained  a  rep- 
utation for  itself  that  is  responsible 
for  a  continued  call  for  indigo-dy-ed 
goods  in  the  market,  although  similar 
appearing  goods  may  be  made  much 
more  cheaply  with  modern  aniline 
dyes.  Goods  dyed  with  the  latter 
possess  more  merit  than  most  of 
the  so-called  indigo-dyed  goods,  the 
colors  of  which  do  not  penetrate  be- 
yond the  surface  of  the  yarns. 

Indigo  dyeing,  if  done  properly,  re- 
quires more  time  than  is  now  thought 
advisable  or  necessary  to  devote  to, 
any  ordinary  class  of  dyed  goods  and 
has  been  substituted  to  a  very  large 
extent  by  anilines.  The  amount  of  in- 
digo used  has  been  steadily  growing 
less  for  a  number  of  years,  and  it  ap- 
pears probable  that  there  will  be  very 
little  of  it  used  in  the  commercial 
world  a  few  years  hence. 

USES  OF  BENGAL  STRIPES. 

Bengal  stripes  are  used  principally 
for  skirtings,  aprons,  etc.  Fig.  1  is  an 
illustration    of    a    typical    fabric,  ^  the 


analysis  of  which  shows  it  to  be  an 
article  that  can  be  depended  upon  to 
wear  well. 

The  warp  yarns  are  arranged  8  of 
blue  and  4  of  white,  alternately,  the 
filling  being  all  white.  The  white 
yarn  in  both  warp  and  filling  has  been 
bleached  before  being  woven.  The 
blue  warp  yarn  was  dyed  in  the  skein 
with  Bengal  indigo. 

Many  of  the  heavy  fabrics  in  which 
color  is  used  are  now  made  more  eco- 
nomically through  the  stock  dyeing 
process.     In  this  method  the  raw  cot- 


Fig.   1. 


ton  is  bleached  and  then  dyed  what- 
ever color  is  deemed  necessary.  After 
this  process  is  completed  the  cotton 
is  handled  exactly  the  same  as  if  a 
grey  woven  fabric  were  to  be  made. 
The  color  penetrates  into  the  center 
of  yarns  in  this  method,  inasmuch  as 
the  stock  is  dyed  in  a  loose  state  and 
the  actual  dyeing  and  manufacturing 
is  more  economically  done  than  was 
formerly  the  case.  Some  concerns 
use  colors  which  are  absolutely  fast 
in  these  heavy  cloths,  while  others 
use  less  expensive  materials,  but  the 
method  of  procedure  is  identical. 
Few  new  mills  where  staple  fabrics 
with  more  or  less  staple  colors  are 
produced  are  being  built  to-day  where 
the  stock  dyeing  process  is  not  used. 

The  fabric  illustrated  is  practically 
a  warp  face  cloth,  the  warp  yarn 
showing  very  prominently  in  alternate 


702 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


blue  and  white  stripes,  whereas  the 
filling  is  almost  hidden.  Several  fac- 
tors tend  to  produce  this  effect,  among 
which  may  be  mentioned,  first  that 
two  out  of  every  three  ends  are  raised 
on  each  pick,  the  weave  being  the  3- 
end  warp  flush  twill  to  the  left  (Fig. 
2); 

■DB 
■■□ 

aum 
Fig.  2. 

second,  that  the  warp  yarns  are  hard- 
er twisted  than  the  filling  yarns  and 
are  approximately  twice  as  heavy; 
third  that  the  cloth  contains  consid- 
erably more  ends  than  picks  per  inch. 
ANALYSIS. 

An  analysis  of  the  fabric  shows  the 
following  construction  data:  Finished 
width,  29.7  inches;  ends  per  inch,  67.2; 
picks  per  inch,  48;  warp  pattern,  8 
blue  and  4  white;  warp  counts,  9s;  fill- 
ing counts,  16s;  yards  per  pound,  2.5. 

Perhaps  the  simplest  method  of 
counting  the  number  of  ends  per  inch 
in  a  stripe  pattern,  and  the  most  ac- 
curate, is  to  count  the  number  of 
ends  in  each  pattern;  or  if  the  latter 
is  small,  count  several  patterns  on  a 
given  width  and  calculate  accordingly. 

For  example,  there  are  12  ends  per 
pattern  in  Fig.l  and  7  patterns  on  1^4 
Inches. 


=    67.2    ends   per   in. 


7  (ends)  x  12  (patterns) 
1.25    (inches) 

The  greater  the  width  measured  and 
the  number  of  patterns  counted,  the 
less  the  liability  of  error.  WTien  the 
full  width  of  cloth  is  available  for 
analysis  purposes,  it  is  advisable  to 
measure  and  count  the  whole  number 
of  complete  patterns,  omitting  sections 
of  patterns  and  selvages. 

The  layout  of  the  entire  warp  Is  as 
follows: 

White         White 
for  for 

selvages,     ground.   Blue.  White.  Blue. 

10    as   9  =    10 

8} 
4  $164  times  =656      1,312 


10    as    9 


10 


676   1,320 
676  +  1,320  =  1,996  ends  in  the  warp. 

The  selvage  ends,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  two  outer  ends  on   each 


side,  are  drawn  single.  The  two  ends 
at  each  side  are  drawn  together  as 
one. 

The  entire  164  complete  patterns  in 
the  above  warp  layout  occupy  29^4 
inches  in  the  cloth. 

12   X   164 

=    67.2   ends   per   Inch. 

29.25 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

These  goods  may  be  woven  on  sin- 
gle box  cam  or  dobby  looms,  the  for- 
mer preferred.  Six  harnesses  would  be 
necessary  if  wire  heddles  were  used 
on  a  dobby  loom,  whereas  three  twine 
harnesses  would  be  sufficient.  The 
ends  are  drawn  in  straight  and  the 
selvages  drawn  the  same  as  the 
ground  yarns,  one  end  through  each 
heddle  and  three  ends  per  dent. 
FINISHING. 

There  is  practically  no  finish  given 
these  goods,  beyond  burling,  brush- 
ing and  making  up. 

Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  Bengal  stripes 
are  made  are  manufactured  in  mills  of 
the  first  division  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  method  of  mixing 
the  cotton  in  these  mills  would  prob- 
ably be  by  .hand.  In  the  up-to-date 
mills,  however,  openers  are  employed, 
especially  if  a  large  amount  of  cot- 
ton is  used.  The  method  generally 
used  in  such  a  case  is  to  have  several 
high-speed  openers  attached  in  a  row, 
the  cotton  being  delivered  on  an  end- 
less apron,  which  carries  it  to  a  blow- 
er. This  fan  blows  the  cotton  to  the 
picker  room  to  a  condenser,  which  in 
turn  deposits  the  open  cotton  upon  an 
endless  apron,  which  runs  over  the 
mixing  bins.  At  every  bin  there  is  a 
chute  which,  when  dropped,  allows  the 
cotton  to  be  dropped  into  the  bin. 

AN  IMPORTANT  POINT 
to  look  out  for,  when  this  method  is 
used,  is  the  danger  of  fire.  By  this 
method  the  cotton  is  thoroughly  open- 
ed and  may  be  used  as  fast  as  deliver- 
ed, as  it  is  in  a  loose,  fluffy,  dried- 
out  condition.  The  number  of  open- 
ers used  is  according  to  the  amount 
of  cotton  required  by  the  mill.  When 
this    method    is    employed,    the    good 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


703 


sliver  up  to  the  slubber  is  put  into 
the  center  hopper.  This  insures  a 
thorough  and  uniform  mixing  of  this 
waste,  which  is  always  the  "bugbear" 
of  cotton  mills.  The  stock  used  for 
Bengal  stripes  varies  according  to  the 
quality  of  cloth  desired,  but  generally 
a  %  inch  to  1  inch  staple  is  used.  An 
opener  and  two  processes  of  picking 
are  used. 

THE  HOPPER 

of  the  opener  should  be  well  filled  and 
connected  directly  with  the  breaker 
picker.  The  speed  of  this  beater,  which 
is  of  the  three-bladed,  rigid  type,  is  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  minute.  In  this 
breaker  picker  there  are  two  beaters 
and  two  sets  of  cages.  The  forward 
beater  is  a  two-bladed  beater  and 
the  speed  of  this  is  also  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
a  lap  at  the  front  end  is  40  pounds  or 
a  20-ounce  lap.  The  picker  tenders 
generally  allow  this  lap  to  be  made  as 
large  as  possible,  but  the  weight  per 
yard  remains  the  same.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  is 
equipped  with  either  a  two-blaaed,  rig- 
id or  a  pin  beater;  in  either  case  the 
speed  is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  is  46 
pounds  net  for  a  52-yard  lap,  or  about 
a  14%-ounce  lap.     This  lap  is  put  up 

AT  THE   CARD, 

the  draft  of  which  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder  should 
be  165  revolutions  per  minute;  licker- 
in,  375  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
flats  one  complete  revolution  eveir 
45  minutes  (110  fiats).  The  fillet  of 
the  cylinder  should  be  No.  33s  wire  or 
100s  and  for  the  doffer  and  top  fiats 
No.  34s  wire  or  110s.  The  cards  should 
be  set  and  ground  the  same  as  given 
for  indigo  prints.  The  cards  should 
be  stripped  three  times  a  day  of  10^^ 
hours.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  per 
yard  should  be  55  grains  and  the  pro- 
duction 900  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours.  This  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  six  ends  up  at 
both  the  breaker  and  finisher  draw- 
ing. The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  75 
grains  at  the  finisher.     The  speed  of 


the  front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  drawing  should  be  sized 
three  times  a  day.  For  this  class  of 
work  either  metallic  or  leather  cov- 
ered top  rolls  may  be  used,  but  in 
either  case  should  be  looked  after  to 
see  that  they  are  in  perfect  condition. 
Watch  the 

STOP-MOTIONS 

to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect  work- 
ing condition,  and  that  the  frame 
tenders  do  not  block  them  up  with 
cotton  to  keep  them  from  working. 
The  drawing  sliver  is  now  put  up  to 
the  slubber,  where  it  is  made  into  .40 
hank  roving.  Be  careful  to  set  the 
bottom  steel  rolls  properly,  so  as  to 
obtain  the  best  results,  and  watch  the 
twist  and  tension.  The  slubber  roving 
is  made  into  1  hank  for  warp  and  1.20 
hank  for  filling  at  the  first  interme- 
diate and  at  the  second  or  (in  this 
case)  the  five  frame  is  made  into  2.25 
hank  for  the  warp  and  3.50  for  the 
filling  yarn.  These  rovings  are  then 
taken  to  the  spinning  room  and  at  the 
warp  frame  "made  into  9s  on  a  frame 
having  a  314-inch  gauge,  2%-inch  di- 
ameter ring  and  a  7-inch  traverse. 
This  is  then  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  a  slasher.  The  roving  for 
filling  is  spun  into  16s  on  a  filling 
frame  having  a  6%  to  7-inch  traverse, 
1%-inch  diameter  ring  and  a  2% -inch 
gauge.    This  yam  is  then  conditioned. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLUE. 
Eight  per   cent   immedial   indogene 
GCL.  cone;    10  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
dium; 4  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  NRT.; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BROWN. 

Five  per  cent  immedial  outch  O.;  5 
per  cent  immedial  brown  BR.;  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

OLIVE. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  olive  B.;    5 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  25  per  cent 
salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 


704 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


DARK  GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  dark  green 
B.;    10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;    30 
per  cent  salt;  4  per  cent  soda  ash. 
MAROON. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B.; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 


TURKEY  RED 

Turkey  red  is  a  name  given  to  fab- 
rics that  have  been  subjected  to  the 
Turkey  red  dyeing  process.  They  are 
usually  cloths  constructed  with  the 
plain  or  small  twill  weaves,  and  are 
found  in  various  widths.  They  are 
used  for  signal  flags,  dress  goods  and 
for  many  other  purposes  where  a 
bright  red  color  that  will  withstand 
severe  tests  of  light,  wear  and  weath- 
er is  required.  The  analysis  of  two 
characteristic  fabrics  shows  the  fol- 
lowing construction  data: 

Sample  1.  Plain  weave;  64  ends  and 
52  picks  per  inch;  30s  yarn  in  both 
warp  and  filling.  A  fabric  of  this  type 
could  be  woven  on  either  automatic  or 
ordinary  plain  cloth  looms. 

Sample  2.  Three  end  twill  weave, 
for  ground;  66  ends  and  72  picks  per 
inch;  36s  warp  for  the  ground  of  the 
cloth,  and  2-36s  warp  for  the  selvages; 
24s  filling.  The  ground  of  this 
sample  is  drawn  one  end  in  each  hed- 

nn* 
rma 
maa 

Fig.   1. 

nnaa 

mmaa 
umua 

Fig.   2. 

die  and  three  ends  in  each  dent.  The 
selvages  weave  two  ply  ends  as  one, 
2  picks  in  each  shed  (Fig.  2),  with 
catch  thread  on  the  outside,  and  are 
reeded  2  ends  per  dent.  The  two  ply 
ends,  as  one,  represent  4  single 
strands  of  yarn  in  each  dent.  There 
are  16  ply  yarns  in  each  selvage. 

It  would  be  advisable  to  weave  a 
fabric  of  this  character  on  a  dobby,  in 
preference  to  a  cam  loom,  because  of 
the  difference  in  weave  of  selvages 
and  ground.  The  former  being  on  4 
and  the  latter  on  3  picks  necessitates 


12  picks  before  they  repeat  together. 
Six  harnesses  would  be  required  for 
the  ground  ends,  and  3  for  the  sel- 
vage ends,  one  of  which  would  be  for 
the  catch  thread. 

CALCULATIONS. 

In  analyzing  the  twill  fabric,  a  piece 
2^  X  4  inches  was  found  to  weigh 
12  grains,  i.  e.,  10  square  inches  weigh 
12  grains. 

12  divided  by  10  equals  1.2  grains 
per  square  inch. 

The  average  number  of  the  yarn  was 
found  as  follows:  66  (ends)  plus  72 
(picks)  equals  138  inches,  which  weigh 
1.2  grains.  138  divided  by  1.2  equals 
115  inches  per  grain.  115  plus  10  per 
cent  (for  take  up)  equals'  126  inches 
of  yarn  per  grain.  126  times  .2314 
equals  29.1,  say  29,  average  number. 

By  comparing  the  relative  sizes  of 
the  yarns,  warp  and  filling,  by  cross- 
ing and  twisting  them,  it  was  found 
that  18  ends  of  warp  were  of  the  same 
diameter  as  12  picks  of  filling. 

Assuming  the  warp  counts  to  be  36s, 
the  filling  counts  were  found  as 
follows: 

138  (sum  of  sley  and  pick)  divided 
by  29    (average  number)    equals   4.76. 

66  (sley  or  ends  per  inch)  divided 
by  36  (warp  number)  equals  1.83; 
total  2.93. 

72  (picks)  divided  by  2.93  equals 
24.5,  say  24,  filling  required. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  the  yarns  of  which 
Turkey  red  is  made  vary  according  to 
the  quality  desired.  The  stock  being 
used  also  varies  in  length  of  staple  and 
grade.  In  one  of  the  samples  tak- 
en for  this  article  the  warp  yarn  is 
l-36s  and  the  filling  yarn  is  l-24s.  For 
these  yarns  and  quality  of  cloth  the 
staple  of  the  cotton  used  would  be 
1%  of  an  inch  in  length  and  of  a  good 
grade. 

THE  MACHINERY  USED 
would  be  found  in  the  second  division 
of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 

All  bales  of  cotton  should  be  graded 
and  sampled  before  being  put  into  the 
mixing  and  all  those  not  up  to  grade 
and  length  of  staple  should  be  placed 
one  side  and  not  used  in  the  mixing. 
If  the  mill  is  up-to-date  or  of  a  recent 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


705 


construction  the  method  of  mixing 
would  be  as  described  in  the  last  arti- 
cle. In  older  mills  the  cotton  would 
be  mixed  by  hand.  If  the  latter  meth- 
od is  employed,  the  mixing  should  be 
made  from  as  many  bales  as  possible 
and  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  pos- 
sible to  dry  out. 

PERIODS  OF  MIXLXG, 
of  course,  vary  according  to  the  output 
of  the  mill  in  which  the  cloth  is  made. 
If  space  is  plenty,  which  is  not  gen- 
erally the  case,  a  double  mixing  should 
be  made,  one  mixing  being  used  while 
the  'other  is  drying  out,  thus  insuring 
that  green  cotton  is  not  used.  The  cot- 
ton is  then  put  through  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking.  The  hop- 
per of  the  opener  should  always  be 
kept  at  least  half  full  of  cotton  and 
the  lifting  apron  should  work  easily 
and  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that 
the  slats  are  all  whole.  The  pin  beat- 
er should  be  adjusted  so  as  to  feed 
the  proper  amount  of  cotton  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  is  gener- 
ally of  a  combination  type,  having  two 
sets  of  beaters  and  two  sets  of  cages. 
The  breaker  beater  speed  is  about  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  tninute,  and  is  of  a 
three-bladed,  rigid  type.  The  forward 
beater  is  generally  of  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type,  and  its  speed  is  1,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute.    The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  this  picker  is  40  pounds,  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
.4  into  1.  This  machine  has  a  single 
beater  of  two  blades,  rigid  type,  the 
speed  of  which  is  1,425  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  lap  at  this  ma- 
chine is  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap. 
These  are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker 
aiid  doubled  4  into  1.  The  weight  of 
a  lap  at  the  head  end  of  this  frame  is 
48  pounds  or  a  14%-ounce  lap.  In  the 
picker  room  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  drafts  are  properly  reg- 
ulated and  that  the  eveners  are  work- 
ing properly,  and  also  that  the  cotton 
is  thrown  upon  the  top  cage  to  help 
prevent  splitting  laps.  Every  lap 
should  he  weighed  and  a  variation  of 
one-half  pound  either  side  of  stand- 
ard weight  is  allowed.  All  laps  vary- 
ing Over  or  under  this  allowance 
should  be  put  back  and  run  over  again. 


Roving  waste  is  mixed  in  the  good 
cotton  in  many  ways,  one  of  which  has 
been  previously  given.  The  laps  are 
then  put  up  at  the  card.  At  this  ma- 
chine tue  speed  of  the  licker-in  should 
be  375  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
flats  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  45  minutes.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  No.  33  or  100s  for 
cylinder  and  No.  35  or  120s  for  the 
doffer  and  top  flats. 

THE  CARD  SETTINGS 
should  be  the  same  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article  on  indigo  prints.  Strip 
three  times  a  day  for  a  10% -hour  day 
and  grind  at  least  once  a  month.  Keep 
the  flats  free  from  fly  and  all  quick 
motions  well  oiled,  especially  the  main 
cylinder  bearings,  which,  if  not  proper- 
ly attended  to,  beat  up  and  cause  blis- 
tering. The  draft  of  this  card  should 
be  about  100;  the  weight  of  the  sliver 
is  60  grains  per  yard  and  the  produc- 
tion is  700  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours.  Watch  the  wire  fillet  to  keep 
it  sharp.  For  this  sample  we  will  con- 
sider the  yarns  to  be  combed.  When 
this  is  the  case,  the  sliver  is  taken 
from  the  card  and  put  through  the 
sliver  lap  machine,  ribbon  lap  machine 
and  the  comber,  or  it  may  be  taken 
from  the  card  and  put  through  a  proc- 
ess of  drawing,  sliver  lap  and  then  to 
the  comber.  We  will  consider  the 
former  method.  Here  again  a  great 
deal  depends  on  the  size  and  make  of 
comber  being  used.  For  this  article 
we  will  take  the  older  styles  of  six- 
head,  8%-inch  lap,  combers.  The 
weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  sliver 
lap  machine  (doublings  being  14  into 
1)  would  be  295  grains.  At  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  the  doublings  would  be  6 
into  1,  and  the  weight  of  lap  260  to 
275  grains  per  yard.  The  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  combers  and  doubled  6 
into  1.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  48 
grains  per  yard.  Sixteen  per  cent  of 
waste  is  taken  out  at  the  comber.  The 
comber  sliver  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  at  the 
finisher  is  70  grains  and  the  doublings 
6  into  1  at  each  process.  Size  four 
times  a  day  and  don't  skip  a  size. 
This  sliver  is  put  up  at  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .60  hank  roving.     For  the 


706 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


warp  yarn  this  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames;  at  the  first  in- 
termediate it  is  made  into  2.25  hank 
and  at  the  fine  into  7.50  hank.  This  is 
taken  to  the  ring  frame  and  spun  into 
36s  on  a  frame  with  a  2%-inch  gauge, 
1  9-16-inch  diameter  ring,  and  a  6-inch 
traverse,  the  spindle  speed  being  9,600 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  yarn  is 
then  taken  and  spooled,  warped  and 
slashed. 

The  slubber  roving  for  the  filling  is 
also  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames.  At  the  first  intermediate  it 
is  made  into  2  hank  and  at  the  sec- 
ond into  5  hank,  after  which  it  is  spun 
into  30s  filling  yarn  on  a  frame  with  a 
2%-inch  gauge,  1% -inch  diameter  ring, 
6-inch  traverse,  and  spindle  speed  of 
7,350  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn  is  then  takeli  and  conditioned. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

The  dyeing  of  Turkey  red  has  been 
handed  down  from  generation  to  gen- 
eration for  the  last  500  years,  and  pos- 
sibly long  before  that  time.  The  city 
of  Adrianople,  and  also  the  city  of 
Salonica,  were  formerly  famous  for 
this  celebrated  color.  It  is  not  so  an- 
cient as  indigo  blue,  because  the 
clothes  around  mummies  in  Egypt 
2,000  years  B.  C.  have  indigo  colors 
on  them.  The  original  Turkey  red 
was  a  process  of  long  duration.  Thir- 
ty days  were  often  consumed  before 
the  finished  cloth  or  yarn  was  pro- 
duced. 

The  cloth  was  oiled  in  olive  oil, 
dried,  and  hung  up  in  long  chambers 
for  some  days,  to  age  the  goods,  and 
fix  the  oil  in  the  fibre.  The  goods 
were  then  oiled  again,  and  aged,  the 
process  being  repeated  several  times. 

The  short  process  of  Turkey  red  is 
to  oil  with  a  solution  of  Turkey  red 
oil,  20  per  cent,  and  then  dry.  Oil 
again  and  dry,  and  allow  to  remain 
for  a  few  hours  in  that  state,  and  pass 
through  a  solution  of  acetate  of  alumi- 
na at  6  degrees  Tw.  Dry  in  hot  air 
and  pass  through  a  dunging  bath  of 
cow  dung  and  biftrsenate  of  soda. 
This  process  will  take  away  the  sur- 
plus mordant  from  the  cloth,  and  fix 
the  alumina  in  the  fibre.  The  cloth 
is  well  washed  in  water,  and  then 
dyed  with  about  15  per  cent  alizarine 


red  paste,  4  per  cent  bullock's  blood, 
11/2  per  cent  nutgalls,  and  enough 
acetate  of  lime  to  correct  the  water. 
The  goods  are  dyed  for  one  hour, 
and  well  rinsed,  dried  and  passed 
through  a  solution  of  Turkey  red  oil, 
about  5  per  cent,  dried,  and  steamed 
for  one  hour.  The  goods  are  then 
well  soaped  in  a  strong  bath  of  hot 
soap,  well  rinsed,  and  finished  as  re- 
quired. 


LAMP  WICKING 

Lamp  wicking  is  usually  constructed 
of  coarse,  low-grade  cotton  yarns. 
There  are  three  general  forms  or 
types:  braid  wicking,  flat  wicking  and 
round,  hose  or  tube  wicking. 

They  are  made  in  sizes  varying  from 
a  small  fraction  of  an  inch,  in  the 
braid  and  flat  types,  for  miners'  and 
similar  lamps,  to  several  inches  in 
width,  in  the  flat  and  round  types,  for 
large  oil  lamps  and  stoves. 

The  principal  objects  sought  to  be 
secured  in  these  goods  are  strength. 


SDHHD 

BEJHDD 
■DDDS 

Fig.    1. 


FBFTBFBfrBtSF 

■aBDBBDBDBaDB 
DDBfflDDiriBSDDGB 
BBBDaaBBDDBBB 
BDasaBDQEJGBaD 
i  A  A  A 

6  timed 

Fig.  2. 


DnBDDnBDDnBnDDBDDDBDDDBDnDBng 
■■■nBBBnBBBDBBBDBBBDBBBDBBByfe 
BaDDBDDDBOanBpDDBDDDBDCDBDDDB 
aaBBBaBBBDBBBaBBBUBBBOaBBQBBB 
^     i         1   AA    AA    AA/ 

Fig.  3. 

thickness       and       moisture-absorbing 
qualities. 

BRAID  WICKING. 

This  differs  from  a  solid  braid,  as  in 
braided  rope  and  clothes  lines,  in  hav- 
ing a  core  of  very  soft,  coarse  roving, 
around  which  have  been  braided  finer 
yarns  of  a  good  strength  and  quality. 
There  are  10  strands  of  roving  for  the 
core  and  32  ends  of  fine  2-ply  mercer- 
ized yarn  for  the  braided  covering. 
The  latter  imoarts  the  requisite 
strength  to  the  fabric,  while  the  other 
desirable  qualities  are  furnished  by  the 
roving.  This  wick  is  so  constructed 
that  the  core  could  be  withdrawn 
without  interfering  with  the  construc- 
tion of  the  covering.  There  are  about 
72  yards  per  pound. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


707 


There  are  three  methods  adopted  for 
making  heavy,  thick  fabrics:  First,  by 
means  of  coarse  yarns;  second,  by 
means  of  compound  structures  of 
cloth;  third,  by  combining  the  first  and 
second  methods. 

Flat  lamp  wicking  requires  an  extra 
la.ge  surtace,  one  deeper  ilian  can  oi- 
dinarily  be  obtained  by  using  coarse 
yarns  in  a  single  weave  structure.  It 
•  ri  usually  WON  en  with  coarse  warp 
yarns  and  comparatively  fine,  strong 
filling  yarns,  with  double  plain  weaves 
of  equal  structure  arranged  1  and  1 
in  both  warp  and  filling,  the  two  single 
fabrics  being  bcund  together  into  one 
compound  fabric  by  other  yarns, 
termed  ties  or  binders,  which  interlace 
with  both  with  more  or  less  frequency. 
Where  as  firm  a  structure  as  is  pos- 
sible is  wanted,  the  ties  are  arranged 
as  extras  to  work  the  single  plain 
weave,  as  shown  by  the  crosses  in  Fig. 
1.  This  entire  figure  is  the  base  weave 
upon  which  the  design  for  this  wick- 
ing has  been  constructed.  Ends  1  to  4, 
repeated,  would  form  a  tube  or  hose 
pipe  fabric,  the  picks  going  first  into 
one  cloth  and  then  the  other  on  alter- 
nate picks.  Solid  type  shows  the  face 
weave,  type  a  the  back  weave,  type  '•■ 
face  ends  raised  when  back  picks  are 
inserted.  Back  ends  are  depressed  on 
picks  1  and  3,  when  face  picks  are  in- 
serted. The  complete  weave  is  shown 
in  Fig.  2,  and  is  on  38  ends  and  4  picks. 
Letter  F  indicates  face  ends.  B  in- 
dicates back  ends.  T  indicates  ties. 
The  arrows  indicate  where  the  ends 
are  divided  by  the  reed,  eight  dents 
being  used. 

The  construction  data  of  this  wick- 
ing is  as  follows:  Warp,  2-ply  5s  cot- 
ton: filling,  2-ply  15s  cotton:  width,  % 
inch;  ends  in  wick,  38,  of  which  seven 
are  ties;  picks  per  inch,  ISVz-  The 
waT-p  contains  very  littlf^  twist  in  the 
single  strands  and  only  five  turns  per 
inch  in  the  ply  yarn.  There  are  no 
selvages  such  as  are  usually  made  on 
other  types  of  goods. 

ROUND,  HOSE  OR  TUBE  WICKING. 
This  wicking  has  been  made  with 
weave.  Fig.  3.  with  two  ends  workin? 
together  as  one.  An  examination  of 
this  will  show  that  it  is  constructed  on 
the  same  principle  as  the  first  four 
ends  of  Fig.    1,   th^  two   cloths   being 


tied  only  at  the  sides  where  the  filling 
changes  from  interlacing  with  one 
series  of  ends  to  the  other  series  every 
pick.  The  arrows  indicate  where  the 
ends  are  reeded.  The  two  outer  dents 
on  each  side  contain  only  four  ends 
each,  whereas  the  remainder  of  the 
warp  is  reeded  six  ends  (3  doubles) 
per  dent. 

The  construction  of  this  wicking  is 
as  I'oHows:  Vva;')),  2-ply  5s  cotton  .soft 
twisted;  filling,  3-ply  15s  cotton; 
width,  1%  inches;  ends  in  wick,  106  as 
53;  picks  per  inch,  28;  yards  per 
pound,  15.  The  warp  yarns  are  ar- 
ranged 52  ends  of  white  and  1  of  blue, 
repeated  once. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

For  braid  wicking  a  braiding  ma- 
chine is  required.  For  flat  and  round 
wicking,  narrow  width  cam  looms, 
varying  in  construction  according  to 
the  weight  and  w-idth  of  wicking  to  be 
woven,  are  used. 

F.or  the  narrow  wicking  an  ordinary 
tape  loom  may  be  used,  in  which  each 
wicking  has  its  separate  warp  or 
warps.  The  warps  for  wide  wicking 
are  usually  run  on  wide  beams,  and 
■he  yarn  divid'^d  in  tlip  loom.  In  order 
to  make  a  soft  wicking  on  these  the 
tying  ends  are  run  from  a  beam  as  in 
an  ordinary  loom.  The  other  yarns 
are  run  from  one  or  tw^o  separate 
beams,  and  are  regulated  by  an  at- 
tachment which  draws  them  forward 
in  a  positive  manner  in  order  to  avoid 
the  strain  usually  caused  when  the 
yarn  has  to  draw  the  beam  forward. 

Each  of  the  fabrics  under  considera- 
tion has  been  woven  from  one  beam. 
In  the  flat  wicking  the  plain  ends  work 
tighter  than  the  other  ends  on  account 
of  the  larger  number  of  interlacings. 
This  causes  them  to  sink  below  the 
plane  occupied  by  the  double  cloth 
ends  and  also  causes  the  latter  to  be 
and  appear  somewhat  loose. 
FINISHING. 

There  is  practically  no  finishing 
civpn  those  ernods.  as  they  are  simply 
cut  into  definite  lengths  and  packed, 
after  being  woven.  The  yarn  for  some 
of  the  wicking  is  bleached  or  dyed  be- 
fore being  woven.  Where  colored 
'p-nc;  a^p  used,  they  are  usually  ar- 
raiETPd  in  the  warp  to  make  a  striped 
fabric. 


706 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Manufacturers  of  wicking  generally 
buy  their  yarns  from  cotton  yarn 
mills  and  it  is  in  this  latter  class  of 
mills  that  coarse  and  fine  counts  of 
yarns  are  made.  Generally  speaking, 
.the  so-called  yarn  mills  do  not  belong 
to  any  of  the  divisions  of  mills  given 
in  a  previous  article,  but  are  rather 
in  a  class  or  division  by  themselves, 
being  ready  and  equipped  to  till  orders 
for  all  counts  of  yarn,  either  carded  or 
combed.  Of  course  there  are  yarn 
mills  making  a  specialty  of  fine  yarns, 
but,  generally  speaking,  this  class  of 
mills  tnake  yarn  for  the  knitting 
trade,  which  as  a  rule  does  not  call 
for  as  high  counts  of  yarn  as  a  fine 
goods  mill. 

In  this  class  of  mills  a  great  many 
MORE  CHANGES 
are  made  than  in  mills  making  cloth, 
some  of  the  latter  mills'  card  rooms 
running  from  one  year's  end  to  the 
next  without  a  change  in  the  hank 
roving  or  stock,  whereas  in  the  yarn 
mills  changes  are  made  daily.  This  is 
on  account  of  filling  the  orders  for 
small  knitting  plants,  of  which  there 
are  a  great  number  throughout  the 
country.  Generally  speaking,  more 
care  has  to  be  used  in  a  yarn  mill  than 
in  a  cloth  mill,  "both  on  account  of  the 
many  changes  and  also  on  account  of 
the  yarn  being  sold  and  not  woven  in 
the  same  mill,  where  the  smaller  de- 
fects may  be  covered.  Of  course,  in 
both  mills  the  yarn  should  run  as  even 
as  possible,  but  this  fault  should  be 
looked  after  particularly  in  yarn  mills. 
In  yarn  mills 

THE  TWIST 
of  the  yarn  is  less  than  in  cloth  mills, 
and  this  class  of  mills  is  generally 
equipped  with  mules  instead  of  spin- 
ning frames  to  obtain  this  result.  Par- 
ticular care  should  be  taken  in  yarn 
mills  to  see  that  no  "mix-ups"  occur 
in  any  part  of  the  card  room  on  ac- 
count of  the  carelessness  of  those 
changing  the  gears,  and  it  is  a  good 
idea  to  have  specially  prepared  forms 
to  be  filled  out  when  each  change  is 
made  at  the  slubbers,  fly  frames  and 
mules  or  spinning  frames.  After  these 
forms  are  made  out  by  the  one  mak- 
ing the  change,  they  should  be  handed 
in  and  checked  by  the  overseer. 


For  making  the  tube  wicking,  the 
counts  of  the  yam  are  as  follows:  2-ply 
5s  wari.  soft  twist  and  3 -ply  15s  regu- 
lar twist,  while  the  filling  or  center 
portion  or  core  is  made  up  of  2-ply 
1  hank  roving.  These  counts  of  yarn 
are  all  made  from  the  same 

STAPLE  AND  GRADE 
of  cotton,  generally  cotton  from  %  to  1 
inch  in  staple  of  a  good  grade  being 
used.  In  large  mills  an  openii  g  shed 
is  built  and  the  cotton  is  opened  and 
fed  to  the  opener  hoppers  or  feeders, 
several  being  placed  in  a  row  and 
from  here  blown  over  to  the  mill  prop- 
er, where  it  is  received  and  carried 
by  arrangements  of  endless  belts  to  its 
proper  bins.  When  the  cotton  is  thus 
opened  it  is  in  a  dry,  fiuffy  state  and 
may  be  used  at  once  and  does  not  have 
to  stand,  as  is  the  case  when  the  cot- 
ton is  mixed  by  the  hand  method, 
which  has  been  previously  described. 

The  cotton  is  put  through  a  feeder 
and  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
feeder  picker  should  always  be  kept 
filled  up  with  cotton,  so  that  the  lift- 
ing apron  will  always  be  filled  up. 
The  breaker  beater  is  equipped  with 
two  sets  of  cages  and  two  beaters.  The 
breaker  beater  has  three  arms  and 
blades,  and  its  speed  is  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute. 

THE  FRONT  BEATER 
has  two  blades  and  its  speed  is  also  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  minute,  but  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  cotton  does 
not  receive  as  much  ueating  as  it  does 
at  the  three-bladed  beater,  on  account 
of  having  one  less  blade.  The  weight 
of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  machine  is  16 
ounces.  On  the  breaker  picker  there 
is  no  evener  and  the  amount  of  cotton 
fed  is  regulated  by  the  distance  of  the. 
pin  or  stripping  beater  from  the  lifting 
apron.  The  laps  from  this  machine  are 
put  up  and  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker. 

This  picker  is  generally  equipped 
with  a  two-bladed  beater,  its  speed 
being  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  12  ounces.  This  picker  has  an 
evener,'  which  should  be  looked  after 
carefully  to  see  that  it  is  doing  its 
duty.  The  laps  from  this  picker  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker, 
and  doubled  4  into  1.    This  picker  may 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


709 


be  equipped  with  either  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  beater  or  a  pin  beater  which  has 
three  arms  equipped  with  pina.  li'  tiie 
latter  beater  is  used,  the  speed  for  this 
style  should  be  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  a  50-yard  lap 
should  be  46  pounds  or  a  14.7-ounce 
per  yard  lap. 

Every  lap  should  be  weighed  and  a 
variation  of  one-half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  allowed.  All  laps 
which  vary  more  than  this  should  be 
put  back  to  be  run  over  again.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  every  lap 
is  weighed,  and  if  laps  do  not  weigh 
within  the  limit,  the  evener  should  be 
adjusted  to  allow  the  next  lap  to  come 
within  this  weight  limit.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  card,  tha  draft  of 
which  should  not  exceed  100.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  should  be  one  revo- 
lution every  40  minutes  (110  flats) ; 
the  speed  of  the  licker-in  300  revolu- 
tions per  minute  and  the  doffer  about 
131/^  revolutions  per  minute.  The  gen- 
eral instruction  for  settings,  grinding 
and  stripping  given  previously  may  be 
followed.     The 

PRODUCTION  OF  A  CARD 
for  60  hours  for  this  class  of  work  is 
850  pounds  and  the  weight  of  the  sliv- 
er 65  grains  per  yard.  If  the  yarn  is 
combed,  it  passes  through  the  sliver 
lap  machine,  where  it  is  doubled  16  in- 
to 1  for  an  8%-inch  lap,  the  weight  per 
yard  being  420  grains.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and 
doubled  6  into  1.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  lap  at  this  machine  is  440 
grains  for  a  lO^/^-inch  lap.  The  rib- 
bon lap  machines  should  be  sized 
twice  a  day  and  a  variation  of  seven 
grains  per  yard  allowed  before  chang- 
ing; tne  draft  sear.  These  laps  are 
put  up  on  an  8-head  comber  and  dou- 
bled 8  into  1.  The  weight  of  a  yard 
of  sliver  at  the  delivery  end  of  this 
machine  should'  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard. 

THE  SAME  SETTINGS 
and  timing  for  this  machine  may  be 
used  as  have  been  given  previously  for 
a  6-head,  8%-inch  lap  comber  of  the 
Heilman  type  of  combers.  The  per- 
centage of  waste  taken  out  is  18.  This 
sliver  is  then  put  through  two  process- 
es of  drawing,  the  weight  at  the  fln- 
isher    drawing    being    70    grains    per 


yard.     If  the  cotton  Is    not    combed, 

three  processes  of  drawing  frames  are 
used,  the  weight  of  the  sliver  being 
the  same  as  when  combed.  Size  draw- 
ing four  times  a  day,  allowing  two 
grains  either  side  of  standard  weight. 
The  drawing  sliver  is  next  put  through 
the  si  bber  and  made  into  .40  hank 
roving.  From  here  it  is  passed  to  the 
first  intermediate  fly  frame  and  made 
into  1  hank  roving.  The  roving  for 
the  core  is  twisted  slightly  more  than 
that  used  for  the  warp  and  filling 
yarns,  generally  1  or  2  less  teeth  used 
on  the  twist  gear  being  sufficient.  The 
roving  for  the  core  is  then  twisted  into 
2-ply.  For  the  warp  yarn  the  yarn  is 
soft  spun  at  the  mule  into  5s  yarn  and 
then  twisted  into  2-ply  yarn.  For  the 
filling  yarn  the  first  intermediate  rov- 
ing requires  one  more  process  of  fly 
frames,  which  makes  it  into  3-hank 
roving.  This  is  taken  either  to  the 
mule  room  or  the  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  15s,  after  which  it  is  twisted, 
being  made  into  2-ply  15s  yarn. 

The  rules  and  instructions  for  the 
top  rolls  given  in  previous  articles  may 
also  be  applied  to  this  article. 


EOLIENNE 


Eolienne  is  the  name  applied  to  a 
fine  dress  fabric  characterized  by 
having  the  filling  of  a  much  coarser 
count  than  the  warp,  and  in  conse- 
quence producing  a  corded  effect 
across  the  breadth  of  the  goods. 
This  class  of  goods  is  made  up  of  a 
raw  silk  warp  and  either  cotton  or 
worsted  filling,  with  the  warp  ends 
per  inch  greatly  in  excess  of  picks  per 
inch. 

In  fabrics  constructed  on  this  basis 

THE  WARP  THREADS 

practically  cover  the  filling  and  pro- 
duce— ^with  a  silk  warp — a  very  glossy 
fabric,  another  feature  of  an  eolienne. 

This  fabric  finds  favor  with  the  fem- 
inine sex  practically  the  year  round, 
beinp:  very  popular  for  dressv  indoor 
occasions  in  the  cooler  periods  of  the 
year,  as  well  as  dressy  outdoor  wear 
for  summer. 

The  goods  are  made  up  in  the  gray, 
then  dyed  in  the  piece,  In  any  color 
that  the    trade    desires.     The   darker 


710 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


shades  find  most  favor  for  fall  and 
winter  use,  while  the  lighter  shades 
are  preferred  for  summer  wear.  Eo- 
lienne 

VARIES  IN  WIDTH. 
The  cotton  filling  fabric  finishes  at  27 
inches,  while  the  better  grade  worsted 
filling  finishes  at  40  inches  and  retails 
at  from  85  cents  to  $1.25  per  yard  and 
the  narrow  cotton  filling  fabric  retails 
at  from  25  to  45  cents  per  yard.  The 
variation  in  price  is  naiuiaiiy  iunu- 
enced  by  the  material  in  the  goods, 
that  is,  the  ends  and  picks  per  inch, 
consequently  we  find  a  comparatively 
wide  range  in  the  construction  of  these 
fabrics.  The  manufacturer,  however, 
must  bear  in  mind  that  the  fabrics 
should  be  perfectly  firm  in  order  to 
withstand  the  wear  of  a  dress  fabric. 

PLAIN  WOVEN  FABRICS 
lend  themselves  more  readily  to  a  va- 
riation in  texture  with  a  given  count 
of  yarns  than  does  any  other  method 
of  iatei  lacing  Wc-rp  and  filling  threads, 
this  being  due  to  plain  woven  fabrics 
having  more  intersections  to  the  repeat 
of  the  weave  than  any  other  weave. 

In  varying  the  texture,  we  must  bear 
in  mind  the  nature  of  the  material  to 
be  used,  as  certain  kinds  of  yarns  re- 
quire le3S  ends  per  inch  than  others  of 
a  given  count  to  produce  a  firm  fab- 
ric. In  the  construction  of  an  eolienne 
which  is  made  up  of  a  silk  warp,  silk, 
being  the  smoothest  of  textile  fibres, 
would  require  more  threads  per  inch 
than  a  fabric  composed  of  woolen 
fibres,  as  the  silk  threads  will  not  cling 
to  one  another  or  full  up  in  the  finish- 
ing as  would  a  fabric  composed  of 
woolen  fibres;  consequently  silk  warp 
fabrics  usually  have  a  very  high  warp 
texture. 

ANALYSIS. 

Cotton  filling  fabrics:  Width  of 
warp  in  reed,  30  inches;  width  of  fab- 
ric finished,  28  inches;  ends  per  inch 
in  reed,  90;  ends  per  inch,  finished,  96. 

Reed,  45  x  2. 

Silk  wa^D,  21-238  denier  silk:  cotton 
filling,  2-50s  combed  cotton;   58  picks. 

WORSTED  FILLING  EOLIENNE. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  44  inches; 
width  of  fabric,  finished,  40  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  150;  ends  per 
inch,  finished,  166. 


Reed,  50x3. 

Silk  warp,  2l-23s  denier  silk;  total 
number  of  ends  in  warp,  6,600;  40  ends 
additional  each  side  or  selvage,  80; 
total,  6,680  ends. 

Worsted  filling,  l-50s  French  spun; 
picks  per  inch,  64. 

These  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  any 
light,  smooth  running  roller  or  dobby 
loom.  The  warp  is  drawn  straight  on 
eight  harnesses  through  French  string 
heddles.  The  speed  of  the  loom  may 
with  advantage  run  from  130  to  140 
picks  per  minute. 

FINISHING. 

Eolienne  requires  little  in  this  re- 
spect. After  che  goods  reacn  the  dye- 
house,  they  are  boiled  off,  then  dyed  as 
desired,  run  through  the  rotary  press 
and  made  up  into  laps  or  rolls  of  about 
40-yard  pieces.  Then  they  are  ready 
for  the  commission  house. 

When  eoliennes  are  made  with  dyed 
yarns  the  finishing  process  as  noted  is 
rather  simple,  but  when  raw  silk  and 
grey  cotton  yarns  are  used  more  nu- 
merous processes  are  necessary.  The 
fabric  has  to  be  boiled  out  in  order  to 
take  the  gum  from  the  silk,  it  has  to 
be  bleached,  and  handled  in  various 
methods  to  produce  even  results  and 
then  has  to  be  dyed  or  printed,  as  the 
case  may  be.  Sometimes  such  fabrics 
are  dyed  by  a  cross-dyeing  process. 
wherein  the  silk  will  be  one  color  and 
the  cotton  an  entirely  different  color. 
In  other  instances  the  silk  will  remain 
white  with  the  cotton  dyed  the  color 
desired.  Possibly  there  has  been  more 
improvement  made  during  the  past 
few  years  in  the  dyeing  and  finishing 
of  these  silk  and  cotton  mixture  fab- 
rics than  in  any  other  section  of  the 
market. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  eolienne  are  made  in 
mills  of  the  third  division  as  given  in 
a  previous  article.  The  count  of  yam 
taken  for  an  example  of  this  class  of 
goods  is  2-50s  cotton  filling,  the  warp 
yarns  being  made  of  raw  silk.  In  this 
article  we  will  give  the  foundation  for 
making  this  count  of  yarn  for  this 
class  of  goods.  While  the  count  )f 
yarn  is  not  what  would  be  called  a  fine 
one,  still  the  general  construction  of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


711 


the  goods  calls  for  a  fairly  good 
length  cf  staple  of  a  good  grade  of  cot- 
ton, sometimes  the  yarns  being  mer- 
cerized and  gassed.  The  sample  calls 
for  a  cotton  of  good  grade  of  l^i-inch 
staple.  This  cotton  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  picking,  the  speed  of  the 
beaters  being  1,500  and  1,250  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  respectively,  for  the 
beater  and  finisher.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  finisher  should  be  ZTYz 
pounds,  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The  card 
should  be  equipped  with  35s  wire  fillet 
for  the  cylinder  and  37s  doffer  and  flats. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  ehould  not 
exceed  300  revolutions  per  minute;  the 
speed  of  the  flats,  one  complete  revolu- 
tion every  40  minutes,  and  about  9^ 
per  cent  of  dirt,  strip,  etc.,  taken  out. 
Strip  three  times  a  day  and  grind  as 
before  stated. 

SETTINGS 

should  be  close.  '  Special  attention 
should  be  paid  to  the  licker-in,  both 
as  regards  its  speed  and  also  as  to  its 
setting.  The  feed  plate  should  be  set 
far  enough  away  not  to  break  the 
staple  and  not  so  far  as  to  allow 
the  licker-in  to  continuously  draw 
bunches  into  the  cylinder.  The 
draft  should  be  about  110  and  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  55  grains  per  yard. 
The  production  should  not  exceed  525 
pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cotton  sliver  is  next  put  through  a 
sliver  lap  machine,  the  doublings  for 
an  8% -inch  lap  being  16  into  1,  the 
weight  being  400  grains  per  yard. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into  1,  and 
made  into  a  lap  on  a  lOV^-inch  spool. 
The  weight  of  this  lap  should  be  about 
420  grains.  These  are  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  8  into  1.  For  the 
Heilman  machine  the  end  cam  should 
be  set  as  follows:  with  the  80-tooth 
gear  out  of  mesh,  set  roller  on  pawl 
arm  in  heel  of  large  cam,  turn  index 
gear  to  5^/^  and  slide  80-tooth  gear  into 
tnesh  and  bolt.  Set  detaching  rolls  to 
fluted  segment  with  21  gauge.  Set  nip- 
pers to  open  at  3V^  index  gear  and 
close  at  914.  Set  lifters  down  at  6% 
and  up  at  8%  to  9;  top  combs  down  at 
5;  detaching  rolls  beginning  to  move  at 
6  and  feed  roll  at  4.  or  according  to 
amount  of  waste  to  be  taken  out.  Set 
cushion  plate  to  half  lap  with  an  18 


gauge  and  top  combs  to  fluted  segment 

with  a  21  gauge.  Use  a  15-lG  inch  stock 
gauge.  Use  a  30-degree  angle  01.  nipper 
knife.  For  this  stock  take  out  18  to  20 
per  cent  waste.  The  weight  of  the  sliv- 
er delivered  is  00  grains  per  yard. 
Speed  of  comber  is  90  nips  per  minute. 
The  sliver  is  next  put  through 

TWO  PROCESSES 

of  drawing  frames.  For  this  class  of 
goods  use  a  front  roller  speed  of  350 
and  have  leather  top  rolls  well  var- 
nished and  see  that  all  stop-motions 
work  properly. 

Weight  of  sliver  at  finisher  drawing 
frame  is  70  grains  per  yard.  At  the 
slubber  make  .55  hank  roving  and  use 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  being  1.25  at  first;  4  at 
second,  and  10 1/^  at  fine  frame.  Spin 
the  roving  into  50s,  on  a  ring  frame, 
with  a  2% -inch  spindle  gauge,  1^/4 - 
inch  diamond  ring  and  a  5 -inch  trav- 
erse. If  mercerized  yarn  is  wanted, 
spin  with  a  soft  twist,  otherwise  use 
the  regular  cloth  twist,  which  for  this 
yarn  would  be  as  follows:  twist  per 
inch,  22.98;  revolutions  per  minute  of 
front  roller,  100  plus;  revolutions  per 
minute  of  spindle,  7,250.  After  which 
the  yarn  goes  through  the  usual  proc- 
esses to  be  twisted  into  2-ply  50s. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

PINK. 
One-quarter  per  cent  Erika  pink  G. ; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  SK.  blue; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  green  G.;    ^2 
vev  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B.;  %  per 
cent  diamine  brown  B. ;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
HELIOTROPE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  heliotrope;   1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  indigo  B. ; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  5  per  cent 
soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 


712 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


MYRTLE. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  deep  green 
B.;  8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  5  per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

FAvVN  BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;   % 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B. ;  %  per 
cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

SEAL  BROWN. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  brown  B.;   1 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B. ;  1  per 
cent  diamine  catechine  B.;  Yz  per  cent 
sal  Loda;  30  per  cent  salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  NN.; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  of  sodium;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;    5  per  cent  soda 
ash. 

SAGE  GREEN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  green  G.; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  salt. 
PEARL. 

One- sixteenth  per  cent  diamine 
dark  blue  G.;  1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamineral  black  B. ;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 


HANDKERCHIEFS 

Cotton  handkerchiefs  are  constructed 
in  various  ways.  Some  are  made  from 
ordinary  plain  cotton  cloth  cut  up  and 
either  hemmed,  embroidered  (usually 
with  initials)  or  ornamented  with  Bat- 
tenburg  or  other  forms  of  lace.  Others 
are  what  may  be  termed  "made  in  the 
loom,"  and  are  of  such  types  as  hem- 
stitched, in  which  a  leno  weave  is  used 
for  the  four  borders  to  make  a 
perforated  effect,  and  corded  handker- 
chiefs, in  which  corded  effects  are 
made  for  both  the  side  and  cross  bor- 
ders. 

They  vary  in  size,  weight  and  qual- 
ity from  the  utilitarian  red  bandanna 
to  the  ladies'  dainty  ornamental  lace 
article. 

In  a  characteristic  handkerchief  of 
the  cord  type,  the  layout  of  the  entire 
warp,  including  the  drawing-in  draft, 
is  as  follows: 


Ends. 

Harness 

. 

Denta. 

Selvage 

32  as  16 

1 

2 

8 

32 

3 

6 

6 

16 

10  as  2 
6 

8 

3 

3 

5 

6 

S 

10  as  2 

8 

2 

6 

5 

3 

4  ■ 

S 

10  as  2 

8 

i 

14 

3 

5 

6 

7 

Border 

4  0  as  8 

8 

8 

14 

5 

3 

4 

7 

10  as  2 

8 

2 

6 

3 

5 

6 

3 

10  as  2 

8 

2 

6 

5 

3 

4 

3 

10  as  2 

8 

2 

Body    lOSO 

3 

5 

6 

640 

152 

Draw 

border 

46 

56 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Skip 

2S 
1 

56 

3 

4 

5 

6 

28 

152 

Draw  boi 

der 

46 

1080 

D 

"aw 

body 

540 

152 

Draw 

border 

46 

32 

3 

4 

5 

6 

16 

Selvage 

32  as  16 

1 

2 

8 

300S  ends 

1369 

From  the  above  layout  it  will  be 
seen  that  two  handkerchiefs  are  woven 
in  the  loom  at  the  same  time,  side  by 
side,  one  empty  dent  separating  them, 
and  that  one  beam  only  has  been  used. 
Each  warp  cord  border  consists  of  100 
ends   working  as  20. 

THE  SAME  EFFECT 

could  be  obtained  by  using  a  coarser 
yarn,  but  the  prcbabilities  are  that  if 
this  was  done  it  would  become  neces- 
sary to  use  twQ  beams.  Twenty-eight 
dents  have  been  occupied  between  the 
cords  and  center  empty  dent  to  allow 
ample  width  for  turning  the  edges  un- 
der for  hemming  purposes. 

The  construction  data  of  this  hand- 
kerchief are  as  follows:  Warp  counts, 
32s;  filling  counts,  40s;  ends  per  inch, 
72  in  plain  part,  79  average;  picks  per 
inch,  70  in  plain  part,  77  average; 
ends  in  hmdkerchief,  1.504:  picks  in 
handkerchief,  1,454;  width  in  loom,  40 
inches;  width  in  gray,  38  inches; 
weight,  4.5  yards  per  pound. 

One  of  the  principal  points  to  consid- 
er in  handkerchief  weaving  is  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  chain  draft  for  the 
filling  pattern  and  loom  mechanism  so 
that  there  will  not  be  any  more  bars 
of  pattern  chain  used  than  Is  neces- 
sary. 

THE  FILLING  PATTERN 

of  the  handkerchief  under  considera- 
tion contains  1.454  picks.  On  an  ordi- 
nary dobby  head  this  would  require 
727  bars  Qf  double  index,  or  1,454  bars 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


713 


of  single  index  cliain.  To  avoid  this 
excessive  amount  of  chain  there  are 
several  devices  or  loom  attachments 
now  on  the  market,  comprising  double 
or  more  cylinder  repeater,  multiplier, 
or  handkerchief  motions. 

Most  of  these  require  separate  chain 
bars  for  the  two  borders  and  a  certain 
number  of  bars  for  the  plain,  varying 
according  to  the  type  of  motion  used. 

Fig.  1  shows  the  chain  draft  t'.at  has 
been  used  to  produce  the  handkerchief 


The  handkerchief  was  woven  In  a 
single  box  dobby  loom  from  one  beam. 
rt~might  at  first  thought  appear  to  be 
an  advantage  to  weave  cross  borders 
of  this  type  with  coarse  filling  in  a 
2x1  box  loom,  using  one  pick  of  coarse 
instead  of  five  picks  of  fine  filling,  but 
the  lowor  speed  at  which  it  is  neces- 
sary to  run  box  looms  and  the  more 
attention  they  require  from  weaver 
and  loom  fixer  lessen  this  seeming  ad- 
vantage. Single  box  cam  looms,  with 


Repeater 
motion.* 


DnaoBCB 

oaicfcB 
aaaalui 
□■aBOBa 
oaaoBCB 

gaaaoBa 
aBOBDl 

caaBDBd 
oaaanao 
oanaaaa 
□aaaaaa 
oBDaaaa 
onaDBna 
oaaGBaa 
Qaaaaaa 
oaacaaa 
acacaca 
Gaaacaa 
ananaca 
Ganacaa 

Baaaoaa 
aGaGBD 
oaoaaaa 
DaDBcaa 
DGBCaca 
DGaDBoa 

DGaGBGa 
OGBGaGB 

DGBGaal 

DBGBCBn 

aGBGBci 

□BGBGBa 
DBGBGBa 
GBGBGia 

8  BGBGBa 
aGBGaa 

gGBGBCa 
GBOaGB 

Dnanaaa 
aGBCBca 
acacaca 

DBGBCBG 
DCBCBCB 

DBCBcaa 
DoaaacB 


Stop 
pegs 


D  1-  Plain  bar  for  body  and  plain  In  border. 

O  '^ 

■ 

5 

D 
D 

n 

■  L  Repeat  =  28  picks  =  14  bars. 


=  10  picks  =    5  bars. 


g  J.6  times  =  12  picks  =    6  bars. 

51 


D  1  6  times  —  12  picks  =:    6  bars. 


Repeat  =  28  picks  =  H  bars 


85  bars   for   cross  border. 
I    bar    for    plain 


Total.  86    bars    for    handkerchief 


Fig..  1. 


referred  to,  with  the  layout  shown;  86 
double-Index  bars  have  been  used  for 
each  handkerchief,  one  for  the  plain  in 
center  and  borders,  and  85  for  the  cord 
cross  borders,  with  a  repeat  motion 
that  is  not  on  the  market.  The  sel- 
vages have  been  woven  plain.  The 
harnesses  for  these  have  not  been  In- 
dicated on  the  chain  draft,  because 
they  are  worked  in  a  positive  manner 
by  the  lifter  knives. 


•Repeater  motion    refers   only    to    left-hand 
vertical    series   of   squares. 


handkerchief  motions  attached,  in 
which  sliding  cams  work  the  plain 
weave  or  remain  in  an  open-shed  posi- 
tion for  a  number  of  picks  as  required, 
are  sometimes  used.  These  admit  of  a 
much  greater  speed  and  steadier  mo- 
tion than  dobby  looms. 
FINISHING. 
Cord  handkerchiefs  are  usually 
b'e?ched.  cut,  hemmed,  folded,  pressed 
and  made  up  as  required.  Plain  cloth 
handkerchiefs  are  similarly  treated  or 
are  printed,  usually  red  and  white  or 


714 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


blue    and     white,     instead    of    being 
bleached. 


Carding  and   Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  compose  handker- 
chiefs are  made  in  mills  of  the  sec- 
ond and  third  divisions,  as  given  in  a 
previous  article.  Generally  speaking, 
handkerchief  yarns  are  combed,  even 
the  coarser  yarns  for  the  poorer  qual- 
ity of  handkerchiefs.  The  handker- 
chief taken  for  a  sample  is  made  up 
of  32s  warp  yarns  and  40s  filling 
yarns,  and  it  is  often  found  that  a 
different  count  of  yarn  is  used  in  the 
cords. 

For  the  sample  under  description,  a 
good  quality  of  American  cotton  of 
about  1%  staple  \\ould  be  used.  This 
would  be  mixed  as  has  been  before 
described, 

MACHINE  MIXING 
being  used  if  possible,  as  it  leaves 
the  cotton  in  a  more  desirable  condi- 
tion. An  opener  and  three  processes 
of  picking  are  used,  although  in 
some  fine  cloth  mills  only  two  process- 
es of  picking  are  used,  and  excellent 
results  obtained.  Some  overseers  con- 
sider t'lat  an  intermediate  picker  is 
not  necessary,  and,  in  fact,  claim  that 
instead  of  benefiting  the  cotton,  it  is 
a  detriment,  as  it  puts  neps  into  the 
cotton.  While  this  may  be  true,  good 
results  are  obtained  by  either  process, 
and  one  has  to  be  governed  by  cir- 
cumstances as  he  finds  them,  as  it 
very  often  happens  in  a  cotton  mill 
that  no  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  giv- 
en, the  object  being  to  get  a  good, 
clean,  even  yarn  with  strength,  and  on 
the  mark  as  to  count,  and  also  to  get 
as  much  as  possible  as  cheap  as  pos- 
sible. At  "the  feeder  have  it  feeding 
as  even  as  possible  and  remember 
that  on  the  pin  roller 

DEPENDS  THE  EVENNESS 
o^  the  .ap  at  the  breaker.  The  break- 
er is  equipped  with  two  sets  of  cages 
and  beaters,  the  breaker  beater  hav- 
ing three  blades,  and  making  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
front  beater  has  two  blades,  and  al- 
so makes  1,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the 
cotton  passing  under  the  three-bladed 


beater  receives  one-third  more  beat- 
ing than  when  passing  under  the  for- 
ward beater  of  the  same  machine.  A 
full  lap  should  weigh  40  pounds,  or 
a  16- ounce  lap.  If  three  processes  of 
pickers  are  used,  these  laps  are  dou- 
bled 4  into  1  at  the  intermediate 
picker.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at 
this  machine  should  be  38  pounds,  or 
a  14-ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher  pick- 
er the  doublings  are  also  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  a  beater  of  this  picker  is 
1,425,  if  equipped  with  a  pin  beater, 
and  1,450  if  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type  Is 
used.  The  total 

WEIGHT 
of  a  lap  is  37^^  pounds  for  a  40-yard 
lap,  or  a  15-ounce  lap.  All  the  laps 
as  they  are  taken  off  the  picker  should 
be  weighed,  a  variation  of  one-half 
a  pound  either  side  of  the  standard 
weight  being  allowed.  The  roving 
waste  (cut)  should  be  mixed  as  be- 
fore stated,  or  better  still  if  it  is  run 
through  a  special  roving  machine, 
and  then  put  back  into  the  mixing. 
In  this  manner  scarcely  any  "lickin" 
laps  are  made,  granted,  of  course,  that 
too  much  cut  waste  is  not  being  made, 
or  too  little  cotton  being  used.  Cut- 
roving  waste  and  also  card,  sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap,  comber  and  drawing 
frame  good  waste  is  a  serious  prob- 
lem, and  it  should  not  be  alloA^ed  to 
accumulate,  but  should  be  used  up  as 
fast   as   made.    The   laps   are   put   up 

AT  THE  CARD. 
This  card  is,  generally  speaking,  the 
so-called  English  card.  It  should  have 
as  lirge  a  doffer  as  possible,  either  a 
26  or  27  inch  diameter  being  used  by 
mill  men  nowadays.  The  size  of  w'.re 
fillet  used  should  be  that  used  for 
making  medium  counts  of  yarn,  i.  e., 
No.  34s  or  110s  for  cylinder,  and  No. 
36s  or  130s  for  doffer  and  flats.  The 
draft  of  the  card  should  not  be  less 
than  110.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
should  be  about  400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  every  40  minutes. 
Strip,  grind  and  set  as  given  in  pre- 
vious articles.  The  production  of  the 
card  for  a  week  of  60  hours  should  be 
600  pounds.  If  this  yarn  is  to  be 
combed,  it  is  generally  run  through 
the    sliver   lap   machine,   where   it   Is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


715 


doubled  14  into  1,  and  weighs  250 
grains  per  yard  for  an  8%-inch  lap, 
after  which  it  io  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into  1,  the 
weight  of  a  yaid  of  lap  at  the  front 
being  275  grains.  These  laps  should 
be 

SIZED  TWICE  A  DAY, 

a  variation  of  5  grains  per  yard 
either  side  of  the  standard  weight  be- 
ing allowed  before  changing.  At  the 
con  ber  use  tlie  same  settings,  ti  iiings 
and  ga\:ges  as  given  In  the  last  arti- 
cle. The  combed  sliver  should  weight 
45  grains  for  a  6-head  comber,  and 
proportionately  more  for  an  8-head 
comber.  For  these  goods  about  15  per 
cent  of  waste  is  taken  out.  Watch  the 
needles  on  the  half  laps  and  top 
combs,  for  remember  that  if  these  are 
broken  or  bent,  the  cotton  is  not  re- 
ceiving its  proper  combing,  and  as  this 
is  an  extra  item  in  the  cost,  these  lit- 
tle points  should  be  looked  after.  An- 
other part  of  the  comber  to  watch  is 
the  table,  to  keep  it  free  from  dirt  and 
oil,  and  well  polished  and  smooth  at 
all  times.  This  is  because  after  leav- 
ing the  comber  the  cotton  receives  no 
more  cleaning,  so  that  dirt  even  in 
the  sliver  is  apt  to  stay  there. 

PERCENTAGES  OF  THE  COMBER 

should  be  taken  frequently  and  all 
comber  percentages  kept  as  even  as 
possible,  for  if  there  is  much  varia- 
tion it  will  show  up  and  make  uneven 
yarn.  Another  point  to  watch  is  the 
leather  top  rolls.  These  should  be 
kept  well  varnished,  with  a  varnish 
which  will  last  at  least  three  weeks, 
although  the  detaching  rolls  should  be 
given  one  coat  of  varnish  every  week. 
Varnish  should  be  applied  with  a 
brush.  At  the  drawing  frame,  the 
comber  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes,  the  doublings  being  8  into 
1  at  the  breaker,  and  6  into  1  at  the 
firiisher.  Thp  we'ght  per  vard  at  the 
finisher  drawing  frame  is  70  grains  per 
yard.    At  this  machine 

THE  MAIN  POINTS 
to  watch  are  the  knock-off  motions, 
roller  settings  and  top  rolls.  For 
drawing  frame  top  leather  rolls  a 
varnish  should  be  used  which  is 
smoother  and  glossier  than  that  used 
for  the  comber  rolls.     Usually  this  is 


obtained  by  using  Venetian  red,  in- 
stead of  burnt  sienna,  as  a  color  mix- 
ing. At  the  slubber,  the  drawing  is 
made  up  into  .60  hank  roving.  Watch 
the  twist  and  tension.  If  top  leather 
rolls  are  varnished,  the  same  varnish 
as  is  used  for  the  drawing  frame  may 
be  used,  except  for  the  fact  that  it  is 
thinned  down  by  adding  acetic  acid 
or  vinegar.  The  roving  is  then  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames. 
At  the  first  intermediate  it  is  made 
into  2  hank,  and  at  the  fine  it  is  made 
into  61/^  for  warp,  and  8  hank  for  fill- 
ing. At  these  frames  watch  the  fol- 
lowing parts:  tension,  twist,  setting 
of  steel  rolls,  traverse  r.nd  roving 
waste.  Be  sure  to  have  no  dead  spin- 
dles.    The 

YARN  FOR  THE  FILLING 
is  spun  into  40s  on  a  frame  with  a 
1%-inch  diameter  ring,  5i/^-inch  trav- 
erse, and  a  spindle  speed  of  8,800  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  after  which  the 
filling  is  conditioned,  and  is  then 
ready  for  weaving.  The  roving  for 
warp  is  spun  into  32s,  on  a  frame  with 
2% -inch  gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring, 
and  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher,  and 
run  upon  a  beam  at  the  front.  Gener- 
ally speaking,  this  beam  is  made  up  of 
sections  of  small  beams  known  as 
handkerchief  beams,  on  which  are 
wound  the  required  number  of  ends. 


DIAPER  CLOTH 

Cotton  diaper  cloth  may  be  con- 
sidered a  staple  fabric,  being  made  in 
the  same  widths,  grades  and  patterns 
year  in  and  year  out. 

Standard   widths   are  18   inches,   20 


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inches,   22    inches,  24    inches    and  27 
inches. 

Essential  qualities  required  for 
these  goods  are  freedom  from  foreign 
matter,  and  ability  to  absorb  mois- 
ture. Being  subjected  to  excessive 
washings  when  in  use,  they  have  to 
be  of  fair  quality. 


716 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


For  the  ordinary  qualities  oi  goods, 
Allen  Seed,  Benders,  Mobile,  New 
Orleans  and  Texas  cotton  of  middling 
and  strict  middling  grades  are  used. 
In  the  lower  qualities,  card  and  rov- 
ing watte  is  used  for  the  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 


process,  which  renders  the  fabric  ab- 
sorbent to  a  large  degree,  as  well  as 
antiseptic. 

Fig.  2  shows  the  center  or  point 
harness  draft,  and  Fig.  3  the  chain 
draft,  to  use  to  produce  the  fabric 
under  consideration.  As  harness 
number  5  works  like  harness  number 
1,  it  might  be  omitted,  and  the  ends 
drawn  on  number  1  instead. 

If  the  ends  were  drawn  in  straight, 
the  chain  draft  would  be  similar  to 
the  weave,  with  selvages  extra. 


A  diaper  fabric  under  consideration 
is  constructed  as  follows:  Width,  18% 
inches,  probably  intended  for  18  inch- 
es; ends  per  inch,  62;  picks  per  inch, 
46;    warp   counts,  30s;    filling  counts, 

CALCULATIONS. 
46  (picks)  X  20  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (length  of  cut) 

=    7.S2    lbs.    filling. 

14  (counts  X  S40) 
100   (yds.)    -5-   7.83    (yds.  per  pound)    =   12.77   lbs.,   weight  of  cut. 
12.77  —  7.82   =   4.95   lbs.   warp. 
18%    (width  of  cloth)   x  62.sley   =   1,162. 
1,162    +    24   for  selvages  =   1,186,   total   ends. 
l,186(ends)  x  105  (length) 

=    30s    warp    counts. 

4.95  (weight)  x  840 


Diaper  Cloth. 


14s;  weight,  7.83  yards  per  pound; 
weave.  Fig.  1.  The  selvages  consist 
of  24  ends  of  30s  as  12  on  each  side, 
and  have  been  reeded  4  ends  per  dent; 
they  weave  plain.  The  body  of  the 
cloth  has  been  reeded  two  ends  per 
dent. 

The  combination  of  a  filling  flush 
weave,  only  one  end  out  of  4  being 
up  on  each  pick  and  a  soft,  coarse 
filling  as  compared  to  the  warp,  tends 
to  make  the  face  of  the  cloth  very 
soft.     This  is  aided  by  the  finishing 


LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Diaper  cloth  may  be  woven  on  sin- 
gle box  dobby  or  cam  looms.  If  wo- 
ven on  the  latter,  a  cam  arrangement 
of  8  picks  to  the  round,  with  selvage 
motion  extra,  would  be  required.  As 
it  is  not  necessary  to  stop  production 
for  ordinary  misweaves,  the  cam  loom 
would  be  the  best  to  use  on  account 
of  its  steadier  running. 

The  object  of  the  finishing  process 
is  to  rid  the  fabric  of  the  cotton  wax 
and  foreign  matter,  and  render  it  ab- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


717 


sorbent,  white  and  clean.  This  is  ac- 
complished by  treating  with  an  alka- 
line solution  of  caustic  soda,  bleach- 
ing, washing  and  drying.  It  is  then 
sterilized  by  formaldehyde  or  steam, 
dried,  and  made  up,  usually  in  10- 
yard  bolts  covered  with  a  sealed 
wrapper. 


BALINE 


Baline  refers  to  a  class  of  goods 
that  is,  in  point  of  texture,  between 
the  coarser  stuff  known  as  burlap  and 
the  lighter  and  somewhat  finer  mate- 
rial known  as  canvas. 

Baline  is  practically  a  coarse  kind  of 
canvas.  It  is  made  frotn  the  best 
grades  of  jute,  flax  and  hemp  and  is 
used  for  numerous  purposes.  The  very 
coarse  quality  is  used  principally  for 
wrapping  merchandise,  and  the  finer 
grades  are  used  for  curtains  and  up- 
holstery purposes,  and  also  for  stiffen- 
ing wearing  apparel,  etc. 

Baline,  as  used  for  stiffening  wear- 
ing apparel,  is  inserted  between  the 
surface  cloth  and  the  lining,  usually  at 
the  lapels  and  sleeves,  in  order  both 
to  stiffen  and  retain  the  shape  of  set- 
ting of  that  portion  of  the  garment. 

THE  GOODS 

are  made  in  various  widths;  that  used 
for  upholstery  purposes  ranges  from 
50  to  64  inches,  and  that  used 
for  tailoring  purposes  usually  comes 
in  narrow  widths  from  22  to  33 
inches.  The  narrow  goods,  however, 
are  usually  woven  double  width  with 
fa-^t  center  selvages,  then  cut  in  two 
parts  during  the  finishing. 

Baline  is  made  in  several  qualities. 
The  best  grades  are  made  up  entirely 
of  tow  yarn,  a  short  flax  fibre,  another 
grade  is  made  with  a  combination  of 
tow  yarn  and  hemp  or  jute,  and  the 
lower  qualities  are  usually  made  en- 
tirely from  either  hemp  or  jute. 

In  the  combination  fabric  the  hemp 
or  jute  usually  figures  as  filling,  while 
the  fiax  or  tow  yarn  is  used  for  the 
warp,  because  the  latter  is  with  less 
difl^culty  made  up  into  a  smoother  and 
stronger  thread  than  either  hemp  or 
lute.  The  warn  and  filling  for 
these    goods    interlaces    on    the    plain 


weave  system.  The  goods  used  for 
decorating  purposes  are  dyed  in  the 
piece  and  the  prevailing  colors  are 
dark  red,  garnet,  and  various  shades 
of  blue.  The  goods  used  tor  wrapping 
merchandise  and  tailoring  purposes 
are  finished  in  their  natural  color, 
which  is  a  kind  of  drab,  or  light 
brown,  depending  on  the  material  used 
in  the  construction  of  the  goods. 

The  baline  used  for  tailoring  pur- 
poses is  the  finest  in  point  of  texture, 
and  the  goods  used  for  decorative  pur- 
poses closely  resemble  the  common 
burlap,  as  far  as  texture  is  concerned. 
In  the  finishing,  the  coarser  grade  of 
baline  receives  considerable  attention, 
being  dyed  and  sheared,  and  presents 
a  much  more  attractive  appearance 
than  the  common  burlap,  which  is  only 
pressed  after  it  comes  from  the  loom. 

Analysis  of  goods  used  for  stiffening: 

Width  in  reed,  double  width,  50 
inches;  finished  at  47 1/^  inches. 

Reed,  16  x  2,  34  picks  per  inch; 
warp,  12  cut  tow  yarn;  filling,  12  cut 
jute:  ends  in  warp,  1,600:  extra  ends 
for  all,  8;  total,  1,608;  weight  per  yard, 
15  ounces.  ' 

Take-up  in  warp  during  weaving 
about  15  per  cent. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  of  these  goods  depends 
entirely  upon  the  use  for  which  the 
fabric  is  intended.  The  quality  used 
for  upholstery  purposes  and  curtains  is 
dyed  after  the  goods  are  woven,  then 
sheared  on  both  sides  and  usually 
softened,  especially  so  if  intended  for 
curtains.  The  goods  used  for  tailoring 
purposes  are  finished  in  their  natural 
color  and  stiffened.  Some  are  stiffened 
much  more  than  others,  depending  on 
the  use  for  which  they  are  made.  The 
materials  used  for  stiffening  are  glue 
and  flour.  If  a  very  stiff  finish  is  de- 
sired, equal  proportions  of  glue  and 
flour  are  used.  The  goods  used  for 
wrapping  are  merely  sprinkled,  then 
pressed,  after  which  they  are  made  up 
into  rolls  or  laps. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  and  one-half  per  cent  formyl 
blue  B;   30  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per 
cent  alum. 


718 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  jute  black  G.;   30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  alum. 
RED. 

Five   per   cent  fast   red   R.;    30   per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  alum. 
SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  patent  blue  B. ;  25  per 
cent  Glauber's;    3  per  cent  alum. 

Most  of  the  acid  colors  can  be  dyed 
on  this  fabric  with  Glauber's  and  alum 
at  the  temperature  of  about  190  de- 
grees, in  a  jig  dye  machine.  The 
goods  are  boiled  out  with  Glauber's 
salt  and  sal  soda  to  soften  the  fibre  a 
little  before  the  dyeing  operation. 

The  addition  of  a  little  acetic  acid 
the  last  fifteen  minutes  is  beneficial 
to  most  colors. 

HONEYCOMB  CLOTH 

Honeycomb  cloth  derives  its  name 
from  its  very  close  resemblance  to  an 
ordinary  wax  honeycomb. 

In  combination  with  other  weaves 
the  honeycomb  type  of  weave  is  ex- 
tensively used  in  the  manufacture  of 
honeycomb  and  so-called  crochet 
quilts.  It  is  also  used  for  cotton  warp 
and  wool  filling  shawls  and  baby  car- 
riage robes,  in  which  the  warp  is  con- 
siderably finer  than  the  filling  in  or- 
der that  it  will  show  as  little  as  pos- 
sible. 

The  honeycomb  type  of  weave  was 
formerly  used  to  some  extent  in  the 
construction  of  cotton  toweling.  The 
cell-like  fabric,  whicli  is  practically 
identical  in  appearance  on  both  sides, 
would  appear  to  be  excellently  adapted 
for  toweling,  the  plain  weave  portions 
giving  tlie  necessary  strength  and  the 
long  floats  of  yarn  steadily  absorbing 
moisture,  but  for  some  reason  or  other 
it  is  not  seen  in  the  market  to  any  ex- 
tent at  the  present  time. 

Low  and  medium  counts  of  yarn  are 
usually  used  for  honeycomb  cloths. 

Figs.  1  and  2  illustrate  two  honey- 
comb weaves,  on  8  ends  by  6  picks  and 
8  ends  by  8  picks,  respectively.  A 
study  of  these  will  show  that  some 
ends  and  picks  interlace  more  than 
others  in  a  repeat  of  the  weave  and 


that  they  are  constructed  on  diamond 
bases. 

Unlike  the  majority  of  single  weave 
cloths,  the  effect  in  honeycomb  cloth 
differs  entirely  from  that  seen  on  the 


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U-SDfflQSnaOBDBBBDB 

nntT^DisafflGDr  hcjbdbd 
DnniUD^naDDDBnBDU 

DDfflDtBDffiDDDBDBDBn 


Fig. 1. 


Fig.  2. 


DDDBDBDanDa'^DBDBDBCD 
DDBOBBBDBGaOBaBBBGBD 
DariBBBBBDBaaaBBBBBDB 
BOBBBBBBBOBOBBBBBBBQ 
DBDBBBBBDBL.BUBBBBBLB 
DCBOBBnOBQUGBUBBBOBa 
naaBQBC  IBDaDDDBDBOBDD 
GDDDBDBDDnDDDDBDBDDD 

QannGJiaiMaDDDGBaBDBDa 

DGiiaBBaDHGDCBGBBBGBD 

aias]umai>aBDBMBBBGB 

■CBiaUIIHGBGBBBBBBBa 
UnamUIGIIIGBGBBBBBGB 
DGMDliaSDilOGDBnBBBaBa 

LnaacuBGiircGDcB  PPBoa 
caaaiciEGracccGBDBLDD 


Fig.  3. 


DnDnanBcaaDGGCBCBCDn 

DDGBGBQBGGGGC'BDBOBDa 
DaBQBBMGBauGBGBBBGBa 
CBDCIBBBaDBGBUBBBBBGa 
BIBBBBBBBC.B.  BBBBBBBG 
GB  ■BaBBDaaBaBBBBBDE 
DGBGBBBGBGGUBGBBBGBa 
GGJBGBDBUDGGaBGBDBDD 

G jaD^GBaQaDaaGBGBaDn 
aaGnGuaa^aGGGGGBGLDa 
I  Gna^ufflDDDaaDGBGBaDn 

GQG-i  GSDaaCGGGBC  BGBGG 
DGfflGiB-B^saEBDGaitGBBiiGBD 
G'SOa-BSfflffafi'DBi  rBBBBGE 
BD^^EStl^SSSrBrBKBBBBBD 
G«_fflafflfflCLTt?GBr:BBBBBaB 
GH'SaESSEDQC-Gar  BCBBBGBC 

I  G  ipr-ins?c>'anDrcBQBr bqg 
CGGGa^Kir^oaGacrBGBar  a 
oaGGaEaaGGGGCGLBcaca 


Fig,  4. 


cnGGGaBaBGBaaaDD 

LjUUJUBGBGBGBGGGD 
U j_ UBDBGBGBaBGDG 
ujJGBGBGBBBGBQELu 
G  jaGflGBBBBBUBGBD 
GBGaGBaMBBBBGaGB 

aGBasBaaBBBMaaaD 
GaGaHBBBaaaaBBGa 

BDaGBCaBBSPBBGaa 

r]B-iaaBaBBBBBQBgB 
GnanBaBaaBaaagag 
unGaaaGBBBGBDBDa 
nnanBuBGanaGBGDn 
nnDnaaDBGaaBGaaa 
arinaGaacBaaanaag 

GG^DGGGBCaaDGDna 
Fig.  5. 


design  paper,  the  diamond  effect  on 
the  paper  being  substituted  by  the 
cellular  effect  in  the  cloth.  This  fea- 
ture is  due  to  the  fact  that  yarns  ap- 
pear more  or  less  prominent,  when 
woven  into  the  cloth,  according  to  the 


GBGDBBBKBGDa 
aGBGGaBBGGBD 
GBGBGGBGGBGIi 

aaaaaGGGBGac 

GGGBC  BQBGBDa 
DDDGaaBGBGGD 
GGGBGBUBGBDn 

aaaGBGaGBGao 

GBaBGGBGGBDB 
BGanCBBBGGBC 
DBGGBBBaBGGB 

■DGaaaaBBBDC 


Fig  6. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


'19 


smaller  or  greater  amount  of  inter- 
lacings,  respectively. 

WEAVES. 

In  the  type  of  cloth  under  considera- 
tion the  longer  floats  of  warp  and  fill- 
ing form  the  ridges  of  the  honeycomb 
cells,  while  the  yarns  which  interlace 
to  a  greater  degree  form  the  recesses 
of  the  same.  The  long  warp  floats  on 
one  side  are  opposite  the  filling  floats 
on  the  other. 

Honeycomb  weaves  vary  in  size 
within  certain  limits.  The  larger  the 
weave,  the  less  firm  the  structure  of 
the  cloth.  Figs.  3  and  4  illustrate 
weaves  on  10  x  8  and  10  x  10,  respec- 
tively. With  the  same  amount  of  ma- 
terial, cloths  constructed  with  these 
would  not  be  as  firm  as  they  would  if 
weaves  Figs.  1  and  2  were  substituted. 

When  large  effects  are  desired,  the 
weave  is  modified  and  strengthened  by 
the  addition  of  a  plain  weave  around 
the  diamond,  or,  as  it  is  termed,  a  dou- 
ble diamond  is  used  for  a  base. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  a  weave  of  this 
type. 

Fig.  6  illustrates  another  variation 
of  the  honeycomb  weave  on  12  x  12. 
The  type  of  design  illustrated  in  Figs. 
2  and  4  is  the  one  generally  used.  The 
crosses  in  Figs.  1  to  4  indicate  one 
repeat  of  the  weave. 

These  fabrics  are  made  on  ordinary 
dobby  looms.     One  beam  only  is  used. 


BRIGHTON  CLOTH 

Brighton  cloth  is  distinguished  by  a 
general  effect  on  the  face  somewhat 
similar  to  honeycomb  cloth,  but  unlike 
the  latter,  it  is  not  reversible,  the  ap- 
pearance on  the  back  differing  from 
that  on  the  face.  The  principal  dif- 
ference between  honeycomb  and 
Brighton  weave  effects  is  that  the  cells 
of  the  former  appear  of  uniform  size, 
on  the  square  or  rectangular  base, 
whereas  those  of  the  latter  appear  in 
two  sizes,  large  and  small,  alternately, 
both  warp  way  and  filling  way,  on  the 
drop  or  plain  weave  order  base. 

Brighton  cloth  is  not  essentially  a 
cotton  cloth,  the  Brighton  weave, 
which       distinguishes       the       fabric. 


being  used  in  fabrics  made 
with  other  materials.  The  Bright- 
on type  of  weave  is  used  in 
making  cloths  intended  for  dress  goods, 
also  in  combination  with  other  weaves 
to  form  parts  of  large  jacquard  pat- 
terns, in  substitution  for  the  honey- 
comb weaves. 

In  designing  the  jacquard  patterns 
care  must  be  exercised  to  have  the 
Brighton  weave  correct,  the  long  floats 
of  warp  and  filling  being  in  certain  po- 
sitions in  relation  to  each  other,  or  the 
effect  will  be  spoiled.  For  illustration. 
Figs.  1  and  2  are  two  weaves  which 
at  first  glance  appear  to  be  similar. 
Fig.  1  is  a  correct  Brighton  weave  and 
differs  from  Fig.  2  in  having  the  long 
floats  of  yarn  form  a  square,  whereas 

DDD55a«CiL.GBDp;Bq 

naOBDBlJSDL  □■■■□■ 
oaoBBaaBi^BB"'"' 

■□■■■■■■■DBBBBaC] 

aBaBBMBBaDDBBagB 
nnB^BHaDLDDDBCBD 
DDaBOBDOnCDDGBDa 

DDDBBnOBDQDBDBDa 
DDBHBBBnauBgBBja 
nBBBBBBBnBaBBBBfl 

BaBaBaBDBDBaaaBB 
Fiff.  1. 


■anDannBnBDBnaaa 
■BBanDBDaaaaBDaa 
■aBaaBaaaaaiaaaaB 
■BBOBLwaaaaBBZBB 
■BaBaaaBBBBBCBDa 
aDBDrjaDDBaBDDyag 
DBQDDDan'  iBDuanca 
■DBaaaDcaaa;  coaa 
DBDBanaaaBDcnDDB 

■BBDBaBBBBBUl-.uBa 
BBBBaBBBBBBBCBOB 


■Dl 


lOBGl 


■BBBaBOBBBOB  rOB 
■BBDDQBDBDBDDQDa 
DBDDDDDBnBBDDDDLl 
■DDDQDDaBDnDDCDU 

rig.    2. 


in  the  latter  they  form  a  cross.  Figs.  3 
and  4  represent  the  long  floats  in  Figs. 
1  and  2,  respectively,  vertical  lines  in- 
dicating warp  floats  and  horizontal 
lines  filling  floats. 

Figs.  5  to  7  illustrate  the  several 
stages  in  the  construction  of  a  12  x  12 
Brighton  weave.  Fig.  5  shows  the  12 
x  12  diamond  base.  Crosses  in  Fig. 
6  indicate  a  second  line  of  twill  in  one 
direction,  added  to  the  base,  Fig.  5. 
Marks  b  in  Fig.  7  indicate  where  warp 
spots  have  been  added  in  tlie  left  and 
right  hand  corners  of  the  large  spaces, 
the  same  now  being  divided  into  two 


720 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


warp   flush  and  two   filling  flush   dia- 
monds of  equal  size. 

The  ridges  of  the  cells  in  the  cloth 
are  formed  by  the  long  floats  of  warp 
at  the  sides  and  the  long  floats  of  flU- 
ing  at  the  top  and  bottom  of  each 
diamond.  The  two  sizes  of  cells  are 
formed  by  the  intervals  between  the 
ridges  being  greater  and  less  (ab 
will  be  seen  by  Fig.  3,  which  simply 
indicates  the  ends  and  picks  covered 
by  the  long  floats  in  one  repeat  of 
weave  Fig.  1),  thereby  enclosing  larger 
and  smaller  areas,  alternately. 


Flff.   3. 


Fig.    4. 

Brighton  weaves  are  made  on  the 
same  number  of  ends  as  picks,  this 
number  being  a  multiple  of  4,  on  from 
8x8  upward.  Figs.  1,  7  and  8  are  the 
weaves  generally  used,  the  same  be- 


ing on  16  X  16,  12  X  12  and  8x8,  re- 
spectively. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Brighton  cloth  is  woven  on  a  single 


nBDnannnDDD* 
DCBDnaanDDPn 

□DDBDDDDDHOG 

DanuBDDDBaaa 
DnDDaHDBunna 

DDDnOUBDDDan 

nDDDDHDBnDng 
DaDDBaanBDDg 
DDDBDaaDDBng 
nnaDDDODDDga 
DBDaaaaaonnB 

Fig.  5. 


aBDHnaaaHESH 
■nBDaaDDQHBa 

□DDB3DaDDBDB 
□DDDBnDDBaBg 

aaaaaBDBDBHa 
HnHaHQBaBHHa 
QHaaaBaBaQtaa 

DaHHBOBDBDan 

naaBnBDDDBaa 
DDBnanDDDDBn 

DB.;  BnnDDDHDB 
BDBHEnnDHHGa 


DB^naao.rcDCB 
fflaBaaDGDunag 
naaBDLJuaoBaa 

DDDDaDDDBDfflg 
DDDDDBDinEBnq 

DnDDnaBDfflDDg 

□□DDQBnBDDDg 
QDaDBOfflDBDng 
nDDBDfflDaDBDg 
DaBDfflDnDDDBg 
DBJaDDOaDDDB 

BDffianaaDDDDU 
Fig-.  6. 


BDBnBQDa 
DBDDDBDB 
BBBDBDBa 
DBDBBBaB 
BDDDBDBa 
DBQBDBDg 
BaBDBBBCl 
BBDBaBQa 


Fig.  7. 


Fig.  8, 


box  dobby  loom  from  one  warp  and 
one  filling.  It  is  usually  woven  white 
and  piece-dyed  afterward. 


GALATEA 


Galatea  cloth  has  been  somewhat  in 
demand  the  past  two  or  three  years  by 
women  requiring  serviceable  and  neat- 
appearing  cotton  fabrics  at  a  medium 
price.  One  selling  house  advertises  it 
as  being  particularly  suitable  for  chil- 
dren's dresses  that  have  to  be  subject- 
ed to  excessive  wear,  washing  and 
ironing;  also  for  women's  outing  suits, 
and  shirtwaists. 

The  demand  appears  to  be  increas- 
ing, probably  partly  due  to  the  fact 
that  one  or  more  firms  are  specializing 
on  the  fabric  and  are  advertising  it. 

GALATEA 

is  usually  finished  27  inches  wide  and 
retails  at  14  to  20  cents  per  yard.  It  is 
shown  in  plain  colors  as  well  as  in  fig- 
ured, dotted  and  striped  designs  on 
white  and  colored  grounds.  The  pat- 
terns are  obtained  by  printing.  Some 
manufacturers  have  evidently  found 
that  they  can  take  a  standard  type  of 
fabric  and  extend  its  use  by  varying 
the  process  of  finishing  it.  The  base 
of  the  cloth,  i.  e.,  the  fabric  previous  to 
bleaching,  dyeing  or  printing,  is  noth- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


721 


Ing  more  than  an  ordinary  5-end  wary 
sateen  of  lair  quality. 
A  galatea  in  a 

SIMPLE  STRIPE  PATTERN 
is  considered  here,  the  analysis  of 
which  shows  the  following  construc- 
tion data:  width  of  cloth,  27  inches; 
ends  per  inch,  124;  picks  per  inch,  56; 
warp  counts,  23s,  right  twist;  filling 
counts,  24s,  right  twist;  weight,  3i 
yards  per  pound;  weave,  5-end  warp 
satin.     (Fig.  1.) 


nODDB 

amoan 
aaama 
■aaaa 

DDBDD 


■  BGBH 

Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


Each  selvage  consists  of  24  ends 
working  as  12  and  weaves  2  picks  in  a 
shed.  The  cloth  has  been  reeded  5 
ends  per  dent  in  the  body  of  the  cloth 
and  6  ends  per  dent  in  the  selvages. 
CALCULATIONS. 

27  inches  x  124  sley  equals  3,348 
ends,  plus  8  extras  for  selvages  (there 
being  1  end  per  dent  more  than  in  the 
ground)   equals  3,356,  total  ends. 


the  ends  drawn  one  through  each  hed- 
dle. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  of  galatea  is  of  simple 
character.  It  consists  in  bleaching,  if 
for  white,  and  printing,  if  for  colored, 
patterns.  A  light  starch,  just  enough 
to  make  the  fabric  handle  firm,  is 
used. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Galatea  is  made  up  of  yarns  the  av- 
erage count  of  which  is  about  25s. 
For  this  article  we  will  consider  the 
warp  to  be  23s  and  the  filling  yarn  24s, 
both  right  twist.  The  cotton  used  for 
this  fabric  would  be  upland  cotton  of 
a  medium  grade  and  1-inch  staple.  If 
large  quantities  of  this  cloth  are  re- 
quired, the  mixing  should  be  done  by 
machines.  Any  of  the  methods  pre 
viously  described  may  be  used,  the  ob- 
ject being  to  have  a  dry,  fluffy  cotton 
fed  to  the  openers.  If  only  a  small  mix- 
ing is  going  to  be  used,  the  mixing 
may  be  done  by  hand,  but  when  mixed 
/n  this  manner 


3,356  (ends)  x  105  (length) 
23  (counts)  X  S40 


30  (width  in  reed)  x  56  (pks.)  x  100  (length) 


=   18.24   lbs.   warp  In   100  yards  of  cloth. 


24  (counts)  X  S40 

18.24   lbs.   warp. 
8.33  lbs.   filling. 


=   8.33   lbs.   filling 


100 


26.57   lbs.,    weight   of   100   yard    cut. 
26.57   =   3.76  yards  per  pound. 


When  weighing  a  small  sample  of 
the  cloth  under  consideration  51 
square  inches  was  found  to  weigh  10.7 
grains. 

5%  (sq.  inches)  x  7,000  (grs. ) 
10.7  (weight)  x  27"  (cloth  width)  x  36  (inches  per  yard) 


THE    MIXING 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  longer  be- 
fore using,  so  that  it  will  become  thor- 
oughly  dry  and   not   have   to   be    fed 

3.78    yards   per    pound. 


LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Galatea  can  be  produced  most  eco- 
nomically on  single  box  cam  looms  in 
which  an  auxiliary  motion  is  used  ftr 
actuating  the  selvage  yarns. 

On  account  of  the  large  number  of 
ends  per  inch,  and  the  fact  that  four 
out  of  every  five  ends  are  required  to 
be  on  the  face  every  pick,  tffe  cloth  is 
woven  face  down  in  the  loom  and  the 
harnesses  actuated  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
The  drawing-in  draft  is  straight,  with 


green.  When  cotton  is  fed  green  to 
the  pickers  there  is  more  likelihood  of 
a  fire  at  these  machines.  The  cotton 
is  next  put  through  three  processes  of 
pickers  and  an  opener.  At  the  breaker 
picker  there  are  generally  two  sets  of 
cages  and  two  beaters.  The  first  beater 
that  the  cotton  comes  in  contact  with 
has  three  blades  and  its  speed  is  1,100 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  front 
beater  of  this  machine  has  two  blades 
and  its  speed  is  1,425  revolutions    per 


722 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  this  machine  is  about  40  pounds,  al- 
though in  a  great  many  mills  the  laps 
at  the  front  of  the  breaker  and  inter- 
mediate pickers  are  allowed  to  become 
as  large  as  can  be  handled  before  doff- 
ing them.  The  weight  per  yard  is  16 
ounces.  The  laps  from  the  breaker 
are  put  up  and  doubled  four  into  one 
at  the  intern:ediate.  The  beater  on  this 
machine  is  generally  of  a  two-bladed 
type  and  the  speed  of  it  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  40-yard  lap  is  37 1/^  pounds,  or  a 
15-ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher  picker  the 
beater  may  be  either  the  pin  or  the 
two-bladed,  rigid  type.  If  the  former, 
the  speed  should  be  about  1,350  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  and  for  the  rigid 
type  1,450.  It  will  be  at  once  seen  that 
a  greater  number  of  blows  will  be 
struck  with  the  pin  beater,  but  it  is 
claimed  that  the  pins  of  this  beater 
enter  the  cotton  and  do  not  strike  it  as 
forcibly  as  the  blade  of  a  rigid  type 
beater.  On  the  other  hand,  many 
carders  object  to  the  pin  beater,  espe- 
cially on  the  longer-staple  cotton, 
claiming  that  it 

PUTS  IN  NEPS. 
For  this  fabric  the  total  weight  of  a 
40-yard  lap  should  be  36^4  pounds.  A 
variation  of  one-half  either  side  of 
standard  should  be  allowed  and  every 
lap  weighed.  Look  out  for  split  laps 
and  see  that  every  part  of  the  picker 
is  working  freely,  that  the  evener  mo- 
tions are  in  perfect  order,  for  remem- 
ber it  is  on  this  arrangement  that  the 
evenness  of  the  lap  depends.  At  the 
card  the  draft  should  not  be  over  105 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  375  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  Flats  (110)  make 
one  complete  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes. Use  medium  count  wire  fillet. 
Strip,  grind,  clean,  etc.,  as  given  in 
previous  articles.  The  production  for 
this  fabric  should  be  850  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours  and  the  weight  per 
yard  of  sliver  should  be  60.  This  is 
then  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames.  For  this  class  of 
goods 

METALLIC  ROLLS 
may  be  used  to  good  advantage.    For 
this  length  of  staple  with  metallic  top 
rolls  spread  the  bottom  steel  rolls  as 


follows:  Front  to  second,  1|  inches; 
second  to  third,  1^4  inches;  third  to 
back,  11  inches.  If  leather  top  rolls 
are  used  instead,  close  rolls  a  good 
sixteenth.  The  speed  of  the  front  roll 
may  be  anything  up  to  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  according  to  the 
amount  of  drawing  needed.  As  has 
been  said  many  times  before,  as  this' 
is  really  the  last  machine  at  which 
evening  takes  place  (to  any  great  ex- 
tent), watch  to  see  that  the  stop-mo- 
tions are  working  properly.  Also  watch 
the  clearers  and  see  that  the  sliver  is 
being  coiled  properly  in  the  can,  be- 
cause nothing  causes  more  waste  and 
trouble  than  poorly  coiled  sliver  in 
cans.  Size  four  times  a  day  and  allow 
a  variation  of  two  grains  per  yard  (av- 
erage) before  changing.  Scour  draw- 
ings frequently.  The  weight  per  yard 
of  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  is  75 
grains  per  yard.  The  doublings  are  6 
into  1.  At  the  slubber,  the  drawing  is 
made  into  .45  hank  roving,  after  which 
it  is  put  through  two  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES 

and  made  into  the  following  hank  rov- 
ing at  each;  first  intermediate,  1.65; 
fine,  5  hank.  This  is  taken  to  the  spin- 
ning frame  and  for  the  warp  is  spun 
into  23s,  with  a  right-handed  twist. 
Otherwise  than  being  twisted  right- 
handed,  the  particulars  are  as  follows: 
2-inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse, 
9,500  revolutions  per  minute  spindle 
speed  and  a  twist  per  inch  of  22.7  plus. 
The  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and 
put  through  the  slasher. 

The  filling  yarn  for  this  fabric  is 
also  a  right  twist,  otherwise  the  par- 
ticulars for  the  frame  are  as  follows: 
11/^  inch  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch  trav- 
erse, spindle  speed  of  7,600  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  condi- 
tioned. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
Following  are  dyeing  particulars  for 
100  pounds  of  goods: 
PINK. 
Four    ounces     Erika    pink     G. ;     10 
pounds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 
Six  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  FF. ;  10 
pounds  Glauber's;   1  pound  sal  soda. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


723 


CREAM. 
Four  ounces  immedial  yellow  D. ;   2 
ounces    immedial    cutch    G.;    1    pound 
sulphide  sodium;   2  pounds  soda  ash 
10   pounds   salt. 

NAVY. 

Ten  pounds  immedial  indone  B. ;  10 
pounds  sulphide  sodium;  3  pounds 
soda  ash;  30  pounds  salt. 

WINE. 
Six  pounds  brilliant  Bordeaux  R.;   2 
pounds  sal  soda;  30  pounds  Glauber's. 

TAN. 

One    pound    immedial    cutch    B. ; 
pound   immedial  yellow   D. ;    3   pounds 
sulphide   sodium;    30    pounds   salt;     3 
pounds  soda  ash. 


VELOUR 


Velour  Is  a  type  of  filling  pile  fab- 
ric of  fair  to  good  quality,  made  on  the 
weave  principles  explained  in  the  ac- 
ticle  dealing  with  velveteens.  It  dif- 
fers from  velveteen  in  having  pile  fill- 
ing of  some  material  other  than  cot- 
ton. 

Velour  for  dress  and  cloaking  pur 
poses  is  made  with  2  or  3  ply  cotton 
yarns  for  the  warp  and  filling  of  the 
ground  cloth,  and  mohair  or  luster 
worsted  filling  for  the  pile.  The  cloth 
widths  range  from  about  27  inches  to 
54  inches.  The  weights  and  qualities 
also  vary,  as  will  be  inferred  from  a 
recent  retail  price  list  for  32-inch 
goods.  These  prices  range  from  $2  to 
$4  per  yard. 

The  better  qualities  of  dress  velours 
are  usually  from  27  to  32  inches  wide. 

Large  quantities  of  velour  fabrics  are 
also  used  for  curtain  and  upholstery 
purposes,  the  points  of  the  fibres  re 
ceiving  and  reflecting  the  light  and  in- 
dicating full,  deep  colors.  The  pecul- 
iar manner  in  which  the  cloth  is  con- 
structed makes  it  an  excellent  wearing 
fabric.  In  jute  velours,  which  are  used 
for  upholstery  purposes  to  a  greater 
extent  than  anomal  fibre  pile  velours, 
the  pile  yarn  is  of  jute. 

In  dress  fabrics,  velours  are  usually 
of  solid  color.  For  upholstery  pur- 
poses they  are  of  solid  or  various  col- 


ors and  patterns,  the  result  of  print- 
ing, embossing,  cutting  or  burning. 

The  word  velour,  or  velure,  is  also 
given  to  a  pad  or  pile  fabric  used  by 
hatters  for  smoothing  and  giving  a 
luster  to  the  surface  of  hats. 

THE  ANALYSIS 
of  a  characteristic  velour  fabric,  50 
inches  wide,  retailing  for  $2.25  per 
yard,  indicates  the  following  construc- 
tion data:  Ends  per  inch,  68;  picks,  per 
inch,  225,  including  45  ground  picks 
and  180  pile  picks;  warp  counts,  2-ply 
2"s  cotton;  ground  filling  counts,  3-ply 
45s  cotton;  pile  filling  counts,  25s  wor- 
sted; weight,  21.13  ounces  per  yard 
weave.  Fig.  1.  The  picks  are  arranged 
2  ground  to  8  pile. 

When  analyzing  pile  fabrics  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  omit  to  consider 
the  structure  of  the  cloth.  If  analyzed 
as  an  ordinary  fabric  the  weave  for  the 
fabric   under  consideration   would   ap- 

DSffiEBCIDDSfflSaa 

""■DDDOCCJCCna 
ICCDC"30CDD 


□aD««no(jaaao 

DnOBBCCaODDQ 
CDDCDDDDaBBa 

Fig-.  L 


ass's  3cnfsefflQD 


Fig-.  2. 

s&CDnna6i2nci"^**3CX)a"a 

DacDD~mmcr.ouac.omna 
Daammaaz-incccmmacDa 
DaammacDOCcammzx^^ci 

Fig.  3. 

pear  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
and  there  would  appear  to 
be  an  equal  number  of  ground 
as  pile  picks.  Fig.  3  shows  a 
weave  that  could  be  used  if  the  pile 
was  required  to  be  shorter  and  less 
dense  than  with  Fig.  1.  Crosses  in 
Figs.  1  to  3  indie Ue  ground  picks; 
■     indicate  pile  picks. 

Another  point  to  consider  is  the 
method  of  ascertaining  the  counts  of 
the 

PILE    FILLING. 

Obviov.sly  a  definite  length  cannot  be 
measured  with  any  degree  of  accuracy 


724 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


after  it  has  been  cut  into  very  small 
pieces.  Knowing  the  construction  and 
weight  of  the  fabric,  and  the  counts 
of  the  ground  yarns,  the  pile  yarn 
counts  may  be  found  as  follows: 


both  lengths  of  staple  are  stapled  in 
the  usual  manner,  and  in  large  mills 
are  mixed  by  machines,  while  in  small 
mills,  or  mills  using  a  small  quantity 
of  these  lengths  of  staples,  the  mix- 


es  (ends)   X  50   (width)    »"  3,400  ends. 
3,400  X  105  (length) 

=    42.5    lbs.    warp. 

10  (counts)  X  840 

45  (picks)  X  55"  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (length) 

15  X  S40 

21.13  ozs.  (weight  per  yard)  x  100  (length) 

16  (ozs.  per  pound) 

42.5     lbs.   warp. 

19.64   lbs.   ground  filling. 

62.14   lbs.   ground  yarn. 

132.06    —  62.14    =    69.92    lbs.    pile    filling. 

180  (picks)  X  55  in.  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (length) 


19.64   lbs.   of   ground   filling. 


132.06  lbs.  weight  of  100  yard  cut. 


69.92  (lbs.)  X  560 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Velours  re(iuire  a  two-box  dobby 
loom  of  heavy  pattern,  with  a  special 
take-up  motion  on  account  of  the  large 
number  of  picks  per  inch.  One  beam 
only  is  required. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  process  consists  of 
cutting,  singeing  or  gassing,  scouring, 
bleaching  (if  for  white),  dyeing  and 
drying.  Upholstery  goods  are  printed 
after  being  dried,  usually  by  the  dis- 
charge process.  Embossed  effects  are 
almost  entirely  confined  to  solid  col- 
or fabrics  and  are  obtained  by  pres- 
sure under  suitable  heated  and  pre- 
pared rollers. 

For  other  data  regarding  filling  pile 
fabrics  the  reader  is  referred  to  the 
articles  on  "Velveteen"  and  "Velvet- 
een  Cutting." 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Velour  is  made  out  of  two  different 
lengths  of  staple  of  American  peeler 
cotton  and  a  worsted  yarn.  The  counts 
of  yarn  used  in  the  sample  under  de- 
scription are  as  follows:  Warp  counts, 
2-ply  20s,  which  is  made  from  1-inch 
stock,  and  for  ground  filling  counts 
3-45s,  which  is  made  out  of  1  3-16-inch 
stock,  and  for  pile  filling,  25s  worsted 
yarns,  which  is  equal  to  a  16  2-33 
(single)  cotton  yarn.    The  cottons  for 


=   25    -f    counts  of  pile   filling. 

Ing  is  done  by  hand.    For  both  stocks 
the 

PICKING  PARTICULARS 
are  practically  the  same,  and  one  meth- 
od will  answer  for  both.  They  are  put 
through  three  processes  of  pickers  and 
an  opener,  the  breaker  picker,  being 
known  as  a  combination  picker,  hav- 
ing two  sets  of  cages  and  two  beaters; 
the  first,  or  that  beater  coming  into 
contact  with  the  cotton  first,  has  three 
blades  and  revolves  at  a  speed  of  1,- 
125  revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
front  beater  is  generally  two-bladed, 
having  a  speed  of  1,500  revolutioas  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap  is 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermediate 
picker  and  doubled  four  into  one.  At 
this  picker  the  beater  is  of  a  rigid, 
two-bladed  type,  and  its  speed  is  1,425 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  a  42-yard  lap  is  38 1^  pounds, 
or  a  141/^ -ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher 
picker,  the  speed  of  a  three-bladed,  pin 
beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  of  a  two-bladed,  rigid  beater  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  a  50-yard  lap  is  46  pounds 
net  for  the  1-inch  stock  or  a  14^/^- 
ounce  lap  and  39  pounds  net  or  a  12^^- 
ounce  lap  for  the  1  3-16-inch  stock. 

AT   THE    CARD 
there  are  several  minor  changes  from 
one  stock  to  the  other,  the  principal 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


725 


ones  being  as  follows:  The  distance 
from  feed  plate  to  licker-in  should  be 
increased  so  as  not  to  injure  or  break 
the  longer  staple.  For  the  shorter 
stock  the  draft  should  be  not  more 
than  100.  Set  feed  plate  to  licker-in 
to  7-l,000ths  gauge;  flats  to  licker-in 
7-l,00Oth3;  doffer  to  cylinder,  7  1,- 
OOOths  doffer  comb  to  doffer,  with  a 
10-l,000ths  gauge,  the  other  settings 
being  the  same  as  those  used  for  in- 
digo prints.  For  the  longer  stock  set 
feed  plate  to  licker-in,  17-l,000ths;  flats 
to  cylinder,  7-l,000ths;  doffer  to  cylin- 
der, 5-l,000ths,  etc.  The  draft  for  this 
length  of  staple  should  not  be  less 
than  100  and  110  of  a  draft  is  better. 
The  percentage  of  all  waste  at  the 
card  for  1-inch  stock  should  not  ex- 
ceed 7V4  per  cent  and  for  1  3-16-inch 
staple  Sy2  per  cent.  Strip,  grind  and 
clean  as  shown  formerly  when  the 
same  lengths  of  staple  were  being  de- 
scribed. The  weight  per  yard  for  1- 
inch  staple  should  be  60  grains  per 
yard  and  for  the  1  3-16-inch  stock,  55 
grains  per  yard.    The 

PRODUCTION 

for  a  week  of  60  hours  should  be  as 
follows:  1-inch  staple,  750  pounds  and 
1  3-16-inch  staple,  550  pounds.  The  1  3- 
16-inch  stock  is  combed  (although  for 
all  grades  of  velour  the  yarn  is  not 
combed).  The  general  method  used 
is  as  follows:  Sliver  lap  16  into  1  or 
an  8% -inch  lap;  weight  of  finished  lap 
per  yard,  420  grains.  The  sliver  laps 
are  doubled  6  into  1  or  to  a  lOi/^-inch 
lap,  the  weight  being  440  grains  per 
yard.  These  laps,  in  turn,  are  put  up 
at  the  comber  and  doubled  eight  into 
one,  the  weight  of  the  finished  sliver 
being  65  grains  per  yard.  Set  the 
comber  as  before  described  for  this 
length  of  staple.  For  this  class  of 
goods  16  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken 
out.  Use  one  of  the  receipts  for  var- 
nish that  have  been  given  from  time 
to  time,  and  keep  all  leather  rolls  in 
good  condition,  no  matter  whether 
they  are  on  sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap, 
combers,  drawing  frames  or  slubbers 
and  speeders.  The  sliver  from  the 
comber  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  dou- 
bling   6     int>      1     at    each    process. 


The  speed  of  the  front  roll  depends 
upon  conditions,  but  a  fair  speed  is 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight 
per  yard  of  finished  sliver  is  75  grains. 
The  1-inch  stock  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  being  75  grains  per  yard. 
Size  at  the  ribbon  lap  twice  a  day,  an 
allowance  of  five  grains  per  yard  be 
ing  allowed  from  standard  before 
changing.  At  the  drawing  frame  size 
four  times  a  day,  a  variation  of  two 
grains  per  yard  being  allowed.  The 
drawing  frame  should  be  set  for 
1  3-16-inch  stock,  front  to  second, 
1  5-16  inch;  second  to  third,  1  7-16 
inch  and  third  to  back,  1  9-16  inch 
for  leather  top  rolls;  for  metallic  rolls, 
spread  rollers  %  to  I  of  an  inch  far- 
ther apart. 

AT    THE    SLUBBER 

the  drawing  is  made  in  .60  for  both 
stocks,  after  which  the  slubber  roving 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  speed- 
ers for  20s  yarn,  the  hank  roving  at 
each  process  being  1.50  at  first,  and  4 
at  second.  This  is  spun  into  20s  on  a 
frame  with  a  two-inch  diameter  ring; 
7-inch  traverse;  21.24  twist  per  inch, 
and  spindle  speed  of  9,400  revolutions 
per  minute,  after  which  the  yarn  is 
spooled  and  twisted  into  2-20s,  then 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher.  The 
slubber  roving  for  45s  is  put  through 
two  processes,  the  hank  roving  at  each 
being  2.50  at  first  and  10  hank  at  the 
fine.  This  roving  is  spun  into  45s  on 
a  frame  with  1^/4 -inch  diameter  ring; 
5% -inch  traverse;  25  plus  twist  per 
inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of  8,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then 
twisted  into  3-45s  and  conditioned. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
WINE. 
6    per   cent   brilliant    diamine    Bor- 
deaux R. ;  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  topped  with  1  per  cent 
saffranine. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
8  per  cent  immedial  indogene  B.;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  1  per  cent  brilliant  green  G.;  1 
per  cent  methyl  violet  B. 


726 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


OLIVE. 

6  per  cent  katigen  olive  GN. ;  2  per 
cent  katigen  green  2  B.;  1  per  cent 
katigen  brown  B.;  topped  with  1  per 
cent  auramine;  1  per  cent  brilliant 
green  crys. 

BROWN. 

6  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G. ;  2  per 
cent  immedial  yellow  D.;  1  per  cent 
immedial  brown  B. ;  10  per  cent  sul- 
phide of  soda;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  salt;  topped  with  2  per 
cent  auramine;  2  per  cent  Bismarck 
brown. 

SLATE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  black  NN.;  4 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  4  ounces  methyl  violet  B. ;  1 
ounce  brilliant  green  B. 

GRAY. 

1  per  cent  immedial  black  NN.;  2 
ounces  immedial  yellow  D. ;  topped 
with  2  ounces  brilliant  green  B. ;  2 
ounces  methyl  violet  B. 

FAWN  BROWN. 

4  per  cent  immedial  brown  B. ;  2  per 
cent  immedial  brown  RR.;  6  per  cent 
sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  salt;  topped  with  2  per 
cent   Bismarck   brown   R. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 

6  per  cent  immedial  green  BB.;  2 
per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B.;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  1  per  cent  brilliant  green  B. 
PEACOCK   GREEN. 

4  per  cent  immedial  new  blue  G. ;  4 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  2  per  cent  brilliant  green  B. 

All  these  shades  are  dyed  with  the 

sulphur  colors,  well  rinsed  with  water 

and  dyed  again  at  180  degrees  F.,  and 

well  rinsed  in  water  again  and  dried. 

BLACK. 

10  per  cent  immedial  brilliant  black 
G.;  10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  top- 
ped with  4  per  cent  immedial  indone 
B.;  4  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
Rinsed  and  soaped. 


GLORIA  SILK  or  GLORIA  CLOTH 

Gloria  silk  or  gloria  cloth  is  a  name 
applied  to  a  fabric  used  extensively 
for  umbrellas.  This  fabric  is  made  up 
of  fine  organzine  silk  warp,  and  either 
cotton,  worsted  or  mohair  filling. 

The  finest  grades  of  this  fabric  are 
made  with  a  fine  organzine  silk  warp 
and  fine  French  spun  Australian  wor- 
sted filling  of  a  very  high  texture, 
both  warp  and  filling,  while  in  the 
cheaper  grades  cotton  is  substituted 
for  worsted. 

The  fabric  made  with  silk  and  wor- 
sted is  oftentimes  used  as  a  dress  fab- 
ric, with  a  slight  change  in  texture; 
the  counts  of  the  materials  may  be  a 
little  finer  and  the  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  are  less  than  in  the  umbrella  fab- 
rics. 

The  fabric  used  as  dress  goods  is 
commonly  known  to  the  trade  as  lans- 
downe.  This  fabric,  by  reason  of  the 
texture,  is  softer  to  the  touch  than 
the  gloria  cloth. 

Both  fabrics  are  made  in  the  gray, 
then  dyed  in  the  piece.  The  fabric 
used  for  umbrellas  is  usually  dyed 
black  and  the  fabric  intended  for  a 
dress  is  dyed  in  various  shades  of 
solid  colors,  such  as  lavender,  pink, 
blue,  sometimes  finished  in  pure  white 
or  bleached  and  sometimes  the  goods 
are  dyed  black,  if  the  trade  desires  it. 

A  distinguishing  feature  of  these 
fabrics  in  conjunction  with  the  mate- 

DasDaa 
mmamma 

MDHBDI 

DMoaa 
mmamma 
mammam 

Fig.    L 


anaoam 

DDQDBa 

DaaBDD 
DDHaaa 
DaaDDD 
■aonaa 

Fig.    2. 


rials  used  is  the  weave,  which  is  a 
three -end  twill  — j  ,  and  is  woven  in 
a  width  of  about  45  inches  in  reed. 

In  the  best  grades  of  the  umbrella 
fabric  the  construction  is  of  such  a 
high  texture  that  the  fabric  need  not 
be  waterproofed  as  are  some  fabrics 
used  as  a  protection  against  the  ele- 


A  Cotton  fabrics  glossary 


m 


ments,  as,  for  instance,  raincloth, 
which  is  rainproofed  during  tlie  finish- 
ing process.  The  texture  of  the  gloria 
clotli  is  sufficiently  compact  to  be  im- 
pervious to  the  rain. 

ANALYSIS 
follows  of  fabrics  used  for  umbrellas 
and  also  fabrics  used  for  dress  goods. 

First,  Gloria  cloth:  width  of  warp 
in  reed,  45  inches;  width  of  fabric 
finished,  40-41  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  5.5  x  3,  equals  165;  ends  per  inch 
finished  fabric,  180;  warp,  ly^  dram 
organzine  silk. 

Take-up  during  weaving,  8  per  cent. 

Practically  no  shrinkage  in  cloth  in 
length  during  finishing. 

Filling,  160  picks  per  inch;  l-70s 
French  spun  Australian  worsted. 

Second:  Lansdowne:  width  in  reed, 
45  inches;  width  of  fabric  finished, 
40-41;  ends  per  inch  in  reed,  150 — 50  x 
3  reed;  ends  per  inch  in  finished  fab- 
ric, 168;  warp,  1%  dram  organzine 
silk. 

Filling,  150  picks;  l-90s  French 
spun  Australian  worsted. 

These  fabrics  are  woven  on  harness 
looms;  the  warp  is  drawn  straight  on 
six  harnesses,  through  French  string 
heddles.  This  particular  heddle  is  al- 
most indispensable  in  silk  weaving. 

Fig.  1,  two  repeats  of  weave. 

Fig.  2,  drawing-in  draft. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Gloria  cloth  is  made  up  from  many 
different  raw  stocks,  and  may  be  either 
composed  of  worsted,  silk,  mohair  or 
cotton  yarns  or  a  combination  of  any 
two.  Gloria  is  sometimes  called  um- 
brella cloth  on  account  of  its  extensive 
use  for  covering  this  article,  and  when 
used  for  this  purpose  it  is  generally 
constructed  from  cotton  yarns.  The 
counts  of  the  yarn  used  vary  from  40s 
to  60s,  but  a  good  average  would  be 
45s  for  both  warp  and  filling.  The  raw 
stock  used  for  the  better  cloth  is  Egyp- 
tian cotton  of  li-inch  staple,  but  it 
is  the  general  rule  nowadays  to  mix 
Allen  1%-inch  staple  cotton  with  the 
Egyptian,  so  as  to  cheapen  the  cloth, 
the  proportion  of  American  cotton  used 
varying  from  one -sixth  to  one-half, 
the  blending  being  generally  done  at 


the  breaker  drawing  frame.  The  cot- 
tons should  be  mixed  and  up  to  the 
drawing  frame  run  separately.  They 
should  be  mixed  in  the  usual  manner; 
If  a  bale  breaker  is  used  better  re- 
sults will  be  obtained  and  the  mix- 
ings "will  not  have  to  stand  as  long 
to  dry  out  as  when  hand  mixings  are 
made.  The  cotton  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  pickers. 
On  the  opener  the  stripping  roll  should 
be  set  about  one-half  an  inch  from  the 
lifting  roll  and 

THE    HOPPER 

should  always  be  kept  three-quarters 
full  of  cotton.  The  processes  of  pick- 
ers used  may  be  three,  as  stated  be- 
fore, or  two,  the  breaker  being  what  is 
known  as  a  combination  picker,  that 
is,  having  two  beaters  and  two  sets  of 
cages.  For  various  reasons  the  latter 
method  is  considered  the  better  of  the 
two.  In  this  article  we  will  consider 
the  processes  to  be  three  separate 
pickers,  although  the  speeds  of  the 
beaters  given  may  be  used  if  two  proc- 
esses of  pickers  are  used.  The  speed 
of  the  breaker  beater  is  1,350  for  a 
two-bladed  beater  and  900  revolutions 
per  minute  for  a  three-bladed  beater. 
The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front 
would  be  about  40  pounds,  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  are  doubled  5  into 
1  at  the  intermediate  picker.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of  this  picker  is  1,- 
300  revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  at  this  machine  is  Zl\^ 
pounds,  or  a  IS^/^-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1,200  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  the  weight  of  a  lap  is  31%  pounds, 
or  a  121/^-ounce  lap. 

THE  SPEEDS 
of  the  beater  given  above  are  for  the 
Egyptian  stock.  The  Allen  seed  would 
require  a  higher  speed  of  the  beater 
to  get  the  dirt  out.  the  increase  be- 
ing about  100  revolutions  per  minute 
at  each  process.  Every  lap  should  be 
weighed  as  it  is  taken  from  the  finish- 
er picker,  a  variation  of  one-half  a 
pound  from  the  standard  weight  being 
allowed.  The  laps  are  then  put  up  at 
the  card  and  given  a  draft  of  110.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  is  one  complete  rev- 


72S 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


olution  every  40  minutes;  set  and 
grind  as  usual.  The  production  stiould 
be  about  500  pounds  a  week  of  60 
hours,  the  weight  of  the  sliver  being 
50  grains  per  yard.  Strip  cards  three 
times  a  day  for  a  lOi^-hour  day.  The 
card  sliver  is  next  put  through  a  sliv- 
er lap  machine,  the  doublings  for  an 
8%-inch  lap  being  16  into  1.  The 
weight  of  a  yard  of  this  lap  at  the 
front  is  280  grains.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  rihbon  lap  machine  and  doubled 
6  into  1.  The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  275 
grains  per  yard.  The  spread  of  the 
rolls  at  the  ribbon  lap  for  this  staple 
is,  front  to  second,  11  inches;  second 
to  third.  If  inches;  third  to  back,  11 
inches.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  either  6  or  8  into 
1,  according  to  the  number  of  heads 
the  comber  contains.  For  this  article 
we  will  assume  6.  The  speed  is  90 
nips  per  minute,  the  weight  of  sliver 
delivered  being  40  grains  per  yard. 
The  percentage  of  waste  taken  out  is 
16.  If  larger  laps  than  83  inches  are 
used  the  weight  of  the  lap,  etc.,  will 
be  proportionately  heavier.  Set  and 
time  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
At  the  drawing  frame  the  doubling  at 
each  of  the  two  processes  used  is  6 
into  1.  It  is  at  this  machine  that  the 
blending  is  done,  three  ends  of  Amer- 
ican cotton  being  run  in  with  three 
ends  of  Egyptian. 

THE  WEIGHT 
of  the  drawing  at  the  front  should  be 
50  grains  per  yard.  The  rolls  should 
be  set  as  follows:  front  to  second,  ll^ 
inches;  second  to  third,  11  inches,  and 
third  to  back,  li  inches.  Size  four 
times  a  day  and  allow  a  variation  of 
■  two  grains  per  yard  either  side  of 
standard  before  changing.  Varnish 
and  change  leather  top  rolls  frequent- 
ly. At  the  slubber  the  sliver  is  made 
into  .70  hank  roving  and  is  then  put 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  process  being 
as  follows:  First  intermediate,  1.40 
hank;  second  intermediate,  3.40  hank, 
and  fine'  frame,  9.40  hank.  The  twist 
per  inch  put  into  the  roving  is  very 
important,  and  for  making  these  yams 
the  following  twists  are  used  at  the 
slubber:  73  turns  per  inch;  first  inter- 


mediate, 1.01  per  inch;  second  inter- 
mediate, 1.85  per  inch,  and  fine,  3.7 
per  inch.  Lay  close  and  size  fine 
frames  once  a  day,  and  slubbers  once 
a  week. 

BETTER   RESULTS 

are  obtained  if  either  self-weighted 
rolls  are  used  on  the  fine  frames  or  if 
not  using  self-weighted  rolls  take 
weight  off  of  second  roll  and  take  one 
tooth  of  draft  out  between  second  and 
third  rolls.  Watch  the  leather  rolls 
to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect  condi- 
tion. The  yarn  is  taken  to  the  mule 
room  and  spun  with  a  soft  twist  foi 
both  warp  and  filling;  the  warp  yarn 
is  then  run  on  to  spools,  after  which  it 
is  warped  and  slashed  and  is  then 
ready  for  the  beam.  Particular  care 
has  to  be  taken  with  this  fabric  to 
keep  it  free  from  neps  on  account  of 
their  showing  up  so  plainly  when  made 
up  on  the  umbrella,  and  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  watch  the  beaters,  flats  and 
settings  at  the  card,  percentage  and 
settings  at  the  comber. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

Gloria  cloth  is  made  for  the  umbrel- 
la trade.  When  composed  of  silk  and 
w^ool  it  is  dyed  by  special  colors,  the 
colors  dyeing  wool  and  silk  in  one 
bath.  For  cheap  imitation  gloria  cloths 
of  cotton  and  wool,  a  union  black  is 
dyed:  5  per  cent  union  black  B. ;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Boil  forty 
minutes,  and  run  without  steam  for 
forty    minutes    longer.      For 

ALL  COTTON  CHEAP  GLORIAS, 

which  are  not  glorias  at  all,  as  the 
only  real  gloria  cloth  is  made  from 
silk  and  wool,  the  aniline  salt  black 
is  dyed;  the  goods  are  passed  through 
a  solution  of  aniline  salt,  dyed  and 
aged  and  developed  and  washed. 


CANVAS 


Canvas  is  a  term  applied  to  heavy, 
plain  weave  cloths  made  with  coarse, 
ply  cotton  yarns.  It  does  not  refer 
to  any  particular  grade  or  weight  of 
cloth. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


729 


Canvas  cloth  is  used  for  mail  bags, 
coverings  for  boats,  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  tents,  etc.  The 

ANALYSIS 

of  a  heavy  characteristic  canvas  fab- 
ric indicates  the  following  construc- 
tion data:  ends  per  inch,  31;  picks 
per  inch,  24;  warp  counts,  6-14s;  filling 
counts,  9-14s;  cloth  width,  24  inches; 
reed  width,  25^/4  inches;  weight,  .72 
(72-100)  yard  per  pound;  plain  weave. 
A  characteristic  feature  of  heavy,  plain 
cotton  fabrics  is  seen  in  this  cloth  in 
that  the  warp  has  contracted  in  length 
about  25  per  cent.  Goods  of  this  char- 
acter would  be  woven  on  heavy  cam 
looms  of  the  type  used  for  weaving 
duck. 

Fig.  1  is  a  weave  of  the  mock  leno 
type,  sometimes  termed  a  canvas 
weave.    Cloth   made  with   this   weave 


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paaaanBa 
aoaaaHaa 

■■■■:jGna 


A  A 


A 


Fig.     L 

is  characterized  by  small  perforations, 
caused  by  some  of  the  ends  and  picks, 
indicated  by  the  arrows,  cutting  or  op- 
posing each  other,  while  other  ends 
and  picks  in  the  same  weave  come 
closely  together.  This  cloth  is  used 
as  a  base  or  ground  for  embroidery 
work,  and  the  perforations  noted  have 
a  distinctive  value  as  an  aid  in  indi- 
cating readily  where  to  insert  the 
needle. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Canvas  is  made  up  in  a  great  many 
grades,  but  usually  the  counts  of'  the 
yarns  do  not  vary  as  much  for  the  dif- 
ferent grades  as  for  different  grades  of 
finer  fabrics.  The  sample  of  canvas 
taken  for  description  is  made  up  of 
6-14s  warp  and  9-14s  filling  This  count 
of  yarn  (considering  tl;e  fabric)  would 
be  made  up  from  1.^-1  G  to  1  1-16  Inch 
staple,  of  a  medium  grade,  and  for 
this  grade  of  fabric  the  cotton  would 
not  be  combed.  If  large  mixings  are 
required,  i.  e.,  over  60  bales  a  day,  a 


bale  breaker  should  be  used  or  some 
arrangement  made  whereby  the  mixing 
can  be  done  by  machines;  if  a  smaller 
amount  of  cotton  Is  required,  then  a 
hand  mixing  will  answer.  It  will  be 
found  a  great  advantage  to  use  ma- 
chinery for  mixing;  any  of  the  up-to- 
date  machines  and  systems  are  all 
right.  The  cotton  is  next  put  through 
an  opener  and  three  processes  of  pick- 
ers. The  pin  roll,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  the  evener  roll,  should  be  set 
about  one-half  an  inch  from  the  lift- 
ing apron.  The  breaker  picker  Is  what 
is  known  as  a  combination  picker,  hav- 
ing two  sets  of  beaters  and  two  sets  of 
cages. 

THE  BEATER 
that  first  receives  the  cotton  is  general- 
ly of  a  three-bladed  type  and  its  speed 
Is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
front  beater  of  this  same  machine  has 
two  blades,  and  Its  speed  is  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  lap  at  the  front  end  of  this  ma- 
chine is  40  to  50  pounds,  according  to 
length  of  lap  run.  Some  overseers  do 
not  have  a  full  lap  knock -off  on  either 
the  breaker  or  the  intermediate  picker, 
but  the  attendant  doffs  this  lap  at  will. 
These  breaker  laps  are  doubled  four 
into  one  at  the  intermediate  picker. 
This  picker  is  equipped  with  an  even- 
er motion  and  has  a  two-bladed  beater, 
the  speed  of  which  is  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  weight  of  a  full  lap 
is  about  40  pounds,  but  generally  this 
picker  has  no  full  lap  knock-off,  so 
the  laps  would  weigh  more  or  less 
for  a  full  lap,  but  just  the  same  per 
yard.  Four  of  these  laps  should  be  dou- 
bled into  one  at  the  finisher  picker. 
This  Is  equipped  with  a  pin  beater,  the 
speed  of  which  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  46-yard 
lap  is  iSYz  pounds  gross,  or  46  pounds 
net,  or  a  12 -ounce  lap.  Every  lap 
should  be  weighed  on  this  kind  "  of 
stock,  for  it  is  generally  a  very  sensi- 
tive cotton  to  weather  conditions. 
Watch  the  evener  motions  to  see  that 
they  are  working  properly  and  are 
clean.  Run  good  sliver  waste  up  in  the 
usual  manner.  At  the  cards  the  draft 
should  not  exceed  100  and  the  flats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  40  minutes;  set  and  grind  as  In- 


730 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY 


structions  in  article  on  indigo  prints. 
Strip  out  every  three  hours  or  threw 
times  (both  cylinder  and  doffer)  a  day 
for  a  1014 -hour  day.  If  humidifiers  are 
run, 

THE  HUMIDITY 
should  be  about  55  degees.  The  pro- 
duction of  a  card  for  a  week  of  60 
hours  should  be  650  to  750  pounds,  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  being  55  grains 
per  yard.  The  card  sliver  is  next  run 
through  either  two  or  three  processes 
of  drawing  as  required  for  the  quality 
of  the  canvas.  In  the  sample  three 
processes  are  used,  six  ends  up  at  each 
process.  The  spread  of  the  rolls  for 
1-inch  stock  with  leather  top  rolls  is 
as  follows:  front  to  second,  11  Inches; 
second  to  third,  1  3-16  inches;  third  to 
back,  1%  inches.  For  metallic  top  rolls 
spread  of  rolls  |  inch  wider  all  through. 
Watch  all  stop-motions  on  this  ma- 
chine, for  practically  the  last  doubling 
is  done  at  this  machine,  so  that  it  is 
very  important  to  see  that  the  stop- 
motions  are  in  good  order.  Varnish 
rolls  as  often  as  possible,  and  see  that 
clearers  are  properly  placed  and  pick- 
ed. The  sliver  should  be  sized  four 
times  a  day  and  should  weigh  75 
grains  per  yard.  If  humidifiers  are 
used  over  these  machines,  they  should 
give  a  mean  temperature  of  60  to  65 
degrees.  The  drawing  sliver  is  run 
through  the  slubber,  and  made  into 
40  hank  roving.  The  settings  for  rolls 
at  this  machine  are  as  follows:  front 
to  second,  1  1-16  inches,  and  second  to 
back,  11/4  inches.  Clean  steel  rolls  of 
all  laps,  etc.  The  slubber  roving  is 
then  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  at  the  first  intermediate  being 
made  into  1  hank  roving  and  at  the 
second,  3  hank  roving.  The  roving  on 
the  finer  frame  should  be  sized  once  a 
day,  the  roll  settings  used  for  both 
being  front  to  second,  1  1-16  inches  and 


second  to  back,  1^4  inches;  the  doub- 
lings at  each  being  2  into  1. 

AT  THE  SPINNING  ROOM 

the  roving  is  spun  into  14s  on  a  warp 
frame  with  a  3-inch  gauge  of  frame,  7- 
inch  traverse,  2i-inch  diameter  ring, 
17.77  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed 
of  9,000  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
is  then  doubled  into  6-14s  or  6-ply  14s, 
after  which  it  is  put  through  a  slasher 
and  run  on  a  beam. 

The  14s  filling  yarn  is  made  on  a 
li/^-inch  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch  trav- 
erse, a  12.16  twist  per  inch  and  a  spin- 
dle speed  of  6,800  -evolutions  per  min- 
ute. This  yarn  is  then  twisted  into  9- 
ply  14s  or  9-14s,  after  which  it  is  condi- 
tioned, when  it  is  ready  to  be  woven. 


BACK-CLOTH 

Back-cloth  is  a  reinforcing  cloth 
used  in  calico  printing  to  support  a 
fabric  being  printed.  Any  plain  cloth 
of  suitable  width  may  be  used  as  a 
back-cloth,  therefore  the  term  does 
not  refer  to  any  particular  width, 
weight  or  quality  of  fabric. 

The  back-cloth  passes  through  the 
printing  machine  between  the  ma- 
chine and  the  cloth  to  be  printed. 
Both  cloths,  the  back  and  the  printed, 
emerge  from  the  printing  machine  to- 
gether. The  back-cloth  is  immediate- 
ly folded,  whereas  the  printed  cloth 
goes  through  other  machines  to  "set" 
the  color.  The  color  on  the  back 
cloth,  not  being  "set,"  is  easily  washed 
out.  In  a  public  cloth  finishing  es- 
tablishment, the  back-cloth  is  usually 
bleached,  after  serving  its  purpose  at 
the  printing  machine,  and  finished  as 
required.  The  back-cloth  is  usually 
wider  than  the  cloth  it  is  intended  to 
support,  and  the  color  touches  it  only 
lightly  on  the  outer  portions. 


Kpptnh'xK. 


CRASH 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Crash  is  generally  composed  of 
yarns  varying  from  14s  to  20s,  both 
warp  and  filling  having  the  same 
count  of  yarn.  This  class  of  fabric  is 
made  from  cotton  whose  staple  varies 
from  i  to  1  1-16  inches.  For  this  ar- 
ticle we  will  consider  the  counts  of 
the  yarn  to  be  16s  and  the  staple  of 
the  cotton  1  1-16  inches  in  length.  If 
large  lots  of  this  class  of  goods  are  to 
be  handled,  say  ov-er  35,000  pounds 
per  v.eek,  preparing  machines  should 
be  used,  which  are  nothing  .more  or 
less  than  several  (from  3  to  7,  accord- 
ing to  capacity  of  mill)  hoppers  or 
openers  in  a  row  delivering  the  cotton 
onto  an  endless  apron  which  carries  it 
to  and  drops  it  into  a  line  of  trunking. 

The  cotton  is  conveyed  to  the  mixing 
bins  through  this  trunking,  the  mo- 
tive power  being  powerful  fans.  This 
allows  the  cotton,  when  it  r-eaches  the 
bins,  to  be  in  a  fluffy,  dry  state.  This 
cotton  is  next  fed  to  the  openers  and 
is  passed  through  three  processes  of 
picking.     At  the 

BREAKER  PICKER 
the  cotton  passes  through  first  a  3- 
bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater,  which  has 
a  speed  of  1,100  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, and  then  a  2-bladed  beater,  the 
speed  of  which  is  1,375  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap 
is  40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  At  the 
intermediate  picker  the  speed  of  the 
2-bladed  beater  is  1,300  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  weight  of  the  lap  is 
38  pounds,  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  At  the 
finisher  picker  there  is  a  pin  beater 
(three  amis)  the  speed  of  which  is 
1,350  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  52-yard  lap  is  46 
pounds  net,  or  a  14J-ounce  lap.  Al- 
low one-half  pound  variation  either 
side  of  standard  weight.  At  the  card, 
set  the  same  as  for  indigo  prints.  The 
top  flats  should  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  45  minutes.    The  sliv- 


er should  weigh  60  grains  per  yard, 
and  the  production  should  be  775  to 
825  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
Watch  the  setting  points  to  see  that 
all  cards  are  set  as  nearly  as  possible 
alike.  Strip  three  times  a  day  and 
watch  help  to  see  that  they  strip  ev- 
ery card.  Grind  as  before  stated.  The 
sliver  is  next  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  drawing  frames.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  at  the  finisher  for  this 
stock  should  be  350  to  400  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  the  weight  per  yar  i 
of  lap  75  grains.  Watch  the  knock  off 
motions  to  see  that  they  are  all  in 
proper  working  condition.  For  this 
class  of  work  metallic  top  rolls  may 
be  used  to  excellent  advantage.  Size 
four  times  a  day. 

THE    DRAWING    SLIVER 

is  put  through  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .46  hank  roving  and  from  here 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  at  the  first  intermediate  be- 
ing made  into  1.10  hank,  and  at  the 
second  intermediate,  or  in  this  case 
the  fine  frame,  3.25  hank.  Keep  the 
top  rolls  in  good  condition  and  the 
bottom  steel  rolls  set  properly.  This 
roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning  frame 
and  spun  into  16s  warp  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  2%-inch  gauge  of  frame, 
2-inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse 
and  spindle  speed  of  9,400  revolutions 
per  minute;  twist  per  inch,  19.  This 
yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  the  slasher,  where  it  is  heav- 
ily  sized. 

The  3-hank  roving  for  the  filling 
yarn  is  spun  into  16s  filling  on  a  frame 
with  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  6% -inch 
traverse,  13  twist  per  inch  and  spindle 
speed  of  7,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
After  leaving  the  spinning  frame,  the 
yarn  is  conditioned. 


HAMMOCK  CLOTHS 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 
Hammock  cloth  is  generally  made  in 
mills  making  low  counts  of  yarn,  or  in 


732 


APPENDIX 


mills  or  small  plants  which  make  a 
specialty  of  this  one  grade  of  goods. 
The  counts  as  well  as  the  staple  of 
the  cotton  differ  according  to  the  qual- 
ity of  the  fabric  to  be  made.  There 
is  also  another  factor  which  enters  in- 
to the  manufacture  of  this  class  of 
fabric  and  that  is  its  strength. 
Strength  in  yarn  may  be  obtained  by 
several  different  methods,  either  dou- 
bling and  twisting  two  or  more  yarns 
together  or  using  a  longer  staple,  or 
a  combination  of  both,  always  consid- 
ering that  machines  through  the  mill 
are  properly  adjusted  and  set.  An- 
other method  to  obtain  strength  is 
to  twist,  tighten,  or  in  other  words  put 
in  more  twist  per  inch.  For  the  sam- 
ple of  hamm.ock  cloth  we  will  suppose 
it  to  be  made  up  of  3-lOs  warp  and  fill- 
ing, and  we  will  assume  the  staple  of 
the  cotton  to  be  %  inch  in  length, 
straight  cotton  being  used  in  the  mix- 
ing. In  the  cheaper  grades  of  this 
cloth  comber  and  card  stripping  waste 
Is  put  into  the  mixings  in  certain  pro- 
portions. The  cotton  would  be  mixed 
by  hand  and 

TWO    PROCESSES 

of  picking  used.  The  cotton  should  be 
allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  possible  to 
dry  out,  so  as  to  be  more  easily  work- 
ed, and  it  also  lessens  the  liability  of 
fires  in  the  picker.  The  breaker  pick- 
er should  be  a  combination  picker 
with  two  sets  of  screens  and  two  beat- 
ers. The  back  beater  has  three  blades 
and  a  speed  of  1,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  forward  beater  has  two 
blades  and  a  speed  of  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  If  the  lap  measures 
40  yards,  the  weight  should  be  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  Generally, 
however,  the  lap  is  allowed  to  run  as 
large  as  possible  before  being  doffed. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1,  and 
come  under  the  action  of  a  two-blad- 
ed, rigid  beater,  the  speed  of  which 
should  be  about  1,375  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  main  points  are  to  look 
out  for  fires,  keep  lappers  very  near 
full,  watch  the  eveners  and  piano  mo- 
tions and  keep  all  parts  in  good  work- 
ing order.  The  total  weight  of  a  lay 
at  the  finisher,  for  a  40-yard  lap  should 
be    37    pounds,    or    a    14i/^-ounce    lap. 


Weigh  every  lap  and  allow  a  variation 

of  three-quarters  of  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard.  These  laps  are  then 
put  up  at  the  card,  which  is  fitted 
with  coarse  wire  fillet. 

THE  DRAFT 

should  not  be  more  than  90,  speed  of 
cylinder  165  and  the  licker-in  speed 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  Flats  make 
one  revolution  every  50  minutes  (110 
fiats).  Strip  cylinders  three  times^a 
day  and  doffer  two  times.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  should  be  65  grains  per 
yard  and  the  production  not  less  than 
950  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
The  cotton  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing  frames,  the 
doublings  being  8  into  1  at  the  break- 
er and  6  into  1  at  the  finisher.  The 
weight  per  yard  at  the  finisher  draw- 
ing should  be  80  grains;  size  three 
times  a  day.  Metallic  rolls  may  be 
used  to  good  advantage  for  this  class 
of  work.  Watch  all  the  knock-off  and 
stop-motions  at  this  machine  and  also 
look  out  for  cut  drawing.  The  roll  set- 
ting for  metallic  rolls  for  seven- 
eighths-inch  stock  is,  front  to  second. 
li  inches,  second  to  third,  1^  inches, 
and  third  to  back,  IVz  inches.  In  a 
great  many  mills  the  sliver  at  the 
drawing  frame  is  sized  only  twice  a 
day.  The  cans  of  drawing  are  put 
up  to  and  run  through  the  slubber, 
which  makes  it  into  .60  hank  roving, 
which  is  afterward  put  through  one 
process  of  fly  frames  and  made  into 
two  hank  roving.  Size  this  class  of 
roving  once  a  day  at  the  fine  frame. 
Look  out  to  see  that  the  hank  clock 
cannot  be  moved  and  hanks  made.  It 
is  next  taken  to  the  spinning  room 
and  made  into  10s  for  "warp  on  a 
frame  with  3-inch  gauge  of  frame,  2^- 
inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse 
and  spindle  speed  of  8,600  revolutions 
per  minute,  after  which  it  is  twisted 
into  3-ply  10s  at  twister,  and  then 
spooled,  warped  and  put  through  the 
slasher.  For  the  filling  yarn  the  two- 
hank  roving  is  spun  on  a  filling  frame 
with  a  l|-inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch 
traverse  and  spindle  speed  of  6,400 
revolutions  per  minute,  after  which,  it 
is  twisted  into  3-ply  10s. 


APPENDIX 


733 


MADRAS 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Madras  is  made  up  of  various 
counts  of  yarn  according  to  the  qual- 
ity wanted,  and  in  the  finer  grades  of 
this  fabric,  silk  is  used  for  the  stripes. 
Egyptian  or  a  fine  Sea  Island  cotton 
is  generally  used  in  the  finer  qualities. 
In  this  article  we  will  consider  the 
filling  yarn  to  be  made  up  of  80s  Egyp- 
tian cotton  with  a  staple  of  1%  inches. 
Egyptian  cotton,  generally  speaking,  is 
more  easily  worked  than  American 
cotton,  and  for  this  reason  higher 
speeds  are  used  than  when  the  same 
counts  of  yarn  are  made  from  Amer- 
ican cotton.  The  cotton  is  generally 
mixed  by  hand,  after  which  it  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  pickers.  At 
the  breaker  picker  the  speed  of  the 
thr-ee-bladed  beater  is  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine  is 
40  pounds,  or  an  IS-ounce  lap.  At  the 
intermediate  picker  the  speed  of  a 
two-bladed  beater  is  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  while  the  total  weight  is 
38  pounds,  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
run  through  a  two-bladed,  rigid  beat- 
er, the  speed  of  which  is  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  ot 
a  50-yard  lap  is  37i^  pounds,  or  a  12y2- 
ounce  lap.  Allow  the  usual  amount  of 
variation  from  standard  weight  of  lap, 
and  follow  instructions  for  the  picker 
room  for  high-grade  and  fine  yarns. 
The  cotton  is  next  passed  to  the  card. 

THE  DRAFT 

of  this  card  should  not  be  less  than 
110.  The  top  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  every  30  minutes. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
about  350.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
50  grains  and  the  production  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  475  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  Strip,  grind,  etc.,  the  same 
as  when  Sea  Island  cotton  is  used.  In 
mills  that  are  especially  equipped  for 
fine  counts  of  yarn  the  wire  on  the 
card  will  be  fine.  After  leaving  the 
card,  the  full  cans  are  put  up  to  the 
sliver   lap   machine.    In     the    general 


type  used  the  machine  has  16  ends 
doubled  into  1  at  the  front.  This  lap 
weighs  about  295  grains  per  yard 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  and  doubled  six  Into  1. 
The  weight  per  yard  of  lap  at  this  ma- 
chine is  275.  This  is  for  a  six-head 
comber.  The  comber  is  the  next  ma- 
chine and  at  this  machine  the  laps  are 
doubled  6  into  1.  The  settings  of  this 
machine  should  be  the  same  as  when 
Sea  Island  cotton  of  the  same  length 
is  used.  The  weight  per  yard  of  the 
combed  sliver  is  40  grains,  and  the 
speed  of  the  comber  90  nips  per  min- 
ute. Several  recipes  for  varnish  for 
the  leather-covered  top  rolls  have 
been  previously  given  and  the  follow- 
ing 

RECIPE 

will  be  found  to  be  an  excellent  addi- 
tion to  those  already  given:  Eight 
ounces  of  plate  glue,  8  ounces  of 
ground  gelatine,  12  ounces  of  burnt  si- 
enna, one  ounce  of  oil  origanum,  three 
pints  acetic  acid,  one  pint  of  water. 
The  ribbon  laps  should  be  sized  twice 
a  day  and  a  variation  of  five  grains 
per  yard  either  side  of  the  standard 
weight  allowed  before  changing.  The 
combed  sliver  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing  frames,  the 
weight  per  yard  of  a  yard  of  finished 
drawing  being  60  grains.  The  dou- 
blings at  these  machines  are  6  into  1. 
Size  the  finishers  four  times  daily  and 
allow  two  grains  per  yard  before 
changing.  The  cotton  is  next  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .60 
hank  roving.  This  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  at  the 
first  intermediate  being  made  into  1.50 
hank  roving,  at  the  second  interme- 
diate 4.50  and  at  the  fine  frame  16 
hank.  Egyptian  cotton  requires  an  ex- 
tra tooth  of  twist  as  compared  with 
Sea  Island  cotton  of  the  same  length 
of  staple  and  hank  roving.  The  mid- 
dle top  rolls  on  the  fine  or  jack  frame 
should  not  be  dead  weighted.  This 
roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning  room 
and  made  into  80s  yarn  (filling)  on  a 
frame  with  a  1^/4 -inch  diameter  ring, 
5-inch  traverse,  29.07  twist  per  inch 
and  spindle  speed  of  7,400.  This  yarn 
is  then  taken  and  conditioned. 


7S4 


APPENDIX 


GINGHAMS 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  make  up  ginghams 
(common)  vary  from  26s  to  40s  for 
both  warp  and  filling.  For  the  sample 
of  gingham  under  description  we  will 
consider  the  yarns  to  be  No.  40s  for 
both  warp  and  filling.  This  yarn 
would  be  made  from  a  medium  grade 
of  peeler  cotton  of  about  1  3-16-inch 
staple.  The  cotton,  after  being  put 
through  a  bale  breaker  or  an  opener 
known  as  a  preparer,  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  pickers  at  the 
breaker  picker.  The  speed  of  the 
three-bladed  beater  should  be  1,150 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  of  the 
two-bladed  beater  of  the  same  ma- 
chine, 1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  should  be 
40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  At  the 
intermediate  the  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  1,400  for  a  rigid,  two-bladed 
beater.  The  total  weight  of  lap  should 
be  38  pounds  or  a  12i/^-ounce  lap.  The 
finisher  picker  should  be  equipped 
with  a  pin  beater,  the  speed  of  which 
should  he  1,425  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  weight  of  a  full  lap  should 
be  39  pounds  or  a  14-ounce  lap. 

At  the  card  use  the  same  settings, 
etc.,  as  given  for  indigo  prints.  The 
flats  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  50  to  55  minutes.  Speed 
of  doffer  should  be  350  revolutions  per 
minute. 

THE  WEIGHT 

of  the  sliver  should  be  60  grains  per 
yard,  and  the  production  800  pounds 
for  a  week  of  60  hours.  The  sliver  is 
next  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames,  the  speed  of  the  fin- 
isher drawing  being  400  revolutions 
per  minute.  Watch  the  settings,  and 
size  at  this  place  four  times  a  day,  a 
variation  of  two  grains  either  side  of 
standard    weight   being   allowed. 

The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  should  be  70  grains  per 
yard.  Either  metallic  or  leather-cov- 
ered top  rolls  may  be  used  to  good  ad- 
vantage on  this  stock.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  next  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .60  hank  roving.  This 


is  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames  and  made  into  2  hank  roving 
at  the  first  intermediate  and  8  hank 
at  the  second.  Watch  the  tension  and 
waste,  and  be  especially  careful  of  mix- 
ups.  Size  the  fine  roving  at  least  once 
a  day.  The  roving  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  and  made  into  40s  on  a 
warp  frame  with  a  1%-inch  ring,  Cl- 
inch traverse,  28.46  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled 
and  warped,  after  which  it  is  run 
through  the  slasher.  A  good  size  is  as 
follows:  water,  100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  54  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2 
pounds;   white  soap,  l^^  pounds. 

The  8  hank  roving  for  filling  yam 
is  made  on  a  frame  with  Ig-inch  di- 
ameter ring,  51/^-inch  traverse,  23.72 
twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8,8.0  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn  is  then  conditioned. 


SCRIM 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Scrim  is  made  of  cotton  counts  of 
yarn  from  20s  to  40s.  For  this  article 
we  will  consider  the  cotton  to  be  11- 
inch  staple  peeler  of  a  medium  of  323 
count.  This  class  of  goods  is  made  in 
mills  of  the  first  division,  as  given  In 
a  previous  article.  Large  mixings 
should  be  made  by  hand  and  the  cot 
ton  is  then  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
breaker  picker  has  two  sets  of  cages 
and  two  beaters,  the  back  beater  hav- 
ing three  blades  and  making  1,050  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  front  beater 
has  two  blades  and  makes  1,300  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  40-yard  lap  at  this  machine  is  40 
pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  of  the  intermediate  beat- 
er (two-bladed)  should  be  1,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  and  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  is  37  ^^  pounds,  or  a 
12 -ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher  the  lap 
should  weigh  39  pounds,  or  a  14%- 
ounce  lap,  while  the  speed  of  the  beat- 
er (of  a  pin  type)  should  be  1,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  Every  lap  should 
be  weighed  and  a  variation  of  half  a 


APPENDIX 


736 


pound  either  side  of  standard  weight 
allowed  to  pass,  all  others  being  put 
back  to  be  run  over  again. 

THE  CARD  CLOTHING 
should  be  of  a  medium  count  wire,  the 
wire  for  doffer  and  top  flats  being  two 
points  finer  than  the  cylinder.  The 
draft  of  card  should  be  about  100  and 
the  sliver  should  weigh  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  production  should  be  750 
pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.  For 
other  particulars  for  card  follow  those 
given  for  indigo  prints.  The  cotton  is 
next  put  through  the  sliver  lap  ma- 
chine and  doubled  16  into  1,  the  lap 
weighing  320  grains  per  yard.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  anc" 
doubled  6  into  1,  the  weight  per  yard 
being  440  grains  for  a  lap  10%  inches 
in  width.  These  laps  are  put  up  to  an 
eight-head  comber  and  made  into  a 
65-grain  sliver,  taking  out  IT^  per 
cent  of  waste.  For  roller  varnish  and 
other  particulars  about  comber,  see 
article  on  madras.  The  comber  sliver 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  draw- 
ing frames,  the  doublings  being  6  into 
1  at  each  process.  The  weight  per 
yard  of  the  finished  drawing  is  75 
grains.  The  same  roller  varnish  may 
be  used  on  the  drawing  frames  as  at 
the  comber.  Size  four  times  a  day  and 
look  out  for  the  knock-off  motions  to 
see  that  they  are  in  proper  working 
order.  The  sliver  is  next  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .60  hanl- 
roving.  This  is  then  put  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames  or  speeders, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  being  as  fol- 
lows: First  intermediate  2  hank,  and 
fine  61^  hank.  Keep  the  leather  top 
rolls  in  good  condition  and  watch  to 
stop  double,  single  and  bunches. 

THE  ROVING 
is  then  taken  to  the  spinning  room 
and  spun  into  32s  on  a  warp  frame 
with  a  Ig-inch  diam.eter  ring,  6i^-inch 
traverse,  26.87  twist  per  inch  and. 
spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  Is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  run  through  the  slasher, 
where  it  is  put  through  a  special  size. 
The  roving  for  the  filling  is  spun 
Into  32s  on  a  frame  with  a  1%-inch  di- 
ameter ring,  6-inch  traverse,  21.21 
twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 


8,800    revolutions    per    minute.      This 
yarn  is  conditioned. 

Some  of  the   white  cloths,   such  as 
ducks,  pique,  etc.,  which  in  most  sea- 
sons are  always  white,  may  be  dyed  to 
follow  a  freak  of  fashion. 
CREAM. 

For  100  pounds  goods,  two  ounces 
immedial  yellow  D. ;  2  ounces  imme- 
dial  cutch  B. ;  1  pound  sulphite  sodi- 
um; 20  pounds  salt;  14  pound  soda 
ash. 

MAUVE. 

Two   ounces   diamine  violet   N.;    If 
pounds   Glauber's;    1   pound   sal   soda. 
ECRU. 

One-half  pound  immedial  cutch  G.; 
4  ounces  immedial  yellow  D. ;  2  pounds 
sulphide  sodium;  10  pounds  salt;  1 
pound  soda  ash. 

SKY   BLUE. 

One    pound   immedial   indone   B.;    2 
pounds    sulphide     sodium;     2     pounds 
soda  ash;   10  pounds  salt. 
LIGHT    SLATE. 

One  and  one-half  pounds  immedial 
black  NRT. ;  3  pounds  sulphide  sodi- 
um; 20  pounds  salt;  2  pounds  soda 
ash. 


PIQUE 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  pique  vary  according 
to  the  quality  wanted.  A  good  quality 
and  average  grade  of  pique  may  be 
made  from  30s  yarns  of  IJ-inch  peel- 
er cotton  (carded).  After  being  put 
through  a  bale  breaker  the  cotton  ip 
put  through  three  processes  of  pickers, 
the  speed  of  the  beater  at  each  process 
being  as  follows:  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  (two-bladed  beater)  for  the 
breaker  picker,  1,400  for  the  interme- 
diate picker  (two  blades),  and  1,375  to 
1,450  for  the  finisher  picker,  according 
to  the  grade  of  cotton  used.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  finished  lap  should  be 
35.  pounds  or  a  12V^-ounce  lap.  At  the 
card  the  draft  should  not  be  less  than 
100  or  more  than  110.  The  flats  (110) 
make  one  revolution  every  37  minutes. 
Strip  three  times  a  day.  The  weight 
of  sliver  should  be  60  grains  per  yard; 


736 


INDEX 


production,  750  pounds  for  a  week  of 
60   hours. 

The  card  sliver  should  be  put 
through  three  processes  of  draw- 
ing frames.  These  should  be 
equipped  with  leather-covered  top 
rolls,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  of  the 
finisher  drawing  being  350  to  400  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  according  to  pro- 
duction required.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  from  this  frame  should  be  75 
grains  per  yard. 

The  sliver  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .50  hank  roving. 
For  9s  filling  yarn  the  slubber  roving 
is  put  through  one  process  of  fly 
frames  and  is  made  into  2  hank  rov- 
ing. If  a  large  quantity  of  pique  is  be 
ing  made  the  yarn  for  9s  may  be  made 
of  a  much  lower  grade  and  staple  of 
cotton,  but  otherwise  it  is  better  to 
construct  the  yarn  by  the  method 
given. 


The  slubber  roving  for  30s  yarn  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  at  the  first  intermediate  be- 
ing made  into  2  hank  and  at  the  sec- 
ond being  made  into  7.50  hank.  This 
roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning  room 
and  spun  into  30s  on  a  warp  frame 
having  a  diameter  of  ring  1%  inches, 
length  of  traverse  6i/^  inches,  twist  per 
inch,  26.02  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,- 
800  revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn 
is  then  spooled  and  warped,  after 
which  it  is  run  through  the  slasher. 

The  No.  9s  yarn  is  made  on  a  filling 
spinning  frame  with  a  If -inch  diame- 
ter ring,  7-inch  traverse,  9.75  twist  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  6,200  revolutions 
per  minute. 

The  30s  yarn  is  made  on  a  frame 
with  a  li-inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch 
traverse,  19.17  twist  per  inch  and  a 
spindle  speed  of  8,300  revolutions  per 
minute. 


INDEX 


Albatross    Cloth    522 

An    Idea    of   Value    163 

Artificial   Silk   Novelty  Dress   Goods... 173 

Artificial    Silk    Stripe    Overdress    280 

Artificial    Silk   Stripe   Voile    220 

Back-C:oth    730 

Baline     717 

Barathea    684 

Batiste    479 

Bayadere    453 

Bayadere  Made  Entirely  of  Mercerized 

Cotton   464 

Bedford    Cord    511 

Bedford    Cord,    Imitation   Jacquard 158 

Bedford   Cord,    Striped 327 

Bedspreads^Crochet  Quilts   .......571 

Bedspreads — Marseilles    Quilts    575 

Bedspreads— Satin   Quilts    580 

Beige 656 

Kengaline     63 

Bengal   Stripes    701 

Biaz  or  Linen  Finish  Suiting   649 

Bishop's   Lawn    695 

Book    Muslin    634 

Boucle     457 

Bourrette     426 

Box  Loom  Dotted  Swiss  216 

JBnighton  Cloth   ........................  .719 


Brilliante     631 

BriKiantine 498 

Brocade,    S.Ik    307 

Brocatelle    528 

Buckram    561 

Buyers'    Cost  Key    100 

Calico .502 

Cambric    544 

Canton    Flannel    .395 

Canvas    728 

Cashmere   Twi:i 462 

Chambray    39S 

Check   Flaxon -,.  .239 

Cheesecloth .487 

Cheviot  Shirting ....,..,.412 

Chintz    ;..515 

Cloth  Costs    ■ .110 

Coburg  Suiting .650 

Combed  Tarn  Goods — Cotton  Linings.. 459 

Corduroy    •  • .  -385 

Cost   Key,    Buyers' 1.00 

Cost  of  Cloth  Containing  Fast  Colors,. 114 

Cottonade    372 

Cotton  Bengaline   63 

Cotton    Cassimere    588 

Cotton  Cloth  Cost  Finding 105 

Cotton   Drapery 297 

Cotton  Linings   ....; ..,409 


INDEX 


737 


Cotton    Marquisette    36 

Cotton-Mohair  Fabrics    662 

Cotton    Surf   Serge    273 

Cotton    Voiles     6 

Cotton   Worsted,    Men's   Wear    375 

Coutil  or  Corset  Cloth    28 

Crash  : 346 

Crash,  Hammock   340 

Crepe  de  Chine   32 

Crepe   Fabrics   22 

Crepe    Rating    Novelty    115 

Crepe,  Special  Weave    137 

Crepe,    Striped    88 

Crepe  Weave  Fabric    58 

Crepons     688 

Cretonne    440 

Crinkle  Cloth,   or  Seersucker   369 

Crinoline    355 

Crochet    Quilts     371 

Damask    Fabrics    157 

Denim    424 

Dhooties  610 

Diagonal  Weave  Terry  Cloth   312 

Diaper   Cloth    715 

Dimity     889 

Dimity,    Imitation    621 

Domet  or  Outing  Cloth   348 

Dotted    Swiss,    Box    loom    216 

Dotted  Swiss   Swivel    179 

Drill    418 

Duck    398 

Eolienne    709 

Eolienne,    Siik   Warp    209 

Eponge,  JacQuard    322 

Eponge,    Novelty   Cotton    217 

Eponge,    Plain   Warp    292 

Eponge,    Silk   Mixture    252 

Etamine      476 

Fabric  Analysis    106 

"Fancy  Ail-Over  Leno  269 

Fancy    Cloth    Costs    112,  113 

Fancy   Leno  Stripe    205 

Fancy  Pile  Fabrics   95 

Fancy    Shirting     429 

Fast  Color,  Mercerized  Jacquard  Shirt- 
ing      288 

Fast  Color,    Soiesette   Shirting    212 

Figured   Silk,    Leno   Waisting   379 

Filling   Reversibles    607 

Fine  Yarn  Stripe    224 

Flannel,   Cantou    395 

Flannelette    421 


Flannelette   Novelty    287 

Galatea     720 

Gauze,    Mock   l^eno   602 

Gingham    (Common)    343 

Gingham    (Madras)     471 

Ginghams    734 

Gingham    (Zephyr)    351 

Gloria   Silk  and   Glor.a   Cloth    726 

Grenadine      627 

Hammock  Cloth   363 

Hammock    Crash    340 

Handkerchiefs   712 

Henrietta   Cloth    541 

Herringbone    Stripes    665 

Hickory    Stripes    402 

Honeycomb   C:oth    718 

Huckaback   Towels    599 

Imitation   Gauze,    Mnol<    T^eiio    602 

Im.itation   Jacquard,    P>edf<ird    Cord 15S 

Indian  Dimity    623 

Indigo    Prints     564 

Italian    Cloth    483 

Items    of   Yarn    Cost    108 

Jacquard  Ei)onge   322 

Jacquard    Filling.    Rpvei-sib:e    1S9 

Jacquard   Shirtings    227 

Jacquard,   Silk   Warp   Koliinne    209 

Jacquard   Waisting    266 

Jean    43S 

Kid  Finish  Cambric    653 

Lamp   Wicking    706 

T^appet  Dotted  Swiss   40 

Lawn    447 

Lawn,    P.ishop    595 

Lawn,    Victoria    646 

Leno,  Allover  269 

Leno  Clipped    ."^pot   Dress   Goods    199 

Leno  Cotton  Fabrics    567 

Leno,    Fancy   Stripe    205 

Leno,    Waisting    379 

Linen    Finish    SuitinKS    649 

Linon     639 

Long  Cloth    559 

Loop,  or  Kno  Cl<<th    686 

Madras    342 

Madras  Gingham    471 

Marquisette     801 

Marseilles   Quilts    575 

Men's  Wear,   Cotton   Worsted    375 


738 


INDEX 


Mercerized    Cord    78 

Mercerized   Drapery  Novelty    120 

Mercerized    Etamine    194 

Mercerized   Poplin   45 

Mercerized  Russian  Cord  Shirting 259 

Mercerized    Seersucker    Stripe    263 

Mercerized    Vesting-    433 

Mercerized   Waistings    11 

Method  of  Finding  Cost,  Illustrated 113 

Method    of   Using  Yarn    Key 110 

Mill  Profits    113 

Mixture    Moire    69 

Mock    Leno   Gauze    602 

Mock    Leno   Weave    Crepe    125 

■•Mock-Twist"    Suiting    49 

Moire   69 

Mull    637 

Muslin,   Book    634 

Muslin,   Butcher's  Muslin   539 

Muslin,  Foundation  Muslin   675 

Nainsook    550 

Nankeen,   or  Nankin    673 

New  Silk  and   Cotton   Fabrics    83 

Novelty    Cotton    Eponge    217 

Novelty  Dress  Goods   415 

Novelty  Yarn,   Striped  Crepe   88 

Ondule  Fabrics    592 

Organdie  (Plain  and  Figured) ; 519 

Orleans    Linings     678 

Osnaburg    406 

Percale    506 

Percaline    509 

Pile  Fabric,   Fancy    95 

Pique   467 

"Pique"    or   "Marseilles" 336 

Plain  and   Plaided    Nainsook    550 

P:ain  Cloth   Cost    Ill 

Plain  Warp,   Cotton  Eponge    292 

Poplin    659 

Printed   Silkaline    53 

Quilts,   Crochet    571 

t-^uilts,    Marseilles    575 

Quilts,    Satin    580 

Raincloth    5S5 

Ramie-Linen    17 

Ratine,    Crepe    115 

Ratine,    Leno    131 

Rice  Clot.1   142 

Robes     698 

Russian  Cord  Voile    248 

Satin    Checks    671 

Satine  or  Sateen    535 

Satin  Quilts    : 580 

Scrim   339 

Seersucker,  or  Crinkle  Cloth    369 

Shade   Cloth    693 

S'hadow  Checks   682 

Sheeting     409 

.-snirting.   Fancy    429 


Shirting,    Jacquard    227 

Shirting,    Mercerized    283 

Snirting,    S:lk    255 

Shirting,    Soisette    212 

Silence    Cloth,    Filling   Backed    676 

Silesia    443 

Silk    (Leno)    Waisting,    Figured    379 

Silk   Mixture,    Brocade    307 

Silk  Mixture,   Cross-Dyed   Novelty 242 

Silk   Mixture,   Eponge   252 

Silk   Mixture,   Fast   Color   Novelties. ..  .234 

Silk   Mixture,   Fast   Color   Shirting 255 

Silk  Mixture,   Leno  Scarfing    230 

Silk   Mixture,    Marquisette    301 

Silk  Mixture,  Wave  Crepe   276 

Silk  Novelty  Dress  Goods,   Artificial. .  .173 

Silk    Stripe    Voile,    Artificial    280 

Slub  Yarn  Novelty   73 

Special  Weave  Crepe  137 

Spot  and   Stripes    552 

Stop  Peg  Checks   617 

Striped    Bedford    Cord     327 

SLriped   Crepe    88 

Striped    Tissue    168 

Stripes,   Herringbone   665 

Stripes,    Hickory    Stripes    402 

Suspender  Webbing   620 

Swiss  Applique  (Printed)   331 

Swivel   Dotted   Swiss    179 

Taffeta  Silk  I.,ining,   or   Taffetine 641 

Tape 431 

Tarlatan     525 

Tartan   Plaids    450 

Tartans     558 

Terrv  Cloth,   Diagonal  "Weave 312 

Terry   Cloth,   or  Turkish   Towehng 367 

Terrv   Pile   Fabrics    532 

Ticking    403 

Tire  Fabrics   547 

Tobacco  Cloths   185 

Towels,   Huckaback    599 

Tucks     338 

Turkey   Red ...  .704 

Tussah   Broche    147 

Umbrella    Cloths    597 

Unequally    Reedeil    Stripes    614 

Union    Linen    Lawns    669 

Unique   Leno   Ratine    131 

Velour   723 

Velveteen     490 

Velveteen    Cutting    494 

Victoria    Lawn    646 

Voile,  Russian  Cord    248 

Voile,  Silk  Stripe   280 

Woven  Seersucker   Stripe    153 

Yarn  Costs 108 

Yarn    Costs    for    Combed    and    Carded 
Yarns 110 

Zephyr   Gingham    351 


THE 
PERFECT 
WEAVING 

REED 


Resists  all  WEAVING  strain.  Will  not  wear  the  shuttle  or  cut  the  yarn,  because  we 
polish  the  wire  by  a  new  method.  That's  the  Reed  we  make.  We  make  the  best 
Cotton  Reed  on  the  market.  Our  Specialty  in  Iteeds  for  Weaving  Cotton  Fancien 
and  Novelties. 

Write  for   particulars  and   testimonials  of  those   who   are  using   them  successfully 
in   their   mills. 

M.     E.     SCHMIDT     &     CO. 


Jlanufacturers  of  Loom  Keeds  and  Slasher  Combs. 


116    Front    Street 


NEAV    BEDFORD,    3IASS. 


Waldron  H.  Rand  &  Co. 

Certified  Public  Accountants 


101   Milk   Street 


BOSTON 


MODEL    A     R     CLOTH 
TRADEMARKING    MACHINE 


Cloth  Finishing 
IVIachinery 

Nap  Gig  Perch 

Wind     Double      Inspect 

Measure  Pumice  Spotproof 
Yardnumber   Trademark 

Shear  Steam  Brush  Weigh 
Roll        Polish        Stretch 

Luster  Decatize  Sand 


PARKS    &     WOOLSON     MACHINE     CO 

Springfield      Vermont     USA 


